Living and Retiring in Ecuador

Sometimes There are No Words

2012-02-07T22:35:00.000-08:00

Mark left for San Francisco this week to be with his Dad. The decision has been made to bring him home with hospice. The doctors say it could be two days, two weeks or two months, but we're praying that Dad Pombo will be able to spend some quality time with his son in the days that remain.

I'm not sure why, but I'm already grieving. I got up this morning, ready to go to Spanish Class, got to the door and turned around and came home (and cried some more). I think it's always harder on the person left behind than the one that goes. There are so many fine details to attend to and thankfully Mark has two sisters and a brother to help fill in the missing pieces.

Oddly enough it all started when Dad was with his bowling team (he's 85) and fell, broke his hip and then a series of continuous medical conditions ensued, including: pneumonia (MRSA), kidney failure and three heart attacks. So much for bowling!

Mark's mom passed away at 70 years of age and it seems like yesterday, but it's been 15 years and now Dad. In so many ways I'm closer to my father-in-law than I am with my real dad. Dad Pombo made sure he sent me a birthday every year with the words "you're my favorite daughter-in-law" for the past 36 years. Even after Mom died he kept up the tradition of birthday cards to the kids, the grandkids and the great grandkids. He never missed a beat in that regard.

But I feel thankful that he lived the last 15 years doing the things he loved: traveling, spending time with family and keeping up with his bowling league! We have fond memories that will sustain us through these dark days. In the updated version of Living and Retiring in Cuenca: 101 Questions Answered I'm adding a section that will be useful for "such a time as this." As little as we like to talk about death, it's probably the only thing we can count on and we need to get the paperwork done (Advanced Care Directive). Whether you're here in Ecuador or in the States, you have to let your caregivers know how you want to live out your last days.

Most of us baby boomers are dealing with our parent's failing health and now is the time to talk and be proactive because we just never know. Our bout with Dad started with a bowling ball (something he loved to do), and ended with a life we will always remember.

Sometimes, there are no words for such a time as this!

Care Giving from a Distance

2012-01-29T18:16:00.000-08:00

Many of you have been through this, so you can relate to care giving from a distance. Mark's dad fractured his hip, had two heart attacks, and now has viral pneumonia (all within a month). Dad Pombo has been in and out of the hospital too many times to mention. And then on Saturday, while we were both teaching at CEDEI we received 15 messages, including one on Facebook that said, "Call HOME now!"

Unfortunately, since we had our cell phones off (a policy of the school), we didn't receive any of the messages until we got home in the afternoon. Mark's dad was rushed to the hospital with viral pneumonia and a blood pressure of 43/34. The family rallied, we checked out flights, and we were in panic mode. This has been going on for the last month; we sleep with one hand on our suitcase and the other on the phone.

Yesterday evening when Mark's sister called and said that Dad Pombo was stabilized we let out a sigh of relief. We actually took a five-hour nap before we went to bed! We were emotionally exhausted. Thankfully, we have siblings in the States who are there, but we're involved from a distance in the care giving. We knew this day was coming with both sets of parents, but it doesn't make it any easier when you're actually going through it.

As baby boomers, we're often caught in the sandwich generation -- taking care of our parents while still raising our own kids. Thankfully, our boys are in their 20's and 30's and are self-sufficient, so our main focus is on our parents right now.

If you're going through care giving from a distance and have some words of wisdom, I would love to hear from you.

Until next time...hasta luego!

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Italy!

2012-01-18T20:40:00.000-08:00

Today I had an overwhelming urge for Italy!

Blame it on Wikipedia being on strike, writer's block or just reminiscing, but I pulled out all of our pictures of Sicily and thought, What are we doing in Cuenca? We should be in Calitri, Italy!

It's not every day that I feel this way, but I have to tell you that today was one of those days! I think it was all the lesson planning I had to do for teaching (we're "conversing" about Italy), combined with my walk around the neighborhood where every new high rise has an Italian name: Capri, Amalfi and La Roma. Oh, and let's not forget the "Palermo" building, which just happens to be the capital of Sicily!

We've been here for 1-1/2 years and I still don't have an emotional connection with the language the way I did with Italian. I loved rolling my rrrrrr's and saying "gelato" with gusto. Italians just have this zest for life that's contagious, including all the hand motions that go with every word. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that I was pregnant (x2) with my babies in the land of pasta and pesto. I have no idea what it is, but I just don't get that same fuzzy feeling with español.

So tomorrow I'll show up for Spanish Class and pretend that none of this ever happened!

Until next time...~~Ciao!~~ I mean...hasta luego!

Condomania and the Home Front

2012-01-17T20:33:00.000-08:00

This weekend we met a delightful Ecuadorian couple who just returned to Cuenca after five years of being in the States. They said, "What happened? We hardly know our own city!"

I had to chuckle because I feel that way too sometimes. I think they were referring to the redondel which is the center of construction "paradise" right now and all the various condo complexes that keep sprouting up all over the city.

Redondel Construction

Most folks seem to think that all the new condos are due to the gringos in town. Not true. Most of the condos are occupied by Ecuadorians -- either returning from the States -- or living abroad and investing in their own country. One of the expats -- who recently moved into a new condo complex -- told me he's renting from an Ecuadorian couple and he pays $500 for a two bedroom two bath apartment. I think that's about the going rate these days. Renting a place unfurnished seems to be the way to go until supply and demand level out.

When I tell folks what we pay for rent, they gasp and say, "How did you find that?" Actually $185-$200 per month is what Ecuadorians normally pay. Although yesterday I was at the home of one of our Ecuadorian friends and she has a two-story penthouse and pays $250. It's a lovely place and has a great view of the city. The rental prices are definitely inflated and that's because more gringos are renting (than buying) and willing to pay more. Until the supply and demand ratios even out, I think you'll continue to see rental prices go up.

A couple of weeks ago, I talked with Michael Berger of Cuenca's Best Properties and he shared with me his thoughts and wrote a great article on the subject which I suggest you read if you're planning a move to Cuenca.

In the meantime, we're back to school as students of Spanish (Intermediate/Advanced Level) and we're both teaching this semester. Our condo is starting to look like a schoolroom with all our supplies, books and lesson plans floating around. This cycle I have the Advanced Conversational English Club and let me tell you...they keep me on my toes! I think our brain cells have quadrupled since we moved to Cuenca. If learning a new language helps to delay dementia, I think we just might have some protection in that regard.

While construction goes on in Cuenca, we have another form of "construction" happening in the States. Mark's dad fell and fractured his hip and then had a heart attack. He's now in the ICU and we've been care giving from a distance. Many nights we have fallen asleep with one hand on the phone and the other on our suitcase. Mark's dad is 85 years old and was living independently until he broke his hip. Mark's sisters are visiting him every day in the hospital and they keep in contact with us daily.

We know that many of you have been through this, but we're treading uncharted waters at this time. My parents are in their 80's, so we enjoy each day with them through e-mail, Skype or Magic Jack. The other day I talked to my dad for an hour! He said, "You kids did the right thing retiring in Cuenca because things sure are a mess here in the U.S." Bless his heart; I never thought I'd hear him say that.

With so many things changing on the home front and Cuenca emerging into a new city, it reminds me that few things ever remain the same. That's why they call it life!

Until next time...hasta luego!

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Mocha Mondays and Cost of Living Reflection

2012-01-10T14:33:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, Mocha and I took our weekly walk to El Centro and stopped at "El Cafetal de Loja" so I could rest and Mocha could sniff around. It's my absolute favorite place in Cuenca to have a "cafecito." The inner courtyard is peaceful and they treat you like royalty.

"Siga no mas!" said the owner (several times) until I reached the table with a single white rose frosted in pink.

After five minutes, my "Cafe Americano" was ready and served with a small pitcher of warm milk (total cost: $1.00).

It was sheer perfection!

Mocha sat by my feet and murmured, "Okay, I better make myself comfortable because I think we're going to be here for a while!"

Yep, Mocha can read my mind, so he laid down on the cobblestones and took a nap. Good thing because there was a conversation brewing at the next table that made my ears perk up. Evidently this guy from New York was taking a tour of the city with his guide.

The newcomer in town wanted to know the top three of everything in Cuenca: best places to eat, best bars in town, etc. Unfortunately, I only had one scrap of paper the size of a gum wrapper and my pen kept "sputtering." I did introduce myself and welcomed the new person to Cuenca, before I ran home as fast as I could so none of the information would spill out of my head!

Some of the stuff I already knew, but the gist of what the new guy in town had to say held my interest a little longer: "So you're telling me that I could probably live more cheaply in the States than in Cuenca?"

"Yes!" the guide said emphatically. "In some parts of the U.S. you probably could live on your pension, but you would miss all this beauty," he added with a smile.

Okay, now I'm going to share my side of the story "over coffee." Yes, it is true that you probably could live in the States (in some parts) more cheaply than Cuenca, but it all depends on your lifestyle.

We came to Cuenca for the medical as our medical insurance in the States would have eaten us alive with its $1,500 monthly premium and its $20,000 deductible (not to mention mortgage, cars, and the heating bill in Pennsylvania).

In Cuenca, although we live on less than most, we're still able to save approximately 20 percent of our income and we never feel deprived. In fact, this is the only time in our lives that we have two other sources of income that we use solely for savings and investment. Try to do that in the States?!? Although we came down here for the affordable health care, we ended up with a lot more in the way of quality of life.We live along the Tomebamba River, we walk everywhere and we don't need a snow shovel!

However, we do have a Plan B. What if we had to go back to the States, where would we live and how could we make it? I know it sounds impractical, but we picked Paso Robles, California (27 miles inland from San Luis Obispo). It's close enough to the ocean without the high cost of living in a coastal town. Not exactly Los Frailes, but it just might work.

We found a two bedroom, one bath apartment with a pool and all the amenities for $450 a month. It's on "El Camino" next to WalMart, Starbucks, and a large shopping center. No need for transportation because they have an excellent bus system and we can walk everywhere in town. By the way, they're emerging as the new Napa Valley with wineries galore. We figured out that we could probably live on the same amount or less and would even qualify for some health care programs (that's a really big "if" because California is bankrupt!).

Why California? Our entire family lives in either Northern or Southern California. Both of our parents are in their 80's and Mark's dad who is 85, just fell and fractured his hip. He will be in a long-term care facility as he recovers. But we've had "Plan B" in place for a while just in case something like this were to happen. In July 2012 we will be able to leave Ecuador for a period of 18 months as we will have passed the all important two-year mark in our cédula process. Don't worry, we're not going anywhere (yet), but at least we have a plan in place in case of an emergency!

Mocha Mondays are important: it gives me time to see Cuenca like a tourist, meet and greet new folks in town and reflect on our life. In August we will be vacationing in San Luis Obispo with our kids, so we'll be able to report back on our findings. And we'll get to show our kids where we spent our honeymoon (Cavalier Inn, Madonna Inn and Hearst Castle).

One thing that living in a foreign country gives you is a different perspective. You find out how simple life can be and that you don't need all that "stuff" that you thought was so important. I don't even use a cell phone anymore!

Until next time...hasta luego!

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El Dia de los Reyes and Kids!

2012-01-06T21:21:00.000-08:00

In Ecuador, January 6th is "El dia de los Reyes" (The Day of Kings), which commemorates the arrival of the Magi to confirm Jesus as the son of God. It's also a time of gift giving!

Today, we celebrated "epiphany" with TWO boxes arriving from the U.S., and one of those was from our kids in Cleveland with gifts more precious than gold!

When you live in a foreign country and celebrate Christmas without family, you learn to put your emotions on hold and say, "It's okay, we'll get through this!" But in reality, you're saying, "No, I want to be with my kids on Christmas Day!"

Last year, we flew home for the holidays and this year we stayed in Cuenca (our first Christmas in Ecuador). I'll be honest with you; it wasn't easy and I won't even pretend that it was (keep that in mind all of you wannabe "Expatorians."

Mark and I received a note from our security guard explaining that the "Three Wise Men" had left a gift at the post office. So this morning after we had breakfast at the Coffee Tree with some new folks in town, we headed to the post office.

And what to our wondering eyes should appear...a huge box from Cleveland, Ohio weighing well over ten pounds and costing $40 to send to Ecuador (sending packages to the land of enchantment isn't cheap!).

Mark strapped the package on his back, just like Santa Claus, and we took the #3 bus back home. All the while, I was trying to figure out a way to open it with my bare hands. Good thing I didn't try because it was sealed tighter than Fort Knox with duct tape surrounding it (even customs didn't try!).

When we got back to our apartment, the security guard handed us another package (Mark's web cam that he ordered through Club Correos).

We were thinking that we almost had the Three Kings beat! We just needed one more gift. Instead, as we ripped through the red and green tissue paper, we found TEN gifts (or more!). I stopped counting after a while because I was too overcome with tears.

In the midst of all my emotion, I realized I was still just a mom who missed her kids (terribly!). I hugged my Christmas stocking and let Mocha sniff at his treats before I snatched Mark's slippers and claimed them as my own!

While I dabbed away tears and ate Ferrero Rocher bon-bons, I re-read Jon and Kim's card with the red-button snowflake and thought, What great kids we raised and what a wonderful wife our son, Jon, married.

I knew one day we would have a daughter and today, the "THREE KINGS" reminded us of just how fortunate we truly are -- blessed beyond measure -- to be thought of in such a special way.

So tonight, we'll light a candle, plug in the Christmas tree lights (one more time) and bask in the warmness of our kids' love.

Until next time...hasta luego!

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Coffee Tree, Money and Books!

2012-01-03T12:10:00.000-08:00

One of our favorite places to eat is Coffee Tree (open 24 hours!). Today we enjoyed breakfast (desayuno continental): your choice of coffee, “jugo” (juice), four slices of whole wheat toast, and eggs (prepared the way you like it) for a total of $2.87. Here’s the kicker! If you order the juice alone it’s $2.50, so you might as well have breakfast on the "side"!

It’s a fun place to eat because we always see someone we know or meet someone new. Today we enjoyed both. A “venture capitalist” was talking with his colleagues and he mentioned he never invests in real estate, stocks, bonds, silver or gold. Mark and I looked at each other in amazement and blurted out, “What else is there?”

“International currencies!”

Mark and I decided we would stick with what we know and let the professionals do what they do best. Anyway, it was an interesting breakfast conversation.

For now, Mark will continue to teach and I’ll keep writing. It’s time to update the book, Living and Retiring in Cuenca: 101 Questions Answered. I’m working on the second edition which will be out in April 2012 with a lot of updates and new information.What started out as a helpful guide to newcomers has ended up being a great way to meet new folks when they come into town. This is one of those weeks and we’re excited for the opportunity to share our journey with others (in person).

Anyone who is a writer knows that we write because it feeds our soul, not our pocketbook, but I have to say that this little Kindle book has shocked me. When you consider that the average U.S. book sells less than 250 copies per year and less than 3,000 copies over its lifetime, it’s definitely a cause for celebration when a book sells more than 5,000 copies (only 25,000 books have sold more than that). And, of course, there are always books that sell beyond anyone’s expectations: Stephanie Meyer’s Twilight series is one of them!

This week Living and Retiring in Cuenca surprised me with 1,500 copies being sold since it was published in April 2011. Certainly not a best seller, but it wasn’t intended for that purpose. So this is a personal thank you to all who have purchased it and recommended it to others. As I update the 2012 version, I’m including a list of new businesses and resources. So if you have a business in Cuenca, just drop me an e-mail through my "contact button."

Today I realized that it’s time to make our list for the States when we return in August. If I had to do it over again, I would have definitely packed more Totes umbrellas, rain gear (especially rain boots in sassy styles and colors), raincoats and less summer stuff. And that Nike jogging suit in black and hot pink that I left behind, I’m still regretting it. Oh, and I would have brought a gallon of Clinique Moisture Surge with me! A note about umbrellas: you need some just for the sun (in pastels preferably) and sturdy ones for the rain--the kind that don't fold up on you in the wind.

As far as gadgets, I would have definitely packed the rechargeable batteries and a battery recharger (what was I thinking?). And computers...I would definitely rethink my decision to bring my Dell laptop in pearlized pink. Dell parts are difficult to find in Ecuador, so you may want to rethink your computer choices. Apple, Mac, Toshiba, HP or Vaio are available here and so are the parts. Personally, I think pink is better suited for flowers than computers anyway. But thanks to Amazon and Club Correo, I’m still in business!

If you need to find a new route to the Coffee Tree, the guides are out that include a revision of the bus routes until the "redondel" is completed (in about a year).

Until next time...see you at the Coffee Tree!

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Feliz Año Nuevo and the New Budget!

2012-01-01T09:00:00.000-08:00

Last night promised to be filled with fireworks and we weren't disappointed. Until 3:00 a.m., we watched the sky light up in every direction with "bombs bursting in air." The Hotel Oro Verde next door, put on the biggest and brightest display so we moved ourselves down into the parking lot to be right underneath a canopy of light.

This morning we woke up to yet another parade blaring the music "Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer" and more fireworks. Ecuador sure knows how to throw a party! Oh, and last night we saw some dummies being burned with a vengeance! We celebrated by going out to dinner with friends, walked to "el centro" where everything was closed except for a few burning dummies, and walked all the way back home because no taxis could be found.

This morning, Mark faxed me an excel spreadsheet with our 2012 budget (it's the UPS management in him). I'm pleased to say that we're still keeping it simple--no changes. Except now we have three streams of continual income through Mark's teaching at CEDEI, online teaching, and my writing. We decided since we're living perfectly fine on our present income from last year, we're going to save and invest the rest.

The one thing we didn't think about when we moved to Ecuador was the cost of trips home (to the States), but we only do that once a year (August) and we plan ahead. We bought round-trip tickets to San Francisco going out of Guayaquil for $550 per person. We use Cheap Tickets exclusively and we've found that they do indeed have the cheapest tickets.

There's one thing I should add about working in Ecuador because a lot of folks ask us this question as well. If you do plan on teaching at one of the language schools and you have your residency (cédula), they will deduct Social Security and your medical (IESS). For us it has turned into a blessing: Mark will receive another pension check in ten years and we get free medical and language lessons. He also gets the month of August and December paid for without teaching. Although the check may look smaller (monthly), it ends up being about the same. Language lessons alone would cost us about $400 a month, so you can see it's a "win-win" situation. Although we do have a private medical insurance policy there is a $10,000 cap on each admission. In case of something catastrophic, we would just transfer over to the IESS hospital.

Having your residency can work for or against you if you decide to be employed in Ecuador, so it's something you may want to think through. You can get around it by having an intercultural visa like many of the English teachers have, but it comes with some pitfalls as well. Just remember: Not all that is gold...glitters!

We sleep really well at night: no debt, no credit cards, no car payments, no mortgage--just the simple life! We do feel like millionaires in that regard!

There you have it, the state of our financial affairs for 2012. An uncomplicated life -- doing what we love to do every day -- is just about as good as it gets.

Like my dad always told me, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

Have a Blessed New Year!

Pombo Family

Budget	$1,316.17

Rent & Aliquota	302.17
Food	284
Medical	86
Prescriptions	71
Etapa	30
Transportation	25
Life Insurance	125
Electicity	30
Water	8
Gas	8
Eating out	40
Misc	50
MD	50
Dog	8
Savings	200
Total:	$1,317.17

Book any flight on CheapTickets and get a coupon for 10% off hotels!

Out with the Old and In with the New!

2011-12-30T19:51:00.000-08:00

Ecuador has a unique way of celebrating the New Year!

Last week some interesting “dummies” started to appear on the street corners. I didn’t know what to make of it at first, but now I get it (sort of).

Mark and I were walking back from Supermaxi on Wednesday and I made the comment, “It looks like some folks are making good use out of old clothes!”

Not really!

In Ecuador, New Year’s Eve is celebrated with “años viejos” (old years) and in with the “Año Nuevo” (New Year). Ecuadorians take figurines (dummies) stuffed with paper, sawdust and sometimes firecrackers and display them on the streets. Some of the dummies represent political figures, international personalities, cartoon figures, and sometimes—terrorists. On New Year’s Eve, these stuffed dummies are set on fire. Some folks jump the gun and start setting fire to the dummies before New Year’s Eve! To put it simply: the dummies represent the “old year.”

So I guess if you had a really bad year at work, you can dress up a dummy like your boss and start the New Year out right!

We’ve also seen some peculiar “dressing up” as well (almost like Halloween) and some folks dress in black. I’m told they act as the old year’s “widow.” They move along the street asking for candy or money and then kick the dummy before it’s burned.

The student we are tutoring this month tried to explain the whole process, but I guess we’ll have to experience it in person! The reasoning behind kicking and burning the dummy is to ensure a good year if you’ve had a bad one.

We’ve been warned in advance that we can plan on not getting much rest on New Year’s Eve and so we’ve already lined up some good movies on DVD and we’ll plan on spending a “quiet” evening at home.

So tonight (for the second time in one week), we saw Mission Impossible 4 on the Big Screen at the Milenium Plaza (tickets were $4.60 per person). It was all in Spanish, but with Tom Cruise—who needs much translating!

Thankfully, there isn’t much we want to “kick” out of this year; it’s been a good one all around!

Próspero Año Nuevo!

Pase del Niño Viajero

2011-12-24T16:57:00.000-08:00

Make your own slideshow with music at Animoto.

Here's the link for the video: Click here.

Last year we spent Christmas in the San Francisco Bay Area and missed the" Pase del Niño Viajero" procession through Cuenca. I remember folks saying, "Oh no, you're going to miss the best part of the year!" At the time, I had no idea what they were talking about, but after experiencing it for ourselves today, we did miss a BIG DEAL!

There's really no way to describe the entire parade unless you experience it personally. And if you're planning a visit to Cuenca, I suggest you book ahead and make sure you're here during Christmas Eve -- worth the extra price tag that you might have to pay.

I did a little research on the Pase del Niño Viajero and found out that only in Cuenca is it possible to see this wonderful pagentry. Frommer's describes it this way:

"The annual Pase del Niño Viajero procession weaves through Cuenca on Christmas Eve. The angel of the guiding star heads the procession, followed by the Magi, shepherds, dancers and a statue of Baby Jesus - the Niño Viajero, 'travelling child'. A statue of Baby Jesus that was taken to the Holy Land, blessed by the Pope in Rome and returned to Cuenca in 1961is the focus of these Christmas Eve festivities. The procession is one of a series of Cuencan Pasadas that involve representations of the newborn Jesus, beginning on the first Sunday of Advent and continuing until Easter."

What a great way to celebrate Christmas Eve!

Blessings and Joy,

Connie, Mark and Mocha

Christmas Coffee!

2011-12-22T19:15:00.000-08:00

Mark and I decided not to give each other Christmas gifts this year, but I simply couldn’t resist sneaking something under the tree.

This morning Mark asked, “Did you happen to get coffee at the store yesterday?”

“Hmm…urr…yes,” I said hesitantly.

“Well, where is it?” Mark prompted.

I reached under the Christmas tree, grabbed the small package and blurted out, “Merry Christmas!”

“Wait, I thought we weren’t going to buy each other gifts?” Mark said forcefully.

“I don’t think this is really considered a ‘gift'— more like a necessity,” I whispered close to his ear, while handing him the loosely wrapped package in red cellophane.

Mark couldn’t have been more surprised as he tore into the “paper” and held up our favorite brand: Sweet and Coffee (think Starbucks of Ecuador). We held each other and reminisced about our first “Sweet and Coffee” experience in Guayaquil during our coastal vacation in July.

While I made coffee, Mark and I got out pictures of our trip and did a play-by-play account of each glorious day: Los Frailes (the most beautiful beach in Ecuador--possibly South America); our trip to Isla de la Plata, my first whale watching experience, our leisurely walks along the beach at night and breakfast each morning at our favorite café in Puerto Lopez (La Ballena – The Whale Café), where we soaked in an ocean view paired with the best French Toast I’ve ever tasted. But it’s the cappuccino that I remember the most; it was literally a “bowl”—not a cup. The foam was meringue-like and had me begging for seconds!

Is it any wonder that we came back from our vacation in paradise with a bag of “Sweet and Coffee” in our “mochila” (backpack)? This morning as we enjoyed Christmas Coffee on our balcony overlooking the Tomebamba River, we toasted to our memorable vacation and made reservations for our return trip, so we can once again bask in the glow of Ecuadorian sunsets, collect whole sand dollars on the pristine beaches of Los Frailes, and enjoy breakfast at La Ballena.

Truth be told; it’s not really about the coffee. It’s about all the experiences that come with it and this morning we re-lived one of those.

Our Christmas tree is decorated with reminders of Puerto Lopez—white sand dollars looped with red ribbon. Simple but elegant.

Christmas wouldn’t be complete without our favorite coffee and this morning we enjoyed the perfect blend!

May you find

health, happiness and peace

during this Holiday Season!

Feliz Navidad

Connie, Mark and Mocha

Sweet and Coffee

Technorati Tags: Christmas 2011, Puerto Lopez, Isla de la Plata, Sweet and Coffee, Guayaquil

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Feliz Navidad!

2011-12-19T19:11:00.000-08:00

After standing in line at the "correo" (post office) today, I thought there has to be a better way to send Christmas cards, so this is our gift to you with love from Cuenca, Ecuador. Enjoy!

Make a video of your own at Animoto.

My apologies to all the e-mail blog readers who weren't able to see the card. Click here to view it.

Happy Holidays from Cuenca!

Connie, Mark and Mocha

Jellied Cranberry Sauce?!?

2011-12-17T10:33:00.000-08:00

"Mark, can you believe it?" I gasped, while moving my shopping cart closer to get a better look at the top shelf. "It's Ocean Spray Cranberries!" I shouted, jumping up and down!

Truth be told, I don't even like cranberries: whole, jellied or in a sauce. It's just the idea that SuperMaxi carried it (just in case I changed my mind!).

I know Thanksgiving is history, but Christmas is just around the corner and the thought of a bowl full of cranberries sounds absolutely delightful at this point.

My hubby briefly looked at the price ($2.59) and gave me a downward glance which meant,"How much does this really mean to you?"

I clutched the can close to my heart and whispered, "It's priceless!"

“Okay,” my hubby smirked in satisfaction, “you can put it in the cart.”

"Thank-you...thank-you...thank-you!" I chimed, placing it in the shopping cart before he changed his mind.

When you compare the fact that Jif Peanut Butter is almost $8.00 for a medium-sized jar, I felt like I had won the lottery!

We don't normally shop at The Gringo Store (SuperMaxi), but when we do there are surprises around every corner. Tomorrow, I'm going on the hunt for Rocky Road Marshmallows (LARGE), and see what I can find.

I'll be reporting back...

Until next time...hasta luego!

Technorati Tags: cost of living in Ecuador, SuperMaxi, food costs in Ecuador

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English Students!

2011-12-16T20:23:00.000-08:00

I had the privilege of being able to talk to several classes at the University of Cuenca this week and on Wednesday I was at the Polytechnical University (Salesiana). I was impressed with the school's campus (murals everywhere), and more importantly the caliber of the students. The English Club asked me to speak to some of their students and it was so interesting to hear about their backgrounds--many of whom studied in the States in an exchange program.

Left to right: Carlos, Gaby, Diana, and Xavier

I met with Carlos, Gaby, Xavier and Diana all of whom are studying different majors (social marketing, accounting to electrical engineering) and their English is perfect! It was interesting to listen to their goals, their dreams and aspirations after graduation. As with many of the universities in Cuenca, there are English Clubs to help students refine their skills in speaking; however, I have to say that these students don't need improvement! They are incredibly bright, energetic and sincere. I count it a privilege to be able to learn from them and hopefully to shed some light on problems and challenges that they may face in the future as they enter their chosen professions.

Today I spoke at the University of Cuenca about Living and Retiring in Cuenca and the emerging expat explosion in Cuenca. I think it's just starting to sink in about how the tourism industry of Cuenca will be booming in the next few years and how they're going to have to accommodate the influx of foreigners--many of whom will be staying long-term. They're being proactive in their thinking and realize their strengths as well as their weaknesses. Cuenca will look much differently in five years, but the heart of the city will remain the same--the cultural capital of Ecuador.

We can already see the makings of a new transportation system "tranvia" (tram) that will encircle the city and the problem areas like the "redondel" on Avenida de las Americas will soon divert traffic under a tunnel which will create a lot less confusion during peak traffic times.

Future planning will determine the future of Cuenca and the city is working hard toward a plan that will accommodate not only its present residents, but for tourists who may someday call Cuenca home! So if you're planning a trip to Cuenca, now is the time to visit (December - February).

And now back to my Christmas shopping via the online stores. Our son left us an iPhone during his recent visit to Cuenca and I just found the perfect little gadget to "park" it!

Until next time...hasta luego!

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Rainy Days and Tuesdays

2011-12-13T21:10:00.000-08:00

Okay, I'll admit it; it rains a lot in Cuenca (even when it's not supposed to). And "yes" I've heard that people have moved away from this lovely city because they just can't tolerate the cold and the rain. Well, I'm not so sure about the cold part, but the rain does tend to get on my nerves a tad bit.

There are a few things I wish I had packed in my suitcase: lots of colorful rain boots, rain gear (rain coats with hoods), and Tote umbrellas in every size and color. That way, when it rains I can skip along with my boots and I don't have to worry about being splashed from head to toe by the big blue buses that seem to make it their purpose to hunt me down on every corner and make sure I'm drenching wet!

Really, I don't mind, but when I have to be somewhere (all dressed up), it makes me wish that I had carried a huge black garbage bag and plopped it over my head (with a few holes for my nose and eyes). Last night I had my "Tandem Club" at the University of Cuenca and it was beautiful when I entered the building, but soon the pitter patter of raindrops started and by the time I left there was a torrential downpour.

There were no taxis in sight (all were full), but I made the Magnolia Cafe my refuge. If you have to be stuck in a rainstorm, you might as well enjoy a great chicken salad sandwich and a warm cappuccino. I even managed to draft a Chicken Soup story out of the whole ordeal, so it was worth it. It gave me time to dry out, call my favorite taxi driver, and make my list for the States (in August) of all the splashy rain boots in hot pink with polka dots and colorful umbrellas. And I think a raincoat with a zip-out lining might even make me look forward to the rain. And just for kicks and giggles, I just might order a yellow slicker for Mocha!

To all you Ecuadorian Expat Wannabees...listen up! Pack up your rain gear.

Oh, and did I fail to mention...there's outdoor sitting with or without the rain (with heaters). Vive Magnolia Cafe!

Better yet, sit inside where it's really warm and cozy, but don't take "my" sofa!

Magnolia Cafe is located in the Otorongo Plaza -- can't miss it (red doors)!

Until next time...hasta luego!

Christmas in Cuenca

2011-12-12T13:52:00.000-08:00

This time last year, we were getting ready to go to the States for the holidays and missed a lot of the parades, parties and festivities of Christmas in Cuneca. So this year, we're taking it all in and then some! Although our schedules are full with teaching, speaking at the University of Cuenca, and writing, we're making a lot of time for PARTIES!

We started out the month by going to the "Open House" of Todo Santos--the church at the end of Calle Larga that has been wrapped in a blue tarp since we arrived last year. The restoration process should be complete by 2012, but they offered tours of the church, demonstration of the various types of breads made in Cuenca, and of course lunch at the Todo Santos Restaurant where there is also an art gallery and souvenir shop. You can even watch them make bread in the restored brick oven. The school children of Todo Santos put on a demonstration of their own (both in English and Spanish) which was quite informative.

And then off to the Christmas Bazar at Esquina de las Artes where the school children put on a performance every evening around 5:30 (rain or shine). They were adorable in their Christmas outfits and it was even more fun watching the parents scoot to the front of each row to get a picture of their child. It was definitely a family affair.

The University of Cuenca has asked me to speak several times to their classes (English and Tourism) about my book Living and Retiring in Cuenca, which they are now using as a textbook. When I first met the professors in the faculty lounge we spoke all in Spanish and then toward the end of our discussion, they switched into perfect English. Surprise!!! They've also invited Mark and me to their "tandem" meetings on Mondays where professors can practice their English. And then I will also be speaking at the Polytechnic University on Wednesday and helping out with their English Club as well. During the week, we keep busy with our "intercambio"' classes -- trading English for Spanish lessons and Mark continues to teach at CEDEI and loves it! Something tells me that we didn't really retire, we just changed direction in our lives.

And then the Christmas parties are beginning. We had a lovely time at Uncle Wally and Auntie Hazel's house on Saturday (they own Hostel de los Perros), but this party was for grown-ups -- no doggies allowed. We met new folks and "old" and enjoyed spectacular food, fellowship and "yes" presents for Mocha and the other doggies who missed the party. Aunt Hazel and Uncle Wally thought of everything -- right down to snowflakes cascading off the walls!

When we're at "el centro" there's always something going on: a parade, fireworks or a procession. I walked home after meeting some new folks in town who were staying at the Santa Lucia Hotel and I followed the music, the luminaries, and the procession to Santo Domingo Plaza where there was a fireworks display. It was almost magical with thousands of luminaries lining the streets and fireworks being lit off in the plaza. I don't think I've ever been that close to the action before and it was exhilarating.

And this week I had lunch with a special friend at Inca Real Hotel and she handed me a very special book. Her first Chicken Soup story was published! I remember when we first met and she shared with me a very poignant story from her past and I encouraged her to enter into Chicken Soup and it was accepted. It's always fun to watch others get published for the first time. Congratulations, Sue!

Now back to my writing deadlines and more Christmas parties this week. In between school and "work" we meet with new folks coming into town to look, explore, ask questions and make the all important decision, "Is Cuenca right for us?" Some of the questions are the same, but others are thought provoking. Most of the folks fall in love with Cuenca -- the way we did -- and others prefer a place that is warmer with less rain and head to Vilcabamba or somewhere on the coast. Cuenca certainly isn't for everyone, but for those of us who call it "home," we can't think of a better place to live and spend the holidays!

Our favorite months: December, January and February are filled with sunshine and we can "almost" forgive Cuenca for the months of rain that preceded it. While the rest of the world fights with snowstorms, we're enjoying our piece of paradise called "Cuenca."

Hasta luego y feliz navidad!

Our First Visitor!

2011-12-01T08:25:00.000-08:00

Our oldest son Jeremy came for a visit last week for Thanksgiving and I think he had some interesting observations, “Cuenca is a nice place to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there!” Of course, you have to consider that he’s a single 30-something with an active lifestyle and close to the metro-Philly area in Pennsylvania. And then again, he saw what Jiffy Peanut Butter sells for at SuperMaxi ($7.95). He was blown away at the food prices!

However, he was impressed with the Cajas Mountains and lunch at Dos Chorreras and, of course, La Mitad del Mundo in Quito. But after about the fourth day, he thought that everything started to taste the same—like butter. Yikes!

Personally, I think he was on sensory overload with all the graffiti on the walls, blue buses, yellow taxis, and a few stray llamas crossing the street. It made me realize that living overseas isn’t for everyone and maybe I should have made it mandatory that both our boys spend a year in a foreign exchange program during their senior year of high school. But the farewell dinner at Tiesto's Restaurant made him recant his statement about all the food tasting the same. So who knows, maybe he’ll be back!

Yesterday I spent a delightful afternoon with the hospitality and tourism students at the University of Cuenca. They asked me to speak about the “gringo” phenomenon in Cuenca and why I wrote the book Living and Retiring in Cuenca. The students were delightful and asked some thought-provoking questions. I also donated a copy of the book to the library and hopefully I’ll be able to assist in other areas as well as Cuenca adjusts to the gringo invasion. I told the students that I’m thankful that Cuenca hasn't changed the “heart” of the city and I doubt that there will ever be a McDonald’s on Calle Larga, but definitely gringos are making their mark!

In a recent article, US Money reports that Cuenca is still listed as one of the best places in the world to retire on a pensioner’s budget. Gone are the days when you can live in Cuenca on $600 a month; they raised the bar to $1,300 a month as a minimum and $500 for rent. However, there are still excellent places to rent for $250 (two-bedrooms and two baths). In fact, we looked at a brand new five bedroom, 4-1/2 bath home with granite tile throughout overlooking the Tomebamba that rented for $250 a month. We felt it was simply too much space for us and we didn’t feel like climbing stairs, but it was definitely a bargain! You just need to know the right people and have connections. And that only comes with knowing the language and integrating into the culture.

We look forward to more visits in the future, including my best friend who is planning to visit in April 2012 (the month of “mil aguas”—a thousand waters), so we’ll have to find a lot of indoor activities like mall shopping! I’m sure that we won’t lack for things to do and, of course, it’s always a great time to visit the thermal baths in Baños or the Olympic-sized pool right down the street!

Until next time…hasta luego!

Thanksgiving in Cuenca!

2011-11-21T20:21:00.000-08:00

Tomorrow we leave to pick up our son in Quito and bring him down to Cuenca to enjoy Thanksgiving with us at Villa San Carlos. Thankfully, I don't have to cook this year and I hear they're putting on quite a spread.

Unfortunately, I made the mistake of looking at the 10-day forecast which I hope is wrong (RAIN the entire time he's here). We've had brilliant sunshine the past two weeks and the rivers are running at a "drip" so I guess it's time for some big thunder boomers, but I'm hoping the weather guy at Wunderground.com is off on his predictions.

We're going to play tourists in Quito (I haven't even made it to "Mitad del Mundo"), so whether it's raining or not we're going to get pictures (albeit a bit soggy).

A lot of work went into planning this trip, including Mark getting substitute teachers for all his classes (and paying them in advance), hotel reservations, plane tickets (up to Quito and back x4), and getting Mocha ready to stay with Auntie Hazel and Uncle Wally at Hostel del los Perros.

But the good thing is we're done with classes and "yes" we got promoted to Intermediate/Advanced. CEDEI is an excellent language school and the teachers and students are amazing (and I'm not just saying that because my hubby is one of them). In fact one of the perks of teaching there -- if you have your cédula (national identification card) -- is you get social security and IESS (national healthcare plan). There are four teachers with their cédula that are employed at CEDEI and Mark is one of them. So now we're doubly insured (medically).

I took some time on Saturday to visit Mark's four-hour intensive class and all the kids are great. Mark is an amazing teacher and makes sure their pronunciation is perfect! The four hours slid by and then we were off to have lunch at our favorite place (to be announced!), and getting some last minute items for my son's visit to Cuenca.

In the meantime, I've been writing like crazy and I'm so thankful to all my editors who are accepting scanned permission releases which makes my job so much easier. This past weekend, I was accepted into two compilation books and one is dear to my heart -- Angels, Miracles and Heavenly Encounters. The book will be released in June 2012.

Wishing you all a blessed Thanksgiving!

Until next time...hasta luego!

Independence Day Festivities

2011-11-06T20:24:00.000-08:00

It’s been a while since I blogged, so I thought I should make an appearance before you think I disappeared for good!

We had a glorious time during the Independence Day Celebrations in Cuenca (officially November 3^rd), but it actually ends up being about six days of parades, fireworks, street vendors, food vendors, and tourists from all parts of the country who converge on Cuenca to make it a memorable time for all. This year was spectacular in that the rain decided to make an exit and every day we were greeted with crystal blue skies and white fluffy clouds.

To quote my Ecuadorian neighbor, “We lump the ‘Feast of the Dead’ and Independence Day all in the same week!” For me it’s more like Halloween, Thanksgiving, Fourth of July and Christmas all rolled up into one. In fact, my hubby’s students at CEDEI say that this holiday is celebrated with greater intensity than Christmas. We’ll see about that as last year we flew back to the States for the holidays.

Our days are full with Spanish classes, Mark’s English classes at CEDEI and my writing. I just finished a huge editing project and now I’m able to get some things done before our son, Jeremy, arrives for a visit during the last week of November. We plan on celebrating his birthday, Thanksgiving and Christmas all at the same time while he’s here. In fact, our Christmas tree just went up and all the sand dollars that I collected during our vacation in Puerto Lopez are now woven together with red ribbon and are gracing our tree with holiday cheer.

We have met some amazing folks this past month—too many to mention in this blog, but all have been such a delight. Diego and Be Ta are from Slovakia and plan on returning to Cuenca in four more years. We first met them through Facebook and it was so nice to actually meet them in person. They have an apartment for rent, which I have posted a link to on the sidebar of this blog. Don’t worry, I’m not involved in real estate or property management; I’m just doing it as a favor for some wonderful new friends.

In August 2012, however, Mark and I will be in the States and plan on doing some seminars on “Living and Retiring in Cuenca.” In fact, our story will be in the upcoming book Chicken Soup for the Soul: Say Goodbyeto Stress. The dates and locations of the seminars will be announced as time gets closer, but they will be in the San Francisco Bay Area (August 1-22), so if you happen to be in California during that time, we look forward to meeting you in person.

I’ll leave you with some highlights of Cuenca’s Independence Day Celebration…

Until next time…hasta luego!

Technorati Tags: Cuenca's Independence Day, Chicken Soup for the Soul, Living and Retiring in Cuenca

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*The Map Maker's Wife is a great read if you want some South American history mixed in with a romantic fiction novel.

Expat Etiquette

2011-10-14T20:29:00.000-07:00

We have a unique place along the river with a window on the world—literally! Every room in our condo has a view of the Tomebamba and we enjoy the comings and goings of folks. We see some interesting things: car crashes, international soccer teams coming to stay at the Hotel Oro Verde next door, walkers/joggers/runners on the trail (just like clockwork) and an occasional “newbie” expat who is “fighting” the culture.

Yesterday while I was washing dishes, I saw a new gringo in town cursing out a taxi driver—shouting, screaming, waving his hands and making obscene gestures with his hands. Uh-oh, I guess no one told him that pedestrians don’t have the right away! He was crossing the street and expected the taxi driver to stop for him. Interestingly enough, I’ve seen taxi drivers brake for dogs, but not for humans which still babbles me. Anyway, no one was injured!

Many expats come to Cuenca and expect things to run just like they did in America and when those two worlds clash there is often a visible sign of disgust or worse yet—a horrible scene (like yesterday).

Some of us have the ability to adapt more easily to a new culture than others. After living in Sicily for six years—where drivers have a death wish—this is truly paradise. Ecuadorians are mild mannered (except when they drive), soft-spoken and polite. What’s not to like?

Expat etiquette is pretty simple: treat others the way you would like to be treated. Read some books on Ecuadorian culture and know what to expect in certain situations. Also, it’s important to integrate and not isolate. We’ve noticed that there are basically two groups of expats: those who just hang around with other expats and those who integrate. They develop a healthy respect for the Ecuadorian culture and involve themselves with events outside the expat community: volunteering their time at orphanages, teaching English or adopting an Ecuadorian family!

The language is a barrier for some and therefore they don’t even bother to learn Spanish, but the more time you spend time in immersing yourself, the greater the reward. Language learning is hard work. After the basics, it’s just plain memorization! Spanish has a lot of irregular verbs and “yes” they do use the subjunctive a lot, so that means getting out the 3x5 cards and doing your homework. In our Spanish class we have PhD professors, doctors and lawyers (highly intelligent people), but learning a new language has nothing to do with your IQ. Some folks just plain give up too early; it takes constant, continued work to get to the next level.

One recent visitor to Cuenca made an interesting observation: “We have to be careful not to create our own ‘ghetto’ (meaning: an isolated group). Involve yourself in activities other than just expat events, teach, volunteer and continue with language learning.

Expat etiquette is more than just “minding your manners,” it goes much deeper than that. Thankfully, the isolated events like the one I mentioned above is the exception and not the norm.

Until next time…hasta luego!

The Price of Paradise

2011-10-03T23:31:00.000-07:00

One of the most common questions I receive has to do with the cost of living in Cuenca and is it increasing?!?

The answer is “yes” and “no.”

For us, the bottom line hasn’t changed: our rent is the same, utilities, transportation (the bus is still 25 cents) and groceries are relatively inexpensive (except Jif Peanut Butter!). However, the services and products that expats require are gradually inching up.

One of my barometers is the place where I go to write (Wunderbar) and it’s been interesting to watch the “almuerzo” menu change over the past year from $1.75 to $2.00, $2.50, $2.75, $3.50, $4.00, $4.50 and now it’s $5.50! My first response was, “En serio” (Are you kidding?). Around Cuenca—especially in some of the finer restaurants—you will see the menu has been tampered with (meaning: stickers have been placed over the old prices to reflect the higher ones).

The Wunderbar Café is a real touristy place, right off Calle Larga and in the newly renovated building “La Casa de la Escalinata,” so I’m going to chock it up to the cost of building renovations! The same type of meal can be had all over the city for $2.00 (or less). But I love the “courtyard” area and I’ve written some of my best stories there, so it will still be one of my favorite places.

Just like the States, variations in prices exist. Coffee Tree is another one of my writing hangouts, but the cappuccino is not that great and it’s comparable to Starbucks prices. However, right down the street at “Indigo” I can get a “bowl” of café latte for 50 cents which is far superior.

It’s interesting that Mark received a cost of living raise at CEDEI and it’s only been a month! The reason for the raise is they feel that prices are going up in the city, so they gave all the teachers a raise.

Of course, when you factor in that our health insurance is so reasonable and medical costs are one-tenth of what they are in the States, it makes some of the other minor price elevations seem almost laughable.

We have asked our Ecuadorian friends what they think of all the changes that are occurring in Cuenca and for the most part they are favorable, but some have expressed concern. Many Ecuadorians are starting up their own businesses that cater to expats (translation services, language lessons, transportation, etc.). Some are charging ridiculous rates ($12-$20 an hour). And all of this is “untaxed” money (or under the table). There is no “factura” and no invoice. When you consider that the average breadwinner makes about $436 per month (or less) and they have to pay taxes on what they earn, you can understand their concern.

Times are changing in Cuenca and I’m sure next year—this time—the landscape of Cuenca will again reflect the changes. But they will be gradual and hopefully won’t change the “core” of “el centro.” At least there are no McDonald’s yet and I don’t foresee that happening anytime soon.

Cuenca reminds me a lot of “Taormina” in Sicily, Italy where we lived for six years and it was a real tourist town, but didn’t waver when it came to planning and projecting for the future. Today it still remains a quaint town with cobblestone streets that time has forgotten. I hope that Cuenca can remain that way as well.

Paradise has a price, but for now we’re enjoying the Cuenca we have come to love!

Until next time…hasta luego!

Seattle in Cuenca?!?

2011-09-29T23:19:00.000-07:00

I thought I was imagining the whole thing until I heard one of the ESL teachers (at CEDEI) comment, “This weather makes me feel right at home!”

When I asked him where he was from, he said, “Seattle!”

September has been filled with a blanket of gray skies, but we’ve been too busy to notice what the weather’s been like! We have such a rich and full life that I hardly know what we did with all our time before we went back to school and Mark started teaching.

Blue Skies?

During the weekdays we’re in Spanish Class at CEDEI, Mark’s teaching English, and on the weekends we play—normally doing things with the students or teachers at CEDEI. It has brought us into an entirely new and exciting world. Most of the teachers at CEDEI are in their 20’s (having just finished college or working on their Masters ) and the other half are in their 50’s—many of whom travel the world teaching English. There’s no middle ground. Those who are in their 30’s and 40’s are still back in the States putting in their 20 years of hard labor so they can PLAY when they grow up!

Home on the Range!

Since I’m slated to teach in January, I’m trying to catch up on my writing and get to the next level in Spanish so I don’t sound like an 6^th grader the rest of my life. Mark and I are not your typical expats, so please don’t follow our example!

Students and Teachers at CEDEI -- on the weekends!

I thought my writing was suffering (with all the activity) until I received two acceptance notices this week and one was from the Chicken Soup series. The book won’t be out until May 2012, but it’s the story of how we came to Cuenca (the roller coaster ride). Looking back on it, it was pretty “stormy” weather getting here, but now we can enjoy the fruits of our labor. I don’t envy any of you who are going through the packing, selling and getting here stage. But once you’re here, you’ll almost forget what you went through to get “south of zero”!

Roasting in the Country!

If you find yourself talking about the weather in Cuenca, then it’s time to travel, study or volunteer. Yes, it’s a lot like “Seattle in Cuenca,” and probably not the best place to live if you suffer from seasonal affective disorder, but one thing is for sure—you will never have to worry about heat or humidity!

Until next time...hasta luego!

Expat Profiles

2011-09-22T13:41:00.000-07:00

Arrival in Cuenca - June 5, 2010

Since arriving here last year, I’ve been trying to figure out the typical expat profile and every time I think I’ve got it figured out, someone comes along and breaks the mold!

Most of us have some type of stereotype of the typical expat and mine went something like this: double income (double retirement), no kids (or pets) and well into their 60’s or 70’s. Yes, there is a lot of that, but a new expat profile is emerging.

Instead, we’re seeing more and more folks in their 50’s and some in their 30’s and 40’s who are tired of the rat race in America. They’re sick of working a 60-hour work week with little (or nothing) to show for it. With 401K’s tanking, a dwindling economy, and long commutes, they’re looking for a slower pace of life with a chance to do something with the little investment revenue they have left.

The expat profile basically falls into three categories: investors, business entrepreneurs, and those who are truly retired (pensioners). It’s always easy to spot the entrepreneurs: they’re always trying to sell you something—from greeting cards to a hacienda in the Yunguilla Valley!

Learning the Alphabet in English

Mark and I are not investors; we’re pensioners who like to call ourselves the “working class” of Cuenca. Mark teaches English five days a week from 4-8 p.m. and I’m a freelance writer who volunteers at “La Esperanza” orphanage. And, it looks like in January I will also be teaching at CEDEI.

Unlike many expats, we experienced “retirement” in reverse in our 20’s and 30’s, during which time we traveled throughout Europe. And then in our mid-30’s we settled down to raise our family and put in our 20 years of “hard labor”—enough to get a pension—and retired in Ecuador because of the medical benefits.

It’s amazing to me that we can live in Cuenca on the same amount that our medical premiums would be in the States. In fact, many of the expats in their 50’s have decided to retire in Ecuador for the same reason. When you realize that medical premiums can be as high as $55,000 a year in the States and you can live on one-quarter of that in Ecuador, it makes you re-think your retirement options.

The Kids at La Esperanza

We still travel, but now we look forward to having our kids visit. Jeremy, our oldest, will be arriving in November and Jon and his wife, hopefully, will be coming next summer. The experience of traveling overseas is not a new one to Jeremy (he was born and raised in Italy), but it’s been 20 years since he’s had a new perspective.

Christmas in California 2010

Oh, I almost forgot…there’s another expat profile I wish I didn’t have to mention! Mark and I were dining out at one of our favorite restaurants when we heard the words , “I owe the government $XXX,XXXX but they’ll never get it from me now!” I’m sorry, but this goes beyond the ugly American syndrome. When you’re obviously intoxicated you say things you probably shouldn’t, but repeating it over and over again (as if we didn’t hear it the first time) is totally inappropriate. We felt the need to apologize—to the Cuencanos at our table—for the bad manners of our American “counterpart.”

Thankfully, the latter is a small fraction of the expat community in Cuenca, but one bad “apple” can spoil the whole bunch. I think it’s best to remember that we are guests in this country and can be asked to leave at any time. Until such time as you get your Ecuadorian passport and become a citizen of Ecuador instead of resident, it’s best to behave yourself!

For the most part, expats are doing their part to better the reputation of “norteamericanos” by volunteering their time, immersing themselves in the culture and learning Spanish.

Having "almuerzo" with one of the CEDEI students

Let’s continue to keep the expat profile a positive one!

Until next time…hasta luego!

Back to School

2011-09-13T20:43:00.000-07:00

When our boys were young, I loved the back-to-school time of year: crisp fall mornings, making sack lunches, and soccer practice every afternoon. Those days are gone, but in their place is life in Cuenca as students with a teacher in the family!

Mark is busy with classes at CEDEI (he's also required to take six hours of Spanish each week), and I’m teaching English at “La Esperanza” (orphanage). It’s all part of our plan to keep our brains functioning into our old age. So far it seems to be working (I think!).

Our goal—for the first two years in Cuenca—is to immerse ourselves in the language and culture as much as possible and we’re about half way there. For us, that means spending more time with Ecuadorians than native-speakers of English which has been difficult, but profitable for our language learning!

On Sunday we spent ten hours with our “adopted” Ecuadorian family which mainly consisted of eating, playing soccer, eating some more, playing soccer until we all dropped and the porch light went out. Mark and I were in charge of bringing potato salad for 60 people (that’s a lot of potatoes, celery, onions and eggs!). We had hamburgers and hot dogs with all the trimmings and celebrated FOUR birthdays with two chocolate cakes and one candle in the form of a question mark. There were four generations present, including “la abuela” (grandmother) who took me under her wing. Being invited into an Ecuadorian kitchen—to cook with the rest of the clan—was quite an honor and now I’m officially part of “la familia.”

Our new schedule has taken some getting used to and coincided with several writing deadlines so we feel less than “retired.” But we’ve still been able to keep up with our date nights which we celebrated last week at “Mangiare Bene” which gets five stars: price, value, location, menu selection and authentic Italian cuisine. Because we spent six years in Italy, we’ve been less than impressed with the pasta in Cuenca, but Mangiare came through with flying colors. The kitchen area is open (think Macaroni Grill in the States), so you can see everything being made fresh right before your eyes. I ordered the penne pasta with jumbo shrimp and it was amazing; the pasta was perfect – “al dente.” Our entrees were served with garlic bread and our drinks were on the house!

Mangiare Bene!

We’re back into the swing of things and the weather is even cooperating! It feels like football season in Pennsylvania, complete with cloudy skies and cool mornings. The school buses are running, the kids are back in school, and so are we!

Until next time…hasta luego!

It's the Little Things...

2011-09-03T13:30:00.000-07:00

Someone once told me that it’s the little things in life that will get you…not the big things. How true that is! I think I handled a cancer diagnosis much better than a computer hacker that turned my life upside for the past month! A whole host of e-mails were sent out in my name that went to family, friends and “yes” my editors.

Jardin del Valle

The responses of the receivers ranged from: “Oh, don’t worry...that happened to us…keep the faith” to “I’ve spammed you!” And somewhere inbetween was, “I’m so sorry this happened to you; how can I make your day better?”

You can always tell who your true friends are by the way they respond in a crisis: they don't minimize it; they don't maximize it; they make it manageable! Thankfully, we already knew who those people were and sure enough they came through—yet again. Although I’m not comparing a cancer diagnosis to a hacking problem, but it sure has some similarities (it takes over your life for a while!).

Yunguilla Valley -- where the sun is always shining!

Things are almost back to normal and through it all I was able to keep up with my writing deadlines and even got a writing contract, so that was the silver lining. We are fortunate to have an amazing network of folks here in Cuenca who have blessed our lives; we can always count on them. Our friend, Dave, knew about our situation and said, “I want to take you guys to the Yunguilla Valley; you’ll forget all about everything!”

Entrance to Jardin del Valle

So on Thursday—while my hard drive was being scrubbed—we enjoyed the beauty of Yunguilla— just a 75 km drive from Cuenca (about 40 minutes) .The sunny skies and subtropical weather were a welcome relief. A smile lifted my cheeks and I whispered to my hubby, “Isn’t this paradise?”

Butterfly Shrimp -- Oh, YUM!

We dined at Jardin del Valle (a friend of ours owns this lovely hosteria) and he treated us like royalty. We sat at poolside, enjoyed jumbo butterfly shrimp and had volcano cake for dessert. Afterwards, we played ping-pong and talked to the resident parrots: “Paco and Lucy.” Watch out what you say because they will repeat every word!

Paco and Lucy "Los papagallos"

After we soaked in some sun, we made our way through some of the back roads of the valley where we visited some friends who are building an hosteria that is almost complete. I told Mark that I’m going to sign up to be the caretaker of their property. He can teach at CEDEI during the week, while I lounge poolside with a good book.

I could get used to this!

When we arrived home that evening, I felt like a new person. It’s the “little things” in life that make a HUGE difference!

Until next time…hasta luego!

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