Let's all get Knitfaced!

Time for a facelift!

2015-02-02T18:39:00.001+10:00

I decided it was time for a new look! I hope you like the new background and color scheme.

I want to get more social this year, please come join me on your favourite social network using the links to the right (>>>). You might also notice the Instagram feed just below those links. I'm new to Instagram, and I'm trying to post photos of my knitting just about every day (and the occasional pictures of my gorgeous cat, Stella).

I would love to say that I am going to post more regularly this year, but as you'd know from my track record, I'm not very good at that. Let's just say I'll post when I post, and hopefully that's more regularly than it has been in the past!

Happy knitting everyone.

Knitting in Action

2014-03-10T17:24:00.000+10:00

So once again my intentions of writing regular posts lasted all of a few weeks. Thank you to those of you who are still following me. One of the reasons I haven’t posted in a while is because I had nothing to post, not pattern wise at least.

Me & my finished shawl

This year I completed my very first Mystery Knit Along (MKAL). One night I was casually browsing through patterns on Ravelry, as you do, and stumbled upon the Follow Your Arrow MKAL by the uber talented Ysolda Teague. I signed up immediately and I’m very glad I did. Not only did I end up with an awesome shawl, the format of the pattern was exceptionally fun. Each week we were given two pattern options to choose from, with each working equally well with whatever was chosen the previous week. The mystery, the clever design and the unique format really got my designer juices flowing and has inspired me to start writing more patterns again.

So purrrty!

Lately I have been obsessed with stripes of rainbow colours paired with a neutral background (also inspired by Ysolda actually – she's one of my new idols!). Without having any specific patterns in mind, I ordered myself some lovely lovely yarn from Happy go Knitty and Spin Span Spun. I spent much of my free timing thinking about how I would work the yarn and the colours into something that was wearable but not too garish. So were born the Iridis mitts.

At some point this year I decided I wanted to make a stop motion video of one of my knitting projects. As I was going to have to stop and take a photo after each completed row, the mitts seemed like a perfect option as it was already a quick knit.

Here, I present to you, knitting in motion!

I’m still polishing the final product, but if you’re interested in these mitts, please keep an eye on my blog or on Ravelry as I hope to have the pattern released by the end of this month.

UPDATE
This pattern has been tested and is now for sale on my Ravelry store. Follow the link below if you would like to help me support my knitting habit purchase the pattern.

Hook Monster - Photo Tutorial

2013-08-26T19:39:00.001+10:00

Thank you everyone for all of your interest in my Hook Monster pattern! I've had a few requests for a video tutorial for it. This is something that I'd love to do, but I just don't have the time and resources to do it.

That said, I have been able to whip together a few photos.

1. Chain the required number of stitches

2. Turn work so that the chain is to the left of your hook (opposite if you're working left handed). Insert hook into the loop at the top

(In this picture I have already worked 2sc so it's easier to see where I'm pointing the hook)

3. Yarn over and draw through. Work as usual SC.

4. Continue in this fashion until you get to the end of the chain

5. Work a second stitch in the last loop. Turn work so that again it is to the left of your hook and work in the other loop down the chain.

I have worked the first stitch on the second side here.

7. Continue working SCs up this side of the chain until reaching the other end.

I have used 8ply acrylic with a 5.5mm yarn. You'll see the holes in the middle. When making your hook monster, you should be using a much smaller hook so the holes won't be as pronounced.

8. Slip stitch into the first stitch then just work SCs in all stitches around until hook monster case is desired length.

This is just for the set up. If you have any other questions, please don't be afraid to ask and I will always do my best to help out.

Perfect Leaves Convertible Mitts

2013-02-19T19:40:00.000+10:00

UPDATE: This pattern is now only available as a PDF on Ravelry. Please follow this link to access it

Last August I got to visit Melbourne for the first time. I was staying with a friend and we'd arranged to go camping at the Cathedral Ranges for a few days. I knew it would be extra cold, so I wanted something to keep my fingers warm but also allow me some dexterity. I had seen other convertible mitt patterns, but they were all quite plain. And so these mitts were born!

For more pictures, see my Ravelry project page
You'll see the top/left mitt has a closed thumb and the bottom/right mitt has an open thumb

Equipment:

Yarn: 8ply. I used Cleckheaton Perfect Day with Chocolate for the main colour and Chocolate Natural Marl for the contrast.

Needles: 4mm. I prefer 1 long circular (60cm+) in the magic loop or 2 shorter circulars. DPNs can also be used.

Sizing: These were designed for me, but should fit most women with averaged sized hands. The cuff circumference measures approx 16cm but will stretch to about 26cm. From the base of the thumb to the top of the mitt measures 12cms (this would be from the base of your thumb to the top of your middle finger. If you would like to know any other measurements, please leave a comment.

Approx gauge: 23sts & 32 rows to 10cm in stockinette

Tip

In the lace pattern, there is a part where you have to do a yarn over followed by a purl stitch. If you're new to lace, you might have found this a bit confusing - I know I did the first time! The trick is to wrap the yarn around the needle - bring yarn to front under the needle as you would for a regular YO, take it back over the top of the needle then bring to front under the needle - then work the purl stitch.

I made my mitts using the magic loop method, as I find this the easiest way of working in the round. Choose whichever method works best for you.

Tips for working the thumb:

(the pictures show 4 cast on stitches, that was my error)

Twenty Twelve Tip #2 - Know your fibres

2013-01-27T13:40:00.001+10:00

When I first started in yarn craft, I didn't know a lot about fibres. I based my choice of yarn on the colour, the squishyness/softness and, mostly, the price. As a result, I usually ended up buying acrylic yarn. It was cheap, easily obtainable, with lots of colours and usually felt silky smooth. I would use this yarn for all of my different projects. Now, don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with acrylic or other synthetic yarns, when tasked with the right project. I saw natural fibre yarns as more expensive and more scratchy, so I didn't usually bother with them.

It wasn't until last year that I really clued on to the fact that different fibres had different properties and you had to find the right project to take advantage of those properties, and not be hindered by it.

For example, all of my amigurumi projects are made with acrylic. Initially this was due to the colour and price factor, but I later learned that acrylic doesn't have a lot of elasticity - the yarn itself doesn't really stretch - which is what you want with amigurumi, so it keep its shape.

Mr Minion here is made of acrylic yarn. If I'd chosen a different fibre, he might not have held his shape so well. The pattern can be found here

This inelastic quality isn't so good in other projects, such as hats. In a hat, you want it to be able to stretch. Some of the stretch comes from the cast on and stitch you use - such as the ribbed brim. But, depending on the style of hat, you also want the body to stretch. When you're wearing a beanie, you don't want to feel like your head is in a vice (this is not totally reliant on the yarn, it also comes from the sizing). And with a tam or beret style hat you usually need to block it. Blocking doesn't work so well with synthetics, but it works very well with natural fibres (wool, alpaca etc).

I made this hat using an acrylic yarn. While it was the colour and weight (and price!) I wanted, it didn't work out too well for the hat. It has no stretch in the body so when I tried to block it, I didn't get the outcome I wanted. It isn't all bad, but I think I will make it again using wool. Find the pattern here

So when you're planning your next project, think about what properties it needs and choose the yarn accordingly. I've only covered a few things, but there are plenty of websites that cover that go into more depth about the different qualities of different fibres. But the best way to learn is to try! Get some different types of yarn, knit up some swatches or samples and get a feel for how each of the different fibres work.

Tips and Patterns of Twenty Twelve #1 - Cast-ons

2013-01-19T10:09:00.001+10:00

Last year was a big year for me. Lots of big life decisions and lots of crafting! I designed my own patterns for a few different items and had great plans if posting them here but never had the time. This year I will endeavor to write up and post my patterns.

In lieu of posting those patterns right now, but still wanting to get into the habit of posting more regularly, I thought I would share some of the things I learned and patterns I loved in 2012.

I think I would have to thank hat making as the trigger for developing a lot of my knitting skills. It was my unsuccessful search to find a crochet pattern for a hat that I liked that lead me to learn how to knit. Later, it was my quest to find the perfect hat to knit that lead to my discovery of Ravelry. It was also through hat making that I learnt that different techniques and different fibres don't all suit the same projects. Which brings us to to my first tip.

#1 - Not all cast-ons suit all projects
This might sound like a no-brainer to some of you, but I'm a self taught knitter. For years I knew one cast-on method (the knitted cast on) so I used that one cast-on. For everything. Gloves, hats, scarves, swatches; straight knitting or knitting in the round. I didn't really know it made that much of a difference. And the other cast-ons I'd tried seemed difficult or didn't look right to me.

Some of my favourite things to make are hats - they're quick, they're versatile and there are so many different patterns! I also have a bigger than average head. I was constantly having trouble getting the hats I made to fit. In the early days I didn't know that different cast-ons (and different fibres... but more on that in another post) could be more elastic. I would end up fiddling around with the number of cast-on stitches to get something big enough to fit my head, then fiddling around again after a couple of rows to adjust back to the original for the main pattern. But then my hats were ending up all loose around the brim. The rib stitch brim just didn't have that elasticity I saw in everyone else's hats. It took me about half a dozen hats to realise that if I used a stretchier cast on then my hats would fit much better without all of the fiddling around.

I learnt this through trial and error and also through trying to learn new things about knitting. YouTube is a great place to learn how to do new things, because you get to see people in action! Other knitting websites are also good to help you get an idea of what you're looking for before you get to YouTube. I learnt the most about the different types of cast-ons (and cast-off, increases and decreases) from KnittingHelp.com.

In the photo below are two hats I made from the same pattern. The pink & grey hat was made first, using the "fudged numbers" and knitted cast-on. The red had was made with a backwards loop cast-on. You can see how the rib stitching on the red hat is more springy, the knit stitches sit out more and the purl stitches recede more. You can also see how the brim pulls in, making it narrower than the body of the hat (even though the brim was knitted with the same number of stitches on the same sized needles). In the pink and grey had, the knit & purl stitches sit more level and the brim doesn't pull in at all, leaving it level with the body. The red hat was made with 100% wool and the other with a wool/soy fibre blend.

The hats you see above are from the pattern Fern Glade by Megan Marshall. This is the second hat pattern I knitted for myself. And I liked it so much I made another! I absolutely love the lace work and the winding 'vines'. There are only a few rows in the lace pattern so it's easy to remember after a few repeats. One little bit of advice though - place markers between each repeat! The first time I made this hat, as a beginner, I had a bit of trouble keeping track of where I was up to and often I would get to the end of the round and not have enough or have too many stitches to complete the last repeat! It's a lot easier to track down where you went wrong if you've got markers because you'll know at the end of the repeat you messed up, rather than at the end of the round. I'll do another post soon with tips on how to fix some of these mistakes without ripping back your work.

Basket Case Beanie

2012-02-27T21:12:00.000+10:00

I recently discovered the magic loop knitting method (for a great instructional video, go here). I have tried knitting in the round with double pointed needles (DPNs) but found them a bit annoying due to the lack of flexibility. One of the first things I ever knit in the round was a tea cosy by Loani Prior and she uses 2 circular needles. I liked the method but it had 2 downfalls - you had to buy two of each circular, which can get expensive; and some projects ended up with a bit of a ladder in the gap between the last stitch on one needle and first needle on the next. The magic loop method doesn't really do this.

I'm currently working on a pair of socks using this method and a number of ladies at my craft group were interested to learn how to do it. They decided they wanted to make a beanie so I was tasked to find a pattern. I wanted something simple, but not boring. I like the basket weave stitch. It adds interest, but it has a pretty easy repeat to remember. I didn't like the decrease section of those I found - they didn't incorporate the basket weave. So I decided to write my own!

This hat only has 6 repeats of the basket weave, one less than suggested.

Equipment:

Yarn: 8ply. I have used acrylic, but anything could be used.

Needles: 4mm. I prefer 1 long circular (60cm+) in the magic loop or 2 shorter circulars. DPNs can also be used.

Sizing: The small beanie will fit a head circumference around 56cm; the large beanie will fit a circumference around 61cm (depending on tension). The small beanie should fit most people comfortably. I, however, have a large head, and there is nothing worse that a hat too tight!

Pattern:

Using your preferred method, cast on 113 sts for a small hat or 121sts for a large. The rest of pattern continues the same for both sizes, there is just an extra repeat of the pattern. Split stitches between DPNs or circular needle/s. Ensure the stitches aren’t twisted.

Band

Depending on what method you are using, you may need to place some kind of marker between the after the second last cast on stitch so you know when you’ve completed a round.

Move last cast on stitch onto same needle as first stitch. Knit the first and last stitch together to join work.

Work in K2P2 rib for 10 rounds or until band is desired length.

Body

Rnds 1-4: *K4, P4. Repeat from * around.

Rnds 5-8: *P4, K4. Repeat from * around.

Repeats rounds 1-8 at least 6 more times. If you like a slouchier hat, add more rounds in multiples of eight until the desired length (don’t forget there are also 13 rounds for the decrease).

Decrease

The basket weave pattern continues through the decrease

The number in the brackets is the number of stitches remaining, small hat first, large hat second.

Rnd 1: *K4, P2, P2tog. Repeat from * around. (98/105)

Rnd 2: *K4, P3. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 3: *K2tog, K2, P3. Repeat from * around. (84/90)

Rnd 4: *K3, P3. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 5: *P3, K1, K2tog. Repeat from * around. (70/75)

Rnd 6: *P3, K2. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 7: *P2tog, P1, K2. Repeat from * around. (56/60)

Rnd 8: *P2, K2. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 9: *K2, P2tog. Repeat from * around. (42/45)

Rnd 10: *K2, P1. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 11: *K2tog, P1. Repeat from * around. (28/30)

Rnd 12: *K1, P1. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 13: *P1, K2tog. Repeat from * around. (14/15)

Leave stitches on the needle. Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Using a darning needle, pull the tail through the remaining stitches to bind off. Secure end and trim/darn in.

If you have extended the body length and prefer a beret style hat, block over a dinner plate.

Corset Fingerless Mitts

2011-11-13T13:58:00.001+10:00

I've been working on a number of projects lately - some from patterns and some of my own design. I tried to make these gloves/mitts totally from "scratch" but I was having some issues with the sizing so turned to Snail Spirals' pattern (found here) for some help.

I found the easiest way to keep track of what I was doing was to use 2 circulars and a pair of DPNs (I would have used 3 circulars, but I didn't have 3 at the time). I separated the back of the hand, the palm of the hand and the thumb gusset onto their own needles. By using this method, it also makes it easy to adapt the pattern for left and right - just move the thumb stitches to one side or the other.
I hope my explanation works for you, but if you have any troubles please write in the comments and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

For the right hand mitt, the needle order goes: back of hand, thumb, palm.
For the left hand mitt the needle order is: back of hand, palm, thumb.

Equipment:
Yarn: Once again I used Moda Vera Marvel 8ply yarn, simply because that's what I had with me at the time. Any 8ply/DK yarn should do the trick. I'm not very good at keeping track of how much yarn I used, but the finished gloves weigh 30g. Obviously you'll need more in your main colour than contrast colour.
Needles: 4mm. As mentioned above I used 2 circs and a pair of DPNs, but you could use all DPNs if you prefer. The magic loop would work, too, but you wouldn't be able to separate the thumb stitches.
Extras: yarn needle for weaving in ends and for threading the lace up. I used yarn for the lace up, but they would also look pretty with ribbon.

Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
S1 K2tog PSSO = slip stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over
YO = yarn over
KFB = knit front and back of stitch

Pattern:
The eyelets are repeated every 4 rounds and once introduced the thumb gusset increases are every 5 rounds.
Cast on 38 sts using contrasting colour. I wanted to make sure it wasn't too tight so I cast on over 2 needles. Use your preferred stretchy cast on method. Distribute stitches evenly between two circular/DP needles. Work 5 rounds of K1P1 rib.
Rnd 6: change to main colour and knit all stitches
Rnd 7: Back needle K4 YO K4 S1 K2tog PSSO K4 YO K4; K remaining stitches
Rnds 8-10: K all
Rnd 11: as for Rnd 7
Rnds 12-14: K all
Rnd 15: as for Rnd 7
Rnd 16: K all
This is where the thumb gusset starts.
Rnd 17: K all stitches on first (back of hand) needle. For RH mitt move FIRST two stitches
and for LH mitt move LAST two stitches from the second (palm) needle to third (thumb) needle. KFB both stitches. There are now 4 stitches on thumb needle. Stitches on the palm needle are knitted also.
Rnd 18: K all
Rn 19: as for Rnd 7
Rnds 20-21: K all
Rnd 22: K all stitches on back & palm needles. KFB first and last stitch on thumb needle (now 6 stitches on needle)
Rnd 23: as for Rnd 7
Rnds 24-26: K all
Rnd 27: Back needle as for Rnd 7; Palm needle knit all; Thumb needle KFB first and last stitch (8 stitches on needle)
Rnds 28-30: K all
Rnd 31: as for Rnd 7
Rnd 32: as for Rnd 22 (10 stitches on needle)
Rnds 33-34: K all
Rnd 35: as for Rnd 7
Rnd 36: K all
Rnd 37: as for Rnd 22 (12 stitches on needle)
Rnd 38: K all
Rnd 39: as for Rnd 7
Rnds 40-41: K all
Rnd 42: as for Rnd 22 (14 stitches on needle)
Rnd 43: as for Rnd 7
The thumb stitches are now going to be held.
Rnd 44: K all stitches on back needle. It gets a bit fiddly here as only 12 stitches need to be held for the thumb. The first and last stitch are moved back to the palm needle on whatever side the thumb is and two stitches are cast on in between (I used the back loop method). All stitches on palm needle are knitted.
Rnds 45-46: K all (back and palm needles only)
Rnd 47: as for Rnd 7
Rnds 48-50: K all
Rnd 51: as for Rnd 7
Rnd 52: K all
Rnds 53-57: change back to contrasting colour & work in K1P1 rib.
Cast off using the Elizabeth Zimmerman sewn bind off (see Snail Spirals' pattern linked above for details).
Now to finish the thumb.
Redistribute the held stitches over 2 needles. Join contrasting colour yarn. Work 3 rounds in K1P1 rib. Cast off using the same method as above.

Once both gloves are finished, weave in all the ends and lace her up! I used 2 strands of the contrasting yarn. I have the ends woven in on the inside of the glove, but you could also tie them in a bow at the top or bottom of the glove.

If you make these, please link to them on Ravelry or post pictures in the comments - I'd love to see the different colour combinations that you all come up with.

Yoda

2011-10-05T22:06:00.000+10:00

I have made a bit of a name for myself at work now. I work in a call centre with about 150 staff. I have people coming up to me and requesting particular crochet items. Keeping with the Star Wars theme, my latest addition is a Yoda.
I had seen another Yoda pattern out there, but I'm known for my attention to detail so decided to come up with my own.

Equipment:
Yarn: Moss/sage green, chocolate brown and fawn/beige. I used Moda Vera Marvel 8 ply.
Hook: I used a 3mm.
Extras: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, attaching eyes and adding face features; 2 goggle eyes; polyfill or your preferred stuff; dry popcorn/rice/other weighted stuffing

Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
SC2tog = Single crochet 2 stitches together
HDC2tog = Half double crochet 2 stitches together

Pattern:
Head
Rnd 1: In green 6 SC in a magic circle
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each SC (12)
Rnd 3: *SC in first stitch, 2 SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)
Rnd 4: *SC in first 2 stitches, 2 SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (24)
Rnd 5: *SC in first 3 stitches, 2 SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (30)
Rnd 6 - 10: SC all stitches around
Rnd 11: *SC in first 3 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (24)
Rnd 12: *SC in first 2 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (18)
Rnd 13: *SC in first stitch, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (12)
Start stuffing and shaping the head before the opening gets too small
Rnd 14: SC2tog around (6)
FO leaving a tail.
Finish stuffing. Using yarn needle, weave tail through stitches and pull to close opening.

Ears - Make 2
To save me writing it on each line, at the end of each row chain one and turn
Row 1: In green, chain 7. SC in 2nd chain from stitch. SC across row
Row 2: SC across row
Row 3: SC in first two stitches, SC2tog, SC last two stitches (5)
Rows 4 - 6: SC across row
Row 7: SC in first two stitches, SC2tog, SC last stitch (4)
Rows 8 - 11: SC across row
Row 12: SC in first stitch, SC2tog, SC last stitch (3)
Rows 13 - 15: SC across row
Row 16: SC first stitch, SC2tog (2)
Rows 17 - 18: SC across row
Row 19: SC2tog
FO and weave in end

Body:
The body will be worked from the base up.

Rnd 1: In green 6 SC in a magic circle

Rnd 2: 2 SC in each SC (12)

Rnd 3: *SC in first stitch, 2 SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 4: *SC in first 2 stitches, 2 SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 5: *SC in first 3 stitches, 2 SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 6: SC around in back loops only

Rnd 7: Change to brown, SC around

Rnds 8 - 20: SC around

As I worked this in spirals, the last stitch of brown (20th round) did not line up with the first brown stitch so I added 4 more brown stitches before changing to green.
Rnd 21: *SC in first 3 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (24)
Rnd 22: *SC in first 2 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (18)
Rnd 23: *SC in first stitch, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (12)
FO and leave a long tail for attaching the head
Fill the body about a quarter to a third of the way up with the popcorn/rice/weighted stuffing. This will help Yoda stand up. Fill the remaining space with polyfill/stuffing of choice.

Arms - Make 2:
Rnd 1: In green 6 SC in a magic circle
Rnds 2 - 3: SC around
Rnd 4: SC in first 3 stitches, CH 2, SC in second chain from hook and SC in stitch at base of chain, SC in last 3 stitches
Rnd 5: SC around, going behind the 'thumb' that was just made
Rnd 6: change to brown and SC around
Rnds 7 - 15: SC around.
Add or remove brown rows so that the arm reaches from the top of the brown part of the body to the base of the body.
FO and leave a tail for attaching to the body. Stuff lightly with a little polyfill.

Feet - Make 2:
Rnd 1: In green 6 SC in a magic circle
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each SC (12)
1st toe: SC in first stitch, CH 3, SC in 2nd CH from hook and next CH, sl st in base SC
2nd toe: SC in next stitch, CH 4, SC in 2nd CH from hook and next 2 CH, sl st in base SC
3rd toe: repeat as for first toe
FO and weave in ends

Assembly:

Attach one ear to each side of the head so it sits a little below half way down. To get the shape don't stitch in a straight line, stitch in a 'C' shape.
Attach feet to the base of the body so that the toes just stick out past the body.
Attach the arms so the tops line up with the top of the brown section of Yoda's body.
Using green thread, start by sewing a his nose so it sits just below the top of his ears. Just below the nose, sew across to make a mouth. Then, line up the eyes so they sit just above and close to either side of the nose. I found it helpful to refer to a picture of Yoda (just do a Google Image search) to get the proportions right. I used 8mm eyes, but i think it would have worked better if they were a little smaller.

Coat:

I have recently discovered the chainless foundation row and I love it! For a great video on how to do it, check out my FAQ page (tab up the top)
To save me writing it on each line, at the end of each row chain one and turn
Row 1: I used 34 stitches - it was enough to almost go all the way around Yoda
Rows 2 - 14: SC across
Add or remove rows as necessary so that fabric reaches Yoda's 'armpits'
Row 15: SC 6 stitches, CH 4 and skip next 4 SC, SC in next stitch, SC until last 10 stitches, CH 4 and skip next 4 SC, SC remaining 6 stitches
Row 16: SC across, SC 4 times in each 4 CH space
Rows 17 - 19: 2HDCtog twice, HDC across until last 4, 2HDCtog twice
Rows 20 - 28: HDC across
Row 29: Hold the fabric so the two ends line up. SC one stitch from each side together. Work until all stitches are joined.
FO and weave in end
Sleeves - make one on each side:
Rnd 1: SC 10 stitches around the hole created in the coat (one in each SC and one in each 'corner')
Rnd 2: *SC in first stitch, 2 SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (15)
Rnds 3 - 4: SC around
Rnd 5: *SC in first 2 stitches, 2 SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (20)
Rnd 6 - 8: SC around
Rnd 9: SC 10 stitches, Sl St next stitch
FO and weave in ends

Gently feed Yoda's arms through the sleeves on the coat and he is done!

Yoda and any Star Wars related items found on this blog remain the property of Lucasfilm Ltd

Crochet Diagonal Stripe & Colour Changes

2011-09-29T17:38:00.003+10:00

I've had some questions about how I achieved the stripe on my Hook Monster crochet case. I think the easiest way to explain it would be to draw a chart, so here it is!

As this project was crocheted in the round, so the pattern is worked from right to left each row.

In each row, the colour for the stripe is worked into the second coloured stitch from the row before. The main colour is carried between the stitches and the working yarn at the back. The second colour is left attached and is picked up again on the next round.

To ensure even colouring in your stitches, there is a trick when changing colours. I'll do my best to explain this in words, but I can feel a photo or video tutorial coming on :)
While working the last stitch in the main colour, change to the second colour before pulling the last loop through. So, for an SC stitch you would have a loop on your hook in the main colour, insert hook into the working stitch and YO with main colour and pull through. You now have two loops on the hook in the main colour. Now, yarn over with the new colour and pull through the two loops. Continue working as many coloured stitches as required and use the same method to change back to the main colour.

R2D2

2011-09-25T21:08:00.001+10:00

This is the second Star Wars character that I've made for my friend Dave. I couldn't find a pattern I liked, so I improvised my own. I think it turned out pretty well :)

Equipment:
Yarn: dark grey, dark blue, white and a small amount of red. I used Moda Vera Marvel 8ply but you can use whatever you have
Hook: I used a 3.5mm. Use the hook that gives you the closest stitches for the yarn you're using - you don't want any stuffing peaking through
Extras: yarn needle for darning in ends and embellishments; round black button, polyfill or preferred stuffing.

Abbreviations:
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet two stitches together
CH = Chain

Pattern:
Main Body
To help keep track of the colours, I'm going to colour code the text as well.
Create a magic circle with the blue
Round 1: SC 6 times into magic circle
Round 2: 2SC into each SC (12)
Round 3: Switch to grey *2SC first stitch, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 4: *in blue 2SC in first stitch, SC in next stitch, change to grey and SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (24)
Round 5: *in blue 2SC in first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, change to grey and SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (30)
Round 6: In grey *2SC first stitch, SC in next 4 stitch. Repeat from * around (36)
Round 7: In grey *2SC first stitch, SC in next 5 stitch. Repeat from * around (42)
Rounds 8 & 9: In grey SC around

This is where things get tricky! This next bit is R2's fancy marking so there will be a bit of colour changing. Hopefully my colour coded instructions will help.
Rounds 10 - 12: Grey SC 4, blue SC 4, grey SC 1, blue SC 4, (grey SC 1, blue SC 1) x4, grey SC 4, blue SC 1, (grey SC 1, blue SC 1)x4, grey SC 4, blue SC 4
If that hasn't helped, here is a chart. Chart is worked from left to right

Round 15: In grey SC around
Round 16: In blue SC around
Round 17: In grey SC around
Round 18: Attach white yarn, SC in first 4 stitches, in blue SC 8 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 19: In white SC around
Round 20: In white SC in first 4 stitches, in blue SC 8 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 21: In white SC around
Round 22: In white SC in first 4 stitches in blue SC 8 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 23: In white SC around
Round 24 to 30: In white SC 6 stitches, in blue SC 3 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 31: In white SC around
Round 32 - 34: In white SC 6 stitches, in blue SC 3 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Stuff R2's body moderately firmly at this point before beginning the decrease.
Round 35: In white in the back loop only, *SC in 5 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (36)
Round 36: *SC in 4 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (30)
Round 37: *SC in 3 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (24)
Round 38: *SC in 2 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 39: *SC in 1 stitch, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (12)
Round 40: SC around
Round 41: *2SC first stitch, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 42: *2SC first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around (24)
Add a bit of stuffing to his "foot"
Round 43: In back loops only SC all stitches (24)
Round 44: *SC in 2 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 45: *SC in 1 stitch, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (12)
Round 46: SC2tog around (6)
FO and leave a long tail. Use the tail to draw last 6 stitches together to close.

Arms - make 2
Each arm is made from 2 pieces (top and bottom) that are made as two sides (confused yet?) It'll make sense as we go along).
Top part (make 4 in total)
The first few rows are work in the round, then the rest is worked in rows

Create a magic circle with white

Round 1: SC 6 times into magic circle

Round 2: 2SC into each SC (12)

Round 3: *2SC first stitch, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)

Row 4: CH 1, turn, SC across 6 stitches

Row 5: CH 1, turn, SC across row

Row 6: CH 1, turn, *2SC in stitch, SC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * across (8)

Row 7: CH 1, turn, SC across row

Row 8: CH 1, turn, *2SC in stitch, SC in next 3 stitches. Repeat from * across (10)

FO and leave a long tail for stitching together

Bottom part ( make 4 in total)
Row 1: Chain 7 in white. Turn and SC in second chain from hook. SC across (6)
Row 2: CH 1, turn, SC across row
Row 3: CH 1, turn, SC first two stitches, SC2tog, SC next two stitches (5)
Row 4: CH 1, turn, SC across row
Row 5: CH 1, turn, SC first two stitches, SC2tog, SC next stitch (4)
Rows 6 - 8: CH 1, turn, SC across row

Row 9: Switch to blue, CH 1, turn, SC across row

Rows 10 - 21: CH 1, turn, SC across row

FO and leave a long tail for stitching together

Assembly

More photos coming soon

To assemble an arm you need 2 top bits and 2 bottom bits. Line up two top parts with wrong sides facing. Use one of the yarn tails to stitch around the edges to join. Before closing up, add some stuffing. Not too much, you just want a little.
Take two bottom parts and line up with wrong sides facing. This piece is going to overlap the top part, so it's not stitched all the way around. Before starting to stitch, lay the blue end over the top piece. Line up the blue end with the first round of the circular stitches. Start stitching from where the blue section stops overlapping. Work down the blue stitches with blue yarn, then change to white and work around the white part then change to blue and work back up the other side. Add a little stuffing. Slip the top part between the two blue flaps and stitch the flaps to the top part.

Once both arms are together you can attach them to the body. Line them up so the top is just peaking above the first row of grey and the blue markings on the white is centred between them.
Thread your darning needle with a long piece of grey yarn. Tie a knot using both ends (so 2 strands will be pulled through). Make sure the knot is big enough to not slip through the hole in the top of the arm (from the magic circle). Pass the yarn through the middle of one arm, through the body and out the other arm. Tie a knot to keep the arms tight on the body, but not squeezing it too much. Pass the yarn back through the arm, through the body and back out the other arm. I did this a couple of times, stitching over the existing knot to make it look like the screw attaching the arm. Attaching the arms using this technique also allows the legs to move back and forward.

Stitch detail
Using some grey yarn to stitch some details over the blue stitches on the front (see photo above). Use blue yarn to attach a button for his "eye" and then stitch around it for the "casing". Using a little bit of red yarn, to the bottom right of the eye make a red indicator light.

And voila! Your R2D2 is done :)

As usual, if you have any questions, leave me a comment and I'll get back to you when I can.

R2D2 and anything Star Wars related on this blog remain the property of Lucasfilm Ltd

Hook Monster

2011-09-25T10:54:00.000+10:00

As I've been getting more and more into crochet, I've gathered quite a collection of hooks. I had this lovely knitting bag that had pockets to keep needles and hooks in, but they were always falling out or slipping through the lining into the abyss. So I stopped keeping the hooks in the bag. I had planned on buying a pencil case or pencil tin to keep them in, but then decided I should crochet a little case. And that is how the hook monster was born!

It took a few tries to get the shape and the opening right. When I finished, the opening looked like a little mouth - so I decided to add some eyes. I think he looks pretty cute!

It's a pretty straight forward pattern, and it can easily be adapted to any size - a bigger version would also work well for knitting needles or even pens & pencils.

Materials
I just used some old yarn I had lying around from years ago. I bought it at a cheap shop (Crazy Clarks) and no longer have the ball bands. It feels like cotton and is about sport weight. You could use just about any yarn you have lying around.
To achieve nice, tight stitches (if they're too open, your smaller hooks may fall out) I used a 2mm hook.

Instructions
I was inspired by the construction of the hexipuffs used in the Beekeeper's Quilt by tiny owl. It's cast on in a straight line but worked in the round. This is the first time I've encountered this method, but it's apparently used to create socks from toe up.

I started with a chain of 10, but increase the number of chains to suit the width needed. Single crochet in one loop only of first chain from hook. Continue along until the end of the chain. Single crochet in end chain once more.
Now single crochet up the other side of the foundation chain in the other loop not already worked. Clear as mud? I wasn't paying a whole lot of attention to what I was doing, but ended up with 2 more stitches than double the foundation chain (so 22 stitches) and this worked out well.
Once you get back to the start, just keep going and work in the round without joining. As you can see, I also added a blue spiral stripe to mine. You can do almost whatever you want to decorate your case.
I kept going in spirals until the case was about 5/6 of the length of my hook. Again, this was a bit of an arbitrary decision - I just kept going until the length seemed "right".
To make the opening I worked until I got to one of the sides, chained 12, skipped the next 12 stitches and then rejoined and worked around again until I got to the chain (10 stitches). To get a nice opening the chain section needs to be wider than the stitched section. Next I worked 12 single crochets around (not through) the chain. Continue working in the round until the desired length is met. Once the case is long enough, starting from the side, single crochet the next two opposing stitches together (that is, one stitch from each side). Continue until the top is closed up. FO and weave in end. Attach some eyes to the front and voila!

If you have any questions about the instructions, please let me know in the comments and I'll do my best to explain :)

Super Mario World Fire Flower

2011-06-25T23:25:00.000+10:00

I have very fond memories of spending hours and hours playing Super Mario World on our Super Nintendo as a child. When I was looking for patterns for my first softie/amigurumi I was excited at all of the Mario items and characters I found (most from the amazing WolfDreamer - this woman is amazing and I have already made quite a few of her patterns). After making a few items, I wanted to add a fire flower to my set, but all I could find were patterns for the more recent versions. So I decided to add my own!

It starts out with a semi-circle to which I've added some points and a stem with leaves. A big thanks to Inner Child Crochet for their tutorial on semicircles which you can find here

This is the first time I've ever written a pattern for anyone else, so please let me know if there are any problems or if you have any questions.

Materials

8ply/DK weight yarn in orange, green and a tiny bit of black

3mm hook

yarn needle

fibre fill or other stuffing

This is what I used, but feel free to adjust to what you have at hand. I have learnt with basic amigurumi that gauge isn't super important, as long as your hook is small for your yarn so it's nice and tight.

The numbers in brackets at the end of the row indicate the number of stitches in that row.

Flowers - make 2

1. Ch 2. 3 sc in second chain from the hook.

2. Sc twice in each Sc, ch 1 turn (6)

3. Sc in next Sc, Sc twice in next Sc across ch 1 turn (9)

4. Sc in next 2 Sc, Sc twice in next Sc. Repeat to end. ch 1 turn (12)

5. Sc in next 3 Sc, Sc twice in next Sc. Repeat to end. Ch 1, turn. (15)
6. Sc in next 4 Sc, Sc twice on next Sc. Repeat to end. Ch 1, turn. (18)
7. Sc in next 5 Sc, Sc twice on next Sc. Repeat to end. Ch 1, turn. (21)

Points

Pick up and Sc 14 stitches across the straight edge.

First point

1. Ch 1, Sc 4, ch 1 turn

2. Sc2tog twice, ch 1 turn

3. Sc2tog, ch 1, FO

2nd point

1. Join yarn at next Sc. Sc 6, ch 1 turn

2. Sc2tog, Sc 2, Sc2tog, ch 1 turn

3. Sc 4

4. Continue as row 2 & 3 of first point

3rd point

Join yarn again and repeat as for first point.

Sc around whole flower.

Join two flowers and stuff

Stem

1. Sc 8 in magic circle

2. Sc each Sc

Continue for four rows

Leaves - make two

1. 5 Sc in magic circle

2. Sc twice in each Sc - 10

3-6. Sc in each St

7. Sc2tog five times

Stuff ball. FO with long tail. Weave through stitches and pull tight. Pull yarn up through other end to slightly flatten bottom.

Join two leaves evenly on either side of stem.

Stuff stem and sew to flower.

Casting On

2011-06-25T23:14:00.001+10:00

How does one start a blog? I mean, I know how to set one up, I wouldn't have gotten this far if I didn't. But what do I say? I will leave the info about me to my profile page so only those who are interested have to endure it.

Why have I started this blog? I have recently discovered an online heaven called Ravelry. I love knitting and crochet. I can't believe I've only just discovered this website in the last month or so. It is AMAZING! But more about that later.

I initially found Ravelry when looking for a pattern for a hat. Since then I have queued and completed a number of projects. My newest interest is in amigurumi. So far I have made 7 softies and that is only in the last week! I even stayed up until 4 in the morning - on a week night! - completing a Minion for my friend. This new found love has also led me to find that there occasionally aren't patterns for what I want to make. So I make my own patterns. And I want to share them. This is how the blog has come about.

I will do my best to make sure the patterns make sense, are easy to follow and that they work! I hope you enjoy them :)

Mushroom Pattern