livecostarica

New Chapter

2010-10-21T17:22:00.013-06:00

It feels like a new chapter is beginning.

We just sold our house in La Paz, San Ramon. It's been a rich few years. From my urban childhood in Brooklyn, NY to the pristine natural world in La Paz is quite a trip. We are forever connected and grateful to the Arias family for being there for us in so many ways during our time in La Paz.

It's time for something new, the next chapter.

The new owners are great people and it has a been a fun transition. We are excited for them as they put their personality, ideas and more into making Quinta Mama their place.

For me, I'm going to keep life simple for awhile. I'm exercising daily, cooking and eating well, hanging with friends/family and making space for the new chapter as it unfolds.

The Streets of San Ramon

2010-10-21T17:20:00.018-06:00

After being a country guy these last few years in Costa Rica, I spent last week downtown on the streets of San Ramon. I love the energy of so many people outside ... walking, sitting in the park, chatting with friends. The near perfect 70 degree and sunny weather is a major contributing factor.

I stayed at Hotel La Posada which was comical, comfortable and convenient. The comical part is that after 8+ years living in San Ramon, I have never stayed at a hotel.

Many of the people I've met over the years I ran into on the streets, which helped me feel connected and cared for. The tradition of kissing the women and shaking hands with men just brings you closer.

I have a list of things I always do when I arrive in Costa Rica that seem too expensive when I'm in Ithaca, NY. I love fueling the local economy and indulging, but also feel grateful at how fair and modest the prices are. I visited Dra. Jenny, the dentist and had my teeth checked, cleaned and a cavity filled. Oljer gives the best massages and helped put me in the pura vida mode. Then to my old fashioned barber shop for a haircut and shave that had me styling and relaxed.

In the evening, I met Jimmy and other friends at Bocaditos for drinks and dinner. Very civilized, inexpensive and social. I love their fish in garlic sauce w/potatoes and salad; C1900/$3.75. It was lively and happening every time I was there and the open air setting is festive and fun. I also visited Alonso and Sergio at Rincon Poeta, my former haunt for many years.

An alt to the bar scene has developed in San Ramon recently. The afternoon coffee and pastry scene is thriving and well done. I spent sessions with friends at both Cafe Delicias and Cafe Aroma throughout my week. Cafe con leche, milkshakes, chocolate cake, sticky buns and more gave me the sugar rush I needed.

Life has many sides. I love the beauty and tranquility of La Paz, but this week I was thriving on the gritty, bustling streets of San Ramon. I am amazed when I feel how I am immersed in this small Costa Rica city. Lots of smiling faces, people calling my name and a real sense of belonging.

Eat Pray Love

2010-08-12T11:00:00.000-06:00

On the long plane ride to Costa Rica, I devoured the book Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert. It is the story of a divorced woman who feels broken and her journey back to life. She divides a year into 3 – four month periods where she eats in Italy, prays in India and loves in Indonesia (and does lots of other stuff also).

I cried, laughed, and shook my head as an exclamation point as I read the book. When I came to San Ramon, I was in a similar place to the author. Sometimes you need a physical journey to shake your life up. No old friends or family, no familiarity, no patterns and no idea where it is all going.

Everybody has their own way of transformation and their magical people and places that impact them in big ways. This is a cool book for anyone who needs some inspiration to make their life a true reflection of themselves.

A special thanks to my friend Greg who gave me this book. Over coffee, beer, tequila and food we’ve spent 28 years supporting each other through our ups and downs. Sometimes a friend can believe in you even when you don’t believe in yourself.

They say life is about the journey not the destination. Check out Eat Pray Love to stimulate your own personal journey.

Unique Opportunity: House for Sale in San Ramon, Costa Rica

2010-06-17T09:45:00.000-06:00

Moving to a foreign country can be a daunting experience. Rather than an exercise solely in price and value, there are many other issues to creating a successful and happy life ... after the purchase. We have a house for sale in La Paz, outside San Ramon that is all set up for a new owner to enjoy Costa Rica and move smoothly into life in another country and culture with no hassles. We are offering OUR very special, San Ramon home for sale.

After 8 years in San Ramon, Costa Rica ... we are integrated into the local scene as few foreigners are. While many ex-pats flocked to the beach, we found that living in the mountain town of San Ramon a far better alternative. It has milder weather, real Costa Rican culture, a hospital and university and is just 45 minutes from the international airport and an hour from the Pacific Ocean.

We bought this home, Quinta Mama, from an 80-year-old Tica who connected with Janet over the gardens and peaceful porch sitting. In the past two years, the house has been totally renovated to highlight it's charm yet upgrade with new plumbing, electric, hot water, finished ceilings, two new bathrooms, and many finishing decorative touches. This is no easy task in a very different culture, but Janet's experience as an architect and preservationist and my relationships with contractors, neighbors and building supply stores made for a smooth and successful upgrade.

The house is located in La Paz about 20 minutes on a paved road from San Ramon, yet offers a rural lifestyle and environment from another era. The friendliness and slow pace of life in La Paz is unique in a rapidly changing world. Our neighbors use oxen to transport their sugar cane and their life revolves around their family and community. A few other ex-pats have joined us here over the last few years attracted to the natural beauty and quiet lifestyle. It is also an area where a number of Costa Rican professionals have simple weekend homes.

La Paz is one of the more pristine places in the world. About a mile past our house, the road ends for vehicles at the river crossing and horses are needed to continue. At this point, it is all nature with reserves and conservation land stretching all the way to Arenal, Monteverde and Santa Elena. The air and water are as pure as it gets and the area is a haven for birds and butterflies. The house itself is on the route of the Quetzal and the numerous flowering shrubs and trees provide refuge to other rare birds who make our land their home.

Our land is totally organic and bursting with fruit trees, vegetables and flowering shrubs. The half acre plot is all accessible and can feed many families. As a guy originally from NYC, it's been ironic eating all this amazing food from just outside my house ... year round. I love taking hikes in these hills and there is easy swimming and fishing in the river.

Of course the most important thing in owning a home in Costa Rica is the neighbors. We have been accepted as part of the community. Everybody in La Paz knows us by name and always has time to say hi and smile as they pass. The kids come by and practice their English and eat bananas. I have learned how to make fresh tortillas and empanandas with the Arias family from corn grown on our land.

Our neighbors also take care of our house when we are gone. The gardens are tended and the house is safe and clean. This is the real Costa Rica which is getting harder to find as development transforms the country.

Due to some family health issues, we need to sell our home at this time. The price of $88,000 includes everything; just bring a suitcase. Taxes are $25 a year and electric, phone and water bills are each $5-10 a month.

We are ready to help the next owners enjoy this very special place and make it their own. For more photos and info go to www.costaricapm.com/mtn_quintamama.cfm

Riteve: Costa Rica Car Inspection 2010

2009-12-24T16:37:00.003-06:00

One of my least favorite things to do in Costa Rica is have our annual car inspection. Costa Rica subcontracts a Spanish company to do car inspections and the process is frustrating and complicated. Having a 25-year-old car with 200,000 plus miles certainly doesn’t help the situation.

Other Central American countries don’t have a daunting system like this and in New York State the inspections are done by mechanics who fix whatever problems they find so the process is seamless. Here, you pay ~$20 and if you don’t pass, you must go elsewhere to rectify the failures and then return to start the process again.

Our experience started out hectic. To prepare for inspection, our mechanic Wilbur in San Ramon had to adjust our carburetor to improve our emissions which made the car barely drive, a maximum of 10-15 mph uphill with lots of backfiring. Driving to Riteve was a challenge. Despite our repairs, we went through the Riteve obstacle course and failed. After explaining our predicament to the “Man,” he told me to drive around and find a mechanic and return within 2 hours. We found a strategically placed mechanic within a kilometer who tinkered a little with our 1985 Mitsubishi Montero and refused to take any money for his services. Amazingly, when we returned the employees at Riteve felt some sympathy and employed a lenient interpretation for us. The gods were looking out for us as we eventually passed after lots of smiling, pleading and connecting. We got our sticker and this stressful situation was somehow over. Honestly, I shed a few tears of relief as it took a lot out of me to make it work. My Spanish is mas o menos (more or less, mediocre) but in this culture, a heart to heart connection with someone goes a long way.

In order to register our car for 2010 we needed this inspection and at Dec 15, the clock was ticking. In New York State, registrations are cheap and similarly priced for cars whether they are new, old, cheap or expensive. In Costa Rica you pay your annual registration fee depending on the value of your car. Our fee was $88 while a new fancy car could cost over $1,000 a year just to register. In contrast, my house taxes in Costa Rica are only $40 a year vs. over $5000 in Ithaca, NY. It’s not a bad idea to tax to the max luxury cars while making it cheap for everyone to own a home with inexpensive property taxes, phone, electricity and water. What a concept!

From my least favorite task to the best of Costa Rica, a visit to the hot springs. Past years we went to Riteve in Alajuela and Puntarenas. This time we opted for Ciudad Quesada / San Carlos to combine it with an overnight at our favorite hot springs. I have been to Termales del Bosque in San Carlos between 15-20 times over the years and it remains the place I return to most often to recharge in the thermal waters and amazing natural setting. It is very different from Tabacon and Baldi which are more for tourists both price wise and lacking the awe-inspiring nature of Termales del Bosque. (See my blog from Nov.14, 2007 for more observations and photos of our favorite “quasi secret hot springs.”)

A highlight of this trip to the springs was meeting Danny, a 21-year-old Tico who recently started working at the front desk. He was graduating the next day from an intensive English class and said he didn’t get many opportunities to practice his English. He was cool, friendly and had overcome many obstacles to put his life in the positive place it was today.

We had a great 24 hours there with de-stressing soaks in the afternoon and following morning. The rooms are nice and after sitting in the hot springs, driving home the same day ruins the buzz of being totally relaxed. Our package included breakfast, dinner, room and 2 days in the hot springs.

Life is a roller coaster of highs and lows. The insanity of getting our car inspected followed by the ecstasy of sitting in the hot springs was a wild 2-day ride. Keeping balanced and centered through the ups and downs is a process and challenge. Living in another culture keeps life alive with a full spectrum of experiences and emotions.

Sunday ... At The End Of The World

2009-12-11T12:04:00.016-06:00

When we moved from urban San Ramon to La Paz 2 years ago, we were the first and only foreigners in this country oasis. The phone line still ends just past our house and the last mile is on a primitive stone road. About 2 miles past our house the river crosses the road and you need a horse to enter the preserve that stretches all the way to Monteverde and Arenal. In many ways this is the end of the world ... just 20 minutes from San Ramon but as pure and natural as it gets.

In the time we've been here, a couple of folks have bought land past our house and built beautiful houses. It's nice having great new neighbors who also speak English and can be there for each other on this wild journey.

I used to have to go to San Ramon when I wanted more socializing and action. This past Sunday I went to 3 parties walking distance from my house. I never would have imagined this day a year ago.

I started out at an 11AM birthday party for Marielos, our wonderful Tico neighbor whose family has made our time here as smooth as can be. She made homemade corn tortillas and vegetable picadillo for a hearty topping. I didn't stay for the birthday cake as my tradition that grounds me in Costa Rica is watching the NFL on Sundays.

Off to Jeff and Jane's, a couple from Big Sur, California who have built a lovely modern home about a mile past our house. I love the locals but just having someone nearby who is from my culture makes a big difference. We had cocktails and watched some football.

The party shifted to Janet's, a brave 60 something who is La Paz's newest resident. Her land adjoins the preserve and is wild and "out there." My number one sidekick for my 8 years here Jimmy Lee joined us along with my partner Janet. Here we were at "the end of the world" watching the NY Giants (Los Gigantes) beat the Cowboys on satellite, enjoying snacks and drinks. Surreal to say the least!

No matter how native and natural a life we live here in Costa Rica, having a few friends nearby who speak English and have a similar cultural context is nice.

After 3 parties on Sunday we went back to our tranquilo life of sitting on our porch and watching the world go by ... very slowly.

More Cheap Airfares To Costa Rica

2009-11-19T13:46:00.008-06:00

In my lifestyle, airfare between the USA and Costa Rica is a recurring expense. I try to monitor and keep on top of the rapidly changing pricing that is hard to predict.

I just bought a ticket for $186 RT between NYC and San Jose/Alajuela (SJO). In almost a decade of doing this trip, this is the cheapest I have seen. I bought our tickets and wanted to alert all of you to the possibilities. I get regular updates from Travelocity which allows me to check numerous individual airline fares at one site. Some people prefer Expedia, Kayak and others.

It's gonna be cold, dark and snowing soon and having a $186 RT ticket is a great security blanket.

Here is the Travelocity link:
(www.travelocity.com)

Micro-Giving in Costa Rica

2009-10-14T11:47:00.025-06:00

While it's nice to donate to charitable organizations, it's always seemed impersonal and hard to see specifically how I was helping. Also, many organizations use up a lot of their funds on administrative expenses, real estate, staff etc. There are many wonderful organizations who do great work, but I'm enjoying being able to help people directly in La Paz and San Ramon.

Janet and I bought 2 used Apple laptop computers before our last trip to La Paz. Our plan was to donate one to the La Paz school to supplement the one old desktop computer that serves the whole school. The other was a gift to our neighbors, the Arias family who have never owned a computer or been on the internet.

Our neighbors love living in their pristine country setting. They have welcomed us as a filtered source of the bigger world outside. They don't travel, but we bring some exotica into their lives. Yet, they know that learning the internet and English are 2 things that will increase the options in the world ahead for their children.

It was comical going into San Ramon with Mariellas and Carlos (9) to use the WiFi at Cafe Delicias. They now have a Gmail account and access to all the information the internet has to offer. I don't think I have to worry about them becoming addicts like folks I have known, but they now have a good tool for connecting with people far away and learning whatever they are curious about.

We gave the other computer to the La Paz school and received a sincere heartfelt thanks and warm welcome. The principal, teachers and students all shared how surprised and appreciative they were of our donation. Cool stuff.

I'm hoping to volunteer to teach English at the La Paz school in the near future. Since many of the English teachers have never lived in an English speaking country, often their pronunciation or knowledge of common ways of speaking, idioms, expressions, slang etc. is limited.

It's great to donate money to charitable organizations who really help their target groups. For me, it's been nice to be able to give directly to my neighbors things of $$$ value and also share my experience. I have learned so much from them about how to successfully live in San Ramon. Life is good when there is balance.

I'm Back... Wow!

2009-10-01T13:27:00.017-06:00

I haven't written for a few months as life got hectic and challenging. After some time in the USA sorting it out, we returned to Costa Rica last night. This is the longest I had been away from Costa Rica in 8 years. As we drove from San Ramon to our little paradise in La Paz, life just became simpler and innocent, or as the locals say "muy tranquilo."

For me, the key to a good and successful life in Costa Rica is good neighbors. While we were away, the Arias family took care of our land and house so well... it made me teary eyed and oh so welcomed. As we drove up to our house, we saw the beckoning lights. Our house was clean and the kitchen was stocked with organic fruits and vegetables from our land.

After a long day (17 hours) of travel and months of stress, sleeping in this serenity is healing on so many levels. We awoke to clear blue skies and awesome mountain views. The birds sang at sunrise and the sounds of the river combined into a symphony for awakening.

As a bookend to one of the most difficult parts of my life, I feel very blessed at the moment. Life is an unfolding mystery that keeps changing. Time for a nap to soak it all in ... beyond words.

World Economic Crisis and San Ramon, Costa Rica

2009-04-06T17:39:00.013-06:00

It is shocking how the world economy has changed from a year ago. Many people who felt flush with the equity in their houses, value of their stocks and secure jobs are now feeling much poorer as they look ahead. Living in the United States and other developed countries is expensive. It is a time when many are considering other options.

I feel lucky to have found San Ramon. San Ramon feels easier for me as the cost of living is relatively low, life is slower and people just seem to smile more. My property taxes are about $25 a year, electric bill $7 a month and the cost of purchasing my home very affordable. Food is local, fresh and alive with amazing fruits, vegetables and more. Going to restaurants and bars is a regular event and keeps me connected with friends and neighbors.

The financial crisis has opened people to new possibilities for the future. There are many places to explore. I've learned a lot in San Ramon about what is important. Living a happy, healthy life doesn't require big money. This has new importance in these financially challenging times.

Family Time in La Fortuna and Surfing at Playa Samara

2009-03-16T08:38:00.033-06:00

This is Janet’s turn to blog:

In February, my teenage daughters spent two weeks with us exploring our world in La Paz and meeting our friends here. It was a special treat for me to share my Costa Rica life with them. We interspersed their trip with visits to some of our Costa Rica highlights: a day at the hot springs, a visit to La Fortuna, and surf time at Playa Samara.

It was wonderful seeing Madeleine and Lydia exploring La Paz with the local children, going for unexpectedly long likes, swimming in the river and sharing their slack line. We are amazed at how in two weeks they became comfortable in the language and culture of Costa Rica.

The girls came to Costa Rica determined to ride on a zipline. Our good friend Graciela made reservations for us at her family's famous Sky Tram and Sky Trek in La Fortuna (www.skywalk.co.cr) in the shadow of Volcano Arenal. On the drive up to Sky Trek, we pulled off to take photos of the panoramic view of Lake Arenal. When we returned to the car, it wouldn’t start. This inconvenience became an opportunity for the girls to experience one of the true highlights of Costa Rica….the warmth and generosity of its people. We walked the final two hundred meters to the reception desk where the Sky Trek staff went out of their way to help us. While the girls rode the zip lines together, Sky Trek’s maintenance person did what we could to ascertain what was wrong with the car and help get it going. A local hotel owner at Sky Trek with her guests over heard my plight and stepped in to help. She offered us a ride back to La Fortuna with her guests and a room for the night at her comfortable Hotel Vista del Cerro (www.hotelvistadelcerro.com). By evening, her husband had helped tow our car back to the hotel, the hotel cook had given the car a once over by flashlight in the hotel parking lot and had pinpointed the problem before calling a local mechanic who came at night with his family to repair the car’s electric system. We left the next morning with a working automobile and many new friends.

Our days at Playa Samara were equally magical. The girls spent two days playing in the surf with our used surfboard. After many failed attempts to stand, the surf teachers at Surf Samara came to their rescue offering the use of a long, stable board for the day and some surf pointers (www.samarabeach.com). The girls got up on the next try and were surfing like experts by the time we left the beach for home.

The final night was spent back in La Paz with our neighbors. We shared a feast. The Arias family contributed a chicken, rice dish and a tres leche that the girls helped make. We brought a salad and pasta with fresh vegetables for the most part from our shared garden. The evening ended with all the children piled on the beds giggling and playing. We will treasure this time together and everyone here will look forward to the chicatitasnext trip.

Making Cheese Empanadas With The Neighbors

2009-02-11T12:20:00.018-06:00

Being a former restaurant owner and foodie, I love learning about local foods. Costa Rica is blessed with some of the best fruits, vegetables, fish etc. in the world but local cuisine is sometimes lacking creativity and strong flavors.

Since moving to the country, my neighbor Mariellas has been inspirational in teaching me some local favorites. We just planted an organic vegetable garden that both our households will share and we also have plenty or oranges, limons and bananas on our land.

On a lazy Sunday, our neighbors invited us over to make cheese empanadas. Their family has cows and makes the local cheese which is a fresh cheese that looks like a cross between tofu and feta. Often the corn comes from our garden. A couple of weeks before, Mariellas taught me to make fresh corn tortillas. Together we husked our corn, then Hormidas and I took turns grinding it with a hand grinder. The tortillas were like none I had ever tasted before.

We made the dough with cornmeal, salt, grated cheese and a little water. They showed me how to use the tortilla press to make the shell which then got stuffed with more cheese. After a few minutes I was on my own making the empanadas and then frying them. I made about 20 that Janet and I shared with Hormidas, Mariellas and their 3 children. The tortilla press got demystified today and I'm ready to add it to my kitchen tools. I'm excited to start making simple corn tortillas and also to fill the empanadas with vegetables for variety.
I thought a city kid like me might feel isolated in the country, but I'm finding the opposite is true. My neighbors all stop by and chat and the kids have found me a definite curiousity. I'm looking forward to learning some new local dishes and more importantly to share the meals with my wonderful neighbors, the Arias family of La Paz.

Costa Rica 6.2 Earthquake ... January 8, 2009

2009-01-20T12:52:00.021-06:00

Last Thursday Costa Rica had a major earthquake. The current information is 23 are dead, 11 are missing and 2,300 people have been left homeless. The epicenter was near Poas Volcano just a few hours from my home in San Ramon. President Arias declared some areas uninhabitable in the future. There were photos of people walking away with just a garbage bag filled with a few possessions with all else lost. The planet seems to be reacting strongly with extreme weather all over the world and natural disasters on a regular basis.

Fortunately, there was no damage or impact to the people, property and landscape of San Ramon and La Paz. Janet and I were out for a walk during the earthquake/terremoto and didn’t feel a thing. Others in our community felt the tremors, but fortunately little else. We were with our friend and neighbor Falo, showing us a property he wanted us to help him sell. A joyful afternoon of discovery followed while less than 50 miles away chaos ruled.

One thing I learn over and over again is trying to make plans in Costa Rica rarely works and is often frustrating. But lots of cool experiences occur when just taking a walk and being open. As we walked with Falo, he brought us to see the Trapiches in La Paz. Much of the Central Valley is planted with coffee but La Paz seems to be mostly sugar cane/cana. Our neighbors fill up their carts with harvested cane and with their oxen bring it to one of two local Trapiches. (Life and work here sweetly resembles that of 50 or more years ago.)

At the Trapiche the cane is pressed for the pure sweet liquid, then boiled and finally formed into cones of brown solid sweetness, tapa. Agua dulce is a traditional drink made by combining boiled water or milk with the dulce/sweet. At the Trapiche they also make candy that is mixed with yerba buena/mint. It was fun meeting more of my new neighbors and learning about what happens to all the sugar cane that grows here.

We walked home on a stone road thinking our day was winding down and in the middle of absolutely nowhere we discovered Panaderia La Paz. Like wanderers in the desert finding an oasis, we were greeted by 5 women baking and an assortment of sweet and savory breads just out of the oven. They offered us stools and we proceeded to sample their treats. We learned that they bake on Mondays and Thursdays and then package their goods and distribute them at pulperias/corner stores in the area. We now walk by on their baking days, hang out awhile and bring home a few bags of pastries and breads.

I thought I might get bored moving to the country after 8 years living in the center of San Ramon. I find with each day I’m enjoying my new life and connecting with my neighbors in La Paz, 20-30 minutes outside San Ramon. I’m learning a lot about simplicity, community, nature and a joy that doesn’t require a lot of money, things or complex thought patterns.

Trout Farm Restaurants in La Paz, San Ramon Costa Rica

2009-01-09T06:16:00.004-06:00

Rincon Poeta in San Ramon was my local hangout while I lived in the barrio these past 8 years. Many thanks to the owner Alonso, Sergio, Jason, Gigi, etc. for great service and to Carla and the chicas in the kitchen for great food. Out in La Paz (20 minutes into the country outside San Ramon), the 3 trout farm restaurants are becoming my new regular spots.

A cool Costa Rica tradition is trout farms that double as bars and restaurants. Fresh fish is one thing, but eating a fish that was alive just minutes before eating it is another realm.

Mi Tata is the closest to Bajo La Paz center. Located down a dirt road, it has a down home local feeling with it’s open air wooden structure overlooking two trout ponds. When we entered, Johnny Cash was playing followed by “Born to be Wild” and other popular American music…. Kind of surreal. The owner and waitress, who we met on earlier visits, warmly greeted us.

Janet and I started our meal with a few shots of Guaro (Costa Rican sugar cane liquor) and a beer. The Guaro set us back C600/$1.15 a shot and the bottle of Pilsen a mere C800/$1.50. A 1lb. whole Trout dinner with yucca and banana cerviche was delicious, fresh and very satisfying ($5.00). In the USA, people pay big bucks for a fresh fish dinner. In these tough economic times, it’s a real treat to live so well for so little $$$$ and lots of welcoming spirit.

Nearby is Rancho Carrucha which seems to be more family oriented. The first time we were here, it was a busy Sunday and quite the scene. Local families bring their kids for a pleasant day of catching and eating fish, playing pool, a cool time just a short ride from San Ramon.

CentroEcotouristica, the most exotic of the 3 settings, is at the end of the road in Bajo La Paz. After a couple of miles on a stone road you arrive at the edge of a reserve that stretches all the way to Monteverde. A hand painted sign reads, “Mundo Sin Explorer,” loosely translated as, “The World Not Explored.” This is the end of the road for cars and becomes bird, plant and animal paradise beyond this establishment. The air is clean and fresh and the river is perfect for a swim.

The meals are pretty similar at all 3 places. Explore and decide which spot feels best to you.

As I was paying my bill at Mi Tata and walking to my car, “Girls Just Wanna Have Fun” by Cindy Lauper was blasting from the speakers. Great meal, fun scene … and many adventures ahead.

Living in the Barrio

2008-12-20T14:39:00.000-06:00

While many foreigners who came to San Ramon bought lots in ex-pat communities or land in the country, I bought a house in the barrio. Rather than be apart from the culture, I wanted to live in the center of the life that defines San Ramon, Costa Rica. I grew up in Brooklyn, NY and have lived in urban settings most of my life. What seems scary or strange to some has been a wealth of authentic experiences for me.

I’m a 10-minute walk from the central park and the heart of downtown. While many foreigners fantasize about 5 acres separate from others, I had a different plan. By being connected to my neighbors and the flow of life here, I have been changed in ways both profound and simple.

I bought my house in the barrio 3 years ago after renting downtown, near the university for the previous 4 years. How else to learn about my new hometown and become part of it, if I don’t walk the streets and become the newest Ramonense (San Ramon person)?

I was the first foreigner on my street and when I moved in I was quite the curiosity. I felt a bit like an exotic animal at the zoo as my neighbors were happy to have me but perplexed that this guy from the USA bought a house on their block.

Life starts early in Costa Rica. When the sun comes up at 6AM, life begins. Unlike many urban settings, this barrio has the most amazing bird sounds you can imagine. The birds morning songs are followed by kids getting ready for school and family life beginning. A little upbeat Spanish music, the dogs starting their day and then the flow of my neighbors walking down the hill … parents with their kids in their school uniforms, adults heading to work … lots of bicycles, a few cars and motorcycles, but mostly people walking. (It still amazes me how the sexy local women walk in stiletto heels without falling or twisting an ankle. It must be genetic.) There is none of the angst and frenetic pace of North American cities.

Now, 3 years later, I am integrated and known by all. I have always been safe and protected as my neighbors have a sense that their property values will rise by me successfully owning a house on their hill. Most of my neighbors have renovated and upgraded their homes during my time here. Of all my neighbors, I am most grateful to Rosario Vargas who takes care of my house; cleaning and making sure that when I am out of the country my house is looking good, clean and safe.

While the natural world around San Ramon rivals anyplace in the world, it is connecting with my neighbors and friends that has allowed me to discover the true meaning of Pura Vida.

Ithaca, NY Winter = San Ramon, CR Summer

2008-12-07T11:54:00.011-06:00

I just finished my annual Thanksgiving in the USA. Nice to see family and friends and remember to be grateful for all that I have. The only bummer is the dark, cold winter weather and lack of people on the streets. After 8 years in Costa Rica, my body just doesn't like the winter in Upstate New York.

December starts the summer in Costa Rica. San Ramon temperature remains a comfortable mid-70's year round but summer means the rain has stopped for the months ahead. After months of rain, everything is green and colorful in December. With no daylight savings time, the steady temps are complemented by 12 hours each of daylight and darkness. Easy on the body and spirit.

After a hectic visit to New York State, I'm very ready for the slow, friendly, uncomplicated life I have in Costa Rica. As a former restaurant owner and chef, I look forward to expressing my creativity with the fresh organic fruits and vegetables from my new garden in La Paz.

During the unfolding world economic downturn, San Ramon seems like a good place to be. The last few years have been boom times for foreign travelers and investors in Costa Rica. Unlike the over development at the beach, San Ramon has maintained its own character and economy for over 100 years. I think this will be an interesting time for people everywhere as they re-evaluate their life, plans, and future. Affordable, peaceful, friendly, sunny San Ramon seems like a good life in these uncertain times.

Tomorrow I leave winter and arrive in Costa Rica for the beginning of summer.

The New Economy and San Ramon, Costa Rica

2008-11-08T11:24:00.027-06:00

A new era is beginning. This weeks' United States Presidential election reflected the reality of our challenges, followed by outrage after 8 years of wasted opportunity and finally hope. The folly of living on credit has been exposed. Billions of dollars of personal wealth throughout the world has vaporized over the last few months. Falling real estate values, stocks, retirement accounts, job loss etc. have caused many people to have less.

The houses and property I have bought in San Ramon, Costa Rica have been the best investments I have ever made. The lifestyle they reflect seemed modest compared to the over-the-top lifestyle sought out by many. They now seem smart, healthy and secure. It's hard going against the grain, but at times you must follow your intuition and take the road less traveled.

As we get ready to move into our new house in La Paz, I more fully appreciate my life which is not based on materialism gone wild. I'm thrilled to have no mortgage, $20 a year in taxes and $5 a month phone and electric bills. With no need for heat or air conditioning I'm feeling like I have a small footprint. Behind our house we have an organic vegetable garden as well as bananas, plantanos, avocados, oranges and lemons. My neighbors don't have flat screen TV's, their kids entertain themselves in simple ways, and people's smiles reflect a slower, low stress lifestyle.

Costa Rica, with no military, health care for all and college that is affordable is a country that keeps the poor and middle class secure, healthy and educated. Happiness and balance seem elusive in a hard charging world, but I have learned a lot about life from my San Ramon friends and neighbors. Pura Vida is more than a national motto and I continue to internalize a lifestyle that takes the best from many worlds.

Check out my website www.costaricapm.com for more about San Ramon. It's time to think outside the box since the box has not shown itself to be as strong as promised.

After enjoying Thanksgiving with my family in New York State, I'm looking forward to my next chapter in San Ramon, Costa Rica. One of the cool things is that life in Costa Rica often unfolds differently than planned which keeps you flexible and open ... important qualities in the new world.

My Friend Inez Turns 100

2008-10-08T14:40:00.000-06:00

I wrote a blog a year ago (3 August 2007) about my friend Inez who was 99 years old and amazing. Janet and I went to see her last week. She is now 100. On her birthday, a national newspaper wrote a story about her and the remarkable life she has led.

Inez remembers everything we spoke about months ago including details. Many people half her age wish they had her memory and positive outlook on life.

When we hug, she holds on tight and let’s me know how happy she is to see me. Knowing Inez is an honor.

Living Pura Vida in Costa Rica can help one have a long lifespan. People don’t over think things, are surrounded by family, eat fresh local food and more…..

I’m a lucky guy to be living in San Ramon, Costa Rica for over 7 years and have a friend like Inez to remind me what is important.

Container Homes in Costa Rica

2008-09-24T14:38:00.015-06:00

With the mortgage crisis in the USA, the collapse of Bear Stearns and Lehman Brothers, and a runaway consumer culture…. It is time once again to appreciate that “small is beautiful,” simplicity is a virtue, and living within or below one’s means helps keep life peaceful.

Costa Ricans tend to live in much smaller spaces with many generations together. You don't see baby sitters for kids or senior living for old folks, mostly just families sticking together and taking care of each other. Being alone for long periods of time or living alone is not the ideal.

Last month, The New York Times published an article about small homes gaining popularity in the USA. ("The Next Little Thing")The age of the McMansion requires a lot of $$$$ for heat or air conditioning, maintenance, taxes, mortgage etc. They interviewed some people who had achieved this American Dream and now have simpler aspirations. One of the consequences of having a large home is the isolation in a family as people spend a lot of time in their own spaces with their high tech toys.

My friend Jimmy has an interesting new project that addresses the “small is beautiful” concept. He has taken shipping containers, recycled them and retrofitted the inside as a beautiful, functional home with all the necessary amenities. Jimmy’s container homes have a practical aspect in Costa Rica where many foreigners buy land without homes. It often takes a long time before building and of course you need a place to live before and during construction. Also, there is a lot to learn about your land in a foreign country before you build that can avoid big expensive mistakes later.

Jimmy was my first ex-pat friend in San Ramon and really helped me. When I didn’t speak a word of Spanish and didn’t know the lay of the land, his friendship meant a lot to this stranger in a strange land. We went every weekend to different beaches and he opened his home to me as a place to hang out. We have both seen lots of foreigners come with big dreams yet return to their country of origin when things became tough. We have helped each other over and over to find the humor in situations that could make one crazy and frustrated. Sometimes we let each other rant and rave and sometimes we party until we forget what got us stressed.

To learn more about Jimmy’s container homes look at the property page on our website. (www.costaricapm.com)

Costa Rica Independence Day - September 15

2008-09-15T18:02:00.011-06:00

Today is Costa Rica Independence Day, a festive colorful celebration. San Ramon is rocking with parades, costumes, music and general festivities. On this day in 1821 Costa Rica declared it’s independence from Spain. It is a treat to live in a country that has used it’s independence to create a vibrant democracy with no military, national health care, and education for all. It is neither dominated by a super power nor dominating events in other parts of the world. Pura Vida!

The annual celebration began on Sunday night with a children’s parade. The kids dress up in adorable traditional dress and carry homemade candle lanterns throughout the town. This replicates the scene in 1821 of people walking with lanterns from the Central American capitol in Guatemala to spread the word to Costa Rica and beyond of the declared independence from Spain.

On Monday, there is a larger parade presented by the students to amplify the celebration. The whole town is in the streets which is a beautiful multigenerational scene. I’m sure the nighttime celebration will include lots of drinking, dancing, flirting and more. Ticos know how to party.

Costa Rica has always felt like a country with a lot of personal freedom compared to the USA. Policemen are my friends here whereas they seem more aggressive in the USA. The simple act of drinking a beer in the streets is totally natural here, but would get me arrested in my place of birth. As long as you’re not violent, pretty much anything goes here in terms of personal expression.

I feel very lucky to live in San Ramon, Costa Rica. After 8 years of Bush, it’s hard not to question the direction of the US government both at home and around the world. To go from being dominated to dominating others seems like a weird way to use power.

I wish everyone in the world felt the level of freedom ringing out in Costa Rica today.

My New Home in La Paz

2008-08-18T11:07:00.025-06:00

We just bought our 5th property in San Ramon, Costa Rica. Fortunately, we've sold a few of our properties recently to keep life manageable. We were going to list this property for sale for an 80 year old lady and her son, but one thing led to another and we ended up buying it.

Although it is only 20 minutes from San Ramon center life there feels at least 50 years in the past. Our neighbor uses oxen and a cart to transport his sugar cane harvest and there are more horses, birds, and animals than cars. Our neighbors are mostly from one family and 3 generations have welcomed us warmly.

For us, La Paz is a perfect complement to our home in the city. There is something about the air and vibe that is magical. It is the beginning of the rain forest without the tourists, buses and activity. Some Costa Ricans in the know have quintas/weekend houses there.

Our house has 2 floors, 2 bedrooms and 2 baths which should be good for entertaining and having friends visit. There are avocados, oranges, bananas, plantanos, limons and squash. We will work together with our nearest neighbor Hormidas Arias to recreate an organic garden so that we can grow all our vegetables on our land. As food gets expensive and travels thousands of miles for many, eating all our fruit and vegetables organic from our garden will be healthy and satisfying.

I really did not want to buy another house, but some places are so special. La Paz is one of those special settings that rivals any place I've ever been. As a guy born in NYC, my 8 year journey in San Ramon, Costa Rica continues to amaze me with twists and turns I never expected.

Cost of Living

2008-07-05T16:07:00.014-06:00

I’m heading back to San Ramon tomorrow, July 4th after spending some time in my other home, Ithaca, NY. I’m in NYC at the moment, the ultimate contrast to San Ramon.

When I was growing up in the 1960’s, the United States and NYC was the land of opportunity for working and middle class people. Now the rich are richer and life is challenging for most. Watching the news leaves you with a bleak scenario for the American Dream moving forward.

During this time in the USA, it felt like a scary time economically. The stock market is tanking, gas hit $4+ a gallon, real estate and the banks that made real estate loans seem shaky. Health care is unaffordable and a college education costs 10 times what it did for me in the early ‘70’s.

I feel so lucky to have my life in San Ramon, Costa Rica for many reasons. As energy costs explode, I don’t use heating or air conditioning here and my monthly utility bill is in the $5 range. Virtually all the food I eat is local, excellent quality and either affordable or free. I just read in the NY Times about a restaurant selling a $100 hamburger and $12 for a cocktail is common in NYC. In San Ramon, for $2 I can get a boca of shrimp, fish or whatever. For $5-6, I eat and drink all that I desire.

Recently in San Ramon, I got a flat tire. Richard had it fixed and back on in less than 20 minutes and asked for $2. In my 8 years here, I have developed some strong relationships. I employ people to take care of my property, contractors etc. My staff said I treat them better than others. The $2 an hour they ask for, always includes a heartfelt thank you on my part and theirs. Amazingly, they all own their homes and while homes in the US are going down in value, their homes in San Ramon continue to appreciate significantly. Real estate taxes are negligible and most people own their homes outright with no mortgages. My $5,000 a year real estate taxes in Ithaca are getting harder to afford and services are dwindling. This all contributes to a life in San Ramon that is relatively non-stressful from a financial standpoint for both locals and ex-pats.

One of the things I’m really looking forward to is not driving. Between the cost of gas and the stress on the roads, it will be a pleasure to give up my car for awhile. In San Ramon, walking is social and good exercise. People ride their bikes to and from work. There are buses to every country town near San Ramon for 20-50 cents. An hour ride on the express bus to either San Jose or Puntarenas (nearest Pacific beach) costs about $1.75. Public transportation isn’t as viable an option or affordable an option in many parts of the United States.

So, for me, the American Dream of the past has now transformed to the Pura Vida Costa Rica Dream of the present. With no military and a friendly lifestyle, I am happy to be enjoying the present and not struggling with a dream that is harder to achieve.

Manana, I return to Costa Rica where I’m sure the stress of surviving in the fast expensive US lifestyle will ease as I re-enter my gentler, easier San Ramon way of life.

Renato

2008-05-29T13:00:00.001-06:00

Most people visiting Costa Rica marvel at it's great surfing beaches, volcanos, rainforests, nature etc. Yet, there is another level of beauty. While many people in the USA, or "developed world," are not satisfied though they have SO much; many Ticos exhude a gratefulness for all they have, even those with limited resources. One feels it in the daily life on the streets of San Ramon. People just smile more in San Ramon and move slower through their lives.

Renato is a great San Ramon character. He's an older guy who feels content with less than most people. He says easily, " if I have rice and beans, a pack of smokes, C1000/$2 in my pocket, a tin roof over my head and a water spigot ... I'm happy. " Life can be simpler to enjoy with less possessions to manage.

Renato is scared of doctors and avoids visits if possible. While waiting in the San Ramon hospital in a 1st floor exam room for the doctor to come in, he climbed out the window before the exam claiming he felt much better.

This month's AARP Magazine had an article on lifestyle and longevity. It featured a number of Costa Rican centenarians living healthy to 100.AARP Magazine - Living Healthy to 100

The national expression "Pura Vida" has many definitions. Having a joyful, light Tico lifestyle is one part of it.

I learn a lot about life from many different people and experiences here in San Ramon.

Bajo Caliente - San Juan de San Ramon - Recreation

2008-04-27T07:11:00.008-06:00

One of my favorite places to spend some leisure time in San Ramon is Bajo Caliente. Locals come for many different reasons and the variety of things to do, make it special.

There is a nice swimming pool with a mesh roof for an indoor/outdoor feeling. Weekends and school vacations are busy times. I often go on weekday mornings and it feels like my own private club. There are swimming classes for children and hydro-spinning exercise classes. For people watching and socializing, the grassy hill outside the pool is filled with sexy beautiful people, catching some rays and checking each other out.

Bajo Caliente also has a soccer field. Local teams and friends rent the field for weekly games. Their friends and family cheer them on and make a nice scene.

The bar / restaurant is one of the largest in San Ramon. It is covered but open air with people of all ages. They serve bocas, small plates of food for about C1000/$2. Their wood fired roast chicken is one of the specialties along with cerviche, shrimp, fish and more.

The owner, Luis and his sons make this a family run business. Luis spent a few years in the USA working in Orlando and the Hamptons. Like many Costa Rican’s, he worked hard in the USA, saving most of his dollars to create a business in Costa Rica. While you hear so much about immigrants in the USA, Costa Ricans have a different take. The lifestyle in the USA is too fast, expensive and cold for most Ticos. They prefer to take their money home and lead a Pura Vida lifestyle with some capital for a house or business.

Bajo Caliente is a great part of my San Ramon lifestyle. It is located 5 minutes from the center of town in the community of San Juan.

ICE - Costa Rica Telephone and Electric Service

2008-04-17T17:35:00.004-06:00

In Costa Rica, the government has a monopoly for providing telephone and electric service. It has pros and cons and there is much debate on this changing in the future.

On the pro end, it is very affordable for everyone to have the basic services. My monthly bills are about $6 a month each for telephone and electric in my home. In the USA, my minimum can be 10 times this amount. This is a great thing to have inexpensive access for all. Universal access can also be seen in health care and higher education which is clearly not the case in the USA

The other side of government monopoly is it might take a month or even years to get phone service in some areas. The ongoing experience at an ICE office are long lines and not always the best customer service. High speed internet is rolling out very slowly in much of Costa Rica. Also, international calls are much more expensive from Costa Rica than from the USA. Thank God for Skype as a free or very cheap alternative for global communication.

On March 20 of this year, there was an overhaul of the phone system. The standard seven-digit phone number was changed to eight. A 2 is now added at the beginning of seven-digit landlines and an 8 before seven-digit cell phone numbers. The area code for all of Costa Rica is still 506 and the country code is 011. This has caused much confusion and frustration over the past month. I wondered if this was a plot by printing companies since business cards, stationary and signs all needed the phone numbers corrected.

For me the inexpensive basic services are a great thing and allow me to live in Costa Rica very affordably. In addition, there is a lesson somewhere in the need for patience and not being able to get instant anything here. Living a simple basic life is the way to go in Costa Rica.