‘THE FINAL COLLECTION’ – PART 3

Seven weeks to go! A freak heat wave has hit England this week, which naturally leads everybody to believe it is summer and take this fact seriously indeed. There are ice-cream vans, barbecues and unnecessary amounts of gut on display, littering my usually mundane walk to university.

Getting into the spirit of things I have been donning my summer dresses and popping flowers in my hair, only to spend the day amidst a dark and somewhat gloomy sea of rather stereotypical boy-shapes in the plastic department.

This is quite a change from my comfort zone of 150 excessively girly girls on Contour Floor 5 (the sight of a male on Floor 5 who isn’t there to teach or mark a competition is so uncommon it will often lead to hundreds of pairs of eyelashes curiously staring as they pass through the room …)

With only two weeks till my photo shoot, I need to finalize the unique innovation within my product. This means putting aside my Cath Kidston measuring tape and sewing machine to brandish a beaten-up hammer and wield an electromagnetic machine (pictures below).

It’s taken me the whole week, and a repressed squeak or two, to develop the perfect prototype to fit into my bra. I try not to congratulate myself too much, but I am not going to lie — I am thrilled to absolute bits that it works.

To celebrate I even get an ice cream and have a bbq!

Six weeks to go. People ask me: ‘Have I learned much about plus-size cups pattern construction?’ And in all fairness I do feel I have, the most prominent discovery being — they are really, REALLY hard to develop and perfect.

There is a reason for the gaps in the plus-size market right now, something my research highlighted but I had never really fully comprehended until my 10th toile. I’d just been so sure this was ‘The One’ but after trying it on my fit model and seeing it still wasn’t perfect, I cracked ever so slightly and sat in a suspended state of horror, utterly defeated.

However, a frenzy of at least five pairs of arms came over to pick me back up. Everyone was offering their support, kind words and, even better, pointing out what I had missed with my sleep-deprived eyes — which was, of course, the blindingly obvious.

They say 13 is an unlucky number but the 13th sample, 390th pattern piece, for my bra was a success! There was definitely an uncool amount of celebrating on my part, before cracking down on the complementing pieces of the collection which (thankfully) also turned out fairly smoothly.

I even had a cheeky glass of champagne (or two) to celebrate….

NEXT: The Photo Shoot

[Editor’s Note: The Contour Fashion program at De Montfort University wraps up with the annual student catwalk show in London on June 7. Read Bryony's earlier installments here and here.]

‘THE FINAL COLLECTION’ – PART 2

The countdown to Final Collection officially begins in January, although from day one of university it’s been on everyone’s minds.

Inspiration folders and sketchbooks are brimming with three years’ worth of preparation, and a desire to find a unique idea for our collections. Certain subjects are banned such as fishes, circuses, butterflies and fairies, along with techniques the tutors feel have been overdone, such as plastic moulding.

Facing the aesthetic tutors can be a little intimidating when you are unfolding the details of your collection at first. Tears are just part and parcel of tutorial days as sleep-deprived girls realize that yes, you can notice that hole and no amount of lace appliqué will say otherwise … and you really, truly can NEVER have enough drawing.

Once the emotion passes and you’ve had some sleep, it becomes evident the criticism is nothing but constructive and never unnecessary. You clearly see the difference between the students who take on board what has been said and transform their collections into something awe-inspiring, and others who let their bitterness cloud their judgment and never fully develop their potential.

Our tutors demand a lot from us students so that we make the most of the opportunities they organize, which in turn develops the reputation of the course that they have worked tirelessly to build in the last 65 years.

The technical tutor, David, is a hard person to impress, having been in the course in its early days and involved in the industry ever since. He quite literally is someone who has seen it all from industry and students. This wealth of knowledge and perspective is to my advantage: he has worked with me helping me perfect the shape of my pattern, keeping in touch with my development and helping out wherever possible.

Diljit, the sewing room technician, is someone whom we worship. As our fingers are left numb from unpicking and redoing seams, the words “Leave it with me” are savored amongst us. To this day there has never been a hole too big or seam to wonky that Diljit cannot rescue. She has nurtured us from clueless little first years into (mostly) graceful third years.

With only a small percentage of sewing machines to the amount of students, the sewing rooms operate on a first-come, first-serve basis. It’s the reason that despite passing out on your desk at 5 a.m., with just one more presentation board left to finish, you find yourself first thing in the morning, waiting with sewing bobbin in hand in a bedraggled and slightly dazed state in order to get first in line for a machine ready for another 13-hour day of sewing.

There’s no doubt about it: Contour Fashion at De Montfort University is demanding.

You are required to complete the work of an entire company all by yourself; any area overlooked could be another mark dropped. Admission to the course is competitive (the year I got in they interviewed 600 students and admitted just under 40) so everyone is driven to achieve as much as they can as soon as they arrive. We were warned in our welcome speech to the course about the magnitude of the workload and the strict deadlines; you need to be strong both physically and mentally to survive the all-nighters that litter each and every term.

It’s a strange thing for most university students to grasp, but the long hours are so physically demanding it’s important to stay healthy. While focusing 24/7 on my work, my cuisine efforts aren’t wildly aspirational but I do make sure I pack myself full of enough caffeine to stay vertical throughout the day and have healthy food sent to my door to fend off any sugar lows. However, all the stress and panic are just the price we have to pay in order to spend our university years doing something we love. Our passion for lingerie keeps us motivated.

Living in a house with four other very successful girls in the course has its good and bad points. In no other house would you be able to run across the hall at 4 in the morning and ask for a bias binder, pattern master or overlocker needle and expect the person to A) be awake, B) know what you mean, and C) actually have what you are looking for.

That we are competing against each other is just a fact of life that we have to deal with, and after three years of living in each other’s pockets we’ve reached a silent understanding to keep some things to ourselves to avoid conflict. It is sad and against my nature not to share but we are always there to support each other’s triumphs, even if you have to wipe away your own tears of disappointment when you lose. You cannot spend three years of your life experiencing the highs and lows of Contour life without bonding to the people who go through it together with you.

It is a similar situation throughout the course. Fashion girls are renowned for bitchiness and while there are definitely the odd whisperings and rumors snaking under the surface here and there, Contour is a tight-knit community and everyone in the course becomes like a family: cliché perhaps, but true. Not only are we always looking out for each other, but we also share the same lax standards of personal space and appropriate nudity — only in Contour will you be sitting in Uni having a cup of tea, in a nipple tassels and knickers, whilst blandly discussing the weather….

The thought of life after Contour is a daunting one. Discussion of job opportunities, rejections and interviews are common among us. It is a worry for everyone that after three exhausting years and £30,000 of debt we’ve now got to take all our knowledge and skills and apply them in the real world.

Jobs are thin on the ground as the double-dip recession hits the UK and currently only a handful of our course-mates have ‘Life After Contour’. The competition remains intense; you would not have made it to the end if you were not good enough, but sometimes it’s hard for you to not feel inadequate just walking through the rooms looking at others’ mannequins.

However, the connections are so strong within the industry and the standard of work so high we all remain hopeful that the debt, the sleep deprivation and premature wrinkles will all be worth it.

NEXT: 7 Weeks To Go

FIRST IN A SERIES

I am a final year lingerie design student at De Montfort University in Leicester, England, one of a very few universities in the world to offer a degree specializing in the construction and design of lingerie.

The Contour Fashion bachelor’s degree program, established in 1947, offered a new route for final year students to take this year. Instead of the traditional aesthetic route, in which students create a capsule collection consisting of six outfits and a chance of a spot on the final runway show, the program offered a new technical route that focuses on product innovation. Students who chose this specialty are required to create and develop a niche lingerie product, with a presentation to a panel of industry experts.

I jumped at the chance to follow the technical route as soon as it was mentioned. My project: taking on the challenge of a creating DD+ size strapless bra — attempting to defy gravity.

Whilst a few people not-so-jokingly advised that this was “impossible,” for me, underwear has always been about more than merely “cushion covers.” Underwear lies closest to the skin, it forms the foundation of far more than an outfit; I believe a gorgeous set of custom fitting underwear can transform a woman’s life.

The inspiration for my final collection comes from lights and lightness. Exploring Paris while visiting the Interfilière and Moda lingerie trade shows, I was drawn to the beautiful lights of the city: from the candles full of memories flickering inside the Sacre Coeur, to the art nouveau lampposts along the Seine.

I visited lantern exhibitions in Manchester; drew Gothic lampposts on the streets of London; dug out photographs of Chinese lanterns from my travels. The more I looked into them the more I realized the concept of “Lights” complimented the technical aspect of my project.

Lanterns from Bryony’s sketchbook

The tutors push us to think outside the box when it comes to collection inspiration and will ruthlessly shoot down ideas which don’t have enough depth or originality. Their focus is on primary research: if you can see it, smell it and feel it, you can draw it and draw inspiration from it. This push for originality is one of the best parts about university: allowing your imagination to create “blue sky” designs, without the constraints we know we will face when entering industry.

A large part of the final collection marks are allocated to market research: the practical side and the realistic implications of our designs and where they might succeed in the lingerie market. Designers, catwalks, high street retailers, boutiques, online suppliers, trend analysis, financial figures , selling statistics, media and even celebrity culture need to be digested and the gap in the market for your product justified. It is important not to dampen your creativity with this information, rather use it to your advantage to give your product a sense of realism outside of university walls.

On the technical route this research is critical for forming the platform from which to develop our innovative product. I visited bridal catwalks in London to see first-hand the trends and in turn the demand for foundation wear; toasted champagne whilst pretending to get married at bridal shows; and interviewed bridal shop owners, plastic surgeons and sports science researchers. I dug up research on the cultural differences in breast shapes, along with couture and vintage detailing from the darkest depths of our library.

Next, I designed a survey to gauge what customers felt were the real issues with plus-size bras. The response was phenomenal; within two days I’d had hundreds of women from all over the world fill it in. In addition, an enormous amount of e-mail traffic was generated by people asking me how they could get involved, feeding back personal experiences in different countries and even taking the time to take measurements and details. It was overwhelmingly touching, not to mention providing me with a crucial viewpoint into what consumers felt were the real issues.

All this research led to my own experiments with plus-size breasts: how to manage, how to shape, how to support … all without straps.

Scouring stands at Interfilière Paris for new technology for three years running, I started experimenting with ideas in my quest to defy gravity. I interviewed architects and looked into aspects of building design (no scaffolding, though!) looking for any structures or techniques I could apply to lingerie. I deconstructed and analysed the patterns of successful plus-size bras already on the market, using the successful elements as a starting point to base my development on.

David, the tutor for the Contour Fashion technical students, is particularly keen to stress the emphasis on innovation — without completely reinventing of the wheel in four months. For my own twist on the designs I added an extra innovation which has been lacking in plus-size strapless … but more on that later.

Armed with all my research I began developing the patterns. That in itself has been the most exhausting of all journeys. Plus-size cups ( 30GG to be precise) are very hard to perfect. Especially without straps.

It’s been similar to a roller coaster as one minute I’m jumping up and down when a toile (test garment) successfully does what its supposed to … with just a few seemingly minor tweaks required … and the next I’m crashing in class as it becomes alarmingly apparent that those minor tweaks are still VERY much there two toiles later.

However, for every contour-induced breakdown I’ve had, there’s been at least five pairs of arms come rushing to pick me back up and help me smooth things out. Between all the girls on the course and the tutors, in one month I made it through 13 toiles for ONE bra.

What does that mean, exactly? It meant painstakingly re-measuring, shaping, printing, cutting out and sewing up 390 pattern pieces to get the closest-to-perfect pattern I possibly could ready for photo-shoot day.

MONDAY: Behind-the-scenes at De Montfort’s Contour Fashion program.

Tyra Banks made headlines yesterday with an important ‘open letter to models’ in The Daily Beast, supporting the decision by Vogue to ban models who appear to have an eating disorder.

Most news outlets picked up on Tyra’s admission that she probably would have been too “heavy” to get work if she were starting out in modeling today.

But there’s a more vital message further down in Tyra’s letter: urging mothers to “use their power” to help young girls develop healthy and realistic attitudes about body shapes. We’ve reprinted those remarks below.

Very, very wise words from someone who knows what she’s talking about, uses her celebrity purposefully and, as owner of America’s Next Top Model, is in a position to make a difference.

“To moms everywhere, we need to educate our girls not to fall prey to thinspirational images of beauty.

So where do we start? By being very careful about how we talk about our own bodies in front of our daughters. We can show our daughters diverse images of beautiful women: curvy, tall, short, and everything in-between.

Moms, you are the first and most influential role model in your girl’s life. Use that power. Teach her to love herself and everything that makes her unique.

To young girls everywhere, it’s sad that our bodies go in and out of style, just like fashion trends. One season we’re supposed to be a zero, and the next you’re supposed to be a six. Then you’re supposed to have a six-pack, but wait, now you’re supposed to be juicy … with a booty! It makes us feel crazy. Many of you are saying, “What the heck am i supposed to be?” Exactly who you are right now: that’s who you need to be. 

There are so many models out there with bodies that aren’t stick figures. There’s Lara Stone, who has unique features like the gap between her front teeth, and she’s not a stick. And I love Doutzen Kroes and Kate Upton’s bodies. They’re softer than most girls these days. Kate Dillon is a gorgeous plus-size model, or, as I like to call her, “fiercely real.”

I’ve been using the word “flawsome” a lot. It’s you + your flaws + awesome = Flawsome. I have a big forehead, and I got made fun of all time. When I was a little girl, they used to call me “five-head.” I’ve been teased my whole life, but I continue to rock it with pride. Years ago one of my agents told me that my forehead was what got me signed.

Now it’s up to you. Take your “flaw,” and turn it on its (fore)head. And never forget that you are fabulous, you are fierce, you are flawsome.”

Yes ladies, the bittersweet reality of swimwear season is upon us!

With hot weather and outdoor lifestyles around the corner after a long winter of hibernating, it can be a shock getting used to the idea of “exposing all” in a few short weeks.

Now … how to lessen that anxiety and make the most of your fun in the sun? In a word: get some expert help.

Don’t be afraid to embrace your curves by taking the time to be fit for a swimsuit that suits your body, your comfort level, and your lifestyle.

While bra fittings have become common practice, swimwear shopping at the best of times can be daunting. Often, the closer a woman is to a “perfect 10″, the more critical she can be when seeking the perfect suit. Alternatively, a woman who has struggled with her weight for years may choose to focus on fewer criteria when shopping, as she feels she has to settle only for a bathing suit that “fits”.

Just as being fit by an expert bra fitter offers solutions that you never thought imaginable, the same magic can apply to swimwear.

So, to answer the question of whether you have the luxury of being selective when it comes to your swimwear purchase, the answer is a resounding YES! In fact, the most difficult part of your fitting should be making the final decision!

If your curiosity is piqued, and a swimsuit fitting is on your “to-do list”, keep an open mind but also keep in mind what the trends are telling us this season. Here’s a roundup of this season’s leading style trends:

Like in outerwear, colors trend in and out of swimwear fashion. Keeping this is mind, it is always important to work with not only your preference, but your color palette. Bold solid colors are being showcased this season, with corals (autumn color) and cobalts (winter color) standing out as favorites. If understated elegance is your taste, gravitate toward the taupes and soft floral prints that we saw on the runways this spring.

When it comes to bikinis, women are not only mixing different styles on the top and bottom in order to best complement their figure, but different color palettes as well. Let’s face it, we all have our strengths and weaknesses, and color blocking or ombre prints, used to distract the eye to certain areas or details, offers a very contemporary yet flattering effect.

While it is now common practice to mix and match tops and bottoms when exploring bikinis or tankinis, don’t worry if it’s just not working out. The full one-piece has had a complete revival, and can not only be a very flattering and slimming look, but also very sexy! In addition, retro-inspired swimwear, with high-waisted bikinis, stripes and polka dots, offer some coverage and exude confidence by still showing off a little tummy.

Once the swimwear has been selected, the fun begins! Cover-ups and cruisewear — what we wear over our suit from poolside to bar side, and even out to dinner in many cases — complete the look and make travelling seamless. Less is more when it comes to packing, and versatile maxi dresses and kaftans are definitely all the rage right now.

Speaking of vacationing, it is crucial to have a checklist! You’ve packed your shades, beach bag, sandals, and jewellery. Now, what swimwear to bring?? Whether work, play, girls getaway, family holiday, or sheer romance, your swimwear wardrobe may not break your trip, but it can certainly make it! A few ideas to keep in mind…

• While the halter may be the most flattering or the most supportive bra style, do you need a bandeau for tanning?
• While you’ve invested in a gorgeous quality toe dipper, if the kids are on board, make sure you also have room for a bit of “functionality”! A beautifully supportive tankini comes in handy for quick washroom breaks, playing in the pool, and kids climbing all over you!
• While the full one-piece is most comfortable, should you be brave and bring that sexy black bikini you’ve always been not quite ready to wear?
• While black is your staple here at home, a sexy red or white, fun floral print, or soft feminine pastel may be just what the doctor ordered to put both you and your company in the mood!

Don’t fall into the habit of waiting until the very last moment (if at all) to begin the thankless search for the perfect swimsuit. Instead, indulge in the experience and take time for yourself. With the proper fit and the right style to suit your figure and lifestyle, you may surprise yourself and find that you look better than you thought possible!

Truth be told, all women share the same desire to feel beautiful. Why not make that a priority and a reality this season as you embrace your curves in the sun!

Styles Shown (from top):

• Karla Colletto, ‘Outlines’ collection
• Shan, ‘Anemone’ collection
• Vix, ‘Betsey’ collection
• Vix, ‘Betsey’ collection
• Seafolly, ‘Sophia’ collection
• Vix, ‘Uluwatu’ maxi-dress
• Jets, ‘Lighthouse’ collection

Melmira Bra & Swim Boutique is a Toronto lingerie salon. Melmira’s staff offers expert bra shopping and fitting advice to Lingerie Talk readers each month.

The French sure do love a good revolution, especially when it involves a populist uprising against a privileged elite. Or, as they are singing ensemble in Paris today, Au revoir, M. Sarkozy!

So it was downright saucy of couture lingerie designer Chantal Thomass to commission this opulent, over-the-top photo shoot that recalls the grand decadence of pre-revolution Versailles.

The campaign, shot by Ellen von Unwerth, sets Thomass’ stunningly original styles in an ornate mid-18th Century salon, with models sporting pompadours and military tricorne hats while gorging on petits fours. You can almost hear the barbarians storming the palace gates outside.

The campaign features pieces from Thomass’ fall-winter 2012 collection and it’s bound to spark some animated discussion among politically savvy libertines who appreciate witty visuals. But it probably won’t cause any riots in the streets of Paris, except among shoppers.

After all, as these images remind us, the state — whether it’s led by a fatted monarch or an underachieving president — has no business in the bedrooms of the nation.

If you’re young, blonde and white, consider yourself lucky: you’ve won the trifecta of sexiness. If you’re none of those things, give up already.

At least that seems to be the message in Victoria’s Secret‘s annual “What Is Sexy?” list, which features a bevy of slinky blonde Hollywood up-and-comers — and almost no one else.

According to the lingerie retailer’s definition, sexiness today covers the vast human spectrum that ranges from Blake all the way to Britney, from Amber to Stacy, from Ashley to Annalynne. Let’s face it, if you’re on Leonardo DiCaprio‘s speed-dial, you’re probably on this list too.

Think I’m exaggerating? Here are the facts:

Of the 17 individuals on the 2012 “What Is Sexy?” list, 15 are either full-time or sometime blondes. (Only redhead Jessica Chastain and brunette Olivia Wilde offset the monochrome parade.)

Only one person in the homogenous group is non-white: the mixed-race icon Beyoncé. There are no African-American women, no Latinas, no Rihanna.

Thus, you won’t find Eva Longoria, Jennifer Lopez or Selena Gomez in this lineup. Same goes for Jennifer Hudson, Paula Patton, Kerry Washington, Gabrielle Union or anyone else from America’s nearly 20-million-strong community of black women. Instead, ethnic diversity is represented by such figures as German ice-blonde Diane Kruger and platinum-blonde Swedish blogger Elin Kling.

With a couple of exceptions, the women on the list are all single and without children. There are no gay women, only one person shorter than 5’4″ (Kristen Bell) and no full-figured, plus-sized or even genuinely buxom women. The “sexiest curves”, according to Victoria’s Secret, this year belong to svelte actress Amber Heard.

The average age of women on the list is 28, although that figure drops if you include the cast members of Pretty Little Liars (who were named “Sexiest TV Cast”). Only five women on the 2012 list are over 30 years old, the eldest being Charlize Theron at 36.

That may explain why Eva Mendes, Penelope Cruz, Kate Beckinsale, Jennifer Aniston, Denise Richards or Aishwarya Rai didn’t make the cut this year — ALL of those celebrated beauties are older than EVERYONE in the Victoria’s Secret universe of sexiness.

To be sure, all of the women on the 2012 “What Is Sexy?” list are physically attractive, and many are genuinely accomplished. But it’s hard not to see this as a shallow — and woefully unimaginative — lineup that exposes a kind of bigotry at the heart of Victoria’s Secret‘s cynical marketing.

The razor-thin demographic segment represented by the women on this list is conveniently similar to the one occupied by the leggy blonde Angels who model for Victoria’s Secret (there’s an eerie moment in the video below when Candice Swanepoel holds up a photo of lookalike Jennifer Lawrence), but it bears no resemblance to the remaining 99.99% of the female population.

When Victoria’s Secret asks the rhetorical question “what is sexy?”, the answer is obvious — and outrageous. It’s: “People like us. Not people like you.”

The “What Is Sexy?” campaign has changed drastically since Victoria’s Secret introduced it seven years ago.

When the company announced its first “What Is Sexy?” list in 2006, they seemed to take the question seriously. It wasn’t enough to merely declare the “sexiest man alive” (as People did), or the “sexiest woman alive” (as Esquire did), or list the world’s top 100 hotties (as Maxim and all the other lads’ mags did).

Instead, Victoria’s Secret set out to define “sexy” for the modern age by providing a set of familiar cultural reference points. After all, sexiness may be a timeless quality, but it’s also fluid, subjective and heavily influenced by changes in both fashion trends and celebrity popularity.

Thus, in its broad first campaign, the company covered a lot of bases. It bestowed the “sexy” crown on both male and female winners in four categories (music, acting, sports, TV), identified the sexiest U.S. and foreign cities, and chose the sexiest food (chocolate), music video, movie (Unfaithful) and even car.

It was an odd list (where else could you find both Shakira and Jay Leno as co-winners in the same contest?), but you could tell they put some thought into it. Back then, “sexiness” wasn’t just a collection of smooth body parts; it was a reflection of character, style, humor, presentation and self-confidence.

The list was also a strategic marketing coup for Victoria’s Secret. People talked about it, debated the choices, secretly compared themselves to those who made the list. More than any other corporate brand in America, Victoria’s Secret — which, it should be remembered, sells underwear — became the presumptive authority on the subject of “sexy”.

Since the first “What Is Sexy?” list appeared, that question has been at the core of all of the company’s relentless marketing, to the point where the brand and the question gradually morphed into one self-referencing, self-promoting concept. What is sexy? Victoria’s Secret is sexy.

In its first few years, Victoria’s Secret had fun with the question and its annual list. Plenty of men were included, along with sexy athletes, couples and parents. David Beckham was named sexiest dad in 2007, a year before wife Victoria was chosen sexiest mom.

And there were some off-the-wall selections that showed the company was being creative with its choices: Matthew McConaughey was named “best beach body” in 2007, Stephen Colbert earned “sexiest funny guy” in 2009 and Padma Lakshmi was named sexiest chef in 2010. Even Ellen De Generes made the list in the same year as Christina Hendricks and ScarJo.

The most ambitious attempt to create a lasting blueprint that would define sexiness for the ages came in 2009, when Victoria’s Secret presented twin lists that matched current celebrities with icons from the past. Brigitte Bardot and Angelina Jolie were twin winners in the “sexiest lips” category, while Kate Winslet was paired with Marilyn Monroe for “sexiest actress”. Most fun were the oddball pairings that triggered countless debates: Cary Grant/Kelly Ripa for “sexiest smile” and Jim Morrison/Beyoncé for “sexiest musician”.

Since 2009, however, the “What Is Sexy?” list has become little more than a scorecard of who’s-hot-now among the red carpet crowd.

The company no longer includes men on the list, or athletes or anyone who doesn’t appeal directly to the 90210 audience. Instead, “what’s sexy today” are established, currently popular female stars who validate the mainstream tastes of Victoria’s Secret‘s youthful customer base — role models whose generic looks can be achieved with a bottle of hair color and some lacey underthings.

But not every Hollywood bombshell passes that test, which is why you won’t find Nicki Minaj or anyone like her here. She’s too short, she’s the wrong color and, let’s face it, she doesn’t need a push-up bra.

Each of us owes an incalculable debt to our moms, and Mother’s Day often seems like an insufficient way to pay them back. Still, it’s a good time to celebrate what should be a lifelong acknowledgement of the woman who gave us life and set us on the path toward our own dreams.

This is especially true for people who work in the lingerie industry, a great many of whom were inspired by or worked closely with their mothers to learn their craft and build their businesses.

Lingerie Talk invited lingerie professionals to tell us, in their own words, how their moms made a difference in their lives and careers. We talked to designers, retailers and executives, both men and women, from Canada to California to the United Kingdom.

We think you’ll agree the stories below are heartfelt, inspiring and probably remind you of how your mom helped you!

We begin with a deeply moving story of a dynamic mother who helped create her daughter’s award-winning lingerie label … but did not live to see its launch.

Reenagh McCall, owner/designer, Embrace

My mother, Rita Kelly McCall, was a lady with style. The youngest of 7 and small in stature, she was affectionately referred to as ‘little Rita’ by my Dad. Once on a transatlantic crossing with her equally petite sister, their luggage never appeared, so ‘the girls’ pooled their money, bought out the scarf section in the gift shop and created different daily outfits for the voyage. This was true to form; she never bought an outfit she didn’t alter in some way to make her own.

But her heart was big, her humour grand and her compassion enormous. A stay-at-home Mom until I entered university and she began her new career as an inventor, Rita had always broken down barriers. Between her strength of character and perfect diction she could convince people to do things they never really intended to. In conflict she always retained composure and her voice was never raised, which was useful when she had to break down so many conservative views.

I fondly remember her convincing a round table of suits that her bra invention was patentable. Arriving with mannequin and prosthesis and pinning away before them, caught up in the moment, she handed a silicon breast to one of the senior partners to hold for a moment. Red faces and muffled murmurs aside, the patent was granted and went on to produce award-winning and top selling bras.

My mother died in 2007 and my daughter, Sophia, was born on what would have been her 80th birthday and 50th wedding anniversary. My inspiration to set up Embrace was to finish what my incredible Mother started. Technology has moved on and the opportunity to enhance, improve and update her concepts was obvious. More importantly I didn’t want the dream to die.

It had all begun with Rita having a dream and waking in the early hours to scribble down the design on a newspaper beside her bed. Now nursing my baby in hospital, I had my own moment of inspiration and saw how the concept could be applied to maternity and breast support now that technology had caught up with the concept. Embrace now has a portfolio of patents and patent applications and our belief in these and courage to develop new ideas was inspired by my Mom.

Rita was a small woman from a small country — but she had a grand idea. We worked together and stood face-to-face with corporations and legal teams, dealt with licenses and assignments, and fought infringers and won. Just little old her and little old me saw the impossible become reality because we believed in the concept and the opportunity to improve women’s lives.

I miss my Mom very much, but there are times when I know she’s with me. Last year, Embrace won the most creative design award at the Ultra Show during the Salon Internationale exhibition in Paris, and in February our new patent pending support and maternity concepts were chosen as one of the top three product innovations in Ireland for the Irish Times all-island awards.

I know she was there to see it all happen; but it’s the small moments when my son Kaelan, 9, chooses colour combinations for our collection or my daughter Sophia, now 4 ¾, pins lace to a mannequin that I think she smiles the most.

Editor’s Note: Based in Connemara, Embrace reached market in 2010 with an award-winning range of bra designs featuring its patented Internal Support System (ISS) that offers floating lift and support — based on Rita’s original inventions from the 1990s. Since then, daughter Reenagh has added the patent-pending Up Cup maternity line and the Move Me strap alternative.

Alison Rubke, co-owner, Faire Frou Frou

Definitely many people owe what they’ve become to their moms, but my career as the co-owner of Faire Frou Frou would not have been possible without mine!

My mom Gail and I have always wanted to be in business together, but years ago when I was still working as a tax analyst, I didn’t see how it would be a possibility.

It wasn’t until one New Year’s Day that my mom and I were discussing resolutions. I had wanted a change in my career, but it was my mom who asked the pivotal question “If you could do any job that you’ve always wanted to do, and if money and a degree were not a factor, what would it be?”

It had been my dream to own a beautiful boutique, but certainly it could not be a reality … that was until my mom kept asking why not. She dared me to live the life I had dreamt about, and she helped me come up with solutions for the roadblocks I imagined. In no time flat, I had arranged to leave my cushy position at a large firm and start on my own business — with little/no experience, but the drive and belief that I could accomplish what I set out to do.

Once that hurdle was passed, my mom then helped develop the concept of Faire Frou Frou. She came up with the name (she was taking French lessons at the time), she created our logo by hand (you see our initials in the crown!), she designed the store interior, she helped pick out the brands we would carry (she discovered our two early favorite brands Carine Gilson and Vannina Vesperini, back when I thought those brands might be too expensive to carry … lesson learned).

These are just a few examples of how instrumental my mom was (and is) in my career. It’s a rewarding experience to be part of a mother/daughter business, and a dream fulfilled for me!

Gregory Gimble, Vice-President, Va Bien

My parents Marianne and Richard founded Va Bien together in the 1970s. I grew up around the business and saw first-hand what was required to grow it from the ground up into an international success.

The dedication that my mother displayed during those formative years – and that she continues to display – are a strong influence on me. It brought home the lesson not just that dedication drives success, but also that passion drives dedication.

She loves Va Bien and cares deeply about the customers who wear our products to their special occasion events; her passion for supporting those women drives her dedication, which thereby drives her success.

Right: Greg and Marianne Gimble today.

Silvia Campello, VP Operations, Cosabella

It is difficult to be concise with such a transforming topic. Firstly, I watched my mother Valeria live the American Dream. Is there anything more inspiring and ingraining to a maturing child than seeing their parent exemplify the ‘work hard’ philosophy and truly be successful?

Over 30 years, I watched her part-time garage office hobby transform into a globally recognized business that ultimately enveloped my father Ugo and all of her children. This was not simply an American dream come true. It was also a Mother’s dream!

Secondly, she always said that “you need to do a job that you either love very much or a job that gives you the freedom to do the things you love in your spare time.” I definitely took this advice. Not only do I work full time in the family business, I also practice as an acupuncture physician on the weekends.

Thanks to her love, support and guidance I am fortunate enough to have the freedom to love both!

Editor’s Note: That’s Val and Silvia today in the main photo at the top of this feature. Above, a note written in Grade 2 by Silvia that offers a hint at her own future. Now approaching its 30th anniversary, the management of Cosabella will soon be passed on to Silvia and her brother Guido.

Laura Mehlinger, designer/owner, Lola Haze

By the 1980s, my mom (Dianne Yee Mehlinger) had elevated the home-ec knowledge instilled in all women of her generation to fiber art. We would visit the Maryland sheep and wool festival where she would buy raw wool. Then, while I watched “Sesame Street,” she would spin it on her creaky wooden spinning wheel, weave it on her loose-limbed loom or knit it into an artisanal sweater for me. I would complain that the sweater was scratchy.

Where other girls had toy kitchens or Lego sets, I grew up in a world of bright fabrics, textured yarns, sewing patterns, embroidery floss. I started sewing when I was 4, and to this day am still playing with fabric.

My mom, now retired, continues to create beautiful fiber art, and shows up to keep me company and act as “Sales Mom” at CurvExpo. Thank you, Mom, for introducing me to my love and my vocation. Thank you for being one of my biggest supporters.

Amie, Leah, Holly and Marnie Heenan, Melmira Bra and Swimsuits

Growing up, the four Heenan girls were used to having a “working mom”. With an entrepreneurial spirit, and inspired by her own mother’s lingerie business out West, Melanie Heenan opened her own lingerie store in Toronto in 1997.

Holly reflects: “We were always encouraged to get an education and follow our dreams. The business was never an option for us.”

The four girls, each with their own interests, pursued educations in various disciplines. One by one, and slowly over time, each daughter decided to join the family business.

“Because of the established nature, we really had to prove ourselves. The learning curve was exponential, and I never worked harder or more enjoyed working than when I joined the family business,” said Marnie.

Leah likes to keep in mind Melanie’s philosophy when she feels challenged or burned out by the now 30-employee medium-sized business. Her mother believes that business was not brain science, but rather involves finding a niche, believing in what you do, and not being afraid to work very very hard. Leah is inspired by this every day.

Amie, Melanie’s eldest daughter and mother of two daughters under two years old, is very proud to be a working mom. She would like for her girls to watch her work hard at becoming a successful business woman, and hopes that one day they two will be inspired by their mother.

Melanie Heenan’s four daughters own Melmira Bra and Swimsuits, a women’s boutique in north Toronto.

Pom Lampson, owner, Sexy Panties and Naughty Knickers

My mother Melita has the most incredible eye for style and has taught me to look at the world in a certain way.

I used to travel all over the place taking pictures to show her visually what I had seen, as opposed to describing it on paper. This translated into a meticulous eye for detail in all my designs, and creating knickers that people would want to show off to all of their friends, rather than just telling them about their fabulous colour.

Most of all my mother taught me the bravery I needed to succeed at setting up a lingerie business from scratch with no formal design background.

Right: Pom in her hot pink Monroe nightie.

Sarah Platt, owner, SF Showroom

My mother has always been my best friend, mentor and inspiration. Upon retiring as the Chief Clerk of the District Courts of Maryland, my mother Patti decided to open up a lingerie boutique that focused on bra fitting and hard-to-fit sizes. Being a larger busted woman, she hated bra shopping because she could never find a place that carried her size or, if she did find her size, the bras were ugly and not supportive. She thought that if she felt this way, there must be many other women with the same frustrations. She was right and 10 years later, A La Mode Intimates is still catering to women of all shapes and sizes.

I was planning on traveling to Thailand to teach English when my mother decided to start her business. To be honest, I was more passionate about traveling than I was about teaching. So, when she asked if I would like to help her start a lingerie business instead, I jumped at the opportunity. I had always wanted to know how to start a business and what could be more fun than starting a lingerie boutique with your best friend and mentor?

I learned so much over the years and I fell in love with the lingerie business. I was a buyer, marketing manager, event planner, certified bra fitter, shop manager and I learned the importance of mastering inventory levels of a bra fitting store that carries 104 sizes! (Not an easy task).

As much fun as it was to work with my mother, I missed the Sierras and the Pacific Ocean, so back to California I went. I started managing retail stores, including the first H&M’s on the West coast and I went back to school to earn my Masters in Marketing. In 2008 the economy took a fall and I decided to go back to Maryland to help my mother with the boutique. A la mode got back on track and once again California was calling me.

I didn’t like working for big corporations and I loved the lingerie world, so I decided try my hand as a brand representative. I represent fabulous brands and I still get to work every day with my mother; this time as her rep! Whenever I need a boutique owner or buyer’s perspective, she is just a phone call away with helpful suggestions and answers. Although we are not working in the store together, we are still working together every day.

I feel so blessed to have found a job I absolutely love and am passionate about; a job that doesn’t feel like work, but fun. I owe my happiness in work and life to my mother. She always taught me to follow my dreams and to not be afraid to take risks. She taught me this invaluable life lesson not just through words, but through her own actions. I couldn’t be more proud or in awe of her.

I am the luckiest woman in the world to have such a strong, independent, and supportive mother. Although we are on separate sides of the country, I feel closer to her than anyone and the best part of my job is it’s a good excuse to call her multiple times a day.

Sarah is an executive account manager for intimate apparel, accessory, clothing and maternity lines.

Tiffany Ajmo, vice-president, Blush Lingerie

My brother Justin and I have been involved in the family business Blush ever since we were teenagers … working summers to help out in the shipping room, and as soon as we graduated from university, plunging into full-time work.
 
Our father Edward was always very involved in the business, thus not very present at home. Our mom Lydia was and continues to be the backbone of our family, making sure we were always well fed, well dressed and helping us through the difficult school years. She was  by our sides through it all!
 
Once we both started families of our own, along with our full-time careers, running the business presented many challenges. But our mom always came to the rescue! She was the one who would help out in all areas. She would be present in the business, but always available and so willing to help us with our children. The business is so demanding on our time; along with long hours at the office and very frequent business trips, without our mom’s support and help all this would not have been possible.
 
She is truly the sunshine of our lives, along with her outstanding smile and very positive attitude, she gets us through every aspect of our careers! This is a very volatile business, with many ups and downs. It is very difficult emotionally, but our mother is present in our lives on a daily basis and is there to pick us up when we feel down and to celebrate with us when we feel happy!
 
The hardest job in the entire world is being a mom and she truly has shown us that for her, it is not a job, but the biggest pleasure that life has to offer. We are forever grateful to our mom who we adore to pieces!

Founder Edward Ajmo handed over the management of Montreal-based Blush to Tiffany and Justin in 2001.

The way she’s going, Kriss Soonik is going to have to come with a new word to describe her utterly unrivaled, offbeat undergarments.

It’s not just lingerie, and it’s grown beyond the loungerie label that Soonik has been using to define her collections.

What would you call lacey lounging pieces that don’t look out of place on a beach, paired with rubber boots?

The London-based designer traveled to her native Estonia in April to shoot this highly original campaign called On The Beach, which showcases her all-navy range for S/S 2012.

If there’s a message in this campaign, it’s that Soonik’s creations fit in anywhere. And if her open-backed, hooded Inge wrap or the popular Diana Wings robe aren’t enough to leave a lasting impression, the big plastic blow-up whale or the fresh fish certainly will.

This label has been expanding its catalogue gradually, refining popular styles and adding new ones sparingly. There are some new additions on the KS webshop these days, including the beautiful Lotta lace-and-mesh suspender top that evolved from last season’s Kristel top.

And here’s something worth waiting for: Soonik’s not-to-be-missed bridal collection, which will debut later this week. As always with this terrific label, expect the unexpected.

The gods and goddesses of ancient mythology are big business once again, thanks to CGI-powered blockbuster films like The Immortals, Wrath of the Titans and many others like them.

But those cartoonish epics play like superhero movies, with a bit of otherworldy sex thrown in for the date-night crowd. It’s easy to forget that the characters depicted in those sagas were gods — the objects of worship, sacrifice and deeply religious fervor — and not just animated action figures. In the minds of their subjects 3,000 years ago, the sun literally rose and set each day on their command.

Victoria Holt‘s luxury lingerie label Fred & Ginger has tried to restore some dignity to the gods of yore with — get this — a ravishing, high-fashion swimwear collection that would make Aphrodite blush.

F&G’s collection is called Midas Touch, and it includes four one-pieces and three bikinis inspired by ancient deities. They’re all spectacularly sexy costumes made from glittering stretch mesh and shimmering olive and charcoal Lycra, which, as everyone knows, really is the fabric of the gods.

This is F&G’s first attempt to create a swimwear line to complement its luxurious lingerie styles, and it draws its inspirations from a variety of both mortal and celestial figures. It’s meant to reference the decadence of King Midas as well as the glamor and elegance embodied by Elizabeth Taylor in the film epic Cleopatra.

In terms of mythological inspirations, F&G offers three suits named after Greek deities (Apollo, Aphrodite, Athena), three more named for their Roman counterparts (Aurora, Juno, Venus) and one, Freya, named for the Norse goddess of love and fertility.

That’s the kind of mix-and-matching that cost me marks on my Classics final in college, but I don’t think anyone who loves fashion-forward swimwear is going to notice. Virgil and Homer might quibble, but up there on Olympus, Zeus and Liam Neeson are nodding approvingly.

Here’s a look at the Midas Touch collection, which you can find for sale on F&G’s webshop. It’s followed by a gallery showing Fred & Ginger’s Candy Girl line, their spring lingerie collection for 2012.

“Candy Girl” Collection – Fred & Ginger S/S 2012