I reckon that tallest tree in the middle of frame is the one in question. Though you can't see it in this photo, maybe, I was able to just make out the torii and the path up to the shrine from the river. "Ah well, another day I shall find it," I thought. And I did! Two days later! Quick turnaround, my boy!

Number: 27
Name: The Giant Cryptomeria of Yagurasan Shrine (谷倉山神社のスギ)
Type: Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria japonica)
Height: 30m
Trunk Circumference: 5.8m
Age: unknown
Location: 栃木県鹿沼市中粕尾 (36° 33′ 15″N 139° 34′ 05″E)
Date of Original Visit: 2012-4-28
Date of Re-Visit: 2012-4-30

Though this tree is technically “along” a prefectural road, in fact, the Omoi River (思川) acts as a barrier between the two. Though the main path into the shrine faces the river, there is no bridge across it at this place. There used to be a bridge here, but not anymore. There’s apparently a bridge further downriver a short ways, beside an abandoned fishing pond, but I was unable to find it the first day I tried. That is the only way to get to Yagurasan Shrine and this tree, and on April 28th, I failed.

However, on April 30th, I was doing other trees in Kanuma, and realized I was 1) only about 10km from here and 2) that I probably wouldn’t be anywhere near this tree again for a long time. If I was going to make another attempt, it had to be this day. I had also left incredibly early, and the other trees were all incredibly simple to find and shoot, so I had some time on my hands.

I finally found the bridge over the river (it wasn’t on any of my maps, nor were the roads on the far bank). Immediately upon crossing the bridge, there was a rocky, overgrown road up into the hills. That wasn’t anywhere near the right direction, so I took the road that forked to the right, towards the shrine. Here, too, I was met with another fork, up into the hills, or down along the flood plain. I wasn’t sure which to take, and when I noticed that neither were good for car traversal, backed up to the first fork and parked there.

Coming back to the second fork, I thought, “Why, it must certainly be the upper path!” and followed up that way, all the while getting caught in spider webs and weaving among fallen rocks and wondering if I was going to meet a bear or a pit viper. Maybe a kilometer or so later, the trees on the river side thinned and I could see the prefectural road across the way. I realized that 1) I was much too high now and 2) I was much too far upriver. Stupid, stupid. I turned back, hoping I wouldn’t trip and break my camera or twist my ankle or something. I made it back to the fork uneventfully.

Turning down the fork to the lower path, I realized that this was, indeed, the right way. There were some wee fields on my right as I trudged along the slightly muddy path. I reached the abandoned fishing pond. In the distance, I could see a man sitting by the side of the path. As I approached, I bid him good morning, and asked him if he knew Yagurasan Shrine.

“Of course I do. It’s just up there, keep walking, you’ll see it,” he said. He was old, probably in his 60s. His dialect was very thick, and he mumbled, so it was difficult for me (with my poor-listening-comprehension-at-the-best-of-times) to catch everything he said though. He was leaning on a pickaxe. I thanked him and continued on my way. Sure enough, a little further along the trees gathered in, and the torii was visible. I had finally found Yagurasan Shrine.

Directly behind me are two gateway pillars that people in olden times would have passed through after crossing the no-longer-extant bridge to this shrine.

This sacred giant cryptomeria is, if you look at the base, actually two trees joined together. Of course, the union probably happened long, long ago. To view each tree individually, they’re not so remarkable, but since they are joined as in a love knot, it makes it more special.

The stairs need a good sweep.

The shrine could do with a bit of repair.

The join is very low, so it's clear that this is two trees.

The base.

Tall.

After taking the photos I wanted to and adjusting my socks (they’d somehow worked their way off my heels and bunched up at the toes during the misguided attempt at the upper path), I made my way back towards the car. The old man was still sitting, leaning on his pickaxe. I thanked him again, and commented on the tree, “It’s really a great tree, isn’t it?” The following is an account of what (I think) he said. Again, dialect, mumbling, and my often-terrible listening comprehension mean I’m working on the fragments I did understand.

The cryptomeria? Yeah, it’s a great old tree. I used to climb it, or try to, when I was a boy. All the children did. The Snake God lives at that shrine, you know. Very important to honour the Snake God, with so many pit vipers around. But that was all a long time ago. These days, no children play there. There are no children in this village at all. Only oldtimers like me left. And the oldtimers, they don’t care about the shrine or the Snake God either. You saw the state of the place, right? It’s filthy. Needs a good cleaning. I used to do it with my wife, the cleaning I mean. But I’m old, and it’s such a big job. And I’m alone now that the wife has died. I hope one day children will return and honour the Snake God and play under the shade of that cryptomeria again. Won’t be while I’m still around, though, I guess. Haa, this old guy is going on and on. You should have told me to stop! Anyway, you must be busy. I’ll let you get on your way.

I smiled, and thanked him again. I didn’t know what else to say. I trudged back to my car, feeling a little more melancholy than I had been.

Here, at the base of a mountain, lies Kasosan Shrine.

Number: 22
Name: The Giant Cryptomeria of Kasosan Shrine (加蘇山神社の杉)
Type: Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria japonica)
Height: 51m
Trunk Circumference: 6.4m
Age: 500 years
Location: 栃木県鹿沼市上久我石裂 (36° 35′ 57″N 139° 35′ 51″E)
Date of Visit: 2012-4-28

This place, Mt. Ozaku (石裂山, 879m) has been sacred ground for Shugendou (修験道) since olden times. Kasosan Shrine is at its eastern foot.

According to shrine history, this shrine was founded in the Jingo-Keiun Era (神護景雲, 767~770 CE). At the time, what is now the inner sanctuary was actually the main shrine, but because it’s up a craggy and precipitous hill, in Bunka 11 (文化11年, 1814 CE), a so-called lower shrine was built at the current location, but it was only a subsidiary shrine to the main one higher up the mountain. In Meiji 44 (明治44年, 1911), a new main shrine was constructed at the current location, and the old shrine higher up the mountain became the inner sanctuary. This is how things are now. Furthermore, at the summit there is an auxiliary shrine to Tsukuyomi-no-mikoto (月読命), Tsukiyama Shrine (月山神社).

How many people have climbed these stairs?

From the village below, you can drive right to the base of the stone steps of Kasosan Shrine.

On the shrine grounds, there are several giant cryptomeria, and it makes quite a spectacle. Among them, three are designated Natural Monuments.

You can clearly see how two trees have merged.

First, there is this tree at the bottom of the steps. It’s two trees that have grown together at the base, so the base is exceedingly large. In the main shrine there is another double-trunked cryptomeria standing at the entrance to the path to the inner sanctuary. I overheard another visitor saying that his friend had told him it was a power spot, so he’d come to see it as well.

I wonder how many of the young trees in this forest will grow old like this. I wonder what the probability is that they’ll live as long as this one? One in ten thousand? One in one hundred thousand?

I found your new desktop wallpaper, by the way.

To view these trees and their bark and the mosses growing on them, one can see the trials and tribulations they have suffered over the centuries. But they never complain. They accept anything.

Standing there, confronting the tree, I feel a little embarrassed that I am not as stoic as it is. I suppose I shall have to return here one day.

The signs at the bottom say "Beware of bears" on the right and "beware of mamushi" on the left. Since "mushi" is Japanese for insect, I thought, as one does, "I wonder what sort of insect a mamushi is, that there needs to be a warning." In fact, mamushi is the Japanese Pit Viper, the most abundant snake in Japan, and also the most venomous. Oh my!

There it stands.

Number: 23
Name: The Giant Cryptomeria of Ooashi Shrine (大葦神社のスギ)
Type: Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria japonica)
Height: 26m
Trunk Circumference: 5.6m
Age: unknown
Location: 栃木県鹿沼市下大久保 (36° 37′ 12″N 139° 38′ 32″E)
Date of Visit: 2012-4-28

That's it on the right.

On the left bank of the Ooashi River (大芦川), along Prefectural Road 14 (The Kanuma-Nikko Line), one finds Ooashi Shrine.

Long ago, this shrine was located in Ashinuma (芦沼), it is said, but was moved to this location in Shimoookubo in the Jishou (治承) Era (1177-84 CE). Where, precisely, this Ashinuma is, I’m not sure. I can’t find any Ashinuma in Kanuma, only in Utsunomiya and Mashiko, so I’m not sure which one. Both are 40+ km from here though.

It's shady back here.

This sacred tree is on the right side of the main shrine. It’s a single-trunked cryptomeria.

It seems as though it has lost several large branches, but the thick growth suggests that this tree still has great vigour.

You can see where it has lost a branch.

Use the N2 mines.

In unrelated news, the Giant Trees of Tochigi returns this Friday with all new posts through (at least) July 6th, featuring, mostly, Trees of Kanuma. I hope you’ll check them out~

It’s been three long months since a new tree post has appeared (the recent post was a revisit, and doesn’t really count!), but now at long last the wait is over.

Starting Friday, May the Fourth (be with you), The Giant Trees of Tochigi is back with all new posts and very old trees for (at least) the next five weeks (and longer if I keep going out regularly).

If you’ve been away, do come back! If you know people who have given up hope of a return, tell them!

Let’s enjoying trees together with me.