Living in Seychelles

A Seychellois Definition of Antique

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:03:00 +0000

Many might know that the Seychelles have been populated since the end of the 18th century. And craftsmen built some beautiful furniture in those days. Not much of it is around anymore (and the few items that are, are firmly in the hands of the families who originally commissioned them), so I was really excited to see an ad on Seybay boldly entitled "Antique Furniture". Fingers trembling with excitement, I clicked on the advertisement.

Some excerpts from the rather long ad (emphasis is mine):

"The entire set which dates back to the year 1980 is a classic example of the kind of contemporary furniture that our new breed of Seychellois carpenters can produce. It demonstrates the artisanal craftsmanship of modern Seychellois carpentry which has retained some charming features of the traditional creole furniture like is evident in the carved ‘twist turned’ legs of the easy chairs and the sofa."
(In other words, the usual ugly and uncomfortable stuff that is on the market these days.)

"The prospective buyer will certainly be the lucky owner of a valuable and precious set of almost fin de siècle and 21st century creole furniture that has already known over a decade of history."

Hmm... I was born in 1962. Am I fin de siècle or would I be considered antediluvian?

WW: Mare Anglaise

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 04:43:00 +0000

WW: Anse St. Sauveur Praslin

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Wed, 27 Aug 2008 04:27:00 +0000

Back With a Vengeance

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 12:32:00 +0000

Well, I'm finally online again.

I visited Intelvision a couple of days before I moved and they assured me that I would be online within a week. I was pleasantly surprised, as things don't usually move that quickly over here. I paid in advance for both the reallocation and the monthly internet fee.

Then I went about my moving and waited.

And waited.

And waited.

Finally, I phoned up Customer Service. The not so charming young woman at the end of the phone line informed me brusquely that Intelvision was currently doing a promotion and that I wasn't even scheduled for the reallocation. She told me that I would have to wait over two months.

I called again and got another Customer Service Rep (I asked for her by name as I had had a good experience with her previously.). Upon explaining that I didn't quite understand why an existing customer wouldn't be on the list for installation and asking (politely) why they didn't hire extra technicians to cope with their promotion, she very charmingly promised to "do something" and promised to call me back.

I waited again.

After four days, I phoned again and asked to speak to the second Rep. Strangely, she had no recollection of our phone conversation, but once again promised to do her best. She also promised to call me back the same day.

I waited again.

Five days later, my patience running a little thin, I called and demanded (still politely) to speak to the Head of Customer Service. The operator gave me the direct line of the second woman I had spoken to. I asked if she was the Head and was told "no, but she can help you". Not believing this any more, I became rather strident. Whereupon I was told that the Head of Customer Service was unavailable and not due to return to the office that day. I became even more strident and threatened to come down to the office to make a scene.

Amazingly, it turned out that Mr. Reza was in the office after all and dripping treacle in his efforts to placate me. He promised to phone back within 5 minutes.

And, hey presto, he actually did. And I was online within three days.

Moral of the story: Never pfaff about with underlings. And a little bit of intimidation will take you further that being nice and polite.

WW: Praslin from Boat

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Wed, 20 Aug 2008 04:14:00 +0000

WW: Beau Vallon - Local's Side of Beach

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Wed, 13 Aug 2008 04:59:00 +0000

WW: Red Sky over Silhouette

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 04:45:00 +0000

WW: Good Day at Black Rock - Fisherman's Cove

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 04:36:00 +0000

photo by Alexandra Jakob

Don't Have to Set Up a Tent After All!

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:46:00 +0000

After looking for a place to rent for over three months, I've finally found a house. As usual, it was pretty last minute with one and a half weeks to go before my moving out date.

But what a house! Yes, I am paying a fortune for it (and, of course, some of it in Euros), but it is huge. I am now the proud to-be-renter of a "villa" with 4-bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, 2 living rooms, a study and an atelier. I've never had so much space in my life and I'm sharing it with only my two kids. I fear we'll be wandering the halls like lost souls in space. My daughter is worried about my son and I being lonely next year when she'll leaves to study abroad and says that I need to find a man by then. It's a novel idea; get a man to fill a house ...

The atelier is ideal, because I've long wanted space to do Reiki and other "spiritual life coaching" in and now I no longer have any excuse to put it off. So apart from the excitement of moving, I'm also getting worked up about the business I'll be starting.

There is no internet connection in the house, so I might be offline for a couple of weeks until Intelvision sets up my connection. I have pre-posted the Wordless Wednesdays and hope to post something inbetween from the internet cafe.

That's if I ever come down the hill. My only regret is that I'll be leaving Bel Ombre and moving to Glacis. Visto Do Mar Estate is a pretty swanky area, but I shall miss the atmosphere of Bel Ombre and the proximity to the beach.

Thank you to all my well-wishers; I am sure the "good vibes" really helped.

Off to new shores! Or hills, as that may be ...

Ingrid Betancourt Swaps One Jungle for Another

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 18:00:00 +0000

It seems everybody who is somebody feels the need to visit Seychelles at some point or another. We've had Brad Pitt, Prince William and maybe even Jim Morrison gracing our shores with their luminance.

Now, Ingrid Betancourt is on a (much-needed I'm sure) holiday here after her 6 year ordeal in the Colombian jungle. It turns out that she lived here for two years in the early Eighties and had the dubious pleasure of giving birth to one of her children in Victoria Hospital. And, according to this article, even indulged in a spot of wet-nursing whilst here.

Sarcasm aside, I truly wish the poor woman has a good holiday here with her kids. If anyone needs the peace of Seychelles, she does.

Who next, I wonder? Obama? He seems to be as keen on indulging his wanderlust as the last Pope...

WW: Red Granite on Tiny Beach at Anse La Blague, Praslin

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 21:29:00 +0000

7 Facts About Me Meme

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 09:39:00 +0000

Ana at Chica and Pumuckl tagged me for a meme, so here goes:

Here are the rules:
1. List these rules on your blog.
2. Share 7 facts about yourself on your blog.
3. Tag 7 people at the end of your post by leaving their names as well as links to their blogs.

I will do all sorts of DIY home improvements, but refuse to use power tools. That's what brothers and boyfriends are for ...
In 2005, I finally visited Venice. I stopped short at taking a singing gondola, but otherwise it was everything I had imagined.
I love Bollywood movies. Whenever I'm feeling a bit low, I'll watch a Shah Rukh Khan DVD and my heart starts soaring again.
I grew up with loving parents, good feedback at school and plenty of friends. Yet I thought I was bad and the black sheep of the family. Can there be too much positive feedback?
I didn't know unicorns were mythical creatures until I was 23. I just thought they were extinct. Still not sure ...
Many people have said I am like: Liza Minelli, Sophia Loren, Fran Drescher and Barbara Streisand. I'm still trying to see the common thread ???
Although my housewifely skills are on the low side, I enjoy hanging up clothes. I find it quite relaxing.

I'm tagging Coffee Tickle, A Grateful Heart, Coffee, Coffee, Coffee, An American in France, Hello Mother, Hello Father, The Clamor of Kalinga and Spirituality Guru.

Desperately Seeking Rental Accommodation

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 23:03:00 +0000

Just like many others on this island, I'm looking for a house or flat to rent in the north of Mahé.

My landlord is tearing the house down in the beginning of August so that he can build executive flats to rent out in Euros. There is hardly an owner on the island these days who is willing to rent out in Seychelles Rupees. This is largely thanks to the developers of Eden Island and some of the new luxury hotels who are more than happy to shell out their foreign exchange to accommodate their staff.

What, I wonder, will happen when these people finish building their own houses (as is planned)? The bubble is bound to burst then and all these renters will be stuck with their over-priced apartments and houses.

I put an ad on Seybay, our local online classifieds site and got a phone call from someone today who is renting out a 3-bedroom flat in Beau Vallon for Euros 1000. On the black market (which is how everbody calculates these days) that is SR 20'000. I could manage Euros 500 if pushed, but even that is a ridiculous amount.

Two years ago, you could get a nice 3-bedroom house in North Mahé for SR 6000 per month. That's bad enough considering that the average wage here is SR 3'500 a month. This is why most single people stay with their parents until well into their 30s.

Sleeping on the beach is dangerous these days, so I don't even have that option.

I live in hope of a miracle...

WW: Sauzier Waterfall at Port Glaud

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 23:52:00 +0000

photo by Alexandra Jakob

New Online Community for Seychellois and Friends

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:34:00 +0000

I found this site a few days ago and just signed up. It's still in beta, so it's too early to tell whether it will take off and how many people are actually going to participate. So far, 11 male members (sic) and 27 female members have signed up.

This is their tagline: Join our online community for both Seychellois and international friends of the Seychelles! Fill in your profile, upload photos, discuss, buy, sell and / or trade items in our Forum, chat and more!

And this is from their FAQ: Do people actually meet on your site? Do they ever get married? Thousands of people meet on our site daily and go on to date and start relationships. We've also had hundreds of marriages across many borders. To see for yourself, check the site for real stories of real connections.

Umm, thousands out of the 11 guys and 27 gals?

The confirmation email upon registration is not immediate. I'm still waiting for it. Still, the slowness gives it that certain Seychellois touch...

Sunset Video from Beau Vallon Beach

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Thu, 10 Jul 2008 21:09:00 +0000

The sunset is like that practically every day here, yet I can never get enough. This one's for all you guys out there who don't get to see it daily.

Wish I could swim that fast...

WW: Sunset at Fisherman's Cove with Clouds over Silhouette Island

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 20:29:00 +0000

Jim Morrison Alive and Kicking in the Seychelles?

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Mon, 07 Jul 2008 07:49:00 +0000

The Daily Mail interviewed the Doors keyboard player Ray Manzarek and this is what he had to say: 'I often wonder if his death has been an elaborate charade,' and 'Jim was a restless soul, always looking for something else in life, and even six years of success - and excess - with The Doors hadn't been enough for him. A year earlier, he had shown me a brochure for the Seychelles and said: "Wouldn't this be the perfect place to escape to if everyone believed you were dead?'

I'll keep my eyes peeled for an old doped up white guy. It would help if I had one of those nifty FBI aging programmes.

If you're reading this Jim, get in touch. It would be a gas to hang out at your pad. Far out, man. Groovy, baby.

Maybe Elvis is here, too...

The Coral Strand Hotel is Open Again - Sort of...

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Sun, 06 Jul 2008 10:27:00 +0000

Contrary to everybody's expectations, the Coral Strand reopened as planned on 1st July. It's not open to the public yet and they have a total of 2 hotel guests. Some staff are working and the small kitchen is open to cater for the lonely guests. I don't envy them at all. Imagine going on holiday to a place touted as paradise and having to live in a hotel where the renovations are still ongoing.

So many people have come to this blog searching for information on what is happening at the Coral Strand this week, that I felt I had to do my duty. Intrepid reporter that I am, I snuck up this afternoon to take some pictures.

This is the front entrance of the newly 4-star rated hotel. The rooms are still as tiny as ever, far too small for a 4-star. And what is that thing on the left? A gatehouse of sorts to keep all us plebians out?

I can't see that anything has been changed at the bistro, except that it's obviously closed. No lunch or tea whilst gazing at the sea for the hotel guests.

Nor any lounging around the pool, unless the highlight of the holiday is watching the builders doing whatever it is they're doing.

I suppose the guests could always sit in this weird pavillion thingy whilst watching the labourers. Wonder why they replaced the lovely thatched roof with this circus tent and chairs reminiscent of the 1970s?

Is this one of the lonely guests? I took this picture during what are usually happy hours at the Coral Strand, so perhaps it's just some lost soul looking for a beer and a bit of cheer at the still closed pool bar. No joy for him, either way...

I feel really sorry for those poor guests. The management was very shortsighted in thinking the renovations would be done in two months (everybody told them it wasn't going to be possible in the Seychelles), but I reckon they were too greedy to pass up on the few bucks they could make. It's sheer irresponsible to take in clients and charge them the newly hefty prices for a lousy holiday. They should have moved them to another hotel and paid the difference.

I wonder how many other poor suckers are arriving this week for their holiday in hell...

Food Crisis? It's Napa Land here all the way.

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Thu, 03 Jul 2008 08:43:00 +0000

Many might say we've long had a food crisis in Seychelles. Called Napa Land (the land of nothing, after the usual reply of shopkeepers to enquiries of the availability of goods), the islands have long been lacking basic foodstuffs and commodities.

In some ways, things have improved. We now have Docklands Supermarket, which imports goodies like French cheese, chorizo and even, occasionally, Toblerone. I dream that, one day, they might even have Lindt or Caillier chocolate.

Meanwhile, to satisfy my cravings for chocolate, I buy South African Cadbury's chocolate at Supersave. Supersave is a total misnomer; far from saving any money, I walk out of there clutching my rotisserie chicken and loaf of brown bread, reeling with shock. As for the produce: does anybody really buy those overpriced vegetables that look frighteningly genetically modified?

What has become worse now is not so much the availability of food (which has been a problem since as far back as I can remember), but the prices. Yes, it's bad all over the world, but here in the Seychelles, the Rupee has been devalued as well. I don't know how a waitress earning the (new) minimum wage of Rs 2500 and bringing up two kids on her own as well survives. Hell, I don't know how I am surviving...

The government now says it will focus more on developing agriculture in the country. It's high time; Seychelles should be producing enough vegetables to feed the population instead of having to import the .

As an anarchist (ok, in these time maybe Libertarian) , I think Seychellois shouldn't wait around for the government to do something, but should get off our butts and do something ourselves. There doesn't seem to be a point to waiting for higher ups to solve our problems; we would be waiting until we're blue in the face. I wish somebody would take up on this business idea for homegrown vegetables I came across today. A company in San Francisco will install an organic vegetable garden in a customer's back yard. Customers choose whether to produce just enough for their own family or whether to become owner-members producing enough for the company to sell as well. Either way, once the garden's in, the company will maintain it using organic and permaculture techniques.

It's something that would work here, as most people have their own gardens. And organic sounds good to me; produce here is not just fertilised, but heavily over-fertilised.

I can't do it; I have black thumbs. Anyone?

WW: Pensive Beach Babe (aka my daughter)

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 04:11:00 +0000

Night Lights of Cities around the World

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Sat, 28 Jun 2008 19:35:00 +0000

I got this in my email today. Enjoy.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Singapore

London, England

Niagra Falls, U.S.A.

Paris, France

Victoria, Seychelles

Too often true, thanks to all the power cuts ...

WW: Fan Flower Bush on Beau Vallon Beach

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Wed, 25 Jun 2008 09:32:00 +0000

photo by Alexandra Jakob

The Tourist Police Strike Again!

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Sun, 22 Jun 2008 16:14:00 +0000

Once again, the recently formed Tourist Police were able to prevent a major crime from occurring in the Seychelles...

A friend of mine was on the beach at Beau Vallon earlier today. She has two daughters under the age of ten who were playing, as children are wont to do, with a small ball. They were stopped from their harmless tossing the ball to each other by two ladies from the new Tourist Police. Granted, they apologized for having to stop the children from playing. They were only doing their duty and were being watched by another Tourist Police Officer who cruises around in a car making sure the cops are doing their duty. (Sound familiar? Shades of 1939? 1984? Or, more locally, 1983?) It seems it's now against the law to play any kind of ball on the beach. The officers were a little unsure upon being questioned if it was allowed to play frisbee. One said yes, the other said no. But then again, neither of them knew what a frisbee was.

This incident didn't even occur in front of a hotel, but a good kilometer down the beach on the "local side" by the pizzeria.

A couple of other kids I know were stopped from kicking a football around on the beach, and the local evening football games which are a Seychellois tradition have been stopped. Even tourists aren't allowed to play ball anymore. I haven't really seen any tourist being stopped, but there aren't many tourists here now. Let's see what happens when the "hordes" arrive with their children in July.

This tourist certainly wasn't stopped from camping even though she describes two Tourist Police Officers being around. "The funniest part about the whole trip was the
strange reactions we received when telling the local people we were
camping. Apparently people don't really camp in the Seychelles." That's because they aren't allowed to. Camping is, and has been for a long time, illegal in the Seychelles.

Well-behaved dogs with collars and in company of their owners are no longer allowed on the beach without a leash. The owners are told to leave the beach or face penalties. (I was with a friend a couple of months ago, when we were very rudely told off by a couple of officers puffed up with self-importance.) The beach dogs that hang around the hotels and actually harass tourists are left to their own devices. They, it would seem, are not a problem.

Basically, the idea of a tourist police patrolling the beaches is not a bad idea. Seychelles is not as free of crime as it once was and there have been a few incidents of bags being stolen off the beach and even a couple of muggings. Here's a happy story where the criminal was caught and the bag returned to the tourist a day later.

I just wish they'd concentrate on turning Seychelles into a crime-free haven and not a fun-free haven.

National Day Came and Went Without a Boom

noreply@blogger.com (island wench) — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 09:14:00 +0000

According to the Nation: A large crowd attended a military parade yesterday at Stad Linite that was part of activities to mark the 15th National Day celebrations.

I wasn't part of that large crowd. I abhor the pomp of military parades and brass band music, which were the major offerings of the day. Even deep down inside, I feel no atavistic urges to start twirling a baton to the tune of a trumpet.

I didn't attend the street party the evening before either. Drunken roisterers spoiling for a fight and pissing all over the place without paying any attention to passersby are not my thang at all. I worry about their aim in their intoxicated state and have no wish to be anywhere near.

The weather was so miserable that I stayed at home for most of the day anyway. I did venture out in the late afternoon for a drive around town to view the new monument to commemorate the 15th National Day.

Ohmigod, it's a flagpole. I am suitably impressed ...