Little Abbee

2016-09-04T14:55:00.000-07:00

Selena Dress for 18" dolls now available. Click here for more details.

Hooded Chevron Cape Crochet Pattern

2016-06-08T19:40:00.000-07:00

Hooded Chevron Cape for American Girl Dolls now available. Click here for details.

Spring Petal Dress Pattern

2016-05-19T18:18:00.001-07:00

Spring Petal Dress for Disney Animator Dolls now available. Click here for details.

Beach Bag Crochet Pattern

2016-05-17T19:20:00.000-07:00

Beach Bag Crochet Pattern is now available for sale. Click here for more details.

Crochet Shrug for your 18" Doll

2016-04-06T10:44:00.000-07:00

The Crochet Shrug is now available for sale. Click here for more details.

Beach Tank Pattern

2016-02-15T15:28:00.000-08:00

The Beach Tank pattern is now available for sale. Click here for more details.

New 18" Doll Pattern for Sale

2016-02-03T08:50:00.000-08:00

New Crochet Pattern for Lacy Shrug is available. Click here for details!

New 18" Doll Pattern for Sale

2015-01-01T14:54:00.002-08:00

This is a sewing pattern that has been designed specifically to fit an 18" American Girl Doll. Includes the pattern for the Khaki pants only.

The pattern is 37 pages long and includes over 50 very high quality step by step pictures. You don't need to print the entire pattern, just the pattern pieces (the last 3 pages). The pattern pieces are computer generated and full size so you will just print them, cut them out, and pin them to your material. The skill level is medium.

Pattern Features:

Real working front pockets
Real working back welt pockets
Belt Loops
Faux Fly

Fabric ideas:

quilting cotton, lightweight denim, cotton blends, or repurposed fabric.

Materials Needed:

-3/8 yard of fabric
-Small scrap of cotton fabric for front pocket lining
-Light weight iron on interfacing
-Matching Thread
-3/8” elastic

I offer full support for all of my patterns. Please email me at any time with any questions.

Your finished items may be sold, as long as you give me credit for the pattern with a link to my website. The pattern itself is copyrighted and may not be redistributed, shared, or copied in any way.

This Sewing Pattern will be emailed to you within 24 hours of cleared payment.

Little Abbee Patterns® is not affiliated with American Girl® or Mattel®.

Click here to purchase this pattern.

O' Crochet Christmas Tree! Crochet TUTORIAL

2014-11-12T07:22:00.002-08:00

Materials Needed:

-Worsted Weight #4 Yarn. I used 100% cotton yarn, but acrylic yarn will work well too.
-Crochet Hook Size: E/4-3.50MM
-Sharp Needle for sewing pieces together
-Scissors
-Stuffing
-Safety Pin for marking your Rnds
-Cardboard

Abbreviations:

Click here for a list of abbreviations.

Special Stitches:

Beginning Crocodile Stitch: ch 3, (counts as the first dc),

work 5 more dc around the post of the next st,

ch 3,

sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook,

work 6 dc around the post of the next st (beginning crocodile stitch made)

Crocodile Stitch: work 6 dc around the post of the next dc, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook, work 6 dc around the post of the next st (crocodile stitch made)

Notes:

The gauge doesn't matter so much for this pattern because you aren't making an article of clothing that needs to fit someone. I do tend to crochet very tight (tighter than normal) when I am making amigurumi so that the stuffing doesn't show through. But, if you want your tree to measure the same as mine, here is the gauge:

4 sts and 4 rows = 1"

Finished Measurement: 10.5" tall, and 5.5" in diameter.

Instructions:

With green yarn, make a magic loop, ch 1;

Rnd 1: 6 sc in the loop (6 sc)

Pull on the tail end to tighten up the loop. Put your safety pin or stitch marker in the first st you made in rnd 1 and move it up as you crochet to mark your rnds.

Rnd 2: sc in each st around (6 sc)

Rnd 3: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) repeat around (9 sc)

Rnd 4: sc in each st around (9 sc)

Rnd 5: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts) repeat around (12 sc)

Rnd 6: sc in each st around (12 sc)

Rnd 7: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 3 sts) repeat around (15 sc)

Rnd 8: sc in each st around (15 sc)

Rnd 9: (2 sc in the next st, st in the next 4 sts) repeat around (18 sc)

Rnd 10: sc in each st around (18 sc)

Rnd 11: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 5 sts, repeat around (21 sc)

Rnd 12: sc in each st around (21 sc)

Rnd 13: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 6 sts) repeat around (24 sc)

Rnd 14: sc in each st around (24 sc)

Rnd 15: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 7 sts) repeat around (27 sc)

Rnd 16: sc in each st around (27 sc)

Rnd 17: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 8 sts) repeat around (30 sc)

Rnd 18: sc in each st around (30 sc)

Rnd 19: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 9 sts) repeat around (33 sc)

Rnd 20: sc in each st around (33 sc)

Rnd 21: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 10 sts) repeat around (36 sc)

Rnd 22: sc in each st around (36 sc)

Rnd 23: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 11 sts) repeat around (39 sc)

Rnd 24: sc in each st around (39 sc)

Rnd 25: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 12 sts) repeat around (42 sc)

Rnd 26: sc in each st around (42 sc)

Rnd 27: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 13 sts) repeat around (45 sc)

Rnd 28: sc in each st around (45 sc)

Rnd 29: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 14 sts) repeat around (48 sc)

Rnd 30: sc in each st around (48 sc)

Rnd 31: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 15 sts) repeat around (51 sc)

Rnd 32: sc in each st around (51 sc)

Rnd 33: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 16 sts) repeat around (54 sc)

Rnd 34: sc in each st around (54 sc)

Rnd 35: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 17 sts) repeat around (57 sc)

Rnd 36: sc in each st around (57 sc)

Rnd 37: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 18 sts) repeat around (60 sc)

Rnd 38: sc in each st around (60 sc)

Rnd 39: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 19 sts) repeat around (63 sc)

Rnd 40: sc in each st around (63 sc)

Rnd 41: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 20 sts) repeat around (66 sc)

Rnd 42: sc in each st around (66 sc)

Rnd 43: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 21 sts) repeat around (69 sc)

Rnd 44: sc in each st around (69 sc)

Rnd 45: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 22 sts) repeat around (72 sc)

Rnd 46: sc in each st around (72 sc)

Fasten off. Set aside for now.

Tree Base:

With green yarn, make a magic loop, ch 1;

Rnd 1: 6 sc in the loop (6 sc)

Pull on the tail end to tighten up the loop. Put your safety pin or stitch marker in the first st you made in rnd 1 and move it up as you crochet to mark your rnds.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 sc)

Rnd 3: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) repeat around (18 sc)

Rnd 4: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts) repeat around (24 sc)

Rnd 5: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 3 sts) repeat around (30 sc)

Rnd 6: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 4 sts) repeat around (36 sc)

Rnd 7: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 5 sts) repeat around (42 sc)

Rnd 8: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 6 sts) repeat around (48 sc)

Rnd 9: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 7 sts) repeat around (54 sc)

Rnd 10: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 8 sts) repeat around (60 sc)

Rnd 11: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 9 sts) repeat around (66 sc)

Rnd 12: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 10 sts) repeat around (72 sc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the base of the tree to the tree.

Stuffing and Sewing:

To begin, you will need to trace the base of your Christmas Tree to a thick piece of cardboard and cut it out. You will eventually put this into the bottom of your tree so that the bottom of the tree will stay nice and flat.

Next, start to stuff your tree. Stuff it very firmly so that it is nice and tight. After you have stuffed it, insert the round piece of cardboard into the bottom of the tree.

Now you will need to start to whip stitch the tree base to the bottom of the tree. You should have the same number of stitches on the base of your tree and the bottom of your tree. They should fit together perfectly. Stop when you only have a few inches left to sew and go ahead and add a little bit more stuffing to the bottom of your tree if you need to.

Weave in your loose end, and you are done with the first part of your tree. Now to add the leaves!

Leaves:

You will need to make 11 rings of leaves to cover this tree. There are only 9 sizes listed below because you will make the smallest size (#1) 3 times and sew those to the very top of your tree. Here is how each one will look.

The rings will get smaller and smaller as you crochet them. We will be starting at the base of the tree with the largest leaf ring, and go up from there. I will be numbering them #1 - #9 starting with #9 as the largest ring on the bottom of the tree. If you are going to change color, start with the color you want the very bottom of the tree to be and change color for each leaf ring you make as you go up. This tree would look beautiful made with one color too.

#9:

Ch 66, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring;

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the next st, ch 1, {(skip the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first dc (44 dc, 22 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 2: work beginning crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section), {(sc in the space between the next 2 dc, work your next crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section) around the post's of the next 2 dc)} repeat from {( to )} around, sc in the space between the next 2 dc, sl st to the first dc you made to join (11 crocodile stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the leaf ring to the tree.

Chances are that your leaf ring should fit perfect. But, if by chance it doesn't, you will need to make a few adjustments. You will need to try your ring onto your Christmas tree and make sure it slips clear down to the bottom of the tree as shown:

If it is too tight, you will need to move up a crochet hook size and re-make it. If it is too big, you will need to move down a crochet hook size and re-make it. As soon as you get that first one to fit properly, the rest of the leaf rings should fit perfectly.

#8:

Ch 60, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring;

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the next st, ch 1, {(skip the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first dc (40 dc, 20 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 2: work beginning crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section), {(sc in the space between the next 2 dc, work your next crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section) around the post's of the next 2 dc)} repeat from {( to )} around, sc in the space between the next 2 dc, sl st to the first dc you made to join (10 crocodile stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the leaf ring to the tree.

#7:

Ch 54, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring;

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the next st, ch 1, {(skip the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first dc (36 dc, 18 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 2: work beginning crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section), {(sc in the space between the next 2 dc, work your next crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section) around the post's of the next 2 dc)} repeat from {( to )} around, sc in the space between the next 2 dc, sl st to the first dc you made to join (9 crocodile stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the leaf ring to the tree.

#6:

Ch 48, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring;

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the next st, ch 1, {(skip the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first dc (32 dc, 16 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 2: work beginning crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section), {(sc in the space between the next 2 dc, work your next crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section) around the post's of the next 2 dc)} repeat from {( to )} around, sc in the space between the next 2 dc, sl st to the first dc you made to join (8 crocodile stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the leaf ring to the tree.

#5:

Ch 42, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring;

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the next st, ch 1, {(skip the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first dc (28 dc, 14 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 2: work beginning crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section), {(sc in the space between the next 2 dc, work your next crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section) around the post's of the next 2 dc)} repeat from {( to )} around, sc in the space between the next 2 dc, sl st to the first dc you made to join (7 crocodile stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the leaf ring to the tree.

#4:

Ch 36, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring;

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the next st, ch 1, {(skip the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first dc (24 dc, 12 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 2: work beginning crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section), {(sc in the space between the next 2 dc, work your next crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section) around the post's of the next 2 dc)} repeat from {( to )} around, sc in the space between the next 2 dc, sl st to the first dc you made to join (6 crocodile stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the leaf ring to the tree.

#3:

Ch 30, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring;

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the next st, ch 1, {(skip the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first dc (20 dc, 10 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 2: work beginning crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section), {(sc in the space between the next 2 dc, work your next crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section) around the post's of the next 2 dc)} repeat from {( to )} around, sc in the space between the next 2 dc, sl st to the first dc you made to join (4 crocodile stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the leaf ring to the tree.

#2:

Ch 24, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring;

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the next st, ch 1, {(skip the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first dc (16 dc, 8 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 2: work beginning crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section), {(sc in the space between the next 2 dc, work your next crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section) around the post's of the next 2 dc)} repeat from {( to )} around, sc in the space between the next 2 dc, sl st to the first dc you made to join (4 crocodile stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the leaf ring to the tree.

#1:

Make 3 of these for the very top of your tree.

Ch 18, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring;

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the next st, ch 1, {(skip the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first dc (12 dc, 6 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 2: work beginning crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section), {(sc in the space between the next 2 dc, work your next crocodile stitch (see SPECIAL STITCHES section) around the post's of the next 2 dc)} repeat from {( to )} around, sc in the space between the next 2 dc, sl st to the first dc you made to join (3 crocodile stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the leaf ring to the tree.

Sewing the Leaf Rings to the Tree:

Start by sewing the largest leaf ring (#9) to the bottom of the tree.

Next, sew the next leaf ring to the tree (#8), and then the next (#7) ect.... until you have all of the leaf rings sewn to the tree.

Star:

With yellow yarn make a magic loop, ch 1;

Rnd 1: 5 sc in the loop, pull on the tail end to tighten up the loop, join with a sl st to the first sc (5 sc)

Rnd 2: (ch 3, sl st in the 2nd from the hook, sc in the next ch, sl st in the next sc from rnd 1) repeat from ( to ) 4 more times. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the star to the top of the tree.

Sew the star to the top of the tree, and you are finished! Decorate your tree as desired, or leave it as it is.

Have fun making your Christmas trees everyone! Merry Christmas!

My Apple Cozy Pattern has been Featured!

2014-09-04T11:10:00.000-07:00

About a month ago Rebecca Parker from Simply Crochet Magazine approached me about featuring one of my patterns in their magazine. So, I checked out their website and I was both intrigued and inspired by all of the wonderful pictures and designs.

If you have never been to Simply Crochet Magazine website, you need to visit! They have so many amazing designs, and even have a free patterns section. Here are just a few of my favorite free patterns:

They have links to some of the cutest Halloween Pattern I have seen. This would be a great time for me to start on some of those cute Halloween decorations. And that Shark hat...... amazingly cute!!

And how about some Christmas inspiration? Links to FREE patterns too! Yay!

They have featured my Apple Cozy pattern in their most recent issue. Go and check it out!

Have fun Crocheting!

TUTORIAL: The Katie Cap {Perfect Photo Prop}

2014-06-03T11:49:00.000-07:00

Today I am going to share a tutorial for one of the cutest little photo prop hats I have ever seen! Of course, that beautiful baby is what makes it cute! Isn't she beautiful? And before I forget, I do need to give the credit for all of these amazing newborn photos to Sheri Beavers of Sweet Pea Photos. Thank you Sheri! She has taken most of the newborn photos that you see in my Etsy Shop.

This hat really is a simple, and easy pattern. You just use some fun fur (they have lost of fun colors too), and some worsted weight yarn. You will only use basic stitches. Just a small warning, fun fur is a tiny bit harder to work with than regular yarn, but you will get the hang of it pretty quick. Now for a few more photos of the hat before we begin.

Now, after looking at these cuuuuute pictures, you probably want to make one for your next photo shoot, right? So, lets get started with the pattern.

Abbreviations:

Click here for a list of the abbreviations you will need to make this hat.

Materials Needed:

Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Vanna's Choice Baby Yarn)
Fun Fur
Crochet Hook Size H
Sharp Needle for sewing the flower and button to the hat.
1" Wooden Button

Notes:

Gauge: 6 sts in 5 rows = 2" (5 cm) If your gauge is not right, go up or down a size crochet hook in order to get the right gauge.

I will be sharing this pattern in two different sizes for you just in case you would like to make one for a toddler photo shoot. The size S (small) will fit a newborn up to 6 months (up to a 16" circumference). The size M (medium) will fit size 6-24 months (up to 18.5" circumference). Choose the size you would like to make. I have written them out separately to make it easier to understand. The hat in the pictures is a size S.

Please Note: To start out making this hat, you will hold both of your yarns together and make a slip knot. If this doesn't make sense to you, hopefully the pictures below will help.

Instructions for size S:

Ch 4, join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring;

Rnd 1: ch 1, 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1 (12 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) repeat around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) repeat around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (40 hdc)

Rnd 5-7: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (40 hdc)

Rnd 8: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off (40 hdc)

Join with a sl st with the worsted weight yarn you were using. You will just be working with the one strand for the last 3 rnds.

Rnd 9-10: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st (40 hdc)

Please note: During this next rnd, you will be crocheting the trim around the edge of the hat and the tassels. Step by step pictures are shown below to make it easier to understand.

Rnd 11: ch 26, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 24 sts, sc in the next 20 sts, ch 26, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 24 sts, sc in the next 20 sts, join with a sl st into the side of the first tassel (as shown in the last picture), fasten off.

Instructions for size M:

Ch 4, join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring;

Rnd 1: ch 1, 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1 (12 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) repeat around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) repeat around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: (hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) repeat around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (48 hdc)

Rnd 6-10: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (48 hdc)

Rnd 11: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off (48 hdc)

Join with a sl st with the worsted weight yarn you were using. You will just be working with the one strand for the last 3 rnds.

Rnd 12-13: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st (48 hdc)

Please note: During this next rnd, you will be crocheting the trim around the edge of the hat and the tassels. Step by step pictures are shown below to make it easier to understand.

Rnd 14: ch 26, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 24 sts, sc in the next 24 sts, ch 26, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 24 sts, sc in the next 24 sts, join with a sl st into the side of the first tassel, fasten off.

You are done with the hat! For the flower, I made a large flower and a small flower. The patterns are below:

Large Flower:

For the middle of the flower, you are going to start out crocheting with both yarns together.

With H Hook, ch 4, join with a sl st in the first ch you made to form a ring.

Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 sc in the ring, join with a sl st (6 sc)

Now, cut your fun fir yarn ONLY (don't cut your worsted weight yarn). Leave a long tail of fun fir and crochet over it as you are crocheting the rest of the flower. Continue to crochet with your worsted weight yarn.

Rnd 2: (ch 3, 2 trc in the same st, ch 3, sl st in the same st, sl st in the next st) repeat this 5 more times. When you are done with this rnd, you should have 6 flower petals.

Rnd 3: sc twice in the next ch 3 space you made in the previous rnd, ch 3, sc in the next st (the trc you made in the last rnd), ch 3, sc in the same st, (ch 3, sc in the next st, ch 3, sc in the same st, ch 3), ({sc twice in the next ch 3 space you made in the previous rnd, sc in the next sl st that you made in the previours rnd, sc twice in the next ch 3 space, (ch 3, sc in the next st, ch 3, sc in the same st) repeat 1 more time, ch 3}) repeat from {( to )} 4 more times, sc twice in the next ch 3 space, sc in the next sl st that you made in the previous rnd. Fasten off.

Small Flower:

For the middle of the flower, you are going to start out crocheting with both yarns together.

With H Hook, ch 4, join with a sl st in the first ch you made to form a ring.

Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 sc in the ring, join with a sl st (6 sc)

Rnd 2: (ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, ch 2, sl st in the same st, sl st in the next st) repeat this 5 more times. When you are done with this rnd you should have 6 flower petals.

Rnd 3: sc once in the next ch 2 space you made in the previous rnd, ch 3, sc in the next st, (the dc st you made in the previous rnd), ch 3, sc in the same st, (ch 3, sc in the next st, ch 3, sc in the same st, ch 3), ({sc once in the next ch 2 space you made in the previous rnd, sc in the next sl st that you made in the previous rnd, sc once in the next ch 2 space, (ch 3, sc in the next st, ch 3, sc in the same st) repeat 1 more time, ch 3}) repeat from ({ to }) 4 more times, sc once in the next ch 2 space, sc in the next sl st that you made in the previous rnd. Fasten off.

Layer your flowers and button and sew them onto your hat. You are finished! Enjoy your hat!

Idaho Falls Temple Picture for your Living Room!

2014-05-24T06:45:00.000-07:00

Have you ever been to the Deseret Book website and wanted to buy one of those beautiful Temple pictures for your home? I do - every time I look. But, my frugal side tells me that I'd better not spend $400+ on a picture...... Maybe someday I will give in to the temptation! But not today.

Since we are in the process of building a new home I am thinking of decorating ideas. I know I want a really big picture of the temple in my living room. I do have a really nice camera, so I thought I would give it a try with my own camera. I ended up taking over 100 pictures of the temple at all angles and so that made it a little bit harder to pick a picture. I finally ended up picking one. I like it because it isn't a straight on picture, but you can still see the front of the temple, and that beautiful Snake River out front.

The problem with the picture is that the Temple is always busy and so there were a bunch of cars and a few bikes and people out front. Luckily I have been learning Photoshop for a few years and so I was able to edit all of the cars and people out of the picture. One of the cars was hard to get out of the picture so I stamped a bush right over it. I can barely tell where it was, can you?

So, with a little bit of Photo shopping from me, and some from my sister in law (thank you!), we finally both came out with a picture that we both just love! She printed out a big copy and framed it for my mom for Christmas, and printed a few for herself. I have one printed out just waiting for me to frame. Since I don't have a place to hang it in my small house it will have to wait for now.

I have decided to share the picture with you today. I hope it helps some of you out because I know we can't all afford to buy a picture of the Temple, but we all want one, right? This is just for personal use. Feel free to print as many as you like for yourself and your friends, and to share the link to the picture (but please don't post the picture on your own website). I also ask that you don't sell the image, or claim it as your own. I am sharing an image of the picture below, but be sure to click on the download now link to download it in full pixels. That way you can print off a very large picture without it pixelating. Just as a tip, I always print my pictures online and have them mailed to me. Easy, right? I use shutterfly, but there are a lot of other online printers you could use as well!

TUTORIAL: Play Date Cardi

2014-04-30T07:58:00.000-07:00

I have been working on a fun new pattern! I just finished it, and I really like the way it turned out. One of my favorite things about this sweater is that it works up pretty fast because it uses worsted weight yarn. This would be a cute spring/summer sweater. If you want to make it warmer for winter, just sew the buttons all the way down the front of the sweater and crochet long sleeves. Now, lets get to the pattern.

Materials Needed:

Worsted Weight number 4 yarn

Crochet Hook Size: H/5-5.00 MM

1” Wooden Buttons

Sharp Needle to weave in your loose ends and sew your buttons on

Abbreviations:

Click here for a list of abbreviations.
Notes:

-Included are instructions for one size:

Size	Chest	Length
0-6 mos	16”	10”

-the ch-2 at the beginning of each row counts as the first st throughout the pattern.

Size 0-6 Months:

With MC, Ch 60;

Row 1: dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 8 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, dc in next 11 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, dc in next 15 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, dc in next 11 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, dc in last 9 sts, turn (63 dc, 4 ch-1 spaces)

Row 2: ch 2 (counts as first dc now and throughout the pattern), skip 1st st, dc in next 9 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in next 13 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in next 17 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in next 13 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in last 10 sts, turn (71 dc, 4 ch-1 spaces)

Row 3: ch 2 , skip 1st st, dc in next 10 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in next 15 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in next 19 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in next 15 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in last 11 sts, turn (89 dc, 4 ch-1 spaces)

Row 4: ch 2 , skip 1st st, dc in next 11 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in next 17 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in next 21 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in next 17 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space, dc in last 12 sts, turn (97 dc, 4 ch-1 spaces)

Shaping the Armhole

Row 5: ch 2, skip the 1^st st, dc in next 12 sts, dc in the next ch-1 space, skip the next 19 sts, dc in the next ch-1 space (armhole made), dc in the next 23 sts, dc in the next ch-1 space, skip the next 17 sts, dc in the next ch-1 space (armhole made), dc in last 13 sts, turn (53 dc)

Row 6: ch 2, skip the 1^st st, dc in each st across, turn (53 dc)

Change color to CC. From here on out, you will need to change colors every 2 rows. For example, crochet rows 7 and 8 in cream color, and then rows 9 and 10 in your main color ect…

Row 7: ch 2, skip the 1^st st, dc in the next 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next st, {(skip the next st, dc in the next st, skip the next st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next st}) repeat from {( to )} until you have 4 sts left, dc in each of the last 4 sts, turn

Row 8: ch 2, skip the 1^st st, dc in the next 3 sts, skip next 2 dc, dc in the next ch-2 space, {(skip the next 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next st, skip the next 2 dc, dc in the next ch-2 space)}, repeat from {( to )} until you have 6 sts left, skip the next 2 sts, dc in each of the last 4 sts, turn

Row 9: ch 2, skip the 1^st st, dc in the next 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next st {(skip the next 2 sts, dc in the next ch-2 space, skip the next 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next st)} repeat from {( to )} until you have 4 sts left, dc in each of the last 4 sts, turn

Row 10: ch 2, skip the 1^st st, dc in the next 3 sts, skip next 2 dc, dc in the next ch-2 space, {(skip the next 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next st, skip the next 2 dc, dc in the next ch-2 space)}, repeat from {( to )} until you have 6 sts left, skip the next 2 sts, dc in each of the last 4 sts, turn

Repeat rows 9 and 10 until your sweater measures 10” in length (or desired length) ending on row 10. When your sweater is the length desired, continue on with the Cardi Trim instructions.

Cardi Trim:

Ch 1 (does not count as the first sc), sc around the entire edge of the cardi evenly. When you are finished, join with a sl st to the first sc, fasten off.

Sleeves:

Join with a sl st in any st around the back of the armhole opening;

Rnd 1: ch 2 (counts as the first dc), work 21 dc evenly around the armhole opening, join with a sl st, turn (21 dc)

Rnd 2: ch 2 (counts as the first dc), dc in each st around, join with a sl st, turn (21 dc)

Rnd 3: ch 1 (does not count as the first sc), sc in the same st, sc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off (21 sc)

Sew the buttons onto the Cardi. You can put just a few buttons at the top, or you can choose to sew them all the way down. The buttons button up in between your double crochets you made at the end of each row.

Optional: You can weave leather cording, or ribbon in and out of your double crochets on rnd 6. I weaved mine in and out of every 2 double crochets. This gives it a nice girly touch.

If you love this pattern, you will love my other cardi patterns available for sale in my Etsy shop! Go and check them out!

TUTORIAL: Easy Baby Doll Blanket

2014-03-26T12:08:00.000-07:00

I am having a lot of fun lately making clothes and accessories for dolls. Last week I showed you how to make a diaper for your doll.

This week, I have been working on doll blankets. I am working on a quilt (coming soon), but today I want to show you how easy it is to make a basic blanket.

Using bias tape to trim the edges is an easy, fun, and cute way to make a doll blanket!

I sometimes like to make my own bias tape, but for this quick blanket I used the store bought kind. Much faster if you ask me.....

So, gather up a few supplies and lets get started!

You will need:
3 yards of 1/2" double fold bias tape.
Cotton fabric for the top of the blanket
Flannel for the bottom of the blanket

You will need to use a rotary mat and cutter to cut two squares from your fabric. For my blanket I used cotton for the top, and flannel for the bottom. The flannel is perfect and gives a soft touch to the inside of the blanket. Cut a 20" by 20" square from your cotton fabric, and from your flannel fabric.

You will want the four corners of the blanket to be rounded so that you can easily pin and sew the bias tape around them. To do that, fold your blanket in half, and then fold it in half again. All four of your corners should now be folded together. You can cut them separate, but I find it easier to cut all four at once. Take a kitchen bowl, or something round and place it on your material where the four corners are. I took a sharpie marker and traced the curve of the bowl onto my fabric.

Now, cut along your mark to round the corners. Repeat this step with your flannel fabric as well.

Place your top and bottom fabric with wrong sides together. If they don't line up perfectly, don't worry. Just do a little bit of trimming until they do line up. I did have to trim mine up a bit.

Now, grab your stash of bias tape and choose a color! Remember that you will use almost 3 yards of bias tape to get all the way around your blanket. Of course, we chose pink. We like pink around here.

You will notice when you look at the bias tape, that one side is just a little bit wider than the other side. You want the widest part of the bias tape to go on the bottom of the blanket, and the more narrow side on the top of the blanket where you will be sewing. That way when you sew it on, you will be sure to catch the bias tape underneath.

Please note that this is not the proper way to sew the bias tape on. For this project, I am going to use the cheater way. It is faster, and it works very will for this project.

Sandwich the two layers of fabric in between the bias tape. Remember that the more narrow part of the bias tape goes on the top. Leave a 7" tail of bias tape before you start to pin. Be sure to start pinning right before one of the curves as shown below. Continue to sandwich the fabric into the bias tape and pin all the way around. You need to leave a 9-10" gap between where you started pinning and where you end. Leave a 7" tail on the end of your bias tape, and then you can cut it. You are ready to start sewing!

Start sewing right after your first pin, sew all the way around the blanket and then stop at the last pin. Make sure you leave that 10" opening and don't sew on it.

Be sure to back stitch at both ends. Sew as close to the inside edge of the bias tape as you can.

When you are finished, here is what your blanket should look like. You can see where I sewed and that I left that 10" gap open for now.

You will now need to trim the tails of bias tape that you left. They will need to overlap by 1/2" as pictured below. I used my ruler to make sure they overlapped by 1/2", and then I cut the ends.

With the right sides of the bias tape together, pin.

Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew them together.

Fold the bias tape back up.

Sandwich it over your fabric, and pin.

Sew those last 10" closed. Be sure to back stitch at both ends. You are finished!

Wrap your doll in her new blanket and it is playtime! Enjoy!

TUTORIAL: Doll Diaper plus Pattern!

2014-03-23T09:44:00.003-07:00

This weekend I made diapers for my little girl's doll. I probably made more than she needs, but it was so much fun to watch her face light up as I got each one of them finished!

I designed the pattern to fit her Bitty Baby Doll. But, I also realize that some of you may have a different size doll.... So, I made the waistband adjustable. It may not fit all of your dolls and stuffed animals, but this will make it more likely to.

I wanted it to be a nice and tight fit so that we could fit the doll's pants over the diaper, and it worked out well!

Today I am excited to share the tutorial with you.

Here is what you will need:

1/4 yard or a fat quarter of cotton fabric.

Coordinating thread

1/2" sew in Velcro. I have tried the stick on kind, and didn't like it. It eventually comes off. If you try to sew it on, it will gum up your needle and the needle will have to be replaced. I highly recommend the sew in kind that is not sticky.

Before starting, you will need to download and print the pattern. You used to be able to click on a link here on the blog and print the pattern, but blogger changed something and people aren't able to access it anymore. I can't figure it out... So you can find the pattern and some instructions to print it on my Facebook Page. The post should be pinned to the top. Copy and paste this link into your search bar https://www.facebook.com/littleabbee

After you have printed the pattern, cut it out and you are ready to go. There is a 1" box on the pattern so that you can measure and be sure that you printed the pattern the right size. You don't want to cut into your nice fabric until you double check.

Now go grab your stash of fabric and choose some cute prints! This is a great way to use up extra scraps of fabric.

When looking at your pattern piece, you will notice that you need to cut the straight side out on the fold. This just means that you will need to fold your fabric, and pin your pattern with the straight side on the fold. Don't cut on the fold side.

You will need to cut two pieces of fabric for each diaper you want to make.

With right sides together put 4 pins on the back of the diaper about 3" apart. This is just to remind you not to sew in between them. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew all the way around the diaper where you see the dashed lines. Be sure to leave the space in between the pins open. This is where you will turn your diaper right side out when you are finished sewing..

Here is what it should look like when you are finished.

Now, trim your seam allowance. I like to cut about half of it off, making sure that I don't cut into the sewing. I always do this when I make doll clothes. Doll clothes are so small anyways, and I think that it cuts down on the bulk. This will also make it easier to get the curved lines flat when you turn the diaper right side out and iron it. Here is how it will look after you trim it:

Now, turn it right side out. It is really important to iron it at this point. Fold the little opening at the top in and iron it down as well so that it is even with the rest of the diaper. When you topstitch around the diaper it will close up the opening.

Now, topstitch around the outer edges of the entire diaper. Sew as close to the edge as you can.

Now, you need to cut your Velcro. Cut out a 4" piece (soft side) for the front of the diaper.

With the right side of the diaper facing up, pin the Velcro to the top of the diaper about 1/4" from the top edge.

Sew around all 4 sides of the Velcro as close to the edge as you can get. I just sew right over my pins.

Now you will need to cut 2 pieces of Velcro (hard side) to sew to the sides of the diaper. Cut them so that they are 1" long. You will need to sew these to the back side of your diaper. Turn it over so that the wrong side is facing up and pin the Velcro on about 1/4" from the edge.

Sew around all 4 sides of the Velcro as close to the edge as you can get. Here is how it should look:

You are finished! Fast and easy project, right? Just fold the top up and the sides in.

I made six of these diapers, and my little girl loves to change her Bitty Baby's diaper. You may need to make some more, you never know when she will need a diaper change. It is fun to have a bunch of different colors to choose from! Enjoy!

TUTORIAL: American Girl Crochet Hat

2014-03-20T15:55:00.000-07:00

Lately, I have been having so much fun making my girls clothes for their dolls. My latest project was these cute crochet hats. They fit nice and tight, and I love the way they look on the dolls. I am sharing the pattern with you today so that you can make a few for your dolls too!

The yarn I used for this hat I purchased online from Fabric.com. It is called Cotton Classic Yarn. They have changed their website up a bit and I haven't been able to find it recently, so I am not sure if they are still selling it. This is my favorite yarn for crocheting Doll hats, so I hope I can find some more in the future.

Materials Needed:
DK weight yarn (#3)
Crochet hook size: F 5/3.74 MM

Click HERE for a list of abbreviations.

Notes:
-Gauge: 4 sts and 5 rows = 1" (2.5 cm) The gauge is for sc rows. If your gauge is not right, go up or down a size crochet hook in order to get the right gauge.

Instructions:
Make a magic loop, ch 1;

Rnd 1: 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1 (12 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1 (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: ch 3 (counts as the first dc), dc in the same st you just joined in, ch 1, 2 dc in the same st, skip the next 3 sts, {(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in the next st, skip the next 3 sts} repeat from {to} 8 more times, join with a sl st to the first dc (40 dc, 10 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 6-8: sl st in the next dc, sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 3, (counts as the first dc), dc in the same ch-1 space, ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 space, skip the next 4 dc, {(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in the next ch-1 space, skip the next 4 dc} repeat from {to} 8 more times, join with a sl st to the first dc (40 dc, 10 ch-1 spaces)

Rnd 9: ch 1 (does not count as the first sc), sc in the same st as you just joined in, sc in the next st, skip the next ch-1 space, sc in the next 2 sts (sc in the next 2 sts, skip the next ch-1 space, sc in the next 2 sts) repeat around, join with a sl st to the first sc (40 sc)

Work in the BLO for the last 3 rnds.

Rnd 10-12: sc in each st around, join with a sl st (40 sc)

Fasten off, weave in your loose end and you are finished!

Enjoy your Doll Hat!

TUTORIAL: Allie the Owl

2014-02-03T09:43:00.000-08:00

Materials Needed:

-Worsted Weight #4 Yarn. I used 100% cotton yarn, but 100% acrylic yarn would work with great results as well!
-Crochet Hook Size: E/4-3.50MM
-Sharp Needle for sewing pieces together
-Size 8 mm Black Plastic Eyes
-Stuffing
-Safety Pin for marking your Rnds

Abbreviations:

See my list of abbreviations by clicking here.

Notes:

The Owl's body and wings are all crocheted in the round without joining at the end of each round. Be sure to mark your rounds with a safety pin.

Gauge for E Hook: 4 sts in 5 rows = 1" (5 cm)

If your gauge is not right, go up or down a size crochet hook in order to get the right gauge. When I am crocheting stuffed animals, I tend to crochet a lot tighter than normal so that no stuffing shows through.

-Finished measurement of the Owl: 5" tall, 3" wide (at the widest part)

Eyes: (Be sure to make the eyes first) Make 2

With white yarn, make a magic ring, ch 1;

Rnd 1: 6 sc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first sc (6 sc) Pull on the tail end to tighten up the ring.

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with a sl st to the first sc (12 sc)

Rnd 3: ch 1, (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) repeat around, join with a sl st to the first sc (18 sc)

Rnd 4: sl st in each st around, join with a sl st into the first sl st, fasten off (18 sl st)

Head and Body:

With purple yarn, make a magic ring, ch 1;

Rnd 1: 6 sc in the ring (6 sc) Pull on the tail end to tighten up the ring.

Put your safety pin or stitch marker in the first sc you made in rnd 1 and move it up as you go along to mark your rnds.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 sc)

Rnd 3: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) repeat around (18 sc)

Rnd 4: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts) repeat around (24 sc)

Rnd 5: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 3 sts) repeat around (30 sc)

Rnd 6: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 4 sts) repeat around (36 sc)

Rnd 7-11: sc in each st around (36 sc)

Change color to white

Rnd 12: sc in each st around (36 sc)

Rnd 13: (sc2tog, sc in the next 4 sts) repeat around (30 sc)

Insert the eyes. First, take the round white eye that you made and insert your plastic eye into the middle. Then insert in between rnds 11 and 12 about 1" apart.

Rnd 14-21: sc in each st around (30 sc)

Rnd 22: (sc2tog, sc in the next 3 sts) repeat around (24 sc)

Rnd 23: (sc2tog, sc in the next 2 sts) repeat around (18 sc)

Stuff the Body Firmly.

Rnd 24: (sc2tog, sc in the next st) repeat around (12 sc)

Rnd 25: (sc2tog) repeat around (6 sc) Fasten off, and close up the hole with the yarn end. Weave in your loose end.

Wings: (Make 2)

With purple yarn, make a magic ring, ch 1;

Rnd 1: 6 sc in the ring (6 sc) Pull on the tail end to tighten up the ring.

Put your safety pin or stitch marker in the first sc you made in rnd 1 and move it up as you go along to mark your rnds.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 sc)

Rnd 3: sc in each st around (12 sc)

Rnd 4: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) repeat around (18 sc)

Rnd 5-9: sc in each st around (18 sc)

Rnd 10: (sc2tog, sc in the next st) repeat around (12 sc)

Rnd 11: (sc2tog) repeat around (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the wing to the body.

Beak:

With orange yarn, make a magic ring, ch 1;

Row 1: sc in the ring 5 times (5 sc) pull on the tail end to tighten up the ring.

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sl st in the next 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the next st, sl st in the last 2 sts, fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the beak to the head.

Feet: (make 2)

With orange yarn, make a magic ring, ch 1;

Row 1: sc in the ring 5 times (5 sc) pull on the tail end to tighten up the ring.

Row 2: ch 2, dc in the same st, ch 2, sl st in the same st, (sl st in the next st, ch 2, dc in the same st, ch 2, sl st in the same st) repeat once more, fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the foot to the body.

Finishing:

Sew beak in between the eyes using a sharp needle. Sew the wings to the body, and the feet to the body. You can use the picture below as your guide. Weave in your loose ends and you are done!

This pattern is copyrighted and may not be copied. Please see my terms of use.

TECHNIQUE: Loop Stitch

2013-11-26T10:06:00.000-08:00

I have a new pattern up for sale in my Etsy Shop for a Stocking Ornament. In this pattern, I use the loop stitch for a few rnds. I also use the loop stitch quite a bit in my Horse Pattern. This stitch can be a little bit tricky, and since I am using it more and more in my patterns, I decided that I would add a step by step picture tutorial to my blog. This stitch is an advanced stitch, and can sometimes be very frustrating when you are first learning. Don't be disappointed if it takes a while to get it down, just keep practicing!

In my patterns, I abbreviate this stitch as LSsc (which means Loop Stitch Single Crochet)

I used DK weight yarn and a size G hook, but be sure to use the yarn and hook that your crochet pattern calls for. For this tutorial, I crocheted a half circle in a teal color, and changed the loop stitches to a red color so that it would be easy to see and follow. Please note that there are a lot of different ways to crochet a loop stitch, but this is my favorite way!

Insert your hook in the stitch indicated

and pull up a loop (there will be 2 loops on your hook)

Put your thumb on the two loops on your crochet hook to hold them down and keep it there as you are crocheting the next step (this is very important)

Insert your hook into the same stitch (see how my thumb is holding the two loops on the hook),

Make a large loop with your yarn end using your index finger on your left hand (I say large loop because you can adjust it down later) As you can see below that I am not holding the two loops with my thumb because I had to use that hand to take this picture. But you do need to keep holding those two loops for now.

Pull up a loop (there will be 3 loops on your crochet hook). You can now remove your thumb. You can see in the picture below that you have your 3 loops on your hook, and the large loop that you just made. You can now adjust the loop to the size that you would like or that your pattern calls for. If you pull on the yarn end, the loop will adjust smaller. If you pull up on the loop you can make the loop larger. I always try to make my loops the same size by eyeballing it. Some patterns will call for very large loops, and some will call for small loops. It just depends on what you are making.

As soon as you have your loop adjusted to the right size, wrap your yarn over your hook,

And pull through all 3 loops on your hook.

You are finished with one LSsc (loop stitch single crochet)!

Here is how the inside of your project will look:

And here is how the outside will look with the loops:

I crocheted one row of loop stitches to this project just to show you the end result

Pretty cute huh? I love the loop stitch, there are endless possibilities with this stitch! Here are a few pictures of projects I have made using the loop stitch:

I used the loop stitch on the top of my stocking ornament, and on the hair and tail of my horse crochet pattern. I sell both of these patterns in my Etsy Shop.

Have fun with it!

Jill the Giraffe crochet pattern

2013-10-11T10:43:00.000-07:00

I am excited to announce that the Jill the Giraffe Pattern is finally here!

$5.50 - Jill the Giraffe PDF Crochet Pattern

Your Jill the Giraffe Pattern is available to purchase here! The digital eBook, including pictures and instructions will be emailed to your Paypal email address.

**Materials**Gauge**Pictures**

(all included in the pattern)

Description

This is a Crochet Pattern for an adorable little Giraffe named Jill. She is a sweet little girl, and is so fun to make. The finished product is outstanding!

The pattern/tutorial is 18 pages long and includes lots of pictures. It also includes instructions for a dress and shoes. Her clothes are removable, so go ahead and crochet her a few extra dresses and shoes!

I felted the spots onto the giraffe. Remember that this step is just optional, she looks just as cute without her spots. Felting is easy if you have a few tools. I have included instructions on how I felted the spots onto my giraffe.

Materials Needed:

-Worsted Weight #4 Yarn for the Giraffe Body. I used 100% acrylic Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Baby Yarn in these three colors; Lamb, Duckie, and Chocolate Cake

-DK weight yarn for the shoes and dress.

-Crochet Hook Size: E/4-3.50MM for the Giraffe

-Crochet Hook Size: F/5-3.75MM for the shoes and dress

-Sharp Needle for sewing pieces together

-Size 8 MM Black Plastic Eyes. I buy my eyes from 6060's Etsy shop here.

-Stuffing

-Safety Pin for marking your Rnds

-Brown Wool Roving for felting the spots (optional)

-Needle Felting Tool (optional)

-Black embroidery thread for the nose

-Small plastic buttons for the shoes

Skill Level is advanced. You will need to know how to make a magic ring, how to single crochet, half double crochet, increase, decrease, and how to crochet in the Back Loop Only. You also need to know how to change colors.

Finished measurement of the giraffe: Total height from her bottom to her head (sitting down position) is 7.5”. Her width at her widest part (her waist) is about 4".

I offer full support for all of my patterns. If you have any questions as you are making your giraffe, feel free to email me.

**Please be honest**

I took quite a few pictures of this little girl. Enjoy!

The picture below is a Giraffe that was made by Jennifer Neerhof who tested this pattern for me. She is very talented in crochet. I love his eyes, how adorable! And her pictures are just amazing. She did a great job!

I can't wait to see all of the cute litte Giraffes that you guys make!

Bitty Baby Sleep Sack Tutorial

2013-09-04T15:19:00.001-07:00

I have been working on this sweet little doll pattern for a few months... I worked on it for a while and put it down for a few weeks. But today I am excited to announce that I have finally finished it! Really it doesn't take very long to make, I just get side tracked sometimes. So, here is what you will need to get started:

Materials Needed:
DK weight yarn (#3)
Crochet Hook Size: F/5-3.75 MM
Sharp Needle for sewing your zipper in
6 inch zipper (be sure that you don't buy the separating zippers) I buy my zippers on here on Etsy.

click Abbreviations for a list of the most commonly used crochet abbreviations

Notes:
-Gauge: 4 sts and 4 rows = 1" (2.5 cm) If your gauge is nor right, go up or down a size crochet hook in order to get the right gauge.

Instructions:

Ch 41

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook (beginning chain does not count as the first st now and throughout the pattern) and in each ch across (40 hdc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, (2 hdc in the next hdc, hdc in the next 3 hdc) repeat across (50 hdc)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, (2 hdc in the next hdc, hdc in the next 4 hdc) repeat across (60 hdc)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, (2 hdc in the next hdc, hdc in the next 5 hdc) repeat across (70 hdc)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, (2 hdc in the next hdc, hdc in the next 6 hdc) repeat across (80 hdc)

Row 6: ch 1, turn, (2 hdc in the next hdc, hdc in the next 7 hdc) repeat across (90 hdc)

Row 7: ch 1, turn, (2 hdc in the next hdc, hdc in the next 8 hdc) repeat across (100 hdc)

Row 8: ch 1, turn (2 hdc in the next hdc, hdc in the next 9 hdc) repeat across (110 hdc)

Row 9-10: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across (110 hdc)

Divide for the Sleeves

Row 11: ch 1, turn, hdc in the next 17 sts, skip the next 20 sts, hdc in the next 36 sts, skip the next 20 sts, hdc in the next 17 sts (70 hdc)

Row 12-23: ch 1, turn hdc in each hdc across (70 hdc)

Shaping the bottom of the sleep sack

-Please note that you will be working in the round for the rest of the pattern. You will also be joining at the end of each rnd.

Rnd 24: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to the first hdc you made in this rnd (70 hdc)

Rnd 25-42: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st (70 hdc)

Fasten off.

Sewing the seam on the bottom of the sleep sack

Join with a sl st on either side of the bottom of the sleep sack. Sew the bottom of the sleep sack closed by slip stitching the two sides together all the way across, fasten off.

You can also sew this together using a needle and thread of you prefer. I prefer to sew it with slip stitches because it is faster and easier for me.

Sleeves:

Rnd 1: working around the armhole opening, join with a sl st at the underarm and hdc 24 hdc evenly around, join with a sl st to the first hdc (24 hdc)

Rnd 2-11: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to the first hdc (24 hdc)

Rnd 12: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to the first sc (24 sc)

Repeat for the other sleeve.

Finishing:

Hand sew your zipper in place at the front of the sleep sack. Weave in your loose ends and you are finished!

I can't wait to see the sleep sacks that all of you crochet!

Ellie Doll Dress Sewing Pattern!

2013-09-04T14:18:00.000-07:00

I am excited to announce that I have finally finished my first Bitty Baby Doll Dress sewing pattern!

$3.99 - Ellie Doll Dress

Your Ellie Doll Dress Sewing Pattern is available to purchase here! The digital eBook, including pictures and instructions will be emailed to your Paypal email address.

**Materials**Computer Generated Full Size Pattern**

(all included in the pattern)

Description

This is a sewing pattern designed specifically for a Bitty Baby American Girl Doll. This little dress is so fun to make, and turns out so cute! With this pattern you have the option to make a long sleeved flannel nightgown, or a short sleeve cotton dress. It includes short and long sleeves, and a short or a long dress. You could easily shorten the dress to make a cute little shirt as well. It has a Velcro closure on the back of the dress. The pattern/ E-book is 19 pages long and includes 40 step by step pictures. The pattern pieces are computer generated and full size so you will just print them, cut them out, and pin them to your material. A list of the materials you will need is included in the pattern.

The skill level is medium. With the step by step pictures provided it would be easy for a beginner to make.

Cozy Cardi Pattern is here!

2013-08-31T13:34:00.001-07:00

I am excited to announce that the Cozy Cardi Pattern is finally here!

$5.50 - Cozy Cardi PDF Crochet Pattern

Your Cozy Cardi Crochet Pattern is available to purchase here! The digital eBook, including pictures and instructions will be emailed to your Paypal email address.

**Materials**Size Chart**Yardage Chart**

(all included in the pattern)

Description

This is a super cute crochet pattern for a Cozy Cardigan. It is quick, easy and sure to become a favorite! It is crocheted in one piece from the top down with the sleeves added after the body is crocheted. Features a cute textured pattern for the bottom of the sweater and the sleeves. The pattern includes instructions for long sleeves and for short sleeves! It looks super cute with either one!

I have included pictures of me making the preemie size for you to reference as you are making your Cardigan. You can use these pictures if you are making a larger size, just keep in mind that your cardi will be larger with more rows. But the pictures do give you a general idea of what yours should look like as you are crocheting it, and they are a big help.

The pattern includes a size chart for the finished measurements of each size so that it will be easier for you to determine what size you want to make. It also includes a yarn yardage chart.

Size Range

I have included 10 different children's sizes for this pattern; preemie, 3 months, 6 months, 12 months, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5T, 6/7, and 8. Instructions for each size are written out separately for easier understanding. I have included a page numbers chart so that if you want to print the pattern you will know which pages to print for each size.

This sweater is designed to be a 'fitted sweater'. If you would like yours to be a little bit bigger, just crochet one size up.

This pattern has been tested by 10 different crocheters. Thank you to Jamie Fox for the use of her beautiful picture and for testing this pattern for me. She also makes and sells these in her Etsy Shop for any of you who would like one made for you. I would also like to thank Shilo Horsman, Stevee Gooder, Jessica Moore, Vimi Hary, Jennifer Callaghan, and Kylie Fergen for testing this pattern for me. They all did a fantastic job!

I can't wait to see all of the cute litte cardi's that you guys make!

TUTORIAL: Crochet Bridal Garter

2013-08-02T12:05:00.000-07:00

My little sister just got married last month! I wanted to make her something...... I teased her and told her I was going to crochet her a wedding cake. But ultimately I decided that I would make her a simple Garter. She loved it! Today, I would like to share the pattern with you. So lets get started!

Materials Needed:

-Size 1/2.75MM Crochet Hook

-Two colors of size 10 Crochet Thread.

-3/8" Elastic. The amount you will need will depend on the measurement of your thigh. I will explain later on in the pattern.

-You will either need a sewing machine to sew the elastic together, or you can hand sew it with a needle and some thread.

Abbreviations:

Please see my Abbreviations Chart.

Notes:

Cluster Stitch: yo insert hook in ch 4 space, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on the hook, (2 more times), yo and draw through all 4 loops on the hook.

-The gauge for this pattern doesn't matter too much because you are making this custom to fit your size depending on how you cut the elastic. However, you do need to make sure that your dtr stitches in rnd 1 are tall enough that you will be able to weave your 3/8" elastic through them when you are finished with your project. If you need to, you can use a larger hook.

Instructions:

With your main color of crochet thread ch 220, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large ring.

Rnd 1: ch 4 (counts as the first dtr), dtr in each ch around, join with a sl st to the first dtr (220 dtr)

Rnd 2: ch 1 (does not count as the first sc), sc in the same st as you just joined in, sc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off (220 sc)

Join with a sl st into any sc with your next color of crochet thread

Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in the same st as you just joined in, ch 4, (skip the next 3 sts, sc in the next st, ch 4), repeat all the way around until you have 3 sts left, skip the last 3 sts, sl st into the first st to join, fasten off (55 ch 4 spaces)

Rnd 4: join with a sl st into any sc from the previous rnd, {(ch 3, work cluster (in notes section above), ch 3, sl st into the previous st (your cluster), ch 3, sl st into the next sc)} repeat from {( to )} around, join with a sl st to the first sc, fasten off.

Rnd 5, 6, and 7: With your main color of yarn, join with a sl st into any dtr on the opposite side of the garter. Repeat rnds 2, 3 and 4.

Weave in your loose ends.

Measure all the way around your thigh where you would like your garter to sit, and then add 1 inch. This is the length you will need to cut your elastic.

Weave your elastc through your dtr stitches you crocheted from rnd 1. I weaved mine in and out of every two stitches. You will need to sew the two elastic ends together with either a sewing machine or a needle and thread.

You can crochet any flower that you would like. I crocheted a double layered flower from my Madison Hat Pattern. I have a few free flower patterns in my tutorials section that you could crochet as well. I just hand sewed the flower right to the elastic using my loose end and a sharp sewing needle.

Enjoy your Bridal Garter!

I would love it if you would share your pictures with me on facebook!

Tutorial: Basic Crochet Hat!

2013-07-13T11:43:00.000-07:00

I love to make hats! I make them for my kids, nieces, friends and my kids friends... I have even sold a few, though I don't sell finished crochet items anymore. With a basic hat pattern, you can make all sorts of fun and creative hats. It is so easy!

Today, I am going to share my basic crochet hat pattern with you in all of the different sizes. There are a lot of different basic hat patterns, but I find that this is the one that I like to use the most. This pattern is very versatile. You can make a beanie, or you can add earflaps. You can add crochet tassels, or braided tassels. Or.... leave the tassels off. Whatever your style. As soon as you get the basic hat idea down, you can add different stitches so that your hat has texture. Add different colors to make stripes. The possibilities are endless.

In the next few months I will be sharing all sorts of different hat patterns with you using the basic hat pattern. This is going to be fun!

So, here is my basic hat pattern. Enjoy!

For a list of abbreviations click here.

materials needed:
-worsted weight yarn
-crochet hook size: H/805.00MM
-sharp needle for weaving your loose ends and sewing your embellishments to your hat
-scissors

notes:
-This pattern is written in 6 different sizes so that you can crochet one for everyone! Each size is written out separately to make it easier for a beginner to read, so scroll down to the size that you would like to make.

-Gauge: 6 sts in 5 rows = 2" (5 cm) If your gauge is not right, go up or down a size crochet hook in order to get the right gauge. Be sure to check your gauge so that your hat will turn out the right size.

-Crochet over your loose ends as you go along so you won't have as many to weave in when you are done with your hat.

-The pictures that are included are for size 0-3 months. If you are making a larger size hat your hat will have more stitches and rows than the pictures provided. The pictures are just a basic idea of what your hat should look like as you are making it.

-Here is a chart of what the finished measurement of each hat should be. If you want your hat to be longer or shorter, you can always add or subtract Rnds before you crochet the trim.

And here we go!!

Size 0-3 months:

With any color of yarn, make a magic loop, ch 1

Rnd 1: ch 1, 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1, turn (12 hdc)

Pull on the tail end to tighten up the ring.

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (40 hdc)

Rnd 5-9: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (40 hdc)

Rnd 10: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, (40 hdc)

Trim: You can use the same color yarn, or a different color to crochet the trim. If you are using the same color yarn, do not fasten off. If you decide to use a different color, fasten off. If you do use a different color, join with a sl st in any stitch near where you fastened off and then continue on with rnd 11.

Rnd 11: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off. Weave in your loose end and you are finished!

Size 3-6 months:

With any color of yarn, make a magic loop, ch 1

Rnd 1: ch 1, 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1, turn (12 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: (hdc in the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (44 hdc)

Rnd 6-11: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (44 hdc)

Rnd 12: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, (44 hdc)

Trim: You can use the same color yarn, or a different color to crochet the trim. If you are using the same color yarn, do not fasten off. If you decide to use a different color, fasten off. If you do use a different color, join with a sl st in any stitch near where you fastened off and then continue on with rnd 13.

Rnd 13: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off. Weave in your loose end and you are finished!

Size 6-12 months:

With any color of yarn, make a magic loop, ch 1

Rnd 1: ch 1, 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1, turn (12 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: (hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (48 hdc)

Rnd 6-12: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (48 hdc)

Rnd 13: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, (48 hdc)

Trim: You can use the same color yarn, or a different color to crochet the trim. If you are using the same color yarn, do not fasten off. If you decide to use a different color, fasten off. If you do use a different color, join with a sl st in any stitch near where you fastened off and then continue on with rnd 14.

Rnd 14: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off. Weave in your loose end and you are finished!

Size 12 months - 3 years:

With any color of yarn, make a magic loop, ch 1

Rnd 1: ch 1, 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1, turn (12 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: (hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (48 hdc)

Rnd 6: (hdc in the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (52 hdc)

Rnd 7-14: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (52 hdc)

Rnd 15: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, (52 hdc)

Trim: You can use the same color yarn, or a different color to crochet the trim. If you are using the same color yarn, do not fasten off. If you decide to use a different color, fasten off. If you do use a different color, join with a sl st in any stitch near where you fastened off and then continue on with rnd 16.

Rnd 16: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off. Weave in your loose end and you are finished!

Size 3-10 years:

With any color of yarn, make a magic loop, ch 1

Rnd 1: ch 1, 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1, turn (12 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: (hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (48 hdc)

Rnd 6: (hdc in the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (56 hdc)

Rnd 7-15: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (56 hdc)

Rnd 16: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, (56 hdc)

Trim: You can use the same color yarn, or a different color to crochet the trim. If you are using the same color yarn, do not fasten off. If you decide to use a different color, fasten off. If you do use a different color, join with a sl st in any stitch near where you fastened off and then continue on with rnd 17.

Rnd 17: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off. Weave in your loose end and you are finished!

Size 3-10 years:

With any color of yarn, make a magic loop, ch 1

Rnd 1: ch 1, 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1, turn (12 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: (hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (48 hdc)

Rnd 6: (hdc in the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (56 hdc)

Rnd 7-15: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (56 hdc)

Rnd 16: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, (56 hdc)

Trim: You can use the same color yarn, or a different color to crochet the trim. If you are using the same color yarn, do not fasten off. If you decide to use a different color, fasten off. If you do use a different color, join with a sl st in any stitch near where you fastened off and then continue on with rnd 17.

Rnd 17: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off. Weave in your loose end and you are finished!

Size 10 years - Adult

With any color of yarn, make a magic loop, ch 1

Rnd 1: ch 1, 12 hdc in the ring, join with a sl st to the first hdc, ch 1, turn (12 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (24 hdc)

Rnd 3: (hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (32 hdc)

Rnd 4: (hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: (hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (48 hdc)

Rnd 6: (hdc in the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (56 hdc)

Rnd 7: (hdc in the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (64 hdc)

Rnd 8-18: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1, turn (64 hdc)

Rnd 19: hdc in each st around, join with a sl st, (64 hdc)

Trim: You can use the same color yarn, or a different color to crochet the trim. If you are using the same color yarn, do not fasten off. If you decide to use a different color, fasten off. If you do use a different color, join with a sl st in any stitch near where you fastened off and then continue on with rnd 20.

Rnd 20: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st, fasten off. Weave in your loose end and you are finished!

Now that you are finished with your hat, you can add embellishments. I have a lot of different crochet flowers in my tutorials section that you could add as an embellishment if you would like. I added this flower to my hat, and just sewed it onto my hat with the loose end on the flower. Be sure to leave a long loose end if you are going to sew a flower to your hat.

If you want to make a matching crochet hat for your daughter's American Girl 18" doll, or for a Bitty Baby Doll, make newborn size. I have found that the newborn size fits them perfectly!

Next I will be posting about how to crochet earflaps onto your hat if you would like to. Be sure to check back!

Crochet Abbreviations

2013-07-13T09:18:00.000-07:00

This is not a complete list of crochet abbreviations, but it is a good list for beginners. These are the abbreviations that I find that I use the most in my patterns. I will be adding to this list as I list free crochet patterns with new abbreviations in them.

ch: chain
st: stitch
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
trc: triple crochet
tr: treble crochet
dtr: double triple crochet
yo: yarn over
sp: space
sk: skip
fpdc: front post double crochet
bpdc: back post double crochet
sc2tog: single crochet two together (decrease)
bl: back loop
blo: back loop only

Crochet abbreviations are an important part of reading a crochet pattern. You can always come back to this as much as you need to!