Lakad Pilipinas

TAGUIG CITY | A Day at the Mind Museum

2013-05-22T20:42:00.001+08:00

I’ve been restlessly waiting for an invite to visit BGC’s Mind Museum ever since it opened a few years ago. I mean, a real world-class science museum right here in the metro! Any geek worth his salt would’ve probably camped outside its doors on opening day. Unfortunately, traveling extensively has its price; I’m always broke. So there goes my ticket to the museum.

I almost jumped with joy then when an invite finally came my way a few weeks ago to cover the museum’s monthly MindBurst series. This month, they’re celebrating the International Day for Biodiversity and features the theme "Awesome Kinds of Life". It would’ve been a blast if it was a feature on the science of Star Wars but I’m really not complaining. At least I’ll finally get to visit the Mind Museum!

The first thing one notices about the Mind Museum is its very distinctive brand of architecture. While most structure around the BGC area soars towards the sky, the museum hugs the ground with its sleek, almost organic design. Famed architect, Ed Calma, made sure its form follows its function; he based it on cellular growth and structures. Err… It can’t be more scientific that that, right? Even I don’t understand what that is.

The museum is divided into five main galleries as signified by their logo; the Atom, Earth, Life, Universe, and Technology Galleries. I like how futuristic the interior of the Mind Museum is. Even their cafeteria looks like a science classroom with its plasma ball and all.

We were itching to explore all the galleries but we first decided to attend the MindBurst presentation. They have a special exhibit that day called Exploring Ecozones; about floras and faunas throughout the various regions of the world. Uh huh.

To be honest, it wasn’t my cup of tea, but what really caught my attention was the Wild Conversations talk. Isa Garchitorena, an animal behavior specialist was jovially talking about all things wild and was shuffling out cute animals on stage to the appreciative ooohs and aaahs of the kids watching. She’s pretty good at explaining and answering questions from the crowd that I was glued throughout the presentation.

The MindBurst activity lasted half the day and featured other special talks and exhibits like Maps of Life, Why Should We Care about Biodiversity and The Secret World of Ants. I was actually surprised to see Mikey Bustos of Chicharon ni Mang Juan fame discussing the joys of creating an ant farm. Coolness!

In between presentations, we checked out Mind Museum’s permanent galleries. First was the Atom Gallery where we explored the unseen world of atoms and molecules. Geek stuff right? I hated chemistry when I was in high school but this looks like fun!

My favorite part of the gallery was the part where you touch a metal ball and your hair would stand on end! We let C of Blissfulguro take the seat on this one since she has the longest hair. We all started cracking up once static coursed through her body and onto her hair haha.

A giant brain swallowed us inside the Life Gallery. It sorta reminded me of the latest Iron Man movie where a hologram of the nemesis’ brain pulsed inside Penny’s room. But this is no hologram; this is a mega larger than life presentation of a human brain.

They also have a life-sized butanding (whale shark) on display which is reputedly the largest fish in water (sperm whales are not fishes by the way, so they’re out of the running). I haven’t seen one of these in real life and I assume it would be an awesome experience to swim with these giants.

Before proceeding to the Earth Gallery, we watched a 3D movie made by local film maker Chito Roño as to how the land mass and the flora and fauna of the Philippines came about. It was okay, nothing to really rave about, but still interesting and informative enough especially for the kids.

But the real bad boy of the Earth Gallery is the permanently snarling gigantic T-Rex in its midst. Unfortunately these are not made from authentic dinosaur bones but it is molded from a real one, good enough for me at least. There are real dino bones at the base of the exhibit though, and you can actually touch them too! Cool, right?

The nice thing about the Mind Museum is that all the galleries are interconnected by a tunnel so you won’t get lost inside. You’ll just have to follow a certain path and you’d see everything without doubling back. The tunnel to the Universe Gallery is the craziest of these where a rotating textile of stars and universe swirls around a metal bridge. It can get a bit heady, good thing there are handle bars just in case you get dizzy.

I’m ashamed to say that I haven’t been to a proper planetarium before. I was so elated that we got to watch a planetarium show inside the Universe Gallery! I also saw a controllable Martian Rover inside the gallery too; unfortunately a kid was hogging the thing all to himself so I wasn’t able to drive it. :P

And last but not the least is the Technology Gallery which is located on the whole second floor of the museum. It features inventions throughout time, from J. Gutenberg’s archaic printing machine to videogames. But the thing I liked the best was the x-ray machine where I got to x-ray my cameras! Something I’d been wanting to do on airports every time but was not allowed to. :D

There were still areas we were unable to explore, like the Botanical Garden and the outdoor Science-in-the-Park, but we were simply too tired to check them out. Well, it’s actually an incentive to go back to the Mind Museum, which is something I really wouldn’t mind doing; the Mind Museum is a total geek heaven!

The Mind Museum
Address: J. Y. Campos Park, 3rd Ave, Taguig City
Contact Number: (02) 909-6463
Rates: Php600.00 Adults | Php450.00 Children & Student
Php150.00 Public School Students and Teachers
Open Hours: Everyday except Mondays 9AM-6PM

GPS Coordinates: 14.551892,121.045496
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Trip Itinerary and Summary

2013-05-21T19:38:00.001+08:00

If you’re gonna ask me what I would remember the most during my three-day jaunt in Japan, it would probably be the rain. It poured days and nights the whole time we were in the so-called Land of the Rising Sun. But it was not a deterrent for exploration. Drenched and soggy, we still braved the streets of Tokyo and Kanagawa as much as time would allow.

Japan used to be an unreachable dream that I thought would totally remain as a such. I’m totally indebted to Sony Philippines for picking me to follow Sony Alpha’s new camera ambassadors; Pilar Tuason, Manny Librodo and Pepe Diokno to Japan.

I’ve been using a Sony NEX5n camera since winning it from the KLM-DPP On Assignment: Europe a few years back and the Sony A77 and other lenses (I so love the E 10-18mm!)provided by Sony for this trip perfectly complimented it.

Subarashii Japan!

P O S T C A R D S
Impossible Japan

D A Y O N E | T O K Y O

   Manila – Japan
   Of Geishas and Kaisekis
   The Old and the New at Toranomon’s Konpira Shrine
   Almost Paris at the Tokyo Tower

   D A Y T W O | T O K Y O & K A N A G A W A

   Rainy Morning to Atago Shrine
   Old Castles and Unending Rains
   Rushing Lunch at Yumoto Fujiya Hotel
   Reveries on Cemeteries
   Mists and Trails at Hakone’s Fujiya Hotel
   Secret Temples
   Braving Tokyo’s Underground
   Rainy Nights at Shibuya Crossing
   Two Nights at Tokyo’s Okura Hotel

   D A Y T H R E E | T O K Y O

   Buying Memories at Asakusa’s Nakamise Street
   The Oldest Buddhist Temple in Japan
   Mementos and Souvenirs

JAPAN | Mementos and Souvenirs

2013-05-20T22:00:00.001+08:00

My three-day Japan trip wouldn’t be complete without bringing home something to remind me of my journey after time passes. I know not a few people who think that buying souvenirs is kinda kitschy, superficial and touristy, but I really don’t mind, whatever floats your boat as they say.

The perfect place to buy souvenirs in Tokyo is at Asakusa’s Nakamise Street. They have almost everything, if not really everything every keychain loving tourists love. Besides the almost one hundred shops lining its main avenue, there are other side streets I wasn’t able to explore where more touristy junks can be purchased. One of the nicest things I got here were a pair wooden Japanese dolls. It was expensive at ¥1,000.00 but they looked really cute and very Japanese.

An old friend was asking me to buy her a Katana sword ever since she got news that I was going to Japan. But a sword of that kind costs an arm and a leg! I couldn’t afford a ¥30,000.00++ sword so I got her the next best thing after it. A mini Katana; it was a fraction of the price and looked really cool. It almost got confiscated in the airport though; I didn’t know it has a real blade inside!

I was also tipped that G-Shock watches were really really cheap in Japan, like half the price cheap from the prices in our malls. And the best place to get them were at the Don Quijote (Donki to the locals) shops that dot most major cities in the country. The models in the shop in Shibuya were quite limited though, luckily I found an exact match of the one that A wanted. I was unable to get myself a G-Shock, unfortunately, as the ones for the guys were still a bit expensive.

And then there are the ref magnets! I love how fine and detailed the magnets are in Japan. I also like the fact that they’re not made of plastic or metal. I got myself a few for my own fridge and some more for my aunts back home. There were also a lot of keychains being sold at Nakamise Street but I’m not a keychain person. It’s interesting to note that the prices of these souvenirs are exactly the same with those being sold at the airport.

I’ve been craving for a green tea KitKat ever since receiving one a few months ago as a pasalubong. I didn’t know these come in different flavors, being used to the normal red ones being sold at convenience stores in Manila. There are more than 200 varieties; from the mild sakura macha to the totally weird wasabi and soy sauce-flavored ones. We’ve been on the lookout for these ever since arriving in Japan but to no avail. Luckily, a few stores inside Narita Airport have them, no wasabi flavor though.

But the best souvenirs I got from Japan were those that didn’t cost me a single yen. The colorful and finely folded crane and turtle origami given by the Hotel Okura were really beautiful. I decided to permanently tuck them inside the pages of my yellowing travel journal.

Being a Scrooge left me with quite a chunk of yens left in my wallet after my three-day jaunt in Japan. I exchanged most of these to peso as soon as I got back home but decided to leave a few as a souvenir. Since most money changers don’t accept anything lower than ¥50.00 coins, I now have a chunky coin purse filled with ¥10.00 coins. It’s burstingly full I can even spare a few, want some? :D

JAPAN | The Oldest Buddhist Temple in Japan

2013-05-17T04:04:00.001+08:00

The rain lashed and tried to tear away the umbrella from my hands as I approached the massive Hozomon Gate that precedes the Sensoji Temple. I was on a buying spree for souvenirs to bring back home at Asakusa’s Nakamise Street when I chanced upon its red gates. I still have a few hours left before my plane leaves for Manila and it’s only with good fortune that my last destination before leaving Japan would be Tokyo’s largest Buddhist Temple and not to mention, the country’s oldest.

Crowds, both local and foreign flock the temple in droves. I spent a minute under the eaves of its gargantuan gate before proceeding further. The rain was really whipping it. I took the opportunity to admire the massive paper lantern hanging from the beams of the Hozomon Gate; painted in red with huge Japanese characters decorating its sides, they said it represents lightning and thunderclouds.

Sensoji Temple was built in 628 AD and finished 17 years later. It suffered massive destruction from the air raid bombings of the Second World War and was reconstructed thirteen years after the devastation. The shrine is dedicated to the Bodhisattva Kannon, Goddess of Mercy.

A five-tiered pagoda stands proud on the left side of the temple, the Gojunoto. At 53 meters high, it is the highest of its kind in Tokyo. Although it is originally dedicated for comedians (please don’t ask me why haha), it is said that it houses ashes from none other than Buddha himself.

Running to the dry comfort of the outlying buildings surrounding the Kannon Hall, a sort of courtyard between the Hozomon Gate and the Sensoji main temple, I witnessed tourists and the faithful purchasing omikujis, a fortune inscribed on a little piece of paper. One can either get good or bad luck from these though. But worry not, if by chance you get a not so good fortune, just tie the paper on a string for the wind to blow your misfortune away.

Off the center of the square, a big metal cauldron billowing with white smoke was attracting people like magnet. Holding my umbrella on my left and my camera on my right, I took a closer look to see what the fuss was about. Young and old alike were fanning incense smoke to themselves; for purification, good health and healing of ailments they said.

Further on, I saw what looked like a bronze sculpture of a warrior with dragons positioned beneath his feet, a Chozuya. Water was sprouting from its mouth to a basin surrounding the statue. It’s a custom for the Japanese to wash their left hand, then their right, their mouth and finally the water laddle’s handle for purification before going inside a temple.

Jostling with the throngs of tourists, I finally made it inside the massive Sensoji Temple. Intricate glowing lanterns hanging off the sides of immense red pillars light its dim interiors, illuminating the exquisite handiwork of Japanese craftsmen that built the shrine.

I forgot about the din of the crowd and helplessly gaped at the great and painstaking details of the temple. Sensoji is overwhelmingly beautiful.

Coins were thrown down a pit fronting the golden statue of the Goddess Kannon before hands were clasped and heads were bowed. The faithful are saying their prayers and wishes to the six centimeter pocket-sized golden goddess housed inside the shining shrine. This is the original image that two fishermen found on the Sumida River that started everything in 628 AD.

The rain only intensified as I got out of the Sensoji Temple. Tourists and pilgrims still kept on pouring though, oblivious to the downpour. I checked my watch, it was almost time to go back to Hotel Okura and gather up my things. I’m about to leave Japan but I was glad that chance gave me a very memorable and significant destination before heading back home to Manila.

Sensoji Temple
Address: 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito, Tokyo, Japan
Contact Number: 03-3842-0181
Open Hours: Daily 6:00AM - 5:00PM
Website: Click Here

GPS Coordinates: 35.714750,139.796761
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Buying Memories at Asakusa’s Nakamise Street

2013-05-14T16:20:00.001+08:00

I watched from the comfort of Hotel Okura’s breakfast nook as a transparent umbrella whipped off a salaryman’s hand on his way to work outside the streets of Tokyo. The rain had worsened on our third and last day in Japan. It wasn’t a good way to start the morning at all.
My original plan was to check the nearby Imperial Palace by foot. I’d like to savor Tokyo on my own slow terms. I wanted to see its side streets, its small stores and its ordinary life unfold by walking through its thoroughfares. But it looks like I’d have to come up with a quick plan B.

Then I remembered Asakusa. On our first day in Japan, we passed by a town with small Japanese shops lining its roads. I also recalled a giant torii gate as we hailed a cab en route to meet Sakura Jaya’s geishas over dinner. I loved the feel of the area, like old-school Japan intertwined with its modern counterparts. I thought that it might not be a bad idea to go back there to see more.

Wasting no time, I quickly changed camera. With the onslaught of rain, I felt it would be better if I simply bring one small camera with me. I ditched the weather-sealed Sony A77 and holstered my NEX-5n along with an ultra wide angle lens, it’s not rainproof but it’s tiny and it is wide. I like wide shots.

Taking the Tokyo Subway, I eventually reached Asakusa and promptly forgot where the specific area was. My GPS wasn’t working so I tried to ask for directions with some locals. Through hand signals and some walking through the rain, I finally managed to locate it.

The Kaminari Gate doesn’t look as impressive in daylight as it was a few nights ago, but the stores past it were! I’m an ordinary guy and I enjoy buying souvenirs and what-nots to bring back home like the next tourist. I like ref magnets, I like key chains and I’m not ashamed to say so; to heck with them so-called travelers.

Nakamise Street is an omiyage (souvenir) heaven! They’ve got everything here from real and fake Katana swords, wood block prints, Japanese robot toys, Doraemon, Astroboys, bags, shirts, kimonos and yes, beautifully made key chains and ref magnets by the heaps. It was so tempting to bring home a sword if not for the ¥36,000.00 price tag. Expensive stuff and I’m not even sure if it’s allowed in the airport.

Beside souvenirs, there were also a lot of Japanese foodstuffs being sold in the area. Sushis, candies, rice cakes, kibi-balls manjus, chocolates and other curious things I’m not familiar with. These are the processed ones already packed in cans and plastics, but a fresher alternative can also be brought from the other stores.

Vendors constantly calling out to passing tourists for a taste of their local goodies seemed the norm here. Again, I’m not really sure what they’re selling but unfortunately I really have no time (nor the spare cash) to have a taste.

So I made do with the next best thing, take photographs. It’s quick and it’s free to boot! I like how everyone seemed game to have their pictures taken. I encountered not one rude vendor here, everyone’s just so friendly and polite. I love the people of Japan!

There were also a lot of unique and very Japanese things being sold in the area; wooden toys especially. Although most of these come in premium prices, you can be assured that they’re authentically local. I closed my eyes, took out my wallet and bought a few to bring home.

The Nakamise Shopping Street has been around since the early 18th century when locals surrounding the nearby temple set up shops for people en route to the shrine. It stretches for around a quarter of a kilometer from the Kaminari Gate. There are three lanes and each one’s literally packed with shops, the area has a total of almost a hundred stores. And the alleys, even if it was raining, were also jammed with tourists and shoppers.

As I neared the last shop on the center lane, I noticed a tall and graceful pagoda from one of the toy stores I was busy rummaging in. I remembered one of my companions telling me there was a huge temple near the shops but I totally forgot about it; I didn’t even know it was located here.

After carefully wrapping my precious purchases; I opened my umbrella, set myself to get soaked in the rain again and started towards the massive Sensoji Temple.

Nakamise Shopping Street
Address: 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan
Contact Number: 03-3842-0181
Open Hours: Open Everyday

GPS Coordinates: 35.711143,139.796369
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Two Nights at Tokyo’s Okura Hotel

2013-05-12T00:28:00.001+08:00

One of the things I really like about being sponsored on a trip is that I get to stay at really posh hotels. It’s something I usually don’t have the luxury for when traveling on my own since they cost as much, or probably more, than my whole trip expenses combined.

Sony Philippines was generous enough to host us at one of the nicest hotel around Tokyo, the five-star Okura Hotel in the city’s Minato ward. The area is pretty quiet for my taste, being surrounded mostly by office buildings and foreign embassies (49 embassies to be exact). Good thing it’s just a hop away from various train terminals so getting around through subways isn’t a problem at all.

It’s also a bonus that some of Tokyo’s iconic landmarks is just a stone throw’s away from the place. The Tokyo Tower is around ten minutes by foot; the Japanese Imperial Palace and Shibuya Crossing also looked accessible by foot (if you like walking as much as I like to that is, haha).

From the outside, Okura Hotel doesn’t look that interesting at all; its architecture seemed dated and forgettable. But the story changes once you step inside. Its lobby is one of the nicest I’ve seen; its elegance might be understated, but its there. And the service; bar none, they have the most helpful, polite and not to mention cutest, staff around.

The hotel has three wings and it felt like Tokyo’s microcosm. I was almost constantly lost inside its halls, looking for the proper exits when taking a walk outside, and the elevators when accessing my room. It’s so big it has its own mini-mall inside.

Please pardon my slacked jaw, I’m really not used to staying at such opulent places, being mostly familiar to hostels and backpacker inns when out traveling.

And my room was to die for! I love Sony for providing each one of us with a private room. I was originally expecting to have a capsule room, like what I saw from An Idiot Abroad’s Japanese episode (not that it would be bad, I actually liked to experience sleeping in one, truth to say), but this one really takes the cake. A have a whole freakin’ ¥27,000.00 room that’s good enough for two only for myself while in Tokyo!

There were all sorts of beer and alcoholic drinks on the mini-bar but they were unfortunately not part of the package. I have to shell out my precious yens for such. Luckily my fellow Japan Sony winner, L, was willing to share his alcohol with me. :)

I also love the turtle and crane origami items made from colorfully printed papers that the hotel gives out to guests. It’s a very personal and very Japanese touch that geeks like me appreciate. In fact, I liked it so much that I brought it home with me as a memento.

But the best part of Hotel Okura is surprisingly their toilet. Seriously! A fully automatic, push-your-preferred-button toilet rocks! The only thing missing really are the pre-heated toilet seat and the water flushing sound effect that are present on the more updated versions of these. I just have to say that a hotel experience doesn’t get more Japanese than this.

Okura Hotel Tokyo
Address: 2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-0001, Japan
Contact Number: +81-3-3582-0111
Website: Click Here

GPS Coordinates: 35.666955,139.74427
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Rainy Nights at Shibuya Crossing

2013-05-10T01:56:00.001+08:00

The freezing night air blasted through the open gates of Shibuya Station. The weather had been sour through our whole day jaunt at Hakone and it remained the same when we returned to Tokyo. The rest of the guys wanted nothing but a bowl of ramen and the comfort of their soft hotel bed afterwards, but I was thinking of other things.

My mind is flashing images of multi-colored skyscrapers, swarms of chic Japanese citizens walking across a vast crossing and Blade Runner-esque neon Japanese billboards. I’m thinking of Tokyo’s famous Shibuya Crossing.

Finding myself a buddy, we fumbled our way through Tokyo’s confusing subway system and found the famous crossing through guesswork. I was supposed to meet a friend in the area, someone who can at least guide us, but the torrential rain made her back out. We were on our own.

The first thing that greeted us upon arriving at Shibuya was the sculpture of the equally famous Japanese dog, Hachiko. I haven’t really seen the movie yet, but they said that this was where the faithful dog has supposedly waited for his departed master until his own demise.

It felt giddy the first time the traffic lights turned green and we walked with the multitudes of clear umbrella-toting Japanese. Finally I’m seeing The Japan that I have in my mind. This is it! This is Japan! It can’t get more Japanese than this.

My mind flashed a scene from one of my favorite movies of all time, Lost In Translation, and how one of the character felt overwhelmed by Shibuya’s Crossing. I was having the same elated feeling but it also got me thinking where they set their camera for the overhead shot.

My eyes scanned the area and found a Starbucks Coffee on the second storey of one of the buildings directly over the crossing. Jackpot. We immediately headed over to the café and surprisingly found it to be not-so-packed. Must be the dismal weather and the lateness of the hour.

We didn’t order any coffee, afraid of wasting time. We only have an excess of two hours before the last train leaves Shibuya to our hotel. I normally have no problem walking, I even computed the time it would take me to reach our hotel by foot, but an hour under a single-degree temperature on a rainy night with wet, soggy socks does not spell fun for me.

Overhead shots done, we hunted for dinner. It has been hours since our last meal in Hakone and our stomach’s protests can no longer be ignored. Ramen was priority but we were having a hard time locating a not-so-expensive one with seats available. Plan B then; anything that looks delicious, is cheap and has free seats.

Roaming the glitzy side streets of Shibuya, stopping and taking photos as we went along, we eventually found our query. There were only a few diners in the restaurant and the fares look interesting enough. More importantly, their prices looked reasonable too.

Again, with guesswork, we ordered through the machine located near the diner’s door, punching our orders and slipping in our Yens through a coin slot in exchange for a food stub. Success! We entered and presented our coupon for dinner.

There were no English translations on their menu so we based our orders through pictures. It was rice topped with eggs and beef complimented by some sort of salad and a miso soup. Serving size was pretty huge and for ¥480.00, it wasn’t bad at all. In fact it was quite excellent!

With our tummies satiated, we headed back to the crossing. We planned to zigzag and cross the road with the Japanese people to our hearts delight. We’re touristy like that. Waiting in queue for the lights to turn green, I parted with my companion and let myself get lost with the crowd. Walking and stopping right in the middle of the road, soaking in Japan.

I wish though that I have a transparent umbrella with me. My mind was whizzing away the whole time why umbrellas like those are a hit in Japan. The revelation came as I started walking through Shibuya. I kept looking up to see all the neon lights and all I kept seeing was the top of my blue umbrella. Then it hit me why, and I had since been muttering to myself why I didn’t get one too.

Crossing a road is hardly any fun at all if you really think about it. Heck, I even know some people who dread it. But in Shibuya, when the lights turn green and the cars from all sides of the road stop. The most mundane thing in the world, crossing a street, becomes something special.

Forgetting that I’m wet, tired and cold; I braced myself for the nth time, the lights were about to turn green again. And like a kid playing in the rain, my heart started pumping as I walked towards the heart of Shibuya one more time.

Shibuya Crossing
Address: Near Shibuya Station, Hachiko Exit, Tokyo, Japan

GPS Coordinates: 35.65952,139.70051
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Braving Tokyo’s Underground

2013-05-09T02:08:00.001+08:00

Red, orange, blue and green lines intertwine like roiling snakes in a pit. It’s Tokyo’s underground rail system and not unlike deadly vipers, they’re scaring the heck out of me just by looking at them.

I really didn’t have a choice though; to get from one place to the next, it’s either the trains or the taxis. Both are expletively expensive, but the underground is considerably cheaper by miles. So the rails it is.

The first thing I noticed during my first incursion inside the Tokyo Subway was the almost zero absence of English translations for the signboards. There were a few, but they were sorely lacking for a tourist lost in Japan’s Hiragana and Kanjis. Asking around also proved futile as most Japanese don’t know how to speak in any other language beside their own.

The best person to ask for directions are the uniformed guards (err, I’m not really sure if they’re guards) manning the stations near the turnstiles. They can understand and speak basic English. But it’s infinitely better if you have a map; simply point your location and destination and wait for them to nod or shake their heads.

The next challenge is operating the ticket vending machine. On my way to Shibuya, it took centuries to figure out how to get my ticket. I looked at the list of places above the machines and their corresponding fares then it’s the machine’s turn. I pressed the screen and everything appeared in Japanese. I’m screwed.

By some miracle, I somehow figured out which buttons to press after minutes of paralyzing analysis. At last, my precious train ticket. I’m not sure though if I’m just too stupid or too excited to go exploring on my own that I didn’t notice that the screen can be translated into English with a single press of a button.

Tokyo has a total of thirteen lines from various train companies. Each one has its own tickets and stations. So if you plan to make connecting rides from one line to the next, you have to purchase a separate ticket or day pass from each line. I was able to try out the Tokyo-Metro Ginza Line which plies the Shibuya-Asakusa route quite a number of times during our stay in Japan.

Unlike in the Philippines where train fares are dirt cheap, a minimum ticket for a ride inside in the subways cost ¥160.00 and covers a maximum of seven stations. Go farther and the fare rises from ¥190.00 to ¥230.00. In hindsight, I think it wasn’t that bad considering how fast and efficient they were.

But not unlike in the Philippines, the trains also get crazy during the rush hour. I didn’t experience severe pushing and shoving but one of my companions got it pretty hard inside the train as the doors were about to close. Apparently, there are assigned individuals on train stations that pushes in passengers inside trains, it is their job and sworn duty to do just that. Crazy, right?

Despite the crowd, I was again taken aback by the discipline the Japanese people possess. The train was packed like sardines but the seats intended for the elderly and the disabled were amazingly empty. There was nobody guarding the seats yet everyone were disciplined enough not to take them for themselves.

One of the things that surprised me when taking the trains were that the coaches in Japan are not as glitzy and modern as I imagined them to be. They actually looked old and yellowing; our country’s MRT is honestly more modern than theirs. But I like how clean it is despite its age. And I love how the seats are actually softly cushioned, almost like a mini sofa, and not made of hard plastic.

The same thing also applies to their maze-like stations. Most of them, especially in lesser known areas, looked dated and cramped. But the stations in more cosmopolitan districts are a different story. Take the one in Shibuya; it’s as spacious as a grand hall, complete with gargantuan murals and sleek designs.

I wouldn’t have thought that I’d be able to manage commuting by train through Tokyo. I get dizzy and confused simply by looking at all those snaking lines representing the city’s massive underground network. But I did it (thanks partially to Jorudan, a real-time train guide through Tokyo), tourist that I am, and was actually comfortable enough with Tokyo’s trains come our third day in Japan to go wherever my feet fancies to be.

JAPAN | Secret Temples

2013-05-07T18:00:00.000+08:00

My feet led me to a dead end. I followed a trail at the back of Hakone’s famous Fujiya Hotel and it let me to a winding set of stone stairs that descended into nothingness. I looked around, trying to see my way out of this place, looking for shortcut, a hidden pathway; anything but to double back from the way I came. My eyes saw a silhouette of a structure against the bush on my right; brushed it aside and found a temple. A secret temple, unbeknownst to my fellow travelers.

Fujiya Hotel’s massive back garden had given me something special. Finding an old shrine right at the tail end of the garden trail was a total surprise. I’ve seen it’s graceful buildings, koi ponds, waterfalls, water mills and cherry trees but this is totally unexpected.

I’m pretty sure this is no longer part of the hotel, being divided by uneven rows of pines and thick bushes. But part of me wanted to make it part of the trip. I didn’t see any trespassing signs (or they may be in Japanese), so I moved forward, carefully slipping through the thicket and into the hallowed ground of an unknown Hakone temple.

Furtively, I walked through the shrine’s silent grounds. It seemed disrespectful to make any kind of noise here; a simple rustle or a crunch of a dried twig cracks as loud as a gun shot. The air was so still, the pines overhead were not even whispering. Mists floated overhead, blanketing everything in a somber atmosphere.

The temple is not very large but looks very graceful. Most of it is made of wood; its pillars, floors, railings, its geometric inner walls and complex ceilings. Intricate carvings of what seemed like dragons and strange creatures floating on wooden clouds decorate its gate. They’re hauntingly beautiful.

I spent some minutes enjoying the silence of the shrine. I didn’t even take as many photos as I usually do. It was enough that I found this place. It was enough that I was here. It was enough that it was there.

After some minutes, I finally turned my back and said farewell to my silent temple. I started down its stone stairs, passed through some fog-ridden alleys and found my way back to Japanese civilization. In Hakone, I found my secret place.

Unknown Hakone Temple
My GPS seemed to have mysteriously conked out
at this area. Forgive me for having zero information
about this site.

JAPAN | Mists and Trails at Hakone’s Fujiya Hotel

2013-05-06T14:08:00.001+08:00

Hellen Keller, Charlie Chaplin and John Lennon; what do they all have in common? They all stayed at Hakone’s Fujiya Hotel. And that said hotel was our last stop for our second day in Japan. Coolness!

I can see from the fog-ridden landscapes of the resort that this is no ordinary hotel. The architecture is different, still distinctly Japanese but with hints of western influences. It looked like a modernist take on the country’s traditional architecture, but somehow, you know that it’s all authentic.

Fujiya Hotel was built in 1891, it is that old, and it has seen its fair share of history. The hippie guru John Lennon and his equally eccentric wife Yoko Ono among other notable personalities have made this hotel their home for a few nights, it became a refuge during the Second World War and a Nazi Gestapo leader was even cornered here decades after the war.

We arrived at its gate at around noontime but the sun was nowhere to be found. They said one can view the majestic Mount Fuji from here but all we were able to see were a monochrome blanket of flat grey clouds. The pavement was wet from the rain and mists were slowly swirling around the bare branches of the Cherry trees surrounding the property.

The hotel is absolutely gorgeous. The walls are painted in earthly yellows accented by red balustrades. The windows were all very modern but the roofs were all gracefully Japanese; curving and soaring high above with its wide eaves and multiple dormers.

Lush landscapes surround the buildings. Trimmed hedges and equally wild trees stand side by side. Cherry blossoms shine in pinks, cheerfully blooming against the gray weather. Bare deciduous trees glisten, dews sparkling preciously from its thinnest branches.

Warmth enveloped us as we proceeded inside. A sculpture of a dog stands guard over the lobby; Hachiko perhaps? Well I’m not really sure. The place was packed with guests lounging about and enjoying their late lunch. The view from the second level is amazing; it’s just too bad that Mount Fuji is in hiding.

Numerous small waterfalls and koi ponds swimming with huge colorful fishes litter the back garden of the hotel. A maze of stone trails wound its way through numerous gardens. It was all very confusing so I let my feet choose where to tread.

A watermill stopped me on my tracks. I’ve read about it in books, I’ve seen it on the telly, but I haven’t seen something like it in person, ever. A real working waterwheel scooping buckets of water from a murky pond.

A rain of cherry blossoms fell and I continued my journey. I lost sight of my companions but I kept on. My feet slowly following a wet stone path. Trails lead to places and I wanted to see those places.

I was alone and I can see that the path my feet chose led to an old Japanese shed. A dead end? But perhaps not. I can see just a hint of stairs, narrow and made of stone, descending down. I was thinking of turning back, I felt alone in this strange place. But my feet seemed to have other plans. It strode forward and took steps towards the stairs.

A dead end. But my eyes caught something beyond the bushes. I brushed the thicket aside and found a lone and deserted temple.

Fujiya Hotel
Address: 359 Miyanoshita, Hakone-machi, Kanagawa-ken 250-0404, Japan
Contact Number: (81) 460-82-2211 | (81) 460-82-2210
Rates: Click Here
Website: Click Here

GPS Coordinates: 35.244222,139.058955
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Reveries on Cemeteries

2013-05-02T16:57:00.001+08:00

A large Buddha with a shockingly red bib stands guard near the entrance of the Shōgen-ji Temple in Hakone. Cherry blossoms, wet from the day’s constant rain litter the grounds like delicate pink snowflakes. I carefully wend my way through them, seemingly conscious of stepping into one and destroying something beautiful. I looked up and saw the gnarly branches of the Sakura tree framing the gray white sky. It’s still raining in Japan.

Stone steps led my soggy shoes up a hill filled with silent grave markers inscribed in Japanese. We were in a hillside cemetery and fog was creeping down from the trees. The silence seemed more solemn as it reached the narrow pathways. There were no tombs here similar to the ones I’m used to seeing back in the Philippines, only small upright grave stones. The Japanese cremate their dead.

Walking further, I met icons stained by time. Miniature stone Buddhas now habituated by soft moss, sitting cross-legged and eyes closed; oblivious to the world outside this quiet place. Distinctly Japanese sculptures litter the graves, pagoda-shaped stone lamps, wooden paddles burned with Kanji characters. And vased flowers; lots and lots of them. Love and remembrances offered to the dead from the living.

The wind whispered and more cherry blossoms fell. Slowly to ground they said their silent velvet prayers and breathed final breaths. I walked on. Climbing and descending through narrow stone stairs, the rain soaking me further every time the clock ticks it minute hands.

I passed one companion and she offered me an umbrella. I smiled, shook my head and said a small thank you. I never minded the rain. I love walking, and I love walking in the rain. It clears my head, cleanses my thoughts.

Cold and dripping, I walked up into the elevated dry wooden floor of the Shōgen-ji Temple. Its geometric lines and clean white walls in stark contrast to the verdant garden reflecting on its glass windows. Warmth.

From afar, I saw a woman. Clad in a purple kimono, playfully twirling her intricate sakura-laden umbrella. And finally reality jarred me from my reverie. For a moment there, I almost forgot that this was a photo trip. That we have a model with us. That this was all sponsored. That it was all commercial and impersonal.
But for a brief span of time, I felt Japan as it should be felt. Not as a tourist. Not as a traveler. Not as a photographer. But merely as an observer. A spectator with nothing to take and nothing to gain.

Shogen-ji Temple
Address: 5 6 2 Yumoto Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan
Contact Number: (81) 460-85-5638
Open Hours: 9:00AM - 4:00PM

GPS Coordinates: 35.228503,139.099984
View Locations on Google Maps: Click Here

PUBLISHED | Gala Magazine’s Anniversary Travel Feature

2013-05-01T13:10:00.001+08:00

Gala Magazine recently contacted me about doing a small feature for their anniversary issue. They probably saw my recent Zambales posts and went from there. I think they’re now tapping into the blogging industry as I also saw fellow travel bloggers M of Nomadic Experiences and C of Traveling Light on the contributor page.

I’ve been seeing this magazine around for a bit on billboards with prominent actors and actresses gracing its glossy cover, but I’ve really haven’t had a chance to take a peek on what’s inside. Heck, I didn’t even know how to pronounce Gala.

Well, according to them, Gala is a gateway to all things happenings. The term is interchangeable as an English noun as a festive event or a Filipino word as a wanderer. I prefer the latter.

I contributed a two-page article relating to the province of Zambales. Collating all my experiences all the way back from my college days when we did a kombi-run to the province where our van eventually broke down to my most recent trip to via the Zoobic Safari.

I love how they did the lay-out; big pictures yeah!

This is also the first time I contributed an article that includes a write-up. I usually just send in my photos but this time they let me write the words to go along with it.

Gala’s Anniversary Issue is still available at most bookstores for Php170.00. But if you don’t feel like going to the newsstands, I actually have a few spare copies left that I can raffle off if anyone’s interested. :)

POSTCARDS | Evening Windmills at Bangui

2013-04-25T09:00:00.000+08:00

I have witnessed Ilocos’ iconic windmills spinning during the golden hour before twilight. I have seen it twirl its white blades during a storm. And now, due to another day of postponed boat trip to Babuyan Islands and a miscalculation in time planning, I’ve now witnessed these giants spin their propellers against the evening stars. I was speechless, it was simply magical.

POSTCARDS | Northern Sunset

2013-04-24T00:14:00.001+08:00

It was impossible to resist the call to visit Babuyan Islands, one of the northernmost groups of islands in the Philippines. Some say it’s the most beautiful in country, but I have to see for myself. The trip entails riding a grueling fourteen-hour bus ride from Manila to Claveria in Cagayan then transfer to a five-hour boat ride to the islands.

The island transfer did not happen though; we got stuck at Claveria due to inclement weather conditions. For the meantime, we checked out what Claveria has to offer. We made do with what we have.

JAPAN | Rushing Lunch at Yumoto Fujiya Hotel

2013-04-20T23:09:00.001+08:00

I was able to breathe a sigh of relief as we stepped inside the warm lobby of Yumoto Fujiya Hotel in Hakone. My shoes and socks have been soggy with rain since early morning. From my quick jaunt to Tokyo’s Atago Shrine and the three-hour shoot at the nearby Odawara Castle; my toes were now practically freezing.

A sprawling wall mosaic of what seemed like colored capiz shells decorated the hotel’s foyer. Like true-blue tourists, we gawked at the gift shop before our guide politely dragged us inside Himeshara, Yomoto Fujima’s one of six restaurants.

Our cute Japanese model went along with us since we’re gonna have two more locations before we call it a day. She seemed a bit disoriented and quite alone. On hindsight, I should have approached her, but I chickened out. Lol :D

It was the hotel’s Japanese Cuisine resto, so it was time to use them chopsticks again. But I’m getting better at it, I think. I’m still not sure at the names of the dishes, but I tried both their cooked and uncooked ones. My fave has to be their shrimp… err I forgot the name. Did I tell you I suck as a food blogger? :P

It was kinda strange that they have ice creams for desserts. Are those part of the traditional Japanese lunch too? But I guess since we were in Japan, nothing should be questioned as strange.

The lunch buffet cost us ¥2,800.00 each and runs from 11:30AM to 2:00PM only. No wonder we were being hurried inside, we arrived exactly 20 minutes before closing time! We raided the buffet like there was no tomorrow, ¥2,800.00 for a single lunch is quite expensive, we plan to make every yen we paid for worth it.

Yumoto Fujiya Hotel
Address: 256-1 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo, Kanagawa
Contact Number: (81) 460-85-6111
Website: Click Here

GPS Coordinates: 35.232265,139.105014
View Locations on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Old Castles and Unending Rains

2013-04-19T02:06:00.001+08:00

Umbrellas matching the colors of the rainbows bob skywards as visitors navigated the flight of stone steps towards Odawara Castle’s soaring architecture. Slender Japanese cherry trees replete with blossoms framed the inclined stone causeway, painting the much needed color to the sullen grey heavens above.

I was trying to keep my eyes open the whole two hours en route to the Kanagawa Prefecture. I wanted to see Japan even if just from the bus window, but the previous night’s jaunt has taken its toll on me, I couldn’t hold my eyelids open, they were closing on their own accord; I dreamt of cherry blossoms.

Before I knew it, we were already at Odawara City and our Japanese guide was giving out the distinctly Japanese transparent umbrellas for us to use. The rain has not abated, in fact it has intensified.

I left my bag and tripod inside the bus and only brought my two cameras with me. It’s hard enough to shoot while holding an umbrella with one hand without the extra weight of lenses and filters inside a camera bag. The 1.3-kilo Sony A77 and the half-kilo Sony NEX5N was the lightest set-up I was able get away with.

A murky moat lined by flowering sakura trees surrounded the Odawara Castle complex. The white outer walls of the fortress and its graciously curving black-tiled roof looked majestic even under Japan’s gray weather. I can see triangular holes punctuating the keep’s walls, probably gun holes used to defend the donjon during the country’s tumultous eras.

Wet gravel crunched under my shoes as I proceeded deeper into the fortress’ inner walls. Odawara Castle has a total of three massive portals; the Tokiwagi, Akagane and Umade Gates. Each one is as graceful and as massive as the previous. Its doors are made of wood and copper plates held by hundreds of metal bolts.

I let my feet wander through the citadel’s many inner chambers. My companions were busy shooting a Japanese model garbed in traditional kimono. She looked lovely surrounded by cherry blossoms and all, but I’m really not a model shooter. I took a couple of frames and went my own way.

The area surrounding the Odawara Castle is sakura heaven. No wonder the Sony peeps chose it for our second day in Japan. Old cherry trees line the sidewalks and blossoms litter the grounds. It was really just unfortunate that the heavens decided not to cooperate.

I found two gift shops inside the complex, the first one hawking usual souvenir items like ref magnets, key chains and notepads and the other selling much more authentic keepsakes like prints and wooden toys. I’m still kicking myself for not getting a Samurai print inlaid on white fabric. If only it wasn’t so expensive!

Rising 70 meters from sea level, the Hirayama-styled Odawara Castle at last revealed itself after much walking and stair-climbing. The original structure was built in 1447 during Japan’s Edo Period and underwent numerous reconstructions until the Great 1923 Kanto Earthquake which finally toppled it to the ground.

It was not until twelve years later that the Japanese Government decided to restore the castle to its former glory. But not without controversy though; the original three-tiered, five-storey keep is almost historically accurate except for the observation deck found on the upper tier of the castle. Apparently, it was an add-on imposed by Odawara’s tourism guys.

But the castle is still impressive even if it’s just a replica of its former grandeur; making it into the list of Japan’s 100 Finest Castles is still an impressive feat. I would’ve entered its halls too if not for the ¥600.00 entrance fee and the prohibition of taking pictures. They’re so strict that even cellphone snaps are not allowed.

Three hours later and it’s still raining; my pants, shoes and socks were completely soaked and we still have two more sites to check out. I would’ve preferred visiting Odawara’s National Landmark on a sunny day but beggars can’t be choosers. Cold, drenched and tired; I was still a happy camper as we boarded our bus again. It’s not everyday that you get to visit a Japanese Castle anyway.

Odawara Castle
Address: 6-1 Jonai, Odawara, Kanagawa, Japan
Contact Number: (81) 465-23-1373
Entrance Fee: Free except inside the Castle
Open Hours: 9:00AM to 5:00PM Daily
Website: Click Here

GPS Coordinates: 35.250986,139.15345
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Rainy Morning to Atago Shrine

2013-04-18T00:08:00.001+08:00

Cherry blossoms fell like snowflakes along the sidewalks of Tokyo along with the incessant drizzle. It was our second day in Japan and the country’s weather was apparently not on our side.

My no-sleep plan was put on hold as rain started to pour after our Tokyo Tower night shoot. I was able to rest for two hours before my alarm blared its muffled tones below my pillow. Like a zombie, I groggily went to the window and fully awakened to a gray Japanese morning. It was still raining.

But I cannot let rain ruin my day. Our call time was still a few hours away and I wasn’t about to waste those precious minutes inside our hotel. After a quick breakfast, I quickly packed my cameras and headed outside. I checked my map and followed the crowd of umbrella-toting salarymen of Japan.

I have exactly thirty minutes to quickly locate and photograph my query, a certain Atago Shrine. It looked quite near from the hotel we’re staying, well, at least from my map. My GPS was still not working so I had to rely on landmarks denoted on the electronic screen of my cellphone.

Eventually, I found a tunnel that looked like the shrine entrance. The Japanese really value silence, as was like on the bus we rode from Narita Airport, pedestrians are prohibited from making any loud noises while inside the tunnel. I exited and found that I was only half-right about the quiet passage, it wasn’t the shrine entrance but the shrine sits directly above it.

Three storeys above ground, the elevator opened to a very wet causeway to Atago Shrine. The rain was not letting up and even with my umbrella, my pants and shoes were starting to get exquisitely drenched.

Cherry blossoms were all over the ground, it probably would’ve looked really magical if it wasn’t all wet and soggy from the constant rain. I checked my watch, fifteen minutes before call time. I went into overdrive.

I quickly scanned the area and found the shrine entrance framed by lush greeneries. The Atago Shrine, similar to the nearby Konpira Jinja at Toranomon, is originally built during the seventeenth century when Tokugawa reigned supreme over the whole of Japan.

The area is built twenty six meters above sea level and used to have a beautiful panoramic view over Tokyo. That is until skyscrapers started claiming the city’s skylines. In fact, the shrine also doubled as a look-out for devastating fire outbreaks in the area during bygone eras. Ironically, its main deity is the fire god Homusubi no Mikoto.

I was only starting to explore the shrine and was so torn into continuing inside the Atago Jinja versus heading back to the hotel. My cheap wristwatch said that I have only ten minutes left. With a heavy heart, I turned my back against the koi ponds, the red toriis, the sakuras and walked back towards the rainy streets of Tokyo.

Atago Shrine
Address: 1-5-3 Atago, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Contact Number: (03) 3431-0327
Open Hours: 5:00AM to 9:00PM
Website: www.atago-jinja.com

GPS Coordinates: 35.664758,139.748583
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Almost Paris at the Tokyo Tower

2013-04-17T00:56:00.000+08:00

I told myself that I won’t sleep while in Japan. I’m absolutely serious. We only have three days in Tokyo and the first and last days of those three aren’t even whole days. Time is of the essence and I probably won’t die of sleep deprivation if I forget about closing my eyes for two nights. Err… I wouldn’t, right?

I originally planned on walking all the way to Shibuya where Tokyo’s iconic crossing is on my first night in Japan but the sky was foreboding of rain. The megalopolis that is Shibuya is about an hour away by foot so I scrambled for a Plan B.

Earlier that day, a friend told me that Japan’s iconic Tokyo Tower was just a few minutes away from our lodging, Hotel Okura. We tried to reach the tower but failed. The skeletal steel frame of Tokyo’s landmark was almost within reach but we had to turn back since I have to be back at the hotel for our traditional Japanese dinner at Sakura Jaya.

I was thinking of going back to the tower a few hours before dawn but decided to rearrange my schedule. I will shoot Tokyo Tower now and worry about Shibuya’s famous crossing later.
Shining like Paris’ more famous Eiffel, Tokyo Tower rises as the second highest structure in Japan. It has a similar shape to its European counterpart but stands 13 meters higher at 333 meters. Tourists frequent the tower for its observation decks where one can view a breathtaking panorama of the city.

And so we walked. It was almost midnight and frost was coming out every time I tried to breath through my mouth; the evening was crisply cold. The heavens still looked pregnant with rain and no one in the group thought of bringing an umbrella. Genius us.

We were halfway across the tower when it started drizzling.

But even without umbrellas, rain wasn’t going to stop us. We can now see the lighted beacon of the tower. We forged on, drawn by the towering light like moths to a deadly flame. We rushed as the tower came closer.
The Tokyo Tower at last came into view. Everyone whipped out their cameras oblivious to the steady drizzle. I’m gonna take my shirt off to cover my camera while doing long exposures if needed; it was gonna be now or probably never.

Tokyo Tower
Address: 4-2-8, Shibakōen, Minato, Tokyo, Japan
Contact Number: (03) 3433-5111
Open Hours: 9:00AM to 10:00PM Daily
Entrance Fee: ¥820.00 Main Observatory
¥1,420.00 Special Observatory

GPS Coordinates: 35.658473,139.745278
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | The Old and the New at Toranomon’s Konpira Shrine

2013-04-16T00:30:00.001+08:00

One of the things I really like about Tokyo is their appreciation of history. You’d think that since the city’s real estate is highly valued, they’d tear down every old useless structure they have and supplant it with glitzy office buildings. Well, politicians do that in Manila, but not in Tokyo.

Along with Sony Alpha’s camera ambassadors Pilar Tuason and Manny Librodo, we strolled down the streets of Toranomon after our very Japanese banquet at Sakura Jaya restaurant en route to Hotel Okura. It was quite cold as we navigated the sidewalks, stuffing our bare hands inside our jacket pockets.

We turned a corner and surprisingly found a Shinto shrine nestled right between towering masses of steel and glass buildings. I was simply in awe as to how the Japanese with all their ultra-modern metropolises still gingerly and respectfully hold on to their history and culture.

I asked our Japanese companion about the small temple; he said it’s called the Konpira Shrine, named after the guardian and deity of seafarers and fishermen. There is no exact marker on its construction date (or I really just don’t know how to read Japanese), but he said that it is believed to be made during the seventeenth century.

There are numerous shrines dedicated to the deity Konpira (金比羅), its main one located in Kagawa Prefecture. But in Tokyo, Toranomon’s Konpira Shrine is the largest, being located at one of the old gates of Edo Castle.

And although its size is dwarfed by the neighboring skyscrapers, it still maintains a grandiosity missing in the adjacent structures. Its ornate multi-tiered roofs, the graceful curving eaves, its bronze torii gates and the simple yet somehow complex trims on its walls easily surpass its glass and steel counterparts.

The design is said to be from the Edo or Tokugawa Period of Japan. Kyoto was still the country’s capital then, but since the Tokugawa Shogunate is seated at Edo, a fishing village in those days, it became the Japan’s de facto capital.

That Edo, which literally translated means bay entrance, is now the bustling city called Tokyo.

I recall reading a quote how a city without old buildings is a city without a soul. That’s one quote you can never say about Japan.

Toranomon Konpira Shrine
Address: 1丁目-2-7 Toranomon, Minato, Tokyo
Contact Number: (03) 3501-9355

GPS Coordinates: 35.669618,139.747973
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

JAPAN | Of Geishas and Kaisekis

2013-04-15T01:18:00.001+08:00

Face immaculately white, hair tied in traditional Japanese fashion and garbed in beautifully colored kimonos; the geishas gracefully entered Sakura Jaya’s Kasuga room. A sweet smile formed on her shockingly red lips and dimples punctuated her doll-like face. It was my first day in Japan and I’m actually meeting a real geisha; my plain sun-kissed face across her porcelain-white one.

There were no snow, there were no rain, but it was freezingly cold outside Japan. Giant neon signs mix with traditional shops and torii gates. We just came from Tokyo’s confusing maze of train stations and walked the colorfully Japanese streets of Asakusa for our dinner in Mukojima.

Pink cherry blossoms whispered their moshi-moshis as we passed through the restaurant’s wooden portal. Shoes removed, we were ushered into Sakura Jaya’s interiors. Our host, Sony Philippines, probably ensured that before we go rushing to a Japanese McDonald’s, we have our authentic Japanese dinner first. A very expensive dinner that cost ¥20,000.00 per person at that.

The building itself looks quite modern with its simple glass exterior, but once you get past its courtyard, it transforms into the Japanese settings most people are familiar with. Once in a while, you’ll get jarred by modern appurtenances like, for example, an elevator, but I guess that’s just how it is. We’re in Japan after all.

Padding softly on uwabaki footwear, we emerged into the waiting area of the upper floors where we were once again requested to remove our shoes. If you think Filipinos are stickler for removing sandals before entering houses, wait till you meet the Japanese; it’s part and parcel of their customs to remove footwear used outdoors when entering places where the floors are made of polished wood, carpeted in rugs and especially those laid with tatami mats.

And indeed our dining room is laid with the traditional Japanese rice straw mat or tatami. Named after a city in Fukuoka, Sakura Jaya’s Kasuga room can easily seat 10 to 35 persons. The table is traditionally laid low but worry not, guests won’t have to kneel seiza-style for hours on end; there’s ample legroom cut below the table for normal sitting posture. Thank goodness for that, I thought I’ll be battling cramped legs while eating.

Camera shutters exhausted from the two geishas, everyone readied for dinner. I’m not particularly familiar with Japanese cuisines and the art of using chopsticks. My education goes only so far as Manila’s Japanese fast food joint, Tokyo Tokyo, but I’m game and ready for anything they’d be serving on the table.

We’d be having a multi-course dinner, commonly referred to in Japan as Kaiseki. According to Sakura Jaya’s site, it’s a seven-course Mizugashi meal comprising of “fried, vinegared dishes, boiled, grilled, medium bowl, appetizer, sashimi, with destination”. Destination? I’ll show you what destination is later. :D

Okay, as I previously said, I’m no expert when it comes to Japanese food. My taste buds are limited to tonkatsus, katsudons, tempuras and sushis. I have absolutely no idea what the geishas were serving except for a few of the dishes. And the unlimited Asahi beer, I recognize quite well, of course.

So without further ado, I present to you our very Japanese dinner. And please don’t ask me their names. :D

I wish I was a real food critic so I can share with you all the intricate nuances of each course. But alas, I’m totally not. All I can say is that I like most of the dishes; the remaining few, I really can’t say that I didn’t. I guess they’re just…different; an alien dish on my very native tongue.

It was a generous meal but I still reserved some space for the final destination. And that destination? Sake!

I guess Google Translate has still got a long way to go eh? But no matter, it was my first time to try out Japan’s alcoholic beverage of choice; and it is quite excellent, if I may say so myself.

Our tummy full, our spirits high; we again slipped our shoes on, donned our jackets and stepped out into the cold Japanese night. Today, it’s all about geishas and kaisekis. Tomorrow we’ll have our sakuras and Japanese castles.

Sakura Jaya
Address: Sumida-ku, Tokyo Mukojima 5-24-10
Contact Number: (03) 3622-2800
Fax: (03) 3625-7116
Website: http://sakurajaya.jp/

GPS Coordinates: 35.717156,139.809678
View location on Google Maps: Click Here

EN ROUTE | Manila – Japan

2013-04-12T15:05:00.001+08:00

I dream of Japan. I dream of white-faced geishas. Rains of blooming sakuras. Graceful white donjons and temples framed by poetic tree branches. The bright lights of Blade Runner-esque cityscapes. The snow-capped Mount Fuji on the horizon. Cosplay girls. Sumo wrestlers. Samurai warriors.

I awoke and saw nothing but blue skies and streaks of clouds from my window. I was flying 28,000 feet above the fringes of the North Pacific Ocean, halfway between Manila and Japan; it was almost unbelievable.

Not a month ago, together with some travelers, we were just discussing the impossibility of Japan for budget backpackers. This country is definitely not easy on the wallet.

Our plane flew lower and cruised over the coast of the Japan. Being picked by Sony Philippines to accompany its three brand ambassador in promoting their newest camera line was surreal. But seeing the microchip-like landscape from my window made me realize that this is no dream.

Incomprehensible Japanese words echoed through the cabin as we slowly dove down to Chiba’s Narita International Airport. Winter has just passed but I can see some white-topped trees dotting the landscapes below; my first real view of the sakuras.

Snailing past the immigration officers, we train-transferred to Narita’s main building, quickly exchanged dollars to yens and bought a ¥3,000.00 bus ticket. Tokyo awaits us.

“Please do not use your celphone while inside the bus as it might disturb the neighbor” a recorded voice announced through the PA system. Silence is probably more golden in Japan. But I really don’t mind, phones were the farthest thing on my mind. My eyes were transfixed on the unique Japanese scenery rolling before my window.

An hour later and we alighted at the three-degree temperature of Tokyo. I wasted no time after dumping my bag in my room. And together with S, an old friend from Manila, we quickly went out and tried to unwrap what Japan was all about. I pinched myself; I can probably stop dreaming now.

LAOAG CITY | The Old World Charm of Fort Ilocandia

2013-04-11T19:11:00.001+08:00

A bronze sculpture of a saddled Spanish conquistador brandishing a pointed spear stared at us as we alighted from our bus. We’ve just evaded the usual 10-hour land trip from Manila to Ilocos Norte, thanks to SEAIR’s newest flight route to Laoag City. But still, the weather outside was a real scorcher and we wanted a roof over our head. According to the books, Fort Ilocandia is the only five-star accommodation this side of the Philippines and I’m more than glad to accept their offered hospitality.

Grand crystal chandeliers illuminated the impressive interiors of the hotel lobby. Framed by dark wood panels, carved balustrades and warm bricks, it exudes an aura of old luxurious turn-of-the century Spanish mansions that Ilocos is known for.

Before we trooped to our rooms, a glass of cold lemonade was graciously given to us and along with it, the most excellent Ilocos empanada I’ve ever tasted. I’ve tried Batac’s famous empanadas before and Vigan’s too, but the ones made by Fort Ilocandia almost reached perfection. If only it was a tad hotter, I would have given it a perfect ten. But nine isn’t a bad score either.

En route to our room, which was quite a walk--Fort Ilocandia is huge--we passed by its photographically famous central fountain. Too bad it wasn’t spouting anything then, we were told that the only time it is opened is during events and special occasions. Oh well.

We forged on, passing arched brick portals and lush gardens. Besides its manicured lawns, the sprawling grounds of Fort Ilocandia include swimming pools (an Olympic-sized one and a kiddie pool), kart racing tracks, horse riding grounds and its very own sunny beach.

I love the interiors of this hotel. Almost everything exudes the orange glow of bricks; and if you’re not seeing bricks, its either the flat white color of the ceiling (which greatly accentuates the materials near it) or the exposed dark tongue and groove wooden planks of the second floor. Antique furniture and old-looking paintings are also a nice touch for that colonial period look.

After a few minutes, we at last reached our room. I’m unsure if we were given a Standard Room (Php5,600.00) or a Deluxe one (Php9,600.00) since we weren’t really the ones who booked them (courtesy of SEAIR, thank you very much!). They both looks a bit the same in pictures, except for the verandah.

Well, we do have a nice verandah that looks out to the central lawn and swimming pool, so I guess it’s the Deluxe one we have (which is too expensive for my backpacking wallet).

Well, this is after all a five-star hotel. And besides the nice-looking room, we also got a fully equipped toilet and bath complete with a bathtub. Not that I have the time to sit luxuriously in the tub though. To be honest, it looks a bit dated, but everything is clean and working as expected.

Dinner was held near the fountain area. It was an outdoor buffet consisting of mostly western dishes (dare I ask where the bagnet is!?) and I guess is considered An Event, so the central fountain was turned on. Unfortunately, I was too doggone tired from our raunchy ride at Paoay’s Sand Dunes, I forgot to take a photo of the famous fountain.

A well-traveled friend advised us about ghosts haunting some of the rooms of Fort Ilocandia. I’m not sure if he’s just pulling our leg, but it does get creepy walking the corridors alone at night. To be fair to the hotel, everything is well-lit; it’s really just my over-imaginative and paranoid brain taking over.

But I’m happy to report that there was no need for the Ghostbusters that night and morning shone brightly the next day. There was nothing on itinerary today but to simply hang and let loose. I’m thinking of trying out the pool, or may the beach. But first thing first, I needed my breakfast.

My diet went on hold as I saw a tray-ful of Ilocos longanisa. Okay, I forgive you guys for not including bagnet in the buffet last night. It was the only local fare on the table, but no matter, I can live off these longanisas for an indefinite amount of years.

With renewed energy from the sausages, I braved the heat of the midmorning sun and ventured toward the beach. Since the water is already part of the South China Sea (or Luzon Sea if you’re a patriot), a set of warning levels are posted near the entrance; green for calm waters, yellow for moderate waves and red for strong waves. Swimming is allowed only on the green level.

My keycard wasn’t working as I got back to my room. It seemed that these are time sensitive and it means that my stay at Fort Ilocandia was over (too soon!). But before I gave my room key up, I took a snap of another of the hotel’s more famous photo stops, its grand stairway, and lunched on some more non-Ilocano dishes. Now I’m ready to leave Fort Ilocandia.

Fort Ilocandia Resort
Address: Brgy. 37 Calayab, Laoag City, Ilocos Norte
Contact Numbers: (632) 478-6506 | (632) 478-5315 (0922) 850-5482 | (0916) 772-0001
E-mail: booking@fortilocandia.com.ph
Website: http://www.fortilocandia.com.ph/

GPS Coordinates: 18.155272,120.521951
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here

PAOAY | Riding the Sand Dunes of Paoay

2013-04-09T21:18:00.001+08:00

My worn trek shoes slid through the shifting sand as I navigated a hill. The sun looked like a golden disc, silently and poetically hovering above the hardy trees of Paoay’s arid sand dunes. I kept my pace, battling the loose dunes for that spot on its hilltop where I can try and frame the desert sunset.

I have been to this place before. More than a year ago, while circling the island of Luzon, we decided to drop by and have a peek at Paoay’s odd sand dunes. Deserts aren’t really part of the usual Philippine landscapes and everyone’s curiosity was piqued by this unnatural scenery this part of Ilocos.

Eventually, I made it to one of the higher dunes. A goat quickly evaded me as I wend my way through the sparse undergrowth resilient enough to flourish in this very dry environment. The sun graciously threw some golden rays my way and I answered with a quick succession of shutter clicks.

Just then, a rumble coupled with a chorus of screams echoed from the desert. Within a few seconds, a 4x4 jeep filled with a rowdy crew jumped from the hill and careened down the steep dune, making its passengers holler and screech their lungs out even more.

It was a good preview of what’s in store for us as we’re gonna be riding that same four-wheeled rollercoaster in a few minutes.

I was supposed to ride with my fellow travel bloggers but through chance, got mixed with RJ of the Royal Tru Orange fame (if you still remember that commercial from the 80’s).

The 4x4’s monster tires started rolling and we rumbled on towards the desert dunes of Paoay. The ground was uneven and it was a huge task to simply hold on to the iron bars of the jeep. I initially tried to shoot through the ride, but quickly gave up; I simply didn’t want to be thrown off the 4x4.

We flew into the early desert twilight. Whooping through steep dunes and enjoying the sunset afterglow over the flat lands. It was a rough drive, but everyone seemed to be enjoying it.

A curious structure made from bamboo struck our attention and we requested our driver to stop for a few minutes. The installation looks like a cross between Star Wars and some indigenous tribal ship boat. It was sculptor Leeroy New’s art piece which was supposedly burned last May in culmination of the La Milagrosa Festival.

I’m guessing it was just too interesting to go up into smoke and the locals probably decided to just keep it. One can actually climb inside the peculiar structure before, but our guide warned us that it was now too rickety and advised to simply take pictures instead.

Evening swallowed the desert as we clambered up our 4x4’s once again. We actually could’ve gone farther and experience more of Paoay’s sand dunes and even do some sand boarding but it was getting late. No matter, like what I said in my previous visit here, I’m gonna take it one slow savoring step at a time.

Paoay Sand Dunes 4x4
Address: Brgy. Suba, Paoay, Ilocos Norte
Phone Contact: (0917) 645-3087 | (0929) 771-9036
Rates: Php2,500.00 per 4x4 vehicle (max 6pax).
Includes 30-minute 4x4 ride with 3 stops and sand boarding

GPS Coordinates: 18.140713,120.517037
View location on Google Maps: Click Here

EN ROUTE | Manila to Laoag

2013-04-07T14:26:00.001+08:00

Recently SEAIR (South East Asian Airlines) announced that they would be opening a new route to the north of the Philippines. The said route would ply the Manila to Laoag airways and would finally open up the Ilocos Region to an alternative travel schedule.

Together with a couple of travelers, I was invited by the airline to participate in the inaugural flight to Laoag City. I was still reeling from a hectic three-day trip to Japan the previous day, but I just couldn’t say no to this. Jetlagged, I repacked my backpack and headed towards Terminal 4 of NAIA where the SEAIR terminal is.

Coming from a single-digit temperature of Tokyo, Manila’s heat seemed triple times as terrible as I last remembered it to be. I was just so relieved to enter the cool premises of the small airport after a five-minute walk from the streets (el cheapo me, not wanting to take a cab).

Checking in and boarding was no problem. And it was also worth mentioning that the flight was not delayed, a small miracle considering the congestion of our airport runway.

A few minutes later and we were soon soaring towards Ilocos Norte.

I have traveled with SEAIR before towards their now defunct Batanes route. And that flight opened my eyes to the aerial beauty that the north possesses.

For the flight to Laoag City, I requested a window seat so I can take a few photos of the seemingly jigsaw-ish landscapes of the north. I’m actually unsure of what these patterns are, probably farmlands, but like my flight to Batanes, they all seemed filled with water.

Other curious things to see while en route to Laoag were Mount Pinatubo, Mount Arayat and a very interesting aerial view of Baguio City. I was trying hard not to give in to sleep through the whole flight given my literally sleepless Japanese nights.

But the spectacle was over too soon. After an hour or so, the seatbelt sign lighted up and our plane soon nosed down to Ilocos Norte’s tarmac. A blast of warm air greeted us as we disembarked, Manila’s sultry temperature paled in comparison to Laoag City’s.

A flurry of drumbeats and banners welcomed us into Laoag’s brick-lined International Airport. Although their terminal is still partly under construction, I can see that they’ve put some thoughts on its design, heavily borrowing from their own very rich culture.

I have been to Laoag City quite a number of times, either by bus or rented van. I usually depart at night and arrive at the place the next morning. Flights have been coming in to the city from Manila in recent years from other airlines, but they only have it at night, which is really quite a hassle since that’s already a whole day of exploring lost. But now, with SEAIR’s new route, a slew of possibilities have now opened up for travelers, especially those with very limited time, in the Ilocos Region.

POSTCARDS | Impossible Japan

2013-04-02T02:13:00.001+08:00

I distinctly recall a recent conversation I had with some fellow travelers about Japan and how financially impossible it was for ordinary backpackers like us. Over beers we mulled how one traveler we know spent more than a hundred thousand pesos for a two-week stay in the land of sushi and Hayao Miyazaki.

Those thoughts were running in my mind as I was training my camera upwards, over blooming cherry blossoms and the colossal Tokyo Tower. I cannot believe that not a month has passed since that exchange and I am now actually in Japan.