Life, Love, and Outside

Up & Coming

2011-08-27T23:21:00.000-07:00

I've got two last outdoor treks planned before I leave the UK

1) Dorset for some sun, surf, and this picaresque hike.

2) Then a full helping of this hike in Scotland with a scoop of Ben Nevis as dessert

Great Britain, you've been fab.

Fiordland National Park, NZ

2011-08-26T03:52:00.000-07:00

Lake Gunn Campsite

Location: Milford Road, adjacent to SH 94, 78 km north of Te Anau.
Fee: $5.10 adult/night (no booking)
Accessible for smaller vehicles (we drove up in a sleeper van and got in just fine)
Standard Campsite: 10 tent sites, toilets (portable if I remember correctly), barbacue, picnic tables, only stream water available, no showers

This basic campsite is situated along the Te Anau - Milford Highway in Fiordland National Park on the edge of Lake Gunn. Melita Peak and Consolation Peak form a beautiful backdrop to the lake. We parked our sleeper van here after driving and hiking through Milford Sound earlier in the day. The shore was quiet and serene with just a few other campers about - gorgeous.

Milford sound is absolutely majestic. The Tasmanian sea is the mouth of this fjord on New Zealand's South Island. The sound was deemed the world's top travel destination in the 2008 Travelers' Choice Destinations Awards and is New Zealand's most famous tourist destination. Rudyard Kipling has once called it the eighth Wonder of the World and it's easy to see why. Clouds sometimes hang low shrouding the mountains in gray wisps as they rise mysteriously out of the surrounding waters. Take a cruise around the lake and you'll see waterfall after waterfall cascading down the peaks. With its unusually high rainfall, Milford Sound is the wettest inhabited area in New Zealand and one of the wettest in the world. The area wasn't discovered by Europeans until 1812 since the entryway from the ocean is so narrow. After its discovery it was named Milford Haven after the Welsh explorer's homeland.The Milford Track is a four day hike described by Kipling as "the finest walk in the world." It is a very well-traveled path by now and booking is required before hiking it.

Milford Sound, Fiordland National Park

Deleware Seashore State Park

2011-08-26T03:02:00.000-07:00

You know how you will sometimes research a place and after reading several bad reviews think, "Aw, people are just so harsh. It can't really be that bad!"

Lesson learned.

I took a group of friends beach camping one summer in Delaware. My park of choice (Cape Henlopen) had sadly been discovered by the rest of the world so it was completely booked. In my frantic search to find another nearby seashore beach I came across Delaware Seashore State Park. Now, in my past experiences State parks have usually proven to be quite nice and well cared for. The reviews I read mentioned nearby construction and cramped conditions, but I wrote it all off to pansy campers complaining too much and I naively assumed all construction would be halted since it was the height of beach season.

Nope.

There is still ongoing construction at the Indian River Bridge and their website advises visitors to pay close attention to changing traffic patters. The campground itself was very cramped. The tent section had minimal space, little privacy and a scenic backdrop of construction vehicles. How rustic.

There are 146 family sites with water, electric, and sewer hookup, and 37 tent-only sites with no hookups. Electric, water, sewer and showers available April 1 through November 30 and electric and sewer only available year-round. Showers, laundry, ice and soda vending machines are all nearby. It's situated on the Indian River Inlet which is very scenic and made up for the campground a little.

One big issue: NO CAMPFIRES ARE ALLOWED. I'm sure it said this somewhere on the website when we were booking, but it certainly wasn't too obvious. We went into panic mode when we arrived and found it printed boldly on the campground's pamphlet since all we had for dinner was a cooler full of raw hotdogs and hamburgers. They allow BBQs if they are contained, so we bought a cheap one from a nearby WalMart. We may have pushed the envelope a bit far when we tried building a campfire within the BBQ...

Park Ranger: "Hey, there are actually no fires allowed in this park unless they are contained within a BBQ."

My brother: "Oh, but there's a BBQ under there."

Park Ranger skeptically examines the now-minor-bonfire

Park Ranger: "Yeeeeeah, um, I think this should still be put out."

There is a designated area for a group fire at the far end of the campground. The ocean is a short ways on the other side of the bridge and as long as you're facing the water you can't see the cranes and bulldozers behind you.

Pros: Close to the beach
Cons: Construction, cramped quarters, no campfires
Tips: Reserve earlier and camp at Cape Henlopen
Rating: 1/5

Pohick Bay Regional Park

2011-08-26T02:17:00.000-07:00

I have only been here once to put in my newly bought kayak with a friend. It's the perfect park for boating as it's mostly water oriented. You can rent canoes, kayaks, paddle boats and jon boats on weekends (March-October). It also offers group camping, hiking, fishing, picnic areas, miniature golf, large play area for children, and swimming (it boasts one of the biggest outdoor freeform pools on the east coast). The hiking trails total 8.5 miles and there are specific bluebird trails that detour to bluebird boxes so you can check on the park's conservation efforts The waterpark is open May-September.

Official Website

Pros: Perfect for boating. Lots of water routes. Close to DC.
Cons: Some visitors have complained about the cleanliness of the cabins.
Tips: Get a kayak. You'll thank me.
Rating: 4/5

Fountainhead Regional Park, VA

2011-08-24T09:31:00.000-07:00

This park lies along a tributary of the Potomac: the Occoquan Reservoir. The marina and parking opens at 6am and there is a bait/tackle shop nearby as well as boat rentals (kayak, canoe, or rowboat). Fishing is allowed with a license (though I've heard it's not superb). Fountainhead also boast an 8 mile mountain biking trail (you can call 703-250-9124 anytime fore trail conditions). Picnic areas are located near the marina and along some trails. The hiking here is beautiful - sometimes hilly, but not difficult unless you decide to portage your kayak by climbing over the dam (not recommended and most likely illegal). The 17.5 mile Bull Run Occoquan Trail begins in Fountainhead and winds through Hemlock Regional Park before ending in Bull Run Regional Park so there's loads to explore.

This is my favorite spot for kayaking due to its size and its proximity to the DC area. It's a quiet and beautiful area with gorgeous homes along the water.

Website

Driving directions (it's good to have several options since 95-South is usually a beast to drive on)

Pros: Easy access off of 95-South (if traffic is actually moving), absolutely beautiful
Cons: Crew teams row along the Occoquan so keep your ears and eyes open, they're fast! Bathrooms are often closed in off season.
Tips: Don't portage your boat over the dam
Rating: 4/5

Westmoreland State Park, VA

2011-08-24T08:45:00.000-07:00

Westmoreland State Park takes up 1,311 acres along the Potomac River in Virginia. It boasts 133 camping sites (electric and standard) and several cabins. The waterfront is perfect for fishing and picnics and gets quite crowded in the summer. There are no designated swimming areas in the Potomac itself but the park has a pool available in the summer. Bald eagles are known for nesting within the park and many campers scour the riverside looking for elusive sharks teeth.There are several small hiking trails (the longest just under 2.5 miles) that are ideal for children. I've camped here once for a quick weekend get-away and found the sites well-wooded though a little close together. Since the hiking trails are minimal and swimming isn't technically allowed I would recommend bringing a canoe or kayak as it's proximity to the Potomac is perfect for boating. Paddleboats can be rented Memorial Day through Labor Day and powerboats are permitted as well. Next time I go I'm bringing my kayak for sure.

Pros: Beautiful scenery and wildlife. Right along the Potomac River.
Cons: No swimming in the Potomac. Short hiking trails.
Tips: Bring your boat.
Rating: 4/5

Website

Owens Creek, MD

2011-08-23T06:57:00.000-07:00

Owens Creek campground is part of Catoctin Mountain Park and usually opens early May. I've camped here once just to get away from DC and be outside. It served the purpose quite well. The campsites were well wooded and it was fall so there were beautiful leaves everywhere. Aside from nearly being impaled by a large falling piece of dead tree while sleeping in the early morning, it was a pleasant and uneventful day and a half of camping goodness.

Campground information

Major Pros: It is quiet and pretty remote considering its proximity to route 15. A great weekend or one night get-away.
Major Cons: If you arrive after dark its really hard to find wood for a fire, but this is true of all campgrounds.
Tips: Arrive before dark. Avoid falling tree debris.
Rating: 3

Sneak Peak

2011-08-18T15:39:00.000-07:00

Some recent Scotland hikes:

Part of the West Highland Way near Loch Lomond

Arthur's Seat overlooking Edinburgh

More to come!

She is Beautiful

2011-08-07T04:58:00.000-07:00

My love for outdoor activity is coupled with my passion for environmental justice. That being said, here is a powerful reminder of our responsibility and some thoughts shaped by my own beliefs regarding mankind's relationship with our beautiful world:

C.K. Chesterton's view of our relationship with earth has been helpful to me,

"Nature is not our mother: Nature is our sister. We can be proud of her beauty, since we have the same father; but she has no authority over us; we have to admire, but not to imitate. This gives to the typically Christian pleasure in this earth a strange touch of lightness that is almost frivolity... To St. Francis, Nature is a sister, and even a younger sister: a little, dancing sister, to be laughed at as well as loved” [Orthodoxy].

So is this love? Are we trampling out the dancing of our younger sister? Are we neglecting and abusing the fragile ward that has been placed in our care? Sadly, I think the answer is yes. Creation was meant to glorify God and I firmly believe that through exploitation and irresponsible consumption of its resources we are coming into direct opposition with its created purpose. We are tainting creation's praises to our Almighty Father. How sad to think we have damaged something so precious - something we were so lovingly entrusted with. "The Lord God took the man and put him in the garden of Eden to work it and keep it" [Gen 2:15].

And while I have mixed feelings on the statement that "she is worth dying for" I have complete respect for those that have sacrificed so much to redeem our world. Exploitation of our earth often goes hand in hand with exploitation of the most needy among us. The rubber industry that began stripping the Amazon of its seemingly endless resources in the early 1900s also led to the torture, enslavement, and overall abuse of the nearby tribes. Dams constructed to outsource electricity to the urban wealthy often divert vital rivers which the indigenous poor depend on leading to the flooding of villages and farmland as well as drought and famine downstream. It is far too easy as Christians to poo-poo environmental issues as political propaganda or liberal ideology, but look closer and you will see the widows, orphans, and poor that Christ charged us to care for at the center of these issues. We are tied to our world, what affects our ecosystem affects us and destruction of creation often disproportionately impacts the neediest among us. Oppression, famine, abuse, neglect, greed, gluttony - these are not synonymous with the kingdom that I have been told to expect and to work for. I believe in a kingdom where the lion will lie down with the lamb, where swords are turned into plowshares, and where creation will no longer groan awaiting freedom from its bondage. And I believe that is worth dying for.

"Another world is not only possible, she is on her way. On a quiet day, I can hear her breathing." [novelist Arundhati Roy]

Snowdonia Trip

2011-08-03T01:29:00.000-07:00

Here's the brief run-down of my recent trip to Snowdonia National Park in Northern Wales. I'll include more details later about routes, campgrounds, etc. Enjoy!

We arrived in Conwy and toured around the town and castle for a while before heading to a pub outside the city for some lunch. We must have lounged there for a good 2 hours talking to locals and staring at our newly purchased Snowdonia map before we decided to trek over Conwy mountain to get to some ambiguous campsite the map had shown. We hiked said mountain and were awarded with stunning views from the top. Our decent was was a bit spontaneous (and included wild blackberries) and we stumbled out of some evergreens to find that we were practically on top of a campsite with hot showers. Sweet as. Ran up and down the nearby beach at sundown and laughed at our drunken neighbors before calling it a night.

Caught the bus into Llanberis the following day. Llanberis is a dream: more outdoor stores than restaurants, sweet cafés, and climbers/bikers/hikers everywhere. We were pretty stoked. After buying some stove fuel and people watching (we definitely were not oggling over climbers) we got some hiking advice from a friendly store clerk and hiked down the road towards our next campsite. Explored a castle and sketchy cave on the way and got to catch the tail end of the Snowdon Mountain Run after playing around a stream for hours. The second campsite was even more glorious, nestled in a farm pasture in a mountainous basin. Beauty all around.

Caught the bus to Pen-Y-Pas the next day to hike the Snowdon Horseshoe. Conditions were perfect, which is rare. We met a lady later in the trip that told us out of summitting Snowdon 15 times she had only seen the view from the top once. We got a cloudless day with perfect blue skies. We hiked Crib Goch which is easily the most bad ass thing I've ever done or ever will do. Pardon my french but I think I deserve the term after straddling, shimmying, and scrambling over a sharp mountain ridge with 1,000 foot drops down either side. It was a bit ridiculous and completely surreal. Maybe the fact that it was so surreal kept me from contemplating my immanent death, but I made it through with only a few blisters, bruises, and a sunburnt nose. We summitted Snowdon with the rest of the world (there is a train and café at the top). I heard a fellow hiker mention that there should be a fenced-off area for Crib Gochers - I agree. We were going to finish on the "easy route" but got a bit off track and finished off with the twin peaks instead - a walk in the park compared to Crib. We caught the last bus back to the campsite and tried celebrating at the local pub but I fell asleep after my steak & ale pie and single pint so we called it a night.

The next day Theresa wanted to climb more mountains. Instead we tramped into Llanberis again and passed out on bean-bag chairs after a full Welsh breakfast at Pete's Eats (I highly recommend their black pudding and the turquoise bean bag).
We woke up and ate some more (I also highly recommend their chocolate cake) and consulted the map. Once we had pinpointed "a green looking area with waterfalls" we jumped on a bus bound to Betws-y-Coed and camped (slightly illegally) at an RV park that night. All legalities were solved in the morning. Not gonna lie - sometimes it pays to be an innocent looking girl. Don't know if it's a fair trade off with being able to pee standing up, but ya can't have it all.

Hiked up to Swallow Falls in Betws-y-Coed. Ate more wild blackberries. Ruined some scenic photos for tourists (how were we to know our sunbathing was blocking the view? It's not like we were lying directly on top of the waterfall... oh wait) Ate more sardines and paté (one of the many benefits of hiking in areas with no carnivorous predators) and that was that.

On to Ogwen Valley -my favorite campground by far. We set up tent on a hill away from the other travelers and it felt like we had the place to ourselves. We also had a fire right, which was convenient considering our fuel depleted halfway through our noodle dish. Weather was gorgeous when we showed up but quickly deteriorated the next day. We planned to hike all the way to Tryfan via Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach but after picking our way carefully up the first peak (we could hardly see cairn to cairn in the fog and the ascent was all scree) we couldn't see any sign of the trail at the top. We sat cold, wet and huddled in a small outcropping rationing a pasty while contemplating life, love, and lousy compasses. We decided to turn back, and though feeling glum and defeated we soon met other hikers that had similar difficulties in the fog. Made some friends on the descent and found our way back to the warden station were we loaded up on hot chocolate. Spent the rest of the day trying to warm up in our sleeping bags. Thankfully the sun came out enough to partially dry some of our clothes before bed.

Back to Conwy the next morning. Ate another Welsh breakfast and hiked along the seashore. Dinner of fresh mussels and wine near the harbor. Serenaded by the Once soundtrack from a nearby sailboat (owned by a juggler with dreadlocks- we should have been friends).

Wales, Wales, Wales. Someday we'll meet again methinks.

Change of Pace

2011-03-16T16:10:00.000-07:00

Taking a "break" from my rural walks and checking out some international urban parks. I'll be craving the great outdoors again soon, but for now I'm enjoying this change of pace.

Kensington Gardens

Hampstead Heath

St. James Park

Precipice Trail -Acadia National Park, ME

2011-02-02T22:19:00.000-08:00

"CAUTION: The Precipice is maintained as a non-technical climbing route, not a hiking trail. Attempt this route only if you are physically fit, wearing proper footwear, and have experience in climbing near exposed cliffs and heights. Allow 3 hours for a round-trip climb, Avoid this route during inclement weather or darkness. Stay on trail and do not throw or dislodge rocks onto hikers below. Persons have received serious injuries and others have died on this mountain side!"

So reads the sign which someone deemed appropriate to place at the summit of Precipice Trail in Acadia National Park, though in my opinion it would be much more appropriate if it were at the parking lot entrance. People travel from all over to scramble up this 1,000 foot nearly vertical trail. The caution sign isn't joking when it states this is not a hiking trail. It consists mostly of rock scrambling, climbing up rungs and ladders, and occasionally shimmying across narrow exposed ledges. Adventurers ascend about 930 feet in only 0.8 mile. It is imperative to check the weather forecast before embarking on this adventure. I strongly advise bringing plenty of water and snacks and not climbing alone. Hardy footwear is essential - you will regret sandals immediately. I went with a group of four and we spotted each other at more technical points which ended up saving me from a potentially nasty fall at one point.

The entrance to the trail is at the Precipice parking area on the Park Loop Road. All trails within Acadia are very clearly marked and a big plus is the free buses that pick up and drop off all around Mount Desert Island. This was particularly convenient to us since we hiked up Precipice and ended up taking the easier route (Beehive Trail) down due to exhaustion. Unfortunately the easier route put us down on the opposite side of the mountain but the handy-dandy Acadia bus system came to the rescue. Pick up a bus service flier at any of the ranger stations.

Be sure to check here for trail closures before planning your visit. Peregrine falcons nest around this trail and conservation efforts involve closing certain areas for their safety.

A few photos from the trail

Though this trail is a beast to hike, the pay off is a breathtaking panoramic view of Mount Desert Island that is well worth the effort.

Other personal reviews

More Acadia Hikes

Acadia Trails Map

White Oak Canyon, VA

2011-01-27T19:49:00.000-08:00

A cold December hike in Shenandoah National Park complete with frozen waterfalls!

Our route: White Oak Canyon/Cedar Run loop
Map: White Oak Canyon Area
Park website: Shenandoah National Park
Great trail info: Compass Points

Cerro Chato and La Fortuna, Costa Rica

2010-11-25T22:32:00.000-08:00

Cerro Chato

Dormant volcano near the district of La Fortuna (Costa Rica, South America)
Terrain: 3,742 ft steeply uphill with scrambling required
Duration: 4-6 hours (depending on torrential downpour)
Price: $10 (pay at the Green Lagoon)

Hiking Cerro Chato is not for the faint of heart nor the easily winded. It is an exhausting uphill climb often involving hands and feet (think a literal jungle gym). If you start in the nearby district of La Fortuna and your budget excludes unnecessary taxis you tack on an additional uphill climb to get to the ranger station before even beginning the hike. Bring lots of water and some trail bars. I guarantee you will get hungry, thirsty, and very tired before making it back downhill. Trail maps are available at the ranger station at the entrance to the park, but they sell tickets to the waterfalls alone. For the Cerro Chato trail entrance walk up the steep driveway that you first passed on your right on the way to the ranger station. The Green Lagoon Lodge is at the top of the driveway which is where you will sign-in and pay the entrance fee. Most hotels and tour companies will convince you that you need a tour package or guide, but honestly there is only one way up the mountain and the path is rather obvious thanks to frequently dispersed signs.

Though this strenuous hike is rewarded with the potential view of crater (1,600 ft wide and filled with a lagoon) you can only see said-lagoon on clear days which are few and far between around La Fortuna (thanks to the nearby cloud forest, Monteverde). But hey, if it weren't for the rain it wouldn't be a rainforest, so quit complaining! For best views get started as early in the day as possible and visit during dry season (December-April). It rained steadily for the entire 6 hour hike when we visited in November and the lagoon was hidden under a dense blanket of fog. Once at the top of the dormant volcano there seem to be several trails leading down to the lagoon which are incredibly steep. Just remember, when hiking in a crater what goes down must come up - don't go descending any hill that is too difficult to climb back up. For some more info here is another helpful article about the Cerro Chato hike with some great photos.

Though we reached the trailhead to Cerro Chato via La Fortuna, you can access another trail up the dormant volcano through Arenal Volcano National Park near the Arenal Observatory Lodge. Check these reviews for details about the other trail.

Waterfalls

Terrain: 1/4 mile steep downhill (with stairs)
Duration: 35-50 minutes
Price: $10 (pay at the ranger station)

The smaller waterfall in La Fortuna

The La Fortuna Waterfall
Height: 150 feet

More information from Arenal.net

Gauley River, WV

2010-10-11T19:50:00.001-07:00

[review to come]

Surfing on the Upper Gauley

Thank you River Expeditions for the experience!

Everything in Time

2010-09-22T12:50:00.000-07:00

Meet Moni

2010-09-18T14:35:00.001-07:00

When I was about 4 or 5 years olds my parents would take me and my little brother to the Shenandoah each autumn to look for monarch butterfly caterpillars amongst the milkweed plants. I have detailed memories of watching beautiful orange and black butterflies emerge from their green, shiny chrysalis (or chrysalides, as WikiAnswers tells me) and flying about our little condo, much to the consternation of our half-feral cat, Goofy. I went for a walk down by our creek the other day and found both milkweed and caterpillars, one of whom had the luck/misfortune to come home with me. He was named "Moni" by a pair of curious toddler twins and their parents who enjoyed meeting him on our way home.

I give you, Moni.

"How many mouths Nature has to fill, how many neighbors we have, how little we know about them, and how seldom we get in each other's way!"
- John Muir (from My Fist Summer in the Sierra)

Cape Cod, Massachusetts

2010-07-11T22:58:00.001-07:00

[review to come]

Wiley Pond, Eastham

Great Island, Wellfleet

Salt Marsh

Kettletown State Park, Connecticut

2010-07-11T22:43:00.000-07:00

Click for Campground Map

Kettletown State Park is situated along the Housatonic River and Lake Zoar in Connecticut and is open May-September. It has 68 camping sites (open or wooded) as well as youth group camping. My family camped here for two nights on our way up to Cape Cod and we enjoyed our stay. It has a fun family atmosphere and seems to appeal to families with young children. As of 2011 possession of alcoholic beverages is prohibited June through September so consider yourself warned.

The campground consists of 605 acres and offers camping, swimming, fresh water fishing, picnicking and hiking (click for pdf hiking map). The trails are fairly short and easy, though quite pretty - ideal for children. There are cool pools of water and mini-waterfalls back along some of the wooded trails.

Pros: Pretty and wooded. Good for kids.
Cons: Short hiking trails.
Tips: If you're not camping with children this might not be ideal for you.
Rating: 3/5

Official website

Matthews Arm, Shenandoah National Park, VA

2010-04-30T16:37:00.000-07:00

Mile 22.1 of Shenandoah National Park

I have camped here 4-5 times now and I thoroughly agree with Bill Bryson’s feelings in his book “A Walk in the Woods” when he stated, “Shenandoah National Park is lovely. It is possibly the most wonderful national park I have ever been in, and, considering the impossible and conflicting demands put on it, it is extremely well run. Almost at once it became my favorite part of the Appalachian Trail.” (By the way, Bryson’s book is definitely worth a read if you have any inkling towards hiking/camping or have the slightest appreciation for humor). Matthews Arm is one of the three main campgrounds in the park. Big Meadows is the biggest and most popular (it has showers), but because of this it often fills up the quickest on weekends with lovely weather. Loft Mountain is too far a journey south through the park for my humble little Corolla. Therefore, Matthews Arm has been the campground of choice for most of my Shenandoah trips. It is well situated for anyone wanting to do a good deal of hiking. Some of the hikes are a bit of a drive from the grounds, but there are a few that can be accessed by foot from the site. Like I mentioned, Matthews Arm has no showers, but there is access to potable water and toilets/sinks (the real flushing kind too, what a treat!).
According to reports, “Shenandoah is said to have the highest density of black bears anywhere in the world – slightly over one per square mile” and I believe it. I’ve seen at least one black bear on each of my visits (except for the abbreviated trip to Big Meadows in early March) and I once saw three during a two day trip. Needless to say, don’t ignore the bear-factor in your planning. All food needs to be properly stored in a bear proof container, disposed of in a labeled campground dumpster, or you can take the lazy approach and shove it in your car during the night (I have often employed this tactic with dirty dishes after dark). The end result of this last tactic is usually a car smelling of pancakes and chili for the ride home, but at least the bears weren’t catching whiffs of this delightful smorgasbord downwind while you slept unawares.
A word of encouragement for the ursaphobic (I made that up): In my 4-5 camps at this park I have had no up-close encounters with bears . I have headed all park warnings and kept all food, dirty dishes, and food stained clothing in the car at night and that seems to have done the trick. I’m not promising you won’t have an encounter yourself, I’m just saying there are things you can do to avoid said-face-off. In fact I’ve had more instances at Hickory Run than here – but then again I camp at Hickory run far more frequently . For more bear-avoiding tips check this out: Backpackers.com.

Major Pros: AMAZING hikes nearby. This is the closest campground to Overall Run (the largest waterfall in the park). Shenandoah is beautiful and there are plenty of scenic outlooks of the mountains and valleys.
Major Cons: If you’re into showering daily, too bad. And watch out for bears and snakes.
Tips: 1) Baby wipes work just as well as showers. 2) When hiking in possible “bear territory” make loud noises occasionally: talk loud, clap, sing, etc. A surprised bear is an angry bear, so let them know you’re coming, unless of course they’re hungry and waiting…
Rating: 5/5

Big Meadows Campground (Shenandoah National Park, VA)

2010-04-27T20:37:00.000-07:00

March 26 : Officially the first day of camping season, at least in Shenandoah National Park, VA.

Big Meadows, their largest campground, is the earliest one to open its sites to campers. Lewis Mountain opens a bit later in April while Matthews Arm and Loft Mountain open late May. Needless to say, we were going to be there on the 26th come rain or shine. Unfortunately it ended up being more rain than shine; rain, wind, and below freezing temperatures to be precise. Apparently Mother Nature did not receive the memo about opening day, or maybe she chose to ignore it out of spite towards the average camper's lust for gas-guzzling, emission-belching, motor-vehicles. Whatever her motives were, the results were far from perfect. Friday made for a nice drive with sunny moments and highs in the 50s. Friday night temps dropped fast - warm around the fire, but our breath was visible even with 4 people inside our tent. Low of 29 degrees with rain starting around 5am - it was a very chilly night. Saturday we were debating sticking it out until the sun returned, but a park ranger informed us during breakfast that it would get worse before it got better - by breakfast we were the only campers left, so we felt well enough accomplished for the day.
We did however land a campsite right alongside the Appalachian Trail, which wasn't all that surprising seeing how very few people were competing for sites that weekend. Many of the areas had bear boxes and the bathhouse was a short walk away. Big Meadows is near mile 51 of the park and is close to many of the popular Shenandoah Hiking trails. It has around 200 sites and fills up quickly in the summer; only $20 per night.

Shenandoah Camping

I have a huge crush on this man

2009-09-27T20:01:00.000-07:00

National Parks on PBS

2009-09-05T22:14:00.000-07:00

The National Parks: America's Best Idea , a Ken Burn's film on the history and little known players in the foundation of the USA's national parks, is airing on PBS September 27. I'm determined to figure out how to record tv shows before then if my family's current television technology allows for such. I doubt Hulu runs too many Ken Burns specials?
Sept 27 - "The Scripture of Nature"
Sept 28 - "The Last Refuge"
Sept 29 - The Empire of Grandeur"
Sept 30 - "Going Home"
Oct 1 - "Great Nature"
Oct 2 - "The Morning of Creation"

In the latest Backpackers magazine I was reading an interview with Ken Burns about the series and after recalling a very meaningful trip to the Shenandoah with his father at a young age he stated, "You can stand on the rim of the Grand Canyon and see rock that is 1.7 billion years old, but it matters very much who's holding your hand...There is, as John Muir said, a practical sort of immortality in that." I liked that a lot...

Beaver Pond Campground (Harriman State Park, NY)

2009-08-13T21:38:00.000-07:00

If you're looking for a quiet weekend get-away in the Palisades region of New York, I'd suggest a trip to New York City. NYC should be a relaxing picture of serenity during summer weekends since much of the inhabitants seem to migrate to Harriman State Park. No, but seriously, with cramped camping quarters, loud ethnic music playing well past 10pm, and children crying well past midnight (and somehow waking up around 4am with just as much gusto) all that was missing were a few paved roads, pizza-joints, and maniacal taxi-drivers to complete the experience.

At Beaver Pond Campground, most of the sites are quite bare tree-wise and very close together, making the noise factor even more of a problem. I passed ear-plugs around to my entire family the second night of our stay and we all slept like babies (unlike the infants in the site across from us). A truck delivered firewood to sites for a certain fee each evening, but there was no general store to buy ice at unless you felt like walking across the entire campground and beach to the pond-store. Each night we watched an individual across from us attempt to chop firewood with a motion that slightly resembled an arachnaphobe slapping a giant spider while our other neighbors set up their fire pit with a display similar to Stonehenge in wood form perhaps with the hopes that some ancient energy would spread the spark to each independently standing log. I do recognize that as a family we have grown into quite a group of camping snobs and I'm sure that Harriman makes an excellent get-away for the NYC residents (it is only 30 minutes away from the city), but as a whole our stay was quite disappointing and at times verging on ridiculous.

The college-age employees seemed about as useful and knowledgeable as the cast from "Road Trip: Beer Pong," although slightly more sober due to the park's no alcohol policy. The girl behind the counter in the office was helpful enough, but the remainder of the motley crew seemed to loiter aimlessly about the campground flirting with each other and attempting to drive golfcarts down the hiking trails (which were about two shoulder breadths apart, hence the differentiation between "trail" and "road"). Granted, I may be slightly biased here seeing how after driving lost in NY for an hour (no NY state parks seem to be clearly marked, maybe sign-funding was cut due to the economic downturn) we arrived tired and on the verge of hysteria only to be reprimanded by a hot-shot youth for pulling across several parking spots (we had a 9-passenger van with a pop-up camper in tow). According to the numerically-challenged employee, they were expecting 200 reservations in the next 5 minutes (a daunting aspect for a campground of 140 sites) so we were forced to stick to strict traffic regulations in the then-empty parking lot during our 45 second reservation process.

In retrospect, our bad experience was probably as much our own fault as anyone's. The park's strong point is its many hiking trails (over 200 miles, including part of the AT) which we didn't take advantage of since our stay was more of a halfway camping break on our trek to Cape Cod rather than a backpacking trip. The one hike we did go on was pleasantly quiet, challenging, and picturesque though cut short by our decision to visit the pond in the morning. If given the chance again, I would reserve a camping spot in the A or W section (which seemed much more wooded) for a good couple days and spend most of the time on the hiking trails. Researching the trails beforehand would be useful, especially if there are maps online or in the library since they charge for maps at the campground.

Major Pros: Quiet hiking trails: the Appalachian Trail runs through the park, though not too close to Beaver Creek Campground according to employees (might want to look that one up).
Major Cons: Rather unfriendly employees, NYC influx, and golf carts on hiking trails. The campsites are sparsely wooded and cramped, quiet hours not-so enforced, only one water pump for the entire campground, no sinks to wash dishes in.
Tips: If you do camp here, try to get a site in either the A or W section. Both those seemed moderately wooded with much more personal space. Also, ask the Rangers for help/advice, not the college employees. Watch out for deer ticks (I found three after hiking). Lastly, when walking to the restrooms look at the roofs for the respective labels (mens/womens). The doors themselves are not labeled and my dad found himself in the womens room at one point due to this confusion.
Rating: ∆
Park Website

Five Blues, Belize

2009-07-16T14:29:00.000-07:00

Five Blues Lake National Park, Belize (Central America)

Over 4000 acres of broadleaf tropical forest, limestone hills, and freshwater lagoons, this secluded national park is centered around an intensely blue lake (Five Blues Lake), thought to be 200 ft deep at some points. The park was established by the locals of St. Margaret village and is the only National Park in Belize managed by community-based organization. Orchid Island, in the center of Five Blues Lake, is covered with orchids in April and May.

After getting off the bus at St Margarets you hike about 6 miles north along a winding track through acres of new citrus plantations to get to the actual park. Tourists had not frequented it in quite some time when we took our trip, so it all seemed very remote. We also did most of the hike to the park in the dark, which makes distance and difficulty hard to gauge. There was apparently once a Bed and Breakfast as well as mountain bike rentals near the lake, but we had the park completely to ourselves while we were there which only added to the experience. Floating around your own private vibrant blue lake with crystal clear water outweighs any insects or other pests you could come across. There are also nearby caves to explore as well close to 200 bird species within the park. All 5 species of wildcats within Belize have been spotted in the park, as well as howler monkeys, tapirs, gibnuts, peccaries and armadillos. We weren’t lucky enough to see any of the large mammals, but on several “bathroom breaks” in well wooded areas we were given quite a start by hearing a few of these species.

I will close this description with saying, of all the places I have been in all my travels (camping and non camping) this place is probably the one that I miss the most.

Major Pros: Having a crystal clear turquoise lake all to yourself.
Major Cons: If you don’t pack well, you might find yourself living off of tuna and peanut butter. While there we encountered a Fer de Lance (aka Bothrops Atrox), several scorpions, and large sounds from both the woods and lake. There kind of are no toilets. Also, in July 2006 Five Blues Lake mysteriously drained itself, with most of the water disappearing. Ecologists believe that the lake had been formed from a blockage that suddenly dissolved due to the lake's limestone formations. Since that time, the lake has again refilled, but you might want to hurry up and pay a visit before the natural plug gets pulled a second time.
Tips: Bring bug spray and long sleeves... and toilet paper. Try to start your hike through the village before 6pm. Hiking semi-lost in the woods in the dark in a foreign country can be a little unnerving.
Rating: ∆∆∆∆∆ (this undoubtedly ranks as one of my favorite places in the world thusfar)
Check it out: The Mysterious Case of Five Blues