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   <channel>
      <title>
		lasttourist
	</title>
      <link>http://www.submarinechannel.com/</link>
      <description>
      www.submarinechannel.com
      </description>
      <language>en-us</language>
      <docs>http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss</docs>
      <ttl>60</ttl>
      <atom10:link xmlns:atom10="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" rel="self" href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/LastTouristCairo" type="application/rss+xml" /><item>
         <title>pictures of the (bawwab) doorman</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8297</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8856/bowab7.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 26 May 2006 13:58:50 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8297</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Riding along</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8271</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Living in this city reminds me of playing in the surf of the ocean. Sometimes the waves collapse on top of me and push me firmly against the ground. At other times I find myself on top of the waves riding along. But to just have a peaceful swim seems to be out of the question.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8857/shadowwalking2..JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 26 May 2006 11:03:24 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8271</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Very good country mister</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8243</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   yes is the answer to your question.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8858/peppersalt.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 23 May 2006 19:11:48 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8243</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>A little blue tattoo on his wrist</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8069</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Is this climate making me religous?
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8859/pijloverrooster.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 21 May 2006 20:52:52 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8069</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>A dull suburb instead of a densely populated country</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8031</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   In terms of size Cairo is not a big city. You quickly arrive at its edges in the desert or the green agricultural fields of the delta. According to official figures there are 17 million people living in greater Cairo city, a city big enough to accommodate two million. The density of people is only comparable to the Indian cities of Bombay and Delhi. Apart from that, nowhere else do so many people live so close together.
The population of the Netherlands is just as large as that of the city of Cairo. In this respect, the Netherlands is a dull suburb instead of a densely populated country.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8860/soccerclose.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 19 May 2006 10:22:59 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=8031</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>A nice collection of rubbish and gems</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7988</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Pictures of the Fridaymarket.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8861/fridaymarketstickers.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 18 May 2006 09:36:59 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7988</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Big furry cats and everything else</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7953</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Some people refer to the Friday market as the bird market. But I found out this are two separate markets. On the Friday market they sell besides birds also white rabbits, big furry cats, dogs, snakes, turtles and monkeys and everything else.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8862/fridaymarketdoveboy1.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 18 May 2006 09:13:30 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7953</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The Friday market</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7935</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Traveling towards the centre of the Friday market is like descending into some eerie netherworld
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8863/fridaymarketboydove2.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 18 May 2006 09:01:10 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7935</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Mastering a megapolis</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7894</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Getting to know a city, understanding a metropolis like Cairo, also has a lot to do with mastering it: learning how to escape the city, how to cut yourself off from the city's superior power, how to use the taxis, how to find the trains at stations where you can't read anything. In short, being able to leave the city if you want.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8864/manuitman3_copy_1.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 17 May 2006 10:41:41 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7894</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Crystallization of Chaos</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7850</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Models have emerged from physics on the laws of city growth, just like the laws on tidal waves and wildfires.  In the 1930s Lewis Mumford had associated the growth of a big city with the spread of a microbial colony.  
Just like the amoeboid it's failing to divide its social chromosomes and split up into new cells.  The big city continues to grow by breaking through the edges and accepting its sprawl and shapelessness as an inevitable by-product of its physical immensity*.  
Cairo's edges are cluttered lines that crawl into the Delta and, when the outlines of are drawn and compared with the shapes of microbial colonies, it becomes difficult to tell them apart.
* Philip Ball, Critical Mass, Arrow Books, 2004
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8865/img252.tif.jpeg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 14 May 2006 11:54:05 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7850</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The fabulous delta dandy</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7776</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   A store front story of the city that writes itself.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8866/Electric.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 13 May 2006 18:51:45 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7776</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The Inevitable Shape of Cities</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7822</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   I usually have a good sense of direction but while walking through this area I feel lost.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8867/img220.tif.jpeg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 12 May 2006 13:30:23 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7822</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Veiled cars</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7724</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Many cars are covered in cloth to protect them against the sun and dust.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8868/carcover3.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 11 May 2006 15:41:20 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7724</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Cairo is a center, and the center is everywhere.</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7647</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Cairo is a center, and the center is everywhere.
The sea. Why do I always think of the sea when I walk through the narrow, busy streets? Does it have to do with the memory of water? In the city, too, all the empty places are filled with garbage, people, clandestine shops, huts and parked cars. And just like the sea, or the universe, Cairo has no center. No beginning, no end. Cairo is a center, and the center is everywhere.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8869/img252.tif.jpeg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 09 May 2006 15:56:22 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7647</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>It's all behind the eyes.</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7589</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Personal space and privacy
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8870/mannetjemetgezichten.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 08 May 2006 08:53:45 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7589</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The neon sign on my roof</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7542</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8871/DSC_3764.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 07 May 2006 09:56:39 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7542</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The sea and the city</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7669</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Like the sea, the city, too, swells up at high tide. Every morning it floods up with busses, cars, carts and people. Boxes are unpacked, garbage is collected. And then when the sun goes back down everything is put away again and set aside. The shutters drop and the sounds cease, and the streets fall silent until the light, like the tide, comes back up and gets ready for the next day.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8872/tegenlicht.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 05 May 2006 09:24:01 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7669</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The Last Tourist Cairo</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=4029</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   'The last Tourist' is an online passage along hand drawn maps, texts and photographs. This website provides a personal reading of the cities that write themselves. 
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 03 May 2006 20:11:19 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=4029</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The emptiness of a busy city</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7086</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Slowly another city is revealing itself to me, a city where people are tired - not from working or from the bustle in the streets, which had impressed me so much at first, but from a harshness that's already been going on for quite some time.
Zipper and his Father is the title of a book by Joseph Roth. I found a second-hand copy at a street stall tucked in between trashy crime novels and second-rate romances. I've known the author's name but have never read him before. On the back Nadine Gordimer recommends this as &amp;quot;his most tender book.&amp;quot; It decribes a childhood friendship between Zipper and his father as seen through the eyes of a young boy. 
Although the book has nothing to do with Cairo, or even with Egypt for that matter, I recognized in the description of frau Zipper the words I was searching for to express the melancholy of downtown Cairo as I experienced it: 
She lay behind a moist veil. It was as though her tears, ever ready for shedding, already lay over her eyes. She wore long blue aprons, which made her look like a second-class nurse. She moved through life in soft slippers. She never raised her voice. She often sighed and blew her nose. When she raised a handkerchief to her face one saw her hard, dry hands, the fingers of which were disproportional strong, as if artificially crafted onto a hand too weak for them. When on special occasions, she put on her black spangled dress, she looked even yellower than usual. And somehow frozen as if she had just been taken out of an icebox. She seemed stiff not out pride, but out of resignation, powerlessness, unhappiness and regret - even as she sat on her chair. She combed her thin colourless hair over her broad, high forehead, a sort of compulsive beautification, a measure taken against her own will, as if someone had done her hair while she lay in a deep trance and she hadn't looked in her mirror. Only frau Zipper's mouth now drooping and morose betrayed - on all too rare occasions when she smiled - a long since faded charm, a vanished beauty, a fullness, and, for a fraction of a second, a soft dimple, no longer a dimple but rather a ghost of one, would appear in her chin. Her smile, her rare smile, was like a faint memorial to her dead youth. Within her pale, moist eyes flickered a faint and distant light, soon extinguished again, like the blinking of a distant lighthouse.
Fragment: Joseph Roth, Zipper and his Father, Granta Books London
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8873/ramsespoeplbridge.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 01 May 2006 13:24:11 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7086</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>A boy on the seventh floor</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7102</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   The elevator was not big enough for all of us. I decided to walk the 11 floors down. Somewhere between the 7th and 8th floor this boy came up to me asking something. 'Mish Fayhem' (I don't understand) I replied to him, but somehow he did not even understood this because  he kept on talking to me in Arabic.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8874/trappenhuisjongen6.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 27 Apr 2006 18:20:38 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=7102</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>what this neighborhood looks like.</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6824</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   In the neighborhood around the Townhouse Gallery where I work there are all sorts of auto repair shops. One garage replaces windows, another does bodywork. What is striking is that none of the shops do everything. Each garage is specialized in one particular part of the car. So every screw, the rings, every engine part has its own place. So if you were to dismantle a car and open a garage for every part, you��������d have a good impression of what this neighborhood looks like.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8875/fridaytrashmix.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 23 Apr 2006 19:55:36 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6824</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Kissing in Public</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6687</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Most things disappear from your field of vision without your being aware of it. You���re not conscious that something has disappeared until you suddenly see it again. So it was this evening at the Caf�� Horreya. Beside me are sitting Yafa and her husband. She tells me that they���re married to each other for the second time. They divorced because they were always busy with other things and in the end weren���t there for each other anymore. Her husband protests in Egyptian when he hears her explanation of their divorce. A discussion follows between them from which I am excluded. They argue, get angry, listen attentively to each other - and then something happens that I haven���t seen in a very long time. They lean towards each other and kiss, right in the middle of the caf��.
Kissing in public is illegal by law in egypt.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8876/14Vaya.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 22 Apr 2006 11:35:55 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6687</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>In a weird, wonderful way I feel safe in this bus</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6926</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Going with the flow of microbuses 
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8877/taxisilhouet.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 21 Apr 2006 17:49:08 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6926</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Cairo map</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6632</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 19 Apr 2006 13:14:13 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6632</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The sandwich artist</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6906</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   street psychology in the making.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8878/portsaiddollclose.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 18 Apr 2006 21:16:25 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6906</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Today was not a very good day for Mohammed Talgy.</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6880</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Today was not a very good day, says Talgy, the photographer who works from a studio tucked into the hallway of a residential building close to my studio. It was not a good day because his mobile phone was stolen. &amp;quot;A man came into my studio,&amp;quot; says Talgy, &amp;quot;to have his picture taken. Afterwards he asked if he could use my mobile for a moment. No problem, I said. Some other people walked into the store and the man who was using my telephone went outside and disappeared. I have his picture though'&amp;quot; and he holds up the portrait of the telephone thief. The man in the picture doesn't look like a thief at all. 
His father was also a photographer, and he points to
the black-and-white portrait hanging on the wall. It's a picture of an elegantly dressed man with dark-rimmed spectacles and shiny black wavy hair. I ask him about his daily routine and he says he opens up at 10 and closes at 9:30 at night. His favorite time of day would be early in the morning, when he arrives in his photo studio and has his first cigarette with a cup of hot coffee. But why don't you ask me what my favourite color is?
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8879/bigportrait.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 16 Apr 2006 20:54:23 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6880</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Map of between my house and studio</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6484</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 13 Apr 2006 16:38:04 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6484</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Where gold flows like water in the Nile</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6868</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   A short visit to the Nile Delta.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8880/gordijnlandschap.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 12 Apr 2006 20:34:42 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6868</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>In a land with different light</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6858</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Still trying to figure out how the light falls on the city. At a remarkably early hour the light softens and everything turns a red-orange-warm brown. At six the sun casting long shadows and painting everything gold.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8881/tegenlicht.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 12 Apr 2006 20:18:35 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6858</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Abdul always wears the same gray blouse</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6832</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   �������Hey, Jan, what do you want to drink?�������� he asks softly with his face slightly turned. 
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8882/abdulstanding.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 10 Apr 2006 20:00:03 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6832</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The city as a self-fulfilling prophecy</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6845</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Cairo is like a self-fulfilling prophecy. When I'm thirsty there's a stall where I can get something to drink. And when I'm hungry there's a restaurant. When I need a taxi I just stick out my hand and a car stops right beside me.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8883/vogelinhand.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 09 Apr 2006 20:08:53 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6845</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Everything is empty except for the streets</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6155</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   The first days in Cairo are silent. I know few people and have no appointments. Everything is empty except for the streets, which are filled with vehicles and people from early in the morning until deep into the night. The space this gives me to think, look and feel is something I never get the hang of in my own city. In Amsterdam everything closes after a little while and I always get entangled in a web of appointments and other apparent essentials. But in Cairo this has yet to become habitual. Here darkness comes as if it��������s never been dark before. The smells, my gestures, everything I do and see and feel is fresh.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8884/magazines.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 09 Apr 2006 12:49:51 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6155</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Arab Girl Turns Into A Terrifying Animal</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6786</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   The mind is for seeing, the heart is for hearing. (Egyptian proverb)
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8885/kangaroosmall.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 08 Apr 2006 13:37:14 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6786</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>What this neighborhood looks like</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6815</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   In the neighborhood around the Townhouse Gallery where I work there are all sorts of auto repair shops. One garage replaces windows, another does bodywork. What is striking is that none of the shops do everything. Each garage is specialized in one particular part of the car. So every screw, the rings, every engine part has its own place. So if you were to dismantle a car and open a garage for every part, you'd have a good impression of what this neighborhood looks like.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8886/viewfromtownhouse.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 07 Apr 2006 19:51:24 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6815</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Return of the chamsin; it's the dust!</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6804</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   The day starts out so beautifully, with a clear blue sky and a fresh wind blowing through the streets. But by about twelve o'clock I see deep orange clouds appear behind the apartment buildings. I point to the clouds and ask the boy standing next to me what that is. He looks at the sky, raises his nose in the air and says, &amp;quot;I can smell it already. It's the dust. We have another storm coming.&amp;quot;
Now it's getting warmer and warmer in the city. The cars in the streets move like syrup. People have stopped talking. The city shuts its eyes, the shutters close, everyone who is able to withdraws. The ochre-colored cloud now fills the sky overhead and encircles the city like static electricity.
The last chamsin (dust storm) lasted two and a half days. I had the feeling I was sealed up in an old vacuum cleaner bag.
The chamsin originates above the sandy desert in Saudi Arabia, where the air is warmer than here in the northern Sahara. As a result, the dry desert air above Saudi Arabia is sucked into the low pressure area above the Sahara. And poor Cairo waits with closed eyes until the wind dies down and the sun reappears through the haze of dust.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8887/img220.tif.jpeg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 06 Apr 2006 14:03:52 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6804</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Everybody knows somebody</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6422</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Cairo is a collection of looking glasses that I keep falling through. I discover layer after layer, each with its insights, possibilities and rules, yet the megalopolis just keeps on chugging along. It's much more of a people city than Paris or Amsterdam. Everything is connected through people. Everything can be done. Everybody knows somebody and each person knows everybody. It's as if there was this grand persona of gigantic proportions, a persona who lives in everyone and holds the whole city together.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8888/stratenhoofden.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 05 Apr 2006 16:48:18 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6422</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>To be the sound of this city</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6278</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   The smell of sound and the sound of music.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8889/paintedwall.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 05 Apr 2006 15:22:49 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6278</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The view from my apartment.</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6412</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   surprises on the clothesline
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8890/acrossstreet.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 02 Apr 2006 20:41:38 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6412</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>On its last legs.</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6399</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   I watched a cat die
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8893/jongensomarmd.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 30 Mar 2006 12:19:30 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6399</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Terrorist week</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6383</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   It's &amp;quot;Terrorist Week&amp;quot; on the National Geographic channel.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8894/manbidinmosk.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 28 Mar 2006 16:03:03 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6383</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>A bad tourist</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6357</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8895/legrillonsmile.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 27 Mar 2006 00:34:53 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6357</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The Mugamma building</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6773</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   At the southern end of Midab Tahrir an enormous gray office block looms like a gigantic toad. 
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8896/mugamma.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 26 Mar 2006 13:05:01 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6773</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Walking all the streets of Cairo</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6346</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   To learn Cairo by walking all its streets 
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8897/img329.tif.jpeg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 25 Mar 2006 18:27:18 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6346</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Islamic Cairo funeral</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6336</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8900/mannetje7.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 24 Mar 2006 10:17:32 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6336</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Singing metal detectors</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6326</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   My throat is swollen, I sneeze all the time, and this morning when I awoke, bathed in sweat from a dream in which everything was out of focus, my throat was irritated.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8901/2stedenuitmoonden.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 22 Mar 2006 16:12:26 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6326</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Soft steel bumpers</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6311</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   In some strange way I've become convinced that the cars are softer here.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8902/midantalaatharb.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 20 Mar 2006 16:02:04 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6311</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Chamsin, the dust storm</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6293</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Woke up this morning with a heavy head. Before opening my eyes my tongue begins searching in my mouth for the source of the strange taste. It finds sand that has accumulated behind my teeth. 
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8903/insectsmokeempty.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 18 Mar 2006 20:07:42 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6293</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Voices in the street below</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6267</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Down in the street someone's calling out something with a steady rhythm: &amp;quot;Ilyaaa..., Ilyaaa,&amp;quot; or something like that. I don't know what it means or what the man is selling, but it sounds lovely, that voice crying in the street. Something else I hear all the time is the sound of tapping on iron. At first I thought there was a coppersmith's workshop down in my street, but I've since discovered it's men selling bottled gas from their bicycles. There are no gas pipes in the houses here and most people cook with big canisters of butane fuel. The men who sell these metal canisters hit them with a wrench as they bike slowly through the streets. Ting ting ting. The competition is tough, because the tapping on the canisters begins early in the morning and goes on until late into the night. They wake me up all the time.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8905/gebouw_uit_mond_3.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2006 17:07:56 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6267</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Gathering noise</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6252</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   The sounds of the city are overwhelming. When I open the balcony doors of my apartment in the morning, the city is there like a great sucking machine: honking, an electric organ, and behind that the mix of everything too far away to hear distinctly. But I also hear things that I'm not used to hearing in a city, such as the sound of chickens and the bleating of goats, and last night when I was lying in bed I was convinced I heard a donkey braying on my roof.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8906/casettes.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 10 Mar 2006 03:58:45 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6252</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The land of smiles</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6241</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   slogans for a city
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8907/worldmapchairs.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 06 Mar 2006 13:48:53 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6241</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Welcome to Egypt</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6229</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Welcome to Egypt, young men say to me in the street, after which they want to shake my hand. It's nice that they want to welcome me on behalf of their country. When I tell them where I come from, I'm treated to a few phrases that are supposed to pass for Dutch. But that &amp;quot;welcome&amp;quot; is still moving, even if it's the only word they know.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8908/welcome.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 05 Mar 2006 16:42:39 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6229</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Prayers echoing over the city</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6204</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Outside the thousands of mosques start to sing. The first voices come from the distance in a wave that swells until the houses of prayer and mosques in my neighborhood join in, too. But as the voices still in the distance creep over the roofs along the apartment buildings in my direction, they make the size of the city perceptible for a split second, the way an echoing voice would do in a room without light.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8910/view_apt.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 05 Mar 2006 14:16:06 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6204</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The anonymous impossibility</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6216</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Every square meter is so densely populated that it��������s impossible to remain anonymous. 
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8912/2stedenuitmonden.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 28 Feb 2006 12:27:30 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6216</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Toothache and travel</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6680</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   I dream my whole set of teeth is falling apart.
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 24 Feb 2006 07:21:17 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6680</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Losing my feet.</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6192</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Every step that takes me further makes me lighter.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8913/schoenen_bart_low_res.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2006 20:05:50 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6192</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Everything is empty except for the streets</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6165</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   Darkness comes as if it's never been dark before.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8914/viaduct.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2006 13:54:30 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6165</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Novice Days</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6117</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   walking the streets in new shoes
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8916/manwalkinfronback.JPG;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2006 17:03:47 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6117</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>The pyramids were best seen from our left.</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6020</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   cairo initiation.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8918/twofaces.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2006 17:44:45 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6020</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>To become one with the city</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6106</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   �������Come on, city, take me with you. I��������m going to learn to understand your gestures and translate your misunderstandings, so you��������ll be mine, too.��������
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8920/gebouw_uit_mond_3_copy.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:47:34 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6106</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Excuse me? Human contact</title>
         <link>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6668</link>
	   <description><![CDATA[
	   traveling in 2006 is a clinical affair.
		     <img src="http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/mmbase/images/8921/sunglassesdisplay.jpg;jsessionid=1FEA37BA6DAEA6E5D3F1B5BDE3C9B436" border="0" align="right" />
	   ]]> </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2006 01:00:41 GMT</pubDate>
         <guid>http://roadtrip.submarinechannel.com/content/view.jsp?itemid=6668</guid>
      </item>
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