LindeeG Embroidery https://lindeegembroidery.com/ Premium Embroidery Designs & Education Thu, 01 Oct 2026 19:12:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.1.3 https://lindeegembroidery.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/cropped-site-icon-lg-32x32.png LindeeG Embroidery https://lindeegembroidery.com/ 32 32 How to Create a Knockout Monogram Appliqué https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/how-to-create-a-knockout-monogram-applique Thu, 01 Oct 2026 18:05:23 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=206772 The post How to Create a Knockout Monogram Appliqué appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> Knockout Monogram Appliqué designs have become a trend lately. They’re easy to do with basic digitizing software and better yet, basic skills. Let’s cover the steps.
Watch the video and then use the text version as a review.
 

Create the Letter for the Appliqué

Start with a large letter. It can even be a TTF; it does not have to be appliqué. In this case, size is limited to your hoop size, not the font.

This sample Brighton Golden 80mm. It’s ugly,  but that’s OL (Notice actual size on the Context bar.)
With TrueView [T] off, you can see the dotted lines indicating the stitches are too long to sew.
Break Apart the letter to objects. Weld the sections together and change the letter to a tatami fill.
NOTE: Check your outlines. You may want to smooth shapes.

Create the Name

For this step, you’ll want to use an embroidery font. A script works well; be sure to keep it with the recommended sizes. This one still looks good at 25mm. (Adoley 15mm from LindeeGEmbroidery)
Adjust spacing as needed (called “kerning”). To adjust individual letter spacing, use Reshape.
Rotate the name and move it into position; resize either object if needed.

Create the Knockout

Select the name and click Create Layouts > Create Outlines & Offsets.
  1. No object outlines
  2. Offset outline is 1.5mm, offset count is 4, select a corner style (I chose rounded).
Decide which offset you like. (Adjust placement if needed.)
Remember to factor in the width of the satin cover stitch on the B when it’s converted to appliqué. The third one looks good.
Change the outline to a fill and move it behind the name but still on top of the “B.”

Create the Offset

Use the filled object with Remove Overlaps.
  1. Select the filled object created with the Offset tool. Right-click on Edit Objects toolbox > Remove overlaps. Set the overlap value to 0.
2.  Delete the offset object.

Create the Appliqué

  1. Select the “B” and click Appliqué toolbox > Convert to Appliqué.
  2. Set the properties as desired.

OPTIONAL: Turn it into a Bag Tag

  1. Add an eyelet: Digitize a circle.
  2. Add an offset around the edge.

More Ways:

What if the letter is curved? Use the Any Shape baseline to curve the baseline to mimic the shape. (Adoley for script)
The name doesn’t have to be on the left side. Here it is on the left at an angle. (Book Script)
You can even do the knock out horizontally through the center. (Pomander). This time, instead of an appliqué, I used a heart-shaped motif with an offset alternate row.

What About Other Shapes?

If you have Hatch 4, more shapes have been added to Standard Shapes, and over 350 new outline-only designs have been added to Design Explorer.  Not all shapes will work, depending on the name length. This example uses Cat_09.EMB. Start by changing the outline to a tatami fill, and then follow the previous steps.
 
Once you’ve learned the steps, you’ll find these are quick and easy to make. You’ll probably spend more time deciding on which fonts to use!

Where to Get Adoley Font

Adoley is available as an object–based font for both Hatch and Embrilliance!
Adoley 15mm ESA Font

Try Hatch for Free

Hatch works natively on Windows and runs well on Parallels on a Mac. Four levels are available to suit your needs. Upgrade as your skills and needs advance. Native EMB formats are included with LindeeG sets digitized in Wilcom software.

The post How to Create a Knockout Monogram Appliqué appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> URGENT: Shop Closing! https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/urgent-shop-closing Mon, 15 Jun 2026 19:24:34 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=206715 The post URGENT: Shop Closing! appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

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EFFECTIVE JUNE 30, 2026 the shop area on LindeeGEmbroidery.com will be eliminated. Designs can still be purchased, just not here.

WHY?

  • Fighting excessive bot/spam traffic has become overwhelming.
    • FACT: There is now more BOT traffic than human
    • Eliminating the shop will remove the ability to create fake accounts
    • Eliminating the shop significantly reduces the number of pages bots can tie up
  • The cost of maintaining plugins and utilities exceeds income.
  • The time involved is too much for a solopreneur who doesn’t want to be a full-time web developer.
  • The plan is that with no website to manage, there will be more time for design work.
  • I no longer want to work 14-hour days.

WHAT THIS MEANS FOR YOU:

  • Your account will be completely and permanently deleted.
  • Your account will not be moved.
  • You will need to download all digital files before June 30, 2026 or lose access to them.
  • No files can be emailed to you after the shutdown date.

WHERE TO GET LINDEE G DESIGNS:

LINKS IN BLOG POSTS:

Until I can edit all the blog posts on this site that link to products, expect broken links.

HOW LONG WILL THIS SITE REMAIN ACTIVE?

Good question. I don’t know. There are a lot of broken things here. The Contact Form doesn’t work. 

Also, not sure about the newsletter.

 

The post URGENT: Shop Closing! appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> Quick & Easy Monogrammed Towels https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/quick-easy-monogrammed-towels Tue, 13 Dec 2022 23:31:11 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=203993 The post Quick & Easy Monogrammed Towels appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

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When I got my first embroidery machine back in 1994, one of my early Christmas gifts was embroidering holiday designs on finger tip towels.

Seasonally embellished fingertip towels are quick and easy, are a very enconomical project and appreciated by everyone. Having a stash of these towels on hand makes it easy to whip up something for an upcoming holiday or a quick gift for a new neighbor as a house warming gift.

 

Tips:

  • Get better quality towels. They don’t cost that much more. They support the design better and launder better. You are adding embroidery to it, which improves the perceived value so don’t skimp on chintzy towels.
  • Watch for sales. I got the ones shown here for 50% off and I bought 16 of them. (Bed, Bath, & Beyond if you’re interested.)
  • Different colors may be available seasonally.
  • Use a water soluble film topping. Finger tip towels are generally less plush than the larger siblings and may not require any additional work to add a laydown stitch.
  • Many designs composed of tatami and satin stitches will work well.
  • Optional: Match your bobbin thread color. This is easier on a simple monogram. Multi-color designs make this more cumbersome.
 

Supplies:

  • Designs: These are from Christmas Wreath Monograms, the smallest size (98mm; 4”)
  • Fingertip towels
  • Backing stabilizer: I used washaway tearaway
  • Topping stabilizer: I used a water soluble film (“WST”)
  • Embroidery threads
  • Nice to have: hooping station to speed hooping and maintain consistent placement

Process:


Plan your placement.

My design is 4” and I wouldn’t go any larger than that for a fingertip towel.

I’m using a hooping station to help me get accurate and consistent design. I’ve aligned my worksheet with a full size printout of the design along the hooping guidelines to help me plan and place accurately.










For these towels, I want the design positioned approximately halfway between the stripes and the fold. I can use the guides on my hooping station to help.

Here, the bottom of the towel strips will align at the bottom red stripe. (If you have an Echidna Hooping Station, these stripes are just racing pin stripes from the automotive store that I applied myself.)

I folded a the towel i half vertically to mark the top and bottom center with a pin.




Align and secure the bottom hoop. The Echidna Hooping Station does this with magnets.










Place the backing stabilizer and secure in place.




Align your towel. I’m using the pin and stripes to align with my hooping station. You may be able to see the pin along the bottom edge of the towel at the center point.

A tip here is to take a picture with your phone so you know where to align future towels.










Add the WST, and insert the hoop. The hoop is part of the stabiilzing system so it’s always best to hoop between the rings whenever possible.




At the machine, be sure to rotate the design to match your towel rotation.
 

I’m stitching these on multi-needle machine so I’m hooping upside down. This will put the bulk of the towel (what little there is) in front of the machine so it won’t get bunched up and creep under the needle.

 
On a home machine, especially with larger towels, I will hoop sideways with the bulk to the left.










Stitch the design.

You can see this “F” is upside down.




Remove the stabilizer. Washaway tearaway tears off easily. I didn’t pick out the stuff inside the wreath; it will wash out.

One way to remove the WST from the front is to apply a wet cloth over the area and press.





Other Notes:

Depending on your towel texture and your design, you may need to add a laydown stitch behind your design to mat down the terrycloth loops and prevent your design from become lost in the nap.

I didn’t find that to be an issue with these towels. Larger towels are more likely to have a deeper, more plush pile that can benefit from a laydown stitch (also knows as “knock down”stitch).

Where to Get the Designs:


I used 4” versions for these little towels. For larger towels, try the 5” or 6” versions. This set comes with all 26 letters, each in 3 sizes.
 
Each letter has been individually sized to fit the wreath frame nicely. Designs are available as a full set (bundle), subsets by size, and, of course, individual designs. Find them here:

Designs are also available as native EMB designs, editable and resizable in Wilcom software.





Try Hatch for Free

Hatch works natively on Windows and runs well on Parallels on a Mac. Four levels are available to suit your needs. Upgrade as your skills and needs advance. Native EMB formats are included with LindeeG sets digitized in Wilcom software.

The post Quick & Easy Monogrammed Towels appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> How to Embroider a Sun Hat https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/how-to-embroider-a-sun-hat Mon, 27 Jun 2022 17:22:34 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=203067 The post How to Embroider a Sun Hat appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

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Embroidering a ball cap can be tricky on home machine but the brim of a sun hat is much easier. The trick is working out the curve. Let’s see how I did this one.
 


Start with an Easy-to-Hoop Hat:

First of all, I chose more of sun visor style. I used this one from Amazon
 

With this style, I don’t have to fight the crown of the hat during stitching. Plus, it has the added benefit of a velcro closure so I can open up the hat and flatten the brim more easily.





How to Plan Placement

The next step is to figure out how much to curve the text. I did that by taking a picture of the hat on top of a gridded cutting mat.
 
Then I used it as a background image in my embroidery software, which is Hatch. Size the image so that the grid measures 1” square.
 

Insert image and size to actual size using the grid as a reference

 

Then I typed in my text using the Hello Sweet font, enlarged it to 50mm, which is about 2″, and set the baseline type to Any Shape.

Shaping the Text to Fit

Use the Reshape tool to curve the baseline to match the brim. This font has a bouncy baseline so it will be less obvious if it doesn’t parallel the actual brim.

Hello Sweets font, 50mm, Any Shape baseline 

I like to keep this as my working file in case I need to make adjustments but I need to orient this for my hoop. Select the lettering and copy and paste it to a new design file.





 

Rotate it to fit a hoop. This design will fit a 200 x 300mm hoop.


Hooping the Hat

Print out the design at actual size to use as a placement template and tape it to your hat. 
 

Plan placement with a template. 

I used a sticky-back stabilizer since this hat cannot be hooped between the rings of the hoop. I added some painter’s tape for a little extra security. I also used a water-soluble film topping to help deal with the texture.
 

Secure in place in hoop






Stitching the Hat:

Then just stitch the design.

I do recommend that you babysit the design while it sews to make sure the hat stays flat and the WST stays in place.

You may notice that after stitching that the hat texture peeks through the stitching. I consider this just part of the character of the project. 




About the Fonts:

Hello Sweets is available as an ESA file for Hatch 2 and Wilcom 4.1 and newer or as a BX file in multiple sizes, including 50mm, the size I used in this project.
 
If you want the same file I stitched, you can get Hello Summer already curved and ready to stitch. If you use the same type of hat, you should have no problem. It may not be curved enough for other hat styles,





Where to Get these Products:



Try Hatch for Free

Hatch works natively on Windows and runs well on Parallels on a Mac. Four levels are available to suit your needs. Upgrade as your skills and needs advance. Native EMB formats are included with LindeeG sets digitized in Wilcom software.

The post How to Embroider a Sun Hat appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> How to Clean an Embroidery Hoop https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/how-to-clean-an-embroidery-hoop Wed, 19 Jan 2022 00:28:47 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=202674 Gummy hoops collect dust, fuzz, and other crud that can transfer to your project. Learn how to keep your hoops clean.

The post How to Clean an Embroidery Hoop appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> In watching various YouTube videos, I’ve seen some pretty nasty looking hoops due to adhesive build-up collecting dust, lint, and other crud. 
 
I’ve managed to avoid this scenario for the most part since I don’t spray into my hoops and seldom stick adhesive stabilizers directly to my normal hoops. I do use duct tape on my hoops from time to time and that seldom leaves a residue behind if removed promptly and as long as the hoop was clean to begin with.
 
Sticky residue on the hoop can pick up lint, dust, and grime and could leave some of that behind on your project.
 
If your hoops are still pristine, you can keep them way by never spraying into the hoop and using sticky stabilizers properly.
 

An Ounce of Prevention:

Instead of using a temporary embroidery spray adhesive, opt for a sticky stabilizer.
 
If you do need to apply spray after hooping, use some sort of hoop guard or mask. You can make a frame from a leftover piece of stabilizer or fabric that just leaves the interior work area exposed. This way the spray is only applied in the exposed area.
 
I’ve seen some embroiderers wrap their hoops with foil to protect their hoops but a piece of fabric is faster, easier, reusable, and more cost effective.
 


Instead of This:

When using an adhesive spray, alway spray into a protected area, such as a box. 

If you spray the stabilizer like this, you will also be spraying your hoop. Most temporary adhesives will dissipate within a few days from the fabric but not from the plastic hoop.

Adhesive can build up and collect gunk. Cleaning it off can take more time than protecting your hoop before spraying.


Do This:

You can protect your hoop by creating a “mask.” Here I’ve cut a “window” into a piece of fabric to focus the spray only onto the exposed stabilizer. Make sure the mask is large enough to cover the entire hoop.

When the fabric shield gets too nasty, just throw it out. 

TIP: KK2000 can be removed from fabric with a hot dry iron




 

There are after-market products you can buy to protect your hoop. One such product is the Hoop Shield.


Spray Alternatives

Two alternatives to using a spray in the hoop are glue stick and double-stick embroidery tape. Choose a wash-out glue stick. Glue sticks are faster but embroidery tape can hold more securely.
 
Also, when using sticky stabilizers with standard hoops, hoop the stabilizer between the rings, score around the inside edge of the hoop with a pin, and then peel the paper away to reveal the adhesive.
 
 


RNK Stitch Perfection Tape (Double Stick Embroidery Tape)



Specialty Hoops

There are specialty hoops for working with sticky stabilizers that are a one-piece metal frame.

With these, you simply peel off the protective sheet on the sticky stabilizer and smooth it into place on the bottom of the hoop. At some point, you may need to clean off the build up.

I have this one from DIME for my Brother and it’s very convenient. It’s fast and easy to use.

A Pound of Cure:

A quick internet search turns up all sorts of tips for cleaning gunky hoops. I’ve even seen recommendations for peanut butter and a trip through the dishwasher. 
 
It’s better to clean your hoop as soon as it starts to become sticky. The dirtier it becomes, the more work it will take to clean and you may have to expend quite a bit of elbow grease scraping. If your hoop requires scraping, take care not to use anything that could leave nicks or gouges behind.
 
Some cleaning products can leave an oily residue behind. Be sure to clean this off with soap and water.
 
Often the same products and techniques you use for removing labels off jars will work on cleaning built-up adhesives and sticky backings off your hoop.
 
When choosing a cleaning product, make sure it won’t damage your hoops. Most hoops these days are plastic but some commercial machines may have wooden hoops and the products listed below may damage wood.
 

How to Clean:

  1. White Vinegar: Use a shallow container large enough to hold your hoop and fill it with enough white vinegar to cover the entire hoop. Let them soak for 15 minutes or longer. Heating up the vinegar in the microwave or on the stove can help with tough buildup. You may need to work layers off in steps and then let the hoop(s) soak a bit longer. 
  2. Blue Dawn: Use a shallow container large enough to hold your hoop and add hot water with a generous squirt of Blue Dawn dish detergent. Follow the same steps as with the white vinegar, soaking the hoops in the sudsy water.
  3. Goo Gone Sticker Lifter or Turtle Wax Label & Sticker Remover: Simply apply the product with a rag or paper towel and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Then use a scraper. Goo Gone comes with a plastic scraper that shouldn’t cause any damage. Make sure to clean your hoop with soap and water before using it.
  4. WD40: Soak the hoops in WD40 and let sit for 30 minutes or so. Then, just wipe the hoop off clean. Make sure no residue remains.
  5. Oven Spray cleaner: Simply spray it on, let it sit 5-10 seconds, then wipe off the gunk.
  6. Rubbing alcohol: I use this more for spot cleaning. I always have a stack of packaged wipes near my machine to clean gunked up needles (just stitch through the little packet). A more cost effective method for hoops is bottled rubbing alcohol and a cloth.
  7. Baby Wipes: If you keep a stash of these on hand, you can wipe off your hoop as you go. I haven’t personally tried these on my hoops but I do use them on my Scan n Cut mats and they work well.
  8. Baking Soda: Another option is to soak the hoop in a bath of warm water and baking soda. You can also make a scrub by adding enough water to some baking soda to form a paste and then use with an old toothbrush to get into any grooves. 
  9. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser: These foam scrubbers are non-abrasive and are useful for cleaning the bottom of your iron and cutting mat in addition to your hoop.
Embroidery hoops are precision devices and can be expensive to replace. Take care of them and they will serve you well.
 

 

 

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]]> How to Stitch ITH Mini Stockings in Your Embroidery Machine https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/how-to-stitch-ith-mini-stockings-in-your-embroidery-machine Sat, 05 Dec 2020 03:33:26 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=193866 The post How to Stitch ITH Mini Stockings in Your Embroidery Machine appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

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https://youtu.be/f071aLVl0Fk

Elegant or cute and whimsical, the choice is yours! These in-the-hoop mini stockings take only small bits of fabric and are quick to make. They’re perfect for your holiday table or for mini treat bags. In this video, see how to make the basic stocking.

Download designs here: 



Try Hatch for Free

Hatch works natively on Windows and runs well on Parallels on a Mac. Four levels are available to suit your needs. Upgrade as your skills and needs advance. Native EMB formats are included with LindeeG sets digitized in Wilcom software.

The post How to Stitch ITH Mini Stockings in Your Embroidery Machine appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> Wilcom Hatch: How to Extract Design Elements from a Stitch File https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/wilcom-hatch-how-to-extract-design-elements-from-a-stitch-file Sat, 05 Dec 2020 03:10:25 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=193863 The post Wilcom Hatch: How to Extract Design Elements from a Stitch File appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

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https://youtu.be/_vB2Z0EuAWo

You can’t “ungroup” a stitch file in Hatch but you can use Hatch tools to make a design easier to edit with these simple steps. The design shown in the video is from French Curve Connection.

Designs Shown From:


Try Hatch for Free

Hatch works natively on Windows and runs well on Parallels on a Mac. Four levels are available to suit your needs. Upgrade as your skills and needs advance. Native EMB formats are included with LindeeG sets digitized in Wilcom software.

The post Wilcom Hatch: How to Extract Design Elements from a Stitch File appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> Wilcom Hatch: Why Won’t My Designs Open in Hatch? https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/wilcom-hatch-why-wont-my-designs-open-in-hatch Sat, 05 Dec 2020 03:06:00 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=193859 The post Wilcom Hatch: Why Won’t My Designs Open in Hatch? appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

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https://youtu.be/DTc6-5Pf0LU

Clicking a design file doesn’t open in Hatch? See how to open native and stitch files in Hatch.

Try Hatch for Free

Hatch works natively on Windows and runs well on Parallels on a Mac. Four levels are available to suit your needs. Upgrade as your skills and needs advance. Native EMB formats are included with LindeeG sets digitized in Wilcom software.

The post Wilcom Hatch: Why Won’t My Designs Open in Hatch? appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> ITH Monogrammed Lip Balm Holder https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/ith-monogrammed-lip-balm-holder Sat, 05 Dec 2020 03:03:10 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=193856 The post ITH Monogrammed Lip Balm Holder appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

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https://youtu.be/rDKtiRseTyI

Lindee G shows you how to make an in-the-hoop snap tab lip balm holder. These projects are thoughtfully designed so you and add a pocket to the back of any of the 4 vinyl projects shown here. Plus, you can make your pocket any size.

Set includes 2 bags (designed for fabric) + 4 accessories designed for vinyl. All can be completed in just one hooping:

Product List for Vinyl Projects

Scissors used:


Try Hatch for Free

Hatch works natively on Windows and runs well on Parallels on a Mac. Four levels are available to suit your needs. Upgrade as your skills and needs advance. Native EMB formats are included with LindeeG sets digitized in Wilcom software.

The post ITH Monogrammed Lip Balm Holder appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

]]> In-the-Hoop Pencil Case https://lindeegembroidery.com/blog/item/in-the-hoop-pencil-case Sat, 05 Dec 2020 02:47:00 +0000 https://lindeegembroidery.com/?p=193851 The post In-the-Hoop Pencil Case appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

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https://youtu.be/z3Orc7KfWEE

Lindee G shows how to make the in-the-hoop pencil case in this step-by-step project video. This ITH zip bag is fully lined with no exposed seams, has no final seam opening to tuck in and finish, and can be done in just one hooping.

Learn how to custom your bag with a back pocket, extra loops and knowing the best place to add them.

Set includes 2 bags (designed for fabric) + 4 accessories designed for vinyl. All can be completed in just one hooping.

Use this coupon code to take $10 off regular price: LGP032-10OFF

ITH Back to School Accessories

Product List:

Stabilizers & Fusibles:

Scissors used:

For Vinyl Projects Tearaway:



Try Hatch for Free

Hatch works natively on Windows and runs well on Parallels on a Mac. Four levels are available to suit your needs. Upgrade as your skills and needs advance. Native EMB formats are included with LindeeG sets digitized in Wilcom software.

The post In-the-Hoop Pencil Case appeared first on LindeeG Embroidery.

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