A friend of mine who lives in this area of Kacyiru put me onto this little gem tucked away on a dirt road down the hill from the US Embassy. The area is full of local bars but this one stands out for being just a bit further out of the way and just a bit nicer than the rest.

The leafy garden, the balcony with a view of town and the fact that a guy comes out with a bucket and water for you to wash your hands in put this place just a cut above. But the plastic chairs and Primus table cloths remind you that you’re still in a local place and in store for warmish beer, yummy Rwandan food and some football on the TV if there’s a game on.

Though slightly fancy, Charite Restaurant still manages to be cheap, even for a local place. Our Fantas cost Rwf 500, boiled bananas (we asked them to be grilled but got boiled ones… so maybe try to be clear on this. I guess learning the words is the smart approach but I think it’d be more fun to attempt to mime ‘grilled banana’) cost Rwf 100 each, ibiraye (grilled potato halves) cost Rwf 200 for a whole potato, a 1/2 kilo of akabenz (pork) cost Rwf 1,500 and goat brochettes are Rwf 500 each.

The pork was good but had some super chewy bits which, I guess, is to be expected. The brochettes we had were pretty average and more overdone than in most places in Kigali. And that’s saying a lot because every local place I go to cooks their brochettes into oblivion. This places takes it just a little step further and makes sure each goat morsel has shriveled up into a tiny, charred piece of meat.

The best part of the meal was the ibiraye… probably the best I’ve had in the city. Buy a glob of mayo for Rwf 500 and add a bit of pilipili to it for a spicy dip. Crunchy potatoes and pilipili mayo… true happiness! Unless you hate mayo and that, of course, makes you a freak and your happiness levels are irrelevant in our eyes.

The view from the fancy balcony is back to Kigali City Tower and that part of town. While it’s nice during the day, I’m told it makes a great spot at night looking back at the city lights. Maybe a nice date place for those of us who prefer meat on a stick or a plate of pork to a three course meal or for those of us who are a little low in the cash department.

All up I liked it and would love to come back at night (when we’re not the only people there) for some beers on the balcony and a bit more atmosphere.

What: Contemporary Art Exhibition
When: 26th – 27th of May 2012 from 1pm to 6pm
Where: Sunset Villas, Kibagabaga, Kigali
Cost: Free

Gilles was born in Geneva, Switzerland, he left home at the age of 18 for his first trip. A trip that turned into a lifestyle. A permanent quest of discovery, of differences, of arts, of nomadism. He has been living in Kigali for a year and he teaches art and design at Green Hills Academy. This weekend he is exhibiting his recent work. You’ll see experimental videos, interactive sculptures, paintings and some photographics.

“Bliss of the Unknown” will take you into the unknown you maybe fear, the unknown you often ignore.

His work evolves rather than being contrived. A work which involves depth and that you may find intriguing…

Gilles is a colleague of a friend of mine who I met while checking out the Green Hills art exhibition last month. As well as teaching, he’s been working on his own projects which you can see at his upcoming exhibition this weekend. Download his flyer for more info.

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I am an art teacher and an contemporary artist. I work mainly with video but also explore other ways of expression and production such as interactive sculpture, painting or installation. I grow up in Geneva, Switzerland but left 15 years ago. My name is Gilles Dusabe and I consider myself an nomad.

When did you come to Rwanda and what brought you here?

I am married to a Rwandese woman and we decide to come back a year ago to her homeland after many years abroad. This decision to live in Kigali was a logical choice for both of us.

What sort of work are you doing in Rwanda?

I have been working as the Art and Design teacher of Green Hills Academy for one year. This department is providing students the chance to explore many mediums such painting, architecture, photography, sculpture, different designs and others. As well as teaching, I am producing art at my studio in Kanombe.

How has your experience been so far teaching in Rwanda?

The experience of teaching here has been so far total bliss. To see each day the emancipation of youngsters at Green Hills is my driving force as an art teacher. It is a great challenge and is amazing to see young people express their visions, emotions, hope, desire and their ideals. The students have depth and are so open to new perspectives and new mediums.

How important are the arts in Rwandan schools?

I think more and more. I got great support lately from my director to develop the art department into one of the best in East Africa and hopefully soon in Africa.

Do you feel like parents see the arts as an important part of the school curriculum?

More efforts should be given to informing parents about the importance of creativity in the development of young people. Misunderstanding and ignorance could lead to the perception of arts as an amusement or a entertainment instead of as a way of reflecting and understanding yourself and your identity.

You held an art show recently displaying your student’s work. What sort of reaction did that get?

The feedback of the student’s work was fantastic proving, again, the high interest to the arts in Kigali. People were surprised by the range of mediums displayed at the show.

Is there a place for fine arts students in Rwanda or will they need to go abroad to pursue work opportunities?

The Art Department in Butare University seems the only Fine Arts undergraduate program. KIST seems more focused on various design and architecture courses and the Kwetu Film Institute has film-related programs. So yes students can continue their creative development in the country without going abroad.

Are you involved much in the arts scene in Rwanda?

As someone pretty new in Kigali, I am starting to meet artists/film makers and people who are involved in the arts scene but obviouly, I would love to meet more creative people. It is a bursting scene with high energy and interest.

What do you think of Rwanda’s arts scene?

There are some cool centers such as Ishyo Center for concerts, theatre and dance. The Ivuka Arts Center is one of the best place for Fine Arts painting with great artists and good vibes. Otherwise the Uburanga Arts Studio and the two galleries in KBC building deserve a look as well.

What is your art background in Switzerland?

Actually I never studied in Switzerland but graduated in the Chelsea Art School, Glasgow School of Art (BA Painting) and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Brussels (MA Art Ed). Also I did a two years Postgrade of Contemporary Arts in CCA Kitakyushu in Japan. I exhibited in many different countries and participated in few Art/Film Biennale.

You’re an artist yourself, what sort of work do you do?

My artwork is mainly on experimental loop video and film projected in galleries, museums and film festivals. I also enjoy producing artwork which involves the notion of interactivity and participation between/with spectators.

Anyone who is interested has the opportunity to see some of my work in Kigali during a solo exhibition called The Bliss of the Unknown on Saturday 26th and Sunday 27th of May 2012 from 1pm to 6pm in the Sunset Villas in Kibagabaga. Hope to see you there!

There are a couple of important things to say about the weather in Kigali. First, it has the best weather in the world (my opinion only, of course, but shared by many… at least five other people). Second, no matter how many years a foreigner has lived here, none really seem to remember exactly when the rainy seasons start and finish (at least nobody I’ve asked… again, at least five people). The seasons have confused me for the two years I’ve been here. Below is my attempt to make some sense of the weather madness based on my personal experience and some conversations with folks who’ve been here a lot longer than I.

The Dry Seasons

There are two glorious dry seasons in Rwanda full of sunshine and mostly cloudy skies. One runs from around November until early March and the other from about June to September. When I arrive in July 2010, I was treated to two months straight of sunny weather without a cloud in the sky. The temperature if you were out in the sun was hot, but not unbearable, but the shade was perfect. True, the lack of rain meant some dusty days where breathing wasn’t all that enjoyable. Great for tanning, not so great for traversing Kigali’s steep hills in work clothes.

From January until early April this year, the rains mostly stayed away. There’s the occasional short shower and some cloud cover but, for the most part, the weather has been hot and sunny. Sitting in the sun for any length of time can become a sweaty affair but hanging out in the shade is fine. It’s hot but it’s nowhere near as bad as what you’d experience in Tanzania or Kenya. I don’t even think it’s as bad as the ridiculously humid summer weather I grew up with in Southern Ontario (which I’m told is a lot like the summers in the DC and NYC areas). It’d be nice if there was a beach closer to Kigali but I guess we can’t have it all, right?

Bring some light clothes as it will be toasty. Shorts and short skirts aren’t really the done thing here, but capri pants, dresses, longer skirts and pants made of light material are fine. Sleeveless tops are ok too. Don’t forget your sun lotion as it’s expensive here and sometimes hard to find. Sunglasses and a good hat and all of the other sunny weather stuff are recommended as well.

The Rainy Seasons

Likewise, there are two rainy seasons in Rwanda – big and small – that slot in in between the two dry seasons. The big rainy season goes from around late-March until about mid-May but this can vary by a few weeks sometimes. This year’s season, I’m told, started a bit late in mid-April and has been dragging on into May. The small rainy season is from around late-September until November. The difference between the two rainy seasons is that the ‘big’ rains that come earlier in the year tend to last longer (it’s not unusual for it to rain all day, four or five times a week) whereas the ‘small’ rains tend to only be for a few hours in the afternoon and leave you with a beautiful day for the rest of the time. The big rains will screw with your plans and piss you of whereas the small rains will annoy you for a little while but clear the air and then leave you with a sunny sky. At least that’s the theory.

So now it’s May 2012 and here I sit, in the midst of the big rainy season. True to its title, it rained very heavily almost all night last night, starting at about 10pm and continuing until about 9am the next morning. But it’s 3pm now and the sky is blue with fluffy clouds. The internet tells me that it’s 20C with 88% humidity. I’m not sure what 88% humidity is supposed to feel like but I wouldn’t imagine it’s like this. The weather is pretty much perfect for me. No mugginess, slightly cooler than normal but I could still get away with wearing a skirt and a sleeveless top. It’s nice.

But don’t be fooled! While I would never dream of leaving the house before 8am, most people in Kigali have real jobs and I’m told that it is really cold at those ungodly morning hours. While I can’t vouch for the mornings, I can say with certainty that evenings this time of the year can get pretty chilly. We’re not talking winter coat and gloves type weather, but you’ll be very cold in flip-flops, open-toed shoes, skirts, skimpy dresses, sleeveless tops etc. So, if you’re planning on being in Kigali at this time of the year, have some warm clothes in your luggage. It gets cold.

A light scarf is handy not only for protecting your neck from the chilly evening weather, but also as a guard against the sometimes-slimy motorcycle helmets you’re bound to encounter if moto taxis are your preferred mode of transportation. A good-quality umbrella is also a smart buy as is a lightweight rain jacket. Wellies are probably overkill but if you plan on braving the torrential downpours (instead of hiding out until the rain stops like the rest of us) then bring them… along with rain pants. And maybe snorkel gear. When it rains hard here, it rains HARD. If you don’t have your snorkel, just hide out with all of the Rwandans under bus shelters or in shops and wait for it to stop.

So, all up, the weather in Rwanda as a whole is amazing. A bit wet at times, but the dry, sunny days more than make up for it. Places in the west tend to be colder and wetter so, if you’re heading to the hills, keep this in mind. But, as far as I’m concerned, Kigali has the best weather of anywhere I’ve been in the world. Something to look forward to! Just make sure you prepare for the wet times and bring some sunscreen for the dry seasons and you’ll love it.

So Payprus, Kigali’s most popular nightspot, was closed down in August 2011 (Papyrus Cafe next door is still open, though) for noise complaints or parking issues or some other mysterious reason only to re-open several months later as a toned-down version called Ogopogo. Why it was named after Canada’s equivalent to the Loch Ness Monster, I will never know. But, in reality, it should have been named Papyrus II because it’s pretty much an exact copy of the old place minus the dance floor (which has been turned into a wine shop with an unusually large stock of Amarula) and bruschetta bread.

So Ogopogo is essentially Papyrus before it went all nightclubby, which is great. All the good stuff about the old Papyrus without the phone theft and hookers. I guess if you’re into stealing phones or acquiring hookers then this isn’t the place for you but, if you enjoy good Italian food in a nice setting, then it’s one of the best choices in town.

One of my favourite things about Papyrus was that, if you’d spent an amount of time socialising in Kigali, you were always bound to bump into a bunch of people you know. This meant that a quiet midweek dinner would sometimes end on the dance floor at KBC. Well… that was just one time. But it’s nice to go out for a drink or dinner and see familiar faces. Well, it seems that the familiar faces have gravitated back towards Ogopogo and I’ll often see people I know here any night of the week.

The menu is pretty much the same as Papyrus’ with pizza, various meat dishes, lasagne and a variety of pastas and sauces on offer. Pizzas can be had for around Rwf 4000-5000, the meat lasagne for Rwf 5500 (probably my favourite lasagne in Kigali) and, my usual choice at Papyrus, pork chops in a green peppercorn sauce for Rwf 6,700. It was pretty salty the last time I had it, though. But that sauce is so damned tasty! Some more starter and snack-type things on the menu would be nice. The cocktails on the last page of the menu with semi-sexual descriptions are a nice touch, though I’m yet to indulge.

The best part about Ogopogo for me is the wine. Sure, it’s probably the usual Drosdty-Hof in a box but, firstly, it doesn’t have the mysterious powder floating at the bottom of each glass like you’ll find at Downtown Bar, secondly, it doesn’t taste like ass like at White Horse and, most importantly, a huge glass only costs Rwf 2,000. That makes it the best place in Kigali for affordable wine that isn’t gross and doesn’t have things floating in it. Add the nice view and the under cover open air patio and you’ve got a nice spot to sip some vino.

If you’re more into your sports then Ogopogo usually has something playing on the TV behind the bar. Sometimes it’s a major football match and sometimes it’s women’s professional wrestling… but it always seems to be one sport or another. It’s a popular place for watching football so if there’s a big game on and you want to watch it with a crowd, it makes a decent choice. I haven’t come here on a weekend night yet, so I’m not sure whether the patio turns into a crowded dance party like in the days of Ye Olde Papyrus or if it stays calm as the party-goers shuffle up the hill to Sundowner instead.

As with most restaurants in Kigali, service is pretty average. Everyone is nice but it’s hard to get the waiter’s attention, especially when you’re competing with those football matches. Food here has come out super fast on some occasions (under 30 minutes qualifies as ‘super fast’) and has taken an hour other times.

So until the new, real Papyrus (the owner is building a new version of his old place just next to Flamingo in Kimihurura) is up and running, I’m happy its back, disguised at Ogopogo.

This place has always been mysterious to me. I arrived in Kigali almost two years ago and have heard about the existence of a Greek restaurant in town, but had never met anyone who’d ever been there. So I figured maybe it had closed or was a figment of everyone’s imagination and forgot about it. Then I’d heard rumours of a Greek restaurant in town with a brothel attached. Intriguing. But still, I’d never seen the place or met any of it’s upstanding patrons. Then I finally met a person who had been there (they recommended the fish) and I had to assume that, perhaps, this place exists.

So, almost a year after meeting one customer, I finally set foot in the restaurant/hotel to find a pretty Greeked-up decor complete with ‘ancient’ concrete columns and a boat in the middle of the floor. There’s a deck with a beautiful view of the city but it was raining so we found a spot inside.

When we arrived at 1pm all of the lights were turned off and there were some shady looking characters sitting in the darkness in the corner. When we moved inside to find a table, the lights were switched on and, right after we finished eating and left, they were turned off again. Strange. There were cats running around the place and batting around a dead mouse when we were there. Being the sickos that we are, we found this amusing but I can see how this might not be everyone’s thing.

The food here is pretty good and it’s nice to have a bit of variety from the usual Kigali fare. But, fear not! You can, if you so choose, still order spaghetti bolognaise… a staple in Greece, I’m sure. Bizarrely, there’s no Greek Salad on the menu. But maybe Greek Salad in a Greek restaurant is just called ‘salad’. We didn’t order it, so we’ll never know.

We ordered a starter which ended up being a small plate with a few different little snacks. Olives, tomatoes and cucumbers with tzatziki (yum!), a pale pink dip (I’m not up enough on my Greek food to know what it was), a stuffed vine leaf and some white cheese that we assumed was feta but was actually just a tasteless rectangle of soft cheese. The starter was tasty but the disappointment of the phoney feta was slightly traumatic. Our starter was served with four warm, delicious bread rolls which we dipped in the tzatziki… very tasty.

Between the four of us we ordered two gyros (made with pork) and two moussaka. While the pork was tasty, served up on a pita with tomato, onion and cucumber, it was a bit dry and needed a lot more tzatziki than came with it on the side. When I asked for more I was told it would take too long to make. So I had to make it last. If you love the stuff like I do, maybe ask for some extra on the side when you place your order. Each of our dishes came with fries which were tasty but they were pretty skimpy with the ketchup portions. The moussaka got good reviews.

Our two waitresses were very good and between them speak French, English and Kinyarwanda. The food took around 30 minutes which is under the Kigali restaurant’s usual 45 minutes to an hour. We had a leisurely lunch and never felt pressured to hurry up.

All up, I liked it. It’s a bizarre little place in the middle of Kigali with some good food at decent prices. They even offered us one of their cats! So if you’re looking for a feline friend with fine mouse-catching skills… make a lunch stop at Hellenique.

Phone: 0788 512 342
Email: hellenique@hotmail.com
Website: http://helleniquehotel.onlc.fr

I always get annoyed when I spend a long time living in a city and only discover cafes and restaurants that I like years later. Especially when I’ve been meaning to go to them for ages! Flamingo Chinese Restaurant is one of these little gems. Located in Kimihurura just down the road from Africa Bite, it’s central and their balcony has a pretty fantastic view back over to Kiyovu.

They’re one of these places that close for a few hours in the afternoon from 3pm to 6pm so make sure to sneak in there before they close the doors in he afternoon. We didn’t realise they had the break in their day and accidentally snuck in just before 3pm and stuck around until at least 4pm.

The service was still friendly and there were actually a couple of large tables with big orders that seemed like they’d be sticking around for awhile. Service-wise, everything was great except for when I had to ask twice for a cup to share a pot of green tea. But he was working on his own, we were there when they were supposed to be closed, and he was also looking after other tables, including one large table of people so I can’t complain too much. Really great service without being too overbearing.

Our food came pretty fast, but not so fast that you wondered about its freshness. The veggie spring rolls (Rwf 500 each) came with some yummy sauces. They weren’t really that fat and stuffed with veggies, more long and thin and crispy. I liked them, my friend didn’t as much… she prefers her spring rolls with more thick and less crisp. So there you have it.

We ordered the sweet and sour pork (Rwf 4,500) and chicken with cashew nuts (Rwf 6,000). I loved the pork dish… nice big chunks of pineapple and the pork was really tender and delicious. Flamingo proudly state on their menu that they don’t add any colouring to their food and it shows in this dish which, I guess, is naturally brown. Have the same dish at Great Wall and it’s nuclear orange. Not sure what goes into food to make it that colour but, while I like the sweet and sour pork at both places, it is slightly alarming to see that it practically glows at one restaurant and not the other.

I liked the chicken and cashew dish less but it was still really good. Big pieces of chicken and green peppers and a nice sauce. I thought the chicken was a little chewy which is the only reason I didn’t really love it. The green tea (Rwf 1,000) was good and came in a seemingly endless pot. They also offered to heat it up.

The menu is pretty vast and includes soups (chicken wonton soup is 2,700), dumplings (they were out when we were there but range in price from 4,000 to 5,000 depending on fillings), the usual fried rice and noodle dishes, and sizzlers (Rwf 4,000 for veggies up to Rwf 13,500 for prawn and everything in between). Our total bill came to around Rwf 15,000 but we had plenty of food leftover to take away.

The wine menu includes bottles which is a nice break from boxed Drostdy-Hof wines (although you can get a glass for Rwf 3,000) and range in price from Rwf 20,000 to Rwf 65,000 for you fancy folks out there. A small Primus is Rwf 1,000 and cocktails range in price from Rwf 3,500 to Rwf 8,000. They’ve got a good selection of desserts as well for around Rwf 3,000. They’ll also do whole roasted ducks forRwf 22,500 which, I was told, would feed four people. Then as I walked away I was told five, and then six! So who really knows. But it seems like it’d be a nice night out with some good food you can’t really get elsewhere in Kigali.

I really liked this place and was happy to be given a menu before we left and told that they deliver! For takeaway call either 0788 302 437 or 0784 609 695. Delivery costs Rwf 1,500 to Kiyovu but we didn’t ask about other areas because we’re mean and only care about ourselves.

Hours: Mon to Sun, 11am – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm
Phone: 0788 300 333, 0784 609 695
Website: http://www.flamingokigali.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/#!/flamingokigali
Email: sales@flamingokigali.com

What: Wine, Cheese and Art Fundraiser for Afrique en Marche
When: Saturday, May 5th from 4pm to 7pm
Where: Private Home in Kimihurura (two houses down from Hellenique Greek Restaurant)
Cost: Rwf 15,000 (buy tickets by May 2nd)

The Rwandan Association Afrique en Marche manufactures high quality prostheses and facilitates the integration of disabled persons integrate into society so that they may live more autonomously.

To support its mission, you are invited to attend a cocktail featuring international wine, cheese, and hors d’oeuvres as well as an art exhibit and silent auction of paintings from the Ivuka Arts Cooperative of Rwanda. This fundraising event will take place at a private home in Kimuhurura on Saturday, May 5th from 4pm to 7pm.

A Rwf 15,000 ticket will get you entrance, two glasses of wine, one plate of various types of cheese and a selection of hor d’oeuvres. Please confirm your attendance and purchase your ticket(s) by May 2nd by contacting either Wendy at 078-860-6460 / wendy.valentini@gmail.com or Kim at 078-830-1866 / kimouna@gmail.com.

What: Demobilized Child Soldier Theatre Piece – “Hozwa Mwana w’u Rwanda”
Where: Ishyo Arts Center, Kacyru
When: Friday, April 27th at 7pm
How Much: Free!

For the past 6 weeks a group of 30 recently demobilized youth at the Child Rehabilitation Center in Musanze have been working with four theatre facilitators to create a new piece of theatre, “Hozwa Mwana w’u Rwanda” (Be Soothed, Son of Rwanda), based upon their experiences in the Congo and their hopes and concerns as they transition into reintegration to civilian life in Rwanda. The piece will be performed in Kinyarwanda with English and French subtitles. There will be a question-and-answer session with the youth after the show.

For more information on the project, check out the interview we did with Ailin, one of the theatre facilitators.

What: Cities on Speed – ‘Shanghai Space’
Where: Cinestar, Nyamirambo
When: Tuesday, May 8th at 8pm
How Much: Rwf 1,500

If this event looks familiar it’s because it was advertised on this site a couple of weeks ago but had to be rescheduled due to wonky cinema equipment. But this time it’s for real! So check it out.

Cities on Speed, Global Visions for an Urban Future is a documentary project commissioned by The Danish Film Institute and the national broadcaster DR. The project is a series of four films – Bogotà Change, Mumbai Disconnected, Cairo Garbage, Shanghai Space. They’ve been selected through a call for submissions, directed by four different filmmakers who tell character-based stories on four of the world’s largest megacities.

We started with Cairo, looking at the disparities between the city’s waste management plan and its increasing population. We then moved onto Mumbai, focusing on the city’s choked transport network and the various actors which moved along with, in between, and at the edges of the stifling flow of traffic.

Shanghai will be featured in the second last of this series titled ‘Shanghai Space’:

Shanghai is an explosion of transformation. Every other day a new building is completed, and every year the city’s population grows by half a million people. Authorities are desperately seeking out more space, while the city’s inhabitants must adapt to constantly changing surroundings. In an office on the 20th floor, government advisor Professor Shu prepares the next generation of young urban planners for Shanghai’s future. In order to find the space needed for Shanghai’s millions of inhabitants, planners are now looking underground.

‘Shanhai Space’ will be shown on 3rd April at 8pm , at Cinestar Cinema in Nyamirambo. Running time is 60 minutes.

These films are in conjunction with KIST Urban Design Studio Year 4 and there will be a short introduction by tutor Killian Doherty. The future intention is that this film series relating to architecture and urban design will be screened to the public at KIST.

Entry is now Rwf 1,500 per person to subsidise free entry for the KIST students. Your support is enabling these students exposure to resources not readily available at KIST and we thank you for your patronage.

For more info on architecture in Rwanda check out: http://rwanda-arcbox.blogspot.com