Swarming is nearly upon us in Indiana, so I’m re-posting a link to the Treatment-Free Beekeeping Podcast – How to Catch Swarms with Solomon Parker.

left->right 1614, CB12, 1203, Baited-8, 1211, 1110, 1635

Don’t have your traps out yet?  It’s time to get on it! Don’t have them made and ready for deployment?  THERE’S STILL TIME, but you’re really going to have to get moving! Honeybees will swarm for the rest of the summer. The largest glut occurs in the beginning of the season, but late swarms are valuable and oftentimes overwinter.  One thing is certain, you won’t catch em if you’re not trying.

Solomon and I discuss the nuts and bolts of swarm trapping during this podcast.  Much of the show is about targeting feral populations and basic trap deployment.  We also talk about fostering relationships with trap hosts as a key component to success in trapping and beekeeping.  If you’re interested in in obtaining free locally-adapted stock this podcast will help.  Things are HEATING UP and traps have been deployed in response to feedback from the staging area as well as from my established colonies. On Sunday 4/8/17 drones were observed returning in the late afternoon to 1605 at the home Apiary. They were returning from somewhere, and my money is on a congregation area (or areas). Traps were loaded and staged about two weeks ago, and for a couple of days there was no scouting attention. On Saturday and Sunday (4/8 & 4/9) scouts began showing interest in staged traps and have been doing so ever since.

Special NOTE:

In the past I have questioned the value of placing traps in an established apiary. An evolution in thinking has occurred after observing one of the sites in 2017.  The above picture shows how an Apiary is “staffed” over time through selection.  As the less well suited colonies fail, hardy colonies show themselves by being alive in the Spring.  The naming convention tells information about these colonies.  The stand pictured above has one colony captured in 2011 (1110) and two from 2012 (1203 & 1211).  Mature colonies like these make up the backbone of my production.

In 2016 bees at this site swarmed to traps on the hive stand TWICE, resulting in 1614 and 1635.  Both of these colonies also overwintered.  Give every captured colony a fair shot at overwintering.  You never know what is possible unless you find out.  The single boxes on the stand provide 2 potential trapping opportunities for 2017.  Bees that overwinter and swarm back to the stand have the potential to greatly simplify my life.  Always have a trap proximal to your apiary.  If you have an unoccupied hive stand bait up some woodenware having it setting there.  Amazing things can happen if given the opportunity.

Good luck this season. I’ll be posting trapping progress to the LetMBee Facebook Page.

Are you’re traps deployed?
Noticing any activity yet?

Here’s a shot of most of the traps that have been deployed.  As you can see I’m testing whether elevating traps is necessary.  In the last several years more and more bees on the ground.  If swarms will hit traps located on the ground where you live, there is no easier method for obtaining honeybees.

The post How to Catch Swarms – Treatment-free Beekeeping Podcast appeared first on LetMBee Blog.

Hanging Traps

All but 6 traps have been baited and staged, out of the way. You might be wondering, “why so early?” Bees won’t be swarming yet in Indiana.  To that I’d say, you are right, but there are TWO good reasons to get traps baited and staged a little early. Much of what you read today recommends beekeepers be reactionary as if the sky was always falling.  Beekeeping is more fun when you formulate a logical plan and see it through to a successful end. Understanding biology and having a logical plan is a strategy that is working for me and I think it will help you as well. So here’s what’s going on, and how it contributes to the PLAN.

Bait comb and LGO added

The first reason and main motivation for baiting now is because, THERE ARE MANY TRAPS and it’s going to take  several weeks to take them from storage to deployment. When baiting/loading traps (See – Load a Swarm Trap) the easiest method is to set up an assembly line and get into a rhythm. This type of repetitive task makes it easy to forget to put in a lure or to apply 100% silicone to screw heads. Opening all the traps and completing each step once on all of them increases efficiency. I am budgeting at least two to three weeks to get them all out on my normal trips to and from work.  You can check in on my progress on the LetMBee.com Facebook Page. Deployment will start in my proven SPOTS first, then prospecting for new locations will begin.

Ground Traps

The second reason for staging early is to help understand the swarming progress of honeybees living nearby. I am aware of at least 2 other beekeepers that live within 3 miles of this staging area. There are also feral colonies living close, in the small patches of woods around my place as well as one in a house about a mile away.  Staged traps are a very important to interpreting what bees are doing in your area.  By observing traps in the staging area I gain feedback of scouting activity intensity throughout the summer.  Scouting levels fluctuate as a result of nectar flows and weather conditions.  As conditions become more favorable for swarming it will increase, then subside.

Staging area tips:

HIT in the staging area 2016

The concentration of all of the traps together baited with old comb and Lemon Grass Oil is a draw on scouts for miles around.  Even if they don’t hit the traps, the interest generated is indicative of potential swarming activity where you live.  After deploying most of your traps, keep a few in reserve in  staging. These empties are used to replace those that are occupied by swarms through the season.  When the colonies are transferred from the trap to their new hive the trap is re-baited and placed in the staging area.  The best staging locations are in the shade.  On the NORTH side of buildings (in the northern hemisphere), or between two buildings have shown the best results here.  Traps in mid-day shade catch more swarms.  Staging next to light colored buildings makes activity easier to see from a distance.  Holly can keep an eye on things from the kitchen window.

The Ground Traps above are in the shade on the North side of a building.  Below is a video from 2016 in the same SPOT where the hanging traps are staged this year.

Staging area: feedback

Honeybees begin showing interest in baited traps days to weeks before swarming begins. When scouting is observed it’s important to get your traps deployed quickly.  All ferals in the area will be at similar stages of progression.  For now there has been NO scouting interest here, but that will change and when it does I will be aware. By monitoring the traps in staging, on a daily basis, greater understanding is gained. This is a form of feedback that most beekeepers are not utilizing.   It’s not only good for trapping, but as a way of bench-marking your kept colonies.  When scouting interest is high, your colonies should be showing great activity and curing honey at night.  Now that staging is done I can focus on getting production colonies supered.  The weather has not been cooperating with me.  More on that soon.

Good luck this year.  Hopefully you have your traps and a good plan ready for 2017!  Let the good times ROLL!

How many traps are you going to deploy?
Have you seen scouting activity yet?

The post Swarm Traps – baiting and staging appeared first on LetMBee Blog.

The Survival Podcast Episode – 1217 – On Capturing Wild Swarms
Air Date 9/31/2013

Episode-1217- Jason Bruns on Capturing Wild Swarms

In this podcast from 2013 I had been trapping for only a couple years.  I can hear the lack of confidence in some of my responses, but others surprised me with how inspired I had already become with trapping and observing the resulting colonies grow and become productive.  Several times, Jack questioned as to why I was doing different things.  This was was particularly true when asking about placing traps near known bee trees.  The reason I was doing it was because I didn’t know what would happen.  The experiments I was working on at that time led me to the methods I am currently using.

Some of the practices I was using then have changed.  Other more productive practices have been picked up through observation.  Of specific note in this podcast:  I currently recommend you literally place swarm traps, anywhere you can.  You never know what’s going to happen.  I have been capturing hardy stock at established yards repeatedly now for a couple years.  At the time of this recording I had never observed this behavior.  If you have a hive-stand and it’s not full of active colonies there should be a baited hive body setting there.  If you find productive lines of bees that overwinter well and swarm back to the hive stand it is a great way to increase your number of colonies.

Jack tripped me up a little while discussing trapping in locations with Africanized honeybees.  I still have no direct experience with AHB, but feel confident that honeybees can be safely captured where both are living.  After trap occupation they should be evaluated for aggression.  A larger trap volume is theorized to be preferred by European Honeybees.  If you live in a location known to have AHB use traps of at least 31 LITERS and make sure they are bee tight.  Standard Langstroth deeps are slightly larger than 40 liters and are a great resource as a starting material for swarm traps.

I have communicated with hundreds of people trapping bees in AHB areas over the years since this was recorded.  I have received no reports of individuals catching bees in traps that were too aggressive to work.  The bees are reported as “hotter” than those typically purchased as packages, but they DON’T DIE.  Bees living a feral existence are not bred for docility.  I will take bees that require a veil, gloves and smoke to dead bees, so I feel I can tolerate “some” expression of guard behavior.

If captured bees display an unacceptable level of aggression a couple avenues are available.  Perhaps another beekeeper in your area would be willing to take them.  If they have secluded bee yards perhaps they could be left alone to be productive.  If they are too aggressive for you or give away they should be SELECTED AGAINST and destroyed.  Luckily I’ve never felt the need to do this.  I would recommend it be done in the trap using a method that did not use chemicals.  When evaluating CATCHES, observe the level of aggression.  If they do not meet your criteria they can at least be shut into the trap and disposed of.  Then get to catching more bees.

Jack’s show, The Survival Podcast is a daily mix of practical knowledge about steps that can be taken to create a stable fulfilling life in today’s world.  Many of these seemingly different topics have aided at different times in my beekeepin experience.  Jack introduced me to the design science of Permaculture, which led me to Swarm Trapping.  Visualizing a dead colony of bees as a resource instead of as a direct loss, and turning a “waste product” into more bees came from reading about Permaculture.  I highly recommend the show and think listening to it will make you a better beekeeper.  If you listen you will find that it will help your life in general.

Being self sufficient is at the heart of beekeeping, both for bees and beekeepers.  Sourcing through trapping allows for you to obtain local bees by building a simple device.  Many swarms can be captured in a single trap over many years with minimal maintenance.  Breaking the bond between a colony of bees and a PRICE-TAG makes beekeeping much more fun and easy to justify as a use of your time.  Trapping makes you more resilient.  You can take the PUNCH of losing colonies and not be OUT of beekeeping.  Take the opportunity listen to 1217 and other episodes of the The Survival Podcast.

Here is a link to the original posting about this episode from 9/30/2013.

Are you getting exciting as Spring approaches?
Are you ready?!?

The post Swarm Trapping on the Survival Podcast – air date 9/31/2013 appeared first on LetMBee Blog.

ready for modification

Got some new inner covers from Brushy Mountain for the 8 frame colonies this year.  I have purchased the 10-frame version in the past and have always been happy with them.  I like to modify these inner covers to allow for a 5/16 inch top entrance that is protected by the a standard outer cover.  These inner covers allows for warm moist air to exit the the hive in the winter above the cluster.  Since converting from quilt boxes to this type of inner cover I have had much better success overwintering.  I also have observed far less bearding during summer for colonies that have these inner covers.

These are very similar to the covers I was building back in 2012.  (See Top Entrances from 5/22/2012)  After using those entrances I liked what they did for bees, but they had a down side.  Ants love to build nests between top of those plywood inner covers and the bottom of the outer cover.  I then modified some standard inner covers.  This gave bees access to the space that the ants had previously been occupying.  A healthy colony is all that is needed to keep ants out when a standard inner cover is modified in this way.  

The above gallery shows the basic process.  All that is needed is some contractor shims, glue and nails.  I use  5/8 inch brad nails, but small frame nails will work.  Select the thickest of the shims.  The first couple times you do this you may want to measure them.  Your goal is about 5/16 inches thick on the meaty end.  Most of the shims will meet the requirement, but there’s always a couple that are too thin.  If they aren’t thick enough there’s a chance of the entrance being propolized shut.  The shim is first coated with glue on one side then positioned as shown in the front corners.

After installing the inner cover on an active colony make sure the outer cover is slid as far forward as possible so bees can access the entrance.  After that be aware that guards in healthy colonies will perch up there and be watching you as you approach.

The above picture shows what they look like when on top of a box.  These inner covers allow access to the space directly under the outer cover so ants do not make a home out of your bee hive.  I have been happy enough with them that all my production colonies sport these entrances.  Some colonies use them as entrances more than others and I don’t gauge bee traffic as a sign of their usefulness.  My goal is overwintering and that’s why these covers are in place.

Also I do not like bearding and these covers decrease it.  Bearding is a waste of time and energy.  If bees are on the outside cooling off and lounging about they aren’t inside moving air to cure honey, make wax, feed new brood or anything else that could be happening. Idle time is greatly decreased in mature colonies when using these inner covers along with three deeps.

Modify a couple of your inner covers and give them a try this year.  See how their performance compares to other nearby colonies.  As summer progresses and it gets hot note the differences in bearding.  Be listening for differences in sound coming from bearded vs. unbearded colonies.  Let me know what you think.  Particularly if your colonies are using these inner covers suing 3-Langstroth DEEPS.  THANKS ahead of time.

Are you providing a top entrance?
If so what kind?  I’d like to try em…

The post Top Entrances – Inner Cover Modification 2017 appeared first on LetMBee Blog.

They know the drill

This deep of Lang frames looked like an Adam’s Family Accordion.  It’s a sign of allowing something to happen that should have dealt with a long time ago.  This colony was struggling last fall and I thought it had lived long enough to be out of danger from wax moths.  I thought it had frozen hard enough to kill moths before this colony died.  As you can see I was wrong.  These frames had to be beaten out of the box with a mallet and the chickens went to work on them.

tool for removing comb from foundaitionless frames

The chickens have come to associate frames in their yard with wax worm treats.  I capture many swarms every year.  Not all of them can make it.  I watch for failing colonies in late summer, but wax moths move in quickly that time of year.  If the damage is bad enough the frames go to the chickens.  When using foundationless frames in the brood chamber problems like these are greatly simplified.  The chickens will either remove the damaged comb searching for Worms or it can easily cut out using a cold capping knife.  Any excess comb or propolis is then scraped off with a hive tool and the frames are ready for service.

Don’t let it happen to you

silky webs are bad

I should never have allowed this to happen.  Luckily wax worms are not a vector for bee disease.  When the colony was in it’s death throws I should have shaken the bees from the frames and taken this hive-ware in for cleaning and storage.  No matter how vigilant you are as a beekeeper every once in a while moths are going to establish in some of your equipment.  When they do they will chew on wood and make holes in your frames.  This is a mess, and is best prevented.  It’s much more of a mess when using foundation.  A frame with foundations usually must be totally reworked.

Expensive chicken feed

Foundation is used in my honey supers.  This is one reason I don’t place supers on juvenile colonies during the first year unless I am very certain they will overwinter.  Young swarms are more prone to failure, which will leave supers easy pickings for worms.  It is best to hive newly caught swarms and allow them to focus on distinguishing themselves the first year as survivors.  Only when they have overwintered and show signs of treatment-free vigor can they be trusted to keep wax worms off your equipment.  Healthy colonies will keep wax moths from getting established.

Have you had any experience with Wax Moth’s yet?
If you keep bees long enough you will eventually meet them.

The post Ain’t no party like a wax moth party appeared first on LetMBee Blog.

Old frames now foundationless

Re-working old frames can be tedious, especially if you attempt to put new foundation in them. This task is greatly simplified by switching to foundationless. The most difficult part is getting the old comb and foundation out of the frame. After that the wedge board is removed, rotated 90 degrees, and nailed back to the top bar. The majority of excess wax should be scraped from the frame, but after that it is ready to go back into a bee hive.  It does NOT have to be perfectly clean.

I have hundreds of deep frames out there and only a fraction of them have foundation in them anymore. For some reason many regard the use of foundationless frames as an advanced beekeeping topic. Nothing could be further from the truth. As with everything in beekeeping there will be times that observed results may vary. I have had boxes get cross combed while using foundationless frames, but the vast majority of colonies take to them quite well. In my use of foundationless frames there are a couple of rules that when followed give good results, at least in the brood chamber.

wired

The first rule is that all colonies with foundationless frames must be level especially ACROSS THE FRAMES. When level, the frames will be hanging perpendicular to the ground and will be plumb. Since the bees use gravity to orient their combs it is more likely to be constructed within the plane of the frame.

The second rule is that NEW boxes of foundationless frames must to be added UNDER the already occupied boxes. That’s right. All that is needed is to place a deep box with frames at the bottom of the stack of Langstroth equipment  and the bees will work down through it just as if they were in a tree working down.

no wire

The third rule and one that I believe is missed by most using foundationless frames is….. frames must not be moved around within the boxes.  Do not swap them out, move them around, or checkerboard them. In my observations I have noted a pattern. As the colony moves down through the cavity they make specific sized cells consistently within the nest. Normally worker sized cells are placed centrally, in the middle of the colony. In my colonies this is typically the center 4-6 frames. Frames on the periphery of the colony will generally have a much higher percentage of drone sized cells.

Wedge top to foundationless

Several years ago when I began experimenting with foundationless frames they were placed between already drawn combs. At the time I was also more prone to move frames around inside boxes during inspections. It was noted that many times when foundationless frames were applied in this fashion a large percentage of the cells were drawb to drone size. This was particularly true when foundationless frames were installed ABOVE the brood chamber between already drawn frames.

When using foundationless frames the best method is to set-it and forget-it. Place an entire box of undrawn founationless frames UNDERneath a box that is already occupied with bees and comb. This is more similar to what they would be doing inside a tree. Typically a colony begins it’s life in the TOP of a cavity and then spends it’s lifespan working DOWN. As they work down they will centralize the worker sized cells in the middle of the box of frames and construct much of frames 1&2 as well as 9&10 in majority drone comb. 

If varroa are a problem within the colony, and were more prone to laying their eggs in drone cells it would stand to reason that majority of varroa activity woulf be in these FOUR frames.  This would affect a percentage of thousands of drones while allowing workers to have less pressure from the mites.  This is only a hypothesis.  There is a mechanism that Feral colonies are using to overcome mites, SHB, and all other bee maladies.  Experimenting with foundationless frames is an example of an experiment to determine if natural nest structure could be one such mechanism.

My observations have shown that bees take to foundationless frames easily when I follow these simple rules. I DO NOT use any type of starter strip, or apply wax to foundationless frames. These activities are totally unnecessary.  I feel that wiring them is also a waste of time. If the rule of applying boxes UNDERNEATH the preexisting ones is adhered to, eventually the TOP box becomes filled with capped honey and must be removed. When this comb becomes heavy with honey and begins to sag bees affix the bottom of the comb to the bottom board of the frame. I have been extracting deep foundationless frames for the last 2 years using a Maxant Chain un-capper and Radial extractor. They have extracted without failing.  

The time for Spring hive manipulations quickly approaches. Have you formulated your plan for 2017 yet?
What will you experiment with this year? If foundation-less frames are on your list feel free to ask questions.

The post Frame Rehab appeared first on LetMBee Blog.

I need a BIG WEEKEND; Kick up the dust
I need a BIG WEEKEND; If you don’t run you RUST!

Last weekend was a BIG WEEKEND around here. For the last two months I have been preparing for the coming season. Everything has been assembled now it’s time for the horrible job of painting. Painting is a facet of beekeeping I don’t particularly like. It’s right up there with frame building. The fact that I dislike both of these procedures increases my desire to do a good job when I am working on these tasks. If done correctly both frame building and painting lead to years of product use without the need for maintenance. Doing things right the first time is efficient especially when you dislike the task.  By getting this stuff out of the way I can focus on the fun part of beekeeping, CATCHING SWARMS!

This was my first opportunity to use the Wagner paint sprayer. It was a process improvement and made a much more efficient use of time. Particularly when it comes to painting handholds. I also noticed that even though the sprayer did take some time to clean up I believe that it was totally offset by how much more quickly I was able to apply product. The method I used was to apply the primer with the sprayer then used a roller to even everything out.

Last weekend was just the primer session. Everything was coated with a high quality oil based exterior primer.  I’m gonna need at least TWO more big weekends.  Two coats of paint will be applied to everything that is white in these pictures. The painting will be (as always) 100% acrylic latex exterior.  This combination has served me well over the years.  I have a lot of equipment that was painted 7 years ago that is still in service and has NOT needed a touch-up coat.

Are your traps built?
Is your painting done?
What method do you use for paint application?

The post Big Weekend appeared first on LetMBee Blog.

R.I.P. – 1517

I am beginning to realize that I have a problem.  Every time I see weathered bee equipment I have an incredible urge to build a Swarm Trap.  I am powerless to overcome it…..  I’m addicted!  I am quickly becoming the crazy-cat-lady of swarm traps!  If you haven’t experienced the joy of trapping swarms you may not understand my addiction.  There is no negative consequence to submitting to peer pressure here.  If you try it and have success you will become hope-FULLY addicted to trapping swarms.

Just like many others in the northern hemisphere, I’ve been making the rounds picking up equipment from dead-outs.  Every time I see that a colony has failed I am eyeing the equipment to see how many more years of service I might be able to expect.  When I started beekeeping I was on a shoestring budget and was buying every piece of cheap, used equipment I could find.  Looking back, the time I spent making those boxes sturdy and sound was a pretty big waste because even after retrofitting many of them just don’t have that much production life left.

Luckily the time was not a total loss because many of these boxes are still prime candidates for Swarm Traps.  Recently I retrieved the wooden-ware from 1634 and 1517.  1634 had two deep boxes that were in really good shape and will be used this year, but 1517 had a top box that has no business on a production colony.  I purchased this box back in 2012 along with 19 others from a very good old beekeeping friend.  The price was right and I’m glad I got them, but there are some that I don’t feel good about using anymore.

Even though I have over 50 traps, I just can’t stand to have hive-ware taking up space when it could be out doing something.  I did some digging and found that I had one more rickety old  inner cover and a telescoping outer cover.  I had everything I needed to get my fix of building ONE MORE TRAP!  Don’t worry…. I can quit any time.

If you have any old equipment like this it only takes about 15 minutes to complete one of these traps.  Even if you do not have entry discs, a closure device can be easily made from a canning lid or flat piece of metal.  These traps can be deployed easily and your spouse won’t be talking to you about all the old equipment you have stashed around the place.

I have seen many people building swarm traps for this season on social media.
Are you ready?

The post My name is Jason, and I’m addicted to swarm trapping appeared first on LetMBee Blog.

Truth in advertising:
Above are some deep boxes that I ordered last winter to help a friend meet their $150 minimum order for free shipping. As you can see from the picture I disagree with statement:

COMMERCIAL GRADE: Our commercial grade woodenware is manufactured from Eastern White Pine. These boxes have some tight knots and blemishes, but the workmanship and fit are still first quality.  (https://www.kelleybees.com/Shop/34/Hives-Components/Deeps-and-Supers/4600/Deep-Hive-Bodies)

NOTE crack in rabbet

In February 2016 when I experienced this same issue (See Box-Building Tips) I tried to put one box together without chiseling out the sloppy cuts.  This resulted in the rabbet joint splitting out on the box ends.  Then I had to spend more time fixing that!  After seeing it happen and knowing how many I had to do I was annoyed.  The process of clearing 3/4″ of slop from each side of every board isn’t hard, but it’s definitely and extra step and adds time to assembly.  I sent an e-mail to Kelley Beekeeping about the issue.  Nothing was requested, no refund, no free crap, just that they should know so others wouldn’t have this same issue.  There was no response, and either I issued the only complaint, or they just didn’t care.

Luckily I only had to chisel out four boxes (8-16.25″ box ends) this February instead of 50 (98-16.25″ box ends!!).  Remember….. I put the ONE together without chiseling.  Just remember there are a lot of different sources for wooden-ware out there.  I have never had an issue with other suppliers.  Actually I’ve never had a problem with any other products purchased from Kelley’s, but this has been consistent the last two years from the same supplier.

Where have you been getting your wooden-ware?
Have you happy with the quality and cut?
If so where are you getting good mill-work from?

The post Check Your Wooden-ware appeared first on LetMBee Blog.

Robbing Observations

7/7/2010 – 1003

The robbers looked different than my packages from Kelley’s Beekeeping Co. in 2010. They were closer in coloration and size to 1005, the feral colony from the barrel cutout. I’ve read that robbing bees are usually older foragers and can appear darker because of hair loss.  The difference was greater than some missing hair.  They were phenotypically different.  They were darker in color, and noticeably smaller in size. Where where they coming from?  I sat down on the ground and observed the horizon. Soon I could see the course of incoming and outgoing bees and had a bearing on the source of activity. All traffic pointed toward one corner of a woods about 1/2 mile South-East of the home apiary. After reducing entrances, I went to the woods and found the colony by sound. They were in a tree BUZZING with excitement and definitely NOT getting robbed.  It was like a raucous party celebrating the plunder of their competitors.

I believe this is playing out every Fall among the feral population. This is why the feral population somehow overcame varroa.  Better adapted colonies, out-compete those lesser suited to the niche.  It keeps the Feral Reserve lean, finding the solutions to adaptation in the environment. That’s why it’s a great source for your bees!   The Feral Reserve is hanging with the challenges of today. Those are the lines YOU want for tomorrows struggles. When less adapted colonies are “snuffed out”, cavities are vacant for the following Spring’s swarms.  The robbed resources are insurance for better adapted colonies to overwinter.  

Efficiency

Drones 10/01/2011

Bees are brutally efficient, just look at what they do to drones every fall. No beekeeper can eliminate robbing events or stop bees from purging drones in the fall. These are natural processes (provided you didn’t cause the robbing event). Even when robbing is aborted by our intervention, the chances of a colony making it through winter are decreased after being targeted. A colony being poorly suited and unable to defend itself, is a cause of robbing.  Robbing activity is a symptom of a colony in trouble.  Even if you stop a single event that colony will continue to face pressure.  It was targeted for that reasons.  You’re spending time by treating the wrong “problem” and THAT is inefficient.  To be successful in beekeeping efficiency must be maintained.

Turning my problem into a solution – Permaculture

It was not the end of the world, but this problem got the gears spinning in my head. Luckily I had recently become acquainted with Permaculture. In my reading and podcast listening I appreciated the idea of reevaluating possible resources and forming a method based plan prior to engaging in a pursuit.  Going back to Langstroth’s time, it’s been known, the best way to prevent robbing is to have strong colonies. This event taught me THREE things and led me to some conclusions that shaped my beekeeping direction.

1. My purchased bees were on the receiving end of robbing.  (They were NOT strong colonies.  That was a waste of money!)
2. The feral sourced colony was not robbed. (This was a STRONG colony, with little $ invested.  I need more bees like THAT!)
3. There were feral colonies in nearby trees robbing my poor performers. (They were STRONG and they were free in the environment.  I need more bees like THAT!)

Given these observations, it was NOT a failure of the “Hive Location” to support honey bees. This happened because the feral bees were more suited to the environment after generations of living in the trees. They had the colony strength to go take what they wanted.  These ferals are living in mono-crop zones where it is hard for bees to make a living.  Their method is brutal efficiency.  They are well suited to Eastern-Indiana’s climate and pest pressures, because if they weren’t they wouldn’t persist in the niche. The idea that bees as a naturally occurring resource, may NOT BE scarce, but prolific and well adapted had me looking at this robbing event with big plans for the future.  

If you can’t beat em.. acquire em

1005 – 07/07/2010

This one incident was a major trail-head to the path that I have followed in Beekeeping.  A robbed out colony will have brood comb in it. This is your YIELD from a robbed out hive of honeybees.  It is NOT A TOTAL LOSS.  If salvaged before being destroyed by moths, brood combs can be used to bait SwarmTraps and CatchBoxes. If there are feral robbers trouncing your hives target the robbers with traps! You will get better return on time invested trapping local bees than “protecting” import stocks from hundreds of miles away. Your goal as a beekeeper is to acquire an All-Star Lineup of colonies then let them do their thing. The last thing you want to are losers on your team. Even if you have money invested in your bees, a weak colony is a weak colony.  We know what happens to colonies like that without human intervention.  Hive-ware with weak colonies are a liability so why keep them around?  Boxes with strong colonies are an asset, that’s what you must have.

Good animal husbandry decisions lead to success

R.I.P. 1502 – Robbed out 10/17/2016

As humans we do some messed up stuff and call it compassion. Being involved in healthcare and animal husbandry has shown me that keeping an organism alive is not always a compassionate act. There is no Hospice in nature, or in Beekeeping, and I think we should keep it that way.  Beekeeping was once a profitable agricultural endeavor everywhere it was practiced. Even if you aren’t doing this for money, you will QUIT if ya don’t perceive some yield. Look at a colony being robbed out by more suited competition as a “compassionate act of nature”.  Like culling of drones in fall it seem like brutal insect behavior, but it prevents colonies from lingering into the winter months with no hope of making it through. The goods from a robbed out colony increases the chances for others to overwinter.  The robbing colonies also do us a favor removing honey and drying combs so they can be more easily stored for later trapping activities.  Robbers keep us from wasting time feeding, treating, and worrying about lines that are doomed without us anyway.  The next time you see a colony being robbed, ask yourself, “could I have seen this coming?”  Is that colony worth saving, feeding, and fretting over?  Wouldn’t beekeeping be more fun if that hive equipment was full of bees that didn’t need you anyone agonize over them?  

I know this is not typical robbing talk, but WHAT DO YOU THINK?
has this changed the way you view robbing?
If not why?
Any other questions?

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