A great crochet ending begins with fastening off and weaving in. It may also include a great edging. Over the next three days, we will cover these three topics as well as tips and tricks for each one.

Click on any of the images to enlarge them.

Fastening Off

You may think there’s not much to say about fastening off, and if you think this you are a little bit right and a little bit wrong. After all, fastening off simply involves cutting the yarn, leaving a long tail, and ensuring that the tail is secured. But, there are subtle ways to vary the fastening off process, especially when working in rounds, to achieve different results.

Fastening Off Leaving a Knot

Perhaps the most common way to fasten off is finish the last stitch of a row or round, cut the yarn, draw the tail all the way through the last loop on the hook, and pull to tighten the resulting knot. This method forms a small, knot near the top of the last stitch. This knot is usually pretty secure and after carefully weaving in the tail the piece is at little risk of unraveling.

Fastening Off Without Leaving a Knot

Sometimes the little knot can leave a noticeable bump on the edge of a piece. Accordingly, some people fasten off without leaving a knot. Instead of completing the last stitch and then drawing the tail through the last loop on the hook, the tail is drawn all the way through when working the final yarn over of the last stitch. This omits the knot and tiny bump. To be sure that this type of fastening off is sufficiently secure, extra care must be taken weaving in the end.

Fastening Off When Working in Rounds

The join at the end of joined rounds or in the last round of continuous rounds (spirals) may not look as smooth and seamless as desired. This can be partly due to the bump caused by fastening off leaving a knot, but is also due to the slip stitch typically used to join rounds. The top of the joining slip stitch looks the same as the top of the other stitches in the round, but it is sandwiched between the first and last stitch of the round. This can leave a bit of a bulge or gap. In addition, if you attempt to count the stitches in the last round by counting the tops of the stitches, it will appear that there is one more stitch in the round (because the joining slip stitch looks like the other stitches). Several different techniques can be used to provide a smoother and more seamless look.

Working the Joining Slip Stitch in the 2nd Stitch

Instead of working the joining slip stitch in the first stitch of a round, the joining slip stitch can be worked in the 2nd stitch of the round. If worked carefully, this places the top of the slip stitch directly on top of the top of the first stitch, eliminating sandwiching the slip stitch between the first and last stitches (photo 4). After working the joining slip stitch in the 2nd stitch, fasten off without leaving a knot and weave in the end carefully to create a near seamless look.

Needle Join

Do not work a joining slip stitch. Work the last stitch of the round. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail and fasten off the last stitch without leaving a knot. Sew the beginning and end of the round together, duplicating the look of the top of the first stitch, as follows:

1.  Thread the tail onto a yarn needle.
2. Insert the needle under the top two strands of the 2nd stitch of the round and draw through.
   
3. Insert the needle down through the center of the top of the last stitch and to the back of the piece and draw through.
   
4. Carefully weave in the end on the wrong side.

For more articles by Kj Hay, click here.

Since many of you are probably looking for handmade elements to include in the ceremony or reception, I’ve gathered a roundup of some of our lovely wedding patterns to help you or the bride-to-be find the perfect wedding project.  From bridal accessories, to reception decor and gifts, there’s surely a pattern to help inspire you!

*Pattern in image: Amigurumi Two Peas in a Pod

Shawls and Shrugs for the Bride

Crochet Bridal Shawl

Knit Eyelet Shawl

Crochet Bridal Shrug

Handmade Reception Accessories

Knit Wedding Favor Bags

Crochet Wedding Napkin Ring

Crochet Champagne Glass Cover

Handmade Gifts for the Bride

Crochet Bridal Clutch

Knit Tree of Life Afghan

Crochet Ring Bearer Pillow

What handmade elements have you incorporated, or plan on incorporating in your wedding? Have you given a handmade gift before? Share your handmade wedding experiences with us in the comments!

Related Items:

• From the YarnCraft blog: 15+ Ways to Knit & Crochet for Your Wedding
• 6 Wonderful Knit & Crochet Wedding Projects Made by Customers Like You
• Yarn as a Bridal Shower Theme

This week, I have been working on the front of the Tranquil Tank Top and after nine inches of ribbing at the bottom, I’m ready to tackle the lace and cable part of the top! Before I started the lace, I made sure my ribbing for the front was not only the same length as the back, but that the right side (RS) of my ribbing was the same as the RS of my back ribbing. I had two knit stitches on each side edge of the back ribbing, and I made sure I did the same for the front. Double checking this will allow me to sew side seams that will look seamless when finishing.

The left and right upper sides of the front are written in chart form instead of written instructions in this pattern. When I first glanced at the instructions, I was surprised to see six pages of charts! Then, when I looked a little closer, I saw that there are actually two charts for each of the three sizes. This will make for easier chart reading, rather than having all the sizes included on just one or two charts. I happened to print out all the pages of this pattern before I saw this, so I took out the four pages of charts that I will not need to make my size. That way there will be less chance of confusion as I start the charts. We need to start with the left front, so here is the left front chart of for the Large size: (Note that you can view charts for all sizes by clicking on the pattern link.)

It’s a good habit to look over your chart before you start to see how the pattern progresses. The left front of the Tranquil Tank Top is the half which will be partially hidden behind the right front that overlaps in the middle. Since there is this overlap of fabric between the left and the right fronts, the left front needs to have stitches cast on near the center front edge. These will be sewn down behind the right front when I am finishing. One question I often hear as a knitting teacher concerns how to cast on stitches at the end of a row. Since a picture is sometimes worth a thousand words…here is a link to a tutorial from Lion Brand’s Learning Center that shows us how to work the “backwards loop” cast-on method:

After casting on those extra stitches for the left front and purling back on the wrong side, the chart for the left front begins with row 1 (which is on a right side). I noticed that each right side (or odd numbered) row has a decrease just before the cable section of the front. I also noticed that all of the lace pattern for the left front includes only “ssks” with the few “k2togs” only at the armhole shaping. (If that sentence sounds funny, you may like to read the last blog post that explains the difference between these two decreases.)

One of the nicest parts of this top is in the shaping of the front that is  almost “hidden” with a single ssk just before the cable section. Working up the left front, I found myself making the same mistake more than a couple of times! Where? Well, the lace pattern in the left front is a repeat of a yarn-over (yo) before each ssk. My hands became so used to working a yo before each ssk, that I found myself working a yarn-over right before that last ssk – that is for the shaping. Making that mistake will keep the front from shaping at the neck. I have made sure to double check the end of each right side row that I have not made that mistake again!

Now I’m ready to work the armhole shaping and then the rest of the left front. This has been a very fun project so far, and I hope you are all having fun knitting this one, too!

Previous Posts from this Knit-Along:

• Ribbing and Knitting the Back
• Additional Sizes (or How to Resize a Pattern)
• Gauge Swatching
• Join Our Spring Knit-Along Featuring the Tranquil Tank Top

Yarn blending is the technique of stranding together several yarns to create a knit or crochet fabric. It takes all of the beautiful qualities of its component yarns and blends them into something that is greater than the sum of its parts.

HOW TO DO IT:

1. Take a few yarns and hold them together.
2. Judge the combined thickness and select an appropriate needle or hook.
3. Knit or crochet all yarns at once.

Yarn blending is so simple, yet it can yield infinite varieties and unexpected results. You can never predict what a yarn blend will look like until it is worked up. Therefore, an integral part of this process is creating swatches. After a few rows, you will get an idea of how the fabric will look and can evaluate the combination. Then you can adjust your work, adding in new yarns that you like. Since blends tend to be bulky, a swatch can be made in no time.

[Pictured: Knit Simple Cowl.]

TIPS

1. Use a large needle or hook. Generally, combining together several yarns yields a bulky weight yarn, so using a large needle or hook really helps keep the fabric pliable.
2. Think tonally. Choose yarns that are different but share the same amount of lightness or darkness, so they will blend together when viewed.
3. Select yarns that share a primary color. This will ensure that they colors blend together. For example, the blue, green and grey of the 5 1/2 Hour Throw all have blue bases.
4. Try a variegated yarn, such as Sock-Ease™. Mixing a single variegated yarn into your blend can produce moments of color drama. See the Electric Colors Scarf as an example.
5. Keep one of your yarns consistent throughout so that there is a visual continuity between changes.
6. Strand with a metallic yarn like Vanna’s Glamour™ to give a punch that really makes the other yarns stand out, such as in the Sandcastle Throw.
7. Start with a simple pattern and let the fun begin. A subtle stitch pattern allows the colors to be the main focus of the project. Experiment with your own yarn blends to see what you can create.

—

A version of this article first ran in The Weekly Stitch newsletter in November 2010. Click here to sign up for the newsletter and get articles, free patterns, and exclusive offers in your inbox each week. 

Knit Bike Seat Cover in Tweed Stripes	Crochet Bike Seat Cover (from Ravelry)

Knit Lace Top-Tube Protector (from Ravelry)	Knit and Crochet Bike Lock Pattern (from Tangle Was Here)
Crochet “I Heart My Bike Lock” Cozy by The Knit Cafe Toronto (from Ravelry)	Knit Bicycle U-Lock Cover Recipe (from Ravelry)

Would you yarn-bomb your own bike? Have you already? We’d love to see your photos–share them with us on Facebook!

Related Links:

• Spotted: A Crochet Bike in NYC
• Brightening Our World with Yarn!
• Come See Our New Spring Window!

Note: This is the third installment of our Spring 2013 Knit-Along. To view previous posts, click here.

This week the weather where I live seems to be right on cue for our Spring Knit Along with sunny, warm days all this last week. Working with Cotton-Ease for this project has been perfect for these days where my windows are open and I can already be found knitting on my porch. This week I finished the back of the Tranquil Tank Top.

The back is the simpler half of this top with only ribbing and stockinette stitch (and a little shaping thrown in.) The lace will appear after we finish the bottom of the front. As I was knitting the back, I remembered a few things that will make sure this top will fit and look great. All of the sizes of this pattern call for the bottom ribbing to measure 9” before starting the stockinette stitch pattern for the upper part of the back.

When I thought I had knit the full 9” of ribbing, I remembered that measuring ribbing can be a little tricky as ribbing should be measured slightly stretched before I measure. What I thought was 9” was actually not even 8 ½” when I measured it slightly stretched. Working a longer piece of ribbing can create this effect, so it is always good to just slightly stretch your ribbing before measuring the length. Take a look at this picture below – I have just stretched the ribbing a little and it measures 9”.

My last row of my ribbing was a wrong side (WS) row, which started with 2 purls and ended with 2 purls. I want to make sure that the ribbings to both my back and my front will have 2 knits on each side of the right side (RS). (You can see this is in the first picture above.) Making sure the ribbings of the front and back are worked the same will make it much easier to sew up the sides for a very nice finish. The stockinette stitch started with a knit row on the RS, where there are 2 knit stitches on each edge of the ribbing. I will keep this in mind when I start the lace part of the front.

After binding off for the armholes, there are some decreases that I can see will be very important for the lace patterns on the front. The back is a good place to try these decreases – especially if you have never done an “ssk” before.

The 2 decreases worked while knitting this top are a Knit 2 together (K2tog) and a Slip, slip, knit (ssk). Both of these are done to decrease a stitch, but the resulting slants of these two decreases are opposite. A K2tog will result in right-slant, whereas the “ssk” is a mirror image that results in a left-slant. These two decreases will be very important for the diagonal lace patterns in each of the two upper front pieces. Luckily for us – there are two great videos on the Lion Brand website that show exactly how each of these decreases is worked. So, if you have never worked a K2tog or an ssk decrease before – the back will allow you to try these out for the armhole and the neck shaping.

One common question that I am asked as a knitting teacher is about how to measure armhole length. Measuring along a straight armhole edge will give the correct length, but measuring the shaped edge of the armhole will give an incorrect measurement that will result in a shorter measurement than the armhole needs to be. The Tranquil Tank Top pattern has a shaped armhole which can cause this problem if not measured correctly. I find the best way to measure a shaped armhole is to place a detachable marker (or safety pin) in the middle of my work, on the first row of the armhole shaping. Then, I measure straight up from my marker to my needle to get the correct armhole measurement.

For the large size that I am working, my armhole length needs to be 7” before I shape the back neck. Once again, both decreases, the K2tog and the ssk are used to shape the back of the neck. Now that the back is done, I am working the ribbing for the front which worked the same as the back. I’m looking forward to starting the lace pattern! How is your project going so far?

Previous Posts from this Knit-Along:

• Additional Sizes (or How to Resize a Pattern)
• Gauge Swatching
• Join Our Spring Knit-Along Featuring the Tranquil Tank Top

Mets Stitch ‘n Pitch at Citi Field, Flushing, NY (vs. Pittsburgh Pirates)
Saturday, May 11
1:10 pm
Click here for tickets

Discounted tickets in the Promenade Reserved section are available for $25 each, and–perhaps best of all–the first 1,000 attendees to purchase tickets will be receiving this really awesome limited edition Mr. Met Knitting bobblehead. I’ll admit I’m biased, as a Mets with a growing collection of bobbleheads, but I think it’s pretty cool to see a team mascot crafting!

Stitch ‘N Pitch events at Citi Field, the New York Mets’ stadium, are always a blast. You may remember that, three years ago, on June 5, 2010, Stitch ‘n Pitch attendees at Citi Field set a Guinness World Record for most people crocheting in one place. Pretty cool, right? You can read more about that event by clicking here. While the people from Guinness won’t be in attendance at this game, it’s still sure to be a memorable event. Below, check out Jack Blumenthal, SVP of Lion Brand Yarn, on the field at Citi Field.

If you’re not based in the New York area, there are still plenty of chances to catch a Stitch ‘N Pitch game near you. Dates are set for the Brewers, Nationals, Giants, Rays, Pirates and Tigers this season, as well as many Minor League teams across the country, and more dates will likely be added as the season progresses. Check the up-to-date 2013 Season Schedule here.

Personally, I won’t be snagging my knitting Mr. Met bobblehead this weekend (bummer), as I have a prior commitment, but I hope to see some yarncrafting friends in July as the Mets take on the Pirates in Pittsburgh at their Stitch ‘n Pitch event!

Will you be attending a Stitch ‘n Pitch this year? Have you attended in the past? Share your stories with us in the comments!

Related Links:

• Baseball + Yarn = The Perfect Double Play
• Setting World Records at Citi Field…with Crochet!
• Stitchin’ N Pitchin’ with Mr. Met!
• Kicking Off Baseball Season with Yarn!

I was at a yarn shop a few weeks ago, troubleshooting a thumb gusset in the company of those who understand the importance of good thumb gussets, when the topic of steeks came up.

A steek, in case you haven’t run across the term before, is an opening cut into a piece of hand-knit fabric. There are many ways to create one, but they all end by taking scissors to your knitting. Snip! It gives some knitters the shakes to even contemplate this. It shouldn’t, but it does.

That’s not what I want to write about today.

I mentioned to the group that I’ve launched a class in which the students cut steeks, then sew zippers into the openings. Zipper installation is another thing that gives some knitters the shakes. It shouldn’t, but it does.

That’s also not what I want to write about today.

“I’d take that class,” said one of the junior knitters at the table. There was a murmur of agreement from the other junior knitters. The most junior shook her head. “I’d like to,” she said. “But I’m not good with a sewing machine.”

“You don’t need a sewing machine,” I said. “In my class we use crochet to secure the edges.”

“Forget it,” said the least junior knitter. “I don’t crochet.”

“It’s only basic crochet,” I said. “Even if you haven’t done it before, you can pick this up in sixty seconds.”

“No,” she said, under a slightly curled lip. “I don’t touch crochet hooks. Ever.”

Several of the others–junior and senior–echoed her. No hooks. No hooks ever. Well, maybe to pick up dropped stitches. Never to crochet.

“I don’t crochet,” she said. “I’m a knitter!”

That’s what I want to write about today.

Certain rivalries make sense. Certain things don’t mix. Yale and Harvard, Capulets and Montagues, coyotes and roadrunners.

But knitting and crochet? Why should these be kept apart?

It seems that everywhere I travel–and I spend most of my time on the road, ministering to yarn addicts–I run into knitters who openly hate hooks and hookers who reject knitting with an almost religious zeal.

It wasn’t always so, if the pattern books produced before the second World War are any indication. Many of these publications–including Lion Brand’s own Lion Yarn Book from 1916–offered patterns that mixed knitting and crochet together. I don’t mean just on the same page, I mean in the same project. The editorial assumption seems to have been that if you knew how to do one, you probably had–or would be willing to acquire–a passing familiarity with the other.

It makes sense. Crocheted fabric has certain strengths, knitted fabric has others. Why not use each where it will do the most good? Heck, why not use both for the sheer beauty of the contrast? If you put a pretty crochet lace collar on a sweet knitted cardigan, will the finished product explode?

You’d think so, based on some of the talk I hear.

I have a friend, an otherwise reasonable woman, who once spent three weeks knitting and ripping and re-knitting facings for the front of a cardigan that drooped like an untended houseplant. She could have spent ten minutes shoring up the same edges more effectively with two rows of single crochet, but she refused to do this on the grounds of Textile Purity.

And then there was the time I pitched an idea to a well-known crochet magazine for a piece about a hybrid pattern, written in the 1880s, that was ninety percent crochet with the balance in very simple knitting. The editor declined with regret, explaining that she had once before let a few rows of knit and purl into her publication–and it took months to answer the subscriber mail calling for her head on a doily.

When the present Great Divide began, and why, is something I haven’t been able to determine. I always ask the zealots why they feel as they do, with the hope that one day I can promote a reconciliation through understanding.

In summary:

Among the knitters, there seems to be a strong conviction that crochet hooks can only turn out three things: novelty toilet roll covers, lumpy afghans, and sweaters too stiff or heavy to wear.

Among the crocheters, there seems to be an impression that somehow learning to knit means giving in.

If I might address both groups at once, please: You’re talking crazy.

I’m not saying you must grow to love both equally. Life is short, yarn is long. Play with it however best pleases you. But do please consider, at least for a moment, that the folks on the other side of the imaginary minefield may have something useful and lovely to share with you. It won’t hurt to take a peek.

—–

Writer, illustrator, and photographer Franklin Habit is the author of It Itches: A Stash of Knitting Cartoons (Interweave Press, 2008–now in its third printing) and proprietor of The Panopticon (the-panopticon.blogspot.com), one of the most popular knitting blogs on Internet. On an average day, upwards of 2,500 readers worldwide drop in for a mix of essays, cartoons, and the continuing adventures of Dolores the Sheep.

Franklin’s other publishing experience in the fiber world includes contributions to Vogue Knitting, Yarn Market News, Interweave Knits, Interweave Crochet, PieceWork, Cast On: A Podcast for Knitters, Twist Collective, and a regular column on historic knitting patterns for Knitty.com.

These days, Franklin knits and spins in Chicago, Illinois, sharing a small city apartment with an Ashford spinning wheel and colony of sock yarn that multiplies alarmingly whenever his back is turned.

	Show off your patriotic side with this easy-to-crochet apron, made with Cotton-Ease. With a pocket in the front for your grilling tools or recipe, this apron is the perfect addition to your barbecue repertoire. Get the pattern here.
These simple grill mitts make grabbing hot skewers from the grill easy as can be. They can be knitted or crocheted in Lion Cotton or Kitchen Cotton in whatever color you fancy. Get the knit version here, or get the crochet version here.

	Try this great crocheted checkered flag picnic blanket, designed by Kristin Omdahl, using your favorite shades of Hometown USA for a soft, stylish picnic blanket that will work up in no time! You can also use two strands of your favorite worsted weight yarn, like Vanna’s Choice, Heartland, or Cotton-Ease. This pattern is available through Ravelry.
These adorable Watermelon glass cozies are available as a free Ravelry download, designed by Anita M. Wheeless, and can be knitted with a summery yarn like Cotton-Ease, or worked in hand-dyed Fishermen’s Wool and felted for extra stability.

Related Links:

• 7 Quick & Easy Patterns for Cookouts and Backyard Grilling
• 6 Perfect Patterns for Your Picnic & BBQ Accessories
• BK4K Has Fun with Food!

How? Most of you know that getting the correct gauge is how we make sure that the item we make ends up the size we expect based on the pattern. It’s the reference point that makes sure that you’re on the “same page” as the designer.

We’ve all had that experience at least once in our knitting/crochet lives, where we’ve skipped the gauge swatch and ended up with a project that’s just too small or big. Well, by harnessing our gauge, we can purposely make a project larger or smaller.

Calculating Our New Gauge

First, I read through the pattern for the Tranquil Tank Top, and I see that the cast-on amount is the same as the bust stitch count (this makes things easier, as you’ll want to base all the calculations on the bust size, which is the main sizing reference point for sweater patterns).

The sweater is made as a front and a back piece, so we know each piece is half of our bust measurement (which is the measurement around our bust/chest).

If you’re looking for a bust size of 34 inches, using the Small directions (with a 66 stitch cast-on), let’s do the math:

34 inches ÷ 2 pieces = 17 inches per piece (that’s the front and back pieces of our sweater)

66 stitches ÷ 17 inches = 3.88 stitches per inch (or approx 15.5 stitches per 4 inches)

That would be the gauge we’re looking for.

What Gauge Will YOU Need?

I’ve gone ahead and done the math so that YOU can simply use the gauge listed below for your project. Be sure and follow the right size directions, since that’s what I did my calculations based on.

You’ll also see that I’ve recommended some yarns, which should work up to the gauges below. That’s a consideration you may need to make when you upsize or downsize a pattern–find yarns that have a similar recommended gauge to the one you’re aiming for. I highly recommend Baby’s First as a great yarn to try for this garment–you can see here that I’ve even used it to resize another garment.

For the smaller sizes, the originally recommended yarns should work, but in all cases always use your judgement when seeing how your swatch works up. Switch yarns if it’s not working out. (Is it too holey? Too dense? Is it drapey enough?)

Other Considerations

These calculations will give you the new width, but as you’re working, be sure to keep an eye on the length of the pieces and see if you want to make adjustments as well. You may find that you want to add (or subtract) length to the ribbing or even the shoulder strap sections. Just be sure to write down any changes you make to the back, so that you make them for the front as well!

A great trick is to string your fabric onto waste yarn (a smooth cotton/cotton-blend yarn works well) and then take it off your needles and hold it against yourself (or if you’re far enough along, pinning the pieces together and trying it on.

I hope that these tips help you–and I hope that those of you who were on the fence about participating in the knit-along due to the size options will use this information to join in!

Join us again on Thursday for Heather’s regularly scheduled knit-along blog post. 

Related links:

• Tranquil Tank Top Knit-Along – Gauge Swatching
• Join Our Spring Knit-Along Featuring the… Tranquil Tank Top!