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<title>LakeSide MSC Library Feed</title><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/index.html</link><description>LakeSide MSC Library Feed</description><dc:language>en</dc:language><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><dc:rights>Copyright 2008 LakeSide Model Sailing Club</dc:rights><dc:date>2009-03-03T18:52:15-05:00</dc:date><admin:generatorAgent rdf:resource="http://www.realmacsoftware.com/" />
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<lastBuildDate>Tue, 03 Mar 2009 18:54:20 -0500</lastBuildDate><atom10:link xmlns:atom10="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" rel="self" href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/LakesideMscLibraryFeed" type="application/rss+xml" /><feedburner:browserFriendly></feedburner:browserFriendly><item><title>Sail Battens </title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2009-03-03T18:52:15-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/bf7ccb9a7c3bacd613f13ac03385c9a6-41.html#unique-entry-id-41</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/bf7ccb9a7c3bacd613f13ac03385c9a6-41.html#unique-entry-id-41</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[The first thing to obtain is .005 inch thick (use what ever thickness suites you), 1/4 inch wide Styrene.  Too thick Styrene will not bend with the sail nor too thin Styrene won&rsquo;t have any straightness at all....  Make sure the surface of the sail&rsquo;s leech area where the battens will be is clean....  Next apply a thin coat of Silicone Sealer to both the sail area and to the batten.  Place the batten on the sail and press the batten down and carefully clean the excess sealer off with a paper towel.  When done, check the battens from time to time to make sure they are stuck to the sail.

...I have done this to two 36/600 sails without any problems and it has worked for me.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Increase Your Winch Power And Decrease Your Battery Drain</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2009-01-03T18:26:46-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/2e318f98e90d7f4e30c066bd920145de-40.html#unique-entry-id-40</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/2e318f98e90d7f4e30c066bd920145de-40.html#unique-entry-id-40</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[(null)]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>How To Plank A Round Sided Model Yacht Hull</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2009-01-03T18:22:51-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/a09ec8fdb99f965a8d95c33466c7e514-39.html#unique-entry-id-39</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/a09ec8fdb99f965a8d95c33466c7e514-39.html#unique-entry-id-39</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[You can use a copy machine to enlarge or reduce the lines, or if you're lucky enough to have the actual construction plans these will naturally be more accurate with clean crisp thin lines.

...To build each frame just assemble the pieces one at a time with yellow Tite Bond glue, and hold them in place with the pins.

...If you imagine all these points where the planks converge describing a line in the profile view, then this line is traditionally called the rabbit line.  The stem uses the rabbit line as its front edge, and both sides of the stem are beveled to allow each plank to barely touch its brother on the other side of the boat.

...For each plank, start with a plank about three eighths of an inch wide, and taper it to around three sixteenths of an inch wide at both ends using a sanding block.

...Use a rubber band around the backside of each frame with a piece of string to hold the plank in place while the glue dries.

...After you're done celebrating you cover all of the joints on the inside with epoxy right over the yellow glue, and fill an the gaps and bumps with wood filler on the outside.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Sail Design Basics II</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2009-01-03T18:17:14-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/9bbfc98c71eaf6c1e0b9cbf2f958ac50-38.html#unique-entry-id-38</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/9bbfc98c71eaf6c1e0b9cbf2f958ac50-38.html#unique-entry-id-38</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Instead of using a template or pattern to cut a panel's curve, the panels are put together on a broad seaming molding block.

Cutting and sewing the curve for model yacht sails is difficult but by making a broad seam sail block, makes the job easy....  Our block will be in two hales, with curved mid-point duplicating the shape of the sail's curve.

...Cut the right piece first with the bandsaw at a 3 degree and angle then cut the left piece second also to a 3 degree angle, see Figures 1 and 2.

...When cutting the pieces with the 3 degree angle make sure you cut the angle correctly on each of the 2 pieces.  Once the 2 pieces have been glued together, sand the angles of each side with a sanding block.

...The reason for this is it gives a better platform to lay sail panels on. My first block was only 2" wide, each side being only 1" wide, the panels wanted to fall off in the center.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Sail Design Basics I</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-11-02T20:55:35-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/e2ac06299bd1cf761d7e8d6ed28914b1-37.html#unique-entry-id-37</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/e2ac06299bd1cf761d7e8d6ed28914b1-37.html#unique-entry-id-37</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[The main point to start with is this article centers on the 36/600, 1 Meter, and Marblehead boat classes.

...For example if your mast is 65 inches and you subtract 3 inches for the gooseneck and boom, and 2 inches for the masthead fitting, that leaves you a main sail length of 60 inches for a 36/600 (any boat for that matter.)

...To start we get a total measurement of the jib stay (don't forget that 80% if this is a Marblehead's jib sail).

...Next is the special problem I mention before, you can not measure 90 degree square off the end of the jib's crew, it won't work for an honest calculations.  What you need to do is choose a width and plot a 90 degree line off the luff 2 to 3 inches up from the jib's crew, see the jib sail drawing.

...The main idea here is add or subtract the jib width until you find the correct jib sail area which when added to the main's sail area, it will equal 600 sq.

...One point I want to bring out before we are done, that is always good to check the current American Model Yachting Association (AMYA) Rules for the boat class you are working on before you start.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Combination Mast Step and Keel Fin Trunk</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-09-28T17:09:32-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/c2289af2d1fc9c37cf4bc7a9932416d7-36.html#unique-entry-id-36</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/c2289af2d1fc9c37cf4bc7a9932416d7-36.html#unique-entry-id-36</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[(null)]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Mark Rounding</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-09-01T16:52:06-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/299ec23da599384649a7f90e8d98b297-35.html#unique-entry-id-35</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/299ec23da599384649a7f90e8d98b297-35.html#unique-entry-id-35</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[by Dave Acree

When you come out of a turn of a windward mark and a good number of the fleet are still behind you, your big effort should be getting and keeping clear wind in your sails.  As the figure shows, you will be going some what downwind from the mark and all of the boats behind you will be rounding the mark and dump a poor wind blanket at you.

So when you come out of the turn, angle away from the mark to find clear air.  That is if you're outside, swing wide to be windward of the following boats on the outside of the course.  If you're inside, sail in a bit extra to get away from being dead downwind of the mark.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Mast Abeam Reverse</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-09-01T16:48:51-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/93146d4ea60734020927280f3bd35179-34.html#unique-entry-id-34</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/93146d4ea60734020927280f3bd35179-34.html#unique-entry-id-34</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Along with that rule (also Rule 16, see previous Sailing Tips), they do not prohibit the leeward boat from "obstructing" the boat which is tacking on her.  It all boils down to the point that it makes it harder for the starboard tacker to "slam dunk" a port tacker.  Rule 13 After a boat passes head-to-wind, she shall keep clear of other boats until she is a close-hauled course&hellip;

Under the old rules, the slam dunker could hail mast abeam, or claim she is being obstructed from keeping clear, to prevent the leeward boat from luffing when she is completes her tack.  With the new rules, the boat being dunked can lift as soon as she crosses the starboard tacker's stern, as long as she give the dunker room to keep clear.

So now, if you are being "dunked", and once you have crossed the tacker's transom, you can now luff the dunker!...  You can now respond, "Leeward, there is no longer a mast abeam, so I can luff you so long I give you room to keep clear."]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Light Air Sailing</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-08-03T00:30:37-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/07792c348d938dda94a1e1228ea7a4ba-33.html#unique-entry-id-33</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/07792c348d938dda94a1e1228ea7a4ba-33.html#unique-entry-id-33</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Chucking the boat into a tack may look good and the owner having thoughts 'oh boy it tacks fast', but has forgotten that this violent tack just killed all boat speed, and in light air this takes a long time to regenerate.

...All too often I see boats on light air days with everything on far too tight and fittings that are just way too heavy for the job at hand.

...If the mainsheet post is too far below the boom, then as soon as the main is sheeted hard on it will pull down, thus reducing upper sail twist, which will stall out the top of the sail and reduce speed.

...The net result is a boat literally stalled on the exit from the bottom mark, jammed up into the wind and sliding sideways rapidly, as there is no attached airflow on the sails to drive forward, and no forward motion of the boat to generate lift.

...When others got to the mark and jammed their boat into a ninety-degree turn with the gybe to boot, I just quietly bore a way around the outside in a smooth turn and gybed slowly, thus retaining speed and sailed an initial low course for the next mark....  Add to this not only the air disturbance of all the sails, but also the water disturbance by hull waves and foil flow through the water, and you can see what I meant by close and tight is not necessarily the fastest way around a mark.

I could go on a lot longer, but you will by now have the message that attitude, patience, and careful boat set up will make those very light air days much more enjoyable.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Start Wind Shadows</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-08-03T00:26:43-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/bda691481e727bff2ab2a681b269afb0-32.html#unique-entry-id-32</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/bda691481e727bff2ab2a681b269afb0-32.html#unique-entry-id-32</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[With all of the backwind it will be difficult for boats D and E to get any good wind to start with.

...If light wind is the conditions of the day and you are caught in the back of the pack at the start, the odds are not in your favor.

...In a tightly packed group of boats as the above example shows, boats A and B may be feeling some effect of disturbed wind....  The only time in a tightly packed group of boats when turbulence is not too much of a problem is when the wind is strong and steady.  When this occurs, most of the time boats can get enough wind to keep their speed up until the pack spreads out.

...If the wind stays steady or a lift occurs for boat C, then boat C will gain water toward the windward mark over the other boats.

...It is better to be behind the leading boats with your boat at full speed at the start than trying to fight for position and end up in the disturbed air of the lead boats.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Irons</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-08-03T00:24:54-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/70cef85548051c4568e201c3991d633f-31.html#unique-entry-id-31</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/70cef85548051c4568e201c3991d633f-31.html#unique-entry-id-31</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[However, with a bit of common sense and application of basic sailing theory it is possible for a skipper to bring a boat out of irons on the first attempt and on the desired tack.

...(Other potential situations are pinching too hard, attempting to luff another boat, responding to a luff by another boat, broaching, etc.) As a boat nears head to wind it's sail starts to luff and the boat slows.

...This same counterclockwise rotation of the rudder will cause the stern to swing to starboard, the bow to swing to port and the boat backs into a turn to starboard.  Thus, irrespective of whether the boat is moving forward or aft, a counterclockwise rudder movement will cause the boat to enter a turn to starboard in it's direction of travel.

...In practice, if you are caught in irons and want to recover on a starboard tack simply hold the rudder control for a normal turn to starboard, wait until the boat starts moving aft, and the boat will back onto a starboard tack....  Therefore, when coming out of irons, it is vital that the rudder by returned to neutral (or turned in the opposite direction to bear off) as soon as the sails fill and the boat starts to move forward.

...It is virtually impossible to avoid getting caught in irons so when it happens, don't feel as though someone has it in for you, just grit your teeth, set your rudder, wait for the boat to start moving aft and do it your way!]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>What Knot For Me?</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-06-28T16:12:19-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/fc54041283919985de3322ad3a8b7dee-30.html#unique-entry-id-30</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/fc54041283919985de3322ad3a8b7dee-30.html#unique-entry-id-30</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[By Dick Hein, AMYA Treasurer Here is a little knot trick I have been using for years any time I need a slip knot connection (most connections).  As an example, we can use a loop of line to connect the luff of the main to the mast.  Pass the line around the mast and through a hole in the sail.  Holding one side of the line straight, loop the other side around the straight side, then pass the end through the loop.  When this little knot is tightened, it will slide on the straight end.  For your mast loop, adjust the loop to the desired luff gap and lock the knot with a drop of glue.  When you keep this knot under tension, it maintains a good lock, but releases easily when tension is removed.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Weak Arm Winch?</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-06-28T16:10:50-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/ae0f7f076ef7ea63e878a6d38fb57e63-29.html#unique-entry-id-29</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/ae0f7f076ef7ea63e878a6d38fb57e63-29.html#unique-entry-id-29</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[By Dick Rutledge, AMYA Vice president If your arm winch is slightly weak, try running a short length of elastic cord attached to the arm.  This way when the arm lets the sail out it pulls the cord and when the sails are brought in the tension of the cord helps pull the arm through the critical load area.  I know some folks that do this in high winds only to give their winch some help.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Smooth Finish</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-06-28T16:09:42-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/29f9bce3156c4a37c7ab4333ad2dd925-28.html#unique-entry-id-28</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/29f9bce3156c4a37c7ab4333ad2dd925-28.html#unique-entry-id-28</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[(null)]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Servo's and Their Problems</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Radio Controls</category><dc:date>2008-06-28T16:07:03-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/4504e88e2e16e95b668341b18adc0eb3-27.html#unique-entry-id-27</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/4504e88e2e16e95b668341b18adc0eb3-27.html#unique-entry-id-27</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[There was a time when the, store would exchange the standard servo for one with more power (inch oz....  I have found that once servos start to go bad, no amount of work on them lasts....  if you turn to starboard and then release the stick so it centers itself, it tends to Rome back so slowly that you over steer to port.  This confuses the skipper because now the yacht wants to go to port and not sail in the straight line intended....  and the speed of 360 degrees in 1.3 seconds using a 5 volt battery it's no slouch.  At about $50.00 it is not too high priced for the skipper that needs a reliable winch....  I'm sure it's a good winch, just remember it costs more dollars than the HITEC, and until tested who knows if it's better.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Keep Your Receiver Dry</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Radio Controls</category><dc:date>2008-06-28T16:05:15-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/e0cc14e7f0565c5f78ef6f3d274b662d-26.html#unique-entry-id-26</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/e0cc14e7f0565c5f78ef6f3d274b662d-26.html#unique-entry-id-26</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[From the Space Coast MSC Newsletter &ldquo;The Dock Line&rdquo; Ever lose control of your boat due to a wet receiver?  Try this and it should help.  Get a 12" round balloon and cut the neck off.  With the neck cut off you can stretch it open and put your receiver inside with the wires coming out the hole.  This will keep the water from splashing in. If you want to go one step further you can wrap the neck of the balloon with a tie wrap and make it almost waterproof.  One word of caution however take the receiver out of the balloon to let it dry out before laying the boat up for the week, Over time the water will condense in the balloon and you will have a wet receiver next time.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Main Sail Twist</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-06-02T20:01:12-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/fd9bcc67265c23dab65abe1578aa5932-25.html#unique-entry-id-25</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/fd9bcc67265c23dab65abe1578aa5932-25.html#unique-entry-id-25</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[This is because of the light winds which are prevalent in this area and many times you would see these rigged yachts sail away leaving the rest of the short rigged boats adrift.  It is safe to say that there is more wind aloft and tall sails capture it, so it is within reason to say wind blows 60 percent at the top of the sails....  At any one time there can be 3 to 5 degrees of twist in the apparent wind from the bottom of the sail to the top.

...Next, take the yacht out to an open area and set the boat on a stand at an angle as if it was heeled over beating to windward....  Next, sight the top of the main sail, it should lie out one and 3/4 inches from the backstay line.  You can now adjust the jib so that it too follows the main sail's twist while keeping the slot between the two sails the same all the way along the length.

...In speed terms, having more twist, or more leeward sag to the leech (remember sighting by using the backstay line) gives the sail less power.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Take It Easy</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-06-02T19:58:49-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/e5197c67eccc4f4ac3915b5543fd4ed1-24.html#unique-entry-id-24</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/e5197c67eccc4f4ac3915b5543fd4ed1-24.html#unique-entry-id-24</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[With the exception of the jib-stay, tensioning of various parts of the standing rigging should be such that they are slightly tighter than the amount necessary to remove any visible slack in the affected part.

...Very slightly eased in light winds, and tighter in high winds (a good approximation or starting point for setting the backstay tension is reached when pressing forward on the masthead causes the forestay to slacken slightly but not become floppy).

...Normally the load should be carried by the jibstay rather than the jib luff and on occasion it may be carried equally, but the load should never he allowed to be carried by the luff alone (i.e.: jibstay slack within the doubled luff).

...Often in very high winds it is desirable to intentionally induce more twist to "unload" the head of the sail in order to reduce heeling, but this technique should be used with caution since on occasion too much twist can induce a high degree of roll when on a run.

...The absolute minimum camber used should allow one finger to be easily inserted between the foot of a sail and its boom, and this only when sailing in the highest of winds.

...Any creasing or distortion (as may occur if sail material is permitted to lie against sharp or angular surfaces, or as a result of over tensioning) will be permanent and will interfere with smooth airflow across the surfaces of the sail resulting in decreased performance.  Violent luffing will &ldquo;soften" sail material by causing resinated surfaces to break down which will, in turn, allow the weave of the cloth to distort and lessen the ability of the material to hold its designed shape, In both cases the useful life of the sail is greatly shortened.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Rig Selection</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-04-30T21:21:23-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/f93b5533c2ed9f14e8841db026b83b6c-23.html#unique-entry-id-23</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/f93b5533c2ed9f14e8841db026b83b6c-23.html#unique-entry-id-23</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Ideally, the angle of heel should never exceed 45 degrees at any time, and certainly it's not a wise idea to try to tack when the boat is heeling more than 45 degrees.

...Generally it's acceptable to use twist or back winding to de-power a rig in the puffs, but if you must sail with the trim this way all the time, then a shorter rig is indicated.

...The optimum rig for downwind work is usually the largest rig you can carry and still be able to control the boat in the puffs, and without diving to the point where green water (as opposed to spray) comes over the deck....  of lead would probably be hard to tack with an 80 inch rig in much over 5 knots of wind, but would probably exhibit no problems downwind at these wind speeds.  It's this designer's opinion that the optimum boat should be stiff enough to carry a given rig to windward to about the same wind speed where problems start to occur downwind.

...If we graph the angle of heel versus wind speed for 0 to 30 knots, for the above four idealized rigs, we will first notice that between 10 and 50 degrees of heel, the curves are virtually straight lines.

...This may lead to a vicious circle of events in which the increased drag leads to bow down trim, which leads to increased down force, which leads to diving, which can nearly stop the boat, pulling the rudder out of the water, and causing a broach, or going into irons.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Early Starters</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-04-30T21:17:47-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/75ae726c3d76c33d44dba691d5634048-22.html#unique-entry-id-22</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/75ae726c3d76c33d44dba691d5634048-22.html#unique-entry-id-22</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[For this series of Sailing Tips, we are going to begin at the start of a race with one of the most common problem, over the starting line early.

...The first thing to understand is if your boat is over the starting line before the starting ding on the clock, you now have no rights.

...Many times I have seen an early boat try to hard tack toward the starting buoy, to re-round and start over right in the way of other boats!

...It is very simple, since you are over the starting line early and you have boats on both sides of you, let out your sails and stop....  By having your boat come to a stop and letting other boats pass you, this is the only way to re-start without any more penalties.  Once the other boats are clear of you, you may proceed to re-round the start mark and re-start the race with full rights, see Figure 2.

Stop and think about this for a while, by coming to a complete stop without tacking and letting other boats pass, you keep your boat out of more hot water than what you are in. This will increase your chances of getting back into the race to win!]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Non-Optimum Conditions</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-04-30T21:14:18-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/c84cfd7be0a6a42bdda6caecb383207e-21.html#unique-entry-id-21</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/c84cfd7be0a6a42bdda6caecb383207e-21.html#unique-entry-id-21</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[In light conditions, there is very little energy in the moving air, and if your sails are too full, the flow will not stay attached to the leeward side of the sails, but will separate causing at least part of the sail to stall....  You want either all three leeward telltales (both Jib and upper Main) to stall together, or in very light conditions, even a bit more twist so that the lower Jib telltale stall slightly before the others.

...You want to keep the slot open, so that you have lots of air flowing through it to increase the power of the main, and indeed having more difference in the sheeting angles of the Jib and Main in effect increases the camber of the entire rig, if you view both sails as working together, without having either sail set too full.

...You are trying to achieve enough Jib stay tension that: a) the Jib doesn't get too full right behind the luff in the puffs, and b) the clew of the jib doesn't lift too much in the puffs, de-powering the jib and causing excess weather helm.

...Once you have the Main set as flat as possible without getting "over bend" wrinkles, with lots of backstay tension and the Main out haul set at full flat, you will undoubtedly have to tighten the boom vang to reset the twist.  Try to achieve a twist so that in the lulls, the top, leeward telltale of the Main is stalling along with the Jib, but that in the puffs, which are trying to overpower the boat, the Main leech twists off more, even to the point of luffing a bit in extreme puffs.

...The Main will be back winded more, and the top of it will luff a bit, both of which-will decrease the angle of heel, and therefore the leeway, while increasing your control over the boat.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Hardening the Mainsheet</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-03-31T19:40:42-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/5918c2824f174a42e7258ddd9514f8ba-5.html#unique-entry-id-5</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/5918c2824f174a42e7258ddd9514f8ba-5.html#unique-entry-id-5</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[The amount of "lift" felt by the jib is increased, and both the jib and main may stall....  Over sheeting the main, is therefore to be avoided, with the exception of situations requiring that you really must pinch.  Be forewarned, however, that you cannot keep this up for more than a few boat lengths, before speed suffers, and leeway increases to the point that you will loose more than you gain....  This will increase the jib's drive, while reducing its heeling force, much as easing- the mainsheet did for the main.  In addition, it will increase the suction on the lee side of the main (its "power"), therefore increasing both its drive and heeling force.  The change in heeling forces nearly cancel , and the result is a net increase in forward drive from both sails....  There will also be an increase in weather helm, due to the Centre of Effort moving aft.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Hardening the Jib Sheet</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-03-31T19:38:25-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/2401d8bd33411b260bdccf5049b8bda0-6.html#unique-entry-id-6</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/2401d8bd33411b260bdccf5049b8bda0-6.html#unique-entry-id-6</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[By now you may have the idea that changing the relationship between the main and the jib could be a useful way to tune the boat for different conditions.  This, of course, is exactly the idea behind a Jib Trim. It should not be used, however, as a substitute .for poor tuning techniques.  The boat should be trimmed 'for the average conditions at the time, so that the Jib Trim is just that, and is not used instead of changing rigs, or rig position, when this is the proper course of action....  When this is found, then the necessary adjustments should be made so that the Jib Trim can be returned to its middle position again.

When you are using a Jib Trim, bear in mind that any change to the jib sheeting angle will probably require a slight course correction to keep the jib from luffing or stalling....  By coordinating the Jib Trim with the Sail Winch, you can do things like ease the mainsheet, by first hardening the Jib Trim, and then letting out both sails until the jib returns to normal....  By reversing the procedure, you can pull in the mainsheet until it is on the verge of a stall to pinch effectively, although not.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Heavy Air Sailing - Tips and Techniques</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-03-31T19:36:25-04:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/ee897a25f74eb510a64a34272c857174-4.html#unique-entry-id-4</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/ee897a25f74eb510a64a34272c857174-4.html#unique-entry-id-4</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[One of the main problems encountered particularly in the smaller sized radio yachts is their tendency to nosedive going downwind, as well as sail into irons when trying to tack sailing upwind.

...The payoff is that whilst competitors who hold onto the larger rig may well take off from the start., get to the first mark ten or twenty boat lengths ahead of you, they are likely to lose that distance and more each time a gust buries the bow on the downwind legs.

...It does mean that you will have to tighten rig tension, vang pressure, backstay pressure as well as flattening the sails to achieve the desired shape.  Remember that the wind wants to blow the sail into a much fuller shape as well as the mast bend loosening the leeches of the sails.  It is important to control the mast bend as far as practical by the use of rig tension, mast rams and the like.

...It is important to exhaust the main, as sheeting it too close is a sure-fire method of making the boat travel very slowly and round up into irons.

...This allows the boat to accelerate rather than heeling, The steering needs to be adjusted as well, especially sailing directly down wind, to avoid the dreaded nose-dive.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Mast Position</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-03-09T01:16:45-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/ed0671191e47c08a12727915cf18ac61-3.html#unique-entry-id-3</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/ed0671191e47c08a12727915cf18ac61-3.html#unique-entry-id-3</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[By slight, I mean that it should not require you to constantly hold the helm down, but the boat should sail several boat lengths without luffing in steady winds, gradually coming to the point where the windward jib telltales will flutter, and will require you to bear off very slightly....  If it sails as though it is on rails, then it may have either neutral helm, or a slight amount of lee helm.

...If it has a lot of twist, the angle of heel will be less, the CE will move ahead, and the mast may have to be moved back to compensate.

...As a starting point, this means that the center third of the mainsail leach should be parallel to the centerline of the boat, and when viewed from behind, the jib leach should parallel the main leach, far enough out to prevent back winding.  This will give you a center point for your mast step, and you should have about an inch of adjustment left in either direction....  The amount of "slight" weather helm that your are after should virtually disappear when you move the mast ahead about &frac12; inch, and the boat should point nearly as high and feel like it is "on rails", providing the angle of heel stays between 30 to 35 degrees.  I find that each additional 10 degrees of heel will require the mast to move ahead about &frac12; inch to maintain the same helm and vice versa.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Water in the Boat</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-03-09T00:15:45-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/b0dad772c8fb0d33805fb1952daad02b-1.html#unique-entry-id-1</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/b0dad772c8fb0d33805fb1952daad02b-1.html#unique-entry-id-1</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[by Dick Wischer Many of you that read this will notice that we keep on the subject of water leaks in the hull.  The reason is that it is the one worry that must be cured before you have major problems.  When the hull takes on all that water, the battery connection gets wet and corrosion IS the result....  If it is not sailing on the lines it was designed to sail on, it slows down.  If you sail in salt water and get water in the receiver, you can almost kiss those electronics good-by.  I have had the battery connector drop into salty water, instant loss of current to the receiver....  If this happens, the best cure is to wash everything in tap water as soon as possible.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Tools of the Trade</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-03-08T00:14:12-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/cfab0c02585e464573abc17235160d7d-0.html#unique-entry-id-0</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/cfab0c02585e464573abc17235160d7d-0.html#unique-entry-id-0</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[By Dick Wischer THE BASICS if you have a bare hull, deck, keel, rudder, mast, & sails from a manufacturer, here are some things you will want to have to assemble the model....  The screw drivers we have around the house are usually too big, as are the saws and other tools we normally use....  A drill that can take small drills is good to have, and of course a set of drills from 1/16" to perhaps 1/15"....  Dremel make a variable speed tool that has many uses, now Robi is in the market with one that you set the speed and an on/off switch allows the speed of the tool to remain where you last set it....  I also get the fast set for the Crazy glue to set it with no wait....  If you are going to make a centerboard trunk for a removable keel, 3/16" plywood is a must....  That makes it a bit bigger so you can fit the keel in. Next I double stick Saran wrap to act as a release agent.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Balance Your Boat</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-03-06T00:17:19-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/d99a49c94eff3a921b68eb2124f239a1-2.html#unique-entry-id-2</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/d99a49c94eff3a921b68eb2124f239a1-2.html#unique-entry-id-2</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[It is commonly accepted that the aerodynamic forces generated by the sail plan can be concentrated in a single point called the center-of-effort (CE).

...When the person moves away from the pivot point the position of the plank changes and the side supporting the person tilts down, (We could achieve the same effect by moving the pivot point away from the person but it would be slightly more difficult.)

...The CE can "travel" within a large area of the sail plan depending upon how each sail is set (i.e.: tensions along each sail edge) and the trim of each sail relative to the other.  The CLR location is also quite mobile with its initial location being dictated by the underwater shape of the hull (i.e.: full keel, fin keel, etc.), and it has relatively large excursions for various angles of heel and fore/aft trim. When the boat is upright in the water both the CE and CLR are on the fore/aft centerline and the waterline entry at the bow is symmetrical.

...Later, as you gain more experience, you can try other adjustments such as "tweaking" the set of the sails, changing the trim of the sails, etc. Be certain when attempting a variety of adjustments to make them one-at-a- time so you will know how each affects the balance, Also keep in mind that different wind strengths will call for readjustment to keep the boat as closely balanced as possible.

Because every boat is different (e.g.: old sails versus new sails, rough bottom versus smooth bottom, different fore/aft distributions of internal equipment, etc.) it is up to you to experiment and find the optimum settings for your boat....  Also remember, when you are making balance adjustments keep the picture of the seesaw in mind and you will always know which way to go.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Sails, Part 1: Sail Camber</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-03-01T19:56:41-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/174d217b4461918530b4175ac789291b-12.html#unique-entry-id-12</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/174d217b4461918530b4175ac789291b-12.html#unique-entry-id-12</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[By no means am I an expert so most of the information will be from the book "Sail Power" by Wallace Ross and several past AMYA articles by Bill Webb, Bill Mercer and Bob Jensen....  It is the measurement for only one curvature at one height in a sail's section.  Now the equation: camber ratio = depth / chord It works like this (note, you will need to convert measurements to percents - 1/2 = .50), a 5/8" Depth with a 10" Chord, is applied to the equation: .625 / 10 = .0625 We need to percent the results by multiplying by 100, this will give the Depth or Camber of 6.25%.  For what we want to do, if you want fuller sails the more camber; for flatter sails the less camber.  Below is an illustration to help explain the sail design concept: ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Wind</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-02-29T20:06:21-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/871c98e3e731ded8ac80572858e0cc47-16.html#unique-entry-id-16</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/871c98e3e731ded8ac80572858e0cc47-16.html#unique-entry-id-16</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[In basic terms, the Coriollis force is the heating of the air over the equatorial regions of the earth, and at the same time, the cooling of air over the polar regions.  This heating and cooling over the different parts of the earth causes the air to move from the warm equator to the poles, and then back to the equator once the air cools.

...Gradient wind blows parallel to isobars (isobars are lines drawn on a weather map that connect places of equal atmospheric pressure; isobars close together indicate a steeper gradient of pressure and stronger winds....  They still blow parallel to the isobars, but are no longer balanced by only the pressure gradient and Coriolis forces, and do not have the same velocity as geostrophic winds.

Frontal Systems are air masses of a warm or cool temperature, and when there is an abrupt difference between two such air masses, a front exists.

...In simple terms a sea breeze is when warm air rises off the land, flows aloft toward the sea where it is cooled, and wind flows back toward land.  Land Breeze is opposite, warm air rises off the water, and flows aloft toward the land where it is cooled, and wind blows back toward the sea.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Windward Positioning</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-02-29T19:53:10-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/c909c5e6fb5a697cf1b5d628640423d1-9.html#unique-entry-id-9</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/c909c5e6fb5a697cf1b5d628640423d1-9.html#unique-entry-id-9</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[A successful strategy of sailing to the windward mark, starts with keeping a close eye on ever changing wind conditions, your position on the course and the competition on the course.  Once you have decided which side is favored, all of your efforts are geared to take advantage of it.  Along with finding the favored side, you next task it hold or gain your position in reference to your competition.

If it is not clear which side is favored and you decide to stay in the middle of the fleet, watch what the other boats are doing....  One thing to remember, if you are heading to the layline too early, it can cause you to lose position and go over the layline.

...Look at example A, when boats are on the left side of the course near the port tack layline, the port boat should duck and stay the port tack....  For the right side of the course, see example C, the port boat should consider tacking to leeward and ahead of the starboard boat.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Painting Tips for Model Yachts Building </title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-02-29T19:52:10-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/ad2d67993fe49db88f6e372bab91035c-8.html#unique-entry-id-8</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/ad2d67993fe49db88f6e372bab91035c-8.html#unique-entry-id-8</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Fill in all pin holes (I hate pin holes, there is always a few who escape), wipe off the hull with a lent-free cloth....  Cleaning a hull can create this pest which attracts dust, a damp cloth stops this but you don't want a wet hull either.

...After a few minutes spray on the second coat, a little heavier then stop and wait....  Since boat hulls are made of fiberglass or kevlar which don't allow the paint to absorb into, we give it itself.

...When you start your final coat, spray the paint to where it has a wet gloss.

...If a spot needs at little spray, give it now while the paint is wet and STOP!

...I did the above painting steps after I watch Jim do them on my first 36/600 hull and my attempt on my second hull came out fine!]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Sails, Part 2: Sail Making</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-02-29T19:47:31-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/eed1ac3612205b7207e37792cfd85926-7.html#unique-entry-id-7</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/eed1ac3612205b7207e37792cfd85926-7.html#unique-entry-id-7</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[With that there is another important factor in sail making, it is plotting a sail's Draft Location.

...Once you have a basic triangler sail design drawn on paper, there are a few steps that needs to be done.  For 36/600 class sails, the standard panel size are 12" wide with an overlap of 1/8" to 1/4" for the tape seam....  This first lower panel seam should be around 4" to 5" up on the triangle line and clear the corner patches.

...For each seam line, the Draft location will be at 40% in from the luff....  For example, the width of a seam is 10" 3/4 (you will have to convert the fraction to a percent by dividing the numerator by the denominator).

...If all measurements and calculations are correct,draw a line through all seam's Draft locations on the sail.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Sail Maintenance</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-02-17T20:01:03-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/7178569881b104372920d2ca0e01aef1-14.html#unique-entry-id-14</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/7178569881b104372920d2ca0e01aef1-14.html#unique-entry-id-14</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Always take along some rip stop tape or some good quality scotch filament tape to repair damage to your sails....  We have had geese and swans fly into them, loosing control of the yacht and it sails into trees whose branches eat sails....  Remember, once you stick tape to most of the sail material we use, it is there to stay....  Now when you make a repair the sail will be smooth and not jump up at your repair tape....  Another thing that can help sails last longer is to loosen all lines when you store the sails after a days racing....  The problem is, unless you have no seams in the sail, every seam and the tape that holds it or stitching, is a potential place to give and stretch....  Look at those seams closely with a two and 1 D2 power eye loop some time, you may see a problem in the making.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Mark Rounding</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-01-29T20:09:07-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/453a7fbd4fedf663d707b47ae50a6957-18.html#unique-entry-id-18</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/453a7fbd4fedf663d707b47ae50a6957-18.html#unique-entry-id-18</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[By Dave Acree

When you come out of a turn of a windward mark and a good number of the fleet are still behind you, your big effort should be getting and keeping clear wind in your sails.  As the figure shows, you will be going some what downwind from the mark and all of the boats behind you will be rounding the mark and dump a poor wind blanket at you.  ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>My Feet Are Curling Up!!</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Builder’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-01-29T20:07:20-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/befca81c72b12b1ac1e48ffc87a6412e-17.html#unique-entry-id-17</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/befca81c72b12b1ac1e48ffc87a6412e-17.html#unique-entry-id-17</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[This usually appears as a noticeable curl in the foot of sails which are built with some foot round (extra cloth outside of the straight line between the tack and the clew).

Such curling is minimized if the sails are rolled on their shipping tube in the opposite way that the material came from the manufacturer, but some residual curl may still be exhibited by the new sails.

...Over time, the best approach seems to be mounting the sails on the rig and storing the rig in a vertical position with no tensions on halyards, downhauls, vangs, or outhauls.  While a small, residual amount of curl may be observed in the feet of sails that are a couple months old, sails that are regularly used will quickly lose the curl.

...Bottom line - - - focus on developing good sail camber and appropriate twist in the upper half of jib and main where the wind is moving fastest and capable of developing the greatest power.  Once you can tune those parts of the sail well, turn your attention to making the jib and main work efficiently together on the beats by setting appropriate jib twist, and on the reaches by adjustment of the speed at which jib and main sheets let the sails out.  If all these parts are working correctly, then take a peek at your feet, but don't forget to look up the course and see where the new wind is going to be coming from.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Living With Light Air</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-01-29T20:04:37-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/863631881e28dfbb618dcd1697ea6ae6-15.html#unique-entry-id-15</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/863631881e28dfbb618dcd1697ea6ae6-15.html#unique-entry-id-15</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[East Coast 12 Meter skipper Rick West of the Delta Model Yacht Club recently took the time to write up his experiences with sailing in very light air in a fleet which was not short of top notch skippers.

...To power up the upper mainsail one works to set maximum camber (10% or so) in the upper half of the mainsail by using minimum twist, then balance that against a fairly flat jib that can be set somewhat outboard to allow an open slot.

...The clew problem would likely have been minimized by a switch to the loop approach outlined above, but consider that the wind pressure on the sail at 1 mph is the same as the pull of gravity on the sail if it is held horizontal.

...This is pretty good confirmation by yet another skipper that if the wind will remain much below 2 mph and the water is flat, that lighter weight materials such as TriSpi 40 (1.0 oz) and even TriSpi 25 (0.6) ounce will provide better performance....  The PX75 is also strong enough to hold its shape well up into the 14 - 15 mph wind range, so with appropriate mast bend can act as an all purpose A-suit for the EC-12.

...The surface smoothness of the PX 75 is suspected to contribute to its efficiency, but there have been events which I have attended where former Class Secretary Jerry Brower walked away with the silver in rainy, light air races by using a set of 2 oz dacron sails that I built for him in 1985.

...But given our focus on light air, it must be said that likely the airspeed is so slow and burbled by being shoved over the gunwale, that we would be better off working on camber in the upper parts of the main (and jib) and then using aft streaming telltales from the upper two battens to make sure we don't allow them to become stalled.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Broaching</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-01-29T20:00:03-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/8a9283bab2d165e8dd5e122eb0d35b39-13.html#unique-entry-id-13</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/8a9283bab2d165e8dd5e122eb0d35b39-13.html#unique-entry-id-13</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Being close hauled in a strong wind means that the boat is usually already at a large angle of heel and the rudder deflected to weather to counter the turning effects of heeling.  When true wind velocity increases during a gust the apparent wind shifts aft and windward pressure on the sails in- creases markedly (wind pressure varies directly as the square of the velocity, i.e. if wind speed doubles the pressure increases to four times its former value).  This pressure increase causes the angle of heel to increase sharply, and increasing aerodynamic and hydrodynamic forces act to cause the boat to rapidly round up to windward The high turn-rate can also generate a centrifugal force which acts upon the mass of the mast and rigging to further increase the angle of heel....  When the boat has turned far enough to windward to start the sails lulling the overturning wind pressure begins to ease allowing the angle of heel and the turn-rate to decrease and the rudder to start regaining some effectiveness.

...When the gust arrives, or preferably slightly before, rapidly ease your sails, completely luffing if necessary, to minimize the increased heeling effect, and use no more than half rudder to compensate for the start of the turning effect....  If your timing is right the eased and slightly luffing sails should become full as the apparent wind shifts aft and boat speed should increase, and the faster a boat goes the more effective its rudder becomes so not as much deflection is necessary.

...Obviously you will not be able to curtail all broaches but with constant and diligent practice you should be able to negate a large percentage of them and minimize the effects of those you missed.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Seamanlike and Tactical Mark Roundings</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-01-29T19:55:44-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/405d692a91ced01ec8a5d38fbcce859d-11.html#unique-entry-id-11</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/405d692a91ced01ec8a5d38fbcce859d-11.html#unique-entry-id-11</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[(a) When boats are overlapped before one of them reaches the two-length zone, if the outside boat has the right-of-way, she shall give the inside boat room to pass the mark or obstruction, or if the inside boat has right-of-way the outside boat shall keep clear.

...First, to get a better understanding of terms, let's take a look at the ISAF's definitions of 'room', 'right-of-way' and 'overlap'....  Overlapped, On the Same Tack - when boats are on the same tack and overlapped, a windward boat shall keep clear of a leeward boat.

...If you are the outside boat and leeward, you need only give the inside boat the minimum amount of room to make a 'seamanlike' rounding, This means giving equal space around the mark throughout your turn around the mark.

On the other hand, if the inside boat is the leeward boat, it has the right to make a 'tactical' rounding.

...If you are the outside leeward boat, you are only required as stated in the rule, to give the inside boat the minimum amount of room to round a mark and stay clear of her.

If you are the inside boat and leeward, you can delay your rounding which is your proper course and make it your advantage.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Telling Tales</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2008-01-29T19:54:53-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/bfc2ef4d22d921a35d8a20938218c964-10.html#unique-entry-id-10</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/bfc2ef4d22d921a35d8a20938218c964-10.html#unique-entry-id-10</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[One of the problems model boat sailors face is that we are on the shore and the boats are on the water and the physical feedback of wind speed and direction is altered by the distance.

...Well, we can see the wind by using telltales, The purpose of telltales is to allow us to see the wind passing by our sails so we can trim and steer our boats to maximize the efficiency of our sails, therefore maximizing boat speed....  They should be brightly colored so that you can see them at a distance and light enough to flow in a light breeze....  The jib telltales are placed in pairs on each side of the sail about one third and two thirds up from the foot, favoring the upper portion of the sail, and about an inch back from the luff.

...You'll soon see that when your boat is trimmed properly and moving fast that the leeward telltales are streaming back parallel with the water....  Again restore the direction of your boat to that "slot" in the wind and you will see the boat speed pick up when your telltails again begin to flow.

...If your sails are set properly the main sail telltales will flow straight out and parallel when the jib telltales are flowing.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Wind and Sailing</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2007-12-29T20:10:48-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/8c1b203ac2d18e193e098997dbbf061c-19.html#unique-entry-id-19</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/8c1b203ac2d18e193e098997dbbf061c-19.html#unique-entry-id-19</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[In model yachting we always seem to have enough wind to move, perhaps very slowly, but some way is made through the water....  There are ways to see where the wind is coming from, and how near it is, if you can read the signs.

...It is a good idea to have a telltail on your backstay, or a wind direction indicator in the mast crane that can indicate any breeze near your yacht.  Watching other yachts will help; reading the water ripples, or the leaves on the trees in the direction you are going helps to find the motor needed to move your yacht....  In very light air find your own wind, getting ahead is the goal, try to keep your yacht moving, you must find the air that others canﬂt see.

...Sailing the edge of that area holds the most wind, it has the lift needed to move you when others are standing still.

...If your approaching a buoy and have the room, it is best not to pinch to round the mark.]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Sail Trim</title><dc:creator>gbs3@mindspring.com</dc:creator><category>Skipper’s Corner</category><dc:date>2007-12-28T20:11:45-05:00</dc:date><link>http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/0b7126bb7b767fa93ee0eedf2dba0212-20.html#unique-entry-id-20</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lakesidemsc.org/library/files/0b7126bb7b767fa93ee0eedf2dba0212-20.html#unique-entry-id-20</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[With the proper amount of weather helm the boat will head up in puffs and fall off in lulls.

...Adjust vang to allow main leech to be parallel with boat's centerline about half way up the sail (stand in back of boat and line up the battens so you can see the leeward side of the bottom batten, the windward side of the top batten and neither side of the middle battens).

...Set jib sheet so that you can see jib clew from behind the main when standing behind the boat.

...Sail the boat close-hauled away from you to check the twist of both the mainsail and the jib.

...Tighten backstay tension until you see diagonal creases from clew to midpoint of sail and then reduce the tension slightly until creases just disappear.

...Tighten downhaul and outhaul to the point where wrinkles just start to appear in order to flatten jib....  Jib slot doesn't have to be as large as with normal sailing, tighten slot until jib back winds the main in puffs but not the lulls.]]></content:encoded></item></channel>
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