somersetchef

Back once again

2015-05-26T00:58:00.000-07:00

Guess who's back,
back again?

Me.

I'm back.

JP (AKA somersetchef), not that I have really been anywhere.

But back I am.

The last couple of years have proven to be a really tough portion of my life, what with the workload gaining massively, the introduction of CandyShack Mill, family life and a general feeling of too low in energy at the end of the long days to interact via Blog, and no time to Tweet during the working day. I had, to be honest, taken on too much.

Health may have also been a factor, with poor diet, smoking and drinking (often) taking its toll on the system, adding to the lathargic state I had become encased in.

The work had taken its pound of flesh too. After becoming Freelance, I accepted every job available, not wishing to let anyone down. I found myself juggling dates with Family life and the new Business, unable to please either often. Then I became set in one of the venues I was working at. Issue after issue was arising, and I felt by giving more of my time was the fair thing to do until stability reigned. Two and a half years later, on a low wage for a Freelancer and working from morning to late night non stop, Stability may just be around the corner and my services will at last be a non requirement.

It has been one of the most hard to work in, most frustrating places I have had to endure. And although I have enjoyed the challenges that in itself throws up, I find that one vital element is sorely lacking in what I am doing.

I am support, not the Head Chef. I support the constant requirements of the Owners, the newly appointed staff members (of which there has been numerous) and most importantly, the Head Chef (of which there has been a few). My title had been likened to that of a Supplier and Consultant. This in itself makes me yearn to do what I am good at, to do what comes naturally, and to do what made me become somersetchef - Prolific Tweeter and Blogger.

Head up my own Kitchen.

Recently, I was approched by someone I had never met nor spoken to, who introduced me to an opportunity and Head Chef Position that was being advertised by a Landlord of a Dorset Public House He frequented.

After a series of e-mails, we had arranged a meeting with the Landlord, a casual chat/interview to find out about each other, the business, and the position.

To say the meeting ended on a positive would do it an injustice.

After spending so much time ensconced in the trenches of five-six, fifteen hour days, I suddenly found myself in a new setting more akin to where I love to be, and realise that rather than aiding others in a role created to suit the unique business management, I would be far happier facing the challenges of a kitchen at its helm. I had become so knitted into the fabric of where I was that I neglected to realise I had allowed myself to become a mentor, confidant and Kitchen Morale Mascot, serving up other people's food and creating mine there under someone elses name (some of the dishes I created were certainly some of the best I ever did). And I'm not being ungrateful, nor big headed. I got the opportunity to work with and for some amazing people who have certainly taught me new skills and techniques, but I miss everything that comes with being in sole charge of a kitchen, it's brigade and business elements.

I recieved an official offer of the Head Chef position, and have since handed in my notice at the other Business. There is a long notice period that I have to see through, but I am already ingraining myself with my future 'Home' weekly, preparing plans, menus, special dishes and looking at strengthening the team within the Kitchen.

And suddenly I am back. Tweeting much more often, getting excited about my style of food, and Blogging. Look! I am actually Blogging again!

There are so many careers out there that can suck you in and make you lose yourself snd your way, no doubt. But I can only speak with confidance about this humble trade we call Hospitality and Catering.

To anyone, who is deep within the trenches without sunlight and a change of scene. STOP.
Just for a small while. Go somewhere. Look around you. And make sure you can feel that Sunlight warm your face.

Blackberry Jam, Unleashed...

2012-09-05T07:57:00.000-07:00

In a County that thrives on foraging and Game meats, it is not that hard to raid Mother Natures Larder when she is not looking. The Important thing however is to do the plunder justice.

I have been creating a recipe for a dish using Venison and Guinea Fowl, and wanted a real powerful fruity sauce that smacked of hedgerows and open fields.
Blackberries are one of the most abundant berries in the United Kingdom and makes for an excellent Crumble, Pie and even Jam.

I have ended up creating this rather sexy little number that is truly stunning with plenty of natural characteristics and balances of flavours. This will be the base of my sauce for the Game and Poultry dish....Providing I don't steal it for my toast!

Makes enough for 1x1kg Kilner Jar

1KG fresh Blackberries, the plumper the better, washed and drained.

450g Preserve Sugar

50g Soft Brown Sugar

1 Sprig Rosemary, leaves squeezed

4 Juniper Berries

1 Star Anise

Pinch of Pink Peppercorns

6 Cloves

Grated zest of 1 Grapefruit

Juice of ½ Grapefruit

6 fl ozs pure apple juice (or one fresh eater, grated)

100ml Ruby Port

1x1Kilo Kilner Jar or several smaller Jam Jars, sterilised and fully dried (best way to dry in oven on low heat).

Disc of grease proof.

The Rosemary & Star Anise adds a whole new level of flavour to a classic Jam

Method:

Place the Blackberries and the sugar into either a Jam Pan or a solid base Saucepan. Give a good stir through, taking care not to damage the Blackberries too much.
Leave for roughly 30-40 minutes to allow the sugar to dissolve in the natural juice.
Place a small plate in your Fridge to chill down.
Place the Juniper, Star Anise, Peppercorns and Cloves Into a small Muslin square, Gather up all the corners, and tie up with a long length of Butchers string and tether the spice bag to the pan handle, ensuring the spices can submerge in the mix.
Add the Rosemary, Grapefruit Zest & Apple/Apple juice and place the pan on a low heat, stir and allow to come up to a bubbling heat.
Add the squeezed Grapefruit juice and the Port, give a stir and allow to boil for 5-8 minutes.
Using the chilled plate, spoon a small amount of the jam onto it to check the consistency of the Jam when set. Allow to cool for a few minutes. If the Jam sample sets to your liking, remove from Pan from heat and allow to cool down slightly. If, however the Jam is not thick enough, place back onto the stove and cook out for another 5-10 minutes. Repeat the above until your perfect Jam is ready.
Remove the Rosemary & Spice pouch, and then pour the Jam into a sealable glass jar.
Place the Paper disc onto the Jam, Secure the Lid and store until required.

Any good quality Apple Juice will work, but will change the background sweetness
and balance, so taste, taste, taste!

The Only Way Is Eating

2012-01-17T08:15:00.000-08:00

Saturday 14th January, 2012

6:10pm

Food is such a huge draw to some people, especially when it is crafted by widely known and regarded professional Chefs with stars and rossettes in tow.
People are willing to travel the length and breadth of this fair Country in order to share the experience of some truely memorable food.

So, I therefore beg the question:

Why would I, a professional Chef with a fair reputation for good food, travel for three hours in the cold of Winter to dine at someones home who is not a professional and does not even work within the industry?

Simple.

Passion.

I have been chatting to Mr. B (name with held to protect his current career) for a while now and his passion for food, cooking, and the dream of owning his own Bistro is, to say the least, endearing and infectious.

I know of people within the trade with far less food knowledge and passion, so when invited to road test his capabilities and critique his work, I couldn't say no.

And here I am in an undisclosed location in England typing up my introduction, whilst sat in a freezing Ford KA waiting for an acceptable time to announce my arrival at his door. (I am always very early for appointments, never, ever late)

And I am desperado for the lavatory.......

11:48pm

I am now sat back in the even colder KA about to leave, but need to make note of my initial summary.

The whole enjoyable, easy going and relaxed evening was amazing for the wrong reasons.

Now, that may seem harsh, but allow me to expand and tell you why. The meal was certainly the reason why the gathering was set in place, as the main focus of the evening was to acertain as to whether the Gentleman in question had the skills and ability to advance to a level of Chef/proprietor of his own, self funded Bistro.

However, the biggest resonance that the evening left was an overall warm feeling from meeting new people, sharing a table with them and enjoying an evening of good conversation, witty reparte, and exploration of individuals getting to know and understand each other. Be it over the top, but I left the home feeling not so much a guest, but rather that I had just gained some new close friends.

I know that some of you reading this may be suggesting that this is a good sign of a well balanced Dinner Party, and that the food should be there to give an enhancement to an enjoyable evening, and you are right. That is exactly the point behind good food. But this evening, as already mentioned, was designed to help our Host decide whether the pipe dream should stay just that.

And the answer to that, although not quite as succinct as I am just about to put it, is Yes.
And No......

Sunday 15th January, 2012

7:25pm

Arriving at home at 4:15 this morning, I decided to sensibly gain some sleep before going ahead and writing the rest of my piece on last night's soiray in order to give it my full focus and attention. And what better inspirational place than within my place of work, surrounded by people and enjoying each others company, as well as the ambience and most importantly, the food.

After finalising my introduction yesterday evening, I left the car and made my way along the quiet and unnasuming Street, climbed the aged worn Stone steps leading to my destination and knocked on the door 15 minutes earlier than the invitation indicated. Almost immediately after my rapping on the door ceased, the door was opened by whom I correctly assumed to be the Chef/Host. After a very warm, friendly welcome, I was introduced to a fellow diner, followed by Mr. B's wife. I immediately felt relaxed and at home as pleasantries were exchanged, and my Jacket for a very wonderful glass of chilled Sedlescombe Cuvee Bodiam Brut, West Sussex.

We then moved into the nice cosy front room, while Mr. B retracted himself to his kitchen to finalise tasks and, most probably, prepare himself mentally for what he was very soon embarking on.

The husband of the female Diner, whom I had already met, appeared from upstairs joined us and we started the usual getting to know you conversations, which was enjoyable, giving rise to genuine interest on all counts and general good banter.

The final guest arrived, a Scottish lady who had me genuinely bewitched with her strong personallity, fun sense of humour, and amazing depth of knowledge and understanding about pretty much everything.

After an offer of having our glasses refilled, Mr. B steered us towards the Dining room to prepare ourselves for the start of the main reason why we were all assembled. The next wine, a vibrant red-Les Nivieres 2010, Saumur, Loire was served, and so it began, the parade of edibles that was to be sampled, ruminated, discussed, digested and regurgitated in the form of honest opinions, thoughts, reccommendations and suggestions.

Dish one was an Amuse Bouche of An Olive Tuille with local Mozzerella, and slices of Baby Plum Tomato.
Portion size was honest and correct, with the presentation kept simple to enable the diner to see the taster was almost a homage to the base ingredients, that complexity was not key to what the host wanted us to experience.

The starter course arrived of Confit Duck with Cognac, Cornichons, dipping oil and Homebaked Breads. Again, the premise seems simple enough, asking those experiencing his craft work to realise his well created series of steps taken were ultimately to experience the quality and passion involved in producing the dish as a whole.

At this stage, one diner enjoyed it to the extent that he asked for a further sampling, as to him, the flavour and texture deserved to continue. Praise for any Chef, indeed.

A brief repast, apology for a delay in the next instalment, and the main course arrived of Pork tenderloin with green chilli, lime, herbs, wrapped in Pancetta, served with Puy lentils cooked in fesh Chicken stock, with a Mustard, Creme Fraische and White Wine Reduction. Accompanied with two large bowls of mixed baby leaf salad, we all tucked in silently to start with, focusing on our reason for being at the table. To me, although all dishes are to be of a good standard, the main course has to be the pinnacle and the culmination of all the Chef's effort, attention to detail and passion. After a few mouthfuls, encompassing all that was on the plate, a steady conversation returned as we all continued to finish the sybiosis of meat and pulse.

Final course, dessert, which to others is deemed as the real course that matters, and a brave attempt to deliver a Chef school classic that has to be 100% right, the highly revered Tarte au Citron. With Lavender Meringue.

At this stage, pushing the boat out, as well as showing just how important the whole experience was for Mr. B, a beautiful Dessert Wine from Bordeaux (possibly Chateau Liot 2008, Sauternes) was charged in glasses. And it was a perfect choice to accompany the sweet/tarte final dish.

I will catagorically go on record to say that this man certainly understands the concept of correct wine pairing and would happily ask him to arrange a selection for my own personal consumption, or even for accompanying my foods served within my place of work.

The conversation then ceased briefly, as our host sucked in his breath akin to final taste of sweet air before a hanging and asked the all important question.

A mix of carefully selected turns of phrase, very honest and direct analagies and broad ranging conclusions ensued, with Mr. B sagely and nervously hanging on each word, taking every slight and well meaning critique on board like the proverbial sponge.

The general consensus was that this man could certainly show a love of food and that rather than continue with the hosting of six seater supper clubs, in order to gain the capability of realising his dream, it would be prudent to:

spend time in real professional kitchens

Take over a cafe for an evening

Gain the vital theoretical knowledge of ingredients, recipes and cooking methods

And just as importantly, maintain the love and passion that has thrust him this far towards our world.

As I said my fairwells to all and made my way to the front door, I managed to personally thank Mr. B for his hospitality once more, giving a few final pieces of advice for him to take onboard before stealing into the icy night, back to the confines of my frost coated KA for the journey home.

Monday, 16th January, 2012

For the very astute of you, you will have noticed that 24 hours and more have passed by before I have drawn my closing conclusion. This is for good reason. Firstly, so I could give a full report to Mr. B before drawing this post to a close.
And secondly, because it is not that easy to be fully honest, when critiquing a party in someone's home that you were invited to, for free, with the company of such lovely people and wonderfully welcoming hosts.

But, conclude I must.

So, if this was a genuine invitation from a good friend for a meal, I would have been bowled over by the effort and generosity of such a wondrous series of dishes and wine. This would be the best meal in someone's house I have had.....

........But this was a call for professional advice and honest critiquing, in return for 4 courses and wine.

If Mr. B owned the Bistro, and therefore regarded as a fellow professional, then there would have been disappointments and 'issues with the meals on offer. Would it have prevented me from paying the bill when it arrived? No. Would I make a revisit? Perhaps not. Would I recommend it to friends and family. Sadly not. In this premise the food was okay, but had the hallmarks of an amateur at work which would have real gourmands tutting and certainly turning their conversation to every microscopic issue they then could relay to others. So, if Mr. B had his Bistro now I would advise him to employ a Head Chef and let the professionals do their job.

However, the mystery Man is not handing money over for a set of keys to his dream anytime yet, and has plans to keep building on his abilities, learn all he can from those who understand the trade and industry skills, and go thoroughly through underpinning knowledge, understanding the logistics and acknowledging the vast difference between home cooking and professional fine dining before even contemplating on opening doors to a business premises.

And because of that, I know that this man, this very brave and passionate man will one day invest in a set of whites and dazzle people with his cuisine. And when he does, I will be back there, knowing that any distance will be worth it.

A Tale of Two References (Contains sweary wordage)

2011-12-07T11:34:00.001-08:00

***WARNING***

This post contains swearing and may cause offence...Please do not read if easily offended!!!

Merci

A sad day took place last week, where we saw the longest standing member of staff leave us for pastures new.

On their last day, I was asked for a written reference so they could use it if required in the future.

I duly obliged.

......kind of.

For those unaware of kitchen banter, no stone is left unturned behind the closed swing doors that lead to the engine room of the food premises. Wit and swearing quite often fires off on all four cylinders, as 'your Mum' gags, comments on people's sexuality, sexual antics, mental abilities, and colour of hair (or lack there of)

But at this point, I should point out that the Kitchen team are a very close and tight group, always looking out for each other, covering each other's asses and possibly closer than any siblings could get. There is never any acceptance of malice nor bullying and any lines deemed by the whole team are never stepped over.

The following is a spoof Reference for the leaving team member, who upon reading it, had a look of shock when confronted with the first expletive penned sentence. The look soon made way to smiles, laughs and even tear washed cheeks as he read on to the end......

XXXXXXXXX Reference

December, 2011

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXk

XXXXXXXXXXXn

XXXXXXXXXt

XXXXXXX

XXXXX XXXXXX8

To whom it may Concern,

XXXX has worked within our Kitchen for 4 years, after stepping in from the Front of House, to cover the Head Chef unduly leaving without notice.

And what a fucking four years it has been.

Seems more like ten.

XXXX has a Fuck you attitude in everything he is asked to do, and meets all tasks and challenges with a deep sense of hatred for the ‘swine rat-bastards’ that keep ordering food, begrudgingly ensuring produce is completed and served to any fucker that can be arsed to come and get it. He is passionate, especially with the lads or young ladies with plump breasts, quick to shout at others and an admired colleague when he is actually being upbeat and amusing instead of the moody sod that scowls and mumbles when something has got right on his tits . I have come to rely heavily on him to fuck me off on a regular basis almost as if he is having one of them there lady periods.

He has a gentle touch and is more than up for a little man love, and for this, he will be greatly missed (XXXXXXXXX does not even make a close second *ginger*)

I wish him every success for the future and have no qualms in recommending him for employment within Catering and Hospitality.

....Anything to get the little Bastard away from here.

Regards

Yes, he did receive a correct and fulfilling Reference, and deservedly so. I have been informed it is now framed and on the mantelpiece for all to see......

.....Just hoping it's the right one.......

Recipe for Blinding Pickled Eggs

2011-12-07T04:11:00.000-08:00

Yet another festive feel good cupboard filler that graces most homes up and down the country this time of year is the love it/hate it pickled egg.

I find them really enjoyable with the cold spread left over Christmas buffet, just as well as simply dropped in a bag of crisps. (I know, strange custom, but it always conjures up memories of childhood evenings in the Village club, whilst drinking fizzy Vimto and listening to Andy Ford singing and telling jokes).

The problem, as usual, these days is that there a lot of poor quality eggs out there due to not enough flavour going into the Vinegar.

This recipe of mine changes that. The method is quick and simple where the only tedious part comes from having to wait for the little oval gems to steep adequately enough.

My Father-in-Law makes masses each year and prefers them to be shelved for at least 3 months. However, I feel that they are good to nosh from as little as two weeks after bottling.

Read on, join in and get pickling!

Latest Addition to the tray of loveliness....Pickled Eggs.

Ingredients

48 fresh Free range Eggs, medium. (I tend to collect mine from a couple of local farmers where I know the eggs could not get any fresher, and that the Chickens really are Free Range)
1 litre Malt Vinegar
500ml Balsamic Vinegar
1.5 litres White wine Vinegar
8 Cloves
1 Teaspoon Coriander Seeds
1 Dessertspoon Dried Pink Peppercorns
1 Teaspoon toasted and crushed Black Mustard Seeds
12 Dried Dates, Blitzed or finely chopped
10 sprigs of fresh Thyme
1 Large Onion, Diced
1 Garlic Clove, cut across the horizontal
2 Pinches Seasalt flakes
1 Pinch Cracked Black Pepper
Juice of ½ Lemon
1 ½ dessertspoons Truffled Honey (or good quality plain Honey)
2 dessertspoons Muscavado Sugar
3 Sage Leaves
2 Dessertspoons Tomato Puree

Method:

Add all the ingredients (except the Eggs) into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10 minutes, Stirring occasionally.
Remove from heat and allow to cool right down.
Bring a pan of Water to the boil and place the eggs in (in batches if need be). Boil for 10 minutes if Eggs are stored at room temperature, or 12 minutes if stored in the fridge.
Empty water, flush eggs with cold water for 8-10 minutes to stop the cooking process.
Peel and place in fridge covered until needed.
In clean and dry Jars, add your eggs. Make sure there is room in the jar to allow the Eggs to move around.
Strain the pickling vinegar through a sieve and retain the seeds, onion etc.
Pour the Vinegar over the Eggs, ensuring they are fully covered. Add a touch more Malt Vinegar if required.
Share out the Seeds etc, in amongst the Jars.
Seal with a tight fitting lid and gently shake to disperse the seeds etc. Add a Label with the Date they were made and store in a cool (not cold) place, ideally a cupboard.
Two weeks later, pop open and enjoy (with your banquette spread, or your packet of Crisps...).

Eggs Factor (Poor Pun Intended)

2011-09-18T15:28:00.000-07:00

Assuming by the time I finish this mini post (not more than twelve minutes from now) in a matter of 48 hours some one will have an accolade that may seem very insignificant to those on the outside, yet exceedingly huge to those within-(I think I may have just been able to utilise both a Mr. Kipling quote with a reference to the T.A.R.D.I.S at the same time, wow).

I am talking about the mighty Scotch Egg Challenge.

The challenge......being held at the Ship in Wandsworth?........The challenge, with the meat coated egg....No?
Where have you been?!

For those uncertain of what I am on about, here is a link to save me turning this post into an epical saga of gargantuan proportions....http://www.theship.co.uk/blog/2011/07/22/the-scotch-egg-challenge/

Go and read.....I shall wait here.....

Go on!

Now, it may still be a tad bizarre, but let me tell you something. It is going to be huge. I mean massive.

With a panel of esteemed judges giving the proceedings a sense of seriousness, the list of highly reputable Chefs, Restaurants, Artisans et al (and moi), and the buzz on twitter from those attending to spectate and sample alone, this competition that started from simple and humble beginnings has been turned into a competition that has received media interest, and continual comment and support on social sites.

I am in there too. Even getting grief from Pipe Dream UK that his has the 'jump' on mine, and something about a trophy cabinet (I remember an athlete named Ben Johnson who had one of those....and a fine collection of dust he had too!) I am well excited, not nervous, not smug, nor overly confident. I do, however, have faith in my Scotch Egg, and know that it can compete with, what must be undoubtedly the finest ScEggs in all the shires and lands. It will be all down to the Judge's take on what they see, smell, taste, feel when sinking those honed teeth into them (37 last count I believe!).

But, lest we forget, the main hub behind what the event is really all about is the chance to meet up, connect, network, build and forge professional & personal relationships and have a damned good time in the process. This idea of an event is what will make the industry stronger. Chefs, proprietors, guests, bosses, foodies, jouro's and others coming together and supporting each other, sharing good practices and ideas, and a little bit of Kitchen Banter.

So, If you aren't already, get your ass on over there (Tuesday 20th) for around 7pm, and bed yourself in for the evening of foodie fun and the only Eggs Factor worth watching!

Damn, overdone the writing time by 8 minutes, if this was my egg it would be F.U.B.A.R by now.

P.S. Comment below and wish me luck!

Recipe for Ham Hock, Goose & Haggis Terrine

2011-09-03T13:43:00.000-07:00

Christmas is well and truly here People!

Well, for us Chefs it certainly is.

It seems that amid this double dip (OOOer) recession our great Country is going through, the British Public are refusing to bow towards defeat, seem intent on staying calm and carrying on with a stiff upper lip.

We have been asked for Christmas menus and the like since late May/early June, and it appears other places around the Country have had similar experiences.

This is great news for us all who always look at least six months ahead, as it gives us an early indicator as to what to expect.

I always tend to get my Menu(s) for the Festive period written by the beginning of August to entice the Thousands of folk who come to us during the high Summer Month. This year, unfortunately, due to the sheer volume of custom and extra functions throughout the Holidays they have only just been set to print.

I am very pleased with the result this year, with a great selection of seasonally inspired foods playing the part of Christmas merriment in Gastro-form.

The first recipe from the menu is a homage to a beautiful old fashioned farmhouse staple; Ham Hock Terrine.

It's simplicity (although time consuming) and not only used the 'poorer' meat from the humble pig, but also conjured up Christmas and Summer and Spring.......and early Autumn when eaten.

I have decided to inject a little extra with the use of Haggis and, the becoming more popular, Goose.

Ingredients:

4Ham Hocks

2 medium onions, Rough chopped

6 sprigs of Thyme

8 Black Pepper Corns

350ml Dry Cider

¼ Bunch Flat Leaf Parsley, Chopped

100g Capers (surphine work best)

1kg Goose Thighs

1 Bulb Garlic, Sliced Horizontally

2 Sprigs Rosemary

Cracked Black Pepper

2 level tablespoons Sea salt flakes

1.2kg Goosefat

500g Haggis

8 Gelatine Leaves

Method:

Place the Hocks, Onion, Thyme, Pepper Corns and Cider into a good sized saucepan.
Cover the ingredients with cold water and bring to the boil.
Skim away the detritus and reduce the temperature to the lowest setting. Simmer for approximately 3 hours or until the Ham is beautifully tender.
During this time, Place the Goose Thighs in a roasting tin along with the garlic, Rosemary and Pepper and Salt.
In a Pan, slowly melt the Fat. Pour over the Thighs, ensuring they are fully covered.
Place tin on the stove top on the lowest heat and allow the fat to rise to a temperature of 87.7°C/190°F.
Lay a sheet of greaseproof on top.
Place on the middle shelf of a pre-heated oven (140°C/275°F/GM 1) and cook for 2 ½ hours.
Remove both from heat when completed and allow to cool down.
For the Goose, remove from tin and place in clean container. Pour over enough of the fat to fully cover the meat. Place in the fridge for 24 hours.
Remove the hocks from the pan, and retain 500ml of the liquid. Discard the rest.
Strip the Hocks down, removing all fat, bone and any gristle (the meat needs to end up being thin, small shredded strips).
Combine the stripped meat with the Parsley and the Capers. Place in a container for 24 hours
After the 24 Hour Period, remove the Confit Goose Legs from the fat and strip down to pieces the same size as the Ham.
Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes to soften.
Place the Goose meat into 2 cling film lined 1ltr terrine tins, pressing down firmly until tightly packed.
Next, shape the Haggis into a Sausage shape, long enough to go the full length of the mould, and about 2 inches in diameter. Place on top of the Goose, centrally.
Build the Hock meat around and on top of the Haggis, pressing into place, leaving a ½ inch gap at the top of the tin.
Strain the retained Ham stock in to a pan, and warm through on a low heat.
Squeeze out the water from the gelatine, and dissolve in the Hock Stock. Mix thoroughly.
Slowly pour onto the Terrine, allowing the liquid to disperse amongst the meat. Once the Liquid stops soaking in and covers the Ham by ¼ inch, leave to cool.
Cling film the top and place in the fridge for 2 hours.
Cut out a piece of thick card that fits the top of the tin, lay on top and weigh down with tins or anything weighty and hygienic.
Place in fridge over night.
Remove weights and card, and turn out onto plastic tray.

Ideally the Terrine should then be refrigerated for 7-10 days before using, but can be sliced sooner.

Perfect with a simple salad, and some cracking Piccalilli.

Enjoy.

J.P. De Ronne and the Mystical Egg of Fate

2011-08-18T10:24:00.000-07:00

Fate is a bizarre old fish.

Some people place their whole life choices and paths inside its invisible hands. They toast their successes and place their misfortunes squarely on its infinitely broad shoulders.

Others refutably deny its existence alongside its cousins; Luck, Blind Faith and Hope. To those, the only person to congratulate or blame is the self.

Whatever the reality, I now have a new path to follow that has opened up due to certain actions having taken place.

A few weeks back, I received a batch of ‘exotic’ meats to play with in the kitchen on the Hill that got my culinary brain juices leaking and my hands turning the varying ingredients into quite a large, complex series of tasks, which has been briefly mentioned before on a previous post.

One such idea that burst into life was a take on the humble Scotch Egg. The premise was a simple one but with a series of ingredients that would hopefully give our diners a unique tasting experience without compromising the basic grounding or origin of the legendary bar snack.

The finished result was perfectly formed, and full of flavour and snapped up quicker than I could have imagined and began to tell about it on the social sites in conversation. At this point I was introduced to an event that was coming up at a Pub in Wandsworth where Public Houses, Restaurants, Individuals and even shops would be taking part in.

Looking into it further, I realised that the date was one which I could not attend due to work loads and family commitments so I abandoned all thoughts towards competing with my newest addition to my repertoire.

However, closer to the date, whilst wishing all competitors the best of luck, I saw a tweet from the Host Public House postponing the event due to the terrible riots that were unfolding within London.

Once again, I placed the Scotch Egg Challenge to the back of my mind, focusing on the day to day running of my Kitchen which was feeding an average of two hundred diners each day, as well as the weddings every Saturday, additional functions and barbecue events throughout the weeks.

Finally, after working for 16 full days in a row and spending the spare time I did have trying to fix the broken car with a friend, I managed to slow up a little and reinstate myself in the immersive world of Twitter to catch up with other people within my follow line. It was during this time that a message about the #scotcheggchallenge (as it is being bandied about) got re-tweeted into my timeline giving the new date of Tuesday, 20^th September.

Now, fate or no fate, I decided to check the family Calander that is hung in the Kitchen to check to see what would be happening on that specific day in the De Ronne household, as there is always a club or party or get together or work related ‘thing’ occurring each day of the year it seems.

Empty.

I double checked the new Challenge date, holding the mobile phone alongside the Family organiser to ensure both details matched. And, to my pleasant surprise, they did. The day was unusually free of any tasks.

Not even a bill due to be paid that day.

And the rest, so far is History.

I have queried the proprietors of The Ship in Wandsworth with regards to eligibility, sent details and have now been officially accepted into the Challenge.

Which is getting really big.... frequently written about.....renamed by some as the World Championships.......and seemingly quite an important event in Britain’s Catering Calendar.

It may be just because of a series of random events, mixed with being in the right place at the right time. It may be this fate thing that many believe in, but both I and my special balls are going to challenge some true Scotch Egg Masters and Connoisseurs next month and I will enjoy every moment.

Wish me Luck!......If you believe in that kind of thing.

Food, The Social Medium

2011-07-06T09:35:00.000-07:00

Food is food at the end of the day.

It is a means to keep our bodies in a condition in which to function.

But since the foodie revolution in the late 90's it has become much more here in the UK.

If you search on the internet you will find hundreds and thousands of people who are celebrating food in all manner of styles, types, locations and levels of sophistication. The rise of blogging from these people is staggering, as well as their presence on social sites such as Twitter.

It has had an impact in the UK catering trade, and in a good way on the whole. Chefs are now in need of finding new angles and styles, pushing boundaries and developing niches to suit and excite these outspoken diners.

There is also less room for error and definitely no room for bullsh** which gives way to a more clear and honest approach to what we do in a professional capacity. And I for one like this.

Foodies on the whole are everyday people from all walks of life who share a common interest in good food. Through the power of the internet they shout and rave about the great places they have dined, the amazing recipes they took a crack at, and the best markets, food festivals and local producers they have come across.

They are a multitude of critics, more powerful than the likes of the legendary Jay Rayner et al, primarily because these people are the every-man. Your neighbor, work colleague, friend.

In my current line of work within the trade, I constantly strive to bring fresh ideas to the business that suits the demands of our guests. The menus have changed frequently enough to reform into the type of foods that the paying clients want and highly enjoy. There is no self-centered ego contained within with cursed words claiming Chef knows best. But there is passion in every dish created, cooked and served. Through listening to the guests comments and conversations the food has become very traditional in style, resulting in quality Pub Fayre, but still done in a way that holds our audience in amazement and therefore ensures word of mouth and re-visits.

The most recent venture I tasked myself with was more of a challenge than previously expected, but is now coming into fruition.

Tapas is a well received style of food these days, associated with sunny days and warm evenings, bottles of wine shared between friends and the ultimate in social eating. I love the idea of a Tapa, and have been asked more times than I care to recall if I would consider doing one here. My response has always had to be in the negative as it does not reflect with the over-all style to the Public House. However, I am always up for a challenge so looked into alternative ideas. What eventually came to be took the best part of two months to construct, source, create and implement.

Due to the rise of amazing local specialty products I went on the hunt to find great food that would suit what I had in mind.

Through networking via social sites I began to find Artisan companies from around the West Country that oozed passion and the sense of small scale which was exactly what I was looking for. I found Handmade Scotch Eggs that were packed solid, full of flavour and most importantly, moist. Sausage Rolls hand made by a Butchers Wife that tasted out of this world. Melt in the mouth Hand raised Pork Pies (without gelatin). A cracking Artisan Meat company that makes (among other things) Beautiful Venison Salami, Air Dried Mutton and Cured Veal. An Old Farmers Wife who pickles Onions the way our Grandparents used to. A Fab tiny bakery with amazing old fashioned bread. And some of the most mind blowing cheeses you can imagine.

They all inspired me to go back to the roots of food, to remember simple snacks that I used to enjoy as a child. I ended up creating all sorts of recipes including Chicken wings, marinated in Orchard Apple Juice, Ground Almonds and Cinnamon, and Green Peppercorn Smoked Mussels finished in Burrow Hill Cider Brine.

We now have the functionality and social aspect of a Tapas coupled with the old fashioned British Bar snack in our newly released West Country Artisan Deli Board. Simple foods traditional in aspect yet the peak of quality and flavour. The time I become very proud is when a wide selection goes out to one table, knowing that the lucky guests are understanding the concept, enjoying the pairing with selected local Ales and Ciders, and telling all who follow their tweets, shouts, and status updates.

God bless you Foodies, without you, British Cuisine would be extinct.

Mackerel-icious Sandwich filling

2011-05-18T12:19:00.000-07:00

Sustainability.

Still carrying on about it.

It may have gone quieter, but Fish discards and sustainable sources are still a very hot topic and justifiably so. Fish species are in as much danger as the Giant Panda, Tiger or the Black Rhino. In fact, two out of the top ten Endangered species are the Beluga Sturgeon and the Mako Shark.

As I write this, There has already been a debate in the House of Commons with regards to Fish discards, Fish Fight and the CFP (Common Fisheries Policy) which is great news, but retiring early feeling all is done would be a mistake.

As a nation of food lovers, and especially all us within the catering industry we need to continue the support by means of opting for alternative fish, experimenting with flavours and creating new exciting recipes.

The beautiful Mackerel (AKA the Sea Pigeon) is in abundance round our Coastal shores and is such a versatile choice of Sea meat you cannot go wrong.

It can be grilled, baked, roasted, pan fried, deep fried, Barbecued, smoked and even Curried. It has a rich aroma that is not unpleasant at all and its flavour is one of depth and freshness.

We have a local Gent who goes beach fishing regularly and will turn up of an early morning with his trophies which we then serve up to eager diners in a multitude of ways.

We offer Mackerel Salads, Grilled Mackerel with Crushed New Potatoes a zingy Tomato sauce and fresh Pesto, Mackerel in a Grain Mustard & Cider Batter served in a Rustic Roll and our new Sandwich/Jacket filling; Smoked Mackerel with Spring Onion & Horseradish Mayonnaise.

The latter has become a big seller which replaced the staple Pub filling of Tuna & Sweetcorn. We opted to remove the fishy filling because of the largely unknown sourcing and fishing methods that were utilised to produce the tinned Tuna. All we knew was the fact it was processed and canned in Asia. Customers showed mixed emotions when the filling was removed, but was soon forgotten and we now sell more of the Mackerel than we ever did with the Tuna.

Smoked Mackerel with Spring Onions & Horseradish Mayonnaise

Ingredients for 4-5 Jacket Potatoes/Demi Baguettes

6 Smoked Mackerel fillets.

3 Spring Onions

Juice of ½ Lemon

Pinch Cracked Black Pepper

1 ½ Dessertspoons Quality Horseradish Sauce

6 Dessertspoons Quality Mayonnaise

Good Handful Chopped Fresh Coriander

75g Fresh or Defrosted Frozen Peas

Method:

Remove the skin from the Mackerel fillets, and any bones that can be found. Tear flesh by hand into small pieces and place into a mixing bowl.
Peel the Spring Onions, top and tail. Slice finely into rings and add to the Mackerel.
Add the Lemon juice, Black Pepper, Horseradish & Mayonnaise. Stir the Ingredients together until well mixed. (The mix needs to be bound and coated without being too wet. If in doubt add four dessertspoons of Mayonnaise, mix and add more if required.
Add the freshly chopped Coriander and Peas and fold through the mix.
If this is being made in advance and being stored in a Fridge, there will be a layer of Oil formed when utilised. This is from both the Fish and the Mayonnaise. Therefore for better results mix the Horseradish and Mayonnaise in its own bowl and add just before use, Mixing the fish oil back into the other ingredients first.

-Containing Protein Vitamins B, A & D, Calcium Iodine, Fluorine, Magnesium, Zinc and high amounts of the Clinically Ratified Omega 3 Oils, Mackerel is a fabulous food to aide and maintain a healthy heart, body and mind. Get some, try some and Enjoy.

Masterchef UK: mainstream television

2011-02-16T15:37:00.000-08:00

So it has begun..........

Masterchef UK started tonight at the new time and new channel, proving not just how popular the program is, but also how much people enjoy watching the blood sweat and tears behind creating passionate food.

Boasting a swanky new set, both Gregg Wallace and John Torode launched themselves straight into the frying pan of uncertainty, as the doors opened for eager foodies to cook to impress and secure themselves a place in the top twenty.

The dishes served up were an eclectic mix ranging from inspired to tired.

There seemed to be some that had practiced and had become reasonably well versed in their showpiece which received fair praise, and deservedly so. Then there were those that made me wonder if firstly they had even attempted the dish before, and secondly, if the individuals had ever watched Masterchef before to gain understanding as to the level of cooking expected.

We saw the usual suspects lined up: People looking for career changes, people with mid life crisis's, those who have been told by Friends and lovers they are amazing at cooking. The obligatory I want to quit my job and open my own Gastro Pub (grrrrr), The over thinkers, under-achievers and the raw edged souls who yearn for guidance to become the next best thing in the Industry.

After 45 minutes of preparation time, the hopefuls load up their trolleys one at a time and dispatch themselves into the room beyond with a single kitchen area to finish their offerings in front of the two formidable hosts.

This gave Gregg and John ten minutes to grill, quiz and de-construct the individual, before they pass their judgement on the presentation, textures and flavors set before them.

Dreams were fulfilled for some, for others they were dashed, whilst a small handful were granted the opportunity to retry by returning the following day. At the end we were left with 11 hopefuls through to the first stage of this prestigious televised Food journey.

For me, Masterchef has not really started yet, and won't until the chosen ones start cooking in that big Kitchen, competing against each other to be recognized for their raw abilities, secret talent. These first two days almost feel like they are purely a demographic pleaser, an amuse bouche, keeping en vogue with currently big audience grabbers and smacking of Xfactor/Britain's Got Talent. Gregg and John look relaxed and comfortable in their surroundings, and unnaturally quiet with regards to their usually animated verbal-isms, almost like they too cannot wait to get stuck in to the Starter courses that are the first rounds.

The show does already promise to be as emotionally exciting as always, with each of us finding our wannabe to champion (although my favorite tonight was axed during the life-line cook off, so need to rethink). And most of this is down to the personalities of the keepers of the Aprons.

These guys are all about food.

They have passion, knowledge, a nurturing quality and above all else, an infectious attitude to the fact that the proof is in the eating. Hell! I get excited watching them get mesmerized by some of the food they eat, the smiles and noises of ecstasy when someone hits the notes spot on and plays the tune they know so well.

I would love to meet those guys and share a whole day of eating and talking Food. Or even a whole weekend........Or a whole week.

......Or once every 3rd weekend for a year.

One of my top qualities as a Chef is that I am always talking about ingredients, dishes and all things food orientated with friends, family, colleagues and often clients who ask questions like I am a walking Food bible.

One of my bad qualities as a Chef is that I am always talking about ingredients, dishes and all things food orientated with friends, family, colleagues and often clients who ask questions like I am a walking Food bible.

And that is what this show represents. Passion for what we do and for what we eat. Britain has a relationship with food that is ever growing stronger, putting it well and truly on the map as one of the top, if not the best, Countries for all things Culinary. Thanks to the Chefs, the Producers, Foodies, and the likes of Masterchef UK for making food more than just a means to live.

Don't just Eat to Live. Live to Eat!

JP’s Nana's green Tomato Chutney

2011-02-04T06:18:00.000-08:00

This is an aged recipe that my Nana used to make amongst other chutneys and jams.

I have modified it slightly to help bring out the best of the flavours, but by and large this is still the same Chutney that I used to enjoy with a doorstop of fresh Bloomer & some proper Farmhouse Butter.

Ingredients

1.5kg green tomatoes

4 large apples

2 small cucumbers

3 large onions

200g sultanas

275g Demerara sugar

2 tblspn mustard

1 ½ tspn ground ginger

1 tspn cayenne pepper

1 ½ tblspn salt

1.1 pints vinegar

Method

Remove tomato eyes, slice onions, apples (peeled), cucumbers and place in pan with all the ingredients.
Bring to boil and simmer for 1 ½ - 2 hours, stirring frequently.
Put into jars and seal.
This is good to use after 3 days.

Blood, Sweat & Tears: A Passionate trade.

2011-02-02T04:41:00.000-08:00

Did You Know?......

It is calculated that on average, 148million meals are consumed within the UK, per year with a steady 0.5-1% increase year on year, resulting in an excess of a £40 billion market.

It is also believed that as an average, one in nine meals per week are taken outside of the home, and the mean spend per meal is £12.75.

Big numbers, which will be knocked out of the proverbial park next year when the Olympics begin.

Obviously, some of those diners are made up of Critics, Mystery Diners, and people from within the trade resulting in the situation where the humble trade is under professional scrutiny quite often without the staff ever realising.

Critics are loved and hated for numerous reasons. Some are well respected and often invited to dine at an establishment in the hope that their food and service satisfies enough to gain praise and bankable words from which to gain business. Some are despised because of their acid tongues and far too high expectancy, where nothing ever seems good enough and their damning verbalisms jeopardise the effort that has been put into the whole restaurant et al.

Mystery Diners are usually employed to seek out specific answers and grading for the Companies’ own insight into branch quality of service and delivery of product. These are usually welcomed as a way to improve in areas that are lacking, although sometimes poor results are met with Management excuses and appeals.

Professionals within the trade dine out for two main reasons:

1) Just part of a normal way of life, just the same as anyone else would.

2) To see what the competition are doing, and rate alongside their own work.

It is very difficult dining out if you are within the trade.

For those outside the business of Catering, it is a way of eating food prepared by someone of (usually) trained ability therefore as long as the food is good and the service is personable the experience is enjoyed.

For those of us within, there is the problem of not being able to fully switch off from reflective practice succinct to your job role. We don’t mean to. We would be far happier to be able to be ‘normal’ and relax, enjoy and walk away content........

But we can’t..........

From the welcome when we walk in the door, the time it takes to be served at the bar, the seating at the table. The table layout, the staff member selling the specials and highlighting dishes on the menu, the way the menu is laid out and worded. The length of time it takes to place the order. The offer of wines to compliment the meal, jug of iced water on the table.

The time it takes from ordering the food to receiving the first course. Having the correct cutlery already placed. The appearance of the dish and if the plate is hot or cold. The check back (if it actually happens), is the clear down done in a timely fashion? Time to next course? Offer of further drinks. Offer of the dessert menu/Coffees/Teas/Brandies? The issuing of the Bill and subsequent handling of the payment and finally, the actual feeling that you were a valued guest and they truly look forward to receiving you again.

All of the above is mentally ticked off in most customers heads as the dining occurs, yet tradesmen examine every particle under a culinary and servitory microscope, highlighting each flaw with a sigh, a tut and a smug smile knowing you do better yourself. Each slight negative is smothered in a smudge of blackness adding unfair minus points large than they actually are.

I used to be like that, back in my cocky youth for a small amount of time. It may have been more for the reason of trying to impress the girlfriend at the time, or to inflate my own ego or even both at the same time. It is an unhealthy way to dine out resulting in an expensive way of not cooking for yourself. I soon changed my ethics with regards to eating out, and now if anything, I have more leniency towards mishaps during my time at another’s table.

.....But not too much.

I am, after all a fellow diner who does want what should be more than the bare minimum for my hard earned money. I am also a champion for the Catering & Hospitality business being the best it can be and the best it should be.

I abhor those that believe it is easy to run a Pub/Hotel/Restaurant or any other Catering business without prior knowledge and experience only to mar us with a very poorly run unit. It is an insult to the Industry and those who work within it.

This often results in the lack of professional finesse and the theory that service can be done using cheap labour without training or need for career motivation. Most all places I have had poor to awful experiences have been in Pubs and the like that was run by wannabe big wigs. (This is not true to every person that comes into it from the outside, some are very able, understanding the level of skill and service needed and creating the perfect team to execute the tasks).

On these occasions when the overall experience is so poor I will complain, bitterly. I exchange words with them befitting of an Edwardian man defending the honour and virtue of his family. If I feel the trade and myself do not receive adequate satisfaction I will place comments (where able) ensuring other potential diners are aware.

When national statistics are created, the whole is cross sectioned and a means is found to give an approximate of where things officially lie. Taken as part of this statistic are the afore mentioned week links, resulting in down marking overall scores, percentages and overviews.

To those that do this to us listen up.......

Either get in line, respect the hard work, effort and commitment of the professionals within, or get the Hell out of My trade!

Copyright? copywrong!

2011-01-30T02:39:00.000-08:00

I read a very good article on a fellow Bloggers' (Northern Snippet, go check her out at: http://thepublandlady.blogspot.com) spot today and decided to leave a Comment.
Which I did........

15 Minutes later I was still writing, so decided to place the Comment as a Blog on mine instead...It was way too long to be a comment!
The Post written, entitled 'Hands Off Chef' discusses the Arrogance of some Chefs that feel their product is so unique and so amazing that they Copyright these dishes for fear of others gaining success and notoriety from it.

This did grate my nerves and I whole heartedly agree with Northern Snippet.
Below is my origional Comment.
Read Northerns' .........

http://thepublandlady.blogspot.com/2011/01/hands-off-chef.html

.....and then mine

Hello Northern Snippet!
Great Post, as always!

Here is my Comment in response to your fantastic article.

Chef's on the whole, get their ideas from cook books that are sold to the British public. They have a play, change a few bits round, then 'Tah-Dah!', they have created their own secret recipe! But, this has a few irk-isms for me........

1) These books are aimed at the Public to create in their homes using ingredients widely available. These books are not aimed at Chefs. (although there is nothing wrong with gaining inspiration from their peers, taking it and changing the salt used or swapping sweetcorn for peas is not exercising ones' talent or professional capabilities)
2) To then cover up the ingredients and copyright the Recipe makes no sense, after all, if someone dearly wants to be able to create that amazing dish that is one of the biggest forms of flattery you can get!
3) Look at the Menus....full of Allergy advice-contains Gluten, contains Soya, Contains Sultanas, contains Nuts and/or derivatives there of, contains sesame, contains food of a non ethical source, contains foods that may be Organic, contains...Ingredients!
These days we have to label the items contained therein for the fear of getting sued for not mentioning a product that may cause adverse effects on your consumers (I have recently taken to using Fennel & Dill Pollens in my cooking, a new Gastro-Ingredient that is versatile and amazing, but for fear of evoking Hay fever, I have added a (P) to the Menu!)
4) If all Cooks, Chefs and the like forbade others from using recipes then there would be no Classics that we grew up with which has stood the test of time, e.g. Shepherd's Pie, Steak & Kidney Pudding, Yorkshire Pudding, English Trifle etc, etc. There would also be a virtually indistinguishable line between what is considered copyright infringement and what is not, and this would have a severe domino affect on the whole Community.
5) We are not Gods of the food world...we are but humble masters of the art and therefore need to respect the medium in which we work and understand we do not own any of it.
6) If you really want to get your Ego rubbed and be recognised, do the same as me, write a bloody cook book, and Blog your cocky heart out!

2011-01-28T01:11:00.000-08:00

Band Wagons.

The trouble with them is every bugger gets on, leaving little room for individual personality. Like fashion..........

And Trends.

BIG Hospitality ran a feature recently where highly admired Chefs gave their predictions as to what will be gastronomically En Vogue in 2011, which will no doubt have others searching amidst their area for supplies and recipes to keep them 'hip' and happening.

Certain Things I get, and fully follow. Like utilising locally produced, reared and grown produce. Obviously the recent sustainability surge with regards to fish (and other produce). But these aren't trends, they are Revolutions spurred on through the gaining of knowledge and the attainment of Ethics.

When the call for buying local erupted forth from legendary proclaimed chefs shouting from the rooftops of their Restaurants and Hotels I stuck my thumb out and hitched that lift. However, after time I realised that although Local is a very important part of our current Ethos, the one thing we were seriously overlooking was the quality aspect.

As a Chef, I take pride in utilising the best ingredients I can get and that means not all that comes from within a given radius of supply will necessarily meet my needs. For example, The weather and soil further up the Isle, I.E. Norfolk, may aid the production of a better quality Carrot as opposed to the Somerset Levels. The grazing land may be better in Yorkshire nurturing better Milk, as opposed to the wilds of Cornwall.

And it's not just product for product. It is also product within product. Consider the Potato. With approximately 4000 varieties grown throughout the world and around 80 farmed in the United Kingdom, there is plenty to choose from. Chefs have their favourites depending on what task the humble spud is for and a lot of the attraction will be due to the quality of local crop.

I do still buy locally, don't misunderstand. I get these amazing Jerusalem Artichokes, and Shallots from just down the road albeit from a very annoying (overly passionate) grower. I get my Fish from two 'as local as land-locked Somerset can be' suppliers. and all my meat is raised within the Borders of Somerset, Dorset, Devon & Wiltshire. I get very ratty & pissed off if ever I have found out a supplier has bought any produce that has travelled more air miles than I have because it was a good deal and have not told me before purchase. I would rather pay more, charge more and enable myself to sleep safe in the knowledge that Britain is growing and rearing fine foods for me and my Diners.

The main hub of this post is to heavily endorse and promote a fantastic Local (yet not....sort of) product that I am very fortunate to be allowed to utilise.

At the bottom of the Village, there is a hidden farm reached via a 'Southfork' style track with white fences adorning the sides and wide open level fields of grass beyond. Occasionally you catch a glimpse of Bovine herds in the distance roaming free, grazing and lazing under mighty Oak trees. Eventually you arrive into the large and clean complex typical of any aged Farm in the UK. There are signs pointing the directions that one may need to take including the Butchers shop.

The Farm is called Lower Oakley Farm and as afore mentioned, looks similar to other Beef Farms yet there is one slight difference..............

They are not Cows.

The placid Beasts that roam this idyllic Somerset countryside are Water Buffalo.

Similar in appearance to your average breed of Cows there is only three features that make them notably different in species. They are all a rich chocolate brown in colour, their 'Blade' (the ridge after the neck) is highly defined, and they have magnificently carved and curved Horns.

These mighty animals are just as inquisitive as Cows tend to be and often wander over to the fences for a nuzzle and a sniff which is when you notice their deep, searching eyes, often shaded beneath toupees of hair.

The farm started out with a Herd of 22 which were imported from Romania, and to date they have increased to a steady 200 strong. Their diet consists of grass for most of the year and then during the freezing Winter months they are fed natural Winter Forage which the Farmer grows on his own land. At no point do the Buffalo eat any form of added concentrates, ensuring that they maintain a traceable Organic lineage.

When the animal has been killed, it is then matured for 21 days on site before the Barry expertly Butchers the meat into various cuts to sell at Farmers markets and within their own shop. As this is a small concern, the produce is only for public retail, and there are no plans to breed enough for Catering outlets. However! I am lucky enough to have gained the good grace and blessing of both Tony the Farmer and Barry the Butcher to feature their wonderful meat within my place of work.

On my Classic Pub Menu I have created a mouthwatering and flavoursome Buffalo Burger, using high quality Mince, and seasoned with blended Onions, Cracked Pepper & Sea Salt. We also sell their topside, Roasted on Sundays as opposed to the usual Beef. And I have just created a new Pie of Slow cooked Diced Buffalo, Somerset Cider, & Caramelised Shallots with a delicate Blue Cheese Pastry.

All three dishes come highly praised and we would probably sell even more (especially the pie) but, just as the Farmer insists on keeping a small, sustainable herd, I too keep an eye on the amount that I require to enable us to maintain an equilibrium in supply and demand.

That should not stop you from trying this fabulous meat though and urge you to find some and try it. It has approximately 40% less Cholesterol & 70% less Fat than normal Beef, rich in Iron and other vital Minerals, has a slightly more open Texture, a terrific fresh flavour that melts over your palate, and is a very tender and pure meat.

Coming next....Recipe for Buffalo!

This little Piggy........

2011-01-26T07:13:00.000-08:00

"Everything in a Pig is good. What ingratitude has permitted his name to become a term of opprobrium?""
Grimod De La Reyniere

I love meats. They are a beautiful medium to use in the kitchen that often gets showcased as the best meal on the menu, be it in a pie, as a chop or cutlet, roasting joint, steak, burger, casserole or sandwich filler. People are willing to pay phenomenal prices for certain cuts of meat from specific animals because they know how good it will taste.

When I purchase my meat, I insist on knowing where the animal has come from, which means I often visit the Producer along with my trusted and valued Butcher to ensure that I feel comfortable with the way they are reared. This includes the way they are kept, their feed, their space to roam, their shelter and how much the farmer actually cares for them. There is one small holder I know that plays music to his Sheep & Lamb daily, and another that believes in massage for his herd, amazing!

One of my suppliers is a fab Rare Breeds Piggery in Dorset where the pigs have acres of space to roam, are fed on nothing but good food, are probably the friendliest ones I have ever met. Their shape is perfect, not over fed and fattened, but not too lean. I often select a Pig from time to time and when ready, it is killed and butchered to the specifications I need at the time, with nothing left to waste (I often train my staff on old school things like Brawn, faggots etc.) My favourite two finish products I enjoy creating are Pork Belly, and Hams.

Hams can be plain, which lets the Meat do all the talking with it's unadulterated freshness and unique taste, but I enjoy the steeping and cooking with flavours to end up with a truly flavoursome product. This is a curing recipe I have tweaked from an old Farmhouse cookbook which was originally from Oxfordshire area. It is best to cure Hams during late Autumn or Early spring where the air conditions are better for the process.

Beer & Juniper Cure for Air Dried Hams

Ingredients for 8kg Boneless Pork leg:

470g Soft Brown Sugar
250g Rough Sea salt
3 pints of Beer (This is an important factor of the process, as this determines a large portion of the outcome in flavour. Too malty and the product may become bitter, too Hoppy and the Ham may carry a lingering floral note. Taste the ales first, and then decide on the one for you).
235g Juniper Berries
87g Celery powder or salt

Note: The original recipe called for Saltpetre which is the product that created the Nitrates required to cure the meat as well as give it the lovely pink colour that is associated with Hams. These days, Saltpetre is only utilised in some Butchers as a means to keep their Sausages Pink and if they cure their own hams. I have changed the recipe to omit this form of salt by upping the natural Sea salts (which have a good volume of the required Nitrates), and added Celery powder or salt. Powdered Celery is a good natural alternative to Saltpetre. Otherwise, if you have a good specialist food supplier, you could use Pink salt instead.

Method:
Put all the ingredients into a pan and boil for 10 minutes.
Allow to get cold.
Place the Ham into a 5 litre tub and cover with the liquid. Cover and leave in a cold place (ideally in a chill room, or anywhere that the temperature is anywhere between +5 to +10 degrees C
Lift and turn the Ham in the tub, massaging the meat briefly every 3 days over a period of 12 days.
Remove from the Pickle, rinse off brine, double wrap in muslin and hang until dry in an airy, cool and dry place (5-9 months is best, but is ready after 6-8 weeks)

The call of the Insomniac (or can't sleep, won't sleep)

2011-01-06T03:11:00.000-08:00

09:00am

As I reach for my, what is it now? sixth Coffee of the morning? there is a quiet serenity to the uninhabited Kitchen.

Uninhabited except for me, sat in the corner with the notebook on top of an old, battered, graffiti covered filing cabinet pouring through e-mails, checking the various up and coming bookings and checking invoices for surges in prices due to the rise in fuel costs and the new V.A.T level.

One set of lights are on, creating a dulled glow at the far end of the Kitchen with a steady pulse as the phosphorous gradually awakens in the tubes, almost in perfect harmony with the whirs and hums from the ever vigilant fridges. I could quite easily allow my eyes to close and be lulled into a sweet doze, almost hypnotised by the sound and light show being played out just for me.

Why am I so tired? I have a mild case of Insomnia at the moment which I put down to a few reasons- an over active mind at night, thoughts about work (menus, costings, planning the next year), home (T Minus 8 weeks before De Ronne mk 4 makes an entrance, finances, DIY projects), and the new direction in which I am going at the moment with the Writing (Going much better than I expected, and things are really starting to happen).

So, for the past week (ish), I have been hitting the pillow at around 3am which is not a great idea when you have Children and are meant to be a responsible adult getting up at the early hours to start the day. But I have had a lot of expulsions during the small hours of a positive cranial persuasion which, on balance, makes the whole four hours slumber per night worthwhile.

By far the best idea has set me with an even harder challenge though, and with that comes the need to rationalise whether it would be too big a project to take on at this time, or work on it and place other tasks on the back burner.

The idea is one that requires contacts of a high brow and influential nature, who in turn have contacts that can help realise its inception and aide me in bringing it into fruition.

It would involve various media sectors, Professionals of our industry from all over the country, Europe and beyond. It would need noted Practitioners, Peers and Associates to become part of the process which would set the whole standard required for what I believe to be a true historic moment in Catering (Wow, but true). And more importantly, it would need input from all Foodies...Be they critics, customers, growers, producers, suppliers, etcetera.

I used to say to my Students that always looked to do the minimal work with minimum effort, “If you set your standards and goals low, you will achieve them every time...But set them high and you have something worth trying for”. I am aiming high, maybe even punching above my weight, but I shall never know unless I give it some serious effort and a damn good crack at the whip. Wish me luck.

P.S. Never underestimate the uses of Kitchen utensils. Consider the humble wooden spoon. You can obviously utilise it to mix & stir, but if you cannot be bothered with cooking, simply write a number on it with a fat black pen and walk into your nearest Pub.

Oui Chef!

2011-01-05T16:06:00.000-08:00

Right-o!

This is a quickie, due to a few persons asking the same questions....

Do your underlings (yuck word, yet sexy and true!) ever use the terminology..."Oui Chef"?

Why?

Answer to question one....Yes, yes they do....pretty much all the time I bark.

Answer to question two......When you have a busy pass/kitchen with activities going on all around, Front of house chatting, phones ringing etc., it is a logical call to receive when calling tickets, actions, or demanding activity from your backbone that is your squad.....Oui Chef means directly to yours truly, the crew heard and is on it like a tramp on binned chips......Simple as that.

Next?! x

Lets make it a good one.

2010-12-31T15:10:00.000-08:00

I have the vocal strains of Abba chorusing "Happy New Year" running through my head as I prepare myself for a busy one man show in the kitchen at the top of the hill. Been a nice Head Chef and given all my kitchen Children the evening off! The evening specials sound inviting and wanton, with dashes of Culinary phwoar slipped in here & there to give some lucky guests foodgasms on this last evening of 2010.

Okay that's it! Last meal of the year has been sent, all that is left is the clear down and try to cheer up the miserable sod working behind the bar. But first, there is the matter of the main crux of this blog.

Looking back over the year I can't help but feel it went by a little too quickly for my liking. There has been many things going on both in my professional world and my family life that I haven't grasped all I wanted or hoped to, but as ever the optimist, I believe that all things come to those who reach far enough.

I am, however, still pleased with things I have grabbed with both hands........

I picked up a beautiful 1977 Mustang MKII Ghia, attained the employ as Kitchen Manager/Head Chef at the Pub on the hill in a part-time capacity, moved to a lovely house with the Family, watched as my youngest Daughter became a school pupil, proudly witnessed my Wife obtain her level two qualification in Child care, became a Dad-to-be again, became the owner of a cracking little Border Terrier (rescue dog) who has in turn helped our rather camp Dalmatian come out of his shell, bought a smart phone (!), created some fantastic new recipes and dishes, helped couples enjoy one of their most important days of their lives, gained recognition of different scales in a professional capacity, started up this blogspot, moved closer to creating my recipe book, made some good friends, and probably most important of all-become stronger in my relationship with my wonderful wife.

I also witnessed the break up of some dear friends, the loss of one exceptional man, the strength my Father showed with countless operations, the strength of my Mother with her unwavering support and compassion during his recoveries, the saddening news stories of deaths caused by natural disasters, war, famine and disease.

I feel lucky in life. Lucky to have so many around me whom love me as much as I do them. Money may be really tight (We're not the only ones) Days may slip by with an alarming speed, and I may well be fast approaching 37 (!!!), but I have health, love, respect and happiness and that is priceless in it's self.

Maybe it's because I have been washing up, cleaning down, scrubbing, sweeping and mopping in a silent kitchen and it is almost 11pm on the last day of 2010 that I am reflecting on the past in a slight melancholic prose, I don't know.

Maybe it's still that damned Mayan prediction mentioned briefly in a previous blog.

But I'm rather glad I have pondered on what has been, dreamt of what could have been because I can now see the new year as a chance to make it what I want it to be. And so should you.

So, to all of you still reading this, I thank you for taking the time out to let me prattle on like some NYE drunkard. I love you.

No, seriously, seriously. I mean it.

I f**&ing love you.

Happy New Year

J.P. De Ronne
AKA
Somersetchef.

P.S.
Abba has vanished from my mind, only to be replaced by the Proclaimers....If you can guess the correct song I shall mention you in my Blog! : )

2010-12-27T12:20:00.000-08:00

So.

That's it then.

Christmas is all but done and we are now hurtling towards the dawn of a new decade, giving us but one year according to an aged scripture found in a forgotten Mayan city.

I was going to set myself new goals to achieve over the next five years, but I don't know if that would be of use!

Christmas was a mish-mash affair this year. Work wise we ended up with heavy booking losses, due to the un-charterable frozen countryside which happened to coincide with our busiest week and weekend (of course).

Christmas Day was a roaring success. The Customers gave glowing and head swelling reviews and thanks which is what we aim to achieve, there would be nothing worse than ruining a special family day. And we continue to reap in good numbers starting at breakfast and running through till close of day, so at least we are now sustaining a healthy finish to the month!

Looking to the future, I have started sorting the new Evening menu that will run for 3 weeks to entice our happy clientèle to sample our sexier food. This also helps create more recipes for my book that is waiting patiently to come into fruition, slipping into pages unmarked by ink to expand what is already in place like an evolving jigsaw puzzle.

Evening Specials

To Start

Carparcio of Beef, timbale of Horseraddish Cous-cous, dressed with a Pea Shoot & Parmesan Salad. 5.75

Pan seared Dorset Scallops with Black Pudding and a honeyed Pea Puree. 5.95

Beetroot, Haricot, & Artichoke Salad with a Walnut & Orange Dressing. (V) (N) 4.95

For the Main Course

Bacon wrapped Breast of Free Range Chicken filled with Hogs Pudding, Pistachio & Coriander. Finished with a Thyme & Gin Butter Sauce. (N) 12.50

Tenderloin of Pork stuffed with Pear, Black Pudding & Candied Fig, with Bubble and Squeak and an Apple and Cinnamon Gravy. (G) 12.95

Pan Roasted Rump of Lamb, Smoked Bacon & Nutmeg Mash, and a Spiced Cherry & Port Sauce 15.95

Griddled Water Buffalo Steak steeped in Burrow Hill Cider& Mustard. Accompanied with a Stilton & Apple Frittata, Mushrooms, Pot Gravy and served with Buttered Peas & Baby Carrots. 16.25

Pan Roasted Fresh Sea Bream with wilted Spinach, Chestnut Mushrooms & Roasted Garlic. Served with a Saffron & Mussel stock and Beurre Noir. 13.95

Aubergine & Red Onion Parfait on a smoked Tomato & Basil Risotto Cake. Dressed with a Garlic & Red Pepper Coulis. Served with a Watercress & Olive Salad. (V) 10.25

(G) Contains Gluten (N) Contains Nuts (V) Suitable for Vegans

Still entertaining to the mind, warming to the heart and different enough to stand out in the crowd without going over board. Local produce as per usual play the important factor and it sits alongside the simple day classic menu to suit all pockets and taste buds.

I enjoy the creative aspect of menu writing, visualising the flavours and instinctively knowing whether it will work or not. Then releasing it on eager taste buds to get confirmation that all is good. I don't have anything against using pre-determined recipes found in books and online. They are obviously respected enough to be published...Hell, I want mine published and used by others. But I do prefer to get the grey matter revving, flicking through it's archives of listed ingredients and methods to present me with a challenge. Everybody should do it. It is, after all, what should be separating us from the nuclear time machine foodsters, or microwave technicians as they are more commonly known, as well as the very able home foodies.

"Cheffy Smear"

2010-12-17T07:18:00.000-08:00

Just received a comment from anonymous, a very popular name and one that is short-listed for our next born, who asks where I stand on the "Cheffy Smear" that seems to be adorned on plates up & down the country theses days.

This is one of those questions that does not allow a clear cut 'like' or 'dislike' response. But this is my opinion......

When I create a recipe or a dish, I have an idea of what I would like the finished product to look like be it on a particular shaped plate, in a bowl, on a slate, etcetera. There has always been the finalising with garnishes, from the humble mini salad garnish to paper thin tuilles, spun sugar and more.Garnishes help to lift the meal in so much that it is the 'Icing on the cake', the part that makes the whole in both presentation and complimentary flavour.

There seems to be three main Smears highly utilised these days:

The 'Tear drop' usually made by a spoon of puréed fruit or vegetable which is dolloped on the plate then run through with said spoon.

The 'Drezzle' (drizzle of dressing). This is using one or more oils and vinegar reductions either spooned or squeezed out of a plastic bottle to create dots, lines or random sweeps. With the increase in available pre-made flavoured reduction syrups and coloured oils this is a simple way of lifting any meal to a new class in appearance.

The 'Dry brush' which is anything from flavoured butters to chocolate that is pastry brushed onto the plate and allowed to dry.

Now, I like the tear drop as this can lift the plate dramatically in appearance and, because it is a good amount of puree, it is actually part of the final dish flavour-wise.

I also like the Drezzle, as long as it compliments the dish as these flavours can be quite strong.

I have used the Dry brush technique on a couple of occasions. These were with flavoured butter which was then coated with toasted and crushed Hazelnuts, and the other time sweetened butter which was dusted with crumbed Ameretti biscuits, orange zest and crushed gold leaf. These were integral to the dishes and, because of the coatings, served an edible purpose.

So, dear Anonymous, The answer is yes, as long as it adds value in both flavour and attractiveness to the dish, but no if it is done because it is the now factor rather than the wow factor. Looks like a puppy dog has scooched across the plate? Don't do it, it's sh*t.

2010-12-09T07:19:00.000-08:00

Christmas is coming and the Goose is getting fat,
Please put a penny in the old Man's hat.
If you haven't got a penny then a ha'penny will do,
If you haven't got a ha'penny then God bless you.

Or.....

Christmas is on Telly and the Shops are getting rich,
Snow fall through December, Gas price rising, what a Bitch.
Supermarkets want your pounds, though your last few pence will do,
If you have no money left they'll take your credit cards too.

Yay! It's Chhrrrrissstmaaaaasssss! as Mr Holder still seems to be shouting in shops, on your radio, even on the TV. I do love this time of year. Love it as a Family man, and love it as a Chef.

In my capacity of a professional Catering Man, the enjoyment of writing menus, recipes, talking to local suppliers, creating marketing, posters, updating the businesses facebook etc is immense. Sounds sad and frankly boring, but It is a grand event that requires a lot of meticulous planning and effort to achieve what you aim to be the best in your area, especially when you finally get to see your competition's menus printed in the local papers and 'Visitor' magazine.

The whole team enjoy this period too. I have three cracking people that are the backbone of my kitchen, all just attained their level two qualification, and are like excited sponges. They love new recipes and menus as this gives them new practices and methods to try, new dishes to execute exactingly and consistently, and most important of all their chance to add input and thoughts which broaden their understanding.

To create these dishes and place the marketing and advertising in place is the point where you then watch intently on the diary, e-mails and listen to customers discussing the food on offer, to see if you truly have made a tempting feast or just offered something that everyone else has. If it is the case of the latter, dear chefs, then all you have possibly going in your favour is the price.

One thing I have noticed this year, is that belts have definitely been tightened out there. We offer two Christmas menus. One is called Simply Christmas, which is a more traditional two course meal for £15, the other is called Indulgence, which is a sexier (yes, it is a good word) three course affair for £25.

We have actually gained more bookings this year then the previous two, which is mainly down to the hard work of the team raising a good name for the Pub as well as repeat business from last year and those bookings passing on their experiences. We have in fact got at least one big booking from now until Christmas each lunch time and at least two for each evening. There is, however, more two course menus booked than the very popular last year, three course fayre. Talking to some of the parties hosts, this is mainly due to the fact that most people are finding it very hard to spend money this time, especially with the impending tax rise in the new year, the increase in utility costs, fuel costs and, of course, the need to ensure that there is enough money available to buy family and friends the gifts they really want.

With the Menus, there is a big difference in price, but then there is a lot more going on with each dish in the Indulgence menu and well worth the money. The most important factor in the business during this current 'Economic Climate' is that you need to cater for a range of peoples budgets. There are people out there that can happily afford the very best of everything, but there is also those that have less but still want a wonderful dining experience. The Simply menu gives that opportunity, as it is still good, local and flavoursome food, which is why we have ended up with a diary that will make other businesses envious and avidly waiting for their phone to ring.

Also, we have been flexible. I love my menus. They are perfectly balanced from start to finish, but I have been more than happy to make them tailored to suit the individual as well as parties. And that is part way to what helps fill the book. Adaptability and good old fashioned Hospitality.

Imitating Scotland is brave

2010-12-09T05:52:00.000-08:00

Okay.

I know that we haven't got through Christmas, and that this is a bizarre post to write at this point in time. But, here in the kitchen in the Pub on top of the hill we are already being 'Badgered' for the next social event of the year........Burn's Night.

What is strange about this is not the timeframe we are facing, (Chefs have already sewn up Christmas and New Year so we are going onto the next special meal), but the fact that in a small hamlet in Somerset, people are obsessed with the Scottish tradition of eating non fancy food to celebrate a poet who often wrote with a heavy brogue back in the 17oo's.

Celebrated on 25 January the format of Burns supper starts with a general welcome and announcements, followed with the Selkirk grace. After the grace, comes the Haggis which is paraded out with a piper playing followed by Burns' famous "Adress to the Haggis" which is read and the haggis cut open.
The event usually allows for people to start eating just after the haggis has been presented. This is when the reading called the "immortal memory", an overview of Burns' life and work, is given; the event usually concludes with the singing of "Auld Lang Syne"

The event is an enjoyable one with a lot of effort put in. The weird thing is though, it is far more popular than our Saint Georges day.

Anyway, this is not a history blog, so back to the food.

Whenever we create menus, recipes etc, the most important factors for me are:

1) it has to be amazing....obviously.
2) if it is a regional dish or menu, i.e. Curry, French etc, then it must be as authentic as possible.
3) It has to be high quality and good value for money.

So, I am then tasked with the job of finding dishes that will appeal to all potential Diners, expand on the origional supper to make it an evening worthy of a restaurant experience yet still true to it's roots, and most importantly ensure it is authentic!

I think I have created a good menu utilising some very traditional Scottish dishes, given them a boost with some technical culinary know how and still managed to maintain the feel for Mr. Rabbie Burn's special evening......

Down here......in Somerset.
(we are closer to Paris than Edinburgh, true fact!) Revolution night anyone????

Bill of Fare

Scotch Broth with Bannock

Potato & Leek Soup with Bannock (Vegan)

Albroath Toasties

*******************************************

A Wee Dram to Celebrate

*******************************************

Haggis, Bashed Neeps, Champit Tatties & Whiskey Gravy

Vegetarian Haggis, Bashed Neeps, Champit Tatties & Whiskey Gravy

Salmon Balmoral, Colcannon Cakes, Soft Poached Egg & Lavender & Sage oil

********************************************

Caledonian Cream

Tipsy Laird

Edinburgh Fog

Round and Round and Back again

2010-09-27T12:45:00.001-07:00

It is now confirmed. We are on the move.

Again.

Days off mean packing boxes, freecycling, charity donating and recycle centre....ing items we no longer use or need. The house we currently live in is becoming more and more like a warehouse rather than the home we have enjoyed for more than four years now. Even the children are helping fill boxes, and there is an element of excitement buzzing around.

The destination village is Chilthorne Domer, a rather unknown village even by the local townsfolk, yet just 3 miles away from Yeovil itself. It is quintessentially British in appearance, a main street with a council/housing association area at the top end, houses of varying size down through, and surrounded by green belt farm land. There is a Primary school, church, village hall, club house and children’s play park. The local Post Office and Stores closed years ago and was converted into a residential property, which a lot of rural ones have done over the last decade.

The Village also has a Public House, The Carpenters Arms or ‘The Chippies’ as it is locally regarded, which is a typical style Village pub, especially lately as it has been closed down for a while. Sadly, this is the same throughout the UK, with an average of four Pubs boarding up every week. It can be blamed on many things, from the Public Smoking Ban, to the price of Alcohol in Supermarkets, to the recession hitting average spend families hard, to bad Pub Company support and high Tie related Charges. It can also be linked to the fact that so many people give running a pub ‘a go’ with the belief that there is no need for prior knowledge or training in the industry, or even hardened industry professionals flourished with previous success believing they have the secret to making anywhere work......

And so to the main hub of this blog.

The move to Chilthorne is currently exciting for the rest of the family as inevitably it has the new surroundings to be explored, new people to meet and the house itself is set out better than the one we are currently in. That and the fact Nana and Poppy live four doors down.

And, yes, I am excited as well. But I also have another feeling bubbling up inside which I have not been able to place yet. I am labelling it Nostalgia with a question mark for now. I think that is what it is.

I moved over to England in the heady days of 1981, a mere scrap of a five and a half year old with my older Brother, Mum and Dad. We moved to Chilthorne Domer after a brief spell of living with my Grandparents in Yeovil Marsh and I can still remember the excitement of exploring the empty shell that was to become our home. I lived and breathed the village life there, up until the age of 21 when I decided to spread my wings and move to the next village on.

Back in those early years of my life, the Carpenters Arms was a community pub which the villagers used to frequent often, as well as diners from further afield. It had a reputation for being a well run establishment with good food and great service. The Restaurant used to be booked to capacity at weekends, at least a fortnight in advance. My Dad worked there as the Restaurant Manager who had a Continental flair that made customers want to come back, his professional approach that was second to none (extremely uncommon in Waiters service in Public houses), and his willingness to go the extra mile, all of which complimented the running of this successful Pub. I worked there myself, carving out my first tentative step in the trade as a kitchen gopher, then assistant cook, often doing it by myself (at the age of 15, and for the princely sum of £1 per hour) I left before I turned 16, only to return when I was 22/23 and worked for different owners then as assistant Chef, before taking the role of Head Chef when the position arose, and earning my first few awards and recognitions. It was a popular place again, with bookings guaranteed all weekend as well as the latter end of the week.

However.......

Every time (since the mid eighties) a new couple took over, things started off well, with food given an overhaul, locals welcomed and befriended with open arms, and the talk of the pub being the heart of the community.

Lovely.

As time wore on, cracks would start to appear in the landlords and landladies smiles. Friendships would become strained, sometimes resulting in a tirade of insults and threats of boycotting the business or being told their company was not welcome. The locals that visited became fewer as the months ticked by. Eventually, business would dry up and the Couple would vacate leaving room for the next ones........who went through the same.

Then the next ones.

And the next ones.

And the next ones........

The reasons are clear when you look at it reflectively. It wasn’t necessarily the licensees themselves, although it is never a great idea to think yourself immune in behaviour towards customers and tell them to (expletive deleted) off if they don’t like it, get drunk regularly and row with their partner in the bar, nor harangue friends when they are eating and do nothing when they have a complaint regarding food or service (even forged close friends are still customers). It was the turn in the trade. Pub companies were on the rise, as were house prices, tax brackets, and fat cats wallets. The Pub companies reached a stage than rather having Managers running the public houses for them and receiving the profits, they turned more acquisitioned sites over to leasehold Tenants to run as their own business.

With a few provisos.

The Tenants must buy the alcohol and soft drinks from the company at high cost.

The Tenants must declare the profit made on a pre-agreed date at regular occasions.

The Tenants must expect an increase in rent/other charges, at regular intervals.

This ensured that the companies received a healthy wedge of income from someone else’s labour, leaving a small amount for the business owners to glance at before they had to more than likely spend it on fixing something or replacing something within the Pub.

If you worked in the same place you lived 24/7 for all the hours God sends, handle problems and issues that must be dealt with ‘a la minuite’, constantly smile and be jovial, pay for advertising & maintenance, stay on top of everything that is affected by Health & Safety, COSHH, EHO, Fire Safety, Public Safety & Liability, call yourself your own boss yet answer to your landlord, you too would be a little edgy, disillusioned and bitter after a while. These people who came and went certainly were.

It is hard these days making a balance of local Pub and favourably profitable business work. In the Western Gazette last week there was a feature about the Carpenters Arms that inspired me enough to write this episode. Over the last few years my dear Father has often reminisced about the good old days at the Chippies, and of the times we worked together, helping make the place a successful business. He often throws the old “It would be great if we could take it over, it would be amazing!”

Others have, in the past, asked me if I would ever consider taking that pub on.

My reply has always been consistent. I would only ever consider it if it was a freehold. Lock, stock, and two smoking barrels my own. There are a lot of negatives about that Pub that raises issues and concerns in my mind. Firstly, there is the interior. Dull and dark, very little space to accept customers in due to the sheer size and position of the bar and no scope to build extensions without losing valuable car parking space. With that, the outside is limited, nestled between a main road and a country lane, gardens belonging to Bungalows at the edge of the village, and a field. The car park is capable of taking approximately twenty cars with no overspill available. There is no scope to purchase land from the local farmer as this is one of his main fields for raising his cattle. It has also been in my opinion that in order to make it successful, the only other option in making a good return would be by utilising the upstairs space in some way for the business, be it extra seating, or the option of letting rooms.

I referred earlier to the reason why public houses owned by Companies are difficult for leaseholders to obtain a fair profit for themselves, but the way it has been overcome in some cases is the rise in food sales. By turning the Village Hub into a dining room for Gastro food and alienating the regular drinkers, some places have managed to get a healthy return that helps keep them in business comfortably, rather than maintaining a watering hole for locals, or a good mix of both. But when the diners fade out, there is no other steady income that would normally be gained through the ousted Villagers, and inevitably, the leaseholders still end up on the losing side.

Well, it seems that the Pub has been sold Freehold (result) which could mean that this quaint Village business could have its potential fully realised. The article in the Western Gazette explains how the new owners, Carol Davenport (a very well proven business veteran in this trade) and Lee Crawford (who amid other places, managed the difficult Greyhound Pub in Yeovil, and the Gardens nightclub) have bought it in a state of disrepair and sever damage, and are putting a lot of money into it to breathe new life and bring it up to date while maintaining its key charm. It seems that the business couple are aiming to utilise it as a local Pub where people feel welcomed and able to drink in a sociable environment, without fear that it’s all about the Gastro meals offered at fourteen pounds plus per head. On the contrary, good old style pub grub is the aim, which again gives a picture of a more traditional House. The key quote in the paper for me is from Carol saying that, “A lot of Village Pubs are closing and dying, but it is important for a village to have a Pub. It helps keep the Community together”. And I fully concur.

However.......

Does this make a successful business these days? Is there enough income to be had on an investment within a “local Pub for local people”? Is there still the ability to run a Public House with the romantic ideals of the good old days and make it happen in the now? I certainly hope so. Not only have Ms Davenport and Mr Crawford put a lot of blood, sweat, tears and cash into this historically mentioned and grade listed building, they have also dared to believe in the aged traditions of village community life being an important factor within villages today. And they certainly know how to make a business work. They have a collective expanse of understanding of this fickle trade most people could only hope for. My family and I will be supporting both their efforts and business in a locals capacity, and also myself with keen interest in the ideology of this venture and as to whether it is still a viable option these days without all the tables being set for food guide rated, Restaurant style food, just as soon as we have moved in and sorted the house as to how we want it.

Now, where is the packing tape gone?............

P.S. To the member of staff who said “You can’t beat a good egg”, you are daft, explain how you make an omelette....

You don't have to be mad........

2010-09-17T08:48:00.000-07:00

It's 14:52 on a Sunny, if chilly Friday in September. Lunch service has been good so far, at least 50 peeps braved the cold to eat Al Fresco amongst the beautiful setting of Ham Hill. The service has been adequately paced, no customers demanding timescales etc, so on the whole, all seems calm.......Except for my second in command. Not sure if it is down to the change of weather, too much heat from the griddle and grill, or he has had something and not passed around (skittles i would speculate), but he is bouncing about shouting out bizarre phrases and sentences like his soul depends on it! Maybe he needs a lie down.......

.............Now it's 15:13, the Sous Chef has now maintained decorum for the past 4 minutes and there is a calmer atmosphere descending within the kitchen. I have had the luck and good fortune to have the last two days with my family, so have been away from 'Satans fridge' for at least 48 hours. Things have been relatively calm at home, except for the usual that any family endures/experiences (depending on your view). Obviously, there is the school run first thing in the morning. The mad dash to get the children up, breakfasted, dressed, teeth cleaned, shoes put on, hair brushed/tied/plaited/braided, hair un-plaited/tied/braided, re-tied/plaited/braided, books found and placed in book bags, lunch boxes packed in bags, out the door and to the car.....Back out the car and back through the door to get something that was inevitably forgotten. Back out the door, in the car and to the school. All the while still trying to wake myself up as I am the worst morning person in the world.Then walking the dogs (which is a more enjoyable experience).

The next part of the day is a rare moment when my wife and myself get to sit together for ten minutes and catch up on each others lives over a cup of coffee and tea. We then plan the day ahead, find out who is doing what, what plans each other already have pencilled in for the day and find out when we will get to sit together next. Our lives are more hectic than usual as we have recently become pregnant with our fourth child and we are quite possibly moving house in the next month. Family life can be very difficult when you are not a major part of it through work commitments. My working week normally consists of 5 days a week starting at 9 in the morning and ending at between 10 and 11 at night. This is quite the norm in the trade, as there is always lots to do, organise, create and complete from one week to the next. How the Chefs in this world do it constantly is a testament to their passion and resolve. How their spouses cope is testament to their love and strength. No doubt there are other professionals that do the same and more...I can immediately think of the armed services, emergency services, and oil riggers, fishermen and international rock stars to name but a few, but I can only comment on life through this trade.

I do find things hard at times trying to prioritise what is more important at a time when both the job and your family need you. It is an impossible tug of war at times, and can leave you feeling useless, neglectful and in the wrong. There is the side when you want to be the family man /woman you always envisioned being, but fail to be able to because of your professional work ethics demand you see your shift through. Then there are times you feel you are not showing enough commitment to your career that you chose to do because you need to be there for your family. So recently, I decided to find a way that I can have my cake and eat it too. That is by ensuring the kitchen I run at the moment can run well without me through the dedication, passion and ability of my staff, enabling me to change my role slightly and reducing my hours considerably, to give my family and me time together that we deserve. It is all about compromise and finding a way to realise the true importance in your life. Work to live, do not live to work.

Okay, onto the first recipe to be featured on this site.

I created this dish for a bespoke occasion at the pub and was so well received it ended up being featured on one of our evening menus. The aroma alone caused the mouth to water with the expectation of what was to come. The ingredients are easy enough to get hold of. I will always recommend using local sellers, especially farm shops, butchers and even local door to door vegetable sellers if they still exist in your area. However, I am not a chef that insists you get everything from far off places. As long as you can talk to the seller and they can give you strong knowledge on their produce, you shouldn't go far wrong. Even supermarket counters are better these days, thanks to the trend of local produce and real professionals working them.

This recipe will serve four good size cakes, more than ample for one per person, main meal wise.

Smoked Haddock & Cray tail Cakes

Ingredients
500g Peeled and diced Potatoes
Juice of 1/2 Lemon
250g Natural Smoked Haddock fillet, skinned and diced 1inch
150g Cooked Cray tails (if unable to locate, then Tiger or King Prawns are a fair substitute)
2 Dessertspoons of Baby (Surphine) Capers
2 Dessertspoons chopped fresh Dill
Flaked Sea Salt & Cracked Black Pepper
Sieved Plain Flour to bind and coat.

The Method

Boil the potatoes in lightly salted water until soft enough to mash.
Strain and place into a bowl with the Lemon Juice, and mash till smooth.
Add the Haddock (Raw), Cray tails or Prawns (Cooked) and mix in.
Add the Capers and Dill and fold in until evenly distributed throughout the mix
Add the Seasoning a little at a time, tasting as you go (bear in mind the Lemon and Dill is already adding flavour and depth to the mix, therefore there is no need to add lots of Salt).
Add flour a little at a time until you get a smooth, yet firm consistency. Allow to cool in fridge, covered for 1 hour.
Once ready, split between 4 (approx 225g each) and roll into balls, then flatten to create a cake about 1 1/2 to 2 inch tall. Coat with Flour. Heat a pan on the stove, and add oil (either sunflower or rapeseed is best). Once hot, add the cakes, cooking for around 2 minutes, turning and cooking for another two minutes. Remove from pan and onto a metal tray. Place in the top shelf of a pre-heated oven (gas mark 4, 200 degrees C and cook for approximately 16-20 minutes.
Serve with a mixed leaf and spring onion salad, or with a poached egg on top and simple white sauce with mustard (bechamel).

If you give this a go, let me know how you get on by posting a comment, or indeed if you have any questions or comments regarding this blog, leave a message.

Speak again soon,

JP

P.S. Congratulations to a colleague who has at last finished writing his book on herbs.....It's about Thyme.!