Lizzie Newell Science Fiction

Kuspuk Making: The Pattern

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sat, 31 Dec 2011 20:13:00 +0000

Several years ago, a co-worker had offered to teach a class in kuspuk making and I bought fabric to make one. The class didn't happen. I've had three or so yards of lovely batik fabric just waiting. The color is sort variegated blue and gold and reminds me of tundra in August.

A kuspuk is a traditional Alaskan woman's summer parka with a hood and, around the bottom, a sort of ruffle or peplum. A kuspuk is to Alaska what an aloha shirt is to Hawaii. They're usually made out of calico with commercial braid used for trim. The hoods are usually close fitting to keep mosquitoes off. Even though they are called "summer parkas," they are often worn indoors year round and are used by Native dance troops. They're easy and inexpensive to make and cool enough to be worn inside while engaged in vigorous activity.

I remembered buying a pattern as well and went through every one of my sewing drawers.

Nope. Had to buy one. I went to four stores before I found a kuspuk pattern available. Apparently kuspuk making has been a popular activity this Christmas and "Kuspuk Pattern by Lois" put out my Alaskan Patterns seems to be the one and only pattern in usage.

Unsure if I should make myself a size 16 or size 18, I made a preliminary muslin out of an old sheet. A muslin is to writing what a draft is to a novel, or a white-build to making cardmodels. A jewelry maker once told me first make it out of copper, then silver, then gold. So I made part of the kuspuk out of an old sheet. Good thing I did. The fit is horrid.

A shirt, jacket, or other such covering can be imagined as three elliptical tubes with the arm tubes intersecting the torso tube at an angle. Imagine that we've got the tubes intersect this way. We cut an arm tube open and flatten it out. The top of the arm shape now looks a bit like a sinusoidal curve. It might even be a sinusoidal curve--I'm unsure of the mathematics.

The sleeve on the kuspuk by Lois is cut nearly strait, no hint of that lovely sine wave. To make it worse this sleeve is going into an armhole which resembles a slit. This would work if she'd gone back to the old peasant method of construction with everything made out of rectangles and putting gussets under the arms. This works better with hand-sewing than machine sewing. It is nice for ironing, however, and so good for undergarments. The chemise for my regency gown is constructed in the old peasant method. This old method can be done without a pattern and without cutting. Fabric can be ripped into rectangles or woven initially as rectangles.

Some computer programs convert 3-D shapes to 2-D shapes but I use the paper, scissors, and tape method. I make a guess as to the shape, cut it out of paper, and tape it together. I make adjustments with scissors and tape until I've got those nice elliptical tubes. Then I cut it apart and retrace what I've got onto a new piece of paper. Voila a pattern.

I buy readymade patterns either when I want to understand how something is made or when I want to jump ahead in the process to the interesting parts. So with the kuspuk pattern I spent 20 dollars for Lois to figure out the shape of sleeves and hood. Very disappointing that she had skipped this crucial part of the process herself. The pattern is worthless, everything else I can easily do without any help.
I'm not sure way Lois had such a poor understanding of tailoring. I learned about sleeves by making doll clothing. I made some truly awful miniature shirts. Fortunately they were made out of scrap and so didn't cost me anything.

I looked at pictures of kuspuks on the Internet and found that this sleeve fit problem is endemic. Whole dance troops are performing with badly fitting sleeves and probably accidently ripping out the underarm seams. Lois recommends double stitching the seam under the arm, so it seems she was somewhat aware of the problem. We all seem to be camouflaging the bad tailoring by making kuspuks out of fabric printed with flowers and the like. "Tailor" is the right word since the word originates from French and means "cut."

Lois may have been a good seamstress but she was a lousy tailor.

I am now fantasizing about designing and publishing better kuspuk patterns. I can't decide if I want to do raglan or in-set sleeves.

Structural Unemployment

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sat, 31 Dec 2011 19:49:00 +0000

Listening to NPR I heard about "structural unemployment." At last! Someone talking sense about the current state of the economy. We've been looking at the economic problem wrong. It's not that we need more jobs created; we need the right jobs created.

Here is how I see the situation. We had the real-estate bubble with too many resources (labor hours) going into building houses, houses which were too big and expensive for people to pay (work) for. So the market crashed. We needed to move construction workers, real-estate agents, and mortgage brokers into jobs producing things we actually need.

That crash brought the rest of the economy down as we cut costs (labor hours) from things we actually need such as education and scientific research. Exacerbating the situation we are undergoing a shift in retail, more goods bought on the Internet and less in actual stores. We must move retail workers into new jobs.

To get back to deploring resources effectively, someone has to decide how to what we need, then borrow money to for it. We've got three groups who could make the critical decisions and take the risk. Consumers could take out loans to buy things which will make their lives better, but consumers are already carrying too much debt, and they can't buy things unless the stuff is available.

Businesses could borrow and make guesses about what consumers might. But business, like government, has been cutting costs and reducing both risk and inventory, making wanted and needed goods unavailable.

Where are you Steve Jobs? We need men and women with vision, those who understand what customers will want and are willing to take risks, take out the loans, and hire people.

That leaves the government taking the risk, but government barrowing will only work if it's backed up by vision, the understanding of what sort of investment of labor will pay off in the long run. Here is opportunity. Some necessary services can only most effectively provided by the government, services such as: education, public health, mass transportation, research, and job retraining.

But as I see it the bottom line, the things we most need as a nation are vision and courage. With these, we can put people to work doing jobs which need to be done. I think all of us: consumer, businesses, and government, should stop agonizing over cutting short term costs and instead consider long-term investment.

I'm doing my part. I went out and bought a new refrigerator. In the short term, I'm spending--gasp, pant, pant, panic--more money, but I hope in the long term it will save me money in energy costs.

Baby Seeds

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sat, 16 Jul 2011 23:13:00 +0000

When I was a small child, a friend of my mother's was having a baby, so my mother and I went to the store. She picked out the correct packet, envelope and card, to send to the expectant mother, making sure the packet was for a girl. Unable to read, and knowing that daddys putting seed in mommies, I believed my mother was buying baby seeds. The pictures on the cards clearly showed the contents of the envelopes: baby boys in blue, baby girls in pink, and babies of uncertain gender in yellow.
This didn't entirely make sense to me. Why would my mother be asked to casually purchase such an important item? Surely, the expectant mother and her husband would desire to choose the variety of their own child.

And wouldn't such seeds be sold in catalogues the same as seed for our garden? It also occurred to me that if baby seeds were purchased and marriage was for when two people loved each other, a woman should be able to marry another woman. The baby would have two mothers.

In a few years I developed a better understanding of the difference between plants and animals. But the idea of a catalogue for baby seeds still intrigues me. I now believe that the moral arguments against a woman marrying another woman might be more properly applied to the purchase of baby seeds because, with such a purchase, moral and ethical issues compound. For a science fiction writer like me, such issues are fodder for stories.

Brain Cravings

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Mon, 21 Feb 2011 21:51:00 +0000

I'm thinking a lot about why people become interested in things, not just novels but also food, music, and games. Children who have autism tend to be come rigid in their interests, playing the same game or eating the same foods over and over again. As a teacher's assistant working with such children, I often struggle to get one kid to name the letters instead of lining them up by color, or to get another to recognize whole words instead of just repeating the names of letters. Hopefully these kids will someday enjoy reading whole stories.

And then I go home and write fiction for adults. I'm facing the same sort of problem. Some readers insist on the same story and type of story told repeatedly. I work at enticing readers into something new.

Here is what I think is happening. Brains are prediction machines, having evolved over time to analyze patterns and predict what will happen next. They are driven to find out what happens next. Brains which are good at predicting pass on the ability, producing babies with similar brains.

This prediction isn't conscious analysis, but an instinctive drive. Our brains crave patterns and prediction of patterns the same way we crave food, or sleep, or affection. If these patterns aren't available, we create them. Brains with neurological problems blocking their development go after whatever patterns are accessible. The results are often amazing. People missing huge parts of their brains can still adapt and function well. I stand in awe of the brain, particularly the brain of a child, and what it can do.

I believe that a baby playing with a rattle and an adult reading a novel are both engaged in pattern prediction and for the same reasons; brains crave a combination of expectation and surprise.

The baby shaking the rattle doesn't know exactly what will happen, but she has an idea of what will happen and the result delights her. As she goes through the sequence of muscle movement, visual effect, and sound, her brain adapts, rewiring itself to better-coordinated hearing, movement, and vision. It's fun and feels good because it's what the brain needs. When the child gets older, she loses interest in rattles or her interest in them changes. She might move on to exploring rhythm. At this time, her brain has already made the changes and no longer craves the simple pattern of rattle-shaking.

Young brains crave easily predicted patterns. Children are usually picky eaters, liking foods with simple textures and flavors. A baby may like basic rice-cereal but, as a toddler, moves on to various dry cereals or to plain pasta. Children are generally interested in basic flavors--sweet or salty--and like predictable shapes and textures. Good luck trying to convince a toddler that a broken cheese-flavored cracker tastes the same as a whole cheese-flavored cracker.
Children generally dislike complex textures such the texture of broccoli. The buds on broccoli make for texture which is difficult for a developing brain to decode. The texture doesn't make sense.

As a child I preferred my spaghetti sauce to be served separately from my noodles, "next to" not "on top of." The meat as it browned smelled delicious, but when the ingredients were put together, I couldn't taste either the meat or the noodles. Hash still tastes this way to me. I also pulled appart sandwiches, eating baloney separate from bread. I'd lick the frosting off cupcakes before eating the cake. These preparations simplify the flavors of food. Now we call this type of preparation food "deconstruction." Apparently it's the hot new trend in cooking, but children have done it since time immemorial.

As an adult I detest plain noodles. They're just too boring. I don't eat cake unless it's got something unusual-- fresh fruit, mocha filling--or I'm hungry and it's the only food available. I want something interesting on top of my noodles maybe some anchovies or some capers. Definitely some garlic. Maybe fresh garlic sautéed in olive oil until it just starts to caramelize. My brain already knows the taste of noodles. There is nothing else to be learned from eating bland pasta. It wants combinations of flavors and textures: bitter and sweet with smooth. Salty and sour with crunchy.

For the brain to make sense of sensations--hmm similar words--it has to encounter the same pattern repeatedly. The brain will seek to repeat the pattern until the activity becomes boring. How often it needs to encounter a pattern varies from individual to individual. A person who has autism needs to encounter the same pattern many more times than does a person with a typical brain. But whose brain is typical anyway?

I only read one Nancy Drew mystery before I became bored with it. Yet I'm still fascinated by Rudyard Kipling's Elephant's Child. The line "The great gray-green greasy Limpopo River all set about with fever-trees," still tastes good to my brain.
In writing novels I'm attempting to feed the brain a really tasty pattern. I've got to get the mix between expectation and surprise just right. If it's too unusual the story tastes like hash. If it's too predictable it's boring. The same mix won't work for every reader because of variation in individual brains.

Enjoyment of food and of novels isn't entirely alike. Food must feed both the body and the brain. If nothing else is available I'll eat plain noodles, eat them without complaining. But if a novel fails to fulfill the cravings of my brain, I will stop reading.

As a writer, I have a dilemma. Should I limit my writing to simple easily understandable patterns, the equivalent of plain noodles, or should I write patterns which take more sophistication to understand? The blockbuster model of publishing says write plain noodles, make the story understandable to nearly everyone. But that leaves an entire range of readers starving. Simplistic writing isn't adequate to their needs. It's not adequate for my needs as a writer.

I believe if I trying to write plain noodles I should do it with pride, but when I'm driven to write pasta with puttanesca sauce I shouldn't forego the anchovies and capers.

There are those who insist that fiction must follow similar restrictive and arbitrary rules, similar to saying spaghetti can only have marinara sauce. These rules are basically codified personal taste, similar to an autistic toddler announcing that broccoli is yucky and throwing it across the room. Many adults also dislike broccoli, but it's not the fault of the farmer who raised the broccoli, the cook who prepared it, or even of Mother Nature who packed it with vitamins, nutrition, fiber, color, and all that. Broccoli isn't inherently yucky. It's a matter of personal taste, meaning it’s a matter if neurological development.

What can I say to them when they gag on my offering? Yes, people do gag when they expect one flavor and get another. This doesn't indicate that, for example, puttanesca sauce is poorly made. It merely has been tasted by a diner has never encountered red spaghetti sauce other than marinara, and that diner's brain isn't yet ready for that pattern of sensation.

Victorian Steel Costume

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 04:30:00 +0000

Here it is except for some finishing details, like adding the steel cups. The crinoline is one that my sister bought for her wedding and I used for mine. The brow skirt acting as a petticoat belonged to my other sisters. Or maybe it still does if she wants it back. The skirt is a silk shawl that my roommate Rebecca bought and then put in the drier so now it has antique looking puckers and wrinkles. It's wrapped around like a sari. The boots are from Fred Meyers. The hair piece is Native Alaska Bead work in an interior style. But I think I will make a different barrette.
The cat once again helps out

Steam Punk Overskirt

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 04:07:00 +0000

I cut off three 2" strips to use as straps then used the remainder of the burgundy fabric for the overskirt. I cut it in half, pressed down cord channels and bottom hem, then sewed the side seems.
This is the side cord channels being pressed.

I threaded silver colored cord in the side channels and white rayon grossgrain ribbon in the top channels. This is a corner where the channels meet.

This is the skirt laid on the floor. It's two rectangles sewn together. I find it amazing that something this shape ends up looking like a draped overskirt.

And the cat getting involved.

The skirt gets hooked to the corset by a wire goodie with a hook and a place for a strap. It probably would work fine attaching only by the strap, but it's hard to tell before things are made. I made the hook goodies from galvanized utility wire and a bit of silver wire and sewed them on with pearl cotton embroidery floss. The straps are 1" wide and have buckles bought from Black Elk Leather.

I wanted the overskirt smooth in the front and back with the gathers at the side. This is the top channel of the skirt with the gather ribbon pinned where I well sew it to keep the front flat.

The bustle installed on the overskirt. The crinoline was made with panniers made of net, the wrong look for the late 1800s. I removed the panniers and reattached them as a bustle.

Chemise

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 03:48:00 +0000

I won't be able to wash this corset, so I need a chemise This one is a practical and not particularly historically accurate undergarment. It's a tube. I bought a yard of cotton lycra blend(5% lycra) from Jo-Annes. The fabric is folded in half with modern chemise on top as the pattern. I drew the shape with quilter's pencil and cut. The fabric and shape may not be Victorian but the intent remains the same, keep the outer clothing clean.

Pinned.

Sewn together.

Finished with straps added. The hardest part of this was getting the straps in the right location so they don't show under the corset.

No, I'm not going to photograph this with me in it.

Steam Punk Corset Bodice

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 22:03:00 +0000

Shell fabric is burgundy colored linen/cotton jacquard bought at Jo-Annes. Lining is white cotton denim. I decided I needed a heavy lining to support all that steel hardware. I think I bought 3, or maybe 3 1/2, yards of the burgundy fabric. I would have bought more but it was all that was left on the bolt. I pinned the pattern to the fabric (folded in half) and then traced the pattern with chalk on the burgundy fabric and pencil on the white fabric. The chalk helped with accuracy of sewing. Latter I switched to a quilters pencil which works better, sharper line and less of a mess. The pattern still has tape on it from checking fit relationships. The two semi-circular shapes are the bust cups.
The front burgundy parts sewn to the lining. I did the cups with the burgundy outer parts sewn down last by hand. If I were to do this again I'd wait on stitching down the cups until after straps are installed and the bottom edge closed. In the background is the back part of the bodice with the back seam stitched.
Next came the difficulty of fitting. I got enough done to try it on then had to take apart the bodice to reduce the size. Taking it on and off was done mostly with pins. I'd planned it to fit without the space for lacing and so had to remove about 1/2 " from each seam, except for the front opening.

Here is the fitting process. It's pinned in front instead of closed with the busk. The openings all have plackets behind.
The bodice is all puckered because it doesn’t yet have the boning. This shows what boning actually does. Corsets were more for a smooth fit than for making the waist smaller.

The sides have aluminum Dritz eyelets put in with a set of Dritz snap and eyelet pliers. I'm not all that pleased with them. The eyelets either don’t clamp all the way or get crushed and snag on the lacing string. I smoothed them out with a small file. I found it works best to put the eyelets in messy so that lots of frayed fabric gets entangled in the crushed aluminum.
The boning is steel and purchased from Seams Like Home, which is also the source of the ribbon and silver colored cording.
I made a mistake on the length. On one side of the front opening the bodice wasn't long enough for the busk. I solved this by adding the 2" binding on the top and bottom. This also creates the pockets for the ends of the boning. I laid out the boning then drew the location with quilters pencil and top stitched going across the binding to make the boning pockets. Next I cut the boning to length and crimped the metal ends on. I found crimping the end caps works best with two sets of pliers, a set of lineman's pliers to squeeze from the side and old the cap and a set of flat jewelers pliers to squeeze from top and bottom.
The boning hand stitched with pearl cotton in a zigzag pattern. I was going to do cross stitch but zigzag looks fine and is simpler.
In this photo the straps are still pinned on the back, and the busk is only tacked in place. Pins can't be used with metal mesh since it doesn't bend enough.

Here it is on me. Notice goofy expression on face. I tend to do that when doing self timed photographs.

Steam Punk Corset Busk

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 18:52:00 +0000

Making the busk started with a search for metal mesh. First I went to Home Depot but they only had large mesh hardware cloth that came in pieces 3 feet by 12 or something like that. Headed next to Lowe's. It took a bit of explaining about how I was looking for metal mesh, preferably steel. A Lowes sales clerk with tattoos and piercings helped me out. We found galvanized Kwikmesh in rolls in 6" by 25' rolls. I only need two little pieces but bought the whole roll. Then the fellow asked me what I was making. Turns out he also writes science fiction and we discussed the relationship between steam punk and goth. Pretty funny I don't look like the sort of person who would know about goth.
With the mesh home, I traced the cardboard busk onto the mesh and cut it out with tin snips leaving 1/4" 'seam allowance.'
Here I have half the busk clamped ready to bend the edge under. Actually I had to use larger clamps. These two kept slipping.

Here are the two halves of the busk with the edges turned under.

I've bent 16 gauge galvanized utility wire into the hooks. On the right is my layout drawing. Sorry I didn’t take pictures while bending. It become awkward to put down pliers and take off gloves to operate a camera.

Attaching hooks to busk with what I think is silver wire. I bought the wire at Black Elk Leather. It's for jewelry, and the wire has tarnish on it that looks like silver tarnish. On the right is my gloves. I started off not using them and got a blister on my hand.

I coiled then ends of the silver wire and attached the ends down with brass wire and coiled those ends in turn. Sorry didn't take pictures during this process. Too hard to put down gloves and pliers. Here is a detail of the finished busk.

Romance Through Technology

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sat, 15 May 2010 22:14:00 +0000

There is now a movement afoot to combine Science Fiction with Romance, which I think is great fun. This type of story is being called SFR and there's a new blog up called SFR Brigade bringing together readers and writers interested in the combination. I enjoy stories that bring together love and technology, so I fit right in. I've posted the following on the SFR Brigade blog but I'm putting it here too.

I came to RSF from science fiction, or more accurately I came to romance through technology, both in my art and in my real life.

I started off studying art and moved my focus to sculpture. A sculpture lab is a great place to see what can be done with tools and materials. For about five years I melted, burned, and blew up materials. I love the gritty honesty of working with real tools and real materials. I love how bronze glows vermillion orange in a crucible, the feeling of power in cold bending steel, and the technical challenge of turning an idea into concrete reality, sometimes using Portland cement.
In the midst of this exploration I fell in love with an engineer. He was a brilliant and creative man, one who could design and make almost anything with limited tools and materials. It was a romance of technology. Early in our courtship, we had construction dates. I'd go to his place and we built his garage, that later became ours when we married. We did gardening and red worm composting. For a birthday present he gave me a drill press.

He was also dying of a rare neurological disorder that ate away at his brainstem leaving him struggling with physical coordination. I came to identify with the B&B ships in McCaffrey's Ship Who Sang. I was the brawn and he was the brain. I craved stories about machinery melded with the human body.

My husband, medical retired, threw himself into volunteer work. He became coordinator of a statewide volunteer effort to put computer networks in schools, and I became his assistant. We put computer networks into every school in the State of Alaska. Ironically he did this while the neurological network of his brainstem was failing. I became a certified network installer and attended seminars on such things as fiber optics. Oddly, I was often the only woman at these seminars.

I began to see that society considers some technology and materials to belong to men and other technology and materials to belong to women. Steel, concrete, electrical wiring, drills, and soldiering irons are male. Fabric, textiles, sewing machines, and laundry irons are female. Women often don’t think of women's tools as technology even though the girls' stuff is often more complex and technical that the boys' stuff. Just bring up the subject of quilts and see how technical women can get in their discussion. And actually, installing a computer network isn't any more complex than crocheting, depending on the project.

In my art, I began combining male and female materials and techniques. I made clothing such as bras and hoopskirts out of male materials: steel, rubber, concrete. Most of these were not wearable. Then I moved from sculpture to writing, but I'm doing the same thing, by combining romance with science fiction. I'm taking the girl stuff and putting it together with the boy stuff. This is hot. I love technology, but even more than that I love techy men. I love how they think and how they solve problems.

My husband died of his disease, but I now write about romance heroes who are tech nerds like him. To write these characters I've got to get the technology right. Boys love their tools in a particularly male way. In showing male characters it helps to understand this love and to share in their fascination with things that go boom. Go borrow their stuff. I want to tell you girls, that you can go into the garage and use boy's tools, or buy your own. And for you boys in this group, you can use tools from the sewing room. Be sure talk to your sweetie when you do it. He or she will want you to treat the tools with care and will have good information on how to use the stuff. As a reader or a writer, don't be intimidated by either male or female technology, you are as smart and technically savvy as member of the opposite sex. And they are willing to share.

Victorian Steel:Duct Tape and Busk

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 04:35:00 +0000

Before committing myself to steel, I made a sample busk out of matboard, good thing. I found I had to remove about 2 inches so I could sit down comfortably.
I taped the busk into the muslin mockup with duct tape and taped in some boning too.
Here's what it looks like.

Victorian Steel

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sun, 18 Apr 2010 17:58:00 +0000

Summer will soon be here and I'm making my plans. This year I'm going to attend RWA(Romance Writers of America) Nationals in Nashville. Part of the festivities is a steampunk party aboard a steamboat.
I've got a steel bra that I made as sculpture back when I was an art student. I'm planning to remake it as part of a corset. But now the ideas are snowballing and I'm planning an entire steampunk costume.
Last weekend, I began drafting the pattern for the corset. I made a rought preliminary out of paper then made a muslin and redid the pattern. I'm going to do another muslin next.

I purchased fabric, a burgundy colored linen/cotton blend for the outside and a cotton twill for the inside layer. I'm going to do the lacing on the sides and a split busk on the front. I looked into purchasing a split busk and decided it would be better to make my own out of steel mesh and wire. I'm going to put the busk on the outside
Yesterday I went from hardware store to hardware store looking for steel mesh. I what I was looking for at Lowe's. Loui, a salesperson there, was a great help. He writes science-fiction short stories. He had a Mowhawk and tattoos. We talked about art and industrial goth. I never thought I'd be doing industrial goth. This costume won't be. It's more industrial than goth.

I drew a layout for the corset, and put the steel parts on top.

DSC_0601

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 08:26:00 +0000

DSC_0601
Originally uploaded by batwrangler

DSC_0591

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 08:26:00 +0000

DSC_0591
Originally uploaded by batwrangler

DSC_0578

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 08:25:00 +0000

DSC_0578
Originally uploaded by batwrangler

DSC_0226

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 08:25:00 +0000

DSC_0226
Originally uploaded by batwrangler

A Regency Era Lady Undresses

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 18:47:00 +0000

A Regency Era Lady Undresses
Originally uploaded by Fordan

I'm taking off my gown and pettycoat infront of 3000 people in the Worldcon masquarade in Montreal.

Cosplay/photography session at Worldcon 2009

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 18:45:00 +0000

Cosplay/photography session at Worldcon 2009
Originally uploaded by Fordan

Here I am at the regency ball in Montreal.

Regency Era Excess

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Fri, 26 Jun 2009 17:39:00 +0000

My regency gown went together pretty fast, but the underwear is taking forever with lots of ironing and hand sewing. While working I think about all the women who spent so much time sewing in the past. I'm doing much of the work by machine. They did it all by hand. Sewing dresses must have been a full time occupation for the middle and upper class. Even if they hired out much of the work, they must have spent large amounts of time planning clothing and getting it fitted.
Regency era women's dress is noted for being less restrictive than in the periods before and after. And when the filmy cotton gowns first came out, they were quite racy. It looked to contemporaries as if the women were dressed in underwear.
I am amazed though how many layers of cotton the women were swathed in. Under the dress a lady wore a petticoat, stays, chemise, pantalettes, and stockings. A chemise takes three yards of fabric, a petticoat five, a gown maybe seven. All dressed up a lady would be wearing twenty years of fabric. A modern woman can be clothed with only three yards. I think that maybe women of the regency/empire era probably had fewer items of clothing than we do, less fabric overall, but they wore more fabric all at once. Gentlemen of wore two waistcoats along with coat, shirt, cravat and probably undershirt.
I think about how all this cotton was grown with slave labor. Well not all of it. Much of the cotton was coming from China, and I don’t know what their labor practices were at the time.
I read about how one of the Louis kings put out an edict that no woman could appear in court more than once in same gown. This was to support the French textile industry, with no concern for the slaves. He also blocked up palace fireplaces following the theory that cold people would buy more clothing. This seems to have been his economic stimulus plan.
Maybe this is why men and women of this period wore so much clothing.
His plan seems tremendously short sighted to me. Okay, they had a glut of textile workers. They should have shifted the worker into doing something useful. I look around and see oversized US automobiles and think not much has changed. We still seem to think excess is our patriotic duty.

Regency gown out of a bedsheet

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 04:46:00 +0000

Today I finished my practice version of a regency gown. I made it out of an old bedsheet. That way I can goof up on throw away fabric. I'm pleased with how it came out.

I still have lots of work todo before the SS&F Convention in Montreal

Off to the sci-fi ball Regency style

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 04:33:00 +0000

In August I'm going to Montreal for the World Science Fiction and Fantasy convention. In Denver last year, worldcon had a Regency ball. Apparently Regency balls are an institution at these conventions. I had a great time dancing with people dressed in period costume and others dressed as space pirates. I resolved that at the next worldcon I'd have an appropriate costume.
The patterns for a regency gown, chemise, and stays arrived today. I bought fabric, it's 100% cotton with tan stripes. I wouldn’t have chosen tan if anything else was available, but the fabric selection here in Anchorage, Alaska is slim. So I have to take what I can get.
I'll make the dress first out of an old sheet to see if it fits right.
I am now sorting through fabric pieces and the fabric is in the drier.

High-Tech Fishing

noreply@blogger.com (Lizzie Newell) — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 21:38:00 +0000

I write fiction about a world of high-tech fishing. Sometimes readers don't accept the combination. I should laugh. The word "tech" originally meant "fabric," "weaving," or "net." So what could be higher tech than catching fish in synthetic fabric nets using sonar, GPS, and a network of satellites and navigational beacons? Everything about fishing is "tech," but readers still don’t believe me. And that brings up the issue of criteria. How does a person distinguish high-tech from low-tech? Advanced from primitive?

I had fun for a while asking people for definitions. Most hadn't thought about it. They would say that technology is things like cell phones and computers. So I asked, "Which is higher tech? A cell-phone or a steam locomotive?" They'd say, "Cell-phone of course. It was invented later."

What if the cell phone had been invented before the steam locomotive? Would it be higher-tech? If I had a PhD in the history of technology, I probably could pull out some juicy examples to demonstrate that components of cell-phone technology were available before components of a steam locomotive. And we might get into arguing the dates of inventions, but that would be beside the point. I don't think date of invention a good measure of technological advancement. It suggests that we have some mighty plan that we are all trying achieve — every one of us striving for the same goal, a linear race to a god-given finish line. I'll come back to goals.

Okay maybe a cell phone is more complex than a steam locomotive, so it's higher tech. I'm no expert on steam locomotives, but I suspect that some of them are every bit as complex as a cell phone.

And is complexity a good measure of advancement? An early computer with all those vacuum tubes was complex to make and to operate. Someone figured out how to make it simpler by etching transistors on glass, and that made cheap, easily maintained computers possible. Now don't start arguing about whether a computer chip is glass or crystal. That's beside the point. Computers became small enough to drop on the bathroom floor while sitting on the potty and playing computer poker. Or small enough to drop in the potty. Now that is high-tech in low places.

How about effectiveness? "Which is more effective, a cell-phone or a steam locomotive?" That depends on what you want to do, right? A cell phone wins for sending a message. Sending packages, riding across the country and seeing the sights, the locomotive wins. I think effectiveness, a rather good criterion of high-tech, but that criterion brings in values and judgment, a subjective criterion. Maybe I should abandon the term "high-tech" because it suggests that complex technology is more advanced than simple technology.

Now, let's consider the technology of infant nutrition. Which is the most advanced: breastfeeding or infant formula? It seems obvious that infant formula is more advanced; it was invented later, it's more complex. But it's not all that clear because infant formula is generally not as effective as breastfeeding.

Suppose a woman is breastfeeding because she is a microbiologist, and she knows all about endocrines, the human immune system, and the nutritional and emotional needs of an infant. Based on this knowledge, she decided to breast feed. I believe her breastfeeding in this case is more advanced than the woman who feeds her child formula because she can't get time off work. That brings options and knowledge into the definition of high-tech.

What is the goal of the person using the technology and why does she choose to use that particular technology? But wait wait, maybe that woman breastfeeding isn't using technology at all. She is using knowledge, not actual equipment. Oh dear here we go, getting off the point. Does something have to have a physical presence to be technology? Are ideas technology? The patent office thinks so. And computer programs are technology with no physical presence.

Okay back to the point. What was the point?

To determine advancement of technology we must consider the goals, knowledge level, and motivation of the person(s) using the technology, along with the effectiveness of the technology in achieving those goals.

So what about my fictional high-tech fishing planet and reader reaction? I want to write a good story without slowing it down to explain all this.