Les Recettes de Louis la Vache

Under Construction

2008-07-30T17:47:00.000+02:00

"Louis" has encountered a series of problems using Blogger as the host for his "Recettes" that Blogger has chosen to ignore. These problems have persisted for 22 weeks! So "Louis" will be saying 'good bye' to Blogger and moving his blogs to a new location soon. He will post the new address(es) when the new sites are up and running.

Pain de Brioche

2008-07-14T16:38:00.015+02:00

Poor Marie. Not only did she lose her head, she is misquoted as having said "S’ils n’ont plus de pain, qu’ils mangent de la brioche."
The word brioche first appeared in print in 1404. This bread is believed to have sprung from une recette normande traditionnelle. It is argued that brioche is probably of a Roman origin, since a very similar sort of sweet holiday bread is made in Romania ("sărălie"). The method of baking it and tradition of using it during holidays resembles the culture surrounding the brioche so much that it is difficult to doubt same origin of both foods. Brioche is often served as a pastry or as the basis of a dessert, with many local variations in added ingredients, fillings and toppings. It is also used with savory preparations, particularly with foie gras, and is used in some meat dishes.

Perhaps the most popular version is Brioche à tête. Today, we will bake a loaf version, using a slow-rise, cool fermentation method. "Louis" lets the dough ferment in the refrigerator twice overnight before a third rise at room temperature on the third day before baking. You can proof the dough quicker than this, but the long, cool fermentation helps develop the flavor and improves the keeping quality. Without further ado,

À table!
Pain de brioche

Oven 350º F (180º C)

INGRÉDIENTS:

1/2 cup whole milk
6 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup cool water
7 grams yeast (1 packet)
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
17 ounces unbleached bread flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
egg wash (optional)

MÉTHODE:

1) In a small saucepan, scald the milk.
2) Add the butter to the milk, stir until the butter melts, then add the sugar.
3) Set aside, allow to cool to under 100º F (38º C)
4) Allowing time for the milk/butter mixture to cool, pour the water into the mixing bowl of your mixer* fitted with the whisk attachment.
5) Add the yeast. Allow the yeast to soften for five minutes.
6) With the mixer on low speed, blend the yeast into the water.
7) Pour the milk/butter mixture into the mixing bowl and blend.
8) Add 1/2 cup of the flour, continue to blend on low speed.
9) Replace the whisk attachment on the mixer with the dough hook.
10) Add another 1/2 cup of the flour.
11) When that addition of flour is absorbed, with the mixer running, sprinkle the salt over the dough, blend well.
12) Continuing to mix at low speed, gradually add the eggs.
13) Gradually add remaining flour, running the mixer until the dough forms a soft, sticky ball.
14) Stop the mixer and scrape the sides of the bowl from time to time.
15) When the dough develops a sheen, the gluten is properly developed. At this point, turn the mixer off and remove the dough hook.
16) Resist the temptation to add more flour. This is a soft, sticky dough. The key is to mix long enough for the dough to develop a sheen, indicating proper gluten development.
17) Scrape the bowl. Oil your hands, coat the dough with the oil, shaping the dough into a ball.
18) Cover the bowl well and place in the refrigerator overnight.
19) The next morning, punch the dough down, cover and refrigerate again until the third morning.
20) Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, shape it to fit the pan you've selected to bake it in.
21) Oil the pan, place the dough in it, cover and allow to proof until at least doubled. Because the dough has been refrigerated, it will take a long time for it to 'wake up' and proof.
22) Bake at 350º F (180º C) for 30 - 45 minutes, depending on the pan you've selected. Brush with an egg wash the last ten minutes of baking to give the crust a sheen.
23) When golden brown and you get a hollow sound by thumping on the bottom of the pan, remove the pan from the oven, placing it on a cooling rack.
24) Let the bread cool for at least 10 minutes before depanning. Resist the temptation to cut into it right away! Let it cool until the internal temperature falls below 100º F (37º C) before cutting.

* Assumes a Kitchen Aid mixer
Voici! Bon appétit!

Nôtre premier anniversaire

2008-07-11T18:11:00.001+02:00

Our first anniversary

Clic sur l'image pour l'agrandir

"Louis" and the future Mme. la Vache were introduced by a mutual acquaintance not long after "Louis's" return to California from France - on his birthday actually! "Louis," having been divorced for 28 years really, no longer considered marriage to be an option. Then he met Mme. la Vache!

Mme. la Vache was born and raised in China and had lived in Japan for about 15 years. She had worked as a photographer and journalist for a Tokyo newspaper. She published a novel, written in Mandarin, that became a best-seller in China.

She is a smart, funny, wonderful woman and "Louis" thanks God that she has come into his life. "Louis" says that she is the best thing that ever happened to him!

Today is the first anniversary of "Louis" and Mme. la Vache's civil wedding. Following their civil wedding, "Louis" and Mme. la Vache repeated their vows in a church ceremony on le 4 novembre. ("Louis" says, 'I'm glad she has a sense of humor, otherwise she'd kill me for calling her 'Mrs. Cow!' - and who would blame her?! He fears he'll wind up looking like THIS!. He can get away with it largely only because she doesn't want her name on the blogosphere.)

Le 4 ème Juillet: Colombe, aigle ou dinde ?

2008-07-04T00:01:00.001+02:00

July 4th: Dove, Eagle or Turkey

In "1776", Benjamin Franklin argues that the turkey should be our national bird.
(Hat tip to The Pink Flamingo)

Farms in Berkeley*? The Statue of Liberty in Paris?
(Click to enlarge)
* San Francisco Bay Area readers will understand this reference
Don't forget that the Statue of Liberty was a gift from France to the United States. Here is a model of "Lady Liberty" in la Seine in Paris, near la tour Eiffel. Gustav Eiffel engineered the supporting structure of "Lady Liberty". French sculptor Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi designed the statue and chose its site in New York Harbor.

Flag Day aux Ètats-Unis

2008-06-14T18:22:00.002+02:00

Flag Day in the United States

Golden Gate National Cemetery, San Bruno, CA

Aux Ètats-Unis, Flag Day is celebrated on le 14 juin. Flag Day commemorates the adoption of the flag of the United States, when the Second Continental Congress on adopted the Stars and Stripes by a resolution passed on le 14 juin 1777. In 1916, President Woodrow Wilson issued a proclamation that officially established le 14 juin as Flag Day; National Flag Day was established by an Act of Congress in aout 1949.

"Louis" adapted this history of Flag Day from Wikipedia:

The earliest reference to the suggestion of a "Flag Day" is cited in "Kansas: a Cyclopedia of State History, published by Standard Publishing Company of Chicago in 1912. It credits George Morris of Hartford, Connecticut:
'To George Morris of Hartford, Conn., is popularly given the credit of suggesting "Flag Day," the occasion being in honor of the adoption of the American flag on June 14, 1777. The city of Hartford observed the day in 1861, carrying out a program of a patriotic order, praying for the success of the Federal arms and the preservation of the Union.'

1885

Working as a grade school teacher in Waubeka, Wisconsin, in 1885, Bernard Cigrand held the first recognized formal observance of Flag Day at Stony Hill School in Waubeka. The school has been restored, and a bust of Cigrand also honors him at the National Flag Day Americanism Center in Waubeka.

From the late 1880s on, Cigrand spoke around the country promoting patriotism, respect for the flag, and the need for the annual observance of a flag day on June 14, the day in 1777 that the Continental Congress adopted the Stars and Stripes.

He moved to Chicago to attend dental school and, in June 1886, first publicly proposed an annual observance of the birth of the United States flag in an article titled "The Fourteenth of June," published in the Chicago Argus newspaper. In June 1888, Cigrand advocated establishing the holiday in a speech before the "Sons of America," a Chicago group. The organization founded a magazine, American Standard, in order to promote reverence for American emblems. Cigrand was appointed editor-in-chief and wrote articles in the magazine as well as in other magazines and newspapers to promote the holiday.

On the third Saturday in June 1894, a public school children’s celebration of Flag Day took place in Chicago at Douglas, Garfield, Humboldt, Lincoln, and Washington Parks. More than 300,000 children participated, and the celebration was repeated the next year.

Cigrand became president of the American Flag Day Association and later of the National Flag Day Society, which allowed him to promote his cause with organizational backing. Cigrand once noted he had given 2,188 speeches on patriotism and the flag.

Cigrand lived in Batavia, Illinois, from 1913–1932.

Cigrand generally is credited with being the "Father of Flag Day," with the Chicago Tribune noting that he "almost singlehandedly" established the holiday.

1888

William Kerr, a resident of Collier Township, Pennsylvania, for a number of years, founded the American Flag Day Association of Western Pennsylvania in 1888, and became that organization's national chairman one year later, serving as such for fifty years. He attended President Harry S. Truman's 1949 signing of the Act of Congress that formally established the observance.

1889

In 1889, the principal of a free kindergarten, George Bolch, celebrated the anniversary of the Flag resolution at his New York City school. Soon the State Board of Education of New York, the Betsy Ross House in Philadelphia, and the New York Society of the Sons of the Revolution celebrated Flag Day, as well.

1893

In 1893, Elizabeth Duane Gillespie, a descendant of Benjamin Franklin and the president of the Colonial Dames of Pennsylvania, attempted to have a resolution passed deeming June 14 as Flag Day. That same year, the Colonial Dames of Pennsylvania were responsible for a resolution passed requiring the American flag to be displayed on all Philadelphia's public buildings. In 1937, Pennsylvania became the first state to make Flag Day a legal holiday.

This is Alex, from Guam, standing by the grave of Fleet Admiral Chester Nimitz. Alex's father served as an orderly for Admiral Nimitz in World War II. "Louis" happened upon Alex at the Golden Gate National Cemetery and learned that Alex was looking for Admiral Nimitz's grave. "Louis", knowing where it was, took Alex to it.

France sings for the United States!

Don't miss this! Delightful!

Chocolat à l'ancienne

2008-05-13T14:01:00.013+02:00

Old-fashion Hot Chocolate

Chocolat à l'ancienne with a slice of brioche
The weather forecast calls for today to be very warm, yet this morning, Louis got up craving the chocolat à l'ancienne he has enjoyed at several places in Paris. So, call Louis crazy (Ed: OK, Louis, you're crazy!) but on this warm morning, Louis is posting une recette pour chocolat à l'ancienne, old-fashion hot chocolate. Warning: Nesquick this isn't! Without further ado,
À table!

Chocolat à l'ancienne

INGRÉDIENTS:

6 oz. semisweet chocolate, chopped (Louis likes the Valrhonn\a chocolate)
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons hot water, divided
3 cups hot whole milk
Sugar, to taste
Whipped cream
Chocolate curls

MÉTHODE:

1) Using a double boiler or a heat-safe glass bowl over simmering water, melt the chopped chocolate into ¼ cup of the water. 2) Stir in the 3 tablespoons hot water and milk until the chocolate mixture is smooth.
3) Pour the hot chocolate into cups and add sugar as desired.
4) Garnish each cup with a spoonful of whipped cream and a few chocolate curls.

Voici! Bon appétit!

Plus de recettes for chocoholics:

Pots-de-Crème au Chocolat
Gâteau au Chocolat "Cochon-Qui-Vol"
Tarte au Chocolat Noir

Tarte alsacienne d'oignon

2008-05-04T05:59:00.017+02:00

Alsatian Onion Tarte

This onion tarte is similar to the various quiche recettes Louis has posted, but this tarte does not call for cheese. However, it is une recette that is easy to experiement with. A cook in a mood to experiment could add cheese, for example, Comté or Gruyére. Louis is going to bake this again adding Pipérade.

À table!

Alsatian Onion Tarte

INGRÉDIENTS:

pâte brisée (recette suivante)
2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 cups chopped white onions
4 eggs
1 cup half and half
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

MÉTHODE:

1) Sauté the onions in the butter over medium heat for about 10 minutes, until they turn very soft and translucent.
2) Preheat the oven to 375º F (190º C).
3) Fit the pastry into a 10" tarte pan.
4) Sprinkle the onions onto the bottom layer of the pastry.
5) Beat together the eggs, half and half, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
6) Pour the eggs over the onions and bake the quiche for 45-50 minutes, until the eggs are set in the middle.

Cool slightly and serve

Pâte Brisée

Oven preheated to 350º F (180º C )

INGRÉDIENTS:

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
5 oz. (10 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter cut into 1/4" cubes
1/4 cup cold water
1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

MÉTHODE:

1) Prepare a 10" tarte pan, lightly greased with vegetable shortening.*
2) In the bowl of an electric mixer** fitted with the paddle attachment, combine flour and salt.
3) Add the cold butter and mix on low speed until mixture resembles fine bread crumbs, about 1 minute.
4) Add the cold water and lemon juice and continue mixing just until large lumps form.
5) Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and, using your hands, gather the mixture together.
6) Using the heel of your hand, knead the dough gently until it holds together, about 30 seconds.
7) Shape dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.
8) After the pâte is thoroughly chilled, turn it out onto a sheet of lightly floured wax paper placed on a work surface.
9) Roll the pâte out to a thickness of 1/8".
10) Place the prepared pan upside down on the rolled-out pâte.
11) Carefully run your hands under the wax paper and flip the pâte and the pan so that the pan is now on the work surface.
12) Press the pâte into the pan and trim excess pâte by running your rolling pin over the diameter of the pan.
13) Using a fork, lightly prick the bottom of the shell.
14) Cover and chill for 1 hour.
15) Bake slightly at 350º F as per the footnote below*** before filling the shell.

* It is best to use vegetable shortening to grease pans because it contains no moisture. This helps insure a clean release from the pan.
** This assumes a Kitchen Aid mixer.
*** Bake the shell in a 350º F oven just until the moisture is driven out, but before the shell browns. This will insure a crisp crust.

Related recettes:

Quiche Lorraine
Quiche avec Oignons et Poivrons
Quiche au Camembert
...and now for dessert!:
Tarte aux Myrtilles Alsacien

Le Premier Mai: Le Muguet Porte Bonheur

2008-05-01T06:43:00.002+02:00

1 May - the Lilly of the Valley brings happiness

Le Premier Mai is La Fête du Muguet in France. The tradition on this day is to give friends and loved ones a little bouquet of muguet, Lilly-of-the-Valley, for wishes of happiness and to celebrate the arrival of spring.

Louis la Vache wishes happiness for all his readers and friends!

Sablés

2008-04-30T05:49:00.014+02:00

Brittany Biscuits

Sablés are French cookies originating in Bretagne, Brittany. These cookies are also known as Biscuits de Bretagne, Brittany Biscuits and in Anglophone countries as French Butter Cookies. The name 'Sablé' is French for "sand", which refers to the sandy texture of this delicate and crumbly shortbread-like cookie. The traditional shape is round shape with fluted edges and the tops of the cookies are usually brushed with an egg wash to give them a shiny appearance. The finishing touch, which makes them instantly recognizable, is to score a criss-cross pattern on the top of each cookie. Butter is what gives these cookies their wonderful flavor so use the best you can afford. (Readers in the U.S. should seek out the Plugra brand of unsalted butter. Plugra is made in the French style. The name is a play on the French plus gras, more fat. Indeed, it is higher in fat and lower in moisture than the typical U.S.-produced butter. Also, it is a sour cream vs. sweet cream butter, which contributes significantly to its superior taste.)

While Sablés are delicious plain, this versatile dough it can be flavored with ground nuts or zests. Sablés can even be sandwiched together with jam or preserves, ganache, or lemon curd.

À table!

Sablés

INGRÉDIENTS:

8 Tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar
1 egg yolk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup flour
1/4 tsp salt
egg yolk for glaze

MÉTHODE:

1. Cream the butter and sugar together.
2. Add the egg yolk and vanilla, beat thoroughly.
3. In a separate bowl, stir and toss together the flour and salt.
4. Add dry ingredients to the butter mixture and beat until the dough is smooth.
5. Turn the dough out onto a very lightly floured work surface.
6. Shape the dough into a roll about 1 1/2 " in diameter.
7. Wrap in waxed paper or plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.
8. While the dough is chilling, preheat the oven to 350º F (180º C) and get out some cookie sheets.
9. Remove the dough from the refrigerator; remove the wrap.
10. With a thin, sharp knife, slice the dough into rounds about 1/3" thick.
11. Place 1" apart on ungreased cookie sheets.
12. Score the tops in a criss-cross pattern with a fork.
13. Brush the tops with egg yolk.
14. Bake for about 10 minutes, or until the cookies are slightly colored around the edges.
15. Transfer to cooling racks.

Voici! Bon appétit!

Calissons

2008-04-26T06:02:00.012+02:00

Calissons – a unique candy made from almond paste, candied melon and citrus, and topped with Royal glaze - are traditionallly associated with Aix-en-Provence. Thus most of the world’s supply of Calissons comes from Aix. Most visitors to Aix come away with a penchant for the distinctive candy. Calissons are almond-shaped and are typically about two inches in length. They have a texture not unlike that of marzipan, but with a fruitier, distinctly melon-like flavor. They’re hard to find aux États-Unis, so taking the time to make Calissons from scratch is worth the effort.

À table!
Calissons

INGRÉDIENTS:

2 oz crystallized melon, diced
1 oz candied orange peel, diced
3 tablespoons Amandine liqueur
3 tablespoons orange flower water
2 eggs, separated
4 oz superfine sugar
3 oz ground almonds
10 oz heavy cream
2 oz superfine sugar
Powdered sugar

MÉTHODE:

1. Soak the melon and orange peel in the Amandine and orange flour water overnight, and then drain. Discard the soaking liquid.
2. Line a tray of oval-shaped candy molds with plastic wrap and set aside.
3. Cream the egg yolks, 4 oz sugar, and ground almonds.
4. In a separate bowl, beat the heavy cream until soft peaks form.
5. Gently fold the whipped cream and plumped fruits into the egg mixture.
6. Fill candy molds with the nougat batter and freeze until the candies are firm.
7. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, and gradually add the remaining 2 oz of sugar.
8. Continue beating until stiff peaks form.
9. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and pipe the egg whites onto the paper in the same size and shape of the oval candies.
10. Bake in a 200º F (93º C) oven for 90 minutes, until crisp.
11. Serve each calisson topped with a meringue and sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Voici! Bon appétit!

Omelet avec Pipérade et Prosciutto

2008-04-18T06:34:00.020+02:00

Omelete with Pipérade and Prosciutto

Pipérade

Here is a simple omelete avec Pipérade et Prosciutto. Pipérade is a Basque dish typically prepared with onion, sweet peppers, and tomatoes sautéed in olive oil. It may be a main or side dish.

À table!
Omelete avec Pipérade et Prosciutto

Serves 2

Pour l'omelete:
INGRÉDIENTS:

4 large eggs
1/4 tsp. salt
freshly ground pepper
1 Tsp. (or more) olive oil
1 cup Pipérade (la recette ci-dessous)
2 pieces thinly-sliced prosciutto, about 5-6 inches long

MÉTHODE:

1. Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the salt and several grinds of pepper.
2. Stir lightly - just enough to break up the yolks.
3. Set the pan, with about 2 tsps. olive oil in it, over medium-high heat.
4. Add the pipérade, swirl the pan to spread the vegetables and distribute the oil; heat until sizzling.
5. Pour the eggs into the pan and begin stirring the eggs and vegetables continuously with a fork, occasionally shaking the pan.
6. Cook for about 30 seconds or more, stirring, shaking and scraping the sides of the pan to draw the cooked eggs into the center.
7. When all the eggs have started to thicken, clear the eggs from the sides of the pan with a fork and stop stirring.
8. Lay the prosciutto slices across the top of the eggs.
9. Cook for another 30 seconds or so, until the bottom is fully set.
10. At the same time, drizzle a teaspoon or two of olive oil around the outer edge of the eggs and then swirl the pan to make sure the omelet can slide easily.
11. Flip the omelet over with a quick toss of the skillet (or silde it onto a plate and invert it back into the pan, top side down.)
12. Cook the second side for a minute or so to set.
13. Slide the omelet onto the serving plate - or invert it so the prosciutto slices are on top.

Pipérade

INGRÉDIENTS:

Yield: about 2 cups

2 Tsps. olive oil
1 1/4 cups sliced onion (1/4" slices)
2 1/2 cups sliced bell peppers (of different colors, cut into 1/4" strips )
1/2 cup diced tomatoes
1 tsp. chopped garlic
1/4 tsp.salt
freshly ground pepper

MÉTHODE:

1. Sauté the onion slices in the olive oil for 2-3 minutes over medium heat to soften.
2. Stir in the peppers, tomatoes, garlic, salt and pepper
3. Sauté for 6-8 minutes more, tossing occasionally, until the peppers are just tender.

Voici! Bon appétit!

More omelet recettes:
Two omelets from Normandy
Omelettes- très français!

Les Boulangeries-Pâtisseries de Paris: Gèrard Mulot

2008-04-14T03:45:00.014+02:00

...and his recette pour Financiers
Gèrard Mulot 76, rue de Seine 75006, Paris
In one corner of the toney VI ième arrondissement, near the beginning of the VII ième arrondissement, and in the shadows of l'église-Saint-Sulpice (the church made famous by Dan Brown's fiction, "The DaVinci Code" in the quartier St.-Germain-des-Près is one of the finest boulangeries-pâtisseries in Paris, Gèrard Mulot. Also nearby is the palais du Luxembourg, home to the French Sénat and surrounded by le jardin du Luxembourg.

Pâtisserie offerings, edible art, at Gèrard Mulot

Born in the Vosges region of northeastern France in 1949, Mulot says simply that pastry captured his imagination because "when I was young, my mother always made me the most delicious cakes." In 1971 he joined Dalloyau, the old-guard Paris chocolatier and pastry house, where, as a floater, he learned every aspect of his métier.

Macarons, varying in size from huge (on the left) to tiny (at the far right) wait temptingly on the top of Mulot's pâtisserie display case

Mulot likes to experiment with flavor combinations, yet refrains from becoming too avant garde. An example of his experimentation is his orange-cinnamon macarons. (Macarons in France (notice the slight difference in spelling), are very different from the coconut macarOOns of the U.S. In France, macarons are little almond meringue sandwiches filled with various flavors of ganache.) The beauty alone of the products in his showcases make a trip to Gèrard Mulot worthwhile, but sampling the offerings here will confirm that the baked goods here taste as good as they look.

Downstairs from the sales area is the workroom, staffed by as many as 15 pâtissiers et boulangers, many of whom began their work day at 3:30 a.m.

While famous for his pâtisserie and for his chocolates (and unlike many pâtisseries), Mulot also produces very fine breads. (The skill set for boulangerie is different than that for pâtisserie, so it is not particularly common to find a shop skilled in both. Gèrard Mulot is one of the exceptions having both very fine pâtisserie et boulangerie.

Examples of Mulot's traiteur offerings

In addition to le pain et la pâtisserie, Mulot offers beautifully-crafted chocolates and a small selection of items found at un traiteur (caterer). There is a tiny coffee bar at the back of the store where you can enjoy a fine espresso along with your choice of treats. One of the more popular of the small treats sold here are financiers, for which Louis la Vache will now give you Gèrard Mulot's own recette.
À table!

Mulot's divine house-made chocolates

Financiers

Oven 450º F (230º C)

Financier molds, greased with vegetable shortening

INGRÉDIENTS:

7 ounces butter (200 grams)
1 1/2 cups sugar (350 grams)
1/3 cup + 2 Tablespoons flour (100 grams)
1/4 cup ground almonds (50 grams)
2 Tablespoons ground hazelnuts (15 grams)
11 egg whites

MÉTHODE:

1. In a small pan, heat the butter just until it begins to brown, remove the pan from the heat.
2. Toast the ground hazelnuts for about 3 minutes - just until the aroma begins to be released, allow to cool.
3. In the bowl of your mixer, blend the sugar, flour, ground almonds and the ground hazelnuts.
4. Add the egg whites to the dry ingredients, and beat until the egg whites incorporate air and the batter becomes somewhat stiff.
5. As the batter stiffens, incorporate the melted butter.
6. Let the batter sit for 15 minutes.
7. Using a small ladle, pour the batter into the greased molds.
8. Bake in the pre-heated oven for 15 minutes.
9. After baking, place the financier mold on a cooling rack, allow to cool for 15 minutes before depanning.

Gèrard Mulot's recette for quiche lorraine is HERE.
Voici! Bon appétit!

Deux Recettes Avec Noix de Coco

2008-04-13T04:59:00.019+02:00

Two recipes with Coconut

Congolais

Congolais are often baked in pyramid-shaped molds

What in the U.S. we call "coconut macaroons" in France are called "Congolais," "from the Congo." The French version is more moist and "custardy" than what we call macaroons here, thus Congolais must be baked in a mold. Congolais are very easy to make.

Macarons (note the tiny difference in spelling) in France are little almond meringue sandwiches filled with various flavors such as raspberry, coffee, pistachio, etc. San Francisco Bay Area residents, may find real macarons at the Boulangerie (scroll down) on Pine Street between Fillmore and Steiner in San Francisco. This boulangerie is owned by un vrai français, Pascal Rigo, who is originally from Bordeaux. Stepping into his boulangerie is like stepping into a little corner of la belle France. Another place in the Bay Area where you can find real macarons is Pâtisserie Philippe on Townsend Street, another petit coin de la France in San Francisco.

As you see, macarons are not the same as macarOOns!

À table!
Congolais

• Oven 350º F (180º C)
• greased 24 mini-muffin molds
(Congolais are ideally baked in little pyramid-shaped molds, but Louis la Vache hasn't been able to find them in the U.S. However, he did find them in Paris at Dehillerin, which is near Forum des Halles. The 24 mini-muffin pan will work fine.)

INGRÉDIENTS:

2 cups whole milk. (NOT non-fat or low fat; whole milk works best.)
2 teaspoons vanilla
3 cups coconut
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup flour
2 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
3 large eggs

MÉTHODE:
1. In a saucepan, heat the milk until just below boiling. Add the vanilla. (For best results, use the Neilsen-Massey Vanilla from Williams-Sonoma.)
2. While the milk is heating, in a large mixing bowl, blend the dry ingredients together.
3. Pour the hot milk mixture into the dry ingredients, stir.
4. Add the eggs, stirring well after each addition.
5. Spoon the mixture into the greased muffin molds.
6. Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes.
7. Cool for 10 minutes on cooling rack before depanning.

Will keep for 3 days at room temperature.

Coconut Chess Pie

Chess Pies originated in the Deep South. There are several versions, coconut, buttermilk and lemon being the most common. How the name originated is uncertain. Here are two stories about how the name “Chess” came about, one probably more accurate, the other (and more fun one) very probably apocryphal.

The more probable origin is that because these pies are made with cream, butter and eggs, they needed to be kept in the “ice chest,” thus the “chest” was contracted to “chess.” The more fun version is that someone walked through the kitchen on a plantation and asked the black cook what she was making. Her reply was “Jes’ pie.”

This pie has always been one of Louis la Vache's favorites. His mother baked this pie and it was always on the table as one of the dessert choices at Thanksgiving and Christmas. The recette below for the crust is not the one Louis's mother used, but it is her recette for the filling you see here.

This pie may be made with a standard 9” deep dish pie shell. Here, however, is a version with a French twist. Rather than the standard pie shell, this version uses a French pâte sucrée. Louis occasionally adds a hint of almond extract to the pâte. The almond is a nice complementary flavor to the coconut, and makes the crust a bit more interesting. Once again,
À table!

Pâte sucrée

Secret du boulanger: Don’t overwork the dough when mixing otherwise it will toughen and shrink in the pan when baking. A secret to obtaining a flaky crust is to keep the temperature of the dough low. If you touch the dough with your hands, hold your hands under running cold water first. This prevents the dough from melting together and being “processed” by your body heat.

INGRÉDIENTS:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons cold butter
3 tablespoons cold water

MÉTHODE:

1. In a small bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, and salt
2. Using a pastry cutter, large-tined fork, or a food processor on pulse setting, cut the chilled butter into the flour until it resembles coarse sand with a few pea-sized pieces of butter still visible.
3. Sprinkle the cold water onto the mixture and toss gently a few times, just until it forms a ball that holds together.
4. Separate the dough into two balls, flatten slightly into thick disk shapes, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill for several hours before working with it.
5. While the dough is chilling, place a piece of plastic wrap or wax paper on a work surface.
6. Dust the plastic wrap or wax paper with flour.
7. Unwrap the chilled dough and place it on the floured plastic wrap or wax paper.
8. Roll the dough out to fit in a 9” springform or pie pan.
9. Place a greased pan over the dough.
10. Carefully reach under the plastic wrap or wax paper under the dough with both hands.
11. Flip the dough into the pan. Shape the dough and trim the rim.
12. Set the prepared pasty shell in the refrigerator while preparing the filling - or - to insure a crisper crust that absorbs less of the filling, bake the crust at 350º F (180º C) until it is white, but before it begins to brown.

Filling

Oven 400º F (200º C) - initiallly

INGRÉDIENTS:

1 - 7 oz package coconut
half and half
1/2 cup sugar
2/3 stick of butter at room temperature
2 Tablespoons flour
2 teaspoons vanilla
3 extra large eggs

MÉTHODE:

1. Spread the coconut over the bottom of the prepared pastry shell.
2. Carefully pour half and half over the coconut - just enough to wet the coconut.
3. In a mixer, cream together the butter, flour and sugar.
4. Add the vanilla. (For best results, use the Neilsen-Massey Vanilla from Williams-Sonoma.)
5. Add the eggs, one at a time, blending well after each addition.
6. Spoon the mixture over the coconut and half and half.
7. Carefully wrap a strip of foil around the top edge of the shell to prevent over-browning.
8. Bake at 400º for ten minutes. Reduce heat to 350º.
9. Bake until golden brown, about 40 minutes more. The center should test clean with an inserted toothpick.
10. Cool on cooling rack to prevent the bottom of the shell from sweating.

Voici! Bon appétit!

Les fromages de la France: Roquefort

2008-04-05T23:48:00.035+02:00

The cheeses of France: Roquefort

Les fromages de la France - la série:
Camembert
Brie
Pont l'Évêque
Comté

There is no doubt that Roquefort ranks (along with Brie and Camembert) as one of the three most famous fromages de la France. The name is derived from the Occitan word ròcafòrt. (Occitan is a Romance language spoken in Southern France and pockets of Italy and Spain. Rare now, Occitan, la langue d'oc, once was a strong competitor to la langue d'oïl, the dialect spoken around Paris and northern France.)

In keeping with its Occitan-derived name, Roquefort is produced in the south of France. It is an unpasteurized ewe's-milk blue-veined cheese and is one of the world's greatest blue cheeses, along with bleu d'Auvergne, Stilton and Gorgonzola. The Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (A.O.C.) law dictates that only those cheeses aged in the natural Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon may bear the name Roquefort, as it is a recognized geographical area. Advocates for Roquefort compete with the advocates for the Italian Parmigiano Reggiano, the French Brie de Meaux and Époisses de Bourgogne, and the advocates for the English Stilton cheeses for the title "King of Cheeses".

Roquefort is white, crumbly and slightly moist, with distinctive veins of blue mold. It has a characteristic odor and flavor with a notable taste of butyric acid; the blue veins provide a sharp tang. The overall flavor sensation begins slightly mild, then becomes sweet, then smoky, fading to a salty finish. It has no rind; the exterior is edible and slightly salty. A typical wheel of Roquefort weighs between 2.5 and 3 kilograms (5 - 6 pounds), and is about 10 cm (4") thick. Each kilogram of finished cheese requires about 4.5 litres of milk making Roquefort high in protein and minerals, especially calcium - and high in fat.

Legend has it that the cheese was discovered when a young shepherd, eating his lunch of bread and ewes' milk cheese, saw a beautiful girl in the distance. Abandoning his meal in a nearby cave, he ran to meet her. When he returned a few months later, the Penicillium roqueforti mold had transformed his plain cheese into Roquefort.

Cheese similar in style to Roquefort is mentioned in literature as far back as AD 79, when Pliny the Elder remarked upon its rich flavor. In 1411 Charles VI granted a monopoly for the ripening of the cheese to the people of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon as they had been doing for centuries. Cheesemaking colanders have been discovered among the region's prehistoric relics.

In 1925 the cheese was the first recipient of France's Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée designation when the regulations controlling its production and naming were defined. A landmark ruling in 1961 by the Tribunal de Grande Instance at Millau decreed that although the method for the manufacture of the cheese could be followed across the south of France, only those whose ripening occurred in the natural caves of Mont Combalou in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon were permitted to bear the name Roquefort.

The Penicillium roqueforti mold that gives Roquefort its distinctive character is found in the soil of the local caves. Traditionally the cheesemakers extracted it by leaving bread in the caves for six to eight weeks until it was consumed by the mold. The interior of the bread was then dried to produce a powder. The mold is now typically produced in a laboratory, which allows for greater consistency. The mold may either be added to the curd, or introduced as an aerosol, through holes poked in the rind.

Roquefort is made entirely from the milk of the Lacaune, Manech and Basco-Béarnaise breeds of sheep. Prior to the A.O.C. regulations of 1925 a small amount of cows or goats milk was sometimes added.

The cheese is produced throughout the département de Aveyron and part of the nearby départements de Aude, Lozère, Gard, Hérault et Tarn. This area of France is notable for its limestone geology, which dictates what species of grass and wildflowers grow upon it, and thus influences the taste of the milk.

The départements producing Roquefort. Note Languedoc which derives its name from la langue d'oc, discussed briefly above. Oc is Occitan for "yes," so the name translates literally as "the language of yes." The "cit" in the name Occitan is the root for the English "city".

The largest producer, accounting for 60% of production, is la Société des Caves de Roquefort, which holds several caves and opens its facilities to tourists. They market their cheese under the label Société Roquefort. Roquefort Papillon (Butterfly) is another well-known brand. The five other producers, each holding only one cave, are: Carles, Gabriel Coulet, Fromageries occitanes, Vernières et Le Vieux Berger. Production of all brands in 2005 totaled 18,830 tons, (about three million cheeses) making Roquefort, after Comté, France's second most popular cheese.

Société Roquefort: this brand accounts for 60% of Roquefort production.

The A.O.C. regulations that govern the production of Roquefort include:
• All milk used must be delivered at least 20 days after lambing has taken place.
• The addition of rennet must occur within 48 hours of milking.
The Penicillium roqueforti used in the production must be produced in France from the natural caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.
• The salting process must be performed using dry salt.
• The whole process of maturation, cutting, packaging and refrigeration of the cheese must take place in the commune of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.

As with the other parts in this series on les fromages de la France, Louis la Vache will now give you une recette, this one naturellement using Roquefort.

À table!

Poulet avec de la sauce à roquefort et à ail
Chicken with Roquefort-Garlic Sauce

INGRÉDIENTS:

for chicken:
9 skinless chicken pieces
9 - 12 strips bacon
1 onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic, whole
olive oil as needed

for Roquefort-Garlic sauce:
2 Tablespoons garlic puree
1 wedge roquefort cheese, crumbled
3 Tablespoons crème fraîche
1/3 cup olive oil
salt and black pepper to taste

MÉTHODE:

1. Wrap skinned chicken pieces with bacon and secure with toothpicks.
2. In a large oven-proof pan with a lid, heat the garlic cloves in olive oil. (Do not brown the cloves, but heat them enough to impart their flavor into the oil.)
3. Remove garlic cloves and save.
4. Rub the chicken with salt and pepper and sear chicken in olive oil until golden brown.
5. Stir in the sliced onions and the garlic cloves.
6. Cover pan and place in 350º F (180º C) oven for 1 hour.
7. When the chicken is done, remove the pan from the oven, then remove the chicken to a dish; leave the oil and juices in the pan.

Roquefort-Garlic Sauce:

SAUCE:

1. Heat garlic puree gently in 1/3 cup olive oil in the pan (do not brown).
2. Add the crumbled wedge of Roquefort.
3. Add the crème fraîche
3. Stir until the cheese is melted.
4. From the pan used to cook the chicken, skim the fat, and strain the pan juices of the bacon and chicken.
5. Add to the sauce and mix well while reheating.

Serve sauce with the baked chicken.

Voila! Bon appétit!

Plus de recettes en utilisant le Roquefort

Flan au Roquefort
Hamburgers avec buerre Roquefort

Recettes classiques de la cuisine française: Coq-au-vin

2008-03-31T09:53:00.014+02:00

Classic recipes of the French kitchen: Coq-au-vin
Chicken in Red Wine with Onions, Mushrooms and Bacon
Une vendeuse de volaille, poultry seller, at the market in Antony on the southwest side of Paris.
Louis la Vache will share with you aujord'hui la recette pour le cog-au-vin de nôtre dame de la poche, "Our Lady of the Ladle," Julia Child.

Occasionally you will find this recette classique de la cuisine française made with white wine (for example reisling from the Alsace region) but most commonly it is made with vin rouge. In the French countryside, coq-au-vin is often made with older roosters because they contain a lot of connective tissue, which creates a richer broth when cooked. In France it is usually accompanied only by parsley potatoes; buttered green peas could be included if you wish a green vegetable. For 4 - 6 people.

À table!

Coq-au-vin

INGRÉDIENTS:

3-4 oz piece of salt pork or unsliced bacon
2 Tablespoons butter
2 1/2-3 lb. frying chicken, cut up.
1/2 tsp. salt
1/3 tsp. black pepper
1/4 cup cognac
3 cups of a full-bodied red wine
1-2 cups beef bouilon
1/2 Tablespoon tomato paste
2 cloves garlic, peeled and mashed
1/4 tsp. thyme
1 bay leaf
12 - 24 brown braised pearl onions
1/2 lb. sautéed mushrooms
3 Tablespoons flour
2 Tablespoons butter, softened

MÉTHODE:

1. Remove the rind of the salt pork (or uncut bacon) and slice it into lardons, rectangles 1/4" across and 1 inch long.
2. Simmer the lardons in a pan holding 2 quarts of water for ten minutes.
3. Rinse the lardons in cold water and dry them.
4. Place the lardons in a heavy 10" casserole.
5. Sauté the lardons in the first 2 Tablespoons of butter until they are very lightly browned.
6. Remove the lardons to a side dish, leaving the butter and rendered fat in the casserole.
7. Dry the chicken thoroughly.
8. Brown it in the fat left in the casserole.
9. Season the chicken with the salt and black pepper.
10. Return the lardons to the casserole with the chicken.
11. Cover and cook slowly (300º F/150º C) for ten minutes, turning the chicken once.
12. Uncover, pour in the cognac.
13. Averting your face, ignite the cognac with a lighted match, shaking the casserole back and forth a few times until the flames subside.
14. Pour the wine into the casserole.
15. Add just enough bouillon to cover the chicken.
16. Stir in the tomato paste, garlic and herbs.
17. Bring to a simmer.
18. Cover and simmer slowly for 25-30 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and its juices run a clear yellow when the meat is pricked with a fork.
19. Remove the chicken to a side dish.
20. While the chicken is cooking prepare the pearl onions and the mushrooms.
21. Simmer the chicken cooking liquid in the casserole for a minute or two, skimming off fat.
21. Raise the heat and boil rapidly, reducing the liquid to about 2 1/4 cups.
22. Remove from heat, discard the bay leaf.
23. Blend the second 2 Tablespoons of butter and the flour together into a smooth paste (beurre manié).
24. Beat the paste into the hot liquid with a wire whisk.
25. Bring to a simmer, stirring for a minute or two. The sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon lightly.
26. Arrange the chicken in the casserole.
27. Place the mushrooms and onions around the chicken and baste with the sauce.

Note: If the dish is not to be served immediately, film the top of the sauce with bouillon and dot it with small pieces of butter. Set aside uncovered. It can now wait indefinitely. Shortly before serving, bring to a a simmer, basting the chicken with the sauce. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes, until the chicken is hot through.

Voici! Bon appétit!

Voyez également:
Bouillon de Volaille "Marie-Antoinette"
Torte de Noix de Pécan avec Moka Crème

Nouveau blog des photos par Louis la Vache.

2008-03-27T20:50:00.003+01:00

Louis la Vache has begun a new photo blog: San Francisco Bay Daily Photo.

"Aile et voile" par l'épose de Louis la Vache
Here's a recap of the first eight posts:
1. Maundy Thursday, le 20 mars "Claire de lune"
2. Good Friday, le 21 mars "0630 heures"
3. Holy Saturday, le 22 mars "Vapeur et voile"
4. Easter Sunday, le 23 mars "La lune au dessous le pont Oakland-San Francisco Bay"
5. Lundi, le 24 mars "Le pont Oakland-San Francisco Bay au jour"
6. Mardi, le 25 mars "Le pont Oakland-San Francisco Bay la nuit"
7. Mercredi, le 26 mars "Aile et voile"
8. Jeudi, le 27 mars"Encore le pont Oakland-San Francisco Baie"

Recette pour Pâques : Jambe d'agneau Provençal

2008-03-19T19:09:00.013+01:00

Recipe for Easter: Rotisserie Leg of Lamb
UPDATE and CORRECTION! Louis la Vache, not being a native francophone, sometimes makes errors in his use of la langue française. A case in point is his use of "jambe d'agneau". Louis had an unease about using the word jambe, but couldn't remember the correct term (if he was, in fact, wrong) and no native French speaker was available to ask when he wrote the post. He was kindly corrected by Alex, who writes Marseille Daily Photo.

Alex wrote:
"Is it very reasonable for a cow to cook lamb ??
In french, we say 'gigot d'agneau"' for 'Leg of Lamb'.
"Jambe d'agneau" is a very funny expression for us!!"

If any of you readers find that Louis has made a mistake in his use of la langue française, PLEASE do not hesitate to correct him! He appreciates your corrections very much!

The slow roasting on the rotisserie makes the leg of lamb self-basting and absolutely delicious.

À table!

Jambe d'agneau Provençal

INGRÉDIENTS:

1 boneless leg of lamb (about 6 pounds) trimmed
1 cup dry red wine
1 small onion, chopped
4 plum or roma tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup fresh parsley
1/2 cup fresh rosemary
6 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

MÉTHODE:

1) Combine everything (except the lamb) in a food processor and blend until smooth.
2) Place leg of lamb in a large dish and cover with marinade mixture.
3) Coat the lamb evenly with the mariande, cover and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours.
4) Remove lamb from marinade and set aside.
5) Pour marinade into a saucepan and bring to a boil for one minute.
6) Remove the marinade from heat. Set aside.
7) Roll and tie the leg of lamb.
8) Place the leg of lamb on a rotisserie skewer, careful to make sure it is tightly secured and balanced.
9) Place on grill over indirect, medium heat and grill until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 145º F (63º C).
10) Baste with reserved marinade every 20 to 30 minutes. A 6 pound leg will take between 1 1/2 and 2 hours.
11) When done, remove from grill and skewer. Set aside and allow to rest for abut 20 minutes. Carve and serve.

Voici! Bon appétit!

Le mois du Macaron!

2008-03-04T04:51:00.003+01:00

The month of the macaron!

Louis la Vache discovered at the blog Chocoholic that mars est le mois du macaron! Louis adore les macarons! See Louis's histoire des macarons. Louis reminds his readers aux États-Unis that macarons are not the same as Coconut MacaroOns!.

San Francisco Bay Area residents can get their macaron fix at Pâtisserie Philippe.

Les fromages de la France: Comté

2008-03-03T06:52:00.012+01:00

The Cheeses of France: Comté

Les fromages de la France - la série:
Camembert
Brie
Pont l'Évêque

Comté is a French cheese made from unpasteurized cow's milk in the Franche-Comté region of eastern France.
Comté has the highest production figures of all French Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) cheeses. Production totals around 40,000 tons annually.

Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC), "controlled term of origin" is the French certification granted to certain French geographical areas for wines, cheeses, butters, and other agricultural products, all under the auspices of the government bureau Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO). The name Comté is French for 'county', and the cheese is named after the Franche-Comté region.

Franche-Comté

The cheese is made in flat circular discs, each between 40 and 70 centimetres in diameter, and around 10 centimetres in height. Each weighs up to 50 kilograms (110 pounds). The fat content is around 45%. The rind is usually a dusty-brown color, and the internal pâte is a pale creamy yellow. The texture is relatively hard and flexible, and the taste is mild, slightly sweet, and "nutty." Comté is very similar to the Swiss-made Gruyére.

The manufacture of the cheese began as early as le XII ème siècle. Shepherds would spend the summer months in their remote huts of the Jura massif. The distance from towns of any size meant that any cheese they made would need to mature over a period of months. The milk was pooled between neighboring shepherds, and the cheeses were stored until being carried to market at the end of the season.

As summer ended, so did production of Comté, with the cows' milk instead being used to make Vacherin Mont d'Or. Eight départements, each of which surrounds Franche-Comté, are now entitled to produce the cheese. The eight départements include parts of Bourgogne, Rhône-Alpes et Lorraine.

To make the cheese, milk is poured into large copper vats where it is gently warmed. Rennet is added, causing the milk to coagulate. The curds are then cut into tiny white grains that are then stirred before being heated again for 30 minutes. The contents are then placed into molds and the whey is pressed out. After several hours the mold is opened and left to mature in cellars, first for a few weeks at the dairy, and then over several months in curing/storage facility. Comté is aged 6 months to a year, whereas Swiss Gruyère is sometimes only aged for 3 months. Each cheese takes up to 600 litres (158.5 gallons) of milk to produce.

The manufacture of Comté has been controlled by AOC regulations since it became one of the first cheeses to receive AOC recognition in 1958, with full regulations introduced in 1976. The AOC regulations state that:
• Only milk from Montbéliard cows are permitted, and each must have at least a hectare of grazing.
• The cows may only be fed fresh, natural feed, with no silage.
• The milk must be transported to the site of production immediately after milking.
• Renneting must be carried out within a stipulated time after milking, according to the storage temperature of the cheese.
• The milk may be heated to no more than 40º C (104º F).
• Salt may only be applied directly to the surface of the cheese.
• A casein label containing the date of production must be attached to the side of the cheese, and maturing must continue for at least four months.

Each cheese is awarded a score out of 20 by inspectors, according to 'overall appearance' (1 mark), 'quality of rind' (1.5), 'internal appearance' (3.5), 'texture' (5), and taste (9). Those scoring 15 or above are given green casein labels (with the characteristic image of a bell), with 12-15 being given red labels. Any cheese scoring under 3 marks for taste, or under 12 overall is prohibited from being named Comté.

Comté is one of the most popular cheeses in France - it is as ubiquitous in French kitchens as cheddar is in American kitchens. No grated cheese may be sold under the Comté name.

No article about food at The Frog Blog is complete without une recette, so Louis la Vache offers you this recette pour quiche avec oignons et poivrons.

À table!

Quiche avec Oignons et Poivrons

INGRÉDIENTS:

pâte brisée (recette suivante)
1 Tablespoon olive oil
3 cups sliced onion
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried sage
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 cup thinly sliced red bell pepper
1 cup (packed) grated Comté cheese
3 large eggs
1 cup milk

MÉTHODE:

1) Preheat oven to 375º F (190º C)
2) Place the pâte brisée on a baking tray.
3) Place a medium-sized skillet over medium heat and wait about 2 minutes.
4) Add the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion, saute for 5 minutes, and then add the salt, thyme, sage, and mustard.
5) Cover the pan, lower the heat, and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6) Stir the balsamic vinegar and bell pepper into the onions, turn the heat up to medium, and cook, uncovered, for another 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
7) Sprinkle the Comté cheese into the pâte brisée, then spoon the onion-pepper mixture on top of the cheese.
8) Whisk together the eggs, milk, and black pepper to taste, and slowly pour this over the vegetables and cheese.
9) Bake on the baking tray in the lower third of the oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until the custard is set. Cool for at least 10 minutes before slicing, and serve at any temperature.

Pâte Brisée

Oven preheated to 350º F (180º C )

INGRÉDIENTS:

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
5 oz. (10 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter cut into 1/4" cubes
1/4 cup cold water
1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

MÉTHODE:

1) Prepare a 9" diameter deep-dish pan, lightly greased with vegetable shortening.*
2) In the bowl of an electric mixer** fitted with the paddle attachment, combine flour and salt.
3) Add the cold butter and mix on low speed until mixture resembles fine bread crumbs, about 1 minute.
4) Add the cold water and lemon juice and continue mixing just until large lumps form.
5) Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and, using your hands, gather the mixture together.
6) Using the heel of your hand, knead the dough gently until it holds together, about 30 seconds.
7) Shape dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.
8) After the pâte is thoroughly chilled, turn it out onto a sheet of lightly floured wax paper placed on a work surface.
9) Roll the pâte out to a thickness of 1/8".
10) Place the prepared pan upside down on the rolled-out pâte.
11) Carefully run your hands under the wax paper and flip the pâte and the pan so that the pan is now on the work surface.
12) Press the pâte into the pan and trim excess pâte by running your rolling pin over the diameter of the pan.
13) Using a fork, lightly prick the bottom of the shell.
14) Cover and chill for 1 hour.
15) Bake slightly at 350º F as per the footnote below*** before filling the shell.

* It is best to use vegetable shortening to grease pans because it contains no moisture. This helps insure a clean release from the pan.
** This assumes a Kitchen Aid mixer.
*** Bake the shell in a 350º F oven just until the moisture is driven out, but before the shell browns. This will insure a crisp crust.

Voici! Bon appétit!

Vraie pâtisserie française - dans San Francisco - Pâtisserie Philippe!

2008-02-27T17:03:00.015+01:00

Real French pastry - in San Francisco: Pâtisserie Philippe!
Philippe Delarue, owner of and maître pâtissiere at Pâtisserie Philippe

Although we'd all love to go to Paris for many reasons, one reason Louis la Vache loves Paris is because of the fabulous pâtisseries that can be found there. Alas, we may not be able to go to Paris at the moment, but San Francisco Bay Area residents can step into a little corner of Paris by visiting Patisserie Philippe at 655 Townsend Street in The City. This little corner of la belle France is adjacent to the burgeoning SOMA Mission Bay development. (SOMA = South of Market Street for you Aüslanders - to throw a bit of allemand into the mix here!)

Pâtisserie that tastes as good as it looks! In the photo below is Philippe's "Queens Cake."

The owner of the eponymous Pâtisserie Philippe is Philippe Delarue. (The name translates as "of the street.") Philippe was born and schooled in Le Mans. He did an apprenticeship first in cooking, then in pâtisserie. From Le Mans, he went to Paris where he worked at the world-famous Établissement Lenôtre.

The savory case - sandwiches, Croque Monsieur, quiche, and salads.

In French baking, there is a distinction between boulangeries and pâtisseries, and this distinction is important in understanding Philippe's self-appointed mission. A boulangerie typically emphasizes bread and related products, with very little emphasis on pâtisserie. Boulangeries that also offer pâtisserie typically offer pâtisserie rustique. A Bay Area example of this is Pascal Rigo's Boulangerie on Pine Street just off Fillmore in San Francisco.

Heavenly clouds of meringue

On the other hand is the pâtisserie, which focuses on artisan pastry making, placing very little emphasis on bread. There is a practical reason for this: boulangerie requires one skill set; pâtisserie another. Thus at Pâtisserie Philippe, you will find baguettes, but very few other bread items. Instead, just as if you had walked into Gérard Mulot in the shadows of Saint-Sulpice in the VI ème arrondissement of Paris, at Pâtisserie Philippe you will find displays of some of the most beautiful pâtisserie you can imagine. And best of all, Philippe's pâtisserie tastes as wonderful as it looks!

Financiers, Philippe's sinfully-good version of the All-American Chocolate Chip cookie, brioche and other treats near the cash register

Philippe, having a strong wanderlust, realized that as a maître pâtissiere with experience at Lenôtre on his résumé, he could find work anywhere in the world. From Paris, he went to Londres, Montreal, Florida, New York City, Boston and New Orleans before landing in San Francisco. About San Francisco, Philippe says, "I love it here. The people, the city, the weather, the scenery. I love everything about The City."

Viennoisserie (croissants and their relatives) along with Bostock, Pithiviers and other items are below the meringues.

When he moved here seven years ago, Philippe worked at Pascal Rigo's Boulangerie where, most often, he found himself making macarons. There he realized "it was time to open my own shop as I knew i could offer to the San Franciscan something I didn't see in The City at the time: really truly French pastries, and the quality, not the quantity or mediocre pastries. I thrive on doing my best and keeping the quality and being always consistent. Probably my favorite thing to bake is macarons. You can be very creative and there are no limits." Philippe has just added a macaron avec cassis to his offerings. Louis la Vache attests to it's qualité!

Pâtisserie Philippe opened on le 26 mars 2007. Bay Area residents hungry for a little taste of France will be well-pleased by a visit to 655 Townsend Street!

Philippe was kind enough to share with us his recette for a popular morning treat at his shop: bostock. Bostock would remind nous américains of what we call "French toast."
A slice of Bostock reposes on a table by the lillies, not realizing that it is about to be devoured by a hungry Louis la Vache!

À table!

Bostock

Oven/four: 370º F/185º C

INGRÉDIENTS:

6 3/4" thick slices day-old Brioche loaf
Syrup (recette suivante
Almond crème (recette aussi suivante)
1 1/2 cups sliced almonds
powdered sugar

MÉTHODE:

1) Slice the day-old brioche loaf into slices about 3/4" thick.
2) Soak the slices in slightly-warmed syrup.
3) Spread the almond crème over one side of each of the syrup-soaked slices of brioche.
4) Next, cover the brioche with the sliced almonds.
5) Dust generously with powdered sugar.
6) Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
7) Place the slices on the baking sheet and bake in the pre-heated oven for about 15 minutes or until the tops are golden brown.

Bostock is best enjoyed slightly warm.

Syrup:
Boil together 3 cups of water, 3 cups of sugar and add 1 Tablespoon Orange Blossom water.

Almond Crème:

Ingrédients:

4 oz. butter
4 oz. sugar
4 oz. almond meal
pinch of salt
2 whole eggs
2 Tablespoons corn starch

Méthode:

In a medium bowl, mix together the butter, sugar, almond meal, salt and cornstarch. Add the eggs, one at a time, and mix well.

Voici! Bon appétit!

Ratatouille Niçoise

2008-02-24T19:24:00.010+01:00

Ratatouille "on the hoof," so to speak (please forgive Louis la Vache for using that term), at the market at Antony, southwest of Paris.

Ratatouille Niçoise is a traditional French Provençal stewed vegetable dish, originating (as the name implies) in Nice. The dish, already popular, became even more so as a result of the Pixar movie of the same name.

The word ratatouille comes from touiller, which means to toss food, an appropriate name as the ingredients are tossed into the pan . Originally ratatouille was a dish for poor farmers, prepared in the summer with fresh vegetables. The original ratatouille niçoise used only courgettes (zucchini), tomatoes, poivrons (bell peppers), onion, and garlic. Most modern versions add aubergine (eggplant) to that mixture.

In France ratatouille is usually served as a side dish, but also may be served as a meal on its own (accompanied by rice, or une baguette). Ratatouille can be used as a filling for savory crêpes or in an omelette.

There are variations of ratatouille in other cuisines. American chef Thomas Keller, owner of The French Laundry restaurant in California's Napa Valley, served as food consultant to the Pixar film, "Ratatouille." The film's producer, Brad Lewis, spent two days in the kitchen of Keller's restaurant. Lewis asked Keller how he would cook ratatouille if the most famous food critic in the world were to visit his restaurant. In a moment of inspiration, Keller fanned the vegetables in a high sculptural form with a palette knife. The dish became the focus of the climactic scene in the film.

In Keller's version, a pipérade is made of peeled, finely chopped, and reduced bell peppers, yellow onions, tomatoes, garlic, and herbs. The pipérade is spread thin in a baking tray or casserole dish, then layered on top with evenly-sized thinly-sliced rounds of zucchini, yellow squash, Japanese eggplant, and roma tomatoes, covered in parchment paper, then baked slowly for several hours to steam the vegetables. The parchment is removed so that the vegetables may be roasted. To serve, the pipérade is formed into a small mound, and the vegetable rounds arranged in a fanned-out pattern to cover the pipérade base and a balsamic vinaigrette is drizzled on the plate.

Thomas Keller's version of ratatouille.

Without further ado,
À table!

Ratatouille

INGRÉDIENTS

2 1 lb. eggplants, cut into cubes
1 ¾ teaspoons plus ¾ teaspoon salt, divided
2 ½ lbs. peeled fresh tomatoes
5 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1/3 cup loosely packed, chopped fresh basil
¾ cup loosely packed, chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 ½ lbs. white onions, thinly sliced
3 red or yellow bell peppers, cored, seeded, and chopped
2 lbs. zucchini, cut lengthwise and then into ½-inch slices
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 Tablespoon herbes de provençe

MÉTHODE

1) Place a single layer of paper towels on 2 large plates.
2) Place the cubed eggplant onto the plates and sprinkle with 1 ¾ teaspoon salt. Allow the eggplant to sit for 20 minutes.
3) In a large saucepan, cook the tomatoes, garlic, black pepper, basil, and parsley, uncovered, over medium heat.
4) In a large skillet, sauté the onions and bell peppers in a small amount of olive oil over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very lightly browned. Remove the skillet from the heat and transfer the browned vegetables to the tomato mixture.
5) Pat the eggplant dry with a fresh paper towel and add it, along with the zucchini to the tomato mixture.
6) Cover the pot and cook the stew over low-medium heat for 45 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.
7) Add the white wine, the herbes de provençe and ¾ teaspoon salt and cook for an additional 5 minutes.

Makes 12 servings.

Et voila! Bon appétit!

Gâteau "velours-rouge" pour le jour de Valentine

2008-02-13T04:20:00.001+01:00

Red Velvet cake for Valentine's Day
Red Velvet Cake, a favorite in the U.S. south, here decorated for Valentine's Day

Louis la Vache admits that this recette is decidedly NOT French - but it is perfect for Valentine's Day! The true origins of Red Velvet cake are obscure and complicated by Urban Legend stories. The cake has long been associated with the cooking of the U.S. south more than with any other region, although it is also known in Canada. A resurgence in the popularity of the cake is partly attributed to the 1989 film "Steel Magnolias" in which the groom's cake (another southern tradition) is a Red Velvet cake.

À table!
La recette est ICI

Gâteau au Yaourt

2008-02-03T09:05:00.000+01:00

Yogurt Cake

Une recette pour Gâteau au Yaourt is a found in almost every cuisine française, French kitchen. Il est très facile de faire, very easy to make, and it is enjoyed by the young, the old, and everyone in between. The key to its simplicity is it uses a pot de yaourt, a tub of yogurt, and the empty tub becomes the measure for the rest of the ingredients. This no-scale recipe is a notable exception to the normal méthode française, in which quantities are measured by weight rather than volume.

Gâteau au Yaourt is very popular with kids, who love a simple, moist and fluffy cake. But what they especially like is that they can make it almost entirely on their own. None of the steps are difficult, none of the ingredients are weighed, and with the intensive sandbox training kids have, they are usually experts at the emptying and filling of small-sized containers.

The basic recette pour gâteau au yaourt lends itself to many variations. You can add citrus zest or peel for a tasty lemon or orange cake, you can add nuts to the batter, you can slice the baked cake in two and spread a layer of jam in the middle, you can add fresh raspberries or blueberries to the batter, you can add a (drained) can of sliced pears - whatever strikes your fancy.

Without further ado,
À table!

INGRÉDIENTS:

2 tubs of plain yogurt (125 ml each, the French standard; U.S. readers: 125 ml = slightly more than 4 ounces. The closest U.S. equivalent size is the 113 ml tub from Dannon (Danone in Europe), such as in their "Activa" line.)
2 tubs sugar
1/2 tub vegetable oil
2 teaspoons vanilla
3 tubs sifted flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
3 eggs

MÉTHODE:

1) Preheat oven to 350º (180º C)
2) Generously grease and flour a 9" (22 cm) round cake pan. (For the photo, Louis la Vache used a fluted quiche pan.)
3) In a large mixing bowl, combine the yogurt, the oil and the sugar with a wooden spoon.
4) Stir in the vanilla.
5) Add the eggs, one at a time, stirring well after each addition.
6) In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder.
7) Add the flour mixture to the batter in 3 or 4 additions, stirring until just combined. (Like a muffin, pancake or waffle batter, you don't want to over-mix.)
8) Pour the batter into the cake pan.
9) Bake for 50 - 60 minutes, until the top springs back from a light touch or a toothpick comes out clean.
10) Remove from oven, place on a cooling rack, wait at least 10 minutes before depanning.
11) Dust with powdered sugar if you wish for a little garnish.

Et voila! Bon appétit!

Nôtre mariage dans l'église 4 novembre 2007

2008-02-01T15:53:00.001+01:00

Our church wedding, 4 November 2007
Zion Lutheran Church, Piedmont, CA

Clic sur les images pour les agrandir.

Although Yuna and I were married in a civil ceremony on le 11 juillet, we wanted a "real" wedding dans une église. We assembled components of the historic Lutheran liturgy around a theme of carrying the Gospel to the four corners of the earth. (Matthew 28:19) Accordingly, the Gospel lesson was read in the four languages we speak: English by Pastor Aldrich, in Mandarin and Japanese by two of Yuna's friends et en français par un de mes amis française.

More images and text HERE.

Gougères

2008-01-20T08:04:00.000+01:00

In French cuisine, a gougère is a savory pâte de choux with cheese. Grated cheese may be mixed into the batter, cubes of cheese may be pushed into the top, or both. Gougères are sometimes called cheese puffs en anglais.

Gougères can be made as small, finger-sized pastries, or filled with ingredients such as mushrooms, beef, or ham. In the latter case, the gougère is usually made using a ring or pie tin. Traditionally, gougères are made with Gruyère, but other cheeses are sometimes used. Gougères are a specialty of Bourgogne.

À table!

INGRÉDIENTS:

1 cup water

8 tablespoons butter, cut into ½-inch pieces

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

4 large eggs

1 ½ cups Gruyere cheese, shredded

3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon black pepper

MÉTHODE:

1) Preheat oven to 375 degrees and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

2) In a large saucepan, bring water, butter, and salt to a rapid, rolling boil. Make sure all the butter is melted, and then add flour.

3) Stir the mixture for 20-30 seconds, until a sticky dough ball forms and begins pulling away from the sides of the pan.

4) Reduce heat to low-medium heat and cook, stirring, for 90 seconds. Remove from heat and set aside for 5 minutes.

5) Beat in eggs, one at a time, along with cheeses and seasonings.

6) Place heaping teaspoonfuls onto prepared baking sheets 1 inch apart.

7) Bake, rotating sheets halfway through, for 25-30 minutes. The gougeres are done when they are a deep golden brown and puffed. Serve immediately.

Makes 10 servings.

Note for San Francisco Bay Area readers: If you don't want to make your own gougéres, you can order them from Pâtisserie Philippe, 655 Townsend Street, San Francisco, 94103 ~ 415.558.8016. Philippe's version is quite tasty! He adds chopped fresh herbs to the pastry.