Life...The Eternal...

Odisha - 01 : The Sun Temple at Konark

2018-01-11T16:08:00.000+05:30

Going to a place in India with rich historical heritage is always a pleasure. Odisha (formerly, Orissa) is one such state. Puri, Konark, Raghurajpur, Pipili, Udayagiri / Khandagiri, Dhauligiri, & of course Bhubaneshwar itself are fascinating. Here are few pictures from this mesmerizing experience I had.

Few pictures from the Sun Temple at Konark. A breathtakingly beautiful temple, with exquisite carvings, it is testimony to the artistic and geometric genius of the time. It is painful to see that the sanctum sanctorum, in which the Sun God was worshipped, is in a dilapidated condition, thanks to some adventurism by the colonial masters. The Sun Temple leaves one wondering, if it can still be so mesmerizing in this condition, how much more exceptionally beautiful it could have been, if it were in good condition? The amorous figures capture the human desires in fine details. The temple is carved in 3 stages - the bottom one has animal figures such as elephants, the middle one has amorous figures, & at the top is the Sun Temple. These stages depict different stages of man - childhood (when we will be playing with toys & animal figurines), youth (when we are driven by desires), & old age (when we turn toward higher spiritual aspirations).

The Sun dial leaves us spellbound. The intricacies with which it has been envisioned, designed, & the precision with which time can be measured to this day (as demonstrated by a guide), leaves us wondering if this could have indeed be done by man? As with any historical place, it is a good idea to do some reading & research over the net while going to Konark. This helps us understand & appreciate the nuances in its details.

The Rail Museum - Mysore (04)

2014-08-04T12:31:00.000+05:30

There is the Maharani's saloon on display. This was used by the Maharani of Mysore kingdom. It has been very well preserved and maintained. It was overwhelming to see that the Maharaja had bought a Railway saloon for his queen :-) There is also the Maharaja's quarters in the Maharani's saloon.

The saloon was built by Hurst & Nelson in 1899 & was commissioned within Mysore State Railways. Weighing 22.5 tonnes, it cost INR 29508.

In the saloon, there's kitchen, store room with some vessels (yes, even to this day), the cooks' resting place, toilets, etc.

Toilet & washing sink for the queen :-) Notice the overhead flush with the lever.

Kitchen, with the stone grinder...

Cooking used to be done here below...

Vessels used for storing food items & cooking.

Emblem of Mysore kingdom on the saloon.

On the whole, the Rail Museum is a MUST VISIT. Well maintained, clean, & a nice place to spend a couple of hours. This is a favorite place for my son, & we visit whenever he goes to Mysore for holidays. Those interested in collecting few souvenirs can do so at the entrance to the Museum. There are few models on display, books, etc. In addition to the Mysore Palace, Chamundi Hills, and other must see places, Rail Museum is another that can be added to the list.

The Rail Museum - Mysore (03)

2014-08-04T12:01:00.002+05:30

Tank engine no. TS 37338 with some brief history about it.

A meter gauge diesel engine.

An Austin car converted into a track inspection car. This was used by Railway officials to inspect tracks.

The Telco Steam Engine from Southern Railway.

There is a cute toy train within the Rail Museum. We can buy separate tickets for the ride, which costs about INR 5 for children & INR 10 for adults. The toy train takes kids on ride for 2 rounds, through an artificial tunnel en-route.

The crane & guard wagon...

The Rail Museum - Mysore (02)

2014-01-22T16:11:00.000+05:30

The ES 506 Engine with coach.

Sectional view of horizontal locomotive boiler.

Inspection car & its inside...

Tank Engine No. 37338 and the Mysore State Railway Narrow Gauge Coach...

The Rail Museum - Mysore (01)

2014-01-22T14:34:00.000+05:30

Mysore, the Heritage City of Karnataka, ruled by the erstwhile Wodeyars is home to many places to visit, which is of interest to many tourists from world over. Not just in Mysore city, but there are many places to visit around as well. One such place in the city is Rail Museum, established by the Union Rail Ministry.

Entrance to the museum is from the gate opposite CFTRI. The museum abuts the Mysore Railway Station, but, visitors have to take a round about by taking the KRS road, & a few hundred meters on the KRS road, on the left is CFTRI. Bang opposite CFTRI is the museum entrance. As we enter the museum, on the right is the ticket counter, which works out of a goods bogie.

Entrance fee is very minimal & it is free for kids till the age of 5 or 6. Visitors have to pay an extra INR 10 or so for using cameras & another INR 15 per adult for taking ride on the toy train. The layout plan of the museum is on the right as you enter.

Displayed on the left is the NWR (North Western Railway) 119E steam engine.

As we walk through the NWR 119E, on a small platform are displayed the many models of engines that have ferried millions of passengers across the length & breadth of the country. We can also find photos of some of the old stations, bridges, & commemmorative stamps issued on Indian Railways.

Gandhiji's visit to Bellary on 1st October 1921 is captured on this granite below.

Regional Museum of Natural History - Mysore

2013-12-16T19:04:00.001+05:30

In general, museums have fascinated me since my younger days. I try not to lose an opportunity to visit a museum. I'm trying to inculcate this virtue in my 5 year old boy, who asks lots of questions. So, few days ago, i took him to the Regional Museum of Natural History (RMNH), near Siddhartha Nagar, Mysore. It is about 6 - 7 Km from the Subarban bus stand, and quite close to Mysore Zoo. It is not easy to locate because it is housed amidst residential area. However, just as we approach from the bus stand, there is a huge green board on the left with direction to the museum, which is on the right. Also, another way to know we're close by is when we come across Mysore Mother Dairy, which also happens to be on the left side of the road. The approach road to the museum is a very narrow one, & i did not at first believe that the road would actually take us to such a important place. In fact, i felt that the museum may have been shifted elsewhere, & the board may not have been removed. This is because, around the museum we'll find many residential homes, & to think that the place could've been housed here is unfathomable.

This was started in 1995 under the Union Ministry of Environment and Forests. The RMNH is one of the 5 or 6 in the country, & i learned that this is the one for Southern region. Entrance to the museum is free, & it is open between 10 am & 5 pm, Monday to Saturday. Except National holidays and Government holidays, the museum is open to public.

There are 3 centers here: biological diversity, life through the ages, & discovery center. The bio diversity center has display of some of the species found in Western Ghats and other biological hotspots.

Stuffed models of some of the commonly found species can be found in this section of the museum. The Giant Malabar Squirrel, Tiger, Striped Hyena, & the Fox are below.

Stuffed models of Sloth Bear, Leopard, Wild Dog (Dhole).

Some of the species of fauna from the ocean are illustrated. In some of these illustrations are also indicated, the approximate depth from the surface, at which these species typically exist.

Few land animals' models on display.

Pictorial representations of how we could play our part to protect the environment...

Some of the birds & butterflies that can be found in a bio-diversity hotspot like the Western Ghats.

Tree as a eco-system...

In the section - Life through the ages, origin of various species such as dinosaurs, birds, extinction of dinosaurs, evolution of man, etc., are illustrated.

Dinosaurs' sub species illustrated below.

Different theories of how dinosaurs became extinct are shown here.

Origin of birds...

Evolution of man, and the various aspects of man's predecessors...their lifestyle, eating habits, dwelling, hunting skills, food gathering practices, etc., are explained here.

Evolution of life on earth...hows, whats, and whens...

The discovery center houses a few models of the parts of human body, such as - eyes, ears, brain, heart, reproductive system, digestive system, respiratory system, nervous system, etc.

The skull and jaw bones, along with leg bones of a elephant.

On the whole, the museum is mediocre. Nothing world-class about it. Certainly not something breathtaking, which is what i thought it would be, considering that it is a Museum of Natural History. At the least, a museum of this kind should trigger the thought process of children to seek knowledge and understanding of the science behind all this. Unfortunately, it did not inspire me. While i did try to explain to my 5 year old boy the various aspects on display here, it is not something that he may really enjoy coming back to, when he grows up and starts studying all this. The ambience is not lively, on the contrary, it is dull, boring, & lacks the motivation to seek what's next? Perhaps, the responsible personnel in the Government should consider all these and more factors when designing and institutionalizing such a important learning center.

There is also a small movie hall at the entrance, where a short film is played for about 30 min. While i did not watch it, the experience of the museum itself left much to be desired; hence, not certain of the short movie or the quality of it...

On the whole, perhaps one could give the RMNH a visit and spend a couple of hours there. If you're looking at visiting once in a while to experience it, then there is still a very long way to go...

Visit to Janapada Loka

2013-12-04T18:56:00.001+05:30

Driving on the Bangalore - Mysore "highway" (State Highway 17) is not really a pleasurable experience anymore. What with so many towns en-route & the never ending speed breakers. If you think you just picked speed and could cruise blissfully, there is a fully loaded cart coming your way from the wrong side, or a speed breaker, or somebody crossing the road, or passing through a town...if that's not enough, the traffic would be high & hence getting stuck in Ramanagar, Channapatna, or, Mandya. So, you end up feeling that it is a slightly better experience than driving on Bangalore roads. Other than that, it's not really exhilerating driving to Mysore.

Any way, having bought the new Maruti Suzuki Ertiga, i deliberated with my family where we could go together? Since none of us had seen Jaanapada Loka (In Kannada: Jaanapada = Folk, Loka = World), we decided to spend time there, have food in the adjoining Kamath Lokaruchi, & come back by evening. Inquiry with our neighbors revealed that it is a beautiful place & quite engaging for kids, young, & the old, and we could comfortably spend about 4 - 5 hours there. Jaanapada Loka is the place where we get to see some of the folk culture from Karnataka and the various peoples that make up the diaspora of the State of Karnataka. This is just outside Ramanagar district (about 5 - 6 Km) en-route to Mysore on the Bangalore - Mysore highway.

We can also see the normal village atmosphere here, beautifully created with creations of various people we can come across in a village, with the typical rural Karnataka ambience. Entrance fee is very nominal & it is free for kids up to the age 5 (i remember so). A good thing to do is to start early & be at Kamath Lokaruchi by 9 am so that you can enjoy hearty buffet breakfast. Then, you can visit Jaanapada Loka for a good 2.5 - 3 hours, come back again for lunch by 12.30 pm (very often it gets crowded by 1 pm right up to 2.30 or 3 pm), & then go back again to explore anything left, before you decide to head home.

This is the entrance to Jaanapada Loka.

Often, we come across beautifully decorated cows in colorful garments and accessories at the entrance.

As we enter, on either side we see life size creation of folk artists welcoming the guests.

Inside Lokamatha Mandir are displayed the various utensils, tools, different types of graneries and various other accessories of daily use in the rural Karnataka.

This is the entrance to the Heritage Village that has been created within Jaanapada Loka.

Inside Lokamahal we can find many toys and dolls (mostly hand made using hand tools) on display. Also, we can find artefacts commonly used in folk art.

In the passage all around Chitra Kuteera (at the periphery), we see pictures of the many rural communities and tribes from Karnataka. Usually, there will be a guide to help explain the various communities, their culture, and practices.

Model of the Mysore Palace (Amba Vilas Palace), and some of the dolls on display during Navaraatri (Nava = nine, Raatri = night).

Inside the heritage village, a village woman is making flour from rice, jowar or wheat.

A village couple extracting oil from seeds.

Milk for the house & for others...a typical cow shed.

Woman weaving basket made of bamboo fibre...for a living and own use...

Preparing to feed the family by grinding flour amidst casual talk...in the front porch of their house...

Quenching the thirst of family by drawing water from a nearby well.

"Bungalows" in the hinterlands of Karnataka...These homes, though small, are quite well equipped for a simple, contented life. It consists of a small verandah, bathroom, living cum dining, and kitchen. The roof is usually thatched, & the walls are made of a mix of clay and limestone. Very often, cows and sheep can be found within the premises, feeding leisurely...

Folk artists performing a form of dance cum music called Beesu Kamsaale.

Working hard to quench the Nation's hunger...a farmer couple in the fields...

Old cannon on display...approximate date of the cannon - AD 1721

A Ratha (car) used very commonly in most parts of the country...especially in the temples where Car festival is conducted every year...The Car festival draws thousands of believers from across the country. The Car below, was employed in the Someshwara Temple of Halasooru (Ulsoor), Bangalore. It is widely believed, those who participate in pulling the Car with the presiding deity of the temple seated inside the car, their sins are washed away. There is huge scramble among the devotees to lay their hands on the rope to pull the Car, even for just a few feet...Usually, the devotees will be shouting the Lord's names, tremendous energy to have a glimpse of the Lord, & to pull the Car. It is a spectacle to behold, and a once in a lifetime opportunity. Sometimes, things can go a little haywire, resulting in stampede, and death as well.

Details of the above car on display...

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (11)

2013-01-25T19:45:00.000+05:30

As we concluded our most memorable visit of Hampi, the eeriness that followed the destruction & siege of Hampi still lingers in my mind...like a collage...the empty sanctums, destroyed temples, the lotus mahal with the royal women enjoying a lovely evening breeze, the many mantapas destroyed...the empty bazaars...those beautifully carved pillars standing like mute witnesses...

What could have really happened to the Capital of this great Vijayanagar kingdom in the aftermath of the devastating war of Talikota is truly unfathomable...For a moment, i let loose my emotions & briefly asked myself - suppose the structures of Hampi had life and mind of their own, & the siege and destruction was taking place, what would these human creations of divine stature be going through? What would the pillars of Vitthala temple be crying as the destruction happened? What would the temples be saying without their masters within? I imagined for a moment, how magnificent and grand would the divine couple, Lakshmi - Narasimha have been, had they remained in their pristine beauty? It is no wonder that Hampi remained a haunted place for many centuries after the siege. It is only during the British that the ruins began to be discovered & real archaeological restoration efforts were begun, finally culminating in the title of the much deserved and long awaited "WORLD HERITAGE SITE" tag long after India attained independence. The ruins still haunt me...for, every stone, every piece of art & architecture, every pillar, has a story, a narrative behind it. While it may not be possible to get a guide who can explain the grandeur to give a real life experience of Hampi, a true enthusiast will not be disappointed if he / she is truly honest to oneself.

As i reminisced on the experience of Hampi, i realized that the sun had set long ago on the glorious Vijayanagar empire. I let out a deep breath; with a heavy heart and bulged eyes, i silently thanked all those who had taken incalculable pains to restore Hampi to the present state, so we can soak in her magnificence...& for those few serious enthusiasts, to bask in the glorious historical past...

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (10)

2013-01-25T18:31:00.000+05:30

In front of the main sanctum is the hall, which stands testimony to the beautiful Vijayanagar architecture. Whereas the inner ones are rather simple, those facing the courtyard are elaborate.

The naama & Chakra of Lord Vishnu on one of the pillars.

At the southeast of the temple complex is the divine marriage hall (Kalyaana Mantapa), where the divine wedding of Rama & Sita was celebrated. On the pillars of the marriage hall have been sculpted fantastic Yali images.

View from inside the sanctum of the temple.

The empty sanctum of the presiding Goddess...

This is the divine marriage hall (kalyaana mantapa)...

The Pattabhirama temple leaves the avid visitor with a feeling of eeriness because of not many visitors. Amidst all the ruins of Hampi, i felt that the Pattabhrama temple is the one which stands like a huge monolith, a gargantuan character, which has remained witness to the siege of Hampi and shedding silent tears reminiscing the glorious past. Although the youngest among the three, the other two being the Virupaksha temple & the Vitthala temple, i deeply felt within myself that the Pattabhrama temple stands like the big brother keeping a close watch on the other two, with deep compassion, tenderness, & authority.

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (09)

2013-01-25T18:00:00.000+05:30

The Pattabhirama temple is a huge complex, & perhaps the largest among all in Hampi. When we entered the temple complex, the other temple which came to my mind in terms of its mammoth complex is that of Brihadeeshwara temple at Tanjore, built by the Cholas. Similar to other temples in Hampi, the Pattabhirama temple was also a nodal point of the township called Varadadevi Ammana Pette. Varadadevi was the queen of the Tuluva dynasty king Achyuta Raya. Unlike other major temples of Hampi, visitors hardly visit this magnificent temple. This is because it is not located in the town of Hampi, but on the outskirts of it. Most of the guides barely mention about the temple, & only the ones who are real enthusiasts and truly interested take that extra effort to this "must visit" temple. We met Sreedhar, the caretaker of the temple complex who is employed with the Archaeology department. He said, had the Deity, Lord Pattabhirama, not been destroyed in the aftermath of Talikota, it could well have been one of the most famous pilgrimage centers in the South. We could not appreciate his words until we experienced the massive temple complex ourselves.

The massive sanctum sanctorum where Lord Pattabhirama was worshipped...

Together with the Virupaksha and Vitthala temples, the Pattabhirama temple forms the third of the large temple complexes of Hampi and embodies the prolific temple-building ventures of the Vijayanagara rulers. The presiding deity of the Pattabhirama temple is Lord Rama. The splendid architecture of the temple can be appreciated as we enter the complex. The temple complex is confined within a large rectangular enclosure. The sanctum sanctorum with its axial mantapas is situated at the center of the courtyard. A pillared colonnade runs along the inside of the wall round the courtyard.

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (08)

2013-01-25T15:51:00.000+05:30

The Hazara Rama temple is one place which requires a lot of time to appreciate the intricacies of the stories narrated. Although we spent about an hour or so, it is grossly insufficient to do justice. I plan to dedicate at least a day entirely to Hazara Rama temple to follow the beautiful stories narrated with such exquisite art & architecture, apart from the history associated with this magnificent temple. The artisans, sculptors, & architects have left intricate architecture on every inch of the temple looking at which I wonder if human beings can really create such divinity in physical form.

In the below carving, Sita is handing over her finger ring to Hanuman to present it to Rama as evidence of having met her and convey the message of her well being.

Baala Krishna (in Sanskrit, Baala = child)...

As we left the Hazara Rama temple complex, a deep sense of incompleteness gripped me...a sense of not having spent sufficient time at the temple and absorbed all that it had to offer into myself...i just told the temple - will be back my friend...will take all that you have to offer me...

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (07)

2013-01-25T15:07:00.001+05:30

The Hazara Rama temple is one of the most exquisitely carved temples in Hampi. The grandeur of the architecture can be gauged by the beautiful carvings even on the compound walls of the temple. There are 2 versions to why the temple could have got the name Hazara Rama. One version is that there are 1000 carvings of Lord Rama (one of the avataaras of Lord Vishnu) in the temple, which could have led to its name. The other version is that the name Hazara Rama may have evolved from the Telugu word "Hazaaramu, meaning: A royal hall or chamber of audience; a place where persons of distinction sit or assemble". Perhaps, this makes a lot of sense because the Hazara Rama temple was used as a private chapel by the Vijayanagar rulers and the members of the royal family. This is the only temple located at the core of the royal enclosure, between the residential & ceremonial enclosures. This temple was mainly reserved for the royal ceremonies, which perhaps also explains the richness of the architecture. Although not a very big temple by Hampi's yardstick, it is by far the best in architectural accomplishments.

There is a small Hanuman temple behind the Hazara Rama temple. We can also enter the temple complex from the rear through a small passage near this Hanuman temple.

The carvings portray the processions of elephants, horses with attendants, military contingents, and dancing girls, as it used to take place during the Mahanavami festival (during Navaraatri) and described in great detail by the foreign visitors of the time.

Inscriptions inside the temple indicate that it was erected by Devaraya I in the early 15th century, dedicating the temple to Lord Rama under the name Ramachandra. The carving below is that of Ahalya (wife of the Rishi Gautama), being freed from the curse of turning into a rock for alleged infidelity. When Rama & Lakshmana come under the tutelage of Sage Vishwamitra, they are taught the art and science of warfare by the Sage. As they undergo learning under the Sage, along the way as they pass through the desolate aashram of Sage Gautama, they come across the rock which Sage Vishwamitra explains is actually Ahalya who had been cursed. Upon Rama touching the rock with his feet, Ahalya is liberated from the curse and freed.

The entire Ramayana has been carved in the Hazara Rama temple. We can notice Sita being attracted to the "golden deer" (actually, the demon Maricha in disguise), Rama leaving Sita in Lakshmana's care, shooting the deer, etc. Upon Rama hitting the deer with arrow, Maricha who till then was in disguise assumes his original form. This is very beautifully depicted in the carvings.

We can also find the carvings of Rama tying the bow and readying the arrow to hit the target in the Sita Swayamwara, & taking Sita to Ayodhya on the elephant after winning her hand in marriage.

Below is the carving which captures the valiant fight of Jataayu the eagle, with Ravana, the 10 headed demon king of Lanka. As Ravana kidnaps Sita, Jataayu hears her screams and comes to her rescue. However, after putting up a valiant fight, Ravana cuts Jataayu's wings & takes away Sita.

Narayana with Shankha (Conch), Chakra (Disc), & Gadha (hammer). Lord Vishnu, also called Narayana, is often addressed - Shankha, Chakra, Gadhaadhaari...one who wears the Shankha, Chakra, & Gadha. Venu Gopala can also be found below.

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (06)

2013-01-14T16:17:00.001+05:30

The Krishna temple is another architectural marvel of Hampi. In 1513 AD, Krishnadeva Raya conquered the Udayagiri fort, which was under the control of King Gajapati Prataaparudra of Orissa, after a long siege lasting a year and a half. Thereafter, Krishnadeva Raya also invaded Cuttack, the capital of Gajapatis, & Gajapati Prataaparudra was forced to make peace with Vijayanagar. The Gajapati gave his daughter Tukkadevi, also called Jaganmohini, in marriage to Krishnadeva Raya, thus sealing friendship between the two kingdoms. In return, Krishnadeva Raya returned all the territory north of river Krishna, to Prataaparudra. On his way back from the successful conquest of Orissa, Krishnadeva Raya had stopped at a place, where he is said to have chanced upon a beautiful idol of Lord Krishna. This idol he brought to Hampi, had a beautiful temple built, & installed the deity there.

As we enter the temple complex, right at the entrance on the left we can see the royal insignia of Vijayanagar dynasty. Here, we notice the boar (one of the avataaras of Lord Vishnu), which signifies that the Vijayanagar kings were devotees of Vishnu. We can also see the sun & moon, which signifies that the kingdom shall last till the sun & moon. There is also a sword, which signifies self defence. Summing it up, the royal insignia conveys the message that the Vijayanagar kings were devotees of Vishnu & envisioned of a lasting kingdom, to achieve which they'd defend the kingdom against enemies and other external threats.

This is the main sanctum sanctorum of Krishna. The deity no longer exists because it was destroyed during the siege.

These are the resting places for devotees.

Outside view (from within the temple complex) of the main sanctum sanctorum.

View of the temple complex...

The gopuram of the main entrance is built of brick and mortar, like most of the other temples.

Intricate architecture on the gopuram of the main entrance to the temple.

An empty sanctum sanctorum of the temple of the goddess (perhaps Lakshmi or Andal) in the premises of Krishna temple.

Opposite the temple, across the road passing by is the Krishna bazaar where devotees visiting the temple shopped around. At the entrance to the bazaar is placed a stone hundi (offering box) in which the devotees used to make offering which was then used for various activities such as feeding the devotees, festivities, etc.

The Prasanna Virupaksha temple is another beautiful Shiva temple not to be missed. Our guide could not take us to this temple on day 1 because we were severely running against time & we still had a lot of important places to see. However, we returned back on day 3 & covered these places...Since the temple is located below the ground level, this is also called "underground Shiva temple". The multi pillared temple from within...

This is the entrance to the temple. The deity, Shiva Linga, no more exists in this temple. It is said that water from somewhere beneath the ground (believed to be Ganga) used to fall on the Shiva Linga as if the abhishekam (bathng the deity) was carried out eternally. Such temples existed aplenty in olden days. Even to this day, there is a temple in Malleshwaram area of Bangalore, where water falls on the Shiva Linga continuously & is in a state of eternal abhishekam being carried out.

The lonely Nandi without the master appears to be brooding...

Ganesha at the entrance to the temple.

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (05)

2013-01-08T16:07:00.000+05:30

Small ruined temples like this one are aplenty in and around Hampi.

Here's another beautiful temple, the Deity (perhaps Vishnu) used to be worshiped here.

The Zenana Enclosure houses the beautiful Lotus Mahal. It is said that this was like a summer palace & socializing place for the queens & other women of the royal family. This building is also known by the names Chitrangini Mahal and Kamala (lotus) Mahal. This is not built in granite, but from brick and lime mortar. It is said that the queens & other women used to come here to socialize and enjoy the cool breeze, especially during summer. The building is a 2 storied one & mostly, the royal women used to occupy the upper floor of the building. The architecture is a combination of Hindu & Islamic styles, which is perhaps why it was not destroyed during the siege. The Lotus Mahal is at some distance from the Royal Enclosure. Nobody is allowed to enter the building & we can only appreciate it by standing close to it.

There are 3 watch towers near the Lotus Mahal. Perhaps there was a fourth one too, but it no longer exists.

Very close to the Lotus Mahal is the elephants' stable & mahouts' quarters. There were 11 royal elephants which were housed in this stable. The caretakers were housed in the quarters close to the stables. Although this is shown as elephants' stables, some archaeologists believe that this could have been the king's secretariat building.

The Lakshmi - Narasimha temple is one of the star attractions of Hampi along with the stone chariot. Narasimha is one of the 10 avataara's of Lord Vishnu. In this image, Narasimha is sitting on the coils of a 7 headed snake called Adisesha in Yogic posture. The heads of the snake form the hood. On his left lap was seated His consort, Goddess Lakshmi, whose image has been destroyed in the siege. If we get inside the enclosure, we can see the remains of Lakshmi's right hand around Narasimha's waist in an embracing position. We can also notice Her finger nails and rings which are so beautifully sculpted. Since His consort has been destroyed, this image is also often called Ugra Narasimha, the aggressive form of Narasimha. Essentially, Narasimha is the God whose form is half-man half-lion. Nara means man, simha means lion. Both the hands of the Deity have been destroyed & so have both His feet. In the normal form, the right hand of Lakshmi Narasimha can be found to be in "abhaya mudra", which means being in the "reassuring posture".

Close to Narasimha temple is Badavi Linga. The story goes that, a poor lady (badavi in Kannada) wanted to contribute something memorable to the king. So, she obtained the king's permission, dug into her meager savings & got this Shiva Linga made and had it established near Narasimha. This Linga is one of the largest in the country. It stands tall at 12 feet high, the bottom 3 feet of which is always under water. The upper 9 feet is visible to devotees. Since the Linga is constantly under water, it is called Jalakantheshwara. Worship is still carried out here.

Atop the Hemakuta hill are 2 large Ganesha idols - sasivekaalu Ganesha & kadalekaalu Ganesha. Sasivekaalu means mustard seed & kadalekaalu means bengal gram. The sasivekaalu Ganesha is about 2.4 meter high. This is a monolithic Ganesha sculpted from a single huge rock.

An open pavilion has been built around the sasivekaalu Ganesha & from the inscriptions found nearby it becomes clear that the pavilion was built by a trader from Chandragiri (in present day Andhra Pradesh) in 1506 AD. The trader had this built in memory of Narasimha II (1491 AD to 1505 AD), one of the Vijayanagar kings. Saasivekaalu Ganesha from a distance...

The sasivekaalu Ganesha holds a goad (called ankusha in Sanskrit), noose (called paasha in Sanskrit), & broken tusk in 3 of His 4 hands. In the 4th, He holds Modaka (kind of sweet ball). This 4th hand was damaged by some mischief mongers or treasure hunters, but it has been fixed now. The Ganesha also has a serpent tied to his belly (called udara in Sanskrit). Since Ganesha has a large belly (udara), He is also called Lambodara. Lamba in Sanskrit means big or huge. Lambodara means, the big bellied one.

The kadalekaalu (bengal gram) Ganesha is also a monolithic idol sculpted from a single huge boulder. This Ganesha got the name because His belly resembles a grain of bengal gram (kadalekaalu in Kannada). This Ganesha is almost double that of sasivekaalu Ganesha and stands tall at about 4.5 meter & is one of the largest sculptures in Hampi. The belly of this Ganesha has been mutilated & hence no worship is carried out. A beautiful sanctum has been built for this Ganesha. The sanctum is built with slender pillars on which have been sculpted mythological themes.

One of the entrances on the Hemakuta hill. The path thru' this entrance takes us to the kadalekaalu Ganesha.

A closeup view of kadalekaalu Ganesha.

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (04)

2013-01-07T17:25:00.001+05:30

The next place on our agenda was the queens' bath. This is part of the Royal Enclosure. Although it is called the queens' bath, there is no unanimity about the same. Perhaps, it could have been a royal pleasure complex for the king & his wives, or, as some guides suggested, it could also be the noble ladies' bath.

There is an open pond in the middle, into which project many balconies. Water was supplied to the pond thru' an internal water supply system. There is also a exit inside the pond to refurbish with fresh water. In the pond can also be seen the remains of what were perhaps 4 pillars, at the corners. We were informed that there could have been some roof or canopy which were supported by these pillars. Also, it is said that the women from the court used to keep a watch on the passersby by sitting on the upper floors, while the noble ladies indulged in fun.

It is also said that the noble women used to take bath or have fun in the water which was perfumed & filled with fragrant flowers. What is also noticeable is the Islamic architecture integrated into the structure.

This is the first place to see as part of the visit to the Royal Enclosure.

Next, we entered the Royal Enclosure. Right at the entrance we can see a huge stone door with locking systems which guarded the entrance. Although the door is no more in use, the way it was being operated can still be seen with the help of the guide's narration. As we entered, right in front was a huge stage called Navami Dibba (Navami Stage or Platform). This is the stage on which were honored the winners of competitions conducted during the most famous festival celebrated - Dussehra or Dasara or Navaraatri. On the 9th day (Navami) of the 10 day long festival, the winners were honored on this stage.

It was initially built in granite, which was further enhanced in black granite by Krishnadeva Raya. The carvings on Navami Dibba perhaps give a glimpse of the various celebrations conducted during the festivities.

Standing on the Navami Dibba, we can see the ruins of Royal Enclosure. This is one of the largest tanks we can see in the Royal Enclosure. Similarly, there were smaller tanks as well. There were a total of 22 such tanks (both large & small together), which used to keep temperature cool inside the palace.

This is one of the small tanks within the Royal Enclosure to keep it cool. We could say, this is like the earliest version of air cooling or air conditioning :-) We can notice the water supply system to the tank here.

Ruins of Royal Enclosure from Navami Dibba.

We can also see the ruins of what was once the Royal Palace. Of course, nothing remains now. But, the foundations can be seen. It is said that the palace was 2 or 3 storied & was made of pure sandalwood. After the defeat of Vijayanagar, the palaces were completely burnt to ashes. What remains now is just the foundations for the pillars & walls of what was perhaps a beautiful palace of sandalwood.

We can also notice the water supply system to the Royal Enclosure. It is quite an impeccable system put in place & is in good shape to appreciate.

A secret chamber where confidential information used to be passed on to the officials to carry out the king's or other senior member's (of the royal family) commands. It is pitch dark inside the chamber & unless we switch on the light of our mobile phones or the guide leads us, we are most likely to bang our heads against the walls of the chamber. Even otherwise, it is better to tread slowly, looking for the path by holding the hands against the walls. The secret chamber perhaps reinforces the fact that there could have been people working against the king or some royal member or king's officials, whose unwanted interest had to be avoided while conveying the message. As they say, it is important to maintain important information discretely & with discretion because even the walls can have ears.

These are the stone plates in which the common people used to feed. Perhaps, they were served food in these plates when they came to see the king & other royals or noble men. The royals & noble men used to eat in plates made from precious metals & their alloys.

This is the public bath for the general public visiting the royals or noble men.

After covering the Royal Enclosure, we headed back to our hotel. En route, we saw some more ruins...ruins of what was once a fledgling Jain temple.

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (03)

2013-01-04T16:22:00.000+05:30

As we walked toward the Vijaya Vitthala temple, we noticed another temple, which we were told was dedicated to Saraswati, the Goddess of knowledge and learning. There is no Deity here, & hence no worship happens. Behind the Garbha Griha (sanctum sanctorum) are built resting places for devotees who visited this temple.

As we watched around us, there were ruins galore all around.

This is the king's balance. Here, the equivalent of the king's weight in precious metals & stones was weighed & was offered to the Vijaya Vitthala temple. The balance no longer is seen, but the pedestal on which was hung the king's balance is still in pretty good shape. The path behind the king's balance is called Raaja Maarga (king's path or royals' path which was the path taken by the king & his family).

This is one of the entrances to the famous Vijaya Vitthala temple. The main sanctum sanctorum is in total shambles now, but, the beauty of Vijayanagar architecture is not to be missed. The artisans used granite to build the main structure & masonry (including bricks) to build the Gopuram. Hence, in many places, we can still see the main structure but time has taken its toll on the Gopurams.

This is the main sanctum sanctorum of the temple. Almost half of it has been destroyed as can be seen, but the remaining half gives a fair idea of the beautiful architecture. The artisans selected specific granite for this temple & built what is now famous as the musical pillars. It is said that musicians used to play on these pillars.

On all the corners of the sanctum sanctorum's roof we can see rings like the ones below. King Krishnadeva Raya had fallen in love with one of his court danseuse, Jaganmohini & married her. She was not given any royal title but she enjoyed a lot of the king's attention. After marrying the king, she did not perform in the court, but whenever the king wanted to enjoy the dance, screens were tied all across the sanctum sanctorum to prevent anyone else from seeing the dance. One end of the screens was tied to the roof corner like this one.

The other end of the screens were tied to the holes in the bangle like designs. This can be seen below. Most guides explain the architectural intricacies of the Vijaya Vitthala temple quite well.

Some of the carvings beautifully capture the way of life at Vijayanagar. Here is one such which captures the image of horses & men leading the horses. These are the best of the horses from around the world which were brought to the stables of Vijayanagar. The figure at the end depicts a man showing 2 fingers (for the number 2). This man is from the King's stable and he is negotiating the price for the horse brought to him. Similarly there are other carvings which capture various other aspects of life during the Vijayanagar period. Some of these capture the different peoples who used to visit & take part in the various festivities or competitions conducted during major festivals. The grandeur of art & architecture is a joy to the eyes.

Traders from different parts of the world used to come to Hampi to sell their goods and commodities. The peoples who visited Hampi are well captured in the architectural wonder left behind...Here is one such in the Vijaya Vitthala temple where traders from China (on the left) and an Arab (on the right) have been captured. The Arab is bringing his horses for trade. It can also be construed that the Arabian horses were chiefly employed by the king...

This is a Portuguese trader...

The horses were trained extensively before being employed in the king's stable...This is captured in the art below.

The renowned musical pillars of the Vijaya Vitthala temple...It is unfathomable that artists used to play on them in those days. We are not allowed to enter the temple complex.

Yoga Narasimha on one of the pillars...He is holding Shankha (conch) in His right hand & Chakra (disc) in His left and sitting in Yoga mudra.

Venu Gopala (in Sanskrit, Venu = Flute, Go = cow, Pala = protector; Gopala also means cowherd), one of the forms of Krishna. Here, Krishna can be seen with 4 hands. While He is playing the flute with 2 of His hands, in the other two, He is holding Shankha (conch) with His left and chakra (disc) with His right hand. He can be seen in cross legged posture, which is the posture of Krishna when playing the flute.

Just like we create blueprints of our homes while building, similarly sculptors & artisans used to create blueprints of their creations. There are six such blueprints around the sanctum sanctorum of the temple. One of them is below. The temple is built exactly as per this blueprint.

The Gopuram of the temple entrance is very much under the influence of time as can be seen. Since it is made of masonry, it cannot weather the impact of time the way granite does. Hence, in many places we notice Gopurams in dilapidated condition.

This is one of the mantapas in the temple complex. Our guide, Bharat gave a demo of how music was created in the stone pillars in those days.

The below image on pillars is typical of Vijayanagar art. It embodies 5 elements namely - elephant trunk, crocodile jaws & mouth, rabbit ears, lion paws, & horse body. Each of these elements signify different aspects of nature. For example, rabbit ears signify the ability to be a alert listener, horse body signifies agility, similarly lion paws indicate strength, elephant trunk signifies steadiness, & crocodile jaws & mouth indicate firm grip (on the kingdom). The human astride such a animal is the king. This signifies the way a king is supposed to rule his kingdom.

This is the world renowned stone chariot of Hampi. This is seen in the Vijaya Vitthala temple complex. It is not true that this chariot was once being driven around the temple complex as is usually found in many temples across India, especially during major festivals and events. However, what is true is that until a few years ago, the wheels of the chariot could be rotated. Our guide Bharat informed us that while rotating the wheels, some part was damaged & since then the Archaeology department fixed the wheel once and for all. In the chariot is the image of Garuda (eagle), Vishnu's escort. Devotees would usually pay obeisance to Garuda after having darshan of Vitthala. Thereafter, they would rotate the wheels and feel as if they were pulling the chariot. This custom of pulling the chariot by devotees is still carried out in most of the important and big temples across India & is regarded as being highly auspicious and pious act.

As we came out of the temple complex, few more ruins were awaiting us. This was once a Vishnu temple, which no longer is home to its master now.

This is resting place (tangu daana) for devotees who visited the Vitthala temple.

Here are few pictures of the ruins atop the Hemakoota hill. The structure which is partly painted white in the below picture is the temple of Moola Virupaksha. Albeit we did not find any influence of Islamic architecture in this temple, we were surprised to see the temple in good condition. In fact, the Deity, Virupaksha (Shiva) is still being worshiped here. Upon questioning our guide, we were told that most of the temples destroyed are that of Vishnu...That is because, the Shiva linga is hemispherical at the top, which again is like Islamic art. Hence, Shiva temples were spared the wrath of the havoc. In fact, even in the main Virupaksha temple, only certain images have been destroyed. But, neither the main Deity Virupaksha nor the Goddesses Bhuvaneshwari & Pampa Devi (Parvati, Shiva's consort) have been affected.

View from the Hemakoota hill - Virupaksha temple entrance, sanctum sanctorum gopuram, & few temples no more in use.

The Virupaksha temple stands tall amidst the nature defying rocky terrain of Hampi...

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (02)

2013-01-03T17:35:00.000+05:30

After the Virupaksha temple, our guide asked if we wanted to visit the next place on foot or on rick. Not being sure why he was asking thus, we inquired & were told that there are a few prominent places which could be covered if we went on foot. So, we decided to walk from Virupaksha temple to the Vitthala temple, which is a good 2.5 - 3 Km walk. En route are few important temples. Rama - Sugreeva temple (called Kodandarama temple), where it is believed Lord Rama & Sugreeva (the monkey king) struck friendship. Here we can see Rama, Lakshmana, & Seeta, and in place of Hanuman is Sugreeva. This is a temple where worship is still being carried out & we could smell the fragrance which is typical of an ancient temple in India. A little above is another temple dedicated to Hanuman. This is called Yantroddhaaraka Hanuman temple. It is believed that a great devotee of Hanuman did not want him to leave the place. To ensure that, the devotee captured Hanuman in a mystical symbol and established the temple so that devotees like himself could have darshan & seek Hanuman's blessings. Very close to these temples is Sugreeva's cave where it is believed Sugreeva had hidden from his brother Vaali, who was killed by Rama & crowned Sugreeva as the king of the region. This region is widely believed to be Kishkindha kingdom predating to the Ramayana period. All along our walk, everywhere we found ruins...of temples, market places, ponds, lakes...

A lonely Dhwaja Sthambha (flag post) in front of what was perhaps a temple dedicated to a Deity stands witness to the havoc unleashed on Hampi.

Here's another mute witness to the ruinous siege of Hampi.

A dilapidated temple amidst natural rocky terrain of Hampi & view of the empty sanctum sanctorum of the temple where once the Deity was worshiped. When we see the inside of such destroyed temples, we can notice the granite blackening and flakes of granite coming off. We can also smell an acrid odor inside such temples. This is because, during the siege of Hampi, after destroying the temples, the invading armies filled the destroyed temples with firewood and set afire. Because of the heat and fire, granite used in constructing the temples lost their natural properties, were blackened, & over a period of time, flakes of granite started coming off and began giving odor.

Narayana (Vishnu) & a female figure amidst the ruins. We were surprised to see quite a few ruins like the ones below still in pretty good shape...

Architectural marvel amidst the ruins...

This is the soole (prostitutes') bazaar, where the trade was carried out openly. Just near the entrance to this bazaar is a big Pushkarani (tank) which still has water, but in a dilapidated condition.

On the banks of the Tungabhadra is located what is called the Purandara Mantapa. This is dedicated to the famous singer, poet, & saint Purandara Daasa, a very great devotee of Lord Vishnu. It is said that in this mantapa, Purandara Daasa used to sing in praise of Vitthala (Vishnu), whose temple, the Vijaya Vitthala temple is located nearby. Saint Purandara Daasa has composed almost 5 lac songs, mostly on Vishnu. It is said that he had a vision that the temples & the presiding deities would be destroyed in the war. Hence, he took the image of Vitthala from the Vijaya Vitthala temple, carried it all the way to Maharashtra, & established them in the famous Hindu pilgrimage center of Pandharaapura, where Vitthala is the presiding Deity. Below is the image of Purandara Daasa in the mantapa.

The Tungabhadra flows in all majesty amidst the backdrop of the ruins. At Purandara Mantapa, we spent some time in the river.

Hampi - ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty (01)

2013-01-03T14:54:00.002+05:30

As we stared at 2012 coming to a closure, I & my wife were wondering where we could go for a brief vacation, something which would be a memorable experience. As we were pondering, in a supplement of one of the daily newspapers was the mention of Hampi, the Capital city of the famous South Indian kingdom of Vijayanagar. My wife brought up the topic during evening tea & we finalized it. It is one thing to read history & see pictures on the net. Going to the place, exploring, experiencing, & appreciating history first hand is an entirely different matter. I & wifey wanted to soak in the magnificence of the art & architecture, rich culture, & history of Vijayanagar. Finally, when we covered most of the places to see @ Hampi, we decided to return to spend more time on every pillar, every carving on those pillars; listen to, introspect, & comprehend the history and stories behind those magnificent temples & the ruins lying all across the place on the banks of the beautiful Tungabhadra, who seems to be a witness to the glory of Vijayanagar and also its ruins. Seeing the ruins lying everywhere is a stomach churning experience. Such wonderful architecture...how could anybody feel like destroying such magnificent sculptures? Nothing was left eventually...after that fateful battle of Talikota, in which the Vijayanagar army was routed although they had made early gains during the initial stages of the war. The beautiful city of Hampi was plundered, ransacked, set on fire, & destroyed. The scale of destruction was so much that, i feel it must have been like a ghost city for many centuries after the destruction. During the peak of power, it is famously said that gold & other precious metals, precious stones, etc., were weighed & sold in the famous bazaars (market places) of Hampi. There were many market places - Krishna bazaar, Hampi bazaar (opposite the Virupaksha temple), & pan - supari bazaar, to name a few. There was a market place for prostitution also; this is called Soole (prostitutes') bazaar, where prostitution was carried out officially.

As we landed in Hospet railway station, which is the nearest station to Hampi, we were stalked by a battery of auto rickshaw drivers, asking whether we needed a rick. It was quite a mayhem outside the station, what with our visit coinciding with the best time to visit Hampi. Hospet is a Taluk head quarters & comes under Bellary district of Karnataka State. As we were trying to make way, we were greeted by Harsha, one of the auto wallahs. He inquired which hotel we wanted to go to & upon being told, he mentioned a reasonable amount to take us there. As we were going to the hotel, we inquired if he could take us around Hampi and the surrounding places of interest & what'd he charge for that? Our son loves travelling by rick & also, a distance of about 14 Km from Hospet to Hampi is nothing. We closed the deal (which i think was quite reasonable), & headed to get ready for our Hampi expedition. After a sumptuous complementary breakfast at the hotel, we started in Harsha's rick to explore Hampi.

Upon arriving, we were told to hire a local guide who could show us around prominent places & also explain some of the historical & architectural details. I must admit that the local guides do not come cheap, & we should be prepared to shell out quite a sum (approximately INR 1500 per day) to hire the services of a good guide. I do not think we'd need the guide for more than a day because, after seeing the important places & listening to some history, we should rather read more in detail on our own & explore the place ourselves. After a lot of difficulty, we managed to find Bharat, a local guide who is not yet a licensed guide, but he is preparing to get the license. We found him to be flexible, open minded, & reasonable, although we wished he narrated more stories. We started our expedition with the Virupaksha temple, which is one of the only places where the presiding Deity, Lord Virupaksha (Shiva), is still worshipped. Krishnadeva Raya (AD 1509 - AD 1529), the most prominent among the Vijayanagar kings, has presented a golden crown to Lord Virupaksha which weighs about 5.5 Kg. In the same premises is also a small temple of Goddess Bhuvaneshwari, who was worshipped & whose blessings were sought by Krishnadeva Raya before carrying out any military campaign.

As soon as we enter the Virupaksha temple thru' the mukhya dwara (main entrance), on the left we can find the idol of a small 3 headed bull, Nandi, the escort of Shiva. The bull has a common body with 3 heads, which represent Brahma, Vishnu, & Maheshwara. The common body represents the unity of the Trimurtis. As is said in Vedantic Philosophy - EKAM SAT, VIPRAH BAHUDHA VADANTI...Truth is one, people call in many names...One of the heads of this Nandi is mutilated (after the battle of Talikot) & hence no offering or worship of this Nandi is carried out (as per Hindu tradition, mutilated idols of Gods or Deities should not be worshipped). It is common to find 3 Nandis in front of any Shiva temple in Hampi, representing the Trimurtis. But, they are mostly separated & not united like this one. This is perhaps the only united Nandi in Hampi.

We asked Bharat, our guide, why the Virupaksha temple was spared of the destruction after the fall of Vijayanagar? He informed us that the temple is an amalgamation of Hindu & Islamic architecture & hence it was spared. In fact, we noticed that the entrance at the Mukhya dwara was sculpted like that of a Mosque & could appreciate what Bharat told us. So, all the temples and structures which had pure Hindu architecture were destroyed, whereas the ones with Islamic architecture amalgamated were spared. As we came out of the Garbha Griha or Garbha Gudi (sanctum sanctorum), we headed to the Kalyana Mantapa within the same premises. Here, there are exquisite paintings on the roof which showcase the Dashaavataara (10 avataaras of Vishnu), the Ashta Dikpaalakas (heads of 8 directions, namely - N, E, W, S, NE, NW, SE, SW), Arjuna looking at the rotating fish & then subsequently shooting it looking into the reflection during Draupadi swayamwara, & few more. I could not take pictures of them.

This is the Mukhya Dwara Gopura (main entrance) of Virupaksha temple from a distance. As we enter the temple premises thru' this entrance, we can notice that it is designed in Islamic style (like that of a entrance to a Mosque).

This is the Garbha Griha Gopura (sanctum sanctorum) of Virupaksha temple from a distance.

The plight of the common man

2012-10-12T16:05:00.000+05:30

Perhaps, never in the history of free India could the common man have felt so miserable & taken for granted than now. Prices are soaring, inflation is high, medical expenses are increasing, housing is not affordable, education is slowly getting out of reach of even the famed middle class...with so much happening, all at the same time, the plight of the common man is glaring right in front of our eyes. While the Government of India may be hoping that the new Chief Economic Adviser to the Prime Minister, Raghuram Rajan will work magic for the economy, reality is far from that fantasy. While the economic cost of living a decent life has skyrocketed, the Government is surprisingly mum about the social sector spending. MGNREGA, which the Center boasts as its flagship program to guarantee minimum 100 days' employment per annum to the rural population, the program is actually inefficient because of siphoning of funds meant for the program by middlemen, creating false identity & drawing the money, entire money not reaching the beneficiaries, etc. In addition to this, while the MGNREGA might guarantee 100 days' employment per annum, what about the remaining 250 days in a year? With the costs increasing by the day, the amount the beneficiaries would receive for the 100 days would barely suffice to meet the requirements of food, leave aside clothing, healthcare, & education. Still, the Government calls it the flagship program.

If equity is one of the most important fundamental rights guaranteed by the constitution, then, any program should ideally result in equitable distribution of resources. Unfortunately, the spate of scams that have been tumbling out of the closet clearly indicates blatant misuse of public office by those in the echelons of power. Even if only 50% of the size of these scams were to be spent by the Government on creating the social infrastructure to build a strong Nation, it would automatically create millions of jobs & a means of livelyhood for the masses. When that happens, the masses will automatically start spending & the economy will bounce back. Cutting down subsidies, while it does bring in short term benefits, in the long term, by cutting down subsidies to the farming sector we are only calling for spiralling prices. In that regard, while freeing the diesel prices to be in tune with market trends, it should be done so only for the commercial sector & not the farming sector. Why should the farmers pay the price for the ills of others? Unfortunately, while the farming community is usually a huge vote bank, it is the least regarded after the elections. The result? Thousands of farmers commit suicide every year. In my opinion, a Nation which does not look after its farmers well, will not be able to create a welfare State.

It is widely believed that by cutting down corporate taxes, industries will be able to productively invest the money in creating new capacities & thereby create new jobs. Unfortunately, the facts beg to differ. In the US, during the term of George Bush Jr., what happened in 2008 was a collective failure of this philosophy. The corporates just kept on writing fatter & fatter bonuses to themselves while creating an armageddon of economic risk to the global economy & eventually when the entire system collapsed in 2008 (which is nothing but a structural collapse), they all went to Obama with a begging bowl to save them. And when Obama did agree to save them & handed them with taxpayers' money, what did the corporates do? Again, they wrote fat bonuses to themselves. This is clearly atrocious at the least. No wonder, Obama was fuming at the irresponsible & condemnable behavior of the corporates. In my opinion, such corporates should have been jailed for misusing taxpayers' money.

In economic theory, there is something like a "hidden hand" which takes care when each individual looks after his / her own interest. There is no such hidden hand anywhere. If the hidden hand were to come to the rescue, it certainly did not do so during the Great Depression of 1930s, or the oil crisis of 1970s, & now, in 2008, when human greed was at the peak. There is no way we can afford to say "greed is good". The point is, whose greed & how much of it is good? Because, human greed has no limits, & the resources available on Earth is clearly not infinite. Hence, we should be promoting "live within your means" program throughout the world. Only this philosophy of living within ones' means is sustainable in the long term.

Many people believe in the "trickle down effect" of wealth creation. Ironically, the trickle down happens only at the top...It never reaches the common man on the streets. In the guise of trying to create a feel good factor, we should not be assuming & creating illusory philosophies which are far from the hard facts of life. In that regard, Raghuram Rajan seems to have made the right noises...that the structure of Public Distribution System in India is highly inefficient & corrupt, to tackle the supply side constraints which is also a important contributing factor for high inflation...clearly it can be seen that if the supply side constraints are addressed & the PDS is made more responsive & efficient, it creates win-win situation for the Government & the people. When this is coupled with social sector spending by the Government, we will have the economy bouncing with "animal spirits" which the Prime Minister wants.

On a personal note, I like Raghuram Rajan because he saw the 2008 catastrophe coming way back in 2005. It is another matter that nobody took him seriously...Including the then Fed Chairman...

Visit to Nagarhole

2012-05-09T14:38:00.000+05:30

Visiting a jungle is a very revealing experience. Having grown up in places surrounded by the thick Dandeli forests of North Karnataka, where I & my friends used to frequently gather some wild fruits, it was more of home coming when we visited the Nagarhole forests near HD Kote Taluk of Mysore district. Its a joy to see animals in their natural habitat. Having seen animals in their natural habitat, I really do not feel like visiting a zoo or a National Park. It was a first time for my son, but surprisingly, not only was he very well behaved, but also enjoyed the jungle safaris. Visit to a jungle like this is incomplete without sighting a major predator like Tiger or its lesser cousin, Leopard. Unfortunately, although we spent 2 full days in the jungle & had almost 4 safaris, we were not able to sight the predator. Quite a lot of other people were lucky enough to spot the Tiger, Leopard, and Dhole (wild dog). However, we were able to spot the Leopard pugmarks as a consolation, if it may be called such. Albeit I was not able to use my DSLR for the lack of a good zoom lens, I was able to take some good shots with a point & shoot, though. Here are some of them.

The first inhabitant we were able to spot was a beautiful peacock, the National bird. We felt it was a good omen, & that we may be lucky enough to spot some good predator.

Langur

Playful Langurs

Herd of cheetal

Herd of Asian elephant

This is the Giant Malabar Squirrel...something which can be spotted quite easily for the loud call it gives.

We spotted some of the preys all through our stay. Leopards prey upon monkeys, stray dogs, fowls, etc., unlike their bigger cousin Tiger, who preys upon gaurs, sambar, & cheetal.

Gaur (Indian Bison)

Cheetal

Sambar

Herd of gaurs

While we may not have sighted a predator, but we did spot the pugmarks of a leopard which had just passed by early in the morning.

We also spotted a host of birds, names of which I am not very conversant with. However, I must admit 1 thing, that for good shots in the wild, a zoom lens is a must. I missed it very badly. Perhaps, with a zoom lens, I could've shot better. Nevertheless, the capabilities of a point and shoot should never be undermined. For, while in the wild, the point and shoot must be kept handy all the time.

We also met an amphibian predator...The crocodile...

Expectations & individual freedom...

2012-05-02T17:27:00.001+05:30

In life, if there is one thing that cannot be missed by most, if not all, is EXPECTATIONS. This 12 letter word is quite a dreadful word, so much so that, I oftentimes wonder, if this is all there is to life - expectations? When I think deeply, I see that an individual's life is made up of almost 99.999% others' expectations, & whatever else is left (if any), is his. How much more cruel can an individual's life get than the fact that in all practicality, we merely seem to exist to fulfill others' expectations?

In almost every role I play in my life (by design, choice, or by accident), expectations chase me & almost always push me to the walls. Think of it, parents, spouse, children, friends, relatives, almost everyone has some or the other expectation from the individual. Even the beggar on the street expects something as we walk past him. Is there nothing called - MY OWN LIFE? These expectations are so cruel that an individual may be torn apart running after them day and night to fulfill them. In fact, they bind the individual to an extent that, he may not even realize that there is something called his own life. How unfair.

The disturbing part about expectations is that everybody seems to justify them because of the relation to the individual. Parents justify saying - you are our son / daughter, & so it is natural for us to expect from you. Similarly do spouses, children, & others also justify, in fact impose their own expectations. While it may be justified, even fair to expect, what bothers me is that NOT EVEN A SINGLE THOUGHT IS SPARED FOR THE INDIVIDUAL. Even if there occurs a thought, it is very likely to get pushed behind those expectations. The situation seems quite dangerously - I WANT MY POUND OF YOUR FLESH, BECAUSE ITS MY RIGHT AS A PARENT, SPOUSE, CHILD, FRIEND, EVEN THE UNRELATED ONES.

In such a situation, one cannot help but feel bound by expectations. What happens to individual freedom then? Is not individual freedom the highest virtue to pursue in life? In pursuit of this virtue, wouldn't there be a fairly high probability that the individual may actually achieve something significant in life? An achievement which may be of very important consequence to society, the Nation, & of course future generations? Does individual freedom lead to selfishness? Does it lead to an egotistical person for whom only ones own self matters, & cares a damn about others? While it does appear so from the outside, it is not the case in reality.

There is this very profound saying - with freedom comes tremendous responsibility. Freedom does not mean that one begins to act recklessly or irrationally. On the contrary, freedom means responsible conduct of oneself in pursuit of ones own goals in life. It means, being fair while pursuing ones' interests & not getting cowed down by others & their expectations. While it may seem natural for many people to expect from the individual, the individual has to put it straight and define how much of what expectations can be expected from him. Since we live in societies & in groups, the chances of us getting cowed down due to comparisons and peer pressure is very high. Hence the need to set expectations right and clear upfront. This will also be helpful in safeguarding our own individuality. Every individual is unique, & that uniqueness needs to be defended. This defence of ones' individuality gives birth to individual freedom; and this, in my opinion, is perhaps the most important possession any man can have - INDIVIDUAL FREEDOM. This also happens to give the individual his real identity.

How we live & fulfillment in life...

2011-11-04T12:47:00.005+05:30

Its been quite some time since I wrote last. As I pondered on what to write (despite the innumerable things happening around us relentlessly), I came across few quotes attributed to some of the most wellknown persons. I thought, I might as well write about them, which may be valuable than write something which is still taking shape in my mind.

The first quote is attributed to Will Smith, the legendary Hollywood star. He says,"too many people spend money they haven't earned, to buy things they don't want, to impress people they don't like". Such a beautiful observation. It is indeed so true and reflects the social practices of the present age. What beats me is this - WHY CAN WE NOT BE TRUE TO OUR OWN SELVES? Oftentimes I wonder, is it possible to be true to others without being true to oneselves? We have become so busy with the externalities that we have lost touch with what truly matters. What we do not appreciate until its late is, what really matters is our own selves and the ones near and dear to us. We fail to understand what we truly need - physically, materially, psychologically, & spiritually. Why does it so happen? It is my deduction that this mostly happens because WE DO NOT HAVE TIME FOR OURSELVES. When was the last time we simply sat down on a mat in silence? When was the last time we heard the voice of our heart? When was the last time we honestly surrendered to God? When was the last time we humbly prayed to God for somebody else's wellbeing? When was the last time we just let loose, so that we could be truly ourselves?

When we observe, think, & deeply introspect on our possessions, and ask ourselves DO I REALLY NEED THIS, chances are very high that in almost 70% to 80% cases, we are either clueless of why we bought it, or, we wouldn't need them. Still, we do not realize that there is something wrong and, we are missing something. Until we realize and acknowledge that something is wrong and we are not really doing the right things, we will continue to be carried away by the awes of external world. Once that realization happens, we will start to pause to listen to our hearts. Only then do we start TRULY LIVING.

The second thought I came across from a friend of mine on Facebook. He has put up this thought attributed to Anand Mahindra. It goes like this - WEALTH IS MERELY A PROXY FOR ACHIEVEMENT AND NEVER A SUBSTITUTE FOR FULFILLMENT. Such a profound thought it is. I sometimes watch Kaun Banega Crorepati on television. It so happened that I saw 2 gentlemen win huge sums of money on the show. Of course, it is not easy to win big money on the show, because you have to answer a lot of questions correctly. But, what struck me was, when the host asked them what they'd do in life, now that they had won such huge sums of money, they both answered that they'd stop working and start enjoying the money they'd won. I found it all the more startling because these 2 gentlemen are still young, not older than I. How could a young guy like me stop working just because I'd won money on a television show? Why should a person's productive life stagnate just because he has won a jackpot? In contrast, I came across a quote from Sherlock Holmes in which he says,"My mind rebels at stagnation. Give me problems, give me work, give me the most abstruse cryptogram or the most intricate analysis, and I am in my own proper atmosphere. I can dispense then with artificial stimulants. But I abhor the dull routine of existence. I crave for mental exaltation". Think of it, you win a jackpot, & you are done with your life? What the hell. The attitude of such people only makes Will Smith's thought all the more real. In all fairness, you may want to take a break, go to Europe for a couple of weeks with family on holiday. But, does winning a jackpot mean taking holiday from the rest of your life? It doesn't make sense. It only underscores the long held belief that what is not earned isn't really worth it. While people make money in life (which most people do any way), HOW THEY MADE MONEY, HOW THEY TREAT WEALTH, HOW LIFE CHANGED AFTER THEY GOT WEALTH, WHAT HAPPENED TO THEIR CHARACTER, and most importantly, WHAT IS THEIR ATTITUDE TOWARD WORK is extremely important. Unless these questions, which in my opinion are profound, are not given deep thought and addressed, as Anand Mahindra rightly said, such wealth is mere proxy achievement and lack character.

Profound quotes...

2011-08-24T10:30:00.002+05:30

As I opened my personal email account, little did I realize that my day would start with a very beautiful mail forward from my good friend, Usha ma'am. While admitting that at this point in time I may not really be able to serve life as much as I aspire to, I realize that whenever possible, I can do whatever little I can to spread some good message that has the power to bring about positive changes to our thoughts, attitude, & actions, and hence positively bring changes to the world around us. In that regard, I thought I'll share few profound thoughts that my friend Usha ma'am shared with me. Here they go...

Prayer is not a "spare wheel" that you pull out when in trouble, but it is a "steering wheel" that directs the right path throughout.

Why's a Car's WINDSHIELD is so large & the Rear view Mirror so small? Because our PAST is not as important as our FUTURE. So, Look Ahead and Move on.

Friendship is like a BOOK. It takes few seconds to burn, but it takes years to write.

All things in life are temporary. If going well, enjoy it, they will not last forever. If going wrong, don't worry, they can't last long either.

Old Friends are Gold! New Friends are Diamond! If you get a Diamond, don't forget the Gold! Because to hold a Diamond, you always need a Base of Gold!

Often when we lose hope and think this is the end, GOD smiles from above and says, "Relax, sweetheart, it's just a bend, not the end!

When GOD solves your problems, you have faith in HIS abilities; when GOD doesn't solve your problems HE has faith in your abilities.

When you pray for others, God listens to you and blesses them, and sometimes, when you are safe and happy, remember that someone has prayed for you.

WORRYING does not take away tomorrow's TROUBLES, it takes away today's PEACE.

T G I F

2011-08-18T13:06:00.006+05:30

I heard some voice at an unknown distance telling me,"Wake up. What are you doing? Still asleep? What's wrong with you? Are you alright?" Suddenly I realized someone was pushing me hard. With a lot of reluctance I slowly opened my eyes. I noticed the face of a woman yelling at me to wake up. Not knowing why the woman wanted me to wake up, i rubbed my eyes & opened them. As the eyes allowed light to enter, I realized that the woman was none other than my wife. As reality started dawning upon me, I wondered why she was yelling at me to wake up. Perhaps reading my mind, she said,"what's wrong with you? You have 1 more day to go to work. It's friday today. And then, 3 days off." Yawning & still trying to wake up fully, I asked,"why 3 days?" "C'mon. Monday is the 15th of August. It's independence day, stupid". I thought to myself,"yeah, I now realize what it takes for most men to come to terms with their stupidity. Yeah, you got it guys. Its got to be marriage, right?" And ironically, it's not that men come to terms with this reality in the immediate aftermath of the catastrophe. The reality sinks in slowly & steadily.

You know, marriage is like a litmus test for men. Until marriage, we mostly think of pretty women as a must have by our side. The problem begins when that matures into a relationship & culminates into marriage. Some wise man has said - for women, life begins with marriage, whereas for men, life ends with it. Oftentimes I wonder, what sort of pain the wise man must've endured to come to such enlightening conclusion?

Any way, let me continue with my story. Dragging myself reluctantly, I entered the bath. Noticing the cloudy & slightly cold weather outside, I told myself - what a lovely day to just sleep, sleep, & sleep as if there was no tomorrow. As the thought passed by, I wondered if most people think like me, or was I alone? An endearing thought that I & a close friend share is to wake up in the morning to the reality of having the rest of our lives for whatever we want to do. It is such a uplifting & liberating thought that quite often I & my friend keep discussing how near or how far we are from this goal? While the goal itself might look too far fetched (considering our socio - economic background), we feel it is a good goal to have & a worthy one to pursue.

As I came out of the bath, I saw the clock reading 7:55 AM. I still had quite a few things to finish before breakfast & start for work. In between, I also had to keep my son engaged so that he doesn't end up throwing or damaging whatever comes within the reach of his hands. With a rush here & a barge there, I left home @ sharp 8.30 AM. As I engaged the car in the first gear, my son said with a cute smile,"have a nice day, dada. Come soon." I too reciprocated the wishes & hit the accelerator.

As I hit the main road, I saw that it was fairly empty, although traffic was picking up slowly. I turned on the FM & heard the RJs' excited voice. They were inviting listeners to share their ideas on what they thought when they come across a group of girls laughing? The responses were quite crazy in my opinion. One guy said that he dreaded to come face-to-face with a group of laughing girls; upon further prodding by the RJ, the hapless guy said he oftentimes feels if he looks so stupid that girls laugh at him. As I applied the brake to steer over a hump, I wondered,"how does it matter if you look stupid, dude. It's none of anybody's business. Even if the girls laugh at you, who cares? Perhaps, the guy might be a little too sensitive and under confident about himself to give a damn to what others think about him".

It was quite interesting to hear some of the confident guys speak on air. One guy categorically stated,"if the girls are laughing, its their busness. Neither have I the time to worry nor do I care". I jumped in my seat,"BRAVO! That's it dude. Its very simple". You know, most things in life need to be given only as much importance as is necessary & is due to it. Thinking too much about things more than necessary and due will neither change the thing nor will it really make much difference when we look at the larger picture. Come to think of it - is it really worth ruining one's day over why the girls were laughing at the person? Albeit it sounds too simple, most things in life are such.

As these thoughts raced thru' my mind, I felt my BlackBerry vibrate. I saw it was my dear old friend Sriram, a dear friend for more than 15 years. Receiving the call I quipped,"what's up buddy? How's you? How's work?" He said,"man, I'm f**king tired of this work. As you know, I just got into a new project, & its screwed up from every possible angle that one can think of. I am worried about my job if this mess doesn't get cleared". I said,"dude, stop worrying & start working. Sit with your manager, make him understand the mess, & set realistic expectations with him. And, tell him frankly that you'll need all the support in the world". He agreed & then inquired,"why not meet tomorrow for a drink?" I was about to say "yes" when I remembered that I had to take my family to Mysore, the following day. I said,"why wait till tomorrow? Why not today?" Pausing for a moment, he said,"sounds good. Lets make it @ 8.30 PM". As I ended the call, I entered the last stretch of my drive to work. Slowly I made my way thru' the harrowing traffic & finally found a place to park my car in the parking lot.

As I entered the elevator, I realized T G I F, thank God its friday. 3 full days of not having to do much, except have some good time with my li'l boy.

"Red day"

2011-08-13T22:16:00.007+05:30

It was "red day" in my son's playhome on 29th July. When my wife told me about the "red day" it didn't strike me. And then she explained - the playhome "celebrates" different days. To name a few - red day, blue day, green day, pets' day, flowers' day, etc., to inculcate appreciation among kids for different facets of nature. I went to attend the "red day" with a bit of skepticism. But, I was surprised by 2 things: One, there were many parents like me who actively participated; two, the joy & happiness of these tiny tots in taking their parents around their school & show them all that their school has taught them, which they have learnt.

While the degree of "active participation" of the parents varied & is debatable, the joy, happiness, & pride among most kids i came across was amazing. As i observed this fact, one thing struck me hard - IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT FOR EVERY PARENT TO ACTIVELY PARTICIPATE IN THE EVOLUTION OF THE CHILD'S JOURNEY. Only then will the child develop appreciation for some of the subtle things in life & help the child in learning better; qualities which can lighten up one's life forever, irrespective of one's chosen profession or work area...

As I walked thru' the school premises holding my son's little hand, i myself sensed the pride in him. I was totally surprised when he introduced me to a couple of his friends saying - this is my dad. More surprise was in store for me when he introduced me to his teacher as well.

As i walked back home, i realized that these kids are indeed LITTLE ANGELS...

Here are a few frames i captured on the occasion.

My son in the red bus