Las Américas

Las Américas Update

2011-01-03T12:26:00.000-08:00

During our Las Américas Trip we got to visit great places, meet wonderful people and enjoy some wonderful wine and great food. Since we have driven the complete route Sharon has continued "the search for the perfect hot springs or spa and great wine and food from Las Américas" at Spaswinefood.

If you are interested in travel within Las Américas, or want to complete a similar overland trip as ours then the Las Américas blog has useful insights. However, if you are interested in exploring "The Wine Regions of Chile and Argentina" then Spaswinefood provides useful information.

The following Spaswinefood posts on the Chilean Wine Regions you should find helpful:

For the Argentinian Wine Regions see the posts on:

Happy wine travels!!

Sharon
Spaswinefood
January 2011

Ecuador: Visiting the Highlands

2010-11-06T15:04:00.000-07:00

There are so many places to visit in Ecuador but our journey took us along the highland route. Our stops included Ibarra, Quito (Miriam & Juan Franciso), Banos (Ambato - Monte Selva Hosteria) Banos (Cuenca – Dana Hosteria), Cuenca (camped at Yucayana Cabañas), Zamora (Copalinga Cabañas) and Macara (camped at an Ecuadorian Military camp).

We spent a wonderful week in Quito visiting with Miriam and Juan Francisco, Juan Pablo’s family. The whole family accepted us immediately. Ewok loved visiting, hanging out in the garden while Amadeus slept. Thanks for treating us so well!!!

We totally enjoyed our journey through Ecuador the following i-movie captures some images from our travels.

Sharon
Peru
November 2009

Columbia: Soon To Be Discovered

2010-11-03T10:58:00.000-07:00

After a short flight north from Panama City we arrived in Cartagena, Columbia. It took some time to clear customs and complete paperwork to bring Amadeus and Ewok into Columbia (we did “lots of paperwork” in Panama before leaving) then we were off to the old city for the next nine days. Cartagena is beautiful and so it was not hard to wait there for the SUV to arrive. During this time Amadeus hung out at the hotel mostly napping. Ewok however was a star around town – she was welcomed everywhere she went – restaurants, taxis. Folks took lots of photos of her!! Our only challenge in Cartegena was the high humidity of the tropical lowlands.

After reading The Lonely Planet section on how to travel safely in Columbia we were ready to venture onto the highways fully informed on how to best cope with all the “perils, dangers and annoyances” of numerous road checks, etc. To our surprise, at our first road check as we headed south, we were greeted by a friendly young man who was curious about us and he wanted to know if everything was o.k. As we traveled throughout Columbia we were pleasantly surprised by the friendliness of the police and the military. The beautiful cities, the expansive landscape, the food and the wonderful people equally impressed us. Columbia was a wonderful experience!!!

The following i-movie captures some of the images along our route from Cartagena to Pasto (just south of Cali, near the Ecuadorian border).

Sharon
Quito, Ecuador
October 27, 2009

Chile: An Amazing Country

2010-11-02T15:05:00.000-07:00

Our journey through Chile resulted in many crossings into Argentina then back into Chile and vice-versa; when we headed north we repeated the process -- each time doing all the paperwork (passports, car, pets). This i-movie however covers our visit to Valparaiso area in early February (to check out vehicle shipping options) and our return to Chile at the end of March.

On February 28, 2010 Central Chile was hit by 8.8 earthquake causing extensive damage around the Concepción area. When we returned to Chile at end of March we were amazed to see how quickly Ruta 5 was being repaired. We were equally amazed with Chilean people who were directly impacted by the quake. For example, in a small town called Retiro where many of the adobe style homes were totally destroyed by the quake, we saw a sign “Retiro pensa positivo”. While the overall damage in the Valparaiso and Santiago areas appeared to be minor everyone we spoke with reported that they felt the quake. We were happy to see again Martin, the owner’s dog at Camping Los Olivos, Laguna Verde.

The following i-movie captures some images from our travels through Central and Southern Chile.

Sharon
Santiago, Chile
April 13, 2010

Checking Out Spas in Antigua, Guatemala

2010-07-25T08:44:00.001-07:00

I have been coming to Guatemala since 1997. Originally in Antigua there were a few Spas doing primarily massages and some basic treatments, like facials. In these days I always thought of them a good value because they were so inexpensive (100-150 quetzales). With the arrival of day spas the number of spas in Antigua has grown to where there are now 10 or more spas. They are the Mayan Spa at two locations (Alameda Santa Lucia Norte) and Petite Mayan Spa (6a Avenida Norte) www.mayan-spa.com, Bella Spa (4Calle Oriente) www.salonbellaspa.net, Healing Hands (3a Avenida Norte), El Reposo Spa (1 Calle Poniente), Minoshka’s Spa (7a Avenida Norte & 5a Calle Poniente), Skin Deep (1a Avenida Sur), Casa Madeleine (Calle de Espírita Santo) www.casamadeleine.com, Hotel Healthy (Body & Face Medical Spa) (Carr. a Cd. Vieja km. 1.5) and Reginadawn Spa Bed & Breakfast (5a Avenida Sur). While these spas now offer a greater variety of treatments the overall level of service is still basic or inconsistent at most. Maybe the downturn in the economy coupled with the need to keep the price at a level to attract costumers has not helped. Typically a 60-minute massage ranges from 150-300 quetzales (at today’s rate of 8.2 quetzales for $1US) Antigua prices for massages are excellent.

Mayan Spa

Very few of the spas in Antigua are stand-alone spas in fact many are actually beauty parlors with some spa service. This unfortunately often results in some of the employees being cross-trained on everything from hair styling to massage therapy. The result is your day at the spa may result in a person with long nails giving you a massage. From a spa users point of view this is scary! In the past I have tried Bella Spa (it has now down sized and moved to a new location), Mayan Spa at both locations, Skin Deep. During my most recent visit I had 60-minute massage at Minoshka’s Spa (200 quetzales), Reginadawn’s Spa (200 quetzales) and a private massage therapist (300 quetzales). Both Reginadawn and the private therapist were good however Minoshka’s was excellent. My husband also had a 60-minute massage with a different therapist and he also felt that the massage at Minoshka’s was excellent. Overall, we both felt that their staff was better trained compared to our prior spa experiences in Antigua.

Reginadawn's Spa

There are some online sources that you can use to check out spas in Antigua. One excellent source is www.tripadvisor.com that posts spa reviews. Two excellent local online magazines in English are the Revue www.revuemag.com and Que Pasa grupoquepasa.com. In addition, the website www.antiguaselect.com posts ads for spa services in Antigua.

Also for information on Antigua's more elegant spas see spaswinefood. You will find the following spaswinefood posts useful:

Availability of Wines in Antigua is Good

2010-07-24T12:02:00.000-07:00

If you are not ready to give Guatemala’s first winery, Chateau DeFay www.chateaudefayvineyards.com a try then you should know that you can purchase good wine in Guatemala. Chilean wines makeup 60% of wines sales, with Argentinean and Californian wines being the next most popular wines, according to 2009 statistics www.CentralAmericaData.com . The same source notes that 45% of sales are at supermarkets, 30% at restaurants, 15% at liquor distributors and 10% at wine stores.

Calle del Arco

One of the best places to enjoy wine in Guatemala is Antigua. In Antigua, you might want to start on Calle del Arco (5 Avenida Norte) where there are two wines shops, Almacen Troccoli and Tobacos y Vinos.

Almacen Troccoli

Tobacos y Vinos

Almacen Troccoli, which use to be a paint shop, later a paint shop and liquor store combo is now offering a good selection of liquor and wine. El Sabor del Tiempo Restaurant is adjacent to Almacen Troccoli. The other shop selling wine is Tobacos y Vinos. Sangre also on Calle del Arco is a restaurant offering wine tastings. In addition, throughout Antigua other than dropping by La Bodega Supermarket there are a number of specialty shops and many restaurants offering a good selection of wines (see www.revuemag.com and grupoquepasa.com for further suggestions).

Guatemala’s First Winery: Chateau DeFay

2010-07-08T09:12:00.000-07:00

During our most recent trip to Guatemala I was doing some research on wines when I happened to discover a website for Guatemala’s first winery, Chateau DeFay. We just had to visit and so we did. We followed the directions on their website www.chateaudefayvineyards.com. Upon arriving in Santa Maria de Jesus we discovered that the road to Palin was badly damaged by tropical storm, Agatha. Before hearing this warning we had seen a painted sign on a rock Chateau DeFay 6km – so we thought what’s the problem it is only 6km away on ripio (gravel road) and we have a 4X4. So off we went – after a slow drive where we saw more painted signs at 5km, 3km etc. and finally we arrived at the entrance to Chateau DeFay.

We received a wonderful welcome by the owner, Jacques Defay and were treated to wine tasting. We were pleased to see and hear about the progress of a young winery. Establishing a winery in Guatemala is commendable given all the unique challenges.

Chateau DeFay has a pleasant dinning room where we enjoyed lunch. After the drive from Antigua we were most happy to be able to have lunch in such an awesome setting. If you get the chance it is worth a visit.

Sharon
Antigua, Guatemala
July 8, 2010

Buenos Aires: Una Ciudad Linda, Linda !!!!

2010-05-07T07:35:00.001-07:00

Buenos Aires was our final destination. In fact originally we thought we might not visit – it is, after all, a big city. However, in the end we came to the conclusion we could not leave Argentina without spending some time in Buenos Aires. When we did visit we discovered it is in fact a very big city – but it is also a very interesting city. Prior to arriving we located on-line pet-friendly Atenea Suites on Cabrera in Palermo Hollywood. Our original plans were to spend 9 days in Buenos Aires but this grew into 4 weeks due to the change in estimated arrival date for our SUV in Houston.

The typical thing to do when you visit Buenos Aires is to do the touristy stuff -- we did some of that (San Telmo, Recoleta Cementary, Peurto Madero, etc.). Overall, we just took our time to explore the city and did lots of walks in our neighborhood. The more we explored the more we found. Shortly after arriving we discovered that Palermo Viejo was in walking distance. Then walking back one day we discovered Goritti had lots of restaurants -- another day coming back in the cab -- we noticed the Fitz Roy and Honduras area and began to explore it. Later taking a slightly different route to Fitz Roy we discovered the Fin Del Mundo Bodega. My overall recommendation is instead of following travel guides like Lonely Planet find yourself a good neighborhood in Buenos Aires – explore it and you are most likely to discover lots!!!

We will miss the wonderful Argentine wines, freshly prepared food, the charm of the side-walk cafes, the bakery where Juancho (Amadeus’s copy cat) lives, weekend markets, neighborhood stores, seeing the “paseadores de perros” walking 6-8 dogs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaOpzevtvtc and much more. We are saddened to leave Argentina but, we must head back up north; reset ourselves into the North American climatic pattern again (it is fall here-spring there -- go south (it gets colder-here) versus go north (it gets colder-there). It is time to see friends and family.

Sharon & Jack
May 10, 2010
Buenos Aires, Argentina

Chile Part II

2010-04-19T07:13:00.000-07:00

Chile II:

After the Earthquake:

(22 March – 13 April 2010)

Our border crossing into Chile was interesting. While we tried to cross on 20 March, we were denied entry by the agricultural inspector who wanted more health papers on Amadeus. When we returned on 22 March a different agriculture inspector was not even interested. In any event we crossed into Chile without problems and stayed in Pucón, a small town at the base of Volcán Villarica and along the shore of Lago Villarica (Figures 1 to 3).

Figure 1. Pucón with Volcán Villaricva in the background.

Figure 2. Volcán Villarica from Pucón, the volcano is active.

Figure 3. Pucon also lies along the shore of Lago Villarica.

Pucón is a relatively famous area for fishing and skiing. While I did not fish because the weather was poor, we did visit the ski area on the slopes of Volcán Villarica (Figures 4 to 6).

Figure 4. The ski resort at Pucón.

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Figure 5. The lodge at the ski Resort at Pucón

Figure 6. In the off season people climb Volcán Villarica (see the dots).

After two days of bad weather (a lot of rain), we drive on to Ruta 5 (the Panamerican Highway). We drive through a lot of areas that were affected by the 8.8 earthquake that struck Chile on the 28th of February. There were bridges down, houses in ruins, and buildings damaged. To the credit of the Chilean people, by mid-March, much of the damaged had been cleaned-up and repairs were in progress. We took only a few photos (Figures 7 to 9).

Figure 7. Damage to buildings in the small town of Peralillo in the Colchagua Valley.

Figure 8. Earthquake damage to the church in Santa Cruz.

Figure 9. Earthquake damage in Santa Cruz.

We drove west to the famous surfing town of Pichilemu on the coast. There was very little earthquake damage in this town. The beaches look much like those in California (Figure 10 & 11). There were only a few surfers in the water (Figure 12). The sea birds were spectacular (Figures 13 & 14).

Figure 10. The beach at Pichilemu.

Figure 11. The surf at Punta Lobos, Pichilemu.

Figure 12. Surfers inb the water at Punta Lobos, Pichilemu.

Figure 13. Peruvian pelicans at Punta Lobos, Pichilemu.

Figure 14. Pelicans, cormorants, gulls, and boobies can vbe seen on this rock off Punta Lobos, Pichilemu.

We drove on to the Colbún Reservoir just east of Talca and Ruta 5. We camped at a “closed” campground (Figures 15 & 16).

Figure 15. Sharon at our camp at Embalme Colbún.

Figure 16. Embalme Colbún in a Chaparral habitat.

We drove further east to Reserva Nacional Alto Lircay. It is a large stand of cöigue (Nothofagus dombeyi) and roble (N. macrocarpa), (Figures 17 & 18). We had the park all to ourselves (Figure 19). We stayed 3 nights and did a lot of hiking (Figures 20 to 23). We saw a variety of wildlife or their sign (Figures 24 to 27)

Figure 17. Cöigue in Reserva Nacional Alto Lircay.

Figure 18. Roble in Reserva Nacional Alto Lircay.

Figure 19. Our camp in Alto Lircay.

Figure 20. Hiking the trails in Reserva Nacional Alto Lircay.

Figure 21. View across Valle Venado in RN Alto Lircay.

Figure 22. View of the ridge above camp in RN Alto Lircay.

Figure 23. Cöigue forest in RN Alto Lircay.

Figure 24. Unidentified hawk in RN Alto Lircay.

Figure 25. White-throated treeclimber in RN lto Lircay.

Figure 26. An interesting fungus in RN Alto Lircay.

Figure 27. Degu (Octodon sp.) burrows in RN Alto Lircay.

Figure 28. Fox scat with berries in RN Alto Lircay.

After three nights we drove north toward Santiiago. We found a Boy Scout Jamboree camp (Parque Picarquin) that allowed us to camp for the night. The park was almost deserted. We stayed only one night, but the area is interesting (Figures 29 to 32). In the Southern Hemisphere things are reversed from up north (Figure 33 & 34).

Figure 29. Fixing dinner at Picarquin Dinner.

Figure 30. Puff ball on the lawn at Picarquin.

Figure 31. Another mushroom at Picarquin.

Figure 32. The moon is full at our Picarquin camp.

Figure 33. North facing slope.

Figure 34. South facing slope.

We went on north and east of Santiago to the valley of the Rio Maipo (Figures 35 & 36) where we camp for two nights.

Figure 35. Our camp at Cascadas de Animas on the Rio Maipo.

Figure 36. The Rio Maipo is famous for its white water rafting.

We drive to Viña del Mar to stay while we wait to ship our car. We visit Valparaiso (Figures 37 to 41). While here we drive east over the hill to the wine region of the Casablanca Valley (Figures 42 to 44).

Figure 37. The harbor at Valparaiso from Restaurant Turri on the hill.

Figure 38. The Bohemian area of Valparaiso where many artists try to make it.

Figure 39. Another artist shows her work.

Figure 40. We take the funicular to climb the hills of Valparaiso.

Figure 41. Of course lunch at Restaurant Turri includes wine.

Figure 42. Vineyards in Casablanca Valley from Viña Indomita.

Figure 43. Lunch at Viña Indomita, I have pulpo (octopus).

Figure 44. Sharon tastes a nice Pinot Noir at Vina Indomita.

After we leave the car in Valparaiso (it is now two weeks late in shipping), we go on to Santiago (Figures 45 to 48).

Figure 45. Outside our hotel in the Providencia region of Santiago.

Figure 46. Santiago is quite modern with many skyscrapers.

Figure 47. Another skyscraper.

Figure 48. Windows need to be washed.

Again, Chile was a pleasant country to visit. We only hope the car gets to Houston on time.

Halfway Around the World: The Journey of a Cat Called Amadeus and a Dog Called Ewok from Deadhorse Alaska to Ushuaia, Argentina

2010-04-16T13:42:00.000-07:00

We have usually traveled with our pets (Amadeus & Ewok) and so when we decided to do the Las Américas Trip we knew they would do the trip with us. Amadeus and Ewok had traveled internationally before (Canada, Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras) so we were aware there would be challenges such as border crossings, finding pet friendly accommodations and changing climatic conditions. We also worried about the fact that they were both 15 years old. We arrived in Deadhorse, Alaska just in time for the Summer Solstice, June 21, 2009 and then headed south through Canada, United States, Mexico, Central and South America. We completed our Deadhorse, Alaska to Ushuaia, Tierra Del Fuego, Argentina Journey on January 6th, 2010 (just after the Summer Solstice in the Southern Hemisphere).

After we reached Ushuaia we returned to Punta Arenas, Chile for 6 days to receive cancer treatment for Ewok from caring Dr. Tatiana Lopez. We returned to Bariloche, Argentina where our beloved Ewok died on January 18th. Amadeus, John and I miss her. She was a very special dog. Just showing her photo on my i-phone got us at a hotel room at many places that would not normally accept dogs.

We shipped our SUV from Valparaiso, Chile early April. Our plans are to stay in South America until May 10, 2010. Amadeus flew on LAN Chile from Santiago to Buenos Aires on April 13th and later will fly to the US on Continental Airlines. His summer travel plans include British Columbia and Guatemala.

This i-movie covers the journey of “a cat called Amadeus” and “a dog called Ewok” from Deadhorse Alaska to Ushuaia, Argentina.

Sharon,
Santiago, Chile
April 13, 2010

Argentina Part V

2010-04-03T14:27:00.001-07:00

Argentina Part V:

A Return to the Lake Region:

(1 to 22 March 2010)

After leaving Córdoba, we drive a short distance to La Cumbre in the Central Sierra. La Cumbre is a small town where we camped for two nights (Figure 1). The second night we had a rain storm that lasted all night, thus the extra tarp over the tent. However, the rain did bring out the birds (Figures 2 to 5).

Figure 1. Camp at La Cumbre.

Figure 2. Unidentified falcon at La Cumbre.

Figure 3. Field Flicker at La Cumbre, it is one the largest flickers I have ever seen.

Figure 4. Great Pampa Finch at La Cumbre.

Figure 5. Spot-winged Pigeon at La Cumbre.

La Cumbre is also a major paragliding area. The World Championships were held here in 2003. While we were at the cliffs there were several paragliders (Figures 6 & 7). The view from the cliffs overlooks a large cut of Pampas (Figure 8).

Figure 6. Paragliders at La Cumbre, one is a passenger. The other is the "pilot".

Figure 7. Paraglider just getting started.

Figure 8. View of the Pampa from near La Cumbre.

We leave La Cumbre, but do not get very far. We stop for two nights in the ACA (Automovil Club de Argentina) Campground at Villa Carlos Paz. The bird life is fantastic (Figures 9 to 14).

Figure 9. Green-barred Woodpecker in campground.

Figure 10. Shiny cowbird at camp.

Figure 11. Brown Cacholote in camp.

Figure 12. Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper.

Figure 13. Monk Parakeet.

Figure 14. Monk Parakeets in nest, they are colonial with up to 50 living in one nest.

We take Ruta 35 south through the province of La Pampa (Figure 15). The region is mostly grasslands, pampas (Figures 16 to 18), but there are a few animals to be seen (Figures 19 to 21).

Figure 15. Ruta 35 traverses most of the province of La Pampa.

Figure 16. Grasslands in La Pampa.

Figure 17. Pampas grass in the pampas.

Figure 18. Ruta 152 goes west through the pampas. The road is lined with mustard.

Figure 19. Back end of an armadillo in the pampas.

Figure 20. Birds of prey are common, but seldom sit still for a photo.

Figure 21. White-faced tree ducks in a roadside pool.

We head west on Ruta 152 which passes the small national park, Parque Nacional Lihué Calel (Figure 22). This a small area of desert scrub in the midst of the pampas. There are interesting plants (Figures 23 to 27) and animals (Figures 28 & 29). This trail leads to a set of rock paintings (Figures 30 to 32).

Figure 22. Entrance to Parque Nacional Lihué Calel.

Figure 23. One of many cactus in the park.

Figure 24. A prickly pear cactus that looks much like the ones we have.

Figure 25. A cactus in flower.

Figure 26. Lichens on granite.

Figure 27. Vegetation along a permanent stream.

Figure 28. Patagonian grey fox.

Figure 29. Male guanaco keeping watch over his harem.

Figure 30. Pinturas (rock paintings) by indigenous people of the area.

Figure 31. Some pinturas are abstract designs.

Figure 32. Other pinturas are of various animals, like this fox.

We finally approach the Lake Region on Ruta 40.and the base of the Andes (Figure 33). We stay for several days in a campground at Villa La Angostura on the north side of Lago Nahuel Huapi (Figure 34). At camp we adopt a young chimango caracara, who begs food from us every morning and evening (Figure 35).

Figure 33. A mountain caracara induicates we are approaching the Andes.

Figure 34. Camp at La Angostura.

Figure 35. Chimango caracara we nickname Chimi.

While in La Angostura, we take a boat trip to the Parque Nacional Arrayanes which is on a peninsula of Lago Nahuel Huapi (Figures 36 & 37). The park is named for its stand of arrayanes (Luma apiculata) trees. This is one of the few areas where there is a large stand of the trees (Figures 38 & 39). There is also a nice forest of southern beech (Nothofagus dombeyi) (Figure 40).

Figure 36. Sharon on the catamaran to PN Arrayanes.

Figure 37. Shoreline along the peninsula.

Figure 38. Arrayanes trees, notice the unusual bark.

Figure 39. Close up of trunk of an arrayan tree.

Figure 40. Southern beech is the dominant tree in this forest.

We leave via Ruta 234 which is a dirt road that is also called “El Camino de Siete Lagos” (Road of the Seven Lakes). Obviously, it passes by seven lakes, this is one of them (Figure 41). We camp at Lago Falkner (Figures 42 & 43).

Figure 41. Lago Falkner is one of seven lakes we pass.

Figure 42. Sharon studies our route while camped at Lago Falkner.

Figure 43. The mountains above Lago Falkner and our camp.

The small village of San Martin de los Andes lies at the northern end of “El Camino de Siete Lagos” (Figure 44). We stay in a nice complex above the town (Figure 45). The town is famous for its world class ski resort at Chapelco (Figure 46) and for fishing Figure 47 & 48).

Figure 44. The main street in San Martin.

Figure 45. View from our cabin at Villa Pirén above San Martin.

Figure 46. Chapelco Ski Resort a few kilometers south of San Martin.

Figure 47. View of Lago Lacar a favorite fishing lake in the area.

Figure 48. Fly fishing on Rio Malleo.

After a week in San Martin, we head for the Chilean border. We get to see some nice wildlife and scenery on the way (Figures 49 to 55).

Figure 49. Patagonia red fox along Ruta 60 heading to the Chilean border.

Figure 50. A flock of austral parakeets flies overhead on Ruta 60.

Figure 51. Araucaria forest in Parque Nacional Lanin.

Figure 52. Volcan Lanin covered in clouds.

Figure 53. Volcan Lanin seen from Ruta 40 as in Argentina Part III.

Figure 54. Rainbow below Volcan Lanin.

Figure 55. Guacho, horse, and dog on Ruta 60.

We try to cross into Chile at Paso Mamuil Mala (Paso Tromen). The Chilean Agricultural Inspector would not allow us to go into Chile with Amadeus. He said we need more health documentation. We have used the same docs for the past six entries into Chile. This is a very small dirt road crossing, and, I guess the inspector wanted to show he was "in charge". We had no choice but to return to San Martin and get a veterinarian to issue new docs. Now we have to wait until Monday to get the Agricultural agency for Argentina to give us another health document. This has cost us two days travel time, and two night’s hotel. Two days later we cross into Chile (Figure 56). When we did return with the proper documentation, another inspector was not very interested in the paperwork. He just laughed when we told him what the other inspector said.

Figure 56. Crossing into Chile.

Thus, we end our motor trip in Argentina. We were in country for over three and a half months, and recorded over 12,000 miles (19,200 km) in country. This has been an amazing part of our trip. We will return to Buenos Aires after we ship our car from Valparaiso, Chile.

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Argentina Part IV

2010-03-17T06:00:00.000-07:00

Argentina Part IV:

The Northwest and Surrealistic Landscapes:

(1 to 28 February 2010)

Our saga continues with a trip into Chile looking for a shipping company to take our Mercedes back to the USA, followed by a survey of the Argentine northwest.

After discussing things with Gary and Karla, we decide that in order to spend more time in Argentina we should ship our cars back to the United States. We pick Chile as the most logical place to book the ship. We take a one week trip to the port of Valparaiso to look for shipping companies. Our drive takes us back to the Pan-American Highway (Ruta 7) through the Paso de la Cumbre. The road passes Cerro Aconcagua (in Argentina), the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere (Figures 1). The pass goes by the ski resort at Los Penitentes in Argentina (Figure 2). This is the major crossing from Argentina into Chile (Figure 3). It is a relatively gentle slope on the Argentine side (Figure 4), while the Chilean side is quite steep (Figure 5). On 3 February we camp just downhill from the summit (Figure 6).

Figure 1. Cerro Aconcagua (snow capped in background) on Argentina Ruta 7.

Figure 2. The Ski Resort of Los Penitentes at 2580 m on Ruta 7.

Figure 3. Paso de la Cumbre from Argentina to Chile.

Figure 4. Paso de la Cumbre on Ruta 7 Argentina.

Figure 5. Paso de la Cumbre on the Chilean side, you can count 11 of the 31 switchbacks.

Figure 6. Our camp just below the summit at Paso de la Cumbre.

We drive past Santiago to the port of Valparaiso (Figure 7). We find two relatively helpful shipping agents/companies. One is a shipping broker, the Bloom Group. The other is a shipping company, Seaboard Marine. Both give us relatively equal shipping quotes.

Figure 7. The port Valparaiso on 3 February 2010.

We stay in the area for several days at a nice campground just south of Valparaiso in Laguna Verde (Figure 8 to 10).

Figure 8. The small town of Laguna Verde south of Valparaiso.

Figure 9. Our camp at Camping Los Olivos in Laguna Verde.

Figure 10. The bay at Laguna Verde.

After we make arrangements to ship the cars, we take a an extra day at Parque National La Compana (Figure 11 to 14). This is one of the places where Charles Darwin visited in 1835.

Figure 11. Parque Nacional La Compana noted for its stands of Chilean Palms.

Figure 12. We have a good dinner at camp in La Compana.

Figure 13. We come all this way to see California Valley quail.

Figure 14. We see several small rodents known as degus (Octodon degus).

We return to Argentina 9 February 2010, and drive north past San Juan to Parque Provincial Ischigualasto (Figure 15). The scenery here, and in all of northwestern Argentina is incredible. It reminds me of many of the areas in the western US, but it is much more extensive. In Ischigualasto we get our first taste (Figures 16 to

Figure 15. Ischigualasto begins our entry into the surrealistic world of northwest Argentina.

Figure 16. The Gusano (worm) in Ischigualasto.

Figure 17. Conning towers of the Submarine.

Figure 18. Valle Pintado (painted valley).

Once again we are on Ruta 40 that traverses Argentina, north to south, for over 5000 km (Figure 19). We pass many roadside shrines along the way. Some are for the martyred Gauchito Antonio Gil (Figure 20) who was the Robin Hood of Argentina in the mid 1800’s. Another is for Deolinda (Difunta) Correa (Figure 21) who died in the desert while nursing her baby. The baby survived, and now people live bottles of water in the shrines in her honor. These can be found on every road throughout Argentina.

Figure 19.Ruta 40 in Catamarca Province.

Figure 20. Shrine to Gauchito Antonio Gil.

Figure 21. Shrine to Difunta Correa.

We drive north on Ruta 40 through the small town of Belen. The scenery, again, is fantastic (Figures 22 to 24). When we reach Cafate, we stop for several days to taste the wines of the region (see Blog: Argentina Part III). Cafayate is getting ready for the wine festival. Some local artists prepare a mural of the event (Figures 26 & 27). At the same time, the indigenous peoples, Kallchaki, hold their own festival (Figures 28 & 29).

Figure 22. Landscape on Ruta 40 north of Belen.

Figure 23. Cactus flower along Ruta 40.

Figure 24. Burrowing parrots along Ruta 40.

Figure 25. Ruta 40 north of Belen.

Figure 26. Cafayate local people prepare a Mural for the wine festival.

Figure 27. A local helps prepare the Mural.

Figure 28. The People of Comunidad Kallchaki hold a festival.

Figure 29. Colorful costum of the Kallchaki.

Just north of Cafayate, on Ruta 68, is a beautiful canyon, Quebrada de Cafayate on the Rio Conchas. We take an afternoon to view the sights (Figures 30 to 35).

Figure 30. Rock formation along the Rio Conchas.

Figure 31. Rock formation called El Sapo (the toad).

Figure 32. Narrow canyon of the Amphitheater.

Figure 33. Rock layers of the Amphitheater.

Figure 34. Sandstone cliffs with burrows of the burrowing parrot.

Figure 35. Look close a burrowing parrot.

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We continue north of Caffayate on Ruta 40 through some spectacular landscapes (Figures 36 to 38).

Figure 36. Landscape north of Cafayte on Ruta 40.

Figure 37. Another scene north of Cafayate on Ruta 40.

Figure 38. Kilometer 4400 on Ruta 40.

Along the way we see a variety of adobe structures (Figures 39 to 41).

Figure 39. Adobe house with hornero (outdoor oven) to bake bread.

Figure 40. The adobe may look abandoned but it isn't.

Figure 41. This adobe has been transformed into a hosteria (hotel).

In the small town of Seclantás, we watch a man weave a rug (Figure 42). We buy one of his works.

Figure 42. Weaver making a rug out of sheep wool in Seclantis.

On our way to Salta, we pass through Parque Nacional Los Cardones. The park name comes from the large cardone cactus that is prominent (Figure 43 & 44). We miss the big bloom of some flowers by a week or so (Figure 45). Other flowers are more prevalent (Figures 46 to 48). On our way down from the high elevation of Parque Nacional Los Cardones (over 3200 m), we do see some other wildlife (Figure 49 & 50).

Figure 43. Parque Nacional Los Cardones.

Figure 44. Sharon next to a Cardone.

Figure 45. Yellow lily in Los Cardones.

Figure 46. Another yellow flower.

Figure 47. This flower looks like a poppy of some kind.

Figure 48. Another flower, I need a botanist along on this trip (Rod you should have come with us).

Figure 49. Black breasted Buzzard Eagle.

Figure 50. Andean flicker.

We finally reach the city of Salta where we stay for several nights. We take in a Peña (Folklore or Gaucho Show) in one of the tourist spots (Figures 51 & 52).

Figure 51. Peña at La Estacion in Salta.

Figure 52. Peña with folksingers and gaucho dancers.

We decide to drive north to see the Puna (high grassland) in the northern-most parts of Argentina. The Puna is much more extensive in Peru, Bolivia and northern Chile. We drive to Ruta 52, then head west toward the Chilean border. We pass through a large salina (salt flat) called Salinas Grandes (Figure 53 & 54). Ruta 52 goes through some spectacular scenery (Figures 55 to 58). Ruta 52 crosses Ruta 40 at an elevation of 3400m (Figure 59).

Figure 53. Sharon and Mercede on Salinas Grandes.

Figure 54. Salinas Grandes extends for many kilometers in all Cardinal directions.

Figure 55. Ruta 52 goes over a pass, at 4170 m, before Salina Grandes.

Figure 56. Ruta 52 climbs the eastern slope of the Andes.

Figure 57. Puna along Ruta 52.

Figure 58. Puna hillside along Ruta 52.

Figure 59. Ruta 40 where it meets Ruta 52 in Jujuy Province.

The road also allows us to see some interesting animals and plants (Figures 60 to 67).

Figure 60. A lesser rhea in the Puna.

Figure 61. After a rain, I find a toad hopping around in the Puna.

Figure 62. Vicuña in the Puna.

Figure 63. Domesticated llama are common in the northern Andes.

Figure 64. A white Andean flamingo, it must not be eating the right stuff.

Figure 65. A cactus on the Puna.

Figure 66. Another cactus on the Puna.

Figure 67. Bunch grass cropped by vicuña in the Puna.

On our way back to Salta, we stop in the small town of Purmamarca. It is known for its beautifully colored hills (Figures 68 to 70).

Figure 68. Cerro de los Siete Colores (Hill of Seven Colors) at Purmamarca.

Figure 69. Another view Cerro de los Siete Colores at Purmamarca.

Figure 70. More Cerro de los Siete Colores at Purmamarca.

On 21 February, in Purmamarca, we say our goodbyes to Gary and Karla. They are going to spend another two months before shipping, and plan to visit eastern Argentina (hot, humid) and Iguaçu Falls. We want to head south through Córdoba and back to the Lake District before going into Chile.

Figure 71. The Las Americas Team on our last night together.

We drive south to spend a few nights in Salta, then head southeast toward Córdoba. We spend the rest of February in Córdoba. We have just heard about the devastating 8.8 earthquake that hit Chile. Our hearts go out to the people of Chile.

Again, I am surprised at the size and diversity of Argentina. There will have to be a Part V before we leave.

Argentina Part III

2010-03-14T07:38:00.000-07:00

Argentina Part III:

Wine Tasting:

(Various in January and February 2010)

Our first visit to viñas (bodegas) in Argentina was with the organic vineyard in San Rafael noted in my last log. However, in January and February we had the occasion to visit several wineries in the Merndoza, San Juan, and Salta Provinces. In general, the wines are quite good, and would measure up to any in California. In fact, they would do quite well against and wines in the world.

Our first major tour was in the Province of San Juan where Sharon and I hired a taxi to take us to several local bodegas. First we visited a “Champaign” bodega just west of the city of San Juan (Figures 1 & 2). This sparkling wine bodega is considered one of the best in San Juan. Maybe, but my thoughts are that it would have a hard time competing with even the most modest sparkling wine in California. Do not get me wrong, it is not bad. It is just not all that good. They also make some reds (Figure 3). However, we were not allowed to taste any. I bought a bottle of Merlot anyway. None of us liked the Merlot they produced. In fact, we threw it out after a single taste.

Figure 1. Bodega Cavas de Zonada, a sparkling wine bodega.

Figure 2. The bodega is located in an old tunnel that was created in 1928.

Figure 3. This bodega also makes some reds.

The next winery was Bodega Graffigna (Figure 4). The reds they produce are quite good (Figure 5). They claim to age their premium wines for 12 months in either French or American (Figures 6 & 7). We do buy several bottles of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (Figure 8).

Figure 4. Bodega Graffigna in San Juan, Argentina.

Figure 5. Here I tried several of the red wines produced by Bodega Graffigna.

Figure 6. French oak barrel used to age wines at Bodega Graffigna.

Figure 7. American oak barrel used to age wines at Bodega Graffigna.

Figure 8. Sharon buying several bottles of red at Bodega Graffigna.

Our final bodega was a very small winery that produces only a few thousand liters of each variety a year (Figure 9) for export. However, they produce some vino patero for local consumption (Figure 10). The vino patero is not a particularly good red wine. It comes in 5 liter bottles. They allow us to taste four different red wines and two white, which I decline; Sharon does not (Figure 11). This was our first taste of a different variety, Bonarda (Figure 12). According to the young women, Bonarda is unique to Argentina. It is a very smooth, fruity wine. Later we try other Bonardas from a number of bodegas.

Figure 9. Bodega La Guarda.

Figure 10. Vino Patero produced by Bodega La Guarda.

Figure 11. Sharon tries all the wines at Bodega La Guarda.

Figure 12. I examine a bottle of Bonarda at Bodega La Guarda.

We drive north to the small town of Cafayate which is relatively well known for its red wines in the souther part of Valles Calchaquíes. Gary, Karla, Sharon, and I visit a number of wineries in the area. Our first was Bodega Etchart (Figure 13 & 14). They produce several very good wines including a sweet, desert, late harvest Torrontes (Figure 15). Torrontes, a very dry white wine, is another wine that Argentine wineries claim is unique to Argentina. Of course, since I do not like white wine, it was not my favorite. I especially enjoyed the tour because it was the first one I have been on where they were actually producing wine as we watched (Figures 16 & 17); The winery is over 170 years old (Figure 18). I try and buy several of their wines (Figure 19), including the late harvest Torrontes which is quite good.

Figure 13. Bodega Etchart outside the small town of Cafayate.

Figure 14. The Ruta del Vino in Salta Province, Sharon at Bodega Etchart.

Figure 15. Bodega Etchart produces several different wines.

Figure 16. Bringing the grapes to the bodega.

Figure 17. Starting the wine production by placing the grapes into the crusher.

Figure 18. Etchart Bodega was founded in 1850.

Figure 19. We try several of the reds and the late harvest Torrontes.

We also visit several “organic” wineries in the Valles Calchaquíes (Figures 20 to 22).

Figure 20. One of the "organic" winneries, Bodega Nanni.

Figure 21. Another organic winery, Bodega Nubes.

Figure 22. The vinyard at Bodega Nubes.

On a trip through the scenic Quebrada de Cafayate, we unexpectedly find a small bodega, Las Casa de la Bodega (Figure 23 & 24). This is a boutique hotel and small exclusive winery about 16 km northeast of Cafayate. Unfortunately, we are a bit too late to taste their wines.

Figure 23. Las Casa de la Bodega.

Figure 24. Pool at the boutique hotel.

Probably the most famous of the Cafayate wineries is Bodega El Esteco (Figure 25) producing several well known labels, including “Elementos”, “Don David”, and “Ciclos”. The tasting is expensive. We have to buy a “flight” of three to four wines. Each taste is a glass of wine for each label. So we each take a different flight and share. We try all of them (Figures 26 to 28).

Figure 25. The main building at Bodega El Esteca.

Figure 26. Sharon, Gary, and Karla in the tasting room at Bodega El Esteco.

Figure 27. John, Gary, Karla, and Sharon taste different wines at Bodega El Esteca.

Figure 28. Our hostess, Florencia, serves the wine at Bodega El Esteca.

On our way north on Ruta 40 in Salta Province, we go off the road 16 km to another boutique hotel and winery, Bodega Colome (Figure 29 & 30). We have a snack and try some of their wines which are very good and expensive (Figure 31). The cost for a night at the hotel for two is US $340. We decide to camp in the beautiful desert nearby (Figure 32 & 33). At camp we try some of our wines (Figure 34 & 35).

Figure 29. Boutique Hotel and Bodega Colome.

Figure 30. The Hotel Colome.

Figure 31. Gary, Karla, and Sharon try some snacks and wine at the restaurant at Bodega Colome.

Figure 32. Our camp near Bodega Colome.

Figure 33. The desert near our camp.

Figure 34. The Merlot from Bodega Nubes.

Figure 35. The late harvest (Cosecha Tardia) Torrontes for dessert in the desert.

On our way back to the Lake Region around Lago Nahuel Huapi, we stop for a last tasting at the bodega of familia Schroeder near Neuquen , with one label of Saurus (Figure 36 & 37). The winery was built on top of a Mesosoic paleontological area (Figure 38), hence the lable name. We try three of the reds. They are all quite good. We like the Pinot Noir for its bouquet of anis and taste of chocolate. We buy 6 bottles (Figure 39).

Figure 36. Bodega Schroeder with the Saurus label.

Figure 37. Saurus Restaurant and Bodega.

Figure 38. Display of the fossils at the bodega.

Figure 39. Sharon buying our stash of Saurus reds.

Interestingly, we find that everyone gets into the wine act in Argentina, this in San Juan (Figure 40).

Figure 40. This photo needs no title.

The wines of Argentina run the gamut of bad to good. We have only tried a few of the many bodegas, but give us time.

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Argentina Part II

2010-02-19T13:09:00.000-08:00

Argentina Part II:

Ushuaia to San Rafael, Mendoza:

(8 January to 25 January 2010)

We leave Karla and Gary for our trip back north. They are going on an Antarctic cruise for 10 days. We return to Club Nautico in Rio Grande for a night. The next day we catch the last ferry out of Bahia Azul (Figure 1) to cross the Straights of Magellan (Figure 2). On the ferry trip, we see dolphins (Figure 3 & 4).

Figure 1. Ferry north from Bahia Azul across the Straights of Magellan.

Figure 2. Ferry crossing the Straights of Magellan with Tierra del Fuego in Background.

Figure 3. Dolphins surfing the ferry wake.

Figure 4. Dolphins in the wake of the ferry.

We spend several days in Punta Arenas, Chile because our dog Ewok is sick, and needs to see a veterinarian. While there we visit the penguin colony at Seno (Sound) Otway (Figure 5 and 6). There are also other birds in the area (Figure 7 & 8). The vegetation is typical of the Patagonian Steppe (Figure 9).

Figure 5. Magellanic penguins at Seno Otway.

Figure 6. Magellanic Penguins, adult and two chicks.

Figure 7. Austral negrito (a flycatcher) at the penguin colony.

Figure 8. Long-tailed meadowlark at the penguin colony.

Figure 9. Patagonian wildflowers.

Once back in Argentina, we drive north on Ruta 3 along the Atlantic coast (Figure 10). We stay one night in the Municipal Campground in Puerto San Julian (Figure 11). This is one of the bays (Figure 12) visited by Magellan in the Spanish Galleon Victoria (Figure 13) , and later mapped by Fitzroy while on HMS Beagle. Along Ruta 3 we see a variety of wildlife (Figures 14 to 16). We also observe working gauchos on the estancias (Figure 17).

Figure 10. The Atlantic Coast north of Caleta Olivia.

Figure 11. Camp at Puerto San Julian.

Figure 12. The bay at Puerto San Julian.

Figure 13. Model of Magellan's ship Victoria in Puerto San Julian.

Figure 14. Grey fox south Rio Gallegos on Ruta 3.

Figure 15. Lesser rhea south Rio Gallegos on Ruta 3.

Figure 16. Puma scat in Parque Nacional Monte Leon.

Figure 17. Gaucho on Ruta 3.

As we head west across Patagonia on RN 26, we see the oilfields (Figure 18). We also have trouble getting gasoline (nafta) in several areas. In fact, we had to sit in line at Gobenador Costa for several hours while we waited for the gasoline truck to deliver (Figure 19). Luckily, we were 12th in a line of over 60 cars. We did see some neat elegant crested tinamous in this apart of Patagonia (Figure 20).

Figure 18. Patagonia oilfields inland from Comodor Rivadavia.

Figure 19. Waiting in line for gasoline to be delivered.

Figure 20. Elegant Crested Tinamous near Fangano, Patagonia.

We returned to Bariloche for a five day stay before heading on north. We drove around Lagos Nahuel Huapi and Mendez (Figures 21 & 22) for a day of sight seeing.
Figure 21. Bariloche from across Lago Nahuel Huapi.

Figure 22. Sharon and Lago Mendez with Lago Hahuel Huapi in background.

On our way north on Ruta 40, I stop to fish on the Rio Limay (Figure 23 & 24). We continue north to Junin de los Andes where we camp for the night. The scenery is breath taking (Figures 25 & 26). I do fish and catch several trout on the Rio Chimehuin, but they are small, nothing over 16 inches.

Figure 23. The Rio Limay where I fish for a while but catch nothing.

Figure 24. The Rio Limay is famous for its trout.

Figure 25. A volcanic rock formation called “Dedos de Dios” along Ruta 40.

Figure 26 Volcan Lanin seen from Ruta 40.

On our way out of Junin de los Andes, we stop at a condor observation site. The condors nest on the ledges of the cliffs (Figure 27). White wash from their defecation can be seen below the ledges. I see a condor on the cliff with binoculars, but am unable to photograph it at this distance.

Figure 27. Condor observation site, on the cliff you can see white wash where the birds defecate.

Along Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia, there are numerous cattle estancias rather than the sheep or sheep/cattle estancias of the south (Figures 28 & 29). We also see somne interesting wildlife (Figures 30 & 31). This part of Patagonia resembles parts of the Mohave Desert in the western USA (Figures 32 & 33).

Figure 28. Estancia on Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia.

Figure 29. Gaucho riding line on an estancia along Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia.

Figure 30. The red-backed hawk is common along Ruta 40.

Figure 31. One of the few snakes we saw in northern Patagonia.

Figure 32. Creosote bush in northern Patagonia.

Figure 33. The northern Patagonian Desert reminds me of the Mohave Desert.

Ruta 40 finally leaves Patagonia behind as we cross into Mendoza Province at the Rio Colorado and its tributaries (Figures 34 & 35). The landscape changes dramatically, from the low rolling desert plains of Patagonia to more volcanic desert rock formations (Figures 36 to 38). Along Ruta 40 we experience desert thundershowers that flood the ripio (dirt) road (Figures 39 to 41).

Figure 34. Rio Barrancas is one of the tributaries of the Rio Colorado which defines the northern limit of Patagonia.

Figure 35. Ruta 40 as it enters Mendoza Province.

Figure 36. Rio Barrancas with volcanic lava flows in the background.

Figure 37. The Rio Grande has cut a channel in the lava flow.

Figure 38. Another view of the Rio Grande.

Figure 39. Sign along Ruta 40 letting us know the problems ahead.

Figure 40. Ruta 40 after flash flood, we missed it by only a few hours.

Figure 41. Another view of Ruta 40 after the flash flood.

As we approach Mendoza, we drive through the Canyon Rio Atuel. Locals call it the mini Grand Canyon (Figures 42 to 44).

Figure 42. Canon Rio Atuel, Mendoza.

Figure 43. Another view of the Canyon Rio Atuel.

Figure 44. Still another view.

Sharon and I try our first wine tasting in the city of San Rafael south of Mendoza. We are not much impressed except for the organic winery of “Numerado de Abel Orrea”. Felix (in the photo) is the vintner and his Malbec is quite tasty, if a bit young (Figure 45).

Figure 45. The organic viña of “Numerado de Abel Orrea” Malbec.

I was surprised at the size and diversity of Argentina. There is no way I can do it in two parts. Thus, you will have to suffer through a Part III and possibly a Part IV before we leave for home.

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Vinos y Sabores: Chile y Argentina

2010-02-19T12:53:00.000-08:00

For Chile and Argentina, South America’s wine rich countries I decided to collect photos of the wine and cuisine we enjoyed along the route. Upon crossing into Chile it was obvious we were in a wine-rich country. Wine is a part of everyday life – the young couple camping at Pta. Camarones in Cuya immediately offered us a drink but not before pouring some wine on the ground to toast their Chilean ancestors. This wonderful wine sampling continued through Chile and Argentina. Needless to say, wherever there is good wine there is also good food. In Argentina I also discovered some of the tango legends such as Carlos Gardel and Astor Piazzolla. The following i-photos cover Chile and Argentina.

Sharon
February 19, 2010
Salta, Argentina

Argentina: Ruta 40, Ripio, Viñas, Estancias, Spectacular Landscape and More

2010-01-20T17:47:00.000-08:00

Part 1: Patagonia - Bariloche to Ushuaia and Return

We arrived in Bariloche in time to locate boarding for Ewok -- before checking into Club Hotel Cerro Catedral for the holiday season. The crossing from Chile into Argentina went smoothly. While in the Bariloche area we also stayed at El Yieti (camped), Camping Petunia (Cabañas) and Hotel Cerro Catedral. We were surprised by how helpful everyone was -- such as, the guy who gave us a boarding recommendation for Ewok, the wonderful Bariloche vets, Juan keeping Ewok in his garden and inviting us to Xmas Eve dinner at Puerto Petunia Restaurant, Alejo – the great chief at Puerto Petunia -- and the list goes on.

After 12 days we left delightful Bariloche and began the drive south on Ruta 40. Our travels south took us to Epuyen (Hosteria Del Lago in a rustic cabana), Parque Nacional Los Alerces (camped), Gobernador Costa (Hotel Roca), Telken Estancia (camped), La Angostura Estancia (camped), El Calafate (Los Dos Pinos Cabanas) where we spent New Years and visted Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Then it was onto Chilean Patagonia (Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine and Punta Arenas). We crossed into Tierra Del Feugo via ferry from Punta Arenas to Provenir, Chile then after a short drive (100km) on ripio (gravel road) we crossed back into Argentina. Then onto to Rio Grande (Refugio Camping Club Nautica where we meet lots of exciting travelers (on bikes, kayaks, etc.) and our final destination Ushuaia (camped at Pisto Club Andino). This completed our Deadhorse, Alaska to Tierra Del Fuego Journey.

After 2 days in Ushuaia we returned to Punta Arenas, Chile for 6 days to receive treatment for Ewok’s cancer from caring Dr. Tatiana Lopez; then back into Argentina via Ruta 3 (camped at Peurto Julian) then back onto Ruta 40 stopping only at Gobernador Costa (Hotel Roca) and then back to Bariloche (El Yeti and Bungalows Milaquen) where our beloved Ewok died on Jan 18. We will miss her.

During our road trip through Argentina we encountered red flags, votive offerings and other items at roadside shrines. We initially thought the shrines were memorials to people killed along the roadside. Later, I discovered that the shrines pay homage to Antonio Gil (also know as “Gauchito Gil” or “El Gauchito”) who is regarded as a Robin Hood type figure by many.

Also in our travels, we saw bottles of water at certain points along the roadside – were they bottles of water for bikers or??? They were in fact part of Disfunta Correa shrines. Legend has it that during the civil wars of 1840’s Deolinda Correa followed the movements of her husband’s battalion on foot through the deserts of San Juan. When her meager supplies ran out she died with their baby son in her arms. When passing muleteers found them the baby was still nursing. This is the first of miracles attributed to her. At her shrines throughout Argentina you will see bottles of water left to quench her thirst. Truckers are especially devoted and if they borrow water they return it to the site later. Other than water there are other offerings left; at some shrines there may even be enough parts to build a car.

Part 2: The Provinces of Mendoza, San Juan, Rioja and Catamarca

On Jan 21 we headed north again on scenic Ruta 40 towards Argentina’s wine region. Enroute we stopped at Junin de Los Andes (camped at Laura Vacuna), Choas Malal (Muncipal Campground) and Valle Grande, near San Rafael (Camping Los Sauces). Instead of stopping first in Mendoza we headed first to San Juan wine region (San Juan (Hotel Alkazar & Apart Hotel Rocio), Barreal (Posada Don Eduardo) and Pismanta (Hotel Termas de Pismanta). Later we went to Mendoza (Sheraton Mendoza: Pet Friendly) to visit some of the Viñas.

After a quick trip to Chile via Portillo Pass (Ruta 7) through the Andes to check out shipping options for the SUV we returned to Aparthotel Rocio in San Juan. San Juan is a very friendly city to explore. We headed north again on Ruta 40 stopping at San Augustin de Valle Fertil (Camping Valle Fertil), Rioja (Camping Los Pinos), Belen (Camping),

(See the I-Movie posted earlier on wine districts of Chile and Argentina and John's section on Argentian Wines.)

Part 3: Provinces of Salta, JuJuy, Santiago del Estero

The drive through Salta and JuJuy Provinces was a totally awesome experience where we experienced colorful grandiose landscape. We enjoyed discovering Cafayate (Camping Rio Colorado) another great wine region. Then it was onto Molinos where we took another ripio detour to visit Finca Colomé (camping) to sample more wines. From Colomé it was onto Cachi (Camping Municipal) and Salta (Hotel La Beltraneja - pet friendly and wonderful staff). From Salta we drove north on Ruta 9 to JuJuy and then onto Ruta 52 to Puma de Jama. We stopped at Pastos Chicos (camped) and Purmamarca (Hosteria Bebo Vilte). We retraced our journey to return to Salta (Hotel La Beltraneja) where we continued to explore what Salta has to offer. We found Salta to be an enjoyable, relaxing city to visit.

Our travels next took us through Santiago del Estero (stopping only in Cuidad de Loreto, Hotel Ruta 9).

Part 4: Cordoba, La Pampa and Patagonia (Neuquen)

Codoba Province was delightful. We visited first Cordoba (Aparhotel Bari – pet friendly). While we were in Cordoba we were saddened to hear about the earthquake in Chile. Cordoba had a big city feel; so we were fortunately we explored the beautiful Sierra towns of La Cumbre (Camping El Paso), Villa Carlos Pas (ACA Camping) and Embalse (Camping).

Realizing that our time in South America was getting shorter we decided to head south towards Lake District via La Pampa. La Pampa is close to the stereotypical image most North Americans have of Argentina – grasslands, pampas grass, cattle herding, etc.. Our journey through La Pampa took us to General Acha (Hotel Patagonia), Parque Nacional Lihuel Calel (camping).

It was onto Neuquen where we stopped at Añelo (Hotel Sol de Añelo), Villa de La Angostura (Camping Cullumche & Camping Uniquehue). While traveling through Neuquen we also visited the Familia Schroeder Viña. It was great to be back in the lake distict. We spent four idyllic days in Villa de La Angostura. Leaving Villa de La Angosturia we traveled through an area know as Seite Lagos (seven lakes) where we camped at Camping Lago Falkner. We took a break from the road at San Martin de Los Andes (Villa Pirén & Cabanas Ensueno) before heading to Junin de Los Andes where we would cross back into the Chilean Lake District.

Part 5: Buenos Aires

(To be posted later)

During our travels through Argentina I collected i-photos which resulted in the following i-movies.

I-Movie #1: Patagonia - Bariloche to Ushuaia and Return

I-Movie # 2: The Provinces of Mendoza, San Juan , Rioja and Catamarca

I-Movie # 3: Provinces of Salta, JuJuy, Santiago del Estero,

I-Movie #4: Cordoba, La Pampa and Patagonia (Neuquen)

I-Movie # 5: Buenos Aires

(To be added later)

Argentina: Part I

2010-01-20T05:41:00.000-08:00

Argentina Part I:

Patagonia to Ushuaia:
(14 December to 8 January 2009)

Crossing into Argentina was easier than any border crossing we have experienced. Even the pet paperwork took only 15 minutes. The actual border between Chile and Argentina is in the Andes Mountains (Figure 1 & 2). We drove immediately to San Carlos de Bariloche on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi (Figure 3, also called Lago Bariloche).

Figure 1. The border between Chile and Argentina.

Figure 2. The pass in the Andes between Chile and Argentina.

Figure 3. Lago Nahuel Huapi defines the north side of San Carlos de Bariloche.

We spend the first two days at a nice, but uninteresting, campground a few kilometers west of Bariloche, Camping El Yeti (Figure 4). During these first two days I meet Juan Waroquieres, a fishing guide at Petunia Campground (Figure 5). He talks us into staying at the cabañas at Petunia (Figure 6). The cabañas are nice and have beautiful views (Figure 7). Juan also owns the small but excellent gourmet restaurant, Puerto Petunia (Figure 8).

Figure 4. Our camp at El Yeti.

Figure 5. My fishing guide, Juan, from Fishing Patagonia.

Figure 6. Our cabin at Petunia.

Figure 7. The view from our cabin at Puerto Petunia.

Figure 8. The Restaurant Puerto Petunia.

I hire Juan to take me trout fishing on Lago Nahuel Huapi. I am told by an expert fly fisherman that Juan is probably the best guide in Bariloche. We go for two trips, a couple of hours each on two consecutive days. The first day I catch four trout. The sizes range from 22 inches (about 2 kg, 4.5 lbs) to 24 inches (3 kg, 7 lbs). They are all rainbows, and we keep two (Figures 9 & 10). The second day Juan promises me a German brown trout. We fish for several hours and take two nice rainbows that I release. On our last pass along the north side of Peninsula San Pedro, I get a hit that really bends the rod. It is a 27 inch, 4 kg (about 9 lbs) German brown (Figures 11 & 12).

Figure 9. One of the rainbows I release, it is 22.5 inches.

Figure 10. This one, 24 inches, I keep to have smoked.

Figure 11. German brown trout, I cannot smile because it weighs so much it is hard to hold.

Figure 12. The German brown puts up a good fight.

We spend Christmas in Club Hotel Catedral, the ski resort at Bariloche. Gary and Karla meet us on the 23rd. We have a nice Christmas day dinner of trout, fondue, and Argentine wine (Figures 13 & 14).

Figure 13. Christmas dinner of trout and wine.

Figure 14. Sharon, Karla, and Gary at the fondue pot.

We leave Bariloche on 26 December to head south on famous Ruta 40 through Patagonia. The first night brings us to a small town in Patagonia called Epuyen (Figure 15). We have a nice dinner at Refugio del Lago (Figure 16).

Figure 15. Sharon and John at Lago Epuyen.

Figure 16. Gary, Karla, and Sharon at dinner in Refugio del Lago, Epuyen.

The next day, we enter Parque Nacional Los Alerces (Figure 17). It has stunning Nothofagus (southern beech) forests (Figure 18) and fine fishing, although the rainbows are small (Figure 19).

Figure 17. Parque Nacional Los Alerces.

Figure 18. Gary with fly rod in hand contemplates the southern beech forest at Los Alerces.

Figure 19. John fishing at Los Alerces, Lago Rivadiva.

Out of Los Alerces, we take Ruta 40 south in the Province of Chubut (Figure 20). The scenery looks very much like the Great Basin in north central Nevada (Figure 21). The road is paved until Rio Mayo where it turns to ripio (graded dirt) for over 500 km. We camp at two Estancias along the way south. These are working sheep/cattle ranches that also take in tourists. They are quite nice and the views are fantastic (Figures 23 to 26). Wildlife is easy to see on the estancias (Figures 27 to 32).

Figure 20. Sharon and MB on Ruta 40 out of Gobernador Costa.

Figure 21. The landscape along Basin Ruta 40 reminds one of the Great Basin in North America.

Figure 22. Ruta 40 is ripio (dirt) south of Rio Mayo.

Figure 23. Camp at Estancia Telken.

Figure 24. Estancia Tellken.

Figure 25. John at breakfast at Estancia La Angostura.

Figure 26. A view of Estancia la Angostura.

Figure 27. Crested duck at Estancia la Angostura.

Figure 28. Long-tailed meadowlark at Estancia La Angostura.

Figure 29. Black-necked swan at Estancia La Angostura.

Figure 30. Upland goose (male) at Estancia La Angostura.

Figure 31. Guanaco at Estancia Telken.

Figure 32. Lesser Rhea with chicks at Estancia Telken.

The landscape is mesmerizing as we travel Ruta 40 south (Figures 33 to 35). As we approach El Calafate and Glacier Perito Moreno, the landscape becomes more varied (Figures 36 & 37). Glacier Perito Moreno is a real tourist attraction (Figures 38 &39).

Figure 33. Landscape south of Estancia Tellken.

Figure 34. South of Estancia Tellken, Los Andes in the background.

Figure 35. Hills south of Estancia La Angostura.

Figure 36. An iceberg is visible on Lago Argentina. It was probably calved from Glacier Perito Moreno.

Figure 37. Lago Argentina west of El Calafate with Los Andes in the background.

Figure 38. Glacier Perito Moreno.

Figure 39. Glacier Perito Moreno calves.

On 2 January 2010 we leave Argentina for Chile (Figure 40). Regardless of the reason, we would have to cross into Chile in any event. This is a short diversion to see Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (Figures 41 to 43). And the park also has some spectacular wildlife (Figures 44 to 49).

Figure 40. Chilean border with Argentina, the only way into Torres del Paine (and Tierra del Fuego) without boating or flying.

Figure 41. Part of the reason for the name, "Torres del Paine".

Figure 42. Another reason for the name, Torres del Paine.

Figure 43. Salto Grande (Great Falls) at Torres del Paine.

Figure 44. Patagonian grey fox in Torres del Paine.

Figure 45. Crested cara cara in Torres del Paine.

Figure 46. Andean Condors in Torres del Paine.

Figure 47. Guanacos in Torres del Paine.

Figure 48. White-eared grebe in Torres del Paine.

Figure 49. Flying steamer duck in Torres del Paine.

The road leads south to Puerto Natales and on to Punta Arenas where we camp for two nights (Figure 50) before taking the ferry across the Straights of Magellan (Figures 51 to 53). Of course, once on Tierra del Fuego, we had to cross back into Argentina (Figure 54). Our first night in Tierra del Fuego, we stay in the town of Rio Grande. We find a nice campground at the Club Nautica, which is a kayaking business (Figure 55 & 56). Interestingly, we meet two men from California (one from Santa Cruz) who began their trip on bicycles in 2006. They started in Deadhorse Alaska. It’s a small World.

Figure 50. Camp at Punta Arenas.

Figure 51. The ferry from Punta Arenas to Porvenir across the Straights of Magellan.

Figure 52. Crossing the Straights of Magellan.

Figure 53. The Straights of Magellan with Tierra del Fuego in the background.

Figure 54. The Argentine border in Tierra del Fuego.

Figure 55. Camp at Club Nautica in Rio Grande.

Figure 56. Sharon in the dinning room at Club Nautica.

From Rio Grande we take Ruta 3 south to Ushuaia (Figure 57). We finish the first part of Argentina in Ushuaia. This is our ultimate destination (Figures 58). It is now our objective to return home. The city of Ushuaia is the starting point for most cruises to Antarctica (Figure 59). Our camp is comfortable in Ushuaia (Figures 60 & 61) at coordinates S 54° 48.780’ X W 68° 21.102’. Gary, Karla, Sharon and I celebrate reaching the end of the driving World (Figures 62 & 63). Actually, the road continues on southwest to Lapataia at coordinates S 54° 49.873’ X W 68° 33.875’. One might be able to make the case that the road to Punta Arenas, Chile is as far south as you can drive, since you have to cross an ocean waterway (the Straights of Magellan) to get to Tierra del Fuego.

Figure 57. Tierra del Fuego, Ruta 3 to Ushuaia.

Figure 58. We are at the doorstep to Ushuaia.

Figure 59. Ships in the port at Usuaia.

Figure 60. Ushuaia campground.

Figure 61. Our camp at Ushuaia.

Figure 62. Celebrating reaching our goal with Argentine "champagne" at camp.

Figure 63. Even the car enters the celebration.

The entire trip from Deadhorse to Ushuaia included a total of 20,172 miles (32464 km). Now we will head back north. The Mercedes completed this leg of the trip with one blow-out, a worn universal joint, and one head light replaced.

Argentina Part I: Patagonia is, perhaps, the most interesting segment of our road trip (2345 miles recorded in Argentina and the detour to Torres del Paine). Ushuaia was our destination.

Chile

2009-12-21T13:23:00.000-08:00

Chile:

A Breath of Fresh Air:

(19 November – 14 December 2009)

Our border crossing into Chile went easier than any so far. Even the pets went fast. Our first few days were spent in a campground north of Arica. Arica is a beautiful town in the desert, along the coast in northern Chile (Figure 1). We spent most of two days trying to find a place to issue the “Seguros Obligatorios” that is required. However, the first day we find all insurance offices are closed for a special holiday (“Dia del Seguros”). Then we can not find anyone who issues the vehicle insurance.

Figure 1. Street scene in Arica.

We spend the next two days driving south. We camp at a nice beach the first night (Figures 2 & 3), then a river in the desert (Figures 4 & 5). We observe some interesting wildlife (Figure 6). On the way there are several areas with ancient rock drawings or geoglyphs (Figures 7 & 8).

Figure 2. Camp at Caleta Camarones south of Arica.

Figure 3. Beach at Caleta Camarones south of Arica.

Figure 4. Camp at Rio Loa, a desert river valley.

Figure 5. Rio Loa, a desert river valley.

Figure 6. Lizard at the river camp.

Figure 7. Geoglyphs of guanacos and other animals.

Figure 8. Geoglyphs of sunburst and human.

We drive on south through the driest desert in the World, the Atacama Desert (Figure 9), and continue past the Tropic of Capricorn (Figure 10). We spend the night at Antofagasto a rather large city on the coast in northern Chile (Figure 11).

Figure 9. The Panamerican Highway in the Atacama Desert.

Figure 10. Tropic Capricorn on the Panamerican Highway just north of Antofagasta.

Figure 11. The beach at Antofagasta.

Our trip takes us through some fantastic desert in spring bloom, after all it is late November in the Southern Hemisphere (Figures 12 -15). We spend a couple of days relaxing in a resort just north of a small town called Tal Tal (Figure 16).

Figure 12. Wildflowers north of Tal Tal.

Figure 13. Copulating beetles in the desert north of Tal Tal. The spring bloom is not just for flowers.

Figure 14. Wildflower in desert north of Tal Tal.

Figure 15. More wildflowers.

Figure 16. View of the bay at Cabañas Hueso, Tal Tal, where we spent two nights.

As we travel south, the desert slowly gives way to desert scrub (Figure 17), then to chaparral (Figure 18) as we approach Santiago (Figure 19). It reminds me of California.

Figure 17. Desert Scrub between Tal Tal and Serrano.

Figure 18. Chaparral north of Santiago.

Figure 19. Panamerican Highway north of Santiago.

We spend no time in Santiago. Instead, we head south to the wine country of the Colchagua Valley near the town of Santa Cruz. We take a room for three nights in a small boutique Hotel Entre Viñas. It is a converted old hacienda, dating from the late 1800’s (Figure 20 & 21). The breakfasts were fantastic.

Figure 20. Hotel Entre Viñas at breakfast.

Figure 21. The grounds at Hotel Entre Viñas.

Our first day near Santa Cruz we visit the Vu Manent winery (Figure 22). We have lunch in their restaurant (Figures 23 & 24). The wines are good, but the Malbec is their prize (Figure 25). I liked the “Secrete” blend (Figure 26). It is 85% Malbec and 15% a secrete. It is very good.

Figure 22. Viña Viu Manent entrance to tasting and restaurant.

Figure 23. Lunch at Viña Viu Manent.

Figure 24. Of course, wine with lunch at Viña Viu Manent.

Figure 25. Tasting the Malbec at Viu Manent.

Figure 26. Other wines are also good. This one is a “secrete” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, and Malbec.

Over the next two days (29/30 November 2009) we visit several other wineries. The one we liked the best was a relatively new viña called Viña Mont Gras. We loved all of their wines (Figure 27). We tried each of their wines, and liked the Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend the best (Figures 28 - 30). We bought a bottle of each (Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend, Malbec, Carmenere, and Cabernet Sauvignon). A few days is just not enough. We will return to the wine regions of Chile.

Figure 27. Viña Mont Gras.

Figure 28. John tasting at Viña Mont Gras.

Figure 29. Tasting at Viña Mont Gras (Sharon, Karla, and host).

Figure 30. Karla and Sharon in the Viña Mont Gras sales room.

We continue south to the Lake Region in southern Chile. Gary and I want to try the trout fishing. We visit several nation parks, and I get to see my first southern beech trees (Nothofagus sp.). There are several species (Figure 31 & 32). We also see a variety of birds (Figures 33 & 34). We have several camps, but one we enjoy is at the headwaters of the Rio Bio Bio (Figure 35 & 36). We try our luck fishing, but do not even get a hit.

Figure 31. Southern beech with volcano in background on the way to Curacautín.

Figure 32. Southern beech at Los Troncas.

Figure 33. Chimango Cara Cara in our camp at Campground Los Raudales.

Figure 34. Black Faced Ibis near our camp at Ecoparque Lemucura.

Figure 35. Sunset at our camp on Rio Bio Bio.

Figure 36. Gary setting camp on Rio Bio Bio.

We move on to Parque Nacional Congillio where there are beautiful forests of southern beech and araucaria (sometimes called monkey puzzle tree). These are quite primeval looking (Figures 37 & 38). We have a nice camp in the park very close to Lago Conguillio (Figure 39). The views are spectacular (Figures 40 – 42). We do have some luck fishing, but it is nothing to show (see us in Argentina on the next blog posting).

Figure 37. Araucaria Forest in Parque Nacional Conguillio.

Figure 38. Southern beech in Parque Nacional Congillio.

Figure 39. Ewok in our camp at Congillio.

Figure 40. View of Laguna Conguillio and surrounding Andes mountains.

Figure 41. Lava field and Volcano Lliama in P. N. Conguillio.

Figure 42. Active Volcano Lliama.

We split from Gary and Karla to travel our own route for a couple of weeks. We plan to meet again in Argentina. We drive on to Puerto Varas to camp at Playa Niklitschek (Figure 43 & 44). We spend a couple of days exploring the area and other national parks. When we leave to head toward the Argentine border, I stop to fish and have a bit better luck (Figure 45).

Figure 43. Camp at Playa Niklitsheck on Lago Llanquihue with Sharon and Ewok.

Figure 44. View of Volcano Osorno from Playa Niklitsheck.

Figure 45. John with 14” rainbow trout from Lago Llanquihue.

As we leave Lago Llanquihue, we have a blow out on the left rear tire. I change the tire. The spare is a small emergency tire. We have to go to Osorno to see about getting a new tire. Of course it is Saturday afternoon, and all regular businesses are closed. We do find a used tire place that has a tire that fits. However, it is not the exact size (245/65R17, while our's are 255/60R17). It will have to do until Monday when we can try to get a correct size tire. Now the decision is whether to drive on to Argentina or stay near Osorno until Monday. We think the chances are better that we will get two correct size tires in Argentina. We need two since they have to be very close to the same size and ours have been wearing for over 20,000 km. In hind sight, that was a big mistake (see our next blog on Argentina).

Chile (3310 miles recorded) was a pleasant return to normalcy after Peru.

Chile: Las Rutas de --Los Vinos, Los Rios, Los Lagos, etc

2009-12-21T13:16:00.000-08:00

Chile: The Long Wonderful Slice of Geographic Diversity

Our journey south resulted in a smooth border crossing from Peru into Chile at Arica on November 14, 2009. The only difference this time they checked everything; so we had to take everything out of the SUV and put it through an x-ray machine to enter Chile from Peru. Enter permits for Amadeus and Ewok were processed very efficiently. After reviewing all the prior documents they valued most the Panamian vetinarian documentation, with the two official stamps (that took me all day to get in Panama City).

Part 1: Las Rutas de -- Los Vinos, Los Rios, Los Lagos, Los etc.

Our travels through Chile took us to different regions. We continued coastal desert journey stopping at Arica (camped), Cuya (camped at Pta. Camarones), Autofagasta (Hotel del Sur), Taltal (Cabañas Hueso), and North of Los Vilos (camped).

Next, it was onto San Fernando (Hotel Espanola) and Santa Cruz in the Central Valley where we enjoyed some of the best cuisine and wine in the world (Entre Viñas – wonderful boutique hotel). As usual after I inquire about room availability – I ask if they accept pets. If they do not out right refuse I show a photo of Ewok on my i-phone. In this case since we planned on staying three nights I informed them of also of Amadeus. The response was – o.k. … You look like a cultured lady so we accept … “su perrita, gatito y pajarito”.

Continuing south to the lake district we visited Recinto (Cabañas), Pinto (camped), Rio Bio Bio (camped at Naciemento of Rio Bio Bio)) Parque National Conguillo (camped), Villarrica (Cabañas Bungalowlandia), Peurto Varas (camped at Playa Niklitschek), Ensenada (camped at Camping Montanya) and Pueyehue (Cabañas Copihues).

Again, we had anticipated hot weather late November through mid-December, but it was a great weather for travel. We were just before the tourist season making finding a camp spot or accommodations was easy. The Chilean Police are totally professional – if we were stopped it was a reminder like (turn on your headlights).

Part 2: Chilean Patagonia and Tierra Del Feugo

After spending the holiday season in Bariloche, Argentina and traveling south on Argentina (Ruta 40) we re-entered Chile in Patagonia enroute to Ushuaia, Tierra Del Feugo (a small part of which is also in Chile). This time we visited Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine (Refugio Laguna Azul), Punta Arenas (camped near the airport and at Donde Juan; Hostal Bulnes). We returned to Punta Arenas after Tierra Del Feugo to begin treatment for our Ewok (15.5 years old), as she was just diagnosed with Leukemia. It possible that she can live up to 2 years with the disease – but, we’ll see. We are most fortunate that Punta Arenas has good veterinary care and we received excellent advice from Dr. Tatiana Lopez.

We enjoyed our journey through Chile the following i-movie captures some images from our travels.

Sharon
Punta Arenas, Chile
January 13, 2010

Part 1

Part 2

Peru: The Coastal Route

2009-12-21T13:01:00.000-08:00

Peru has three primary regions - coastal (desert), highlands (Andes) and tropical (Amazon). While there are so many possible places to visit in Peru our journey took us along the coastal route. We had a smooth border crossing from Ecuador into Peru at Macara. We were treated well; one of the Peruvian officials even gave us some great tips on places to visit along the coast.

Our stop-overs along the coast included mostly small towns such as Colan (Colan Beach Lodge), Sipan (camped at the museum), Tortuga (El Farol Hostel) Chancay(small hotel), Pucusana (Mirador Hospedaje), Itaca (Camino Real) and Puerto Inca (camped). The one exception on the route was a side trip to the famous white stone city of Arequipa (Hotel Mercedes - camped).

We had anticipated hot weather because of the desert climate along the coast – but November, was a great month to head south along the coast. As we traveled along the coastal desert we encountered green belts/agriculture regions which were feed by rivers flowing from the Andes. The breeze off the Pacific Ocean was great!!! In our travels through Peru our only challenge was being stopped by the Peruvian Police – they were mostly friendly except near the big cities of Lima and Arequipa.

We enjoyed our journey along the Peruvian coast the following i-movie captures some images from our travels.

Sharon
Bariloche, Argentina
December 2009

Peru

2009-12-08T19:27:00.000-08:00

Peru:

Back to the Old Latin Stereotype:

(8 November - 19 November 2009)

Our border crossing into was very easy and fast. We did not have to register the dog and cat according to the agriculture inspector. Later we found out that we were supposed to do it. I guess the border inspector just did not want to take the time. We should have expected something was awry. Also, at the border, the vehicle inspection was easy, and the Aduana (SUNAT) said we did not need auto insurance YOU BET, see below (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Waiting for permits in Peru was very easy.

We started Peru in vegetation very similar to that we left in Ecuador, dry forest (Figure 2). It soon changed to very dry desert scrub and then to desert with no or very little vegetation (Figure 3).

Figure 2. Dry forest off the Panamerican Highway in northern Peru near the Macara border crossing.

Figure 3. The almost lifeless desert in northern Peru.

We stayed two nights in a very comfortable resort, The Playa Colán Lodge on the Pacific Coast (Figures 4 & 5). The food was excellent. It was a rough time at Playas Colán (Figures 6 &; 7).

Figure 4. Playas Colán Lodge swiming pool.

Figure 5. The beach at Playas Colán Lodge.

Figure 6. Playas Colán Lodge sunset.

Figure 7. Cocktails at Playa Colán Lodge.

We saw a lot of birds (Figures 8 to 10).

Figure 8. Black-neckied stilts at Playa Colán.

Figure 9. Magnificent Frigate bird at Playa Colán (at the port of Paita).

Figure 10. Vermillion Flycatcher at Playa Colán.

We drove south through the desert and cultivated river valleys to an archeological site known as Sipan. There are some interesting ruins (Figures 11 & 12). We also saw a fox (Figure 13) in the cane fields outside of Sipan.

Figure 11. Archeological dig at Sipan. The hill is actually an adobe pyramid.

Figure 12. The "Lord of Sipan", original gold, silver, and tourquoise in the museum in Lima.

Figure 13. Fox (Lycalopex culpaeus) near Sipan.

We drove on south towards Lima. It is a long drive through desert after desert after desert (Figures 14 to 16). Again we saw a lot of birds (Figure 17 & 18).

Figure 14. Desert Sand dunes south of Sipan.

Figure 15. Tortugas Bay, we stayed the night.

Figure 16. Desert Beach north of Lima.

Figure 17. Peruvian peliican at Tortugas Bay.

Figure 18. Blackish oyster catcher at Tortugas Bay.

Things got a bit worse as we approached Lima. In a small town (Chancay) north of Lima, Gary was stopped by the police for a traffic infraction. The police were going to take his license and car title. It would take two days to get them via legal means. However, the police gave him an option to pay a fine on the spot to avoid the delay. Of course, Gary took the option. What can we do? If we claim the police made the offer, would a judge believe us? Then as we entered Lima, I was pulled over by a “National Police” officer (his name was A. Salvadorre). He asked to see our papers. All was in order. He checked our safety equipment. All was in order. He asked to see our insurance. I said we did not have any since the Aduana at the border said we did not need it. He said it was obligatory. Then he said the fine was $400 U.S. He would take my license and car title to the police office until we paid the fine. We cloud not pay the fine that day (Friday). The earliest would be Monday, a wait of three days. But, he said we could pay him a smaller fine directly and we would not have to wait. Of course, I chose the latter to save time. This is why I call this blog “…the old Latin stereotype”. I could have probably beaten the “bribe” rip-off if I had wanted to wait until Monday.

We did not stay in Lima. Gary and I tried for several hours to get insurance, asking all over the place. Finally, a very nice taxi driver assisted us. He took us into downtown Lima where we finally found a company that would issue insurance to a foreign vehicle. We found many company that issued insurance but not to foreign buyers. It is a catch 22, since it is obligatory but almost no one will issue the insurance. How could we have gotten insurance at the border?

We drove south to Pucusana, a small town on a very nice bay. We stayed at a small Hosteria El Mirador that overlooks the bay (Figures 19 to 21). I am sick with the flu, so Sharon and I stay two nights. Gary and Karla move on after one night. We will meet again in Ica.

Figure 19. View of Pucusana Bay from El Mirador.

Figure 20. View of the sunset from El Mirador.

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Figure 21. Breakfast with Sharon, Karla, and Gary at El Mirador.

We met Gary and Karla in Ica. Then we drove through the Nazca lines area (Figures 22 to 25). They are best seen from the air, but you can get a feel for them from a tower.

Figure 22. Sign for the Nazca Lines.

Figure 23. The Nazca Lines from the tower, you cvan see part of the Lizard.

Figure 24. The two hands, one with 4, one with 5 fingers.

Figure 25. The tree of life (roots at top, branches at bottom of photo).

Our final nice place in Peru was at Puerta Inka, a resort on a beautiful bay that was once a major fishing port for the Inca. We stayed two nights (Figure 26), and saw several truck loads of tourist/campers (Figure 27). One was from Germany, another from Australia, and a third from Great Britain. However, none of these camper groups was only composed of people from one country they were a mix. The area had several excavations of the ruins (Figures 28 & 29).

Figure 26. Our Camp at Puerta Inka.

Figure 27. Camping groups at Puerta Inka.

Figure 28. Excavatiuon with human remains at Puerto Inka.

Figure 29. Excavation at Puerto Inka.

The desert south along the coast was spectacular, and it included some vegetation (Figures 30 to 34).

Figure 30. Road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 31. Another view of the road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 32. Flower on road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 33. Flower (looks like a stonecrop) on road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 34. Cactus on road south from Puerto Inka.

We drove to Arequipa, but only stayed one night. This time Sharon was stopped by the police. They wanted to see our papers and insurance. Sharon showed the papers. The officer said we needed a different set of papers to show ownership of the car. This time we argued that we had the correct papers. After it was apparent to the officer that we could not be “bullied” he left us alone.

Then we were off to Tacna. The road went through some really desolate desert (Figures 35 & 36).

Figure 35. Isolated sand dunes in the desert south of Arequipa.

Figure 36. Desert south of Arequipa.

In Tacna, we were unable to get a room because of Ewok. Also, there was no camping in the area, so we went on to cross the border into Chile. Sharon is not feeling well. Apparently, she has the same flu that I had a few days ago.

The Panamerican Highway runs along the Pacific Coast of Peru. I indicated earlier that it is mostly desert gives a false impression. The desert is broken by lush green agriculture filled valleys every 50 to 75 km (Figures 37 & 38).

Figure 37. A very green, heavily farmed desert valley west of Arequipa.

Figure 38. Desert river valley in northern Peru.

With the exception of our corrupt police encounters, the old Latin stereotype, the trip through Peru was quite fascinating.

Peru (1825 miles) was an unpleasant return to the corrupt stereotype we had expected but not seen in other parts of Latin America.