Grant Farms is still accepting members, and if you sign up now, you’ll get 4 weeks of eggs free with your order.

CSAs are a great way to eat local and healthy. You can even sign up for a preserving share and eat local all winter long.

As always, please put Cheryl Spencer in the referral information if you decide to sign up.

Related posts:

1. CSA Preserving Share: Drying, Freezing and Canning 2010-Part 2
2. CSA Preserving Share: Drying, Freezing and Canning 2010
3. Our Grant Farms CSA Subscription

I was starting seeds for my vegetable garden last weekend, and I also decided to plant some lettuce and arugula outside in a pot.

Even though it is still getting down to freezing at night (and sometimes during the day) at this time of year, most greens will grow during the cold weather and survive the frosts/freezes. Since the sun is getting stronger, the plants will get plenty of light during the day, and the micro-climate I have chosen should help them survive the cold snaps that are sure to come.

The most important consideration for this project is the micro-climate of the area where you will put your pot.

• Micro-climate refers to the climactic conditions in various areas of your yard. Is a certain spot sunny, wet, dry, cool or windy? Are there things near it that influence its temperature such as a building that casts a shadow, or retains heat? To start seeds and successfully grow plants at this time of year, you will need to select an area that is warm and sunny.
• I chose a spot that is in the sun most of the day, and is one of the warmest parts of my yard – our flagstone patio. The stones get 6-8 hours of sun. They soak up the heat and release it at night, creating a bit of a warm spot in our yard.
• I also added to the micro-climate of my greens by choosing a large, dark-colored pot that will absorb heat during the day, and I covered the pot with a sheet of plastic.
• I chose this particular piece of plastic because it has holes in it. This allows the excess heat to escape while the sun is beating down on the pot, but also keeps the pot covered enough that it helps to keep the soil from drying out.

Pot of arugula and lettuce covered with perforated plastic

Close-up of the plastic

Close-up of arugula seedlings

I checked on the pot this weekend, and the arugula (known for being a fast-grower) was already coming up.
I expect to see lettuce seedlings by the end of this week.

When the plants get bigger, I will add some hoops to the pot, and wrap the plastic around the hoops, creating a taller mini-greenhouse. This will still trap heat and prevent drying of the soil, but will also keep the plastic off the plants’ leaves. This is important, because plastic that lays directly on plant leaves will burn the leaves in the sun.

If you would like to try this in your garden, you will need: seeds, a large pot, potting soil, a sheet of plastic large enough to cover your pot (I always use UV-stabilized plastic), and some strong wire for hoops – cut and straightened coat hangers might work well if you don’t have any hoop wire. If you don’t have plastic with holes already punched in it, you can jut cut some holes in it to allow the excess heat to escape during the day.

Best greens to grow in the spring:

• spinach
• lettuce
• arugula
• mustard
• mache

Make sure you choose varieties that indicate they will grow well in the Spring and/or Fall.

NOTE: When it is time to harvest your greens, make sure they are not frozen at the time you pick them. While the plants will rebound from a frost when they are in the ground, as soon as they are harvested, they will turn into mush if they were frozen when picked.

The varieties I planted are:

• Arugula
• Barcarole Lettuce
• Speckles Lettuce
• Green Salad Bowl Lettuce
• Red Deer Tongue Lettuce
• Lollo Rossa Lettuce

I will post updates on the progress of my pot of greens, and let you know when we’re able to harvest the first greens of the season.

For more about season-extension gardening see:

• The Four Season Harvest
• How to Grow More Vegetables

Related posts:

1. Now Is the Time to Plan Your Fall Garden
2. What’s in Season This Month (October)
3. What’s in Season This Month (November)

On Sunday, October 10, 2010 there will be a Farm-to-Table dinner at The Market at the Garden of the Gods Gourmet in Old Colorado City, at 2528 West Cucharras.

Grant Family Farms is providing the produce for the event, and the menu looks fabulous.

If you want to support local food in Colorado Springs, this is a great way to do it!

Call 471-2799 or e-mail sandy@godsgourmet.net to make a reservation.

You can get more details about the event here.

Related posts:

1. What’s in Season This Month (October)

Facebook fan Sara Dunn is the winner of the book Stocking Up.

I’d like to thank everyone who participated in the contest. You all left great comments.

Related posts:

1. Win a Copy of Stocking Up

Related posts:

1. Weekly Round-Up August 8, 2010
2. Favorite Podcasts: The Splendid Table
3. August Planning Brings Spring (and Summer) Flowers

I know that spring seems like a long way off right now, but this is the time of year to plan and place your fall bulb order.

Your bulbs will spread if you let them

• If you’ve never grown bulbs before, it is incredibly easy and very rewarding because many bulbs live for years and there are quite a few that “naturalize,” or easily spread in your garden.
• We have hundreds of grape hyacinths in our garden because they have naturalized over several years. Every spring we have huge drifts of purple flowers and the neighborhood bees love them!
• The best way to allow bulbs like grape hyachinths to naturalize is to leave the seed heads on them well into the summer until they mature.
• You should also leave the foliage on the bulbs, even after it becomes “unattractive.” This provides the bulb with nutrients for next year, and feeds bulbs that multiply underground such as daffodils, which in turn, produces more bulbs and flowers for you.

When ordering bulbs, you will need to know your growing zone, and water requirements of the bulbs. i.e. – Don’t plant water-loving bulbs in a dry area of your garden.

Plan for color and mature height of the bulbs.

• Always plant the taller bulbs in the back of a bed that is bordered by a wall or fence,
• or in the center of a bed that has no structural border.
• You can also stagger the bloom time by planting mid- and late-season bloomers in the same space, creating a spring display that blooms in succession. Just keep in mind the height and color of other flowers that will be blooming at the same time.

General color rules:

• Yellow compliments most other colors.
• So does white.
• Orange and pink don’t generally go well together.
• Brighter, loud colors do well in high-altitude gardens like ours — because even in the spring, pastel colors can get bleached out by the sun.

Many gardening books and magazines and bulb catalogs will suggest that you fertilize with a bulb-specific fertilizer (usually high in phosphate) when you plant the bulbs. I say instead of doing that, make sure you have a recent soil test and decide from there whether or not your soil needs any amending. Amending your soil willy-nilly can lead to some serious nutrient imbalances.

The basics of planting bulbs:

1. Always plant bulbs in large groups. Their color and impact is more dramatic that way.
2. Specialized digging tools such as augers and dibblers make the work go much faster. You can also dig large, shallow holes with a shovel for mass plantings.
3. Most bulb packets will have planting depths on them. But a general rule of thumb is to dig a hole that is 3 times the diameter of the bulb.
4. Plant the bulb with the root end down, and the stem end up — there is nothing more disappointing than learning that lesson the hard way. (Your bulbs may not come up at all in the spring.) Usually, the stem end is obvious – it is generally pointy. But sometimes careful observation is required to determine which end goes down.
5. Cover the hole with dirt, and then water your new bulbs.

No matter what kind of bulbs you plant, keep garden critters in mind:

• If you have a deer problem in your garden, you can still plant bulbs. Just don’t plant tulips unless you want to commit to spraying with an effective deer spray on a regular basis. Deer seem to stay away from most other bulbs in my yard. Though occasionally, they will eat my grape hyacinth foliage after the flowers have faded.
• If you have squirrels in your yard, they may be tempted to dig up freshly planted bulbs. You will either need to keep an eye on the newly planted areas, replanting the bulbs if they are dug up, or cover them up with something the squirrels can’t easily get through such as a piece of row cover or chicken wire, or even a board for a short period of time until the squirrels loose interest in the bulbs.
• If you have gophers or burrowing animals as we do at our mountain property, you may need to take drastic measures like planting your bulbs in wire baskets made from gopher mesh that are buried in the ground. — You just dig a hole, place the basket in the hole, arrange the bulbs and fill in the hole with dirt. You may also need to cover the top of the basket with a “lid” made from gopher wire to keep them from digging up the bulbs.

My favorite bulb catalogs are:

1. John Scheepers
2. High Country Gardens (Not a large selection of bulbs, but what they have are priced well).
3. VanEngelen (If you are looking for a source for bulk-orders of bulbs).
4. Brent and Becky’s Bulbs (A bit pricier than some other catalogs, but has a good selection).

I will be adding more bulbs to our garden this year: lilies, alliums, tulips, crocuses daffodils and a few others.

What bulbs are you planting this year?

Related posts:

1. Things Never Looked Better
2. Growing Garlic at 10,000′
3. 5 Things for New Gardeners to Know About Gardening in Colorado

I received my first preserving-share item last week: 21 pounds of organic green beans.

Here’s a couple of pictures of the little beauties:

Organic green beans from Grant Family Farms

Close-up of green beans

-Sorry about the quality of the photos, I had to use my phone to take them, so they’re not so great.

How I processed the green beans:

I blanched and froze all of them.

Some vegetables, like green beans, need to be cooked for a short amount of time, and then shocked in an ice-water bath to stop the cooking — this is called blanching. Blanching stops the enzyme process that makes the beans continue to mature after they are picked.

I prefer to steam my vegetables rather than boil them when freezing them because it is:

• easier — I find it easier to empty the steamer basket than to fish out a bunch of veggies from a pot of water
• quicker — takes less time to heat up the water between batches
• more energy efficient — steaming uses less water and less energy to heat the water.

It took me about 3.5 hours from start to finish. I just cut the ends off the beans and blanched 1-2 pounds at a time (in my stockpot with a steamer basket) for 4 minutes — as instructed by Stocking Up.

I also saved a couple of pounds to run through my bean frencher.

Out of 21 pounds of beans, I ended up with:

• 14 pounds frozen beans
• 2.5 pounds frenched, frozen beans
• 4.5 pounds of trimmings, which went into my compost pile

To make the frenched green beans, I used a bean frencher:

Those took a bit longer than the other beans because I had to trim off the ends and then run them through the frencher.

After blanching, I bagged them in Food Saver bags, and popped them in the freezer.

Blanched, bagged green beans

Uses for frozen green beans: Besides the ubiquitous green been casserole at Thanksgiving, (and I now only make it with the recipe from Here In America’s Test Kitchen), you can also use them in pasta dishes, casseroles, soups and stir fries.

Other ways to preserve green beans are to can them — lots of people like to make dilly beans. I didn’t have time for canning on this day, and I generally prefer them frozen, anyway.

This week, I am getting a box of spinach, and I’ll have a report on that.

Remember, it’s not too late if you want to join a CSA. Sign up for a preserving share and you’ll have local veggies to cook with throughout the winter. Or, visit your nearby farmers’ market to purchase veggies and fruits for preserving.

And, don’t forget, if you leave a comment on one of my preserving blog posts (such as this one) between now and August 31, 2010 letting me know what you’re preserving this season, you’ll be entered to win a copy of Stocking Up.

Related posts:

1. CSA Preserving Share: Drying, Freezing and Canning 2010
2. About Dry Beans
3. First CSA Preserving-Share Delivery This Week

Since we are in preserving season, I think it is the perfect time to give away a copy of one of my favorite canning/preserving books: Stocking Up. I will select one random winner.

There are several ways to enter this contest. The more you do, the greater your chances to win. Between now and August 31, 2010  you can:

• Leave a comment on any of my blog posts about preserving. Be sure to let me know what you’ll be preserving this season.
• Make a comment on the Lettuce Patch Gardens Facebook Fan Page about what you plan to preserve this season.
• Retweet on Twitter any of my preserving tweets.

I will select one random winner from one of the above entries.

Related posts:

1. Winner of Stocking Up
2. Monthly Drawing
3. CSA Preserving Share: Drying, Freezing and Canning 2010-Part 2

Just a quick note to let you know that my first preserving share is going to be delivered this week. – I’ll be getting 20 to 25 pounds of green and/or wax beans.

I’ll write a post about how I preserved them, hopefully with photos.

Related posts:

1. CSA Preserving Share: Drying, Freezing and Canning 2010
2. CSA Preserving Share: Drying, Freezing and Canning 2010-Part 2
3. Preserving Green Beans

Here are some of the best gardening, cooking and local food related blogs, stories, etc. that I’ve come across this week.

Gardening:

How and When to Water Your Garden Confused about how much to water? Want to make sure you’re not wasting water? This article will help you to give your plants the right amount of water.

If bears aren’t a problem where you live, consider growing raspberries.

Remove Garden Pests, Naturally

Cooking:

I Can Freeze That? Has a good sale or harvest left you with more food than you can use now? No need to let it go to waste. Here are instructions for freezing some foods you may have never thought of freezing.

How to Store Fresh Herbs – I too, have always found that fresh-from-the-garden herbs store very well on the kitchen counter, especially basil, which is prone to cold damage in the fridge.

Why You Should Give Pickling a Try

Local Food:

From Earth Eats Blog, Pigs Living Naturally, Meat In The City The first part of a three part series, Nicolette Hahn Niman, author of Righteous Porkchop talks about growing up in the Midwest and the treatment of pigs in industrial farming operations.

Related posts:

1. Weekly Round-Up August 27, 2010
2. CSA Preserving Share: Drying, Freezing and Canning 2010
3. CSA Preserving Share: Drying, Freezing and Canning 2010-Part 2

Talking Dirt: The Dirt Diva’s Guide Down-to-Earth Guide to Organic Gardening

Author: Annie Spiegelman

Ms. Spiegelman has a sassy writing style that may put some people off, and make others feel like they are getting advice from an old friend with a sense of humor. Here’s an example where she recounts her experiences as a newbie-gardener:

I went on plenty of impetuous shopping sprees at my local nursery and planted too many different types of plants in my yard. Instead of looking like a Sunset Magazine cover, my front yard looked like something between a second-rate parade, the last day at Burning Man, and a migraine.

This book is a brief introduction to organic gardening. It is pretty small compared to many gardening books. Even so, it touches on many different subjects. Because it tries to cover so much ground in a paper-back sized 260 pages, it is a book that will appeal only to gardeners who are very inexperienced, or new to organic gardening.

A bit too brief in places

In some places, the book’s brevity is its downfall. For example, in the chapter about edible plants, she notes that:

most vegetables need 1 inch of water per week, except for tomatoes, which are rooted much deeper and are heavy drinkers.

I was left wondering, how much water do tomatoes need? — since they’re “heavy drinkers.” But then I thought, they’re deep-rooted, so maybe their deep roots will find the water in the subsoil? An extra sentence here about how much water tomatoes need would have fixed this. And the chapter devoted to tomatoes doesn’t give details either, except to say that the soil should be wet about two feet down. — A new gardener will have no idea how to check for that, or make sure they are watering enough to get the soil wet that far down.

By the way, tomatoes generally need 1-2 inches of water per week — they need 1.5-2 inches in the heat of summer.

This is a book for new organic gardeners

The sections on growing plants: trees, flowers and vegetables felt like they were just thrown in for good measure. None of them really gives enough information for a new gardener to learn how to grow different plants, except the chapter on tomatoes. The book has a better emphasis on the basics of organic gardening such as soil preparation.

Aside from a few mis-steps like this one, the book overall is a good introduction to organic gardening that should whet the appetite of new organic gardeners.

In other areas, she goes into better detail, such as the section on “Decoding Snooty Botanical Names.” Here the reader gets a well-written snapshot of how the Linnaeus botanical-classification system works. This is especially useful to new gardeners who want to know more about the information you find on many plant tags at nurseries.

I also give her kudos for mentioning that alkaline soil (like ours in Colorado) usually need to be amended with sulfur to bring the pH into a better range — most gardening books ignore this since large portions of the country have acidic rather than alkaline soil.

Overall, I felt like the author had more to say, but not enough pages (or time?) to say it. Maybe we’ll get more in-depth book from her in the future.

Buy this book at: AbeBooks

Related posts:

1. Book Review: Dear Mr. Jefferson (Letters from a Nantucket Gardener)
2. Book Review: Cooking Green

Although it feels like fall and winter are a long way off, the months of July and August are the time to plan and start your fall garden.

If you’ve never grown a fall garden before, you’ll need to do some planning and calculating backwards from your first frost date. In Colorado Springs, it is approximately September 30.

The simplified procedure for determining when to start your seeds:

• Make a list of vegetables you think you’d like to grow for the fall and winter months. These should be cool-season vegetables. Suggestions include: spinach, lettuce, carrots, radishes, scallions, kale, mache, beets, turnips, Chinese cabbage, Swiss chard and parsley.
• Find your first frost date. In Colorado Springs, that is approximately September 30.
• For each vegetable you’d like to grow, subtract the days to maturity from your first frost date.
• Now, you know when you need to start that vegetable in order to harvest it before or near the first frost.

But you can extend your growing season with a few simple techniques:

• When your first frost date is approaching, pay attention to the weather forecast, if it is going to get near freezing, you will need to protect the plants.
• Use row-cover cloth to cover your plants at night, and retain the heat that the ground has built up – you can also use old blankets and sheets, or large sheets of plastic, but you must remove the plastic during the day or it could burn your plants.
• A better alternative to just throwing fabric over your plants is to make hoops for your vegetable beds –this keeps the row-cover or plastic (if you use it) off the leaves of the plants and creates a better protective environment since it adds more air space above the plants, and it is easier to pin down against the wind.

There are also other things that you can do that are more costly and involved:

• You can make mini-greenhouses,
• or a hoop-house,
• or a full-blown greenhouse, to protect your plants.

– All of these will protect your plants through the fall and into the winter, enabling you to grow and harvest food all year-round.

What do I use to protect my plants in the fall and winter?

• I use mini-greenhouses (or really large cold-frames) to protect my plants during the cold months.
• For the fall, if I use an inner-cover, I usually use a piece of  row-cover fabric, suspended with some hoop-wire.
• During the winter, I definitely use an inner-cover during the very cold months. Greenhouse plastic works best for this. I suspend it with some hoop-wire.
• I also have a secondary inner-cover, which is a large piece of fleece fabric that I put on top of the plastic-cover, this blocks out light though, and should only be used during the night and on very cold days.

My fall garden plan:

I will be planting:

• Bok Choy
• Carrots
• Cutting Celery
• Endive
• Green Onions
• Lettuce
• Mache
• Parsley
• Radishes
• Rutabagas
• Spinach
• Turnips

So, how do I decide when to plant each vegetable and how much do I plant?

First, you need to know that I plant all my vegetables using the hexagonal planting method of biointensive gardening, and I plant in wide rows, or beds. My beds are 4 feet wide, and 10 feet long. Conventional row-type planting won’t work for these calculations. (Here’s a brief article about the benefits of wide-row planting)

I use two very helpful charts from How to Grow More Vegetables and The Four Season Harvest. The How to Grow More Vegetables chart shows me what yield I can expect from a crop, and The Four Season Harvest gives me guidelines for when to start each vegetable.

As an example, I will walk you through the calculations for Spinach:

If you want to harvest the spinach all at once late in the fall, and do not have a cold-frame, mini-greenhouse, hoop house or greenhouse to protect it:

1. The average first frost date for Colorado Springs is September 30.
2. Spinach grown for fall use will mature in about 45 days.
3. A rough estimate for when to start seeds for spinach is August 1-August 15.

If you want to harvest the spinach through the fall and winter, you will need a large cold-frame, mini-greenhouse, hoop house or greenhouse to protect it:

1. Using The Four Season Harvest table, I see that if I have a cold-frame, mini-greenhouse or greenhouse I can start my seeds from July 1 to November 1.
2. My experience in my own garden is that I cannot start vegetables much after mid-September and have them be of a harvestable size during the winter. Conditions in your garden may vary, and allow you to start seeds later.
3. Because I don’t want to harvest my spinach all at once, I will start seeds every week between now and September 15 so that I have a staggered harvest.
4. Spinach grown for fall and winter use will mature in about 45-60 days. I always estimate a 50% increase in maturity dates because the closer we get to winter, the more the plant’s growth slows. Despite the best planning, during the depths of winter, I may have some gaps in harvesting.

Determining how much to plant:

1. The vegetable tables in How to Grow More Vegetables are a wealth of information. The entry for spinach tells me that for a 100-square foot bed of spinach, I can expect to harvest 40, 80 or 175 pounds* of spinach, depending on the fertility level of my soil. (I always use a number between the lower and middle numbers for fall planting since the plants grow much slower and eventually stop growing in the Persephone months of December-February. So, I will estimate that I can grow 60 pounds per 100 square feet.
2. How much spinach do I want to harvest? Let’s say I’d like to harvest about 1.5 pounds each week, mostly for salads. I’ll be able to start harvesting it around the beginning of October, and would like to continue to harvest until March, which equals 26 weeks. So, I need to grow about 40 pounds of spinach.
3. First, we will calculate how much we can fit in 100 square feet: I can fit 452 plants* into 100 square feet.
4. This means I will need to start 298 plants – I took the estimate of 60 pounds per 100 square feet and multiplied it by 2/3 (.66) to arrive at approximately 40 pounds. I can fit 452 plants* into 100 square feet, so I multiplied this by 2/3 as well, to get to 298. I can grow 4.52 plants per square foot, and need 298 plants. So, my spinach should take up about 66 square feet.
5. I will need to start 55 seeds each week (298/6weeks, with a few extra thrown in for good measure).

I know all of this may seem complicated, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes easier. A spreadsheet also helps, and will aid you in planning from one year to the next.

*If you are looking at the book, and think my numbers are wrong, see footnote 7 in the table, which explains that the numbers in the chart are based on a curved bed (a bed with a curved top). My beds are flat-topped (especially during fall & winter planting), so I have to reduce my numbers to factor that in.

Books featured in this post:

How to Grow More Vegetables - Buy it at: Abe Books | Barnes  & Noble

Four Season Gardening - Buy it at: Abe Books | Barnes  & Noble

Additional Books about intensive planting:

The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible – Buy it it at: Abe Books | Barnes & Noble

Square Foot Gardening - Buy it at: Abe Books | Barnes & Noble

Related posts:

1. First Greens of The Season
2. Growing Garlic at 10,000′
3. About Chives

I grilled some summer squash to have with dinner the other night, and was looking for something to do with the leftovers.

This may sound a bit boring, but it actually is quite delicious. The key is a really flavorful bread.

If you can’t find Rudi’s bread, (in Colorado Springs it is available at Sammy’s, Vitamin Cottage and Whole Foods as far as I know), you will want to use a really flavorful bread here such as a flavored focaccia. I use this method a lot to make sandwiches: melt cheese on one piece of bread, put mayo/mustard on the other and then add fillings. Here, though, I didn’t use any mustard.

Makes 2 sandwiches

1 small yellow summer squash
1 small zucchini
salt
pepper
olive oil
1 oz. cheddar cheese
mayonnaise
4 slices Rudi’s Artisan Tuscan Roasted Garlic Bread

Fire up the grill while you’re getting the rest of the ingredients ready.

Trim the ends off of the squash and zucchini and slice the long-way, about 1/4″ thick.

Coat the slices with olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Grill them on med-high heat, about 2-3 minutes per side, until they have nice grill marks.

While those are grilling, slice the cheese and divide it amongst 2 of the slices of the bread.

Place the bread under the broiler (or toaster oven) and cook until the cheese is melted. Toast the other two slices on a low setting.

Spread the mayonnaise on the slices of bread without the cheese, top with the zucchini pieces (you may have some left-over) and top with the cheese-covered bread.

Slice and enjoy.

Related posts:

1. This Week’s CSA Shares: July 28, 2010
2. What To Do With the Kohlrabi You Got in Your CSA Share
3. Garlic Salt from Garlic Scapes

Not sure what to do with those garlic scapes you got in your CSA share? Try garlic-scape garlic salt.

I heard about this recipe on the Earth Eats podcast, and decided to give it a try.

I took the suggestions from the recipe and tweaked it a little to make it more garlicky, and more precise.

You will need a kitchen scale and food processor for this recipe.

For every 10 grams of garlic scapes I had (after removing the flower-head) I used 1 ounce of kosher salt.

Grind that up in your food processor using the metal blade. Scrape it onto a baking sheet and bake it for 15 minutes at 250 degrees, then scrape it back into the food processor, and re-grind it.

Put it into an empty spice jar.

Related posts:

1. This Week’s CSA Shares: July 28, 2010
2. Growing Garlic at 10,000′
3. Recipe: Summer Squash Sandwiches

This week, my Grant Farms veggie and egg CSA-shares went missing. I showed up at the pick-up sight, and the only thing left were two fruit shares — no eggs or veggies! — Some CSA member took the wrong shares.

This wasn’t the first time this happened, two weeks ago, my fruit share was not there.

I never had this problem last year, but there are more people getting shares at my pick-up site this year. Grant Farms is clearly having problems with new CSAers who don’t know the rules and don’t know what they’re supposed to be taking for their shares.

But to their credit, the wonderfully friendly staff at Grant Farms has made things right. Last week, I received a double fruit-share to make up for the missing one, and this weekend, a Colorado Springs employee is going to bring a veggie and egg share to my house to replace this week’s missing shares! Talk about customer service.

I was never upset with Grant Farms, just the dope who took too many items. But I appreciate their effort — and want everyone else to know that this is the kind of farmer-to-customer relations you can expect from Grant Farms.

If you’re considering signing up for a CSA share, it’s not too late to get in on the fresh fruit and vegetables, not to mention eggs, poultry, bread, flowers and meat that Grant Farms offers. They have many pick-up locations in Colorado Springs.

Related posts:

1. This Week’s CSA Shares: July 28, 2010
2. Our Grant Farms CSA Subscription
3. It’s Not Too Late to Sign Up for a CSA Share