Learn How To Repair Airconditioners

What to do now

2009-03-11T14:19:00.000-07:00

So the weather is great!!! or maybe it iis already getting a little warm or maybe you even still have some snow on the ground.
You don't have to worry about your Air Conditioner right, wrong. Now is the time to take action to make sure you have a trouble free cooling season, but how?
If you wait on your system to fail it will do it when it is hot, usually very hot. What happens when it is very hot. Service companies are very busy, some parts are not available, and your downtime will stretch, sometimes for days.
Now is the time for you to take some simple steps to save yourself a lot of heartache and misery later. Follow the link above to find some simple answers to frequently asked questions, start your system to check to see if there are any problems and clean it. Take a hose and clean as much debris as you can off the outdoor coils, also clean the drain and if you feel confident take the cover off the indoor coil, carefully slide it out and clean it.
These three simple cleaning operations will cure 90% of what could possibly go wrong with your system.
Then make sure you replace your filter with a clean one (monthly during peak useage)
and you can make your way to a trouble free and cool season.

Which way do I go

2009-01-08T06:31:00.000-08:00

Questioner: Leroy
Category: Heating, Air Conditioning, Fridge, HVAC
Private: No

Subject: inducer fan running backwards
Question: QUESTION: While helping a friend replace the main fan motor of his gas furnace, I noticed that the inducer fan was turning the wrong direction. The unit had been operating like this for approx 6 years. we switched the wires, and the fan ran in the correct direction (verified by checking the airflow at the flue). what are the issues with this condition? was it pushing the exhaust into the house? are their efficiency issues? how could it have operated all this time with that condition?
thanks!

ANSWER: It wasn't doing anything just spinning and I cannot imagine the furnace working like that so it must be a recent failure. If it is a capacitor motor (PSC) then the capacitor may be bad if it is a shaded pole motor (no cap) they will do that sometimes you need to go ahead and replace the motor as it will fail soon.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: This wasn't a recent failure... it has been operating like this for 6 years. we swapped the wires on the draft inducer fan motor and it was definitely pushing the air up the flue. only the main blower motor has a capacitor. We replaced both the main fan motor and its capacitor, and only after we checked that the new blower motor was working properly and everything was spinning down did I notice that the draft inducer fan was spinning in the wrong direction.

ANSWER: Like I said I have a hard time believing a furnace would run for 6 minutes let alone 6 years with a draft inducer running in the reverse direction.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I know it is hard to believe, but we both saw it spin the wrong direction. We switched the wires (there are only two wires for that motor) and when we started the heat cycle, it was turning the correct direction. we removed the sheet metal flue and could feel that it was in fact blowing out the vent. the only thing we didn't do was reverse the wires again (to their original configuration) to check the air flow at the vent.

Answer: I am not questioning that is was turning backwards, as I said shaded pole motors often do this when they are getting ready to fail. I just think it happened recently. A draft inducer utilizes a wheel instead of a propeller blade and if you turn a wheel backwards it doesn't move any air at all as the horizontal blades on the outside of the wheel are turning against the outside of the curve instead of the inside, it is like trying to shovel sand with the back of the shovel, it's easier to do but not quite as effective.

Making Your Money Work for You

2008-11-29T18:47:00.000-08:00

If we are to believe that the economic times are the worst we have seen then you would be smart to make very good cost effective decisions concerning everything to do with your home, including the indoor comfort system repair and maintenance.
So how do you keep from getting taken advantage of. Well believe it or not just as in every other field of endeavour in this integrity challenged world. Most Heating and Air conditioning contractors are honest and trustworthy, but there are a few bad actors and you need a little knowledge to make sure you are making good, well informed decisions.
First of all don't be in a hurry. In anything you do if a salesperson of any character senses urgency on your part they will treat the situation differently. take your time you can find the answer to any question in minutes with the internet and there are many contractors willing to give you a second opinion.
Make sure you know a little before you call, there are many forums and manufacturers help sites available and people are willing to help you know what questions to ask and what to look for.
If a service company representative is not willing to help you understand exactly what is going on then call someone else. You need to find someone with the willingness to teach.
More on this subject in the next post.

Safe, Cost Effective Winter Comfort

2008-11-24T18:03:00.000-08:00

A little winter time survival advice.

Furnaces older than 15 years might be due for a replacement. For younger furnaces make sure the furnace filter is clean, the thermostat is working properly and the pilot light is functioning. Homeowners can also hire an inspector to do the job and make sure the furnace is in safe working order.

Ducts should be cleaned once every two years. Homeowners should also consider adding insulation to any exposed ductwork. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a home with central heating can lose up to 60 percent of its heated air before that air reaches the vents if ductwork is not well-connected and insulated, or if it travels through unheated spaces.

Before lighting up, homeowners planning on using their fireplace come winter should have the chimney inspected for animals, debris and leaves that may have fallen in. BBB also recommends installing a screen over the chimney opening.

Gutters should be cleaned to prevent any clogs that would cause rainwater to back up and freeze, making the gutters expand and crack. The ridge vents need to be cleaned as well in order to allow the house to "breath" correctly. Otherwise, air will stagnate and create an unhealthy environment.

The average home has air leaks that amount to a nine-square-foot hole in the wall. To prevent leaks, homeowners should inspect the caulking around windows and doors and check for cracking and peeling. In addition, ensure that doors and windows shut tightly and no cold air is coming in due to worn down weather stripping.

Emergency kit. When a winter storm strikes, an emergency kit should have all essential materials in one handy place. An emergency kit should include flashlights, candles and matches, a first aid kit, bottled water, non-perishable food and a battery-powered radio. Create the same emergency kit for the car as well, including several blankets.

Heat is a poppin

2008-11-18T03:32:00.000-08:00

Hi there, last night I noticed that it was really warm in the living room. I went to the thermostat(digital) and noticed it was 23 degrees! I turned it down to like 18, but the baseboard heater would not shut off. It kept running and running no matter how low I put the thermostat. All of a sudden I heard PACK! at the baseboard heater. I ran to the electrical room and noticed the breaker did not shut, so i shut it right away.

I checked the baseboard heater and found the ground wire and blown off the screw.

I have one new 2000watt baseboard heater and one new 1000watt basebard heater running off the one new digital thermostat.

Any sugestions on what caused the baseboard heater to keep running, and why the ground wire blew off, and why the breaker did not shut down?

Any info is greatly appreciated, it will be really cold tonight and I still have't turned the breaker back on!!!

Answer.
The breaker did not open because the circuit is imprperly grounded, the wire blew off, probably because ther is a short in that heater. It is kind of coincidental that a thermostat would go bad at the same time as the heater failure so I would blame the overheat on that heater for now until you prove different. A few possibilities are that the heater is improperly wired or that there was just a failure inside but my guess is improper wiring.

Follow up.
Hi Mike. Thanks for the quick response.

Just to clarify a few things...when you say the circuit is improperly grounded, do you mean at the baseboard heater?

A breaker will not trip if it is not grounded correctly?

I forgot to mention that both baseboard heaters would not turn off, so more likely it is the thermostat??

Answer.
If the circuit is properly grounded and there is a short circuit, the breaker will trip. That is the way it is supposed to work. I do think the thermostat is probably bad it is just kind of coincidental. I think the grounding problem is between the heater and the breaker box

Heating or Air Conditioning the world starts staying inside

2008-11-08T21:59:00.000-08:00

I of course am in the air conditioning business we work on furnaces and refrigeration equipment also, but I must be honest and tell you I feel that indoor comfort control while a nice luxury has drastically changed society, and not for the better.
I just read an Australian report since 1994 residential air conditioning has increased from 15 to 58% this mirrors what happened in the U.S. in the 80's. I witnessed this and like everything else we do you never know what the impact will be until you are in it.
I remember people who grew up in major metropolitan areas in the 50's and 60's and they would tell stories of the summers when they could walk down the sidewalk during any summer day and never miss pitch of there favorite teams ballgame that day because everyone had the game on the radio and of course their windows were open. All the kids were on the street and all the mothers were in the yard.
I myself grew up in a small town we never had air conditioning until I was 14 years old all the families were in their yards or on the porches until late evening and our relatives in the country the same way every house you drove by you knew who lived there because they were all on the porch and waved at you when you went by.
Yes I know things change and I am tilting at windmills but this is just an observation from someone who sees our kids living completely different lives than we did and neighborhoods with little or no connection except for the water, sewer and electrical.
I'm just sayin.

BRRR!!!

2008-10-25T21:42:00.000-07:00

It's getting cold out there, hopefully not inside your house. If so it is time to start thinking about what you are going to do about it. If you have a gas furnace you can call your utility provider and they should come and start it up without charge. If there are any serious issues they will alert you then you can decide whether to call a service company or to try to fix it yourself.
Most times a good cleaning will go a long way. Opening up the combustion chamber on an older furnace and cleaning it out with a shop vacuum does not take a technician. You can check for loose or burnt and corroded wires. Look for any evidence that the heat from combustion is where it is not supposed to be. If it is you can look for any obvious issues with your venting (rusty or perforated vent pipes or blocked or disconnected vents) if you do not see anything obvious you will probably want to call a pro here because you may have a failed heat exchanger and this could lead to cobustion product getting into your home.
If you have an electric system you will want to shut the power off and check every!! electrical connection inside the unit. Electric heat by it's very nature (wires getting hot) generates heat on the wires. This is made worse by loose or corroded connections which generate more heat. If you are successful DO It Yourselfer there are many places to get help if you have specific problems. Here are just a few,
http://forum.doityourself.com/forumdisplay.php?f=129
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/hvac/
http://www.bobvila.com/wwwboard/wwwboard.html
http://www.howtorepairairconditioners.com/homeowner-cries/fans-hvac-variable-speed-unit-furnace.html

I just turned on the heat for the first time and my furnace won't light

2008-10-23T19:09:00.000-07:00

Questioner: Steve
Category: Heating, Air Conditioning, Fridge, HVAC
Private: No

Subject: ignition problem - Goodman GMNT100-4 furnace
Question: QUESTION: Hi Mike - I stumbled across this site while trouble shooting my Goodman GMNT100-4 furnace and thought I would give it a try. This is a used furnace that I had installed in my workshop (professional install) - it has been in place for almost 2 years without any issue. It is also fueled by Propane.

When the thermostat trips, it turns on the furnace as normal . The blower motor kicks in (draft motor?). The ignitor begins to glow a short time after this, and then the gas valve supplies gas. This is where things start to go wrong. There are 5 "burners" / tubes. The first one with the ignitor begins to burn the propane, but the other 4 tubes never begin to burn.

I pulled the front cover so I could watch the circuit board and after it cycles a few times, it shuts down and the indicator light blinks once indicating failed ignition (yeap, it failed to ignite properly). Listed problems include gas pressure and ignitor. The ignitor is new.

I did check the obvious and the propane tank (500 gallon) is 40 percent full. I did not check pressure post regulator as I have no easy way to do that currently.

Am I looking at a propane regulator problem or is it possible it is the gas valve itself? Any other thoughts?

This problem started gradually and now it will not ignite fully at all.

Ideas?

ANSWER: Your igniter is definitely not bad as it is getting hot. So move to the next problem you are not getting complete ignition, the possible causes are obviously improper fuel pressure ( you need to be able to check this to properly diagnose), Restricted fuel delivery (plugged orifices, screens or strainers), too much or too little combustion air (bad heat exchanger). So where do we go from here, first because you do not have any pressure diagnostic equipment you can theorize about fuel pressure but without knowing that is just a rabbit hole and has to be saved for last. So that leaves you with restriction or improper combustion air. We need to recognize that we are talking about issues of safety first so with resriction you can easily take off all the burner orifices and get a torch cleaning kit or fine wire and make sure everything is clear then move to combustion air. Because your system is not shutting down on your draft motor or pressure switch it is not likely that you have a bad fan or blockage so that leads me to a possible bad heat exchanger. Make sure your indoor fan is not running while the furnace is trying to light. If it is not then cobustion air is probably not an issue. If it is and when you make sure the fan is shut off the furnace lights ok then that is a red flag for heat exchanger issues and you need to get a new furnace. If none of this advice works you need to get proper pressure testing equipment and make sure your fuel pressure matches the design parameters on the information plate of your furnace. I know that is a lot of information but that is just some of the things you have to consider when you are working on this equipment.

Heating start up problems

2008-10-17T21:58:00.000-07:00

JANITROL DEPENDABLE NINETY TWO FURNACE-HELP!!!!!!!! PLEASE?
I moved into a house that needed a (bit of work) this past march 08...the house has a Janitrol dependable ninety two furnace. (Model number-GMN080-4)

when I first fired it up ran great...used it clear up to june 08'...and then I just turned the theromostat down and turned off the fan and forgot all about it ....nerver turned the gas off or the main power..didn't think I needed to.

yesterday I went down in the basement, checked everything out, visually everything looked ok, gas was on, power at switch was on, so I came back upstairs tured on the fan and raised the temp level to about 75.....I heard the fan kick on, however no heat.

I went back down and started fiddling around..nothing...I called a friend who works for a heating company....he installs systems...(not a service tech) he noticed that there was a little red flashing light....the light was blicking three times .....according to the troubleshooting guide on the inside panel this indicated that

pressure switch failure to close..and sugessted to check venter pressure switch vent blockage

so we took the pressure switch off..checked for blockage..replaced it....tried to fire furnace....it seemed to take off normally....only this time the ignitor came on , glowing orange....but the gas valve never opened....(note:on my pressure switch..there are only two orange wires ...one on the common, and one on a prong marked no)

my friend went back to his place of work and found a switch on another unit from an old job, that looked basically the same and brought it back.....on this switch it had three wires...male prongs marked c, nc, and no.....we hooked it up and tried again...this time the fan kicked on, then we heard some clicking as the ignitor came on, then the gas valve opened and poof...we had heat...yeah!!!!!.....so I thought.

he left, then I left for diner, when I came back....the fan was running...but no heat, and the house was cool, so I knew it had not run very long after I left...I went back downstairs...tried to get to fire...nothing.

however I was playing with the pressure switch.....I pulled the wire on the common post....it took off like it should....again short lived..so I switched the wires around on the switch since there is no distinctive markings to signify which was which(there both orange).....anyway again same as above it fired but briefly......

tonight we messed with it again..only this time we got the three blicks code...pulled the vent tube..it was clear...the fan was blowing strong.....
got it to take off..only this time the ignitor would come on but the gas valve never did open......and we got no heat...we got nothing...if any one is familiar with this brand of furnace..and can understand what may be happening..i need your help before it gets to cold....thank you.

Wow a lot of info for a change I appreciate that. Anyway it sounds like you have a problem with the way your pressure switch is working but the trick is you have a 90 plus furnace and there are a lot of things that can make a pressure switch fail to close on a 90 plus. You need to make sure the drainage system is clear as water in the heat exchanger will cause the symptoms you describe. also you need to make sure the venting is clear all the way to the outside of the house. Then you need to check the draft inducer to make sure it is running properly and the blower wheel is intact, I know that is a lot to think about but if it was easy everyone would do it.
no were the tube goes into the induction motor take a wire and clear the trash thats in there blocking also check flue pipe make sure you dont have a birds nest in there you are on the right track but you need to make sure it has a way to vent.

No Air In Here

2008-10-14T18:55:00.000-07:00

We have a Rheem air conditioner, and we just moved in about two months ago. Earlier this week, we noticed that while we set our thermostat on about 76, it has not changed the temperature in our home, which remains about 88 degrees. I checked the thermostat, and it's fine. I changed the air filter, and turned the electricity at the circuit breaker on and off, like the thermostat's website suggested. It's not cooling our house, and I'm at a loss as to what to do now. Is there anything else I can do to fix the problem, or do I need to call in a professional repair firm? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

You need to go outside and see if the outdoor unit is running, check the breakers or fuses. If you feel comfortable tell me what you find otherwise call a reputable company for service. There are many possibilities but I need more information to help. It could be as simple as a loose wire or as complex as a pc board bad.

What is Air Conditioning

2008-10-10T22:31:00.000-07:00

Air conditioning and Heating (home comfort) is one of those things we have grown accustomed to, something we seem to take for granted.

For those who aren't familiar with the terms, a central air conditioner works from a central location to distribute conditioned air throughout a house.

Unlike a small, window- or wall-mounted room air conditioner, designed to cool a small area, a central air conditioner borrows a central air handling unit such as a forced air furnace or heat pump and ductwork for whole-house delivery. The related heat pump is essentially a central air conditioner that can be reversed in winter to heat a house.

Cooling capacity

Manufacturers produce air conditioners in a variety of sizes, typically measured in "tons" or "BTUs per hour."

A BTU (British Thermal Unit) is a common unit used for measuring heat output, equal to the amount of energy required to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. One ton equals 12,000 BTUs/hour-a term derived from the amount of energy required to melt 1 ton of ice in a day.

Continued in next post

Mexican Air

2008-10-09T10:24:00.000-07:00

Q.
HelpThisGirl We have a York window A/C 12000 btu 220 volt
model Y7USC12-6R , yes mexican model, we are in a mexican resort town trying to fix this

The 2 bushings for the motor are bad.
We can not access the screws or bolts to remove the fan and blower to remove the motor because the condenser coil and evaporator coil are flush up against the fan and blower, and both are in a housing.
looks pretty much like this
http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/...dow-unit-1.jpg

I have 2 questions
1) Can just the bushings be replaced on the motor ? new motor is almost as much as a new a/c

2) How do we get the coils out of the way to get to the fan screws or bolts to remove them. Can we bend the tubes or do the tubes need to be cut ? We would like to take the motor out ourselves. Can't seem to get a repair person to come out in this town:

any help you can give this girl would be greatly appreciated
thank you in advance

A.
If you cut those lines you will find out that was a bad idea so don't do it. take all the screws out of the coil enclosure and gently pull the coils out of the way being careful not bend the tubing too sharply or it will fold and it is all over. Then you will be able to acces whatever set screw or other holding device holds th blade in place. Mark the shaft with a sharpie or scratch all where the blade is placed before you remove the blade and blower wheel so you do not have to remember. Now remove the motor, you can replace the bushings or bearings whatever the case may be and that is the only cost effective way to make this repair because when you buy a new motor and factor in your time smart money buys a new unit, as a matter of fact many would say smart money buys a new unit anyway but if you have the time and the tools and you are in a mexican resort town, why not?

Changing Filters is important, but...

2008-10-07T19:04:00.000-07:00

Changed filter but A/C won't run

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The digital thermostat said to change the filter and the A/C would not run. So I turned the dial to "filter" which turns the thermostat off, changed the filter, then set it back to "run." It still says "change filter" and still will not run. I cut off the power supply to the thermostat hoping it would reset and would work again, but that didn't work. I'm not sure what else to do. The thermostat still works, and the A/C ran just fine prior to the "change filter" indication on the thermostat. Please help!

Air Conditioning Problems

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The "Change Filter" function on your thermostat is just a timer, it has nothing to do with the operation of your system. You may have a battery operated thermostat that will still operate when the unit has no power, so start from scratch.
Check your breakers then go to your furnace switch or disconnect, then proceed to your control circuitry (fuse on PC board or trasformer there are several different things to check but do not be distracted by the change filter light.

Frustrated Homeowner asks for help

2008-10-06T21:23:00.000-07:00

Originally Posted by parkave
Hello mike I need your help.

My central air inside and outside is running but the air is not cold.When the outside unit come on you can feel the heat above the fan but after 2 minutes the sound is very low and no heat above the fan. A tech told me he thinks the compressor is good but the pipe from the compressor outside is clogged and he needs to empty it of freon,cut the pipe and clear the line.He said if its not that he think a line in the air handler is blocked. Please do you think this could be the problem if not what do you think.

Thanks.
It is entirely possible that you do have a restriction in the refrigerant circuit. If that is the case you should have high head pressure with high subcooling and low suction pressure with high superheat.
You may want to throw these terms out when you are talking to your service person and see what kind of response you get.
Good Morning Mike,
I think you are 100% right because he was having a lot of problem while trying to charge the system.He retrieve all the freon,then he used nitrogen to find a leak and blow out the line, but when he was replacing the freon I notice he was having a problem because he use a bucket of water and a lot of ice and after that the air from the ducts were warm and he said it would get cold after a while. It never so I turn it off.

Hope this shed a little more info and thanks but kinly let me know your professional advice .

parkave
If this person works for a large reputable company then call their office, describe the situation and ask for another tech. If they are a good company this will red flag them and they will send out a "call back guy"
this is a very experienced tech who is used to cleaning up other peoples messes.
If as you described the person at your house was using ice water he must not have been adding refrigerant he must have been trying to recover without a recovery machine.
If the company won't send someone else then you may have to just call another company and take your lumps it is very unfortunate but depending on the part of the country you are in there are a whole bunch of people in this business who have not been properly trained.
Mike,

I thank you very much for your professional help and valuable time. I have a new tech coming tomorrow who will do what you recommended and he thought was a possibility and as soon as everything I will contact you.
Again THANKS A MILLION
Parkave

Home Warranty Air Conditioning Repair

2008-10-03T20:54:00.000-07:00

It starts when you have problems with a major appliance. You call the home warranty company and they send out a service company.
3 weeks ago we were told that our compressor was dead, since then we have called every couple of days with no clear answer. Finally we just called another company and got it fixed.
This is an all too familiar problem, Home warranties are pushed by real estate agents and others in the home buying process. The sellers receive a commission for closing a sale the home buyer is happy at the time because they are told that they receive this great coverage for a great low price (typically less than $250) so this is a win-win right, well at the time.
Then some time over the next year the customer has a problem, the warranty company answers the call right away and dispatches a local contractor to help. One would suspect that a nationwide company would hire a top shelf contractor, that is a bad assumption. Most reputable contractors charge rates which allow them to offer their employees fair wages with good benefits while making a 7-15% profit, these numbers don't work with home warranty companies. In order for them to make money they need to make minimum repairs and have those repairs done by low budget contractors.
This does not make them all bad most times any time you use your home warranty for any kind of repair you will get at least the value of what you paid so you should not be surprised when you get what you pay for.
The problem comes when customers expect to get a new unit worth $2500 when they bought a policy that cost them $250, that kind of math is what caused our current economic trouble.
Air conditioning repair especially causes quite a few problems in these situations. There are so many lower skilled contractors in the business and the insurers need to utilize these contractors to make their numbers work. This situation makes for some interesting customer interactions

What is that Noise

2008-10-02T20:40:00.000-07:00

I've been hearing a loud whistle sound that comes from the outdoor part of my home A/C system. It seems to cool just fine but makes that noise when it shuts off. It doesn't sound like a belt slipping but more like a high pressure gas release of some sort. Is this something I need to worry about? (can I fix it?)

Sounds like you have a heat pump that is equalizing when it shuts off this is not unusual but the noise being annoying is a concern, one possibility is that your head pressure is very high. You need to check your outdoor coil and make sure it is clean and your outdoor fan is running. Hopefully you haven't had service work done recently and the system got overcharged. The other possibility is the reversing valve is not coming back all the way when the solenoid releases, this could be a serious problem turn your system to heat and make sure your heat pump works all right, this may alleviate the problem but if not and your heat works you can decide to live with the noise or replace the reversing valve.

How did my Air Conditioner Freeze Up

2008-09-30T14:10:00.000-07:00

When a persons Air conditioner freezes up they have a hard time figuring out why, well here are some low tech explanations that I think will make sense to you.
When your air conditioner runs it has a pupose and this purpose is to take the heat out of your house the way it does that is to transfer that heat energy into another substance besides your air, for the purpose of this explanation we will use refrigerant more commonly known by the dupont brand name Freon.
In order for energy to transfer you need to have a temperature difference and when you supply that temperature difference the energy will move from the hot substance to the cooler substance until both are the same temperature. When you put an ice cube in your hand your hand gets cold right? What happens to the poor ice cube, it picks up heat until it can't absorb anymore then you have a wet hand right.
To trasfer the heat energy out of the air in your house we usually use the refrigerant flowing through a series of copper coils pressed together with aluminum fins called an evaporator or indoor coil. With the refrigerant at the right pressure in this coil the corresponding temperature will typically be 38-45 degrees, so that when you draw your 75-80 degree air across it you will pick up heat as we discussed earlier. Because that coil temperature is below what is called the dew point of the air in your house in addition to giving up heat the air will also relieve itself of moisture or precipitate. This moisture travels down the coil to the drain and everything works as it should. When a freeze up occurs a couple of things happen that aren't supposed to.

1. your coil temperature gets below freezing

2. the water that is precipitating out of your air is not water anymore it's ice

There could be a couple of explanations for this
1. The most common reason for a freeze up is your filter is dirty (and you will feel so foolish if you call a service person out to your home and he pulls the dirty filter out and charges you $100 so don't let this happen to you). Your air conditioner is designed for a certain amount of airflow and anything less than that will cause the coil temperature to drop because you air not drawing enough warm air across it to give the refrigerant heat to pick up.

2.The second reason your coil might freeze up is low refrigerant pressure jusst like low airflow not providing enough heat for the system low refrigerant pressure does not provide enough transfer media (refrigerant) for the system the coil temperature drops in the first part of the coil while it rises in the rest of it, but that cold part starts ice and works its way up the coil over time.

These are not the only reasons just the most common. Low airflow may be caused by duct obstructions, a bad fan motor,a coil that is very dirty or too many of the supply grilles closed.
Low refrigerant pressure is caused by leaks or obstructions in the system.

If you want to save money the next time you have a freeze up check these things out.

Homeowner Cries for Help

2008-09-29T20:58:00.000-07:00

I have a old White Rodgers Furnace however this year I go to turn my furnace on and the the heat kicks on and off as it should however the blower stays on and refuses to turn off. I learned if i tap the furnace it goes off every time. If the furnace is not on I can put the the Fan in Auto and On and it will turn on and off but not once the Furnace heat kicks it on then I have no control to turn it off. Please any suggestions. Online i read possible sensor or fan limit switch.

It is definitely your fan/limit switch which is a bi metal coil which as it heats and cools of course expands and contracts and as it does that it turns the controller itself and makes or breaks contact. When they fail the coil does not have the strength to turn the wheel as the wheel corrodes and gets dirty. You may be able to lubricate it with spray lubricant and turn the wheel slowly back and forth a couple of times and get it to work, but to get a new one and replace it is a simple operation and very easy to get to. Just make sure you clip the small wire at the bottom because if your fan circuit is 24 volts which it probably is that wire must be cut to prevent sending line voltage to the control side of the transformer.

When Smoke Gets in your Eyes

2008-09-28T18:16:00.000-07:00

I rent an apartment upstairs from the landlord who smokes - we each have our own forced air oil furnace - but I get a smoke smell (cigarette) and occassionaly an oily chemical smell in addition to alot of dust and soot- I'm trying to convince the landlord to get the furnace professionally serviced before this winter - but he says he can't smell anything and isn't keen to look into it. In the meantime i'm trying to work out what would be the best filter for my furnace to cut down on these odors? I have some carbon impregnated register filters but i'm curious whether a electrostatic and carbon filter combo or a merv12 filter would be better?
Thanks.

You are probably not going to make much of an impact with any kind of normal filtration. You will probably have to get a clean effects or something like that utilizing multiple technologies and that may be cost prohibitive in a rental situation. Sorry for the bad news I have just seen too many people spend money and still have the problem they started with.
There are systems used in bars and restaurants that will eliminate most of by products of smoke and VOC's but they are pretty expensive which is why you only see them in nicer places here is a link to one brand http://www.purennatural.com/fs.php?center=smoke-eaters/smokeeater.php there are a few others check for some reviews on line

Is your air making you sick

2008-09-27T01:38:00.000-07:00

The term air conditioning refers to the cooling and dehumidification of indoor air for thermal comfort in buildings and motor vehicles. We usually call them A/C or aircon that keep us comfortable in our indoor environments. Aside from added comfort, air conditioners may cause several health hazards. In fact, the problems associated with air conditioners arise out of overuse.

Air conditioning exaggerates the effects of arthritis and neuritis. It also causes problem for those with sinus trouble, causing their heads to become blocked. In addition to these obvious reactions to an air conditioned environment there are many far more delicate reactions that can adversely affect a person's health.

Studies between those who have worked for prolonged periods in air conditioned offices and those who work outdoors have shown that the people exposed to air conditioning are more prone to colds, flu and other minor ailments. It has also been seen that the body undergoes a certain amount of stress when it is forced to go from a very hot environment into an air conditioned one; eventually this can cause problems.

It is also clear that those who spend too much time in an air conditioned situation are not able to readily cope with hot temperatures. Indeed many people have been made unwell by extreme variances between outside and inside temperatures.

Air conditioners in cars also have some problems. According to a researcher (American Automobile Safety Organisation), extended exposure to car air conditioner may cause drowsiness and not being able to concentrate on driving.

Micro-organisms have been found within the units that may cause breathing problems. Researchers at Louisiana State Medical Center identified eight different types of mold living inside of 22 of 25 cars tested.

Air conditioning units can also circulate air-borne diseases, such as Legionairre's Disease. Without proper filtration or maintenance a typical system will simply recirculate pollutants.

However, spending just a few hours a day in an air-conditioned room is not harmful for one's health. But, if air conditioners are not well maintained, they can cause some very serious problems. A dirty air filter can harbor pollen, fungi and bacteria and allow millions of microorganisms into the room, possibly triggering an asthma attack, irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat — even flu like illness.Some simple maintenance steps will help alleviate these problems. It is better to vacuum the air filter every two to four weeks and then wash it in soapy water. Be sure to let the filter dry completely before reinstalling it.

Another successful Do It Yourselfer

2008-09-25T19:28:00.000-07:00

Sport
Need Help Please Central AC Wires Burning
Noticing my air blowing warm I checked the outside unit. And the 3 wires that connect to my tank (I think my compressor) have burned off completely at the connection. The wires are Red, Black and Yellow. I think a lizard got caught between them so it shorted them out. So I replaced the connectors and AC started up fine. But after about 6 hour AC went out again. I check and its the same thing. Please anything else I can look for or do. really don't have the money for a repairman at this time. Thanks Below are Pictures so you can see and help a little easier.

If you use regular wire terminations they will burn up again it is just a matter of time. You need to purchase compressor wire terminations. Termlok is one brand name, there are others. Go to an HVAC supply house near you pick up terminations and rewire. After you get it wired right replace the contactor and capacitor (cheap insurance) and then clean your outdoor coil and you should be fine, good luck.

I took your advices and everything seem to work out fine. I went to United Refrigeration Inc and purchased the Termlok Connector repair kit (which came with the wires, connector pins with screws) for 34.99. I cleaned the compressor pins of any corrosion (being careful) and connected everthing checking it twice Thanks again for all your help, saved alot of money and headache with waiting on a repair. Thanks again.

Commercial Business save everyday you run your Air Conditioner

2008-09-24T18:44:00.001-07:00

Smartcool Systems Inc. is an advanced energy conservation solutions company that specializes in energy and cost reduction technologies for commercial and retail businesses. The company's wholly owned subsidiary, Smartcool International Inc., is the owner, developer, manufacturer and worldwide distributor of the Energy Saving Module (ESM)™. This green technology reduces the electricity consumption (Kwh) and maximum demand (KW) of air conditioning and refrigeration compressors. Rather than replacing existing equipment, the ESM™ works in conjunction with existing controls in order to ensure that compressors work at maximum efficiency, while maintaining preset temperature levels and without causing over-cycling. This process, known as "Compressor Optimization" can reduce compressor runtime by more than 30% and electricity consumption and demand by up to 20%.

Rising global energy demand is resulting in significant increases in energy prices. Environmental concerns are causing both government and industry to re-examine the way they do business. With licensed distributors in nine countries and exports to many more, Smartcool provides organizations around the world with solutions to address the growing pressure to reduce energy costs, increase profits and decrease greenhouse gas emissions. Over 25,000 ESM™ units have been installed throughout the world since 1986 and the ESM™ is utilized by some of the worlds leading corporations such as Tesco Supermarkets, Telstra Corporation, and Gate Gourmet, to name only a few.

Greencore Solar Air Conditioning

2008-09-23T07:10:00.000-07:00

Greencore Technology, Inc., formerly Aquacell Technologies, Inc. announced they had installed Greencore 10200 solar powered DC air conditioner at a metro PCS cell tower site. The Greencore system has replaced one of two 4 ton air conditioners an the cellular base station housing the electronic transmission and data equipment. Initial analysis has demonstrated that the Greencore 10200 provides comparable cooling capacity to the 4 ton unit it replaced.
"We are extremely encouraged by the initial reports we have received on the performance of our solar air conditioner at the metroPCS cell tower site," said Kevin Spence GreenCore's President and Chief Financial Officer. "The power consumption of the traditional air conditioning units used at cell site locations is quite significant, as they have not been designed to conserve energy. Replacing just one of the two air conditioners on cell tower base stations with the GreenCore solar air conditioner will provide significant reduction in grid power consumption and its related cost, in addition to providing emergency cooling capability in the event of a power outage."
The GreenCore solar powered DC air conditioner ( www.greencoreair.com) combines the most efficient photovoltaic technology with DC engineered air conditioning innovation to provide climate control that does not contribute to greenhouse gas emissions and global warming. The system has been designed to efficiently operate completely grid-free or as a hybrid air conditioning unit.

My Air Conditioner is noisy Help me stop it

2008-09-21T13:23:00.000-07:00

joe1234
Member

Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 7
Trane XE1000 Condenser Noise Level
Hi.

I have a 10 year old rane XE1000 which is very noisy. It works just fine, but it has progressevly gotten noiser.

Anyone know what the db decible noise level of this unit is? I looked through my manual and it does not say.

I like to know what the db is since I am shopping for another condenser and want to compare.

Thank you,
Joe

mike n mike n is online now
Member

Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 230
Shhhh;
I am sure somewhere in the technical data you may find the noise levels although I have not seen but maybe that is because I haven't looked. First let us deal with what you have there are many reasons why an outdoor unit might be noisy.
Bad bearings or loose components on a condensor fan, liquid refrigerant flooding back into a compressor, outdoor coil dirty causing both condensor and fan to overwork.
Put in a new filter, clean your coils and lubricate and tighten your condensor fan motor and blade (if it can be lubricated).
Restart the system and see if it is any quieter and know if you do purchase new equipment anything you get is going to be alot quieter than what you have and the more you spend on efficiency the more the manufacturers are willing to do concerning noise reduction and warranty improvement.

2008-09-20T09:05:00.000-07:00

Hmeowners Cries for Help

I have a 3-year-old home with a walkout basement. The air conditioner is on the master bedroom side of the house and mounted up on a rack that holds it off the ground and level with the first floor. When the air conditioner kicks on, it makes a very loud sound. It wakes me up every time it kicks on and keeps me awake while it is running. Is there anyway to mask/reduce the noise so it isn't so noticeable in the bedroom.

The location of the outdoor unit does not concern me as much as the noise if we are talking about normal start up noise it may be that you have a lower quality unit. If we are talking about noise that sounds like metal on metal (clanking) then we need to think about a damaged compressor or refrigerant floodback on start up.
Look at the system airflow first because that is the easiest and cheapest to remedy. Is the filter clean or are there any other airflow obstructions.