Leopard Gecko Guy

Variety is the spice of leopard gecko life?

2012-01-17T10:20:00.000-08:00

Leopard geckos feed primarily on an insect based diet. This diet keeps them active and interested in hunting most of the time. However wild leopard geckos eat all kinds of insects (anything that fits in their mouths) so

Feeding your leopard gecko the same type of prey week in week out can have an effect on the activeness at which it hunts prey. Feeding the same insects can make the gecko go off its food and not eat as much as it should.

Leopard geckos are usually easily stimulated by the variety of food on offer and by the way you present the food to them. Offer differrent types of prey to your gecko and you could see a more active hunter. I use a feeding schedule a little like the one below. It may be very basic with just 3 prey items but it has really been successful in stimulating natural hunting and my leopard geckos are very active hunters.

Sample Schedule

Monday: Locusts

Tuesday: Crickets

Wednesday: Locust (Waxworm every second week)

Thursday: Crickets

Friday: Locusts

Saturday: Crickets

Sunday: Locusts

This is a simple shecdule but you replace aspects with other live foods such as mealworm. So if your leopard gecko ever goes off its food, try them on something else. It could be bored with its current food and wants a change.

Keeping your crickets healthy

2012-01-07T08:19:00.000-08:00

Keeping your crickets (or any live food) is essential to the overall health of your leopard geckos. When properly gut loaded they become much more nutritious and provide lots of the essential minerals and vitamins that your gecko needs in a natural. When you supplement them with calcium powder they become a 'super food'. Without feeding your crickets your gecko won't get any added nutrients from them which they would get if the crickets were being fed themselves.

So what should you feed your crickets to make them as nutritional as possible? Well because crickets devour anything its very easy to get them to eat a good diet. There are lots of commercial foods available to buy which you feed your crickets. These come in a variety of different forms and usually have high amounts of calcium and essential nutrients in them. To give your crickets a drink use 'bug gel' which is great for providing safe drinking water which and will result in less drowned crickets. Drowned crickets are usually the result of using a small plastic container full of water (bottle cap or jar lid) .

So what can you feed your crickets? Here are a couple of types foods which provide ample nutrition:

Rolled Oats
Crushed Dog Biscuit
Assorted vegetables
Occasional fresh fruit

These should be fed to your crickets in a small bowl (makes it easier to clean it out) about 24 hours before you feed your gecko. This means that they would have eaten a lot of the food and your gecko will receive ample nutrition when they are fed. Make sure that you take out the food given to your crickets every two or three days. This lessens the chance of any mould growing inside the cricket tubs you use.

Leopard Gecko Guy

Light or no light? - Updated

2012-01-05T02:01:00.000-08:00

I have come back to the question of whether or not leopard geckos need a light in the vivarium. I get asked this question from time to time from lots of first time owners who sometimes don't have the means to put a light into the vivarium. This is certainly the case with a lot of plastic 'anything can live here' vivarum which are currently in the UK market.

I did a test around a year or so ago when I turned off my leopard geckos bulb for a month. The result was that here wasn't too much change but it wasn't something that was going to benefit a desert lizard if it never came back on! All it showed was the fact that the leopard gecko is a tough lizard and will adapt quite well to different surroundings – which is why the leopard gecko so popular.

After the experiment I went back to using a bulb during the day. The bulb provides them with that extra bit of warmth and more importantly your accurately creating the environment they come from. It suits their instincts and little bodies better to have the bulb on as they come from hot, sunny and warmer climate so it make sense to have a heat source from above – even if they spend most of their time in the cave! They have to hide under rocks in their home climate to evade the sun and they may eventually become stressed due to the change, after all they haven’t quite lost all of their natural instincts as they are still not truly domesticated pets.

So all in all I think that leopard geckos can be ok with no light on but for a more natural enclosure for them – a light is pretty much a necessity. It’s a good alternative to know about when a bulb has blown there’s no need to panic (as with other reptile species) as you know that they can survive with no bulb for a short period of time.

So there you have it – they need a light for the long term.

Leopard Gecko Guy

5 ways of feeding your leopard gecko live food - Updated

2012-01-03T09:41:00.000-08:00

There are a number of different ways in which you can feed your leopard gecko. How you feed your leopard gecko can influence its natural feeding and hunting behavior, which is sometimes overlooked. By feeding, I refer to introducing live food into the vivarium, not the supplementing with calcium (these are covering in some previous blogs). There are a number of different and inventive ways to put live food into the vivarium.

1. Bag shake method

The bag shake method is very simple. Just get some crickets or locust and place them into a bag with some calcium powder in and shake well. This gives an even coverage of calcium to all the live food in the bag. The main problem with this method is that it can be quite messy to get the live food out of the bag and can leave to escapees if you shake the bag too much.

2. Feeding tub method

The feeding tub method is very simple just like the bag shake method. Just get some crickets or locust and place them into a tub with some calcium powder in and shake well. Again, this gives an even coverage of calcium. This method is less messy than the bag shake method as they are easier to put into the vivarium. However like the above method you can easily get escapees so you still have to watch what your doing!

3. Termite/Feeding Rock

These are great for simulating natural feeding and can make your leopard geckos feeding fun to watch. You dust the crickets before hand and then put the mound into the vivarium. When they come out of the one or two holes in the rock they are hunted by your gecko. The only downsides to this method is that the crickets don’t always come out and they can rub the calcium supplement off before your gecko eats the – or it could be a while before they come out.
4. Feeding Tongs

Feeding tongs are instruments that are used to feed your gecko by hand without getting your fingers too close to your geckos mouth. This is a great method if your gecko is ill or not feeding well. The problem with this method is that unless your careful then your gecko can bite the tongs. The feeding tong has the potential to cut your geckos mouth which can lead to infections if your gecko is a bit over zealous with its feeding.

5. Hand Feed

The hand feeding method is just like the tong method but using your fingers. This method builds up the trust of your leopard gecko and is great fun to do occasionally but should never really be a staple way to feed your gecko. Constantly feeding by hand can cause your leopard gecko to become fat as it never really has to hunt for its food. If your not careful or you use too small a prey item, your gecko could accidentally bite you. Its best to do this method when the are over 5 or 6 inches. I prefer this method to using tongs because I think its safer and builds the bond between you and your gecko.

As you can see there are a couple of different feeding methods available for you to try out. Leopard geckos will respond differently to each method so its more about finding which method best suits your gecko best. A variety of feeding methods can stimulate your leopard gecko and its always fun to watch a leopard gecko feed.

Leopard Gecko Guy

The Return of Leopard Gecko Guy

2011-12-29T10:26:00.000-08:00

Hey Everyone,

First of all apologies for not posting a blog since October!

I have been very busy for the past few months with events out of my control and have not been able to find the time to blog.

However i'm now back in the grove and ready to rock with more leopard gecko goodness than ever before!

So hold on tight and keep reading

Leopard Gecko Guy

Leopard Gecko Toes and Shedding

2011-10-04T13:42:00.000-07:00

When leopard geckos shed their toes can be a problem area – even with healthy gecko. Even with a moist hide readily available some geckos choose not to bother or experience toe shedding difficulties anyway. It is therefore always essential to check on their toes whenever they shed just to keep on top of things.

So how you combat the shed left on toes?

It can be very difficult to do, as the toes are so delicate and fragile. The best thing to do is to put your leopard gecko in a sauna (warm damp cloth in bottom of a container ) for 5 –10 mins which will soften the skin around the toes. Then gently rub the affected toes with a clean towel. This should loosen off the skin over time. Don’t think that it will come off first time as if the shed has been unattended to for a while, it will be very tight and will take a few saunas and rubs to come off.

But what if the unthinkable happens and you loose your geckos toe? Sometimes a unshed toe can go unseen if your not careful and check after each shed. The layers of skin build up until blood can’t flow through to the toe and in the end this will cause the toes to drop. Well under no circumstances should attempt to pull it off, always get an experienced vet to give you advice. This however will rarely happen if you look for the signs of any skin left on toes.

Leopard Gecko Guy

Holidays and Your Leopard Geckos

2011-08-19T04:56:00.001-07:00

I recently went on holiday here in the UK and it got me thinking – what do you do with your reptiles when you go on holiday?

Keeping reptiles when your going away on holiday can be tricky depending on your reptile. It isn't always possible to leave your pet at home for the duration of your holiday and this can cause problems and limitations when choosing a holiday. It is possible to leave an adult leopard gecko for 1 or a t a push 2 nights alone if your on a short weekend break. Unless you have a friend or relative who can care for your gecko it can be tricky if your going for a week or more.

There are not many places which offer holiday boarding for reptile pets – which is a real shame. I know some pet shops can offer them which is good but it inst always possible. Its also very difficult to find somewhere which does it as a main feature (I have found just one place!)

I always take mine with me. I don't holiday abroad so I put my leopard geckos in a viv and take them with me! I also take my bearded dragon too which gets a lot of attention when im driving.

I take my leopard geckos in a large plastic faunarium with a heat mat. I put in some of their objects from their larger vivarium such as their cave, water bowl, plants etc (so everything isn't alien and it does a good job of calming them down on a trip).

This brings me to another more interesting poll which I want to get your help with. What do you do with your leopard geckos / reptiles while your on holiday?

Let me know your ideas and thoughts – im very interested in hearing them. Would you like a place where you can keep your reptiles while your away which are actually readily available?

Leopard Gecko Guy

Where do you get your leopard geckos from?

2011-08-08T12:38:00.000-07:00

Local Pet Shop	(40%)
Major Pet Shop (I.e. Pets at Home etc)	(45%)
I breed my own	(4%)
Private Breeder	(0%)
It was a gift	(4%)
Online Breeder	(0%)
Second Hand / Rescue	(9%)
Specialist Reptile Shop	(13%)
Not Sure	(0%)

A few weeks ago I put up a poll which aim was to find out where you guys get your leopard geckos from. The results were as predicted - the recent popularity of reptiles as pets had led to alot of people aquiring them through major pet retailers - which have looked to cash in on them (45%). Smaller pet shops were close behind (40%) and after that there was the more specialist options (13%) and rescue/second hand' (9%).

So what does this really tell us? This is only really a glimpse which has used a small sample of owners to get its imformation from. Although even a small glimpse provides a lot of insight. If reptiles become more of a household pet - which of course major pet shops want them to be - then the breeding programs will have to more sustainable to cope with the demand and fend off any potential problems. What wasn't much of a problem before - could become a big one as genetitics could come into play. It would alos be interesting to see how many owners go back to the same shop to purchase a second gecko too. I think a bigger poll is needed for this however!

What are your thoughts on the findings?

Leopard Gecko Guy

The State of Leopard Geckos in the UK

2011-07-09T05:12:00.001-07:00

In the UK there has been a debate over the current state of leopard geckos being kept in the UK. On the surface these reptiles are doing very well and have become increasingly popular. The past few years has seen unprecedented growth in the number of people owning these amazing reptiles. Their popularity with new and experienced owners has led Leopard geckos to become one of the most kept reptiles in the UK and as a result the demand for new variations and morphs has increased.

So what is the problem when everything looks so good for the future of these reptiles in the UK?

The argument that is being debated is that the current gene pool in the UK is deteriorating and unsustainable for the long term future. Some experts day that the results of this are already visible as geckos are becoming 'unfit' compared to their natural wild counterparts. Captive leopard geckos in the UK are said to be weaker, more prone to disease and are getting more mental problems. A lot of this stems from the increased popularity and the now high demand for specialist morphs. What is happening is that selected morphs are being bred more often, which is resulting in lots of geckos from a small gene pool. This has caused many geckos that are bred in this way to get inbreeding depression.

So how do we combat this issue? First of all you have to look at how the issue has arisen rather than go out all guns a blazing. For me it seems the problem is based on the way we breed leopard geckos in the UK. However, I don't think there is enough research into the issue to come to a conclusion that this is the root of all the trouble. When you look at evidence it seems to be based on personal opinion rather than scientific reasoning and accurate data. There doesn't seem to be many comparisons available between wild and captive geckos. It's a bit like comparing a wild dog to a pet one – you just can't!

In my own opinion I think its the way we keep them which could cause people to think that they are becoming weaker and more prone to illness. However i'm using 'weaker' and 'prone to illness' in a very loose sense here. You can't compare a wild leopard gecko with a captive pet one. You can't keep leopard geckos wholly natural in their behaviour if you have them in a captive surroundings which only mimics their natural one. Your bound to eventually affect their behaviour and resistance to disease due to the conditions they are kept in. As long as you care for them correctly then you shouldn't notice any difference at all.

I think that breeding does have to be more sustainable but I don't think it is wholly responsible for the problems facing leopard geckos. It is responsible for things like inbreeding depression and has produced some mentally ill geckos however (like the enigma). Perhaps the demand is the leopard gecko gene pool to deteriorate but without a wider study – its hard to say. Although I do think leopard geckos are going through a change - I think its because of the fact they are now generally not being kept in their natural surroundings. This is a natural behavioural change to match the environment they are kept in and I think this is only a good thing really. Until more research is done into the comparison between wild and captive geckos I don't think we should start jumping to any sort of conclusion. Lets just enjoy these amazing reptiles and keep them in the best conditions possible.

Leopard Gecko Guy

Leopard Gecko Guy on Facebook!

2011-06-15T06:24:00.000-07:00

Hey Everyone,

I have now set up a facebook group and i'm inviting all of my followers and fellow leopard gecko (or reptile keepers in gerneral) enthusiasts !

In fact when I hit 600 likes i'm going to be holding a special competition where you could win an exclusive leopard gecko guy t-shirt. This competition will be open to anyone in the world!

So get 'Liking'!

Leopard Gecko Guy

The fearless Leopard Gecko!

2011-06-14T14:32:00.000-07:00

Leopard geckos are fearless reptiles at times. This concept of 'no fear' is especially true with when they are younger. I have even known one of my geckos to stare down a cat when she was younger from her vivarium. She would literally go to the edge of her viv to watch the cat sit below her (she was minding her own business though never really knew that the gecko was above her!). We used to joke that our leopard gecko thought the cat was a 'Ginger Cricket'!

Where does this fearlessness come from though? In babies it is instilled in them as they have to be tough to survive in the wild. When they get to be juveniles and adults I think personality and housing conditions has alot to do with it.

This fearlessness is also evident when you hold them outside the vivarium. Leopard geckos don't have an in-built fear of falling, which means you have to be careful if you hold them while standing up. They can be quite quick at times and if your not careful they could end up falling if your not paying attention. It's always advisable to hold them while seated to avoid big drops. When they are being handled by children you must always supervise the child in case the gecko escapes or is held too roughly.

This isn't to say however that your leopard gecko has the fearlessness of a Spartan warrior! It depends a lot on the personality of your leopard gecko.

Guest Post: Leopard gecko Starter Guide

2011-06-12T08:30:00.000-07:00

Starters with the starter pet: what you need to know

Leopard geckos, as you can read in leopard gecko guy’s previous blog, are known as ‘starter pets’ for amateur lizard keepers.

This is a blog for ‘starters with the starter pet’. I hope it helps.

1) Before you buy the leopard gecko:

Geckos, although very easy to look after, clearly need some essentials. These, once you have definitely decided on a Leo as your choice of lizard (good choice!), need to be purchased and sorted out before you it.

An obvious place to start with this list is the vivarium. It needs to be, in my opinion, at least a foot long x a foot deep, though it is best to have 2foot x 1 foot (if you can afford it) to give the gecko more space to climb around and also gives you a chance to get some decent decor in there without it looking crowded.

The height is not particularly important – it doesn’t need to be really high like it would be for a lizard that lives in trees, but again, around a foot would be good, as it gives room for a bulb to be fitted without a risk of the gecko being able to touch it and burn itself.

Other important items include a heat mat that should cover about ¾ of the vivarium. These are relatively easy to get hold of and usually come in a set when you buy a vivarium and gecko. This should be turned on all the time.

Substrate is basically a posh word for the stuff you use on the bottom of the vivarium as a kind of ground. This is usually either a form of sand or gravel, but there are also materials in the reptile market such as reptile carpet. Since I have no experience with such things, I am going to stick with conventional sand and gravel (ask your supplier about it).

Personally, I use relatively fine calcium sand. There are many arguments over using sand in vivariums holding small reptiles, such as leopard geckos, as if they ingest too much, it will become compacted in their insides and the animal will risk death. I, however, have not had this, even when I first got my 3 month old leopard, and he was quite small for his age.

For good advice on substrate, I would ask the breeder who you are buying from. They will have experience with young and old geckos and will be able to tell you the best substrate for your gecko.

Lighting is not essential for Leos, as they are supposedly nocturnal, but I use a 40 watt red bulb in my vivarium to keep the heat up during the day, as the heat mat is not quite enough, especially if the heating in the house is not on.

Extra items such as a water bowl, food bowl, cave and thermometer should be bought prior to gecko purchase too. The thermometer should be one which sticks to the wall of the tank, for easy reading, and should be stuck on the cool side. If you can purchase two, stick one on the warm side too. This is the side where the heat bulb will be.

Other things which are useful to have include: some kind of reptile vitamin dust to put on its food (ask your supplier); tweezers (preferably quite long so you can pick out insects from awkward places); a small spoon or scooper (for droppings – don’t use the tweezers you use for the food, this is unhygienic); a tray to keep all this and the tub of food on; a small squirter bottle for filling up the water bowl; and if you feed your gecko mealworms, some kind of small pot or jam jar (like the ones you get in hotels) for dusting as you may find this easier than doing it in the vivarium.

2) When you buy your leopard gecko

I, again, am not an expert in choosing the best leopard gecko.

I personally went by which one was cutest, being the teenage girl that I am!! But really, you should go by your instincts- don’t buy the one that’s limping, seems smaller than it’s siblings, doesn’t seem to be eating or generally looks to be in ill health.

When you have picked your gecko, ask the breeder what it has been eating and what is best. For example, the breeder may have been feeding your 3 month old gecko mealworms for ease as they are less likely to escape, but may say that silent black crickets are best for your gecko. Make sure you note the sizing as well. I am not an expert on understanding the sizing of crickets either, and I suppose it would be no use, as it is probably different in the U.S than here in the U.K.

A good way of gauging what is best for your particular gecko (and comes in handy once he/she starts to grow!) is that you shouldn’t give a gecko a cricket that is bigger than the distance between the gecko’s eyes.

3) Looking after your gecko and vivarium

Vivarium décor is something I enjoy buying and setting up. If you cannot find much in the way of furniture and decorations for your gecko in reptile stores, try one of the well known chain pet stores in your area (e.g ‘pets at home’ in the U.K. or ‘petsmart’ (?) in the U.S.) in the aquarium section. All this stuff is great for geckos to climb on, and it’s all safe for geckos because it has to have been approved for fish. The only thing to watch out for is that the items don’t have anything too sharp that the gecko will scratch him/herself on.

You should really take out any droppings as soon as you see them, as well as any dead food items as the gecko will only eat ones that are clearly living/ moving. I suggest giving the vivarium a clean layer of substrate, clean the glass, re-arrange furnishing etc about once a month to keep it hygienic and clean for your gecko.

After about a day of having the gecko, give him/her some food. After about a week, start taking the gecko out. Be careful not to hold the tail, and I suggest taking it out in somewhere like a hallway where there isn’t any or very little furniture for it to get lost under should it jump away from you, and shut all the doors.

I hope this comes in handy for any new Leo owners who stumble upon this website. If you have any queries please contact me (Francesca Rogers) by email – franc.rogers@hotmail.co.uk or on twitter @marley_gecko and I will try as best as possible to answer your questions.

Francesca Rogers

What should you have in your reptile first aid kit?

2011-05-30T02:14:00.000-07:00

Leopard geckos like all other pets can get ill or hurt over the years so having a first aid kit dedicated to them is essential. Its surprising how many owners don't have any basic tools to aid their geckos health when something happens.

You should try and keep of the items below in a container which is near to your gecko (or at least where you can find it!) and it should be able to fit in most of the elements on the list. You could even keep it in a box in the quarentine vivarium to save space.

So what goes in to a Reptile First Aid Kit?

1. Vet's Number

This item is pretty much essential in any first aid kit, but is often overlooked. if your gecko looks in a bad way or you have tried everything you know - then this is can be a gecko life saver more than the other tools on this list. Theres nothing worse than scrambling around to find a contact number for a vet in a panic. To get your local reptile vet number search online for it if you havn't got one.

2. Bandages

Don't use ordinary plasters - it can damage the skin of your leopard gecko. As a bandage use cotton and tape or liquid bandage if you can find any. If your gecko has a deep cut or a broken bone - don't waste time with trying to form a splint or prepare a bandage, get to a vet asap. You can wrap it up for the short term however.

3. Eye/ Skin/ Wound Healing Ointments

These ointments are available from most leading reptile shops and are good for healing cuts and scrapes. There are alternatives to these but for he purpose of this im sticking to the tried and tested basics for the novice or experienced owner.

4. Shedding Aids

Store bought reptile shedding aids can be useful but you get the same results with luke warm water and a piece of clean cloth! The main thing a gecko requires to shed effectivley is humidity so all you need is a plastic tupperware container to make into a humid hide and a piece of cloth to take the excess skin off!

Find out more here: http://www.leopardgeckoguy.com/2010/11/dealing-with-shedding-issues.html

5. Kitchen Roll

Kitchen roll is great as an emergency substrate and easy to replace and dispose of at as fraction of the cost of other substrates! Effective when you need to clean out a sick gecko every day.

6. Quanrentine Vivarium

A quarentine vivarium / faurnarium is essential if you keep more than one gecko as keeping them apart can prevent the spread of infection if you catch it early.

This isn't a be all and end all list. You add to it as you see fit and this is something to get you thing and start you off. The main thing to try and remember here is to try and use this kit as little as possible! It's also important to realise when you need to take your gecko to the vet instead of just taking for granted what in your reptile kit.

Leopard Gecko Guy

Article in Herpeteculture House

2011-05-15T10:56:00.000-07:00

Hey Everyone,

Leopard Gecko Guy has just had an article published in "Herpetecuture House" about taming leopard geckos. This e-magazine is the only true digital reptile magazine and is full of fantastic articles by leading experts in the field of reptiles.

Thank to John F Taylor and everyone involved in the magazine for letting me include the article. You get the magazine here:

http://herphousemag.com/

Leopard Gecko Guy

The Curse of the "Starter Pet"

2011-05-14T05:29:00.000-07:00

Over the past few year reptiles have seen unprecedented growth within the pet industry and are now becoming more widely available and kept than ever before. This is mainly due to increased awareness and larger pet shops introducing them into their shops - opening them up to the more mainstream public buyer.

There are generally three species of reptile readily available from larger pets shops and almost every single smaller pet retailer one : Leopard Geckos, Bearded Dragons and Corn Snakes. Other reptiles are becoming more common such as crested geckos and other varieties of snake but more exotic species (for the time being) are only available from specialists traders and breeders.

So why are these three more popular than the rest of the reptile pets available? Well the main reason is that they are very easy to look after even for a novice who has never done it before (which is who they are being aimed at). The other reason is that the larger stores want to you to buy as much equipment as possible with your new pet as their main target buyer is the 'first timer' and not your seasoned reptile owner. These three are primarily seen as 'starter reptiles' for this reason.

Personally I don't believe in the phrase 'starter reptile'. This phrase only seems to apply to certain types of animals – I have never heard of a starter dog or cat for instance. It sounds as if your waiting for something else to come along so you can drop 'your first reptile' and go for something else. This is why you see an awful lot of adverts for pre owned sites for these three reptile species, as the owners have got bored of their new pet and now want to move onto something bigger, better and more exotic instead.

These three are well suited to life as pets more than other exotic reptile species which are available. They make great pets because you are able to handle them much more than most other reptile species. There are a lot of reptiles may look pretty and interesting but really hate to be handled. These types of reptiles become more like “ornamental pets” – the only thing you do is feed them and clean them without interacting directly with them or creating a bond.

So what is the so called 'curse' i'm talking about? Well its the fact that these three reptiles, deemed as 'starter pets', are open to all sorts of misconceptions. For example those who don't have the first clue about reptiles think they easy to keep and they are sometimes seen as the first step on the ladder of reptile keeping. These reptiles are also home to mass breeding problems as well and in the some cases this is having a detrimental effect on the gene pool. They can even be seen as the kind of a mickey mouse group of reptiles by those in the 'know' who have had reptiles for a number of years. Although I haven't come across many of these types – but they are out there.

Personally I don't believe in the term – but we all have to start somewhere. They is always something new to learn or observe from these three reptiles and they all have great personalities and make great long – lived pets if cared for correctly for old hands and new ones alike. We need to stop thinking them as 'starter pets' and start treating them without this tag.

Leopard Gecko Guy

Injuries and Problems Poll Results

2011-04-30T03:35:00.000-07:00

A few months ago I ran a poll which aim was to try and find out what the most common Leopard Gecko problem was. The response I received for the poll was fantastic and the finding were interesting. The results are as follows:

1. Shedding (Toes)
2. General Shedding
3. Burns
4. Parasites
5. Impaction
6. Metabolic Bone Disease

As you can see shedding is top of the list in the common problems in leopard geckos. Or more specifically its those tiny toes that cause the main problem. This issue is very common and more often than not it can't always be preventing by just using a moist hide. I have found that my leopard geckos each have a different way of shedding - even when kept in the same environment.

An article on how to treat shedding problems can be found here:

http://www.leopardgeckoguy.com/2011/01/yet-more-shedding-issues-and-solutions.html

The rest of the problems are due to the environment that they are kept in. In truth you can never prevent alot of these injuries or problems happening in the vivarium. What you need to do is be vigilant in watching for changes in behaviour and make sure you provide the safest (yet interesting) environment possible.

Leopard Gecko Guy

Obesity in Leopard Geckos

2011-04-29T07:25:00.000-07:00

Like many pets Leopard Geckos can become obese which can lead to health problems. Obesity can be caused in a variety of different ways but the most common way is of course overfeeding. Too much food too easily and your leopard gecko will not need to be much of an active hunter in order to get its dinner. Another common reason is that the vivarium is too small and your leopard gecko has simply outgrown it. This causes the leopard gecko to not be able to move around the cramped space so it does not get any exercise and becomes bored with its surroundings. This is why it is better for leopard geckos to grow into a tank rather than out of it.

Preventing and Curing Obesity

Step 1: Create The Hunt

Leopard geckos love to hunt for food and get great joy from doing so. It is also how they primarily keep fit in a captive environment. There is something fun about the way they hunt their prey.

I love nothing better than to watch my leopard geckos go on the hunt for food and when they are obese this doesn’t happen in the same way. It is worth noting that if you have an older leopard gecko they won't be as active in the hunt as much, so its best to check on them when they feed to gauge how naturally active they are.

When feeding crickets to leopard geckos only introduce one or two at a time and put them away from your gecko, this gives an indication as to how hungry your leopard gecko is and saves any wastage. By putting them away from your gecko you are making him/her get out of their current place.

Don’t give mealworms too often as they are not great hunting food as they are just put into a small dish, and some geckos just gorge on them. With my leopard geckos I have taken to ‘placing’ crickets or locust around the vivarium at feeding time. My leopard geckos really enjoy the hunt when the food is in harder to reach places .

Step 2: Provide Variety

Changing the furnishings in the cage (leaving the main hide where it is) will give your leopard gecko more interest in their surroundings. By moving furnishings or even adding some new ones (a rotor works nicely here with some elements on standby) your leopard geckos with be inquisitive and explore them which is a great form of exercise.

Step 3: Handling

Handling is a sure fire way to keep your leopard gecko energetic and active. It is especially useful if you have an older gecko who isn't quite as agile as they used to be. If you have an older gecko they won't be as active in the hunt, which is why handling them becomes quite important. Ten mutes or so a day will provide your leopard gecko with a good amount of exercise and it will allow you to spend time with your gecko forming a bond.

Step 4: Vivarium Size

If possible a large tank is better leopard geckos as they can grow into a tank rather than out of it. Large tanks give your leopard gecko more space to roam and hide and are ideal for providing plenty of variety in their life. Larger tanks will also enable you to see a greater amount of different activities from them

As long as your vivarium is the right size, you handle when possible and feed your leopard gecko in the right way. Obesity shouldn’t be an issue and you should have a healthy leopard gecko.

Leopard Gecko Guy

The 'Joys' of Pet Shops:

2011-04-18T12:52:00.000-07:00

When people want to buy a pet, they usually head straight to their local pet shop. Up until recently you probably wouldn't have found any reptiles there!

In the past few years, pet reptile sales have risen dramatically due to new advances in breeding, care and the changing view of reptiles as a whole. Reptiles are no longer the 'Status' symbol they once were previously seen. Many people now turning to them as an alternative pet with many benefits other common pets. They (generally) require less room, no fur and are generally cleaner pets than other small mammals such as hamsters, gerbils and guinea pigs (if regularly cleaned out).

This in turn has made reptiles like leopard geckos, corn snakes and bearded dragons much more readily available in the UK and US pet trade. With many small reptile pet shops now finding themselves under attack from larger pet stores who are looking to get in on the action from the now booming reptile trade. So more and more people are getting reptiles for the first time – which is great news!

Or is it?

The problem with reptiles is that they are still 'new' to most people and larger pet shops for that matter if they have never come across them as pets before or had them in stock. They require more specialist care and the initial set up is still more than the average pet. Reptiles such as Leopard Geckos and Bearded Dragons, although very popular, are still pretty unknown to most people - if you say you have a reptile some people will just think its a 'snake'. A lot of people buying them for the first time don't quite realise the specialist care they require or quickly realise that their new reptile isn't as cuddly pet they thought is was!

As referred to previously alot of bigger stores that have latched onto the fact that reptiles have become popular. The problem is that not alot of them seem to know how to care for them properly and staff that are used to caring for small pets suddenly find themselves caring for reptiles. I have walked into some shops that have introduced reptiles, alongside more traditional pets, to find the staff feeding leopard geckos lettuce and being scared to death of the crickets!

Smaller pet shops usually give the reptiles the care and attention they require before you buy them as they are mostly owned by those who are reptile lovers themselves. This isn't always the case however as I have recently found out – when one of my newer geckos died of a crypto infection.

I bought a new breeding male from a local pet shops which is a specialist reptile shop. It was on its own and looked a bit thin but as with the case of young geckos they always look a little thin and this one was around 3 months old. It was very alert and I was told it was eating well. I bought it and took it home to put it into quarantine for a few months before I introduced it to my other geckos. The gecko never ate for three weeks and was taken to the vets three or four times to deduce what was going on. We did everything we could to save it but was told it was crypto and it was quite advanced. When we confronted the owner and got a refund but it was – sadly- too late for the gecko. This is also why quarantine is essential and is also a warning as to how hard it is to spot a crypto infection. We later found out that the gecko had crypto for a week or two before we bought it (it was to be part of a breeding programme).

However this is a rare occurrence in smaller and more specialised pet shops. For the most part you can tell whether or not they care for the animals well just by looking at them and also about the presentation of the shop. Even then you can't always tell - as I found out. This in my view will be a recurring trend in the pet trade as the demand for reptiles rises.

Personally I prefer to deal with private breeders and selected reptile shops where the care is first rate and I know the staff. You can always tell whether or not the animals are cared for from just speaking to the staff and getting a feel from the place and animals within it. Although, in the end, this only comes from experience and even hen you can still make mistakes.

Leopard Geckos: Hardier than you Think

2011-04-05T11:15:00.000-07:00

You wouldn’t know it but leopard geckos are incredibly tough reptiles for their size.

They may be docile (ish) and very friendly but what makes them the ideal reptile pet is their ability to withstand mistakes made by first time owners (lack of light, temperature issues etc..). This has enabled them (along with bearded dragons and corn snakes) to become one of the most common reptiles in the pet trade today. You can easily forget that leopard geckos come from a very harsh Middle Eastern environment where you have to be incredibly tough to survive. The stories of leopard geckos that have been lost and then later found alive many months later is a testament to their survival instincts.

Leopard geckos use the tail drop as a last line of defence. A lot of people fear that their leopard gecko will lose their tail if they pick them up and handle them too roughly. From my own experience I have never had any of my geckos lose their tail although I do take my time when handling to get to know the gecko. You only have to take your leopard gecko to the vet to see how much ‘rough’ handling they can take – vets don’t pull many punches when they handle a leo!

This tough attitude seems to be hardwired in them from birth! Baby leopard geckos are renowned for their fearlessness and courage as any breeder or new owner will tell you. Most will stand their ground in the face of the unknown (aka their new adopted mum or dad!) and hiss ominously as a warning to leave them alone.

So in short your leopard gecko is not a delicate flower who’s petals will fall at the slightest touch. A more likely analogy would be a sturdy little shrub! The golden rules of leopard gecko handling are be firm but gentle, no sudden movements or surprises and most of all know your own leo! Like people they are all unique and different and some may be a little more timid while others more confident and robust. Get to know your leo’s limits and both you and he will have a long happy friendship!

Leopard Gecko Guy

Leopard Gecko Guy is back!

2011-04-04T13:40:00.001-07:00

Hey Everyone,

Took a longer break than originally planned from the blog. But good news - I have a whole raft of new blogs for you guys as well as some treats in store too.

So before we get onto all things leopard gecko, let me tell you about some of the new things I have in store for you over the coming months!

The main website (www.leopardgeckoguy.co.uk) is being rebuilt by yours truly (my other job is a web designer!) to make it more user friendly and a fun resource on leopard geckos.
Illustrated cartoons by Rhiannon Morgan
More Polls
More In depth articles
More of your leopard geckos
More of your questions being answered
Guest Blogs
And more!

So where have I been for the past two (and a bit) months? Well I have had some fun with pet shops (will discuss this in a later blog) and have taken some time out to write some great blogs and articles too.

So whats the first blog going to be on you ask?

Well its the 'Curse of the Starter Pet!' but first is the first of many leopard gecko guy cartoons by the fantastic illustrator Rhiannon Morgan!

Leopard Gecko Guy

Giving your leopard gecko a varied diet

2011-01-18T14:28:00.000-08:00

For a while now I have been trying out different types of food on some of my leopard geckos to promote variety in their diet. They seem to really enjoy this and they seem to be alot more active and alert during the hunt. So much so that I now encourage them to forage around for their food - rather than simply putting it in front of them.

So to make it more interesting for them I have employed an insect feeder rock, mealworm bowl (half covered) and a couple of cork pieces of bark to hide the live food in.Then I introduced the live food altogether (a few of each type but only what they would normally eat) and then left them too it. I watched them come out of their hides and walk around the vivarium. They were actively seeking them out where they could hear them and then hunting them down.

It took awhile before they got all the live food but it made sure that they got some exercise in the process. They also displayed a more natural hunting instinct which can sometimes be lost when food is offered directly to them. This is what leads to them becoming lazy at times.

This can be a fun way of watching your leopard gecko hunt for food. Of course not everyone has the space in their viv to put in so many hiding spaces in which to hide live food. Although what you can do is strategically place the live food around the viv and make your leopard gecko work for the live food and get some excersise!

Injuries, Problems and Illness in Leopard Geckos

2011-01-10T09:27:00.000-08:00

Everyone's pet at some point will become struck by an illness, injury or problem no matter how well they are kept. My new poll is about finding out what the most common problems are with keeping leopard geckos.

So do the poll and say what past problems you have had and I will cover them in future blogs!

Leopard gecko Guy

Yet More Shedding Issues and Solutions

2011-01-05T11:45:00.000-08:00

One of the most common shedding issues that I have come across is when the shedded skin starts to stick to your geckos toes. Even with a moist hide in your vivarium you may still encounter problems. I myself have had many a problem with my geckos not shedding properly on their toes. I have spent many hours trying to get the remaining shed off at times.

When a toe doesn’t shed properly the shed stays were it is until the next shed. This causes the repeated sheds to cut off circulation to the toe - causing it to drop off. Even the most well kept gecko will experience some shedding difficulties during their lifetime. Its more a case in this respect to check on them after every shed making sure all of the toes have not got any remaining skin on them. They can get lazy at times and not bother with a moist hide – which it can sometimes occur.

So its very important to get that shed off your leopard geckos toes before any harm is done. If you start to notice a little red swelling on the end of some of your geckos toes it could be the cause of blood build up from the shed constricted toe. If caught early enough it can be saved with a little time and patience.

The Solution to Toe Shedding Problems

Leopard Gecko in the process of Shedding

The Leopard Gecko Sauna

The leopard gecko sauna is basically a moist hide with a difference – as we are not using moss. All you need is a Tupperware box large enough for you gecko to move around in a little (with air holes), a piece of cloth to line the bottom and a spray bottle filled with warm water.

The aim here is to gently wet your geckos skin which in turns softens the skin on the restricted toe/s. Simply lay down the cloth or flannel inside the container and put some warm water on to it. Remove any excess water and put your gecko into it. Then put the container into the vivarium, which will keep it warm and really humid. After about 30 minutes or so take your gecko out and check on its skin. It should be easier to take off now with a dry piece of cloth. Do this very gently but keep a firm hold on your gecko as they will wriggle around. If its not coming off then put your leopard gecko back into the humid tub for 30 more minutes. Don’t try and force the skin off your gecko as this could harm it. Don’t overdo it with the use of the Tupperware tub – a few hours for two days should do it.

Happy New Year

2010-12-30T13:57:00.001-08:00

Happy New Year

Have a great new year everyone. Will be back in 2011 with some great new posts, polls, insights and answering all your questions.

Best Wishes

Leopard Gecko Guy

Leopard Gecko Poll Results

2010-12-15T10:56:00.000-08:00

The Final Standings in The "What you feed your Leopard Gecko Poll" in Order

Crickets   32 (74%)

Mealworms 26 (60%)

Waxworm    12 (27%)

Locust     6 (13%)

Pinkies    4 (9%)

Other      3 (6%)

Silkworms 2 (4%)

Dried Mealworms 2 (4%)

Phoenix Worms 1 (2%)

Dried Flys   1 (2%)

Dried Crickets 1 (2%)

Garden Bugs   0 (0%)

Morios   0 (0%)

As you can see crickets are the live food of choice for most leopard gecko owners, followed closely by mealworms and then waxworms came into the fray. After these three things drop considerably with locusts being next but only a fraction of owners feed them to their leopard geckos.

After this there isn't many diffrent types of food being used with very few of you using pinkies (rightly in my opinion), phoenix worm/ silkworm and dried food.

So why did crickets come out on top? Well they are the most readily available food source, along with mealworm, and are the standard food of choice for most owners. They are easy for shops to stock and they are easy to breed. Live foods like locust are becoming more widely available but are no where near as popular as crickets.

Lack of variety?

So is there a lack of variety in the food we give our leoaprd geckos? I personally would like to see more variety in leopard gecko food. This was a very short list with only a few items on it but I still want to see more feeder insects instead of relieing on a few main types. I would like to feed my gecko some of the insects they would naturally find in the wild although this is wishful thinking.

I don't have any quarrels with any of the bugs on the list but a bit more variety would be nice.

Leopard Gecko Guy