Living in Bulgaria

Even More

2013-03-27T13:10:00.001+02:00

There were also some herbs growing in various places. This was another opportunity to put into action our 'good life' skills. You remember the Good Life TV series from the 1970s? Ohhh......... well if you don't, you can see a selection from the video bar to the right. Incidentally, apart from the living off the land aspect of the series, the relationship between the snobby Margot and Gerry her husband, and the down to earth, but still middle class Tom and Barbara, paints such a contrasting picture of middle class English life, whereas here in Bulgaria there is no middle class, even though one is much needed to generate the economy. Anyway more about that next time.
There is a patch of Lavender plants running along the side of the house, in about the second sunniest place of the garden. At the height of the summer heat, when they were most aromatic and when we were most intoxicated by their scent, we gathered and then dried the stalks up on the third floor on the stair rail. Later they would be put into bags to perfume the cupboards and other enclosed spaces.

There are also many other benefits from lavender which can alleviate these conditions :-

Relieving anxiety and tension especially through massage
Aiding sleep
Natural chemical free alternative to perfume
Pain Relief
Muscular aches and pains
Headaches and Migraines
Menstrual Cramps
Burns
Acne/Dry skin/Sunburned Lips
Insect Bites
Dandruff.

Divisil (Lovage) and Mursalski Chai (Mountain tea)

Drying the Lovage

By the other wall there was a clump of Lovage. There is a Bulgarian dish called Bop. I like that name. Bop is a bean casserole, and cooked with lovage is delicious.

But the star of our garden herbs has to be a visitor from the Rhodope and Pirin Mountain. Although it was only a small plant, we made use of it by drying and making it into tea. I don't know how the herb arrived. Its harvesting is actually protected by law here. But it is endemic in Bulgaria and the Balkans and drunk all over Europe. Its natural habitat is above 1000 metres. Here we live at about 750 metres. It has various names such as Shepherd's tea, Olympus tea (in Greece) and Ironwort. In Germany it is known as Bergtea.
Once again it has many curative properties:-

Reputedly protects against prostate cancer
Bronchitis and Viral Infections
Promotes elasticity of the skin
Anti aging
Protects against the formation of free radicals
Anti oxidant.
It is known as the Bulgarian Natural Viagra.

Mursalski

More Fruitfulness

2013-03-03T18:01:00.000+02:00

As well as the planting of our vegetables ( ok the tomato is a fruit), there was a natural supply of berries which were already situated in the garden. I assume that they were planted by the previous owners, unless the bushes were there before that and they built the wall around them, which I find unlikely, but you never know. Anyway we had a crop of red currants, black currants and on the other side the fashionable Aronia berries, the now much published wonder food. Aronia, being native of North America, is known as Chokeberry. Not a very confidence boosting name I am sure you will agree but nevertheless

Black currants

we had a reasonable supply which we made into juice. It did taste very nice. Apparently Aronias are a very good anti -oxidant and reducer of blood pressure plus at least half a dozen other benefits. I found this list on the web :-

1) The aronia berry is a great source of antioxidants

2) The aronia berry fights against heart disease and other cardiovascular problems

3) The aronia berry helps prevent blood pressure from becoming too high

4) The aronia berry promotes a healthy urinary tract

5) The aronia berry has anti-inflammatory properties

6) The aronia berry fights bacteria and viruses, such as colds and the flu

7) The aronia berry strengthens memory

8) The aronia berry helps in digestion

9) The aronia berry helps the body produce good cholesterol

10) The aronia berry provides the body with essential oils

So there you go !.

Below I am drinking Aronia juice with breakfast. No, it is really not wine !

Fruitfulness

2013-03-03T13:21:00.001+02:00

One of the activities I particularly wanted to get on with as soon as possible was planting vegetables. Being June when we moved in it was well into the growing season. The gardens around were already brimming with produce and we hadn't even started, but within a week or so we bought tomatoes, aubergines, leeks, peppers, onions, and courgettes.
I cleared a patch of grass just beside the house where the early morning sun would shine and remain for most of the day. We planted most of the tomatoes there and the aubergines, with a great deal of hope rather than surety that we would be successful. The remaining tomatoes, along with the peppers we put in the sunniest place by the garage, where it got particularly hot from mid morning. Because we had to make do with the space we had, we also put the leeks and onions there. The zucchini went up by the wall on the other side of the house where there is more shade and where they would hold the watering longer....and we waited..... no we did not stand there day and night...just watered and kept an anticipating eye on our first agricultural venture.
I must say that although Bulgaria has very fertile soil, I was not sure about the quality in our garden and it was a case of ...well we've planted now let's see what happens.
One pleasure of mine in England was making hanging baskets. I brought some with me and we filled two of them with flowers and hung them on the front porch. This caused quite an interest as most people who visited had not seen hanging baskets before.
We were happy and surprised that within two weeks the tomatoes, aubergines and peppers were thriving. It was a bit dry for the onions as the soil was stony. The leeks were fine though and the zucchini were settling into a green display but with few flowers.

Tomatoes and Aubergines

Peppers

It was not long before we noticed a difference in the zucchini. Two of them turned out to be cucumbers and frankly they were the most successful. Finally we only got two zucchini and several cucumbers...ah well.
All the watering was achieved by connecting a water pump to a series of hosepipes and then immersing it into the stream that flows across from our house. Another new experience ! The tap water here is metered and also rationed during the hot dry months so the proximity of this water source is really welcome. Incidentally the sticks supporting the tomatoes and aubergines I found as branches at the side of the street. In the UK I would have bought canes but here there is another mentality which I have gradually acquired, as I said.
As the season passed our peppers numbered around one hundred. We had about three hundred tomatoes and fifteen or so aubergines. These were the most successful. As well as eating them immediately in salads---and they were so fresh and delicious, they would be used later in the year to make a variety of Bulgarian preserves which I will describe later.

Unbridled joy at our first tomato

Our Chili Peppers of varying heat

Tomatoes, Aubergines and a Cucumber

Berbatov, Martin Petrov, Bolton and The Rudartsi Chorus

2013-02-21T08:51:00.000+02:00

Even though we had a friendly reception from our immediate neighbours which made us feel welcome, while I was at home on my own during the day I would explore the village, which, in the hot weather, included a beer or two in one of the local bars. Cristo's shop and bar is just opposite the main mineral spring. It was here where a universal interest manifested itself.....football. The men drinking there in the afternoon, having heard about the 'Anglichanina', immediately on seeing me called out "Anglia...Berrbaatov...Manchesterrr Unitett", in strong accents.

As in Greece many years ago when I went there, everyone seems to think that if you are English that you support Man. Utd. assuming you like football in the first place, just because the rest of the world seems to do. I put them right immediately, saying NO! Martin Petrov ...Bolton (which is where I was born). This made a good impression and I was invited to drink at their table as a result. From then on this is how I have been known every time they saw me. On a visit to the Pools one of the staff there was wearing an Stylian Petrov Aston Villa shirt. So there is quite an English connection via the footy.

It was not just the football though. Wherever I went often someone would try to strike up a conversation. As I had learned little Bulgarian at the time, these conversations would be made up of several languages, depending on what they knew or I knew; my schoolboy French, nightschool German, English and Bulgarian. Almost everyone I, and we came across said hello, sometimes in English. I found this very comforting that they were so friendly and as a foreigner I felt at home.
There was also a familiarity that I did not expect. When I used to live in the village of Chew Moor, near Bolton when I was a boy, my mother would take me for walks on summer afternoons. We used to visit a lady who used to sell orange juice. She also used to keep pigs. We would also go to the local farm along the cobbled lane to see the cows. I think you can imagine what scents (if that is the right word) and sounds filled those langourous strolls....and Rudartsi, with the pigs down our road, clucking hens and the proud cock strutting in the pen...brought back so many memories of the village where I used to live, with the addition of goats and sheep wandering across the road and fields.
There is usually an assumption that living in the country is quiet and tranquil. Well it is much of the time. But early in the summer morning, in fact I would say too early, what I call the 'Rudartsi Chorus' would start up. Somewhere close by or maybe in the distance one of the many dogs would start barking. As is usual with dogs, once one starts, another replies until throughout the village there is a canine conversation, argument or whatever it is, which I am sure we will never understand, resounding and echoing across the valley. But as someone who has lived near a railway, before long I hardly noticed the barking, just as I never noticed the trains.
There are many stray dogs in Bulgaria, particularly in Sofia. In Rudartsi there are fewer and some are taken in from the street. Rudartsi is a village where people own summer houses, living here until the winter sets in, then returning to Sofia, and they bring their dogs with them. Owners also let their dogs wander for someone else to feed. Others are seen continuously outside restaurants longing for food. In winter it can be really hard for them. A really sorry sight and one which needs to be addressed. A controlled programme of neutering these strays is necessary and the problem will only get worse if nothing is done. I am told that provision was made for this but it never happened. This doggy below we thought was a stray. We saw him regularly covered in dust and thistles from where he had been sleeping outside. Then suddenly one day he had been groomed, probably by his owner. Then in late summer he disappeared, maybe back to Sofia.

Decorating and Settling In

2013-01-25T12:10:00.002+02:00

Another thing about Bulgaria is that if you want some work to be done, then there is usually someone you know who has a friend, or who has a brother who has a friend who will do it. It is the way the tradesmen operate, recommendation after recommendation.

When we were helped to load the furniture into the garage we were helped by friends of Mihail who were furniture removers for that day. The decorating was done by these same friends minus Marijuan but plus Mishako, another friend, who has a talent for being practically multi-talented, not only decorating, but putting things back together, erecting washing lines and climbing up poles sideways with arms at 90 degrees. Genny, apart from being a plasterer is also a fire eater in such festivals as Glastonbury. Quite a varied group.

The decorating process began a few days later when Joro came with all his colour options for us to choose, also helped by the artistic Velina. We went from top to bottom, notes were taken and all was set for the temporary family to take residence and start work. Yes it was a residence. I have never known this in England. Apart from occasional nights back in Sofia, they all slept in our house in sleeping bags on the floor and worked very hard as it was a big job. Several times they worked after 11.pm and once till 1.am to get the job done. Can you imagine that in the UK ?

All this took place during the Euro 2012 Football Finals. We would all sit on the terrace with the TV standing on a cupboard we had brought outside, cooking on the outdoor grill, with plenty of liquid refreshment.

Meanwhile we spent our time getting to know the village. It was obvious very early on that just about everyone knew an Englishman had moved into the village. Everyone seemed to know me. I was even getting people I had not met telling me that I had a letter to pick up at the post office, and others saying "hello" in English. As they say about villages your every move is known even before you do it, but I found it so encouraging that there is a general 'keeping an eye on things'. It does help to go shopping locally and being seen in the centre very often.

While Margarita was at work I began to start work on the garden. Our garden is blessed with a beautiful array of roses of many colours. Unlike in England where they bloom and fade, with perhaps a second show later, they continue blooming here until late autumn.

Bulgaria is in fact known as the 'land of roses'. The Valley of Roses in the centre of the country around Kazanlak exports its rose oil to world famous perfumiers.

However, as a contrast to all the pleasant work in the garden, there was also a considerable amount of unwanted rubbish to be cleared, or at least things we didn't need. I must say that prior to moving from the UK, I would have thrown things away without thinking. But there is a mentality here, probably borne out of the lean times of the past and also, I think, of a practical approach to daily life, that thinks twice before dumping anything. This rubbed off on me very early on. We had no canes to support our newly planted tomatoes, but I saw a pile of pruned trees in the lane, sawed them up into lengths and used them. Whatever is thrown it seems can be used by someone else, for something else.

The restaurants and bars in the village might be natural places to socialise, but the metal containers which serve as the local dumps are also focal points. There is no recycling here so everything goes to one of these containers and the rubbish tipped out weekly. But before that everyone gets a pick. I put some old plastic sheets beside the one just down from our house, I went back for the rest and the sheets had already disappeared when I returned. Gypsies make regular rounds of these bins looking for metal or whatever they can use or sell. It is quite an industry.

I mentioned about the lack of recycling and as you can see these containers are certainly not the prettiest things in the world. But are they uglier than the plastic bins crammed into every house frontage in the UK ? I would say they are uglier but they are placed here and there so they do not dominate the streets as in the UK. The fact that much rubbish is piled around them before it is collected looks bad though. The picture below brings home a reality. What is taken for granted in the rich west is another story here !

Gypsy boy searching through a container in Sofia

The Move

2013-01-24T10:58:00.002+02:00

Rudartsi is quite an extensive village spa, spread along the sides of a valley which is dominated by the Vitosha National Park. It is about 25 kilometres from Sofia and about 14km from Pernik.
Surrounded by nature, with mineral water springs and tremendous views, Rudartsi is really beautiful. The main attraction in summer is the swimming pools complex, fed by the mineral springs which flow from the mountain. The complex is situated in the centre, a few hundred metres left of the road from Pernik, When you see the circular Mineral Spring Building, by the few white fruit and vegetable units, turn left there. There are three pools and also a restaurant, snacks, waffles, an ice cream stall and bars.
Rudartsi also has several restaurants and, just as you enter the village from the Pernik direction, a wonderful little home made bread shop, which also sells dough, milk and yoghurt.
There are marked paths up and over the Vitosha Mountain, 2390 metres at its highest point which is the Black Peak. Well marked signs point you in the right direction, also at various places, stations or huts where you can rest and cook. If you want to walk up there in summer, I suggest you start very early because of the heat later in the day.
When, as I said, we were looking for houses in various places and we decided on Rudartsi, I was pleased that Rudartsi is, as I say "on the Greece road". It is only 160 kilometres from the Greek border. Rather than having a south facing garden in England, we now have a south facing mountain. It is surprising how there is a noticeable difference in the weather compared to the north side particularly in autumn and winter. The sun shines a bit longer and the air is often clearer with blue skies, when Sofia is misty and cloudy.
Minibuses operate every hour to Sofia (30 minutes) and Pernik (20 minutes) which begin their route from Kladnitsa, which is the next village higher up the mountain. You can drive up to Kladnitsa and begin your walk at a higher point. Or you can just sit there and enjoy the views of the the distant Rila Mountain, the highest in the Balkans at 2925 metres.

Mineral Springs

Rudartsi Pools, also known as the Beach.

Vitosha Mountain

So the day finally arrived. On 10th of June we took a taxi loaded with bits and pieces from Sofia. Winding our way through the pass that leads through the mountain we arrived in Rudartsi.
It was such a relief that we were finally there. The previous owners had been very kind to let us store my furniture there and they had moved out the previous day in order to make it much more convenient for us. I don't think it necessary to describe the detail. Suffice to say that our house, like most in Rudartsi and many in Bulgaria for that matter, is three storeys high. It was quite an exercise to walk upstairs and also back down carrying whatever. My thighs certainly knew they had done it. We did not bring everything in immediately though because we had arranged for the interior to be decorated.
So after dinner, we spent our first blissful night, marvelling at the stars through the open window, to the sound of the sweetly flowing stream outside and a lone cricket clicking away in the warm evening.

Gurlo

2013-01-23T10:50:00.000+02:00

Gurlo is a very quiet place on the other side of Breznik near Pernik and not that far from the Serbian border. We travelled on Saturday afternoon up the main road from Sofia to Pernik. The road is wide and cobbled with the tram line running parallel on the other side as you leave Sofia. Fortunately, our friend Joro chose to slip into another section which also runs parallel on our side, which wasn't cobbled, so it was a smoother ride.
In late afternoon we stopped at Breznik to buy fruit, veg, and beer which were really cheap. Then along empty roads passing wide open green spaces, and down to the house. The house had been snow bound all winter--the coldest and snowiest for fifty years.
But now in the bright sunshine, with crickets chirrupping and birds twittering, it was an idyllic spring scene. Above the soft green hills the moon was already rising as we prepared for another Bulgarian custom, that of outdoor cooking.
Outdoor cooking/barbecue...whatever you want to call it happens in Bulgaria throughout the spring and summer months and well into the autumn if it is warm enough, because of the dependable climate. If you travel around you will see most houses have a stone barbecue with a chimney built into it. Also usually a canopied eating area.
Our BBQ was started burning small pieces of wood which reduced to charcoal after a little while. Then green peppers were roasted, followed by meat and toasting the bread. We sat under the outdoor canopy in the garden. With plenty of salads, crusty bread, wine, beer, rakia and rock music on the stereo, it was while before I noticed it was getting quite chilly. No going indoors though....just a pullover first and then a coat and we were out there till about 2.00am.

It was here during many "cheers" (nasdravay) and glass chinking that a particular Bulgarian word was used repeatedly. I had heard this word many times during the previous week or so. It seems that this wonderful word underpins the whole Bulgarian language. It crops up in conversation it seems, every few minutes. or sometimes seconds or even microseconds.......at the end of phone calls, just before the end of phone calls, in the middle of phone calls, at the beginning of phone calls..... when you want someone to come with you, when someone is leaving, when someone is thinking about leaving, when they were thinking of leaving but are being persuaded to stay, when someone is leaving but they change their mind without any persuasion, when someone is not paying attention or daydreaming, when they are going for drinks, when they bring the drinks, when they want you to buy the drinks or it's your turn, when someone is arriving, on the phone before they arrive, when you are pleased to see them, when you want them to do something, when you don't want them to do something or do something else, when you say cheers, when you encourage, when you make a slightly slower movement than people are expecting, when you don't do what they thought you were going to do, when you are loading the car, when you are displaying enthusiasm, when you are unloading the car, especially when someone is waiting. I could go on.....I think ???? but I hope you get the picture.
The word is 'haide' pronounced 'chaide' with a 'hk' generally sounding like 'ider'. Sooo.... as the night grew darker and the moon and our eyes shone brighter, it was "ider nastravay" many times, until we could not stay awake any longer.

On Sunday morning we awoke to a shining blue sky and hot sun. After breakfast it was on with the hats, necessary under the strong sun, and time to plant this year's tomatoes. It felt good to work the land actually using tools I had only seen on tv from days past, except for the rotivator that is.
We planted several rows, and enjoyed an outdoor lunch. It was then time to leave the tranquil setting, so in the afternoon we made our way back to Sofia and to the apartment. Along the road in Gurlo we passed several Stork's nests perched on top of conveniently placed telegraph poles, convenient for the storks that is.
There is so much nature to enjoy all over Bulgaria. Where we were moving to, Rudartsi, is no exception.

Sofia again..... with time to reflect.

2013-01-22T13:54:00.001+02:00

So with just over a week before we moved in I continued to explore Sofia, take photos, drink beer, drink Rakia and get more used to the customs, especially the delicious food, and moreover, the completely non British way of eating it. I began to reflect on my hitherto experience of this new country.
As I have said on www.bulgariatravel.uk.com, I was fascinated by Bulgaria the first time I visited in March 2011. Not only did it look more 'foreign' when compared to other countries I had visited, it felt like it. Many times I have visited France, Greece and much of Europe. Yes, they are foreign countries to a Brit (or English as I prefer), but Bulgaria felt kind of alien, in the nicest possible way of course. The long ancient history, 500 years of Ottoman Rule, many years of being hidden behind the Iron Curtain and of course the Cyrillic Alphabet, in my view, had totally created a country so different from the rest of Europe. And nature has blessed it with astounding beauty that really must be seen.
My first visit was for the for the holiday of Baba Marta, the celebration of the coming of Spring on the 1st March, and the celebration of the ending of the Turkish Yoke in 1878 on the 3rd. Baba Marta is Grandmother Spring. Little red and white ties or figures called Martenitsi are pinned to friends' and relatives' lapels', whilst they are wished 'Chestita Baba Marta', or Happy Grandma Marta Day. The tradition, which dates back to Pagan times states that if Baba Marta is happy then the Spring weather will be pleasant. Also if you see a stork then the Martenitsa should be hung on a blossoming tree to wish fruitfulness. I love this custom!
Apart from experiencing Sofia which began with the fascinating Archaeological Museum, we visited friends in Yablanitsa, a mountain town in the Stara Planina and also the ancient city of Plovdiv, with its amazing colourful architecture, straight out of the world of fairy tales.
It was in Yablanitsa that I realised how different having a meal is here. For a start, unlike the UK there is little formality. It is usual to begin with a salad which is often accompanied by Rakia, the extremely potent spirit that is traditionally made all over Bulgaria, from just about anything such as grapes, apricots, plums etc. Another point here is that whereas Brits drink without eating most of the time, it is unusual for Bulgarians to drink Rakia or even beer without an accompanying salad or meze. Also it is noticeable that in the UK we serve separate courses usually in portions, but in Bulgaria, similar to Greece, everything else arrives on the table soon afterwards. It is a very leisurely dining process which can continue for hours and usually does.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Sofia.

By now I was getting used to the Bulgarian 'yes' and 'no', with the shaking of the head for 'yes' and nodding for 'no'. It was a little disconcerting to go into a bar and ask for a beer and get what I perceived to be 'no' when they meant 'yes', especially if it was not done with a smile. I got the feeling that the next thing that would happen would be a polite "bugger off", but it is completely the opposite of just about everywhere else.

Outside the Ivan Vazov Theatre, Sofia.

Yablanitsa

House of Alphonse de Lamartine, Plovdiv.

Old City, Nessebur.

Isthmus,Nessebur.

I also spent Christmas week 2011 in Sofia. Here I am in a snowy Loven Park. It was really nice to have a white Christmas and once again to enjoy interesting customs different from the UK. Vegetarian food and presents on Christmas Eve.

So to bring us back to my emigration, it was now only just over a week before moving to Rudartsi. Every day I would take the bus into Sofia to soak up the atmosphere and the sunshine, which was now very strong and hot.

On the following Thursday I was walking with my camera when I noticed a lady, brightly dressed in red and yellow, remonstrating with an Eastern Orthodox Priest. I don't know what her grievance was, but her manner made me avoid any contact. I failed, because as I crossed the next street we both converged. She began to shout at me too, in Bulgarian of course. I told her I was English and she continued in fluent English. She bawled that I had no right to be here...that I was a warmonger and Obama supporter. On the first point, I did not happen to have the Treaty of Rome, or any other European Treaty on my person for that matter, but the second points could be discussed, which I had no intention of doing !

I squeezed myself away from her flailing arms and went on my way in front of a group of smiling builders who had enjoyed the whole scene.

So there was proof that I had become an immigrant ! A strange experience, and it did cross my mind what really serious discrimination might be like. In reality, despite Sofia being the capital and duly possessing its anonymity, I must say I find the Bulgarian people the friendliest I have met and very sociable.

On the 2nd June we spent the weekend with two friends in the quiet village of Gurlo.

House Transfer

2013-01-02T12:04:00.004+02:00

After escaping from the heat of the minibus we continued to Sofia Central Bus Station and took the next bus to Pernik.
The process of transferring ownership of a house is very different from that in England. Instead of transactions completed by solicitors, the exchange taking place and the money being paid from bank to bank via the lawyer authorisation, it was much more of a physical step by step. First we met the former owners and the estate agent at the notary in Pernik. There then followed explanation of documents and triple signatures. This was all witnessed by an official interpreter and accompanied by coffee, water and biscuits.
It was only recently that non Bulgarian citizens were allowed to own land in the country. It was explained to me that as a foreigner I was only able to own one piece of land in Bulgaria. This of course prevents large scale foreign ownership in the country.
There then followed a walk to the bank where the monies were transferred. Then it was back to the notary to complete the documentation.
Without going into every detail, basically that was it.
Irina, the estate agent, (who had done so much work to make sure the deal went smoothly), Margarita and me then had lunch in the pedestrianised centre of Pernik, before returning to Sofia from Pernik Bus station.
My reserved stay at the Rotasar came to an end and I moved temporarily into Mihail and Velina's apartment in Dianabad, Sofia until we moved into the house on the 10th June. Summer had now kicked in and I felt somewhat conspicuous walking around dressed in winter boots and jeans.
I spent the next week travelling on the bus into Sofia, taking photos and generally getting used to the capital.

Sofia

2012-12-21T19:04:00.002+02:00

As I emerged daily from the Rotasar Hotel, to go for a coffee or to take photos, it still felt kind of strange to think I was now living here. I had become an immigrant !
The Rotasar is a modest hotel with friendly staff, situated just off the Tsarigradsko Chaussee Boulevard which sweeps down to the centre of Sofia.
On the Tuesday I set off with my camera to walk to Borrisova Gradina Park and Garden, also known as the Central Park, which was a delightful experience. Central Park stretches along the boulevard all the way into Sofia near the Eagle's Bridge.
The weather was brighter and sunnier, I soon became aware that I would need my summer clothes which were packed away in the garage in Rudartsi. This later necessitated buying a pair of light jeans. But there was still rain in the air as I walked into the welcome green away from the traffic. I spent some time is this lovely park, gradually making my way along the tree lined paths, passing what seemed like hundreds of interesting statues and sculptures, to the Ariana Lake at the far end near the National Stadium Vassil Levski. Of course this sojourn included a welcome Shumensko Beer in a leafy setting just outside the Bulgarian Army Stadium, the home of CSKA Sofia FC.
Here are some photos:-

On the 31st May from near the hotel I experienced my first ride in the shuttle buses that ply their trade throughout the city. It could have been a better experience. I am not very tall but I spent the whole of the ride doubled up and bent at an uncomfortable angle in a minibus which was getting hotter inside by the second. Margarita was smiling as my English stiff upper lip (which I don't really possess, at least I don't think so) was curling under my sweat ridden brow. These minibuses cram as many people in them as possible. It really was a relief to get off. But at 1 Lev for the trip maybe I should not have expected luxury. We were on our way to Pernik to sign for the house.

Jordan Arrives

2012-12-15T14:29:00.001+02:00

On the following Monday we arranged to meet Jordan at the house in Rudartsi. The weather was still wet which is somewhat unusual for the end of May. The owners had very kindly allowed us to store all the furniture etc. in the garage and even in part of the house. They were due to move out the following week. We had to arrange the final payment for the house and legal documentation, which would take place in Pernik at the Notary and Piraeus Bank later that week.
Mihail, Georgi, Mariujan and Genny gradually congregated at various places in Sofia, and after a beer off we went in Mihail's car to Rudarci.
Jordan arrived a short time later. I did admire his driving. He reversed the enormous juggernaut the whole length of our road with great precision and we began to unload. The photo below, taken from the hill behind the house shows part of Jordan's blue truck.
I only had one disappointment with Jordan in that he was tempted by the cider I had bought in England. He had finished five of the bottles on the way.
It took about two hours to unload and stack everything and Jordan went on his way. Then we sat down to coffee and chocolate with the owners outside on the terrace and I threw in a bottle of cider to give them a taste. I was surprised to learn that despite the masses of apples grown in Bulgaria each year they don't make cider. They import a small sweet variety but that is all.

We left the house in the late afternoon and went for the first time to the Mladost Restaurant in the centre of the village. There I had my first taste of Shkembe which is tripe. It reminded me of Lancashire where I used to eat tripe many years ago but cooked in a completely different way. There is also Shkembe soup which is accompanied by chili pepper seeds and garlic vinegar.
So after all the months of moving my things from home in Ewell to the storage and then the long trip to Bulgaria, the next stage had been completed. It was now back to stay in Sofia at the hotel for the next two days and then another week or so at Mihail's apartment before we finally moved in on 10th. June.

Shkembe Soup

One Way Ticket

2012-11-26T18:22:00.001+02:00

The earthquake hit at 3.00 am a strength of 5. 8 on the Richter Scale. Our estate agent went to see if our house was ok as soon as she could. Thankfully it was ! But in the area of Rudartsi and especially in Pernik, the local municipality there was much damage to chimneys with cracks in the walls of houses as well. People were nervously waiting, aware of the after shocks which always follow.
Meanwhile I was preparing my baggage for my one way ticket to Sofia. After a farewell drink with my friend Andy I went home to my room and collected my bags.
On Friday evening on the 25th May, I thankfully left my room in Epsom and made my way to Gatwick Airport. It was an early morning flight as usual with Easyjet. I prefer to stay in the departure lounge with a couple of beers or ciders, sandwiches and wait for the check in at about 4.00 am, rather than have a rushed start to the day trying to get to the airport.
I had heard on the mobile grapevine that Jordan was already in Hungary. We made a loose arrangement to meet him on the following Monday at our house where the truck would be unloaded.
I must say it did feel strange. I had visited Bulgaria a few times, I had stayed some months in Greece many years before, but this was different. Emigration and a new life, however long or short it may be.
In rainy weather we landed at Sofia just before midday.
I stayed at the Rotasar Hotel, where I had stayed on my first visit in March 2011.
After a brief rest it was off to Margarita's niece's graduation party.

In Limbo

2012-11-21T17:52:00.000+02:00

After I moved out of my house in Epsom in December 2011 I put my furniture in storage. This was an exhausting time. Two friends, Paul and Heidi helped me clear the house. I then visited Bulgaria for Christmas. What a relief it was to walk through snowy Loven Park, Sofia and to enjoy different customs at Christmas time, especially the food. A really welcome break.
Soon after I moved into a bedsit in Epsom. After living in my house, it felt like I had incarcerated myself but there was no point in renting anything bigger. With the cost of the storage mounting, I was eager for us to find a house or an apartment as soon as possible, but the weather in Bulgaria during the winter was the coldest and snowiest for fifty years. This limbo situation lasted until we eventually found a house.
As I said, the aim was to find a property near to Sofia, but prices are higher in this area. Good transport connections to Sofia were imperative. There are a lot of houses for sale which are cheap but off the beaten track. Access in the snowy winter is an important consideration especially in the hilly areas, and there are a lot of them, believe me. Many British people buy apartments at the Black Sea, in ski resorts such as Bansko, or in villages. But although the exceptionally low prices in the villages are very tempting, there may be no one living in the village in winter. If you don't use your property all year round, you might find that your house has been emptied by burglars when you return., or even more, the roof might have been removed as well.
There were also accessible houses at bargain prices but all with drawbacks. For example we found a house in Zhelyava which is north of Sofia. It was advertised at €26.000 or around £20.000 but there was no water. Some houses had not been lived in for some time and had damp and structural problems. I must say here that I think the best time to look for houses here is in winter, because anything that is wrong with the house, such as a leaking roof or damp will show up then. In summer the hot weather is likely to mask any inherent problem.
After two months of severe weather, with Margarita spending hours and hours of searching and seeing properties at weekends it was obvious that we had to specify an area which had all that we needed. We also decided to look at more expensive houses. We decided to concentrate on a lovely area south of the Vitosha mountain called Rudartsi which, as well as being a very nice area, has good bus connections to Sofia.
After yet more careful looking Margarita found an ideal house in an ideal situation on a quiet back street near the centre. I said "careful looking" because, notwithstanding its beauty, there are areas here which are at risk from landslip. And when I say street, it is not like an English street, it is a dusty gravel lane.
Meanwhile I was trying to arrange for my furniture etc to be transported to Bulgaria. This can cost up to £2000. After a few quotes Margarita came to the rescue by finding a juggernaut that was in England which was only part loaded and which was on its way back to Bulgaria. On 22nd. May the truck arrived in Ewell and the driver Jordan, once again my friend Paul and me emptied the storage unit. Because Margarita and I like cider I asked Jordan to call at the shop in Stoneleigh Broadway. I duly bought nine bottles. A few minutes later Jordan drove off to Europe. It was now only a few days to my flight on 26th May. I hoped to meet him some days later with everything intact. That night there was an earthquake...the epicentre was near Rudartsi !!!

Change of Circumstances

2012-11-20T11:07:00.001+02:00

To move onto the personal side of things, in 2010 our marriage finally broke up. I do not intend to go into detail. Suffice to say that I took over our house in Epsom and my wife moved out. My daughter lived with me for some months, then she left to live in Hertfordshire and open a business.
So there I was feeling disillusioned with this country and I was living alone in a considerably sized house. We were in the middle of yet another recession, this one caused by the irresponsible banks. As an aside here I have always wondered why we were not told of the recession in 2007 when it had already begun, instead of waiting for the official definition of recession, that is two quarters of negative economic growth, when it was too late to remedy, one year later.
It was getting harder than ever to make a decent living. It was also made worse for the reasons I mention in my recent posts. The usual rubbish was being spouted by the government about working together to overcome this latest downturn, with austerity measures necessary to get the country back on track and swingeing cuts in services all over the country. All that really happened is that the banks got away with it and many people now have to work beyond their expected retirement age to pay for the banks' mistakes and greed. I will just say here that the war in Afghanistan has cost the UK public £12 million per day for the since its beginning in 2001 !

Later in 2010 I met a Bulgarian lady, Margarita who lived in Sofia, the capital. I visited Bulgaria for the first time in March 2011 and our relationship developed. Margarita visited England in April 2011. She had never been to England before and I found her observations interesting. We considered moving to a house together somewhere not too far from London, possibly near my daughter. In the following June I was invited to a wedding in Sliven, a city in the east of Bulgaria. Prior to that we visited the beautiful old city of Nessebur on the Black Sea coast for a couple of days. Then we took the bus to Sliven. The following day Margarita, Mihail, her son, his girlfriend Velina and myself took a very interesting train journey back to Sofia. The wedding was an amazing experience of which I shall post more in due course, along with all of my early experiences here.
I was beginning to realise that I really liked this new country of Bulgaria. Margarita and I had further discussed her moving to England but our opinions changed when it became a real possibility that I could sell my house and move to Bulgaria instead. In England all of the proceeds from my house would have been swallowed up buying a new house and then it would have meant working long hours virtually every day once again. Also there was the prospect of Margarita finding work in England. Did we really want all this ?? No, we didn't ! In Bulgaria property prices are very low by London standards and the cost of living is probably about one quarter that of England.
In August 2011 I put my house on the market. I was surprised that it sold fairly quickly, given the economic climate. However my buyers were not able to move in until December 2011. This gave us time to look for properties in the Sofia area or maybe a little farther away. The quest for the right property took a considerable time.
From around October 2011 via the internet, on Skype and Facebook we discussed what we had viewed in many locations and their viability regarding Margarita's work. It made obvious sense that I had to leave it to Margarita to search for properties. Then the Bulgarian winter set in.

CCTV and London

2012-11-19T13:16:00.000+02:00

Continuing from my www.wheots.blogspot.com I now come to what I see as the sinister aspect of the cctv surveillance on London's streets which affects everyone who drives there. However I shall stick to my personal view as a Taxi Driver.
The London Taxi Trade has been a major part of the transport throughout the capital for over three hundred years, yet the Taxi Trade has been included in what I call the daily extortion of money from drivers by the authorities. Yes, I accept that we have been exempted from paying the Congestion Charge, allowed access to most bus lanes and we can park in certain places free of charge. However during a day's work, especially working for one of the radio circuits, it is necessary to park outside the building and wait for the passenger. Particularly important is this also, when collecting passengers who are entitled to subsidised transport via the Taxicard scheme, because of serious illness or disability. In addition, in case anyone does not know, a taxi actually picks up people from the street and sets them down at their required destination. That means where the passenger wants to get out. All of these services to the public have been targeted by the authorities to take as much money as possible from the Taxi Driver. Without going into great detail here is a summary :-

Cameras have been placed on Red Routes and No Loading areas to fine drivers setting down passengers there. This happens even in the middle of the night when there is no obstruction likely. As I said you set down where the passenger wants to alight, not two miles down the road.
Fines for stopping in a bus lane to pick up passengers.
Two minute time limits have been imposed to set passengers down even though this contravenes Hackney Carriage Law.
Traffic Wardens, now Private Parking Attendants harass drivers if they need to use a nearby toilet, issuing a parking ticket. This disrespect is deplorable. Of course it is mutual as a result.
Camden Council and the City of Westminster also use smart cars equipped with mobile cameras, with blacked out windows to spy on drivers going about their work.
Then of course there was the fiasco of the Olympic Lanes. Rather than using the iconic London Taxi as a positive example of the capital, Taxis were sidelined to ordinary traffic and threatened with a £130 fine.

If you receive a PCN (penalty charge notice) which has been generated by a camera it states on the form that the offence was recorded not by a person but by Observer Number ...whatever.....
The fact that unnamed observers are peering at everyone one who drives from the authorities' control rooms just waiting to capture someone who has transgressed the traffic rules or parking rules and then issuing them with a hefty fine I find disgusting. I also find it disgusting that these systems have been allowed to have been put into place in such a country as the UK, a country in which freedoms are gradually being eroded on the apparent suspicion that we are all potential terrorists or criminals.

To finish this subject I will mention one occasion when the City of London issued me with a PCN which I found deplorable. I received a job allocation to collect a disabled passenger from Old Broad Street in the City. As I said before, for a Taxicard passenger you need to 'at the door' when they come out of the building. You don't know if the person cannot walk or if they have a bad heart or whatever. You can't ride around the block and come back later.This might cause problems. So, on this occasion I had to wait 15 minutes before the lady came down. I had received a message earlier that she was on her way. It turned out she had multiple sclerosis and walked with a stick. I duly completed the job. Some days later I received a PCN stating that I had parked illegally. I had been observed by number blah blah who was operating the camera at the end of a street nearby called Austin Friars. As it was a radio allocated job the circuit usually pays the fine but because of the circumstances: the fact it was a Taxicard job and the passenger had been issued her card by the Borough of Southwark, I decided to appeal. I provided all the details of the circumstances. The appeal was refused. I could not believe that the City of London would want to make money as a result of the disabled scheme ! They pride themselves on the social righteousness of the Taxicard scheme and fine the driver for collecting the passenger. Words fail me !!! The person in charge at the time was Mr.J. Perreira.

Restlessness and Dissillusion 2

2012-11-01T22:24:00.000+02:00

So, after several weeks of deliberating and being busy doing other things, I finally traced the origin of my dissatisfaction with the wonderful country known as the UK. It was early one August morning in 2003. At around 5.o'clock I had just returned from a trip to what is known as 'deepest Surrey'. For those outsiders in the provinces,this is the land that lies to the south of Dorking. In the early hours... in the blackness of single track roads, this land possesses a mysterious character that, despite its proximity to London, seems at least a world and a half away. Behind the darkened windows of detached houses city bankers are slumbering before their daily onslaught on the financial markets.
I was sitting, parked near Raynes Park Station SW20, just as the first light began to fill the air. I had been up and working since 3.15 a.m., when it suddenly came to me that I might be doing this for another 13 years until retirement age, should I live that long.

Business was good in those days. We were in between recessions and buoyancy was bubbling through the City and the country. On this morning though, in the manner of those thoughts that come to us when we wake in the middle of the night, which consume our mind until we might fall asleep again, then wake up too late, I began to muse over the creeping control coupled with the ineptitude, that in my view had become to smother London.
The London Taxi Trade is known world wide for its excellence. It has been in existence since 1654 when Oliver Cromwell instigated the beginnings of 'The Knowledge'. I 'got out' as they say...no not prison...I received my licence after passing 'The Knowledge' in 1984 and became a tour guide many years later. Just before 'day one' I was already aware that there was a constant battle in progress between the trade, its representatives, the authorities and interested parties.
Transport for London was inaugurated in 2000 and later took over the administration of the Taxi Trade from the Public Carriage Office. This opened a platform for all the opposers of the the Taxi Trade, who were fired by self interest for a bigger slice of the London Transport business to lobby Tfl and many of the local authorities (particularly the City of Westminster). Minicabs were licensed in due course, quite rightly for the safety of the public and I believe that overall Tfl do a good job. The more controversial aspects of their administration I shall discuss next time. Just to mention one failing however by Tfl and the City authorities, is to have allowed the presence of Pedicabs on the streets which are certainly a danger to anyone who rides in them. The usual pussyfooting around by the authorities is typical. This has continued to the extent that pedicabs have been literally peddling their illegal trade 1998 and they are still on the streets. They now have a very large foot in the door thanks to the weakness of those such as the City of Westminster and the Borough of Camden. Of course if they are ever licensed, it will be then that they will face the wrath of control. Wouldn't it have been better to rid the city of these things before they became common place?
I have always though had a bone to pick with those who sit in ivory towers, who have job security, a salary at the end of the month, paid holidays and pensions paid for by us. They just do not know what it is to strive to maintain a profession. Yes, it is the individual's choice whether to attempt to become a London Taxi Driver, but why should there be attacks on the trade as I have witnessed for many years ? Those in authority are sitting pretty in my view and I have little respect for their inherent, haughty attitude.They also forget that they work for us ! Unfortunately they also seem to be unaware that they could be viewed as compromising themselves by not acting in the obvious proper manner from the beginning.
So.... a few more things to air. Political Correctness has infiltrated London to a ridiculous level. Another name for it is Positive Discrimation. I have always believed in a Meritocracy. The London Taxi Trade is open to anyone, if they have the competence to complete 'The Knowledge' and pass a stringent driving test. It is traditionally self funded. Some years ago Ken Livingstone, the former Mayor of London instigated easier opportunities for ethnic minorities and women to become LondonTaxi Drivers by funding, which included providing applicants with the moped or scooter, the traditional way to learn the London streets. In other words a completely unfair practice which not only angered just about everyone in the Taxi Trade especially the ethnics and women who had previously qualified by their own effort and finance. They also saw it as an insult to whatever were their ethnic origins; as though by birth they were deemed to be incapable of achievement. It was discussed at length on LBC Radio at the time.
All this came on top of what was known as a watering down of The Knowledge so that it was easier to pass. Computer tests were devised and the number of 'Knowledge Runs' or routes was reduced. Reducing necessary effort and messing about with tried, trusted and respected disciplines has done nothing for the Taxi Trade's respect.I find it typical of the UK today. One example being the school examination system, but that is another story. Passengers have remarked that since these changes it has been noticeable that Licensed Drivers are now using satnavs in the cabs. I was told more than once that at least I knew where I was going whilst newer drivers did not.
I hope that this does not sound like me griping. What I have said already underpins a further dissatisfaction which I find more sinister and totally against the UK way of life. To be continued..............

Restlessness and Dissillusion 1

2012-10-04T16:38:00.001+03:00

When the drudgery and habit of daily life gets on top of us, as it does to everyone at some point in time, we generally complain. Some people fall into the rut of complaining endlessly. Almost professional pessimists, the verbal tirades usually continue every time you meet them. That is if you can stand regular socialising with Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms doom and gloom. I should know, because for many years I was part of the otherwise jovial band of conversational cavaliers known as the London Taxi Trade. For some reason a large slice of negativity has embedded itself into this respected profession. By the way I am not intending to trivialise serious life events which give just reason for sadness and or depression. I am concerned with the subject of 'if you don't like it then do something about it'.
Of course it is not necessarily easy to change your life in a major way. Family matters are very important and we are often seriously prevented from 'moving on'. It is just not on! However many people do take the bull by the horns and just do it. Many make a positive change of career often brought on by redundancy for example. My circumstances opened up a door for a complete change and I decided to emigrate. I always try to be as brief as possible. So from hereon is the story of my decision to move to Bulgaria.