Multitude of colors, various surface types and the ability to withstand everything starting from spilt juice and boiling oil to cat scratches and fallen knifes makes the linoleum a perfect choice for your kitchen. So, how can you avoid losing yourself in all this variety and what linoleum will be the best for your kitchen?

Main Requirements for Kitchen Linoleum

Any kitchen is a zone of increased danger. There’s always something spilling or dropping, forks and spoons falling, children and pets running, not to mention evelated humidity. So, when you choose linoleum for your kitchen and dining room, make sure to take multiple flooring specifications into consideration. Your linoleum must be:

• Moisture proof: The flooring must be resistant to any liquid. It must not rot or cause any fungal growth on the floor;
• High mechanical abrasion resistance, especially to falls or movements of various items: Something always happens at the kitchen, be it falling silverware or breaking plates, moving tables or chairs. These actions must not damage the linoleum floor. It must remain without any scratches, dents and cracks;
• Anti-slip properties: We’re always moving while at the kitchen, rushing from the table to the fridge. If you have children, the whole thing with constant activity at the kitchen just gets much more complicated. So, the ideal kitchen flooring must be raised and have an anti-slip surface, so that the spilled liquid won’t be dangerous for you and your family;
• Detergent tolerance: Chances are you’ll be using various detergents, including chlorine, to clean the kitchen linoleum. As such, any high-quality flooring must tolerate any aggressive chemicals;
• Ecological safety: We spend a lot of time at the kitchen. The flooring must be safe for your health and environment. For examples, many cheap floorings release toxins in the air, and as time goes on, the owners start to feel progressively worse;
• Wear resistance: Elevated activity levels require your linoleum to be both durable and wear resistant. It is especially important if you have children or pets, or if you constantly have guests.

Classification of Kitchen Linoleum

Before we decide what type of linoleum will have the biggest chance of settling in your kitchen, it’d be better to learn the various types of this flooring. Nowadays we use several types and classes of linoleum. Take a look at the spreadsheet below to familiarize yourself with the various properties of this flooring:

Linoleum classification // original content

Natural Linoleum

Benefits

• Natural linoleum is a perfect “future material” for your cozy kitchen. Natural jute, textile or even unwoven layer substrate, natural oils and resins will make the floor completely safe for you, your family and your pets;
• Natural flooring is extremely resistant to wear and abrasion. It is invulnerable to dirt and fat, water and detergents, and you’ll have to be Hulk to rip the natural linoleum apart;
• Natural linoleum is a great heat and sound insulating material. It also has bactericidal properties, which means the natual linoleum will not rot and suffer from various fungi;
• Natural linoleum is extremely durable. It will serve you for at least 30-40 years.

PRO TIP: High-quality natural linoleum emits a slight pleasant aroma of linen oil. It will disappear some time after the linoleum has been laid out.

Drawbacks

• Natural linoleum is expensive;
• Natural linoleum can’t tolerate alkaline detergents;
• Natural linoleum isn’t elastic enough. It might be harder to install it.

Natural linoleum // connersflooringanddesign.com

Synthetic Linoleum

Synthetic linoleum is made of various materials – for example, PVC, alkyd, colloxylic and rubber. The specialists recommend that you focus on PVC linoleum, as all other types aren’t a great fit for your kitchen.

Benefits

• High-quality synthetic linoleum is safe for your health;
• Synthetic linoleum is easy to cut and install. It can hide small floor defects; in addition, synthetic linoleum can be installed on uneven surfaces;
• Synthetic linoleum is resistant to damages and rot and is very easy to clean. Various manufacturers add antifungal additives to their products, making them almost indistinguishable from natural linoleum;
• Extremely affordable.

Drawbacks:

• Most models do not have anti-slip capabilities;
• Synthetic linoleum can be damaged with acetone or aggressive detergents;
• Synthetic linoleum is vulnerable to mechanical damage;
• Synthetic linoleum will only last for 5-15 years.

PVC linoleum // podlahyruzicka.cz

Kitchen Linoleum Designation

You must always consider the class of linoleum before buying it. When it comes to your kitchen, domestic and commercial linoleums will be a good match.

Domestic Linoleum

Domestic linoleum is one of the most affordable types of linoleum. It has a wide variety of colors and textures. It is also very elastic, so you’ll have no troubles installing it. However, it has its share of disadvantages as well: domestic linoleum will not withstand high loads and will easily get stained with dirt and liquids, in addition to being very fragile. If you’re going to install domestic linoleum at your kitchen, be ready that it will last for 3, maybe 4 years. So, you should only buy domestic linoleum if you plan to make an overhaul of the building.

Commercial Linoleum

This is basically the best option for any kitchen. It combines both the affordability and rich variety of designs of domestic linoleum with high durability and reliability of commercial linoleum. It is resistant to most types of damage, can withstand any fat, dirt and detergents, while the variety of designs allows you to pick the right model for literally every kitchen design. You’ll have no problems with commercial linoleum, provided that you’ve chosen a high-quality manufacturer.

Kitchen Linoleum Structure

Homogenous Linoleum

This material consists of single PVC layer and is usually up to 3 mm thick. It is easy to lay out and mound. This flooring has a rough non-slipping surface, high resistance to wear and mechanical damage. However, homogenous linoleum has several drawbacks: its design and color selection is quite narrow, and the sound/heat insulating qualities aren’t as good. In addition, the width of homogenous linoleum sheets rarely exceeds 3 meters, so you might have to use several sheets.

PRO TIP: Homogenous linoleum is usually made of limestone, making it more fragile in the process. Bend a corner of the linoleum while you’re in the store, and if you’ll see a white stripe, avoid that type of linoleum.

Heterogeneous Linoleum

This material consists of several layers: base (cork, foamed PVC, felt, etc.), fiberglass skeleton, PVC with image, and a transparent protection layer. Heterogeneous linoleum is usually 2 to 6 mm thick (sometimes even 7 mm thick). This linoleum has a rich color palette. It is very durable and will serve you for a long time without losing its form and brighness of the paints. The sheets are usually up to 5 meters wide, so you’ll be able to avoid any junctions while installing the linoleum.

Kitchen Linoleum Durability

When shopping, make sure to take two parameters – wear and abrasion resistance – into consideration. Abrasion resistance class 2 or 3 (depending on how much time you’re going to spend on kitchen) linoleum will fit right in onto your kitchen. Aim for Class 31 / 32 linoleum.

PRO TIP: You can find the class in the product certificate. In addition, you can do a little manual check: just squeeze the linoleum with two fingers. The smaller the resulting hole, the harder it will be to damage the linoleum.

Kitchen Linoleum Flooring Video Guide

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Float the linoleum on the floor

Floating a floor refers to laying it in place without securing it to the subfloor. It’s common in several types of floor installations, including hardwood and linoleum. If you change your flooring often or need a quick fix while you’re making renovations, a floating floor may be your best option.

It’s also handy for people who rent out their homes or portions of their homes, such as a basement suite. You can change out a floating linoleum floor in just a few hours with minimal work:

1. Start by removing the baseboard and shoe molding trim and set it aside; you can reuse it without needing to buy more.
2. Cut the linoleum to match the room’s measurements, then unroll it over the subfloor.
3. Reattach the baseboards and shoe molding to finish the installation. The trim covers the expansion gap and keeps the edges from moving.

Ensure that the floor is level

As a thin, solid sheet, linoleum tends to show dents and ridges from the subfloor below. Glue can help even these out slightly, so if you’re not using glue, ensure that the floor is level and flat before laying the linoleum by filling indentations with putty and sanding high spots.

Another option

Another option is to install an underlayment over your existing subfloor. A plywood underlayment is ideal for linoleum, although you can use backer board or other underlayment products. An underlayment raises the level of the floor, so make sure you have room to put it under or around appliances.

Installing linoleum floor

Cutting the linoleum

Take your time when measuring and cutting the linoleum. The sheet is installed in one piece without seams, so there’s no room for error when cutting around obstacles like cabinets or toilets. Making a template from taped-together newspaper pages or roofing felt can help. Cut the template until it fits around the obstacles in the room, then lay it on the unrolled sheet of linoleum and cut it to match the template.

Always leave an expansion gap around the edges of about 1/4 inch.

With any type of linoleum installation, there are a few tips that can help you lay the flooring successfully. Unroll the sheet and leave it in the room for at least two days. This allows the linoleum to acclimate to the environment of the room, helping to prevent buckling and warping after installation.

Use a floor roller

A floor roller, which you can rent at most home improvement stores, can be your biggest ally when installing the linoleum. Once you have it placed on the floor, roll outward from the center in every direction with the floor roller. The weighted roller pushes out wrinkles or bubbles in the linoleum before you secure it in place.

Alternative to gluing

If you need a more permanent solution but want a simpler installation process than gluing, you can staple the linoleum to plywood or particle board floors. Once you cut and unroll the linoleum, use a staple gun with floor staples around the edges to hold the floor securely in place. Add the baseboard and shoe molding to hide the staples. These are easy, although tedious, to remove later with a claw hammer or flat-head screwdriver when it’s time to replace the linoleum.

If you’re laying the linoleum in a bathroom, where it’s likely to get wet often, you can also apply a bead of silicone caulk over the staples and expansion joint to make sure no water can penetrate the flooring. The caulk is flexible, allowing the floor to expand as necessary, but you can remove it later by cutting through an end with a utility knife and peeling it away from the floor.

Author: Shala Munroe
Photo: www.lowes.com
Source: homeguides.sfgate.com

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Linoleum removing tools

There are many different tools available for the job:

• hammer
• chisel
• barbecue spatula
• scarper

A hammer and chisel are used for really tough spots. A scraper can be used if the adhesive is not too strong. Once the sheeting is removed, attack the adhesive with a scraper and work your way systematically across the floor.

“A sander can then be used to remove the last little bits of glue and bring timber floorboards back to their original look,” says Chani Gelgor of Fixoligist.

Removing vinyl tiles

Removing vinyl tiles is a similar procedure as, once again, they are glued to the floor. Remove the tile with a scraper or chisel, but be careful not to damage the floorboards. Old vinyl tiles will tend to break into smaller pieces anyway.

Once the lino or vinyl tiles are removed, careful use of a heat gun can help soften the glue left on the floorboards – but it still requires a lot of dogged scraping.

“But be careful,” says Chani. “The heat is much hotter than a hairdryer, so make sure it doesn’t touch your skin or the floorboards.”

Be careful with asbestos

Prior to 1985, asbestos was used as a backing with some vinyl floor sheeting and tiles. It was also used with lino, though much less frequently. If you suspect your floor has asbestos backing, it’s important to get it tested prior to removal. Contact the National Association of Testing Authorities on how to safely have a sample tested. If asbestos is present it must be removed by a professional holding a ‘class A’ asbestos removal licence.

Linoleum removal tip

Remember, carpet, vinyl and lino floor coverings are large, bulky and unwieldy. Have a plan in place for their removal from your property when you are finished. You may need to hire a trailer and it’s worthwhile checking out dumping costs at your local waste facility.

Author: Kerryn Ramsey
Photo: www.improvenet.com
Source: www.homelife.com.au

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Unlike traditional sheet linoleum, homeowners and do-it-yourself types can install linoleum squares themselves. The squares are more manageable than six-foot wide sheets, and perfectly matched seams are not necessary with most tile patterns.

As with any flooring project, it is important to start installation of linoleum squares with a clean, dry surface. If the sub-floor has bits of leftover glue or mismatched seams, you may want to lay down a layer of thin plywood to create a smooth work surface. Bring the tile inside while you clean and prep the floor, so it has a chance to acclimatize and reach the same temperature as the work area.

After cleaning the subfloor, prep it with a tile primer. Pour the primer on the sub-floor, and roll it out with a paint roller. Make sure to spread it evenly, and prevent any puddles from forming.

Next, find the center of the room and snap a chalk line dividing it in half. Make sure that the line is square with the walls. In some cases, it may be more aesthetically pleasing to work from the visual center of the room rather than the actual center. Plan your tile placement before you begin and determine the best starting point for your project.

Follow the manufactures instructions when applying adhesive to the linoleum squares , and begin working along the chalk line before moving out into the room. Install the whole tiles first, and then cut partial tiles to fit. Once you lay the tiles, use a heavy roller to make sure the tiles adhere to the floor. Apply sealer per the manufactures directions.

Allow the tiles to set up at least overnight (twelve hours) before walking on the floor, and clean it with a dust-mop for the first few weeks.

Linoleum squares are a classic flooring product that look great on new homes and classic remodels. Linoleum is a contemporary solution with a classic look that is sure to add value to any home improvement project.

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The most challenging aspect of working with linoleum is removing a previous installation. When working on a renovation, some homeowners want to remove their home’s original sheet linoleum in order to refinish the hardwood floor underneath or install a new linoleum tile floor. Removing old glue for linoleum is always hard work, but most linoleum adhesives are water-soluble. To remove the glue, pour hot water over the area and let it sit for a few minutes then use a scraper to scrape it off the subfloor. Commercial adhesive removers are also available though they often contain harsh chemicals that could pose health risks. Always test any method in a small out of the way area to be sure it will not damage the floor under the linoleum.

Some old adhesives contain asbestos, particularly those manufactured in the 1970s or earlier. If you suspect that your floor is contaminated, seek the advice of an asbestos abatement company. Remove a small piece of the suspect floor and take it to a local service for testing. If it comes back positive, hire a contractor who can safely remove the asbestos.

Every brand of glue for linoleum installation will come with its own set of manufactures instructions. Some adhesives need to cure before the linoleum is set, while other manufactures will recommend that you lay down the new floor while the glue is still wet. For best results, you should always follow the instructions that came with the product.

You can use a mop with soap and water to clean your linoleum floor, but avoid leaving puddles or standing water. If water seeps around the seams of your linoleum, it can break down the glue and damage the floor.

Working with glue for linoleum can be challenging. When preparing to remove or replace the linoleum in your home, research and plan out the project before you begin. Use the right tools for the job, and follow the manufactures directions on any products that you use.

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First, the linoleum itself must be removed. Score the linoleum into small sections with a utility knife. These sections should be about six inches wide. Removing smaller sections is a lot easier than trying to remove one large piece of linoleum. The next step is to start peeling the linoleum away from the concrete.

To peel away the linoleum, use a scraper, razor blade, or putty knife, to scrape the linoleum off. Begin by scraping small sections of the linoleum. Usually, the linoleum will not come off all at once due to the adhesive underneath. Several layers may need removed. A heat gun can help in this process. Heat guns can be rented from most rental houses or purchased at a home improvement store. When applying heat, direct the heat under the linoleum. This way the linoleum and adhesive will come off together. A hair dryer can also be used for this task.

Once the linoleum is removed, there might be remnants of adhesive left on the concrete. Again, using a heat source will come in handy for this step. Solvents are also another choice for removing adhesives. If solvents are used, make sure you read and follow all safety directions. Also, make sure there is adequate ventilation when using these solvents; as they tend to give off a bad odor. Another way to remove adhesive, is using boiling water. Boiling water will soften the adhesive and make it easier to scrape off. Pour the boiling water on the floor, and wait a few minutes before trying to scrape the adhesive. Don’t try to scrape the adhesive as soon as the water is applied. The water needs time to soak in the adhesive; also, the hot water needs time to cool down to prevent burns.

Removing linoleum from concrete floors does take time and a great amount of scraping. Following these easy steps will have that old linoleum off in no time. Just remember, all that hard work is well worth it once the new flooring is down.

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Given all the overhead, it only looks befitting that, when cleaning it, we choose organic methods that share associated topics – approaches that are eco amicable, risk-free, straightforward and flexible. These approaches will leave your linoleum vibrant, glowing and beautiful for numerous years to come.

Cleaning start.

Any cleaning should start off with a dusting to get rid of dried out solid dust. Use a dry mop or dust mop for this. This is always first step simply because we want to get rid of any possible grit from the ground just before performing anything that might grind it into the product leaving long lasting marks.

Damp cleaning.

After dry mopping, you must to use a moist mop. Have a quart of hot water, add one half cup of vinegar to it and you have an eco friendly, easy cleaning solution. Ensure you wring out the mop well as you do the job, you only have to have ample liquid to keep the mop wet and aid lift up grime. You do not need to drench the ground. Also, you do not have to leave the solution on the flooring, towel the floor dry while you go.

Removing scuff marks.

Next step is to safely remove scuff marks. Cleaning up scuff marks is usually the most difficult part of getting linoleum floors outstanding. You will find two simple methods to clean scuff marks:

1. First method is a “twist and dance” approach. This involves placing a cloth or rag over the mark, standing on it and scooting around. You can use a range of methods of scooting – do the “twist”, slide back and forth or side to side – this process works well with music on – easily dance the scuffs away. It is usually enjoyable and also a nice exercise!

2. The second approach is a “tennis ball” technique. This includes using an old tennis ball, cutting a opening in it and putting it on the end of a broomstick. The tennis ball’s fabric is soft enough to guard your flooring, yet rough enough to provide extra cleaning power. In addition, this method concentrates the pressure you add onto a small point – considering that force raises whenever you focus it over a smaller spot, this implies that you can genuinely work out those stubborn spots. This technique is sometimes employed by professionals to spot clean scuff marks. If dry rubbing doesn’t seem to work you may need to go with a moist cleaning method. You’ll find a lot of possibilities to properly eliminate scuffs using only just a little solution.

As a solution you can to use baby oil. Easily apply a few drops and rub away with a cotton cloth (this process might be used while using “twist and dance” strategy from above). You can also use baking soda with a damp sponge to scrub up scuff marks. As a final point, you’ll be able to use toothpaste to clean up scuff marks (preferably, a non fluoridated tooth polish – ideally 1 that has a mild scourer like baking soda as an ingredient).

That is actually all there’s to cleaning linoleum in a safe, natural eco friendly method! By dealing with every job as the need arises, you’ll have lovely linoleum for years – even decades – to come.

By materials of R.Levi

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Before you start painting the linoluem floor, wash it and let it dry. If you have wax on your floor, use a wax remover first. You can prepare cleaning solution yourself. For that purpose mix ¾ of hot water and a glass of calcinated soda (linen soda). Wash the floor with a brush to remove wax. Otherwise, it will prevent the oil paint from drying. After that wash the floor with pure water and let it dry.

If you have the wax covering penetrated into linoleum pinholes, dry the floor with a sponge treated with turpentine or aviation petrol. Turpentine or aviation petrol will dissolve wax in the linoleum pinholes. Do not use the usual petrol for that purpose.

When linoleum is dry you can cover it with different types of polish: oil polish, resin varnish etc.

When polish dries paint the floor. If you do not have any polish, you can paint the floor without polish base. Just make sure that linoleum is absolutely clean. Any dirt will show through the paint and make your linoleum floor look lumpy.

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Besides, if the linoleum is in good condition, with no missing pieces or noticeable bubbles, you may consider laying the flooring over it.

But if you still have to remove your old linoleum, here are some tips to follow.

Find out what type of material is underneath, remove the baseboards and pry up a corner of the flooring. So what do we have?

It’s concrete!

To work with concrete you will need nothing more than a heat gun and a utility knife. Use the utility knife to cut the flooring into long strips that are 15cm wide. Then using a heat gun, work on heating the glue underneath each strip. Pull the strip up slowly, stopping to use the heat gun to soften glue when removal becomes difficult.

It is possible to remove it with hot water instead of a heat gun. Pour hot water onto small areas and allow it to cool before trying to remove the linoleum. However, this method is much messier and less effective than using a heat gun.

Once all the strips from the concrete have been removed, scrap up any additional glue with a scraper. You can use more hot water or the heat gun for stubborn areas.

It’s wood!

Wood is more difficult to work with because of the porous nature of the material. The glue will be able to achieve a stronger bond, making it very difficult to remove.

If you use wooden subfloor, you can easily remove both linoleum and its base together.

First determine how thick the subfloor is by drilling a hole in the floor. Set the depth of a circular saw blade to 1/8-inch deeper than the floor depth and cut the flooring into manageable sections of about 91cm by 91cm. Cut close to walls with a reciprocating saw. Then install your new plywood subfloor onto the exposed floor joists and proceed with linoleum laying.

If it’s hardwood, determine which way the underlying hardwood flooring is running and cut the linoleum into 15- or 20-cm wide strips running with the grain. Heat the linoleum with a heat gun and pry it off the subfloor while the glue is soft. Use a flooring scraper to remove as much of the remaining glue as possible (try not to gouge the hardwood). Sand the hardwood surface to remove any traces of glue and refinish the floor. Level and smooth the wooden subfloor in preparation for your new flooring.

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The material is most commonly used in kitchens and entry rooms, though it can be used anywhere in the house. You can buy linoleum for installation in tile form or in a large roll. The tile form has become more popular because it is easier to install and can you can mix and match tiles to create your own look. Linoleum can be a great do-it-yourself project for anyone who is tired of looking at a dingy floor or for anyone who just wants a change.

So let’s start from preparation work.

The first thing you will need to do is to remove any furniture and any appliances from the room you are going to floor. Once everything is removed you will need to rip up the old flooring. Find any nails or staples sticking up from the floor and remove them. Clean away as much dust and debris as possible. Also remove any thresholds along the floor. Once you have this done you should inspect the condition of your sub floor. If it is anything but smooth and perfect you should lay down plywood to form a smooth, even, and level sub floor. Make sure the joints are tight and staggered.

Laying Tile Linoleum

After the floor is ready to go, you must find the center of the room. Start by choosing one wall. Measure this wall and put a small mark at the exact center of the wall on the floor. Do the same with the opposite wall. After you have two marks, take a chalk line and make a line from one mark to the other. At this point your room should be cut in half. Next proceed with the same process again this time with the other two opposing walls.

When you are finished your room should be cut into four parts. Use a carpenter’s square to make sure the lines are at a ninety-degree angle. Once you have this part finished you can begin to lay down your floor tiles. Do not use the adhesive yet. Starting in the center, lay down your tiles working outwards towards the walls. When you get to the final row of tiles that fit against the wall you will want to stop. If everything lines up, you can go back to the center and begin to apply your adhesive. Be sure so to use a respirator and other protective gear when working with the glue. Open windows if you can to allow the fumes to dissipate. Once you have all of the tiles laid down you can then cut the last row of tiles to fit between the wall and the floor you have already laid down. Use a knife and a very stiff edge to be sure you are making a straight and accurate cut. The adhesive should be holding the tiles into place stiffly before you attempt to walk over them.

For odd shaped rooms you may have to improvise. It is best not to use detailed tile layouts for this type of room. You can still try to find the center of the room and work your way out as you go. Save the odd fitting turns and edges for last and double-check all measurements.

Laying Rolled Linoleum

If you are using rolled linoleum, you may find that you have a hard job in front of you. Linoleum in rolled form can be very awkward.

Rolled linoleum is laid in a prepared room and is left for 10 days for it to become completely straight. In order to get rid of any bubbles and uneven places “iron” your linoleum with hot sand sack or a hot iron through paper. Then put all pieces together: large – at the bottom and small – at the top and press them with a load

If it is not realistic to lay the floor down in one single sheet, you will have to do it in two, three, or even four pieces. If you do this, you will have to work extra hard to be sure the joints are sealed and are located in a low traffic area of the room. If you leave a seam along a well-traveled path through a room the seam will not hold together nearly as well.

The last stage

The material is rubproof, but it should be laid into a well prepared surface. Note that if even a small object gets under it, for instance a stone, it will surely be visible after some days and this will spoil an appearance of your floor. Further on, linoleum will rub in this place.

So to avoid any bubbles, use a roller for best results. Allow the floor adhesive to dry according to manufacturer’s recommendations. Once the floor is dry you can refasten any thresholds you may have removed and reinstall appliances. Furniture and other items can be brought back in the room as well.

Tips and Tricks

• When possible, use the same brand adhesive as the linoleum to ensure compatibility.
• Some linoleum will expand slightly width–wise and shrink slightly length–wise. Always follow your manufacturer’s recommendations for expansion spacing. Some manufacturers recommend leaving an expansion space while others do not.
• If your linoleum floor will have seams, follow all seam width recommendations. Some manufacturers recommend fitting the linoleum flush at seams while others may require a 1/64″ space between seams.
• Always wear gloves if using a full–spread adhesive.
• If using sheet linoleum, do not unroll the linoleum until you are ready to cut and install it.
• Never store your linoleum in direct sunlight.
• Blades with hooks work well for trimming linoleum after you lay it. These work with most utility knives and can be purchased at many home improvement stores.
• When trimming linoleum along walls, use a scrap piece of wood to create a crease in the linoleum along the wall. Cut along this crease.
• On outside corners, cut the linoleum vertically from top to bottom.
• On inside corners, cut “V” shapes in the linoleum until it will lay flat along both walls.
• Place heavy objects on the linoleum during trimming, rolling and gluing to ensure the linoleum does not shift before it is secured to the subfloor.

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