Landscape Vision Design Software: Garden Tips & News

Gardening Jobs for July

2009-07-06T20:39:00.000-04:00

Yellow or undersize foliage on your trees indicates a lack of nourishment. Feed them regularly, but don't overdo it.

If you have any houseplants sitting directly in the window, make sure the light is filtered or the plant is moved to a site out of direct sunlight. The windowpane intensifies the heat, and you don't want to scorch your plants.

Fertilize your houseplants frequently to ensure vigorous growth.

Extend the indoor life of your cut flowers by putting them in a solution that is one part water, one part clear soft drink (such as 7-Up, Sprite, etc.), and a few drops chlorine bleach.

Snip off the old flower clusters from rambler roses to encourage them to bloom all summer.

If you have thick, thriving phlox, thin the plants to four or five stalks per clump to provide adequate ventilation and avoid mildew.

You can sow a fall crop of bush beans now. Plant seeds two inches deep to protect them from the hot Sun. You can sow other vegetable seeds for an autumn yield, too, by planting them just a little deeper than you did in the spring. The best time to plant is after a rain shower.

If your celery is doing well, tie the stalks together to keep them from sprawling.

If you missed your peas' peak period, you can still pick, dry, and shell them for use in winter soups.

Don't water your melons at the base of the stems. Doing so can cause rot. Build up a little earth around the stems to keep water away.

Once melon vines have set three or four fruits, remove any new blossoms. The remaining fruits will benefit from this, and you will still have plenty.

Don't tug too hard on your raspberries when picking. A ripe raspberry will leave the vine willingly.

http://www.almanac.com

The Importance of The Clean Water Act

2009-07-06T20:31:00.000-04:00

The Importance of The Clean Water Act

"The 1972 Clean Water Act was written to protect the health of all of America's waters. But as a result of two Supreme Court decisions this monumental law was weakened. These decisions left thousands of waterways and acres of wetlands exposed to pollution and development. As you read this, 59 percent of America's waterways, serving drinking water systems for 110 million Americans, are at risk from court decisions that have weakened federal protections for these waters.

Recently, Sen. Russell Feingold, D-WI, and several co-sponsors introduced the Clean Water Restoration Act in the Senate to strength the protections provided to America's waters and restore the Clean Water Act.

The need for the Clean Water Restoration Act is clear. We're asking you to take action and urge your Senators to support the Clean Water Restoration Act.

The Clean Water Restoration Act can restore critical protections - defending our water resources from pollution, destruction, floods, and droughts.

Recent interpretations of the Clean Water Act have put many of our water bodies in legal limbo. Now, more than 500 enforcement cases have been dropped by the federal Environmental Protection Agency.

Since 2001, more than 10,000 wetlands, streams, rivers and lakes that supply 5,646 public water supply systems have been declared unprotected by the Army Corps of Engineers because of recent court decisions.

Introducing this legislation is not enough. Delay is not an option. Congress must pass the Clean Water Restoration Act this year!"

Written information above has been quoted from The Clean Water Action

For more information on how to make a difference, click on:
http://salsa.democracyinaction.org/o/2155/t/201/p/dia/action/public/?action_KEY=751

Dealing With Droughts: Who Will Be The Ultimate Garden Survivor?

2009-06-11T15:03:00.002-04:00

Hey, droughts happen. Don't lament losses. Instead, smart gardeners celebrate small victories.

The lush pastel palettes that splashed across our spring gardens just a few months ago have segued into a mass of straw-colored lawns and limp plants that look like they're ready to be thrown into the garbage heap. After the first few weeks of trying to maintain the greenness within the drought restrictions of our communities, we realize we already have lost the battle. All we can do is resolutely limit ourselves to using drip hoses or some variation to salvage the most valuable of our trees, bushes and perennials.

Much of the country is in the midst of a major drought, and gardeners in the East, where I live, have dealt with these conditions for five of the last six summers. Most of us have been forced to come to grips with this water-challenged situation by now. For some gardeners, this fluke or pattern of nature takes on an air of grave importance.

But among the gardeners I know, a different sensibility prevails. It's an attitude of expectancy, mixed with curiosity and even optimism. You see, for gardeners who have worked their own piece of land year after year and experienced the awesome power of nature several times before, this summer's parched landscape is no surprise. These people have a sense of equanimity from having come head to head with the beauty and stillness of nature. They no longer perceive themselves as having lost the fight if parts of their gardens succumb to the lack of water. They don't complain about what is dying or how terrible things look. To the contrary, these folks engage in gleeful conversations about the specimens that have heartily survived the drought or the latest efficient watering device they have rigged up. They are too occupied taking note of the edgy beauty of one of their thriving succulents nestled up against the dried-up seedpod of a perennial that normally would be in full bloom to spend any time on the "what ifs" of this summer of 2002.

This family of gardeners shares a single piece of knowledge: that they are not in charge. In a world that values mastery and efficiency, they have learned an invaluable lesson. They know they can work hard, do everything technically correct and even possess the flair of an artist in their gardens -- but when it comes to the big strokes, the outcome of the garden is not in their hands, but in the hands of nature or God.

These gardeners have made their peace with the Darwinian theory of survival and understand that we humans are just a cog in the wheel. Any façade of self-importance has been exiled from their souls. They don't talk about the existential philosophy of it all. They are too busy living and gardening. When the full bloom of spring envelops their senses, they breathe in each intoxicating moment. In the dog days of summer they talk about what is happening now, this moment, in their garden. They possess a sense of lightheartedness, persistence and curiosity. These are folks who work the land because they have to; it gives them pleasure, peace of mind and meaning in their lives. It is precisely because they know that the ultimate outcome of each season's garden is beyond their control that they have the ability to immerse themselves in the act of gardening, relishing it for what it is: a place to learn important lessons about life.

5 plants that scoff at drought

These drought-resistant perennials can be planted in midsummer. Water consistently for up to two weeks until the plant adjusts to its new home. Note: Zone numbers refer to the USDA's map of gardening climates. International Falls, Minn., for instance, is in cold Zone 3; Honolulu is in tropical Zone 11. (See map at www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone.)

Achillea specimens(yarrow) have gray or green fern-like leaves with daisy-like flowerheads, grouped together, that bloom through the summer and fall. Comesi n white, red, yellow, orange and pink. Depending on the species (thereare more than 85), they can be grown anywhere from Zone 3 to Zone 9. Check the species to make sure it thrives in your zone. Prefers full sun in an open space but will survive in a variety of conditions.

Coreopsis specimens(tickseed) are from the Asteraceae family. They have daisy-like yellowor pink flower heads that grow on long stalks and attract bees. Long blooming period; great for cut flowers. A rapid spreader. Check species and your zone to make sure it thrives in your climate. Some do well from Zone 3 to Zone 9. Grow in full sun or partial shade. Deadhead for continuous bloom.

Hemerocallis (day lily) is one of the great workhorses of the garden. Flowers come in a variety of forms, and colors include white, orange, yellow, burgundy and pink. After blooming, cut the stems of the dead flower heads back to the base of the plant for repeat blooms. Rapid spreaders, they look most impressive planted in large quantities. They do well in sun but will be just fine in partial shade. Hardy from Zone 3 to Zone 10.

Lavandula(lavender) is a group of aromatic shrubs and perennials whose fragrant flowers appeal to bees because of their high level of nectar. Does well in moderately fertile soil in full sun. Grows abundantly in Mediterranean climates. Great for hillside plantings, border plantings and as part of a perennial border. Leaves and flower heads can be used as dried flowers, sachets and potpourri. Depending on the species, can be grown from Zone 5 to Zone 9.

Sedum species(stonecrop) include more than 400 annuals and perennials that usually are succulent. Grow in fertile, well-drained soil, neutral to a bit alkaline, in full sun. Even when the flower is not in bloom, in spring and early summer, the leaves and shape (fairly low-growing mound) of the sedum add an unusual color and texture to the mixed border or rock garden. Will continue to bloom throughout the fall. Beautiful in the autumn garden when combined with salvias, asters and fall-blooming perennial grasses. Depending on the species, it can thrive from Zone 5to Zone 9.

To read more from Fran Sorin visit here informative web site.

www.fransorin.com

Garden Jobs for June from Old Farmers Almanac

2009-06-01T11:22:00.000-04:00

Any bedding plants you find for sale can safely be planted outdoors in beds, boxes, or containers.

The pros recommend treating tulips as annuals with the exception of species tulips. Painful as it may be, yank those tulips up, compost them, and plan to plant the bed anew in the fall.

If you long for a hanging basket filled with blossoms, compare prices on different-size plants. It may be more economical to buy several small plants and combine them yourself rather than pay for one large plant. Starting this month, keep hanging plants such as fuchsias well watered and out of direct sun, or their leaves will burn.

Plants that bloom now include balloon flower; Canterbury bells; clematis; coreopsis; delphiniums; English, painted, and Shasta daisies; foxgloves; Oriental poppies; and sweet William.

If you're growing June-bearing strawberries, pinch off all the flowers that bloom the first spring after planting. If not allowed to bear fruit, they will spend their food reserves on developing healthy roots.

Encourage young fruit trees to develop strong limbs and a wider crotch angle by weighing down the branches with clothespins.

Thin fruit trees by leaving 1 fruit approximately every 6 to 12 inches along the branches or 1 fruit per cluster. The higher the leaf-to-fruit ratio, the sweeter the fruit. A standard apple tree should have about 40 leaves for each fruit. Dwarf apples, which usually produce a ration of 1 fruit to about 25 leaves, will yield better-quality fruit when thinned.

Stop cutting asparagus when the yield decreases and the spears diminish in size. Top-dress the bed with compost or well-rotted manure.

Stake tomatoes or build cages around them.

Plant beets and carrots for a late-fall crop.

As the days grow warmer, yank up lettuce that begins to bolt and toss it on your compost pile. Plant another crop of beans in its place.

Thin crowded plantings of lettuce, carrots, beets, and herbs. Give them a good watering when the job is finished to help the roots of remaining plants recover from any damage your pulling may have inflicted.

Religiously patrol your basil plantings and remove all the clusters of flower buds that form at the stem ends the minute you see them forming. This will encourage nice bushy plants and a continuing supply of leaves.

Place beer-filled plastic tubs or saucers in the garden, set level with the soil, to lure slugs to a drunken death. (Studies show they prefer imported beer.) Or place a few old boards in the garden and turn them over every morning to find slugs as they sleep. Dispose of them by dropping them into soapy water or crushing them with a brick.

Mulch around trees to create a safe zone where your mower won't go. Nicking a tree trunk can seriously damage even a well-established tree.

Mow your lawn according to the needs of the grass, not the calendar -- for example, every Saturday. Grasses thicken and provide better cover when regularly clipped at the proper height. Adjust your lawn mower blades to cut the grass at 2 or 3 inches rather than at 1 1/2 inches.

Prune rhododendrons after they flower. On young and old plants, snap off spent flower stalks by bending them over until they break away from their stems. Be careful not to damage growth buds at the base of each flower stalk.

Don't trim iris leaves into scallops or fan shapes after the flowers fade. Leaves carry on photosynthesis and develop nourishment for next year's growth. Cut off brown tips and remove the flowering stalk down to the rhizome. If you're dividing irises, cut the leaves back by about half just before you move them.

If you're growing plants outdoors in containers, don't use a soilless potting mix. Be sure it contains at least half soil. Or make your own blend for window boxes and patio containers by mixing one part compost, one part garden soil, and one part builder's sand.

When shopping at a nursery, don't buy a tree or shrub with a damaged root ball. Inspect it carefully to make sure it is uniform, not crushed, and a good size. For every inch of the trunk, the ball should be seven to eight inches in diameter.

Unless you're working your way through knee-high grass, don't remove those grass clippings from the lawn. Leave them where they fall to filter down to the soil, decompose, and recycle nutrients into the roots.

Check out the Almanac, there's so much to learn! http://www.almanac.com/

Fertilizer by the Numbers Paul Tukey People Places and Plants

2009-05-20T21:46:00.000-04:00

As I've traveled around the nation to talk about our nonprofit foundation SafeLawns.org, I've encountered a tremendous amount of confusion about organic products. "What's really organic, and what isn't?" people ask. A recent Internet poll of 1,162 home gardeners, commissioned by the Organic Trade Association, indicated that 97 percent of gardeners are confused by fertilizers and soil amendments labeled as organic.

Among the other perplexing decisions concerning fertilizer involves the digits on the front of the bag. Americans, who inherently like big numbers, are drawn to the bags of synthetic fertilizer that offer 32-18-24 in their percentages of (N) nitrogen, (P) phosphorus and (K) potassium. You'll probably notice that organic bags of fertilizer have far smaller numbers on the front; a ratio of 5-1-3 would be common.

The obvious question is: How can organic fertilizers possibly compete in performance and value when the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is so low in comparison?

WHAT'S ORGANIC? — The answers are somewhat complex and we'll tackle the definition of "organic" first. Chemists will argue that anything containing a carbon molecule is therefore organic, but in gardening that designation doesn't fly. A true organic fertilizer should be derived exclusively from either animal or plant byproducts, or mined minerals such as gypsum, limestone or greensand. Organic products should not contain ingredients such as urea or ammonium nitrate, which are manufactured in a laboratory by burning copious amounts of fossil fuel.

The confusion in the use of organic products often involves the deliberate deception perpetrated by some extremely clever marketers. That means that you, as a consumer, parent, pet owner and homeowner, need to be a really good student of the language. Watch closely, for example, for the phrase "organic based." By placing this phrase on a bag, the marketers are duping people into thinking the product is perfectly safe. Many organic based products do contain some organic materials, but most often also contain synthetic materials which often harm the environment.

The other favored word by marketing companies is "natural." Absolutely no legal strangleholds are placed on the word "natural," and therefore it can literally mean anything. The best advice is to be sure to read the ingredient labels. If you see a whole bunch of chemical compounds listed on the bag, box or bottle, then chances are it's not truly organic.

In the future, as SafeLawns.org grows in stature and resources, we plan to offer a SafeLawns.org Seal of Approval. Until then, look for a seal from OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) on the organic fertilizer; that national organization offers a voluntary standardization program for organic fertilizers. Locally, the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association (MOFGA) offers an approval process of its own.

FERTILIZER BY THE NUMBERS — Another clear indicator that a fertilizer is not organic would be the numbers on the front of the bag. If you see values of greater than 9-5-6 for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, the product is not likely to be organic. Straight blood meal, often collected from cows during slaughter, contains about 14 percent nitrogen, but not much phosphorus and potassium. Pure bone meal, also most often derived from cows, contains as much as 20 percent phosphorus, but no nitrogen and potassium.

To get high values of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium simultaneously in an organic fertilizer would be impossible, but that doesn't mean organic products don't offer good value. Organic products release their nutrients slowly and become part of the soil in time; synthetic fertilizers, on the other hand, tend to leach away and need to be reapplied time and time again.

The Environmental Protection Agency estimates that only 35 percent of the synthetic fertilizer that homeowners apply actually feeds plants; the other 65 percent washes into the surface water and groundwater, or volatizes into the air we breathe. So if your 40-pound bag of synthetic fertilizer contains 30 percent nitrogen — 12 pounds of N — that means that approximately eight pounds of nitrogen winds up in the water and air. Water becomes green and eutrified; air quality diminishes.

Think of it this way next time you shop for fertilizer . . . when you buy and apply organic products, you're investing in an annuity that will pay you and your garden back for years. If you buy and apply synthetic fertilizer, it's just like term life insurance. The older you get, the more you need to apply and the more expensive it becomes!

Check Out the numerous resources for education, such as www.melna.org or www.rodaleinstitute.org . For video tips specific to organic lawn care, you can now visit www.SafeLawns.org.

Be sure to let us know what you think after viewing the video. Send me an email at
Paul Tukey at paul@ppplants.com.

Gardening Support

2009-05-19T11:15:00.000-04:00

Just found this really neat site that offers you gardening advise from fellow gardeners and professional. Worth a look.

http://www.plantconcierge.com/

Old Farmers Almanac

2009-05-19T10:52:00.002-04:00

When to plant What?

Check out the link below, choice your region and get your planting guide.

http://www.almanac.com/garden/plantingtable/index.php

Discount Offer...

2009-05-18T10:17:00.001-04:00

Have you checked out our new version of our popular landscape design software, Landscape Vision?

You should, it's pretty cool. In this version we let you Preview outdoor living products, then Purchase them!

We're adding products all the time. There still is of course our award winning plant data base.

Check us out and if you are interested, here's a discount code just for our Blog viewers that offers you $10.00 off!

You'll be asked for this code during the check out process. Here's the code BLOG-Q7S1

http://www.landscapeyourvisions.com

Red In The Garden by Fran Sorin

2009-05-13T11:27:00.001-04:00

Red In The Garden

When used with great abandon, as in the red garden at Hidcote or what was once the red border at the now defunct Hadspen Garden (but that can still be seen in Nori and Sandra Pope’s book Color By Design), red rules!

The sight of a crisp, blood red jolts our senses and makes us feel more alive. The color red says ‘Notice me. I’m a diva and a force with which to be reckoned.’

After all, why does someone choose to buy a red car or a red cocktail dress? They're giving off the signal loud and clear that ‘I’m one sexy siren. Touch me and you’ll sizzle!’

In order to pull off a red garden successfully, you need to be fearless! When a red garden works, there is nothing quite as magical and powerful.

Cool New Features

2009-05-06T17:13:00.000-04:00

Spend More Time Outdoors Gardening

Add Outdoor Living Products: Landscape Vision has joined forces with a number of top on-line vendors offering high quality outdoor living products for you to preview on your lawns and patios .These selected vendors have prepared high-quality images that are available on their web sites and our shopping site LVGREENTEAM.COM. We’ll link you to both. You simply copy these images onto your desktops and import them into your landscape design. Now you can see them where they’d reside on your property, if you like them, buy them with just a few clicks right from your design!. Fountains, Birdbaths, Lawn Furniture, and much more, all available for you to see before you buy!

How the First Earth Day Came About

2009-04-22T10:15:00.000-04:00

How the First Earth Day Came About
By Senator Gaylord Nelson, Founder of Earth Day

What was the purpose of Earth Day? How did it start? These are the questions I am most frequently asked.

Actually, the idea for Earth Day evolved over a period of seven years starting in 1962. For several years, it had been troubling me that the state of our environment was simply a non-issue in the politics of the country. Finally, in November 1962, an idea occurred to me that was, I thought, a virtual cinch to put the environment into the political "limelight" once and for all. The idea was to persuade President Kennedy to give visibility to this issue by going on a national conservation tour. I flew to Washington to discuss the proposal with Attorney General Robert Kennedy, who liked the idea. So did the President. The President began his five-day, eleven-state conservation tour in September 1963. For many reasons the tour did not succeed in putting the issue onto the national political agenda. However, it was the germ of the idea that ultimately flowered into Earth Day.

I continued to speak on environmental issues to a variety of audiences in some twenty-five states. All across the country, evidence of environmental degradation was appearing everywhere, and everyone noticed except the political establishment. The environmental issue simply was not to be found on the nation's political agenda. The people were concerned, but the politicians were not.

After President Kennedy's tour, I still hoped for some idea that would thrust the environment into the political mainstream. Six years would pass before the idea that became Earth Day occurred to me while on a conservation speaking tour out West in the summer of 1969. At the time, anti-Vietnam War demonstrations, called "teach-ins," had spread to college campuses all across the nation. Suddenly, the idea occurred to me - why not organize a huge grassroots protest over what was happening to our environment?

I was satisfied that if we could tap into the environmental concerns of the general public and infuse the student anti-war energy into the environmental cause, we could generate a demonstration that would force this issue onto the political agenda. It was a big gamble, but worth a try.

At a conference in Seattle in September 1969, I announced that in the spring of 1970 there would be a nationwide grassroots demonstration on behalf of the environment and invited everyone to participate. The wire services carried the story from coast to coast. The response was electric. It took off like gangbusters. Telegrams, letters, and telephone inquiries poured in from all across the country. The American people finally had a forum to express its concern about what was happening to the land, rivers, lakes, and air - and they did so with spectacular exuberance. For the next four months, two members of my Senate staff, Linda Billings and John Heritage, managed Earth Day affairs out of my Senate office.

Five months before Earth Day, on Sunday, November 30, 1969, The New York Times carried a lengthy article by Gladwin Hill reporting on the astonishing proliferation of environmental events:

"Rising concern about the environmental crisis is sweeping the nation's campuses with an intensity that may be on its way to eclipsing student discontent over the war in Vietnam...a national day of observance of environmental problems...is being planned for next spring...when a nationwide environmental 'teach-in'...coordinated from the office of Senator Gaylord Nelson is planned...."

It was obvious that we were headed for a spectacular success on Earth Day. It was also obvious that grassroots activities had ballooned beyond the capacity of my U.S. Senate office staff to keep up with the telephone calls, paper work, inquiries, etc. In mid-January, three months before Earth Day, John Gardner, Founder of Common Cause, provided temporary space for a Washington, D.C. headquarters. I staffed the office with college students and selected Denis Hayes as coordinator of activities.

Earth Day worked because of the spontaneous response at the grassroots level. We had neither the time nor resources to organize 20 million demonstrators and the thousands of schools and local communities that participated. That was the remarkable thing about Earth Day. It organized itself.

http://earthday.envirolink.org/history.html

Perennials for your flower garden By Yvonne Cunnington

2009-04-20T20:39:00.000-04:00

PERENNIAL PLANTS FOR SUNNY GARDENS

Bearded iris - Modern cultivars with better color, more blooms

Cranesbill (perennial geranium) - charming and indispensable garden plants

Cushion spurge - Long-blooming flowers for spring with Euphorbia polychroma

Daylilies - Hardy, easy-to-grow favorites

Dianthus 'Firewitch' - A perfect low-growing spring flower

Echinacea - New-look coneflowers

False blue indigo - A gorgeous, easy-care native

Geranium Rozanne - 2008 Perennial Plant of the Year

Lavender - Makes an elegant edging plant

Lilies (Lilium) - Beautiful blooms that mix well with other flowers

Nepeta 'Walker's Low' - Handsome catmint

Peonies - Colorful, fragrant and fabulous

Roses - Discover the allure of rose gardening

Russian sage - Here's one for hot, dry gardens

Shasta daisy - Classic flower, easy-care plant

Siberian iris - Easy-to-grow early-season flowers

PERENNIAL PLANTS FOR SHADE
Ferns - terrific foliage and deer-proof too

Helleborus × hybridus (lenten rose) - Long-blooming flowers for early spring

Hosta - The shade garden star

Japanese Painted Fern - Attractive and low-maintenance

For more amazingly helpful gardening tips check out our friend Yvonne Cunnington's site
http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/sign-up.html

Garden Jobs for April from the Old Famers Almanac

2009-04-04T19:10:00.001-04:00

Start coleus cuttings now to plant outdoors in the garden by early June. These colorful plants are enjoying a revival as fine accents to annual and perennial borders.
Rake or remove mulches from all flower beds.
Plant rosebushes. They often do best if planted before growth starts and buds swell. And if you want to increase their fragrance, surround them with parsley.
Scatter annual poppy seeds in your flower garden and let them grow where they will. They don't like to be transplanted.
Broadcast lime, wood ashes, or a mixture of the two over alkaline-loving perennials such as delphiniums and dianthus. Bring color outdoors to patios, porches, and even the garden with pansy plants, which don't mind cold nights. To encourage constant flowering, routinely remove spent blossoms and keep them from getting bone-dry.
Sow sweet peas as soon as the soil can be worked. Nick the seeds with a nail file and plant them five inches deep, but cover them with only about three inches of soil. Hoe more soil up around them as they grow.
Plant lilies-of-the-valley, violets, and garden lilies. Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials, including delphiniums, irises, chrysanthemums, daisies, and phlox.
Although we think of this as a rainy month, it can fool us. Keep transplanted flowers well watered during dry spells.
When danger of frost has passed, uncover strawberry beds and keep them well watered.
Plant blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, and fruit trees.
Start seeds indoors for heat-loving crops such as eggplant, tomatoes, and squash.
To determine whether your garden soil is ready for seeds, grab a good handful of it. If you can form it into a ball, the soil is too wet. If it crumbles through your fingers and reminds you of chocolate cake, it's ready for planting.
If the soil is ready, give it a good stirring and let it sit for several days. Then top-dress it with compost or well-rotted manure and plant beets, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, radishes, parsnips, lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnips.
If you got your peas in last month, be sure to give them a good fence for support, made of chicken wire, twine, or stubby branches that are at least three feet tall. Otherwise, plant them this month as soon as you can.
Scatter spinach or lettuce seeds around emerging bulb foliage to make wise use of your garden space, and have a leafy green crop at the ready to cover the bare spots left by deadheaded spring flowers.
Prune forsythias as soon as the flowers fade. Cut the oldest stems to within a foot of the ground, but be sure to let the plant keep its arching form; don't turn it into a gumdrop or cannonball.
Feed your trees. As soon as the frost goes out of the ground, give them a well-balanced slow-release fertilizer. Scatter about six good handfuls per each 10x10-foot area. Store leftover fertilizer in a small plastic trash can or a covered plastic container, and label it.
Rake your lawn to remove all leaves, dead grass, and small twigs. Sow seed for a new lawn, or fill in bare patches by first covering the area with compost or other organic matter. Roll the lawn if the ground isn't soggy.
If you receive mail-order nursery plants before your soil is dry enough for planting, make a trench and heel them into the ground in a protected area.
Don't fertilize strawberries in the spring. This is when the leaves are developing, and you'll get lush growth and meager, soft berries. Wait until blossoms appear and use a light hand.
Don't set tomato plants out in the garden too soon. They hate cold soil and cold nights (under 55 degrees F).
Don't forget to vent your cold frame. April days may feel chilly, but the temperature under the glass can get over 100 degrees F on a sunny day. Salad greens are unhappy over 65 degrees F, and most other plants will perish over 85 degrees F.

http://www.almanac.com

A Foolproof Flower Garden

2009-03-31T18:15:00.001-04:00

A Foolproof Flower Garden By Fran Sorin

Don't settle for potted pansies. With a little effort and patience, you can create your own backyard paradise.Maybe you've just moved from an apartment to your first house. Between family, work, carpooling and everything else -- has it been 12 trips to the Home Depot? -- your first garden awaits your imprint. Planting flowers is a great way to exercise your creativity, but it can seem daunting to the beginner. Don't despair: The investment of time and energy will repay you in spades. After more than 20 years of designing gardens, here's my insider's guide to getting started.
1. Know your property's relationship to the sun. If you have a true southern exposure, you'll get direct sun most of the afternoon. A northern exposure will give you mainly shade; eastern exposure, morning sun and afternoon shade; western exposure, pretty much late-afternoon sun, with shade the rest of the day.
2. Make sure the type of garden you want can be done with the amount of sun you get. For example, although most herb and cutting gardens need direct sunlight (six hours of sun a day), woodland gardens thrive in shade. If you have a shady lot and you want a cutting garden just like the one you saw in a magazine, forget it. Instead, try to re-interpret it by using shade perennials, bulbs and shrubs.
3. Choose a site for your flower bed that can be viewed from inside your house. If possible, take advantage of garden views from outdoor terraces or patios, too.
4. Let your garden reflect your personal style, just as your indoor space does. If you tend toward the traditional indoors, think in terms of a traditional garden with a formal, symmetrical outline, perhaps with pedestals of evergreens to add to the mood. If you lean toward a more rustic style, your outdoor space should reflect that informal feel: Let an abundance of flowers brim over the edges of the garden, and use some flea market finds as containers.
5. When you're ready to experiment with the placement of the flower bed, lay out a hose to outline its shape and size. (Or use spray landscape paint from a paint store.) Leave the hose in one position for a few days before deciding whether that configuration works. Geometric shapes generally indicate a formal design; irregular or island beds are more informal.
6. When the soil has warmed up and is not too soggy, you can dig the bed. First, remove the grass -- roots and all -- with a spade, or use an herbicide (like Round-Up) or an organic grass killer. Then rototill the area or turn it over with a fork. At least 12 inches of good organic matter should be laid on top of the existing soil. Once you've raked the organic matter evenly across the bed, edge the perimeter with a sharp spade to give it a professional, crisp finish.
7. The most effective gardens are simple ones that follow the adage "Less is more." Select plants of various shapes and textures that bloom at different times of the gardening season and that resist disease and drought. Limit your palette to two or three colors. I like to work with combinations of three plants to create a vignette.
8. Plant a lot of each specimen. The repetition of specimens and colors soothes the eye and paves the way for a more glorious design. I plant a minimum of seven of each specimen in a small garden bed, and up to 20-something of each in an expansive area.
9. Plant in a flowing or wavelike pattern. Play around with the plants while they are still in their pots, positioning them around your garden bed to see how they look before you actually plant them. Some of my greatest moments of inspiration occur when I make last-minute changes.
10. Spread mulch as soon as possible after planting (no more than 2 inches thick). Do it carefully, to avoid damaging the plants.
11. Until the plants are settled in (about two weeks), I water every third day early in the morning, 30 to 45 minutes at a time, with a soaker hose or a rotating sprinkler.
12. Over the remainder of the spring (in cool regions, into the early summer), fill in bare areas with exuberant summer bulbs or tubers such as dahlias, cannas, elephant ears, oxalis and colocasias, and annual plants or seeds that can be scratched right into your garden soil.
13. To give the plants extra "oomph," spray them with an organic fertilizer, such as fish fertilizer, once every four weeks, preferably first thing in the morning when it's cool -- never when the temperature is above 80 degrees.
14. Be patient. Plants won't fully mature for a good two to three years. Enjoy the process and keep notes on the plant combinations that give you great pleasure. I think you will be surprised how often you use them as you continue to create new gardens.
Three of my favorite plant trios-- Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian sage), Echinacea purpurea 'Magnus' (coneflower), Liatris spicata-- Salvia greggii 'Maraschino,' Alchemilla mollis (lady's mantle), Dahlia 'Bishop of Llandaff'-- Phlox divaricata 'Chattahoochee,' Tiarella cordifolia (foamflower), Dryopteris marginalis (leatherwood fern)

http://fransorin.com/index.asp Fran Sorin, she's a great source for gardening info.

Spring Pruning Guide

2009-03-25T08:19:00.000-04:00

Apple
Early spring
Prune moderately. Keep tree open with main branches well spaced. Avoid sharp V-shaped crotches.
Cherry
Early spring
Prune the most vigorous shoots moderately.
Clematis
Spring
Cut weak growth. Save as much old wood as possible.
Flowering dogwood
After flowering
Remove dead wood only.
Forsythia
After flowering
Remove old branches at ground. Trim new growth.
Lilac
After flowering
Remove diseased, scaly growth, flower heads, and suckers.
Peach
Early spring
Remove half of last year's growth. Keep tree headed low.
Plum
Early spring
Cut dead, diseased branches; trim rank growth moderately.
Rhododendron
After flowering
Prune judiciously. Snip branches from weak, leggy plants to induce growth from roots.
Rose (except climbers)
Spring, after frosts
Cut dead and weak growth; cut branches or canes to four or five eyes.
Rose (climbers)
After flowering
Cut half of old growth; retain new shoots for next year.
Rose of Sharon
When buds
Cut all winter-killed wood to swell begin growth back to live wood.
Trumpet vine
Early spring
Prune side branches severely to main stem.
Virginia creeper
Spring
Clip young plants freely. Thin old plants and remove dead growth.
Wisteria
Spring, summer
Cut new growth to spurs at axils of leaves.

From The Old Farmers's Almanac http://www.almanac.com/garden/trees/springprune.php

Preview all these Trees and Shurbs on your property with our easy to use landscape design software, Landscape Vision. www.landscapeyourvisions.com

Golden Hakone Grass By Yvonne Cinnington

2009-03-13T17:17:00.001-04:00

Golden Hakone Grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola')2009 Perennial Plant of the Year

One of my favorite plants, Golden Hakone Grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola') is the 2009 Perennial Plant of the Year.
In my garden I team this ornamental grass with gold-tinged 'Golden Tiara' hosta and purple-leaved oxalis, a non-hardy summer bulb plant.
This grouping at my side entry garden (shown below) looks lovely all season long.

This species of grass is native to Japan's main Island, Honshu, and gets its name from the region near Mt. Hakone. Chloa is the Greek word for grass.
How to growGolden Hakone Grass
Hardiness: USDA zones 5-9.
Size and growth habit: This grass grows 12 to 18 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, and its leaves fall attractively in one direction.
The bright yellow foliage is 1/2" wide with thin green stripes, and in the fall becomes tinged pink and red.
Golden hakone grass spreads by rhizomes and stolons, but grows so slowly that it does not becomes a rampant spreader. Slow growth means that you don't need to divide it for many years.
However, if you wish to divide to obtain more plants, as with other ornamental grasses, the best time to do this is in early spring just as new growth starts.
Light and soil conditions: This ornamental grass grows well in partial shade, especially in hot climates, but it can take more sun in cooler areas. Plant in moist, humus-rich, well-drained soil.
The Perennial Plant Association recommends not planting it in poorly drained soil, heavy clay or excessively dry and sandy soils. However, I've had several readers tell me they have it in moist clay areas, where it grows well.
In its native habitat, the growing conditions are wet, rocky cliffs, so this plant appears to be quite adaptable.
How the 2009 Perennial Plant of the Year was chosen
Each year the Perennial Plant Association selects a plant of the year.
The chosen perennial must be:
-Suitable for a wide range of climates
-Easy to grow (low maintenance care)
-Easy for growers to propagate (comes true from seed or vegetative propagation
-Attractive throughout the gardening season.
Golden Hakone Grass is the second ornamental grass to be chosen as a Perennial Plant of the Year. Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Foerster', feather reed grass, was chosen in 2001.
Maintenance: Golden Hakone grass is a shade tolerant grass and has few insect or disease problems. Even deer tend to leave it alone.
The only maintenance required is to cut the previous season's dead leaves back in fall, late winter or early spring.
This grass has shallow roots, and therefore is best divided in spring, like most grasses. If divided in fall, the divisions are prone to cold weather damage and frost heaving.
Garden uses: This perennial grass makes a great companion for hostas, especially hostas with gold variegation, or bluish leaves.
Other good matches with perennials include foam flower (Tiarella cultivars) and Heucheras, especially those with purple leaves, and purple leaved bugbane cultivars (Actaea, also known as Cimicifuga), such as 'Hillside Black Beauty' and 'Brunette'.
Golden Hakone Grass also looks great with astilbe, epimedium, wild ginger, bleeding heart and lady's mantle.
I've also grown it as a container plant and love the way it cascades over one side like a waterfall. My favorite way to use it in my garden beds is as an edger where its foliage can cascade onto a path.

http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/index.html

Outdoor Planting Table from Old Farmers Almanac

2009-03-11T13:49:00.000-04:00

Outdoor Planting Table for 2009

The best time to plant flowers and vegetables that bear crops above ground is during the light of the Moon; that is, from the day the Moon is new to the day it is full. Flowering bulbs and vegetables that bear crops below ground should be planted during the dark of the Moon; that is, from the day after it is full to the day before it is new again. The Moon Favorable column below gives these days, which are based on the Moon's phases for 2009 and the safe periods for planting in areas that receive frost. See the Moon Phase Calendar for the exact days of the new and full Moons.

To find the best time to plant for your area check out this link;
http://www.almanac.com/garden/plantingtable/index.php

The Old Farmers Almanac is a great source for gardening information, and it's fun.

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Spring Ahead...With garden design software today.

2009-03-07T13:51:00.003-05:00

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Grden Jobs for March The Old Farmers Almanac

2009-02-24T12:44:00.000-05:00

Re-pot houseplants so they will grow well during spring and summer.
Water gloxinias and African violets from the bottom, avoiding getting any water on the leaves. Dust the leaves with a small, soft brush.
Consider ordering a few blueberry plants. Not only will they provide delicious fruit for jams, muffins, and pies, but they are also an excellent choice for landscaping plants, offering scarlet fall foliage and creamy white spring flowers. Blueberries serve neatly in a hedge or as specimen plants.
When choosing fruit trees, remember that apple, apricot, and pear trees need two varieties present to ensure pollination. If space is limited, try peach, nectarine, or sour cherry, which will bear fruit on a single tree.
Garden work should begin when a lump of soil squeezed in the hand is dry enough to fall apart slowly.
Uncover bulb beds and hardy borders near the middle of the month.
Plant deciduous trees and shrubs this month.
Trim out the old canes from the rows of berry bushes. The bramble fruits are borne on new wood of last year's growth.
Prune fruit trees until spring buds swell. Maple and birch should not be pruned until they leaf out.
Sprinkle wood ashes around berries and fruit trees. The potash will enhance the sweetness of the fruit.
Remove mulches from snowdrops and crocuses so the shoots can come through.
Uncover mulched perennial and strawberry beds gradually, pressing into place any plants that have been heaved up.
Dig up over-wintered parsnips as soon as the soil is loose enough. They will not benefit from any additional time in the ground.
Set out pansies as soon as the ground is ready. They'll happily withstand cold weather and will bloom steadily if the spent blossoms are kept picked.
Remove the mulch from your perennial beds gradually. Take it off as the season progresses and add it to your compost pile.
If your compost pile has been frozen all winter, add some manure now and turn it frequently.
Check trellises, latticework, and fences for winter damage. Repair before spring growth begins.
Dormant spraying for fruit trees should be done before spring growth begins.
Resist the temptation to uncover spring-flowering plants such as daffodils and tulips. Mulch may be loosened, but the shoots will still benefit from protection against cold, drying winds.
Manure can be spread over the garden now, especially on the asparagus and rhubarb beds.
Be sure that flats and pots used for starting seed are perfectly clean. Likewise, the soil should be clean and sterile.
Mark and label your sown seeds, indoors and out.
Water newly started seedlings carefully. A pitcher may let the water out too forcefully. A mist sprayer is gentle but can take a long time. Try using a meat basting syringe, which will dispense the water effectively without causing too much soil disruption.
Give peas a chance. The earlier they mature, the sweeter they'll be. Sow them right under the snow, if necessary, but save some for a later planting as well.
Spread dark plastic intended for mulch out over the garden site to hasten the warming of the soil. This will provide for earlier and better germination.
Keep plastic milk jugs or other coverings on hand to protect the flowers of pansies, crocuses, and other early bloomers against the return of severe weather.
Start seedlings of annuals in flats -- aster, larkspur, alyssum, and balsam should be started now (or 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date in your area). If summer season is short, zinnias should be started now. They will need to be potted up in individual pots after 4 to 5 weeks.
Start some vegetables in flats now: Brussel sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, and lettuce are good choices.
Seed alpine strawberries now to make attractive and bountiful hanging baskets for summer.

http://www.almanac.com/garden/jobs/index.php?month=3

Spring is Coming

2009-02-08T22:18:00.001-05:00

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Beginner gardening tips By Yvonne Cunnington

2009-02-08T22:07:00.002-05:00

Your first season? Beginner gardening tips
"Help: I'm beginner gardening this season. I don't know where to start."

Before you sink your spade into your first garden bed: Relax! "It's just gardening, not rocket science," as one of my favorite gurus likes to say.
I remember my first spring poking around the yard of the older home we had just bought wondering what was coming up - it was 1991.
First came snowdrops and crocuses, followed by tulips and mysterious (to me) little blue flowers that turned out to be forget-me-nots.
That's right, when I started, I didn't know a forget-me-not from a fritillaria. My motivation for gardening was the need to turn a plain-Jane backyard into an inviting garden. I learned by digging in.
What made it easier for me was that I'd had plenty of practice in my mother's vegetable garden while growing up, so while I didn't know much about flower gardening at the time, I did know the basics of planting and weeding.

Beginner gardening - so where do you start?
If you're like most of us, you won't start with a plan. Even I had no grand plan, just raw enthusiasm.
In the first few years, I moved plants around so much that my husband joked that my perennials should have had wheels, not roots.
The fact is that most gardens evolve. It's difficult to draw up a plan on paper (as instructed by garden designers) when you can't tell a daisy from a dianthus.
Once you've learned a few horticultural ropes and have discovered what appeals to you, you'll have a better idea about how you would like your garden to look.
First things - you need some garden tools
So to get started in the garden, you're going to need a few tools. (Isn't the fun part of a new hobby shopping for gear?) The best-quality tools are often carried by specialist suppliers. Information about tools is here.
Start with annuals - easy plants for beginner gardening
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The great thing about annuals is that they're widely available and easy-to-grow. If you follow the simple basics about light, spacing, water and fertilizer, you'll have your first success. Find out how with these beginner gardener tips for growing annuals, and then learn more about other flower garden plants.
Improve your soil before you plant
Most plants thrive in moist, but well drained soil. Sounds contradictory, right? But it simply means soil that retains moisture and doesn't stay too wet. Ideal garden soil has the texture of crumbly chocolate cake and is easy to dig.
The way to improve almost any kind of soil - from sticky clay to porous sandy soil - is actually the same. You add hummus (composted manure, compost or leaf mould, or a combination of them). For more information, see Garden soil 101 - dealing with sand and clay.
If you have sandy soil, the hummus acts like a sponge to hold moisture. And if you have clay, it breaks up sticky particles to create larger pore spaces that drain more easily and help plant roots get the air they need. More information about fixing your soil is here.
Right plant, right place - light levels
Unless you live in a neighborhood dominated by huge shade trees, you will have areas of full sun, and perhaps some spots shaded by buildings (house, garage, shed) or trees.
Remember that most perennial flowers and roses do best in full sun. That means at least six hours of full sun. With only two to three hours of sunlight, sun-lovers will struggle, but plants that like part shade will do well. Usually, shade and part-shade plants will do best where they don't get hot afternoon sun.

Plant shopping can be overwhelming at first
Here are some plants to grow in lower light situations: astilbe, hosta, cranesbill (hardy perennial geraniums), bleeding heart, foxgloves, columbine, heuchera. More tips for shade gardening are here.
When you go to buy plants
Good garden centres group plants according to their sun and shade requirements. Trees and shrubs also have light preferences, so read the plant tags and do some research before deciding what to plant.
Check out more info from Yvonne Cunnington
http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/index.html

The Zen Of Seed Germinating Fran Sorin

2009-01-23T09:43:00.001-05:00

For us gardeners, the process of seed germination is quite magical. It starts for me each January, when my garden is covered with snow and working in the yard feels like a distant memory. My mailbox is deluged with seed catalogs, and I dreamily flip through about a dozen to see what's in store for me. Envisioning what the seeds from each packet will become, I see the colors, smell the scents and touch the leaves. I dog-ear pages with specimens that catch my eye. I feel extravagant as I begin to tally up the cost of all of my orders. But then I remind myself that the cost per plant is so minuscule that it would be criminal not to buy them.
Once the seeds arrive, the preparation begins. First, wash and sanitize all containers (a dab of bleach in soapy water does the trick). Separate the seed packets into piles based on the time needed to reach maturity, whether they are early or late sowers, and whether you plan to sow the seeds directly outside or get a head start by sowing indoors in early spring. (If you sow them indoors, then take them out to the garden as fledgling plants -- usually four to eight weeks later, after any chance of frost has passed -- the blooms will appear weeks or even months earlier.)
Annuals that are easily sown directly in the ground:
Basil, cosmos, cleome, hyacinth beans, larkspur, marigold, morning glory, nasturtium, pole beans, poppies, sunflowers, sweet alyssum, sweet pea, peas
Annuals to start indoors:
Calendula, celosia, cucumbers, eggplant, globe amaranth, marigolds, nicotiana, peppers, pumpkins, salvia, tithonia, tomatoes, zinnias, zucchini
Easy perennials to grow from seed:
Chrysanthemum, columbine, coneflower, foxglove, gaillardia, helenium, hollyhock, linaria, lysimachia, oriental poppies, salvia, Shasta daisy, verbascum
If you have a window with a true southern exposure, you can successfully germinate sun-loving seeds such as cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, cosmos and sunflowers. Just move the seeds away from the windows at night or put newspaper between the window and the seeds to ward off the cold. To maintain high humidity, either cover the container with a plastic bag or use the clear plastic domes sold with sowing flats.
You also can rig up a germinating room using fluorescent lights. A few years ago, I bought 12 fluorescent lighting fixtures, each 4 feet long. I attached them to 2-by-4-inch pieces of wood that are about 8 feet long and hung from chains; that way, the height of the lighting unit can be adjusted as the seeds turn into seedlings and, eventually, plants. This system gives the seeds the optimal 14 to 16 hours of light per day. Keep the lights 2 inches above the pre-germinated seeds, and when they become seedlings, raise the lights to 4 inches. I set up this system in my basement, but you can use any room in the house.
Buy a premade sowing medium. The package will be labeled "seed starting mix" and will be a composite of vermiculite, peat moss and perlite. Fill the containers to the top with sowing mix, tamp it down to compress the feather-like texture, and then add more sowing mix to bring it to the top again.
The number of seeds you plant in each container depends on their size. With large seeds such as sunflowers and sweet peas, I limit myself to three or four to a 2-by-2-inch container; with tiny poppy and nicotiana seeds, I allow up to 100 per pot. Simply press larger seeds into the soil until they're slightly covered; sprinkle smaller seeds on top of the soil. Then water the containers from the bottom and cover with a plastic dome or bag to conserve humidity.
At its essence, the Zen of germinating seeds is about taking delight in all of the rituals of selecting, ordering, preparing, planting, tending and then waiting. When all the seeds are sown, I pause and give thanks. It reminds me of when I used to tuck my children under the covers and feel that all was good and right in my world.
Soon I see that what was a dormant seed has nuzzled its way through the earth and sprouted into a green stem with two leaves ready to unfurl, and I'm filled with joy and awe. No matter how many years I do it, I always have an emotional response to this life-affirming process.

http://fransorin.com/book/ Check out Fran Sorin's book.

Buy Plants On-Line

2009-01-16T23:02:00.002-05:00

Experienced gardeners buy plants online or shop for garden gear by mail order for three reasons:
-Greater selection of mail order plants, seeds, bulbs and garden products.-The convenience of armchair shopping.-Garden plants and goods shipped right to your door.

Better selection is really the best reason to buy plants online. Many mail order companies concentrate on particular plants and offer you much more choice.
For example, an online rose specialist will offer scores of varieties and types of roses, while your local garden center can only afford to stock perhaps a dozen or so.
Few garden centers are big enough to stock a fraction of what's available, so web suppliers or mail order catalogues help you find plants and garden products that may difficult to find locally.
Other advantages of shopping online
Many garden suppliers and growers have now have excellent websites to help you buy plants online and find general garden merchandise too.
But when you buy plants online, how do you tell who's legit and who's trying to pawn off miserable scraps of greenery on unwary gardeners?
If the deal is too good to be true, remember the old saying: You get what you pay for. If you see strident headlines promoting sweepstakes, you've got to wonder what they're really selling.
Buy plants online -Gardening stores on the web
Gardens Alive: Offers a variety of environmentally responsible products for your garden and lawn, from sprays and fertilizers to garden gear. Ships to US addresses, including Alaska, but not Hawaii.
Gardener's Supply Company: Offers a wealth of tools and supplies for gardeners, from seed-starting to watering, fertilizing and weeding, even garden furniture and sheds. Good garden tips too. Ships to US only.
Roses from Jackson & Perkins: Discover unusual and new roses. Also offers perennials, bulbs and garden gifts. Ships roses and perennials at the best time for planting in your area. US only, including Alaska and Hawaii.
Smith & Hawken: Offers stylish quality in garden tools, outdoor accents, garden decor, furnishing, indoor gardening goods, house plants and gifts. US only.
Gurney's - Save $20 off $40 Order: Seeds, plants and growing supplies. Ships to US, but not Alaska, Hawaii.
Richters Herbs: This Canadian company offers an excellent variety of culinary and other herb plants and seeds. They ship around the world and pride themselves on delivering herb plants to your door safely. I've often ordered plants from them and have been happy with their healthy green condition, even after shipping. Ships to Canada and US. All plant shipments to US are government inspected and come with a phytosanitary certificate free-of-charge.
Before you hit the send button, check your order

Bare-root daylilyready for planting
Be sure to order early to avoid "sold out" notices. Because seeds and planting stock are produced at least a season in advance, quantities are often limited, so it pays to order early.
If you don't want substitutions, state this clearly on your order form. Many mail-order companies will substitute a similar item for a sold-out product. Usually there's a box to check if you prefer no substitutions.
Read and understand the company's guarantee policy. Most suppliers have a date by which you must a notify them about problems or plant failures to get your money back.
Read the fine print. When shopping or buying plants online, check the size of plants shipped. It's discouraging to pay top dollar for something that comes in a tiny pot.
Keep a record of orders and shipping dates. You don't want to order same tulip bulbs twice because you misplaced the original order.

By Yvonne Cunnington
To read more great tips and to check out Ms. Cunningtons book;
http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/index.html

Get a Jump on Spring!

2009-01-09T13:19:00.003-05:00

Hard to believe, but Spring is not that far away. You need to get ready. Landscape Vision can help.

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Growing Green By Melinda Myers

2009-01-05T23:54:00.002-05:00

Recycle your cut Christmas tree, greens and wreaths in the landscape. Use trees as shelter for birds or windbreaks for tender plants such as rhododendron and boxwood. Or remove the branches and spread them, wreaths and garland over bulb plantings and perennials for winter mulch.

Melinda Myers Bio

BIO
Melinda Myers, best known for her gardener friendly and practical approach to gardening, has more than 25 years of horticulture experience in both hands-on and instructional settings. She has a bachelor’s degree in horticulture from The Ohio State University and a master’s degree in horticulture from University of Wisconsin-Madison, is a certified arborist, and was a horticulture instructor with tenure at Milwaukee Area Technical College.
Outside the classroom, Melinda shares her expertise through a variety of media outlets. She has written 19 books, including Can’t Miss Small Space Gardening, the Birds & Blooms’ Ultimate Gardening Guide, and Jackson and Perkins’ Beautiful Roses Made Easy: Midwestern Edition.

She hosts “Great Lakes Gardener,” seen on PBS stations throughout the United States, and “Melinda’s Garden Moments”, which air on network television stations throughout the country. She also appears regularly as a guest expert on various national and local television and radio shows. She writes the twice monthly “Gardeners’ Questions” newspaper column and is a contributing editor and columnist for Birds & Blooms and Backyard Living magazines. Melinda has also written articles for Better Homes and Gardens and Fine Gardening magazines.

Additionally, she hosted “The Plant Doctor” radio program for over 20 years.
Melinda has written several other books, including My Wisconsin Garden: A Gardener’s Journal,
Month-by-Month Gardening in Wisconsin, Month-by-Month Gardening in the Prairielands, Minnesota Gardener’s Guide, The Minnesota Horticultural Society’s Month-by-Month Gardening in Minnesota, and The Perfect Lawn Midwest Series.

Her 13 years of experience at the University of Wisconsin Extension allowed Melinda to work with backyard, community, and master gardeners throughout Wisconsin. In addition, she began the Master Gardener Program in Milwaukee County. As Milwaukee’s Assistant City Forester, Melinda helped manage the city’s street trees, boulevards, and green spaces. She worked with the Young Adult Conservation Corps supervising crews that maintain University of Wisconsin Extension urban test gardens and provide trail repair and other conservation work. She serves as a horticulture consultant to numerous community and beautification groups.
For her work, community service and media presence, Melinda has received recognition and numerous awards, including the 2003 Garden Globe Award for radio talent and the Quill and Trowel Award for her television work, both from the Garden Writers Association. She has also received the Garden Communicator’s Award from the American Nursery and Landscape Association, the Gold Leaf Award for Arbor Day from the International Society of Arboriculture, the 2007 Perennial Plant Association Garden Media Award as well as the 2005 Honorary Life Membership Award from the Wisconsin Arborist Association.

For more information about gardening and Myers' books visit www.melindamyers.com.