LONDON CLUB KIDS

R I P David Bowie

2016-01-12T21:15:00.001+00:00

Yesterday came the sad news about the passing of possibly the most influential and iconic artist of our time - David Bowie.

There is virtually nothing we can add to the thousands of posthumous praise and career reviews that are pouring from every media outlet, the blogs, the tv channels, every radio station is playing Bowie songs since last night and today every newspaper's front page is an obituary.
His influence on popular culture is so vast that it's hard to describe him as pioneer of just one discipline but one of the most important and groundbreaking achievements that we can bestow upon Bowie is how he challenged the status quo and people's perception of gender and masculinity. In a time when being gender-fluid is a trend, we take our hats off to the original gender-bender, the father of quirk, the incomparable and unsurpassable David Bowie.

We lost a hero yesterday, may he live in our hearts and minds forever more.

The sad news was announced on his official facebook page:

Popular youtube archive from the 80s Club Kids

2015-12-23T18:35:00.001+00:00

With Christmas upon us, it's time to reflect and get cosy on the sofas....and watch anything that our screens throw at us, so I am hoping that the following selection of videos will entertain you as much as they did us. Late 70s and 80s were times of social rebellion that affected popular culture and left a mark on arts, music and fashion, ultimately leading to the birth of a multitude of social subcultures but none more exciting and unique than the New Romantics (UK) and the Club Kids (US). They combined creativity with party lifestyle and with an admirable dedication to individuality they challenged the social acceptance. They set new rules for generations to come and we are now experiencing revivals of the movement all over the world. My book documenting the new wave of club kids in London (published in 2011) is still selling worldwide and I get many emails and messages on social media from people who tell me that it inspired them and opened a whole new world that they were hungry for.
So let's reflect on times past and have a laugh along the way. Enjoy these and Merry Christmas!

Absolut Rainbow "Love Is Love" Launch Party

2015-06-30T19:12:00.001+01:00

Another Pride Weekend rolled by and London was in full celebration mode from Friday till....well, some are still going if you ask me.
As usual, Soho was crammed with people, mostly topless or rainbowed, streets were all pedestrianised and many were so busy, you needed hours to cross from one end to the other.
All bars and clubs had themed Pride events and many of the big brands joined the frenzy by sponsoring this or that, from Starbucks to Barclays, it seems everyone wanted to cash-in on the trend. Well, with gay marriage just hot off the yes vote in Ireland and the US supreme court, the trend is stronger than ever. One brand that has been a long-time supporter of the Gay Agenda is Absolut, so naturally, we were most interested in the Launch Party they threw at the exclusive Soho venue - The Groucho Club. Started as a somewhat private affair, the club was filling up fast and by 6pm literally the who's who of the scene were all present.
With the help of DJs Mark-Ashley Dupé, Maze&Masters and Fat Tony, performances by Mz Kimberly and the ever-so refreshing presence of London's exuberant Club Kids (this time represented by the current leaders of the pack - House Bound) the party quickly turned into the hottest event of the weekend. Anyone from D-listers to A-listers and in between were letting their hair down and sipping those sweet Absolut cocktails. I wonder how my head didn't punish me the following day. All in all, the night was a pure indulgence and Absolut proved once again that they know how to throw an awesome event. The fun was supposed to end by 11pm but of course that got extended till 2am... naturally.
Let's see who looked cool....

WUT CLUB - Larry Tee's leaving party

2015-05-09T17:51:00.001+01:00

Last Friday was the last WUT Club party with producer and DJ extraordinaire Larry Tee.

Having worked with the likes of Ru Paul back in the hey day of the Club Kids in New York, Larry moved to London in the early noughties. He has been a permanent fixture on our scene ever since and it is sad to see him leave us. He is making his way over to Berlin where he will continue to open doors for many young artists and we wish him all the best in his next step. It was a great leaving do Larry and you will be missed.

all images ©O.Yordanov2015

In Focus: Ollywood.

2015-05-07T02:07:00.001+01:00

Oly Innes (a k a Ollywood) 26

Originally from Worthing (just outside Brighton), Oly moved to London 8 years ago to study photography at London College of Fashion. He is a regular party host and a scene heartthrob to both girls and boys alike. Here is an insight into Ollywood world.

-What is your style, how would you describe it and your influences?

There's two sides to me I guess. There's a side that always wants to be seen as very masculine and dark. When I feel like that I usually want to do a Tom of Finland look or something "gothy" or horror. Then there's another side of me that is super camp. Problem is, I make the ugliest woman ever, so I usually have to fuck it up a bit to make it work.

- Where do you go out? Which clubs do you like and make you feel most yourself at?

Well I used to work a lot in nightlife so I was everywhere, working at every party that would hire me. Now I go out a lot less and make a lot of effort when I do. I never really feel myself when I'm out. But I love Sink the Pink, Dalston Superstore and bars like The Glory and George and Dragon.

- What is the scene like in your home town? Is extreme dressing up a thing there or is it almost unthinkable?

Worthing is very quiet, it's mostly populated by old people so all the teenagers there are very frustrated. I was shouted at in the street for dressing a bit too strangely as an adolescent. The types of stuff I wear out in London would not be appreciated back there. I try not to go back there too much cos when I do I get sad at how "behind" everyone seems.

- Why do you love dressing up? What does it bring?

I didn't use to dress up much, it's mostly been a recent thing. I gave up alcohol and drugs 7 months ago. I wanted to still go out like I used to but I was finding it hard, I was getting nervous and shy. Wearing a costume is an amazing tool to help me feel more confident and helps me become a character.

- Have you had negative responses to your appearance?

Not really. I've heard of queens being abused in the streets and that's terrible. If you're going out in a look try and get a cab and stay in a group.

- And to end on a more positive note, how has dressing up helped you be who you are?

I see a huge difference between who I am with my friends or at home and who I am when I go out. When I go out I tend to become withdrawn because i get nervous. But when I wear a costume I become an alter ego. I can be sassy with people and be silly without needing to drink or do drugs. It's been an amazing release for me.

all images ©OlyInnes

GOLDDIGGERS First Birthday Party

2015-05-05T00:53:00.004+01:00

Hey, it's already been a year since Golddiggers started at club Egg. Seriously? Time went by so fast. The party was loooong, starting at around 2pm and went on and on and...on...till way after midnight.

Who was there? Let's have a look....

Cynth Icorn

Atlantis

Emily Clayton

Eppie Conrad

Luke Harris

Smiley Virus

Carl Illingworth

Antonio Gigliotta

Lewis G Burton

Vinny G Laroche Smiley Virus

Alekssandra and her tits

Alejandro Gocast

Naddy Sane Adrian Rybak

The Roustabouts James Taylor

Luke Harris

Bright Daffodil

promoter Laurence Malice & Rosemary Turner

Jason Summerfield

Hmm ..

Ursula Snakes

Akimbo

Oggy Yordanov

all images ©O.Yordanov 2015

McQueen Savage Beauty at the V&A

2015-04-05T11:32:00.001+01:00

The most anticipated show of the year has finally arrived at London's Victoria and Albert Museum and it's a sold-out event for months ahead.
The much admired British designer who has not just influenced the club kid scene, but was also part of it (we met him first at Fiction back in 2001), is celebrated here with a large exhibition of his most notewordy creations, couture and audio-visual media alike.

The exhibition is the first retrospective of McQueen's work in Europe, and has taken over three of the V&A's galleries with the selection chosen by Costume Institute curator Andrew Bolton. Lee's body of work is arranged thematically, with areas focused on different notions of Romanticism – including gothic, primitivism, nationalism and naturalism.
A recording of McQueen's voice is played in the grey-coloured gallery, where examples of his tailoring and early collections are presented alongside footage of his first catwalk show from 1995. From there you enter the catacomb room, with bone-covered walls and mannequins set into alcoves and clothed in extravagant garments made from synthetic hair and feathers. An egg-shape pool above us is revealing a girl swimming inside. A "cabinet of curiosities" occupies a double-height space, with all four walls covered by niches filled with more than 100 garments and accessories – including collaborations with milliner Philip Treacy and jeweller Shaun Leane. In the centre, a dress that was spray-painted live by two robotic arms slowly rotates as the model did during its original '99 presentation. Another highight is the glass pyramid inside which the incredible hologram display of Kate Moss is played in its entirety, the amazing displays of his Voss and Horn Of Plenty collections. It's a walk down memory lane for many of us who remember these eponymous collections. His last collection naturally closes the show and leaves you kind of wanting more, which is meticulously achieved by a surpirse room - the gallery shop. It's full of cards, prints, little objects, accessories, scarves (for £360 plus) and plenty of other stuff, most of which perfectly unnecessary, beautifully arranged and somewhat inviting. It's a treat in which one should only indulge in modesty.

We have an exclusive : 4 tickets for today 7:30pm - a surprise one-off offer available only to 4 of you on first come first serve basis. Inbox for details.

Steve Strange dies at 55, celebrities and friends lead tributes on Twitter in support.

2015-02-12T23:11:00.001+00:00

12 FEBRUARY 2015

Tonight came the sad news that New Romantic Icon and Visage frontman Steve Strange has suffered a heart failure and died in his sleep in hospital in Sharm el-Sheikh, Egypt, where he was spending time since the beginning of the month.

Steve Strange was one of the first people in the late 70s who started the New Romantics movement and encouraged extreme dressing-up as a form of self expression. He started a revolution in the London nightlife with his club Blitz in Covent Garden, where his strict door policy pushed people's creativity. The club was a hotspot for many young art students and musicians and drew the attention of the likes of Mick Jagger, David Bowie and was paramount for bands like Duran Duran, Spandau Ballet and Culture Club who all got their start at the club before finding stardom. He started his own band, Visage, which he formed in 1979 and their breakthrough single Fade To Grey is to this day one of the most iconic themes of the New Romantic era.

Strange's agent, Pete Bassett, said that the singer would be remembered as a "hard-working, very amusing and lovable individual who always was at the forefront of fashion trends". He added: "Up until last year he was putting together a book of fashion styles based on the New Romantic movement and it comes as a great shock. We understood that he had certain health problems but nothing we knew was life threatening. His friends and family are totally shocked, we had no idea anything like this was likely to happen. If you're out tonight, pour one out for one of the leading faces of British club culture.

He will be missed and remembered by many, evident from the immediate twitter response to the sad news:

This was his last tweet, just over a week before his passing

Gareth Pugh celebrates 10 years and a return to London Fashion Week

2015-02-11T18:49:00.001+00:00

11 February 2015

Today saw the opening of a retrospective display of Gareth Pugh at the Galleria Melissa in Covent Garden. Pugh's will be the first installation in the footwear brand's gallery space, which opened just last October. This year marks the designer's 10 year anniversary and the decision to exhibit at the Melissa spacious showrooms makes perfect sense since he collaborated with the eponymous Brazilian shoemaker a few years back. What is most exciting about this exhibit is that it happens in London. Pugh first showed at London Fashion Week in February 2005 and since then has collaborated with Nick Knight' Showstudio on numerous projects and subsequently with Knight’s former assistant Ruth Hogben, with whom they championed fashion film as a medium (his Paris shows in A/W 2009 and S/S 2011 were presented in the form of moving images which went viral and set a trend for the medium).

After many years of showing mainly in Paris and New York, he has just announced that this year he will be returning to London Fashion Week for a first time in 10 years. The somewhat nano display (containing just 9 outfits) at the Melissa Galleria is just a fraction of his most memorable designs, some of which were made popular by the likes of Kylie and Beyoncé.
It is refreshing to see that Mr Pugh has decided to show his new collection here in London, where he lives and works, it makes sense really, especially after such a long absence. Few would remember the first designs that propelled Pugh to his current status of avant-garde master. His first collection was largely influenced by the club kids culture and their typical love for oversized pieces, circular shapes and his use of balloons or plastics in various forms, exaggerating and distorting the body shape, not too dissimilar to Leigh Bowery's body of work. After a couple of Bowery-esque collections, Pugh took a more geometrical and monochromic approach to fashion and was able to shake off the early comparisons with Leigh.

I first met Gareth Pugh a few years ago when I was working on my book about the London Club-Kids scene. After a quick chat about the scene, I suggested that he write a short quote for the book because many of the new club kids were in awe with his work. He didn't decline right away, but having managed to divert from the scene and finally achieved the recognition he craved, it was obvious that he didn't want to be associated with that scene. In the weeks that followed our meeting my emails to him hit a rock and it was clear that he would not have his name put in the same sentence with the term Club Kid ever again...I beg to differ.

The Youth Club in the form of a blog called Uth zine

2015-01-09T16:06:00.001+00:00

Recently we spotted a new blog dedicated to all of you young rebels out there.

It is called Uth zine and is a dynamic youth culture webzine showcasing a diverse body of photographic and written talent from within the extensive archive of YOUTH CLUB, PYMCA and beyond.

UTH ZINE is a submission led platform, encouraging collaboration from photographers, artists, musicians and writers contributing around the area of youth culture and we like it, so go check it out : http://www.uthzine.com/

The Legend of Leigh Bowery. ..

2014-12-30T17:29:00.000+00:00

A timely reminder of the legend that is Leigh Bowery

Short film on Voguing by British filmmaker Jenn Nkiru

2014-05-08T03:10:00.002+01:00

And back on the topic of Ballroom and Voguing, we have this thrilling new short film to unveil to you peeps.

It's the first part of a series by new British Director Jenn Nkiru with the obvious title EN VOGUE.

A high-concept in your face experimental short film showcasing the unique beauty, energy & exuberance of one of NYC's last underground subcultures: Voguing & Ballroom.

The film was written, produced and directed by British filmmaker Jenn Nkiru with cinematography from Bradford Young (Ain’t Them Bodies Saints, Pariah, Restless City, Middle of Nowhere, Mother of George) and second unit photography from Arthur Jafa (Eyes Wide Shut, Daughters of the Dust, Crooklyn). Filming was completed in summer 2013 in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, New York City with post-production finalised in March 2014 between Final Cut Studios and Color Collective NY in London and New York City.

The dancers and personalities featured in the film hail from the Legendary Houses of Ninja, Mizrahi, Labeija, Garçon, Xtravaganza, Mugler, Lanvin, Prodigy and Evisu. NYC entertainment personality and Broadway singer/actor, Dwayne Milan plays a leading role. Choreography comes courtesy of Danielle Polanco (Beyoncé, Janet Jackson, Lady Gaga, JLo) with prominent DJ/Producer MikeQ (Qween Beat Productions / Fade To Mind Records) serving as the music composer for the film.

With the production of En Vogue, Jenn Nkiru is gearing up to release a project that is “dreamlike, poetic and visually arresting.”

“This is realness. This film is art in motion– it’s performance/video art. It’s experimental, authentic and nothing like the channel has seen before. It’s special– it’s different,” says Nkiru.

Ahead of its broadcast release, En Vogue has already been picked up by the Sheffield International Documentary Film Festival as an official selection and by the newly formed Curzon Home Cinemas, who have picked up the film under an exclusive license during the month of June 2014.

Further news and info on Jenn Nkiru and En Vogue can be found at: www.JennNkiru.com

JAMES ST JAMES - Words of Advice to Michael Alig in an Open Letter

2014-05-08T02:50:00.001+01:00

Having been released from jail just 3 days ago, Michael Alig needn't worry about getting his head roud the modern tech-world or catching up on new trends. His buddy James St James has kindly offered a comprehensive guidance in the form of an open letter (published by WorldOfWonder ) where he points out the do's and dont's of today's society.

It goes like this:

"Dear Michael, It’s a very different world you’re re-entering into. So much has changed in the 17 years since you last walked among us. For instance: We have talking pictures now! And cronuts! Boys are cuter in the 21st century. And dicks are bigger. These are facts. If you don’t believe me, spend an hour on Tumblr.

Another odd thing: EVERYBODY has killer style now. Kids in Peoria are as fabulous as the kids in Williamsburg. It’s all rather dizzying, and kind of depressing. When everybody is fabulous, nobody is.

OMG. Burger King changed their french fries and the world has never been the same.
Cabs take credit cards now....

Viral videos, blogs, GIFs, memes – there’s a whole world waiting for you online. But the internet is a scary place. Things get weird fast. I suggest dipping your feet in slowly. Gently… Technology develops at light speed now, you don’t want to get left behind.

You NEED a smart phone, a computer, a DVR, and a tablet. There are no two ways around this. And be sure to keep up on all the latest upgrades and gadgets. You don’t want to be like me. I still have an iphone 4. Its calculator is an abacus. My Grindr only has Pilgrims in my area who want to hook up. It’s OLD.
Things we don’t need any more: Phone books, dictionaries, maps, and encyclopedias. They’re all in your phone. IT’S CRAZY.
Things it takes awhile to get used to not needing anymore: Photographs, books, and newspapers. You’ll fight this, but eventually you’ll succumb. It’s a paperless world now. Adapt or die.
You aren’t going to believe this one: Clubs play top 40 now. Rihanna, Britney, Katy Perry.
That’s it. It’s very sad. The scene has changed.
Now, it’s just a thousand shrieking girls taking selfies and dancing to “Wake Me Up” by Aviccii.
95% of your time in any given club will be spent having your picture taken.

Seriously. It’s. All. You. Do.
Picture after picture after picture.
Smile. Snap.
Smile. Snap.
Until you want to snap someone's head off.

Speaking of clubs: You’ve become a bit of a legend since you went in (YOU’RE WELCOME) and you WILL stop the room the first few times you go out. It’s an odd sensation, but even odder is when it doesn’t happen. See, you’re old now, and although many of this generation were raised on Party Monster, sometimes you’ll find yourself in a room where everybody is completely CLUELESS. They’ve never seen the Geraldos or Phil Donahues or Jenny Joneses. They’ve never heard of Angel. They don’t know or care who Julie Jewels was. They don’t even know who Andy Warhol was. A 21-year-old at WOW had never heard of Moby. MOBY. It’s weird. The generation that has the greatest access to knowledge in the history of mankind is the one that cares the least about it. So there will be places where you go where NOBODY WILL RECOGNIZE YOU and NOBODY WILL CARE. And because you are no longer a cute little twink, 20-somethings will LOOK RIGHT THROUGH YOU. Or worse: SNEER at the old man. Joy Behar once said that after 35 nobody looks at you on the beach anymore, no matter how good you look. It’s true. And it’s true everywhere.
My point: Enjoy the times people recognize you, because not being recognized when your old SUUUUUUUCKS.
You’re going to need to download the following apps ASAP: Grindr, Scruff, Jack’D, Uber, Snapchat, Vine, Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter, Instagram, spotify, Wikipedia, Moviephone, IMDB, HuluPlus, Fruit Ninja, and Angry Birds (dated, yes, but you need to catch up)…
A crash course on social media platforms:Facebook is where you find people you went to high school with who now own pretend farms.
Instagram is all the people you avoid at parties posting pictures of their breakfast.
Twitter is just people you don’t know making pithy comments about serious subjects they know nothing about.
Pinterest is where morbidly obese cat ladies pin pictures of what Katniss would wear.
Tumblr is micro-blogging + gay porn for tweens.
And Vine is always just sx seconds of extreme torture.
Haterz gonna hate, of course, but the worst of the worst are YouTube commenters and Redditors. You have been warned.
Stay away from Beliebers, Little Monsters, and Directioners. They make holocaust deniers seem well-reasoned. And they will cut a bitch if you cross them.

Breaking Bad. You need to Netflix that shit NOW. (Also on your to-do list: Get Netflix.)
Movies. I was thinking of starting a #MoviesMichaelNeedstoSee on Twitter, because I can’t possibly list 18 years worth of important, life-altering movies off the top of my head, but here’s where to start: Donnie Darko, Bully, Gummo, Mysterious Skin, Blair Witch, Election, Jaw Breaker, Y Tu Mama Tambien, Apt Pupil, Hedwig, Spring Breakers, Funny Games, Happiness, The Rules of Attraction, American Psycho, Boys Don’t Cry, Velvet Goldmine, Fight Club, Bad Santa, Scream, The Ice Storm, Boogie Nights, Igby Goes Down, Rushmore, Die Mommy Die, Last Days of Disco, AI, Lost Highway, 28 Days Later, Pan’s Labyrinth, District 9, Capturing the Friedmans… and on.
Funny side note: Drug dealers almost always have Party Monster on. Or Kill Bill Volume 2. Literally WITHOUT FAIL. Every drug dealer’s apartment you will ever go to (and I’m not advising you to got to any… but) there they are. There YOU are. On a loop.
Drugs. Omg, there are so many new drugs that I’m advising you not to do. You can’t, of course, because you’re on A SPIRITUALLY ENLIGHTENED PATH now – planting trees in Angel’s name and building homes for orphans and whatnot. The last thing we need is for you to chew off some hobo’s face while high on bath salts. But there’s a WORLD of new synthetic drugs you should AT LEAST be aware of: K2, Salvio, Meow Meow…OH. There is ONE drug that you really OUGHT TO TRY. You’ll just love it, I know it.NO SIDE EFFECTS. And NO ONE WILL EVER KNOW you’ve done it.It’s called krocodil.
Really, Michael, I’m just going to get a tiny, little gram of krokodil as a getting out present…. Thank me later.Well. That should get you started.
All my best wishes for you’re newly rehabilitated life. Enjoy the new millennia, it’s been waiting for you

xxxJames St James"

In reality, Michael Alig has not been completely out of the loop and his twitter account has been alive and active for a while, gathering a considerable following of 25K followers thanks to Esther Haynes, who has been posting tweets for him, like this one, posted just on the day of his release:

And jail wasn't a completely isolated affair. As we see, Michael has been following reality tv (hopefully for the educating factor) if we are to judge by this tweet from 2 days ago

This prompted our next post: The 20 Funniest Tweets from Michael Alig's Prison Time

(click the link to read)

More on the topic: check this: www.papermag.com/2014/04/whats_next_for_michael_alig.php

THE 20 FUNNIEST TWEETS FROM MICHAEL ALIG'S PRISON LIFE

2014-05-08T02:49:00.001+01:00

Following our post about the recent release of Michael Alig from jail, we found some of his tweets as an inmate quite hilarious really. Here is our top 20:

BALLROOM SCENE - Terminology

2014-03-31T16:10:00.000+01:00

For those who wandered about the terminology of my previous post, here is an insight into the lingo of the Ballroom scene.

TERMINOLOGY OF THE BALLROOM SCENE IN BRIEF:

HOUSE - a literal re-creation of "home" - in the sense that these groups became real-life families for individuals that might have been exiled from their birth homes.
Femme Queens - preoperative male to female transsexuals, often known for their alluring beauty and uncanny "realness."
Butches - a term used to describe either aggressive lesbian women or female-to-male transsexuals.
The term "woman" - only reserved for either heterosexual, biologically born women or feminine lesbians that did not identify with the "butch" title.
"Trade" - describes men whose sexuality might have been in question even if their masculinity was not.
"Butch Queens" - a term used to describe any biologically born male that presented himself of as male, "Butch Queens Up in Drag" on the other hand came to signify gay men who dressed in drag specifically for the balls, but still lived his everyday life as a man.
Old way is characterized by the formation of lines, symmetry, and precision in the execution of formations with graceful, fluid-like action. Egyptian hieroglyphs and fashion poses serve as the original inspirations for old way voguing. In its purest, historical form, old way vogue is a duel between two rivals.
New way is characterized by rigid movements coupled with "clicks" (limb contortions at the joints) and "arms control" (hand and wrist illusions, which sometimes includes tutting and locking). New way can also be described as a modified form of mime in which imaginary geometric shapes, such as a box, are introduced during motion and moved progressively around the dancer's body to display the dancer's dexterity and memory. New way involves incredible flexibility.
Vogue Fem (the spelling being an English appropriation to fr. femme, feminine) is fluidity at its most extreme with exaggerated feminine movements influenced by ballet and modern dance. Styles of Vogue Fem performance range from Dramatics (which emphasizes stunts, tricks, and speed) to Soft and Cunt (which emphasizes a graceful, beautiful, easy flow).

There are five elements of Vogue Fem: hand performance, catwalk, duckwalk, floor performance, and spins and dips. When competing in a Vogue Fem battle, contestants should showcase all five elements in an entertaining fashion.

Hand performance refers to the illusions and movements of the arms, wrists, hands, and fingers.
The catwalk is the upright sashaying in a linear fashion.
The duckwalk refers to the crouched, squatted, foot-kicking and scooting movements requiring balance on the balls of the feet.
Floor performance refers to the movements done on the floor using primarily the legs, knees, and back.
The dip is the fall, drop, or descent backward onto one's back with one's leg folded underneath. Mainstream dance forms popularized the dip, which is occasionally called the "death drop" when done in dramatics style. Due to popular media, the dip is sometimes incorrectly termed the "5000", "shablam", and "shabam"; such misnomers likely stem from older commentators chanting the word "shawam" when a voguer successfully completed a dip.

Notes on Voguing

2014-03-31T16:02:00.000+01:00

Many people know about it, some are Voguers themselves, others are already over it, but to many Voguing is still a relatively unfamiliar term. There are many an article written about it and I will try to point them out here.

First, how it all started? Where and when....

As any other underground movement/subculture, Voguing was born as an answer to socio-political pressures on a group of individuals. In this case particularly black and latin LGBT communities in Chicago and New York.
The correct term to use, we should point out, is actually Ballroom (or simply Ball) Scene. Voguing is the main style of this scene, but not the only one as we will see further on.
It is widely considered that Voguing dates back to late 70s and took its name from Vogue magazine, as the competing dancers would flip to pictures of models posing, and imitate them, trying to outdo each other in the process. This really refers to Voguing as a style and attitude, but many will argue that the true birth of the ballroom scene is to be traced back to the notorious culture of Harlem drag balls in 1920s and 1930s New York. (ref: http://www.wiretapmag.org/arts/43120 and http://thequietus.com/articles/07990-vogue-voguing-soul-jazz-chantal-regnault) and other claims even go further to suggest that the scene was born in Chicago as early as 1900s (ref: http://gapersblock.com/ac/2011/01/21/strike-a-pose-underground-gay-balls-chicago/ )
To define Ballroom, it is really a competition where different teams, called HOUSES perform against each other in various categories such as Fasion, Dance, Runway, Modelling, Face, Creativity and more. If the early balls were diverse, they were also very much white owned. This changed in the sixties, when Harlem's gay black community staged its own events. It wasn't until the following decade that the 'Houses' that supported the balls became formalized. In 1977 an imperious, elegant queen named Crystal LaBeija announced that a ball she'd helped put together was being given by the House of LaBeija, as in House of Chanel or House of Dior and the trend was formed. (ref: Michael Cunningham).

As the movement developed, it incorporated other forms of dance such as Waacking (high speed arm movements and hand gestures) and body popping. Largely an underground movement, it became relatively big trend by the end of the 80s when it suddenly experienced a mainstream breakout moment in the early '90s, when first Malcolm McLaren's 1989 release "Deep in Vogue" climbed the dance charts and then Madonna's take on "Vogue" became a blockbuster pop hit. Perhaps you've also heard of Masters at Work’s 1991 classic “The Ha Dance” which is one major source for sampling for most of the New Way voguing sound. Then we had Jennie Livingston's 1990 documentary "Paris is Burning" which is a great film, argues houseofdiabolique.com "but not one that does its subject justice. There is more to the ballroom scene than chopping, mopping, "fierceness" and shade; and there is more to voguing than striking a pose. As for Drag, it is a form of control. By looking good one can feel good. By looking powerful, one can feel powerful. One can be powerful. Therefore, beauty begets control.

Today, ballroom culture and voguing has become an integral part of the black gay urban experience. Voguing culture has evolved. It's riding a new wave of exposure, through thousands of fan-posted YouTube videos, the massive viral reception that accompanied the five-member Vogue Evolution team's televised run on America's Best Dance Crew in 2009, and Willow Smith's "Whip My Hair" video, which features Leiomy of Vogue Evolution and centers on her signature "Leiomy Lolly" hair-whip dance move, also co-opted by Britney Spears and Beyonce. We've seen Kelly Rowland throwing shapes in more than one recent videos while the likes of Azealia Banks are coming up with soe sick beats - voguing style of cource. Lately, less formal groups of young voguers called kiki houses are springing up alongside the established houses. A more aggressive style of voguing has taken over, as "vogue fem" (or "vogue femme") continues to dominate the floor. Like most styles of dance, Vogue Fem is more about a look and feel than a hard-and-fast set of rules. It can encompass ultra-feminine, ballet-like "soft and cunty" movements on the one end, and hyperactive, stunt-driven "dramatics" on the other. Wild hair tosses, heart-stopping drops, and angled twirls became the vogue fem hallmarks. With the new style, dancers began to gravitate towards nervier, more anxious music with sharp orchestra hits, cascades of percussive crashes, and super-choppy samples. The gracefulness and glamorous poses of the Old Way [generally accepted division into Old Way (pre-1990) and New Way (post-1990)] made room for more attention-grabbing moves, and the amped-up speed garage sound of the new tracks wouldn't feel out of place on contemporary dance labels like Night Slugs or Fool's Gold."

But let's look back at the visual documentaries that turned the focus of the new generations to the legacy of Voguing and contributed to its revival of late. "Paris Is Burning" has introduced a wide audience to the language, style, music and culture of voguing. The 2005 documentary "How Do I Look" acts as a kind of riposte to Paris Is Burning, going further into ballroom culture and featuring some Paris Is Burning cast members who felt they weren't portrayed fairly. The main source for modern ballroom footage is unquestionably the YouTube channel Ballroom Throwbacks (recommended to us by Niall Connolly) , which has been grabbing and uploading candid footage of modern balls for a few years now. Also worth watching is The Luna Show, in which Butch Queen Face legend Luna Khan hosts some great short interviews with many stars of the ballroom scene.

As far as reading goes, the main books dedicated to the scene are:
Voguing And The House Ballroom Scene Of New York City 1989-92 - an excellent coffee table book produced by Soul Jazz, this time on the House Ballroom scene of New York as documented by Chantal Regnault

Legendary: Inside the House Ballroom Scene - Gerard H. Gaskin's radiant colour and black-and-white photographs take us inside the culture of house balls. Comprised of photos taken at balls events in New York, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C., is a collaboration between Gaskin, a camera-laden outsider who has been attending balls for twenty years

Sources and further read:

http://boingboing.net/2013/03/06/ballroom.html
http://www.xlr8r.com/features/2011/04/strictly-ballroom-after-decades-
http://www.houseofdiabolique.com/runway.htm (with free music download links)
http://www.redbullmusicacademy.com/magazine/vogue-ballroom-vivian-host
http://thequietus.com/articles/13812-vogue-ballroom-cultural-appropriation-niallist
http://www.wiretapmag.org/arts/43120
http://harlembespoke.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/remember-vogueing-originated-in-harlem.html

Fashion Galore : in memory of Isabella Blow

2013-11-20T07:05:00.001+00:00

Since Showstudio opened the new wing of Somerset House just over four years ago, it kick-started the trend of showcasing the most important fashion talent of our time. That trend continues today with the opening of their latest must-see show "Fashion Galore". It celebrates one of the most important visionaries in recent history, the late Isabella Blow and features highlights of her extensive (and rather exuberant) wardrobe. Expect to be immersed in a world dominated by wonderful creations by her friends Philip Treacy and Alexander McQueen, numerous hats and avant garde head pieces and as many frocks and gowns and one-off designer dresses that offer a feast to the eyes and feed the imagination of any viewer.

Last night's private view of the exhibition proved how loved and respected Isabella actually was. Despite her disbelief in our appreciation, Isabella was an icon for every club kid or fashion student in London and around the world and last night's launch saw over 200 guests, some of whom close friends and family, many of her peers, fashion insiders, designers and editors, all raising a toast in her memory with a slight air of sadness still, for her passing was rarher premature.
The guestlist (which included pictures next to each name as I discovered) included pretty much every important person of the London social/fashion scene i e: Grace Jones, Honor Frazer, Henry Holland, Stephen Jones, Duran Duran's Nick Rhodes, Princess Beatrice of York, Stella Tenant, Mary J Blige, Nick Knight, Philip Treacy, Daphne Guiness, Liberty Ross and Boy George to name but a few. Canopies were being served from a bird cage with two crows on each side and the cocktails were coming from every direction.
The show itself is a real treat with a healthy mixture of video footage from her personal archive, photographs and of course the fashion collection which was aquired and preserved by her friend and fashion icon Daphne Guiness. On display are also some of her most memorable editorial spreads, collaborations with some of the greatest photographers like Steven Meisel, David Lachapelle and Sean Ellis.

Isabella' s sister Lavinia

Make a note in your diary, the show is opening today. Whether you will be looking for an inspiration for your next outfit or just looking out for a creative spark, you do not want to miss this show.

©OggyYordanov

As Seen In Blitz - book launch

2013-05-13T19:44:00.001+01:00

Some of you might have already seen the new book "As seen in Blitz" dedicated to the hayday of the Blitz movement when the now cult magazine was the hip must-read of a whole generation. The book features a detailed insight into the most memorable content of the Blitz Magazine. In celebration of the launch of the book, the Institute of Contemporary Arts in London is throwing a glitzy launch party (by invite or ticket only) and here is the memo:

We're Not Here To Sell Clothes: The Making of BLITZ Fashion

18 May 2013 - 19 May 2013 - We are delighted to celebrate the launch of Iain R. Webb's new book As Seen in BLITZ: Fashioning '80s Style with a series of special events. Over the weekend there is a pop-up show in the ICA Theatre curated by former fashion editor Iain R Webb, a series of talks with special guests, and film screenings. As Seen in BLITZ: Fashioning '80s Style focuses on 1980s style and culture and includes a wealth of stunning visuals, text and interviews celebrating the deeply influential pages of BLITZ. In London at the start of the 1980s, three new style magazines emerged to define an era. It was a time of change: post punk before the digital age and at the dawn of a hedonistic club scene that saw the birth of the New Romantics. On the pages of BLITZ, The Face and i-D, a new breed of young iconoclasts hoped to inspire revolution. As BLITZ magazine's fashion editor from 1982-87, Iain R. Webb was at the centre of this world. His images manipulated fashion to explore ideas of transformation, beauty, glamour and sex. The magazine's arresting, subversive fashion pages, and its profiles of disparate designers and creative types, let the imagination run free.The cast of characters and contributors include Leigh Bowery, Amanda Cazalet, Boy George, Princess Julia, Nick Knight, David LaChapelle, Paul Morley and Anna Piaggi. Featured designers include Bodymap, Judy Blame, Dean Bright, Comme Des Garçons, Jasper Conran, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Katharine Hamnett, Hermès, Pam Hogg, Marc Jacobs, Stephen Jones, Calvin Klein, Andrew Logan, Issey Miyake, Franco Moschino, Rifat Ozbek, Antony Price and Vivienne Westwood.'We're thrilled to be hosting the launch of As Seen in BLITZ. It's incredible to think who passed through the pages of BLITZ magazine - Malcolm McLaren, Madonna, Daniel Day-Lewis... I couldn't have survived the 80s without it.'
Gregor Muir, Executive Director, ICA

You can try booking your ticket here: http://www.ica.org.uk/37313/Talks/A-Weekend-with-BLITZ-Magazine.html?utm_source=Blitz+PV&utm_campaign=9f8e27a0f9-Blitz_Mag4_10_2013&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_9c96fa0287-9f8e27a0f9-413170333#booktickets

"Isabella Blow : Fashion Galore" soon at Somerset House

2013-05-08T22:16:00.001+01:00

image by Steven Meisel

So, it's finally official - "Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!" is the next big event to add to your diaries peeps. The exhibition has been organized by the Isabella Blow Foundation and Central Saint Martins and will showcase more than 100 pieces from her collection. Curated by Alistair O'Neill and Shonagh Marshall, the show will be organized by theme and will spotlight Blow's aristocratic background; her early relationship with then fashion students Alexander McQueen and Philip Treacy; her massive hat collection; and her love of the British countryside.

image by Miguel Reveriego

Daphne Guinness, a longtime friend who purchased Blow's wardrobe after her death in 2007 is the main contributor to the show and described it as a "bittersweet event" for her. Issy, who was an important figure in fashion and nurtured many a new talent, committed suicide at age 48 after years of battling depression. Daphne Guinness was her friend and is also the founder of the Isabella Blow Foundation, which raises money to promote fashion, and to encourage young and aspiring talent. It also funds selected charities that promote mental wellbeing.

"She made our world more vivid, trailing color with every pace she took." - Guinness said. "I do believe that in choosing to exhibit them we've done the right thing — and that it is what she would have wanted. I am doing this in memory of a dear friend, in the hope that her legacy may continue to aid and inspire generations of designers to come."

Among the labels featured in the show, in addition to the obvious McQueen and Treacy, are Jeremy Scott, Julien Macdonald, Viktor & Rolf, Fendi, Escada, Prada, and Marni. Heath has created bespoke Blow mannequins that will wear full outfits once donned by the late fashion stylist and muse.McQueen's entire spring/summer 2008 collection, La Dame Bleue, which the designer and Treacy dedicated to Blow, will also be on show.

The show is to run from end of November this year to March 2014.

Club to Catwalk with Ziad Ghanem on LFW AW13

2013-02-20T02:55:00.001+00:00

Club Kids fashion once again made it from the club into the catwalk on one of the last shows of this fashion week when Ziad Ghanem presented his latest collection last night. Painted faces paired with big volumed dresses, matadors dancing with kinky burlesques... such was the extravagant 'guest list' strutting his catwalk. Appropriately called 'Candy Darling?' this collection naturally drew a line from Warhol to the allfuence of today's Pop Art revival. An esctatic, colourful feast to the eye.

Every fashion week offers direct references to the exuberant nightlife style of the club capital that is London. Ziad has always been true to this influence since he started 10 years ago. Not only in his pieces, but even with the choice of models, predominantly club personalities, who grace our party scene in their everyday life : club hosts, socialites, artists and dancers. What a great end to yet another great fashion week.

Leigh Bowery Book...

2013-01-31T22:47:00.001+00:00

Watch Sue Tilley talk about Leigh Bowery in which she depicted the extraordinary life and talent of possibly the most outrageous and creative of all club kids to date. Recommended by my friend Phillip Salon, this book ispired me and opened my eyes to the genius of Leigh back in the day and I passionately urge everyone :

Find it. Get it. Read it.

Laterz!

Oggs

A brief look into the Club Kid scene in 2013

2013-01-18T11:15:00.001+00:00

And so we entered into the new year with a little sadness in our hearts about our shrinking Club Kid scene. The decade of the Noughties which saw the full-on revival of the dressing-up as a norm is now behind us and the vibes that were firing our tastes for all things 80s are muted and almost dried down, which means the club kid scene will go into another ice age until a future generation re-discovers the thrills and tribulations of this artistic subculture that painted the town red to black and every colour in between.
With fewer parties dedicated to the dressers, we will be reporting less about the nightlife and more about the culture and the legacy this scene has left for generations to follow.

For a start, in 2013 we will experience one of the biggest retrospectives of the Club Kid scene which be accomodated by the grandeur Victoria & Albert Museum and will open in the summer. The show, titled Club to Catwalk will explore the loud and striking fashion of the ’80s. As I tried many times in my blogs and through my book to make a point about the inspiration that the Club Kid subculture has contributed to world fashion, we will at last experience that true recognition, somewhat long overdue. The show promises to include everything from original club kids Leigh Bowery and Boy George to the work of designers like John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Katherine Hamnett. Curator Claire Wilcox is also hoping to include a collection of one-off custom denim jackets that were originally created as part of a V&A collaboration in the ’80s. They’ve already found several of the original jackets, including ones created by Zandra Rhodes, Paul Smith, Jasper Conran, Betty Jackson and Jean Muir and are still looking.

More on the subject will be reported as we come closer to the date, watch this space.

David Bowie is... at the V&A

2013-01-18T10:16:00.001+00:00

The most exciting exhibition of 2013 will be the David Bowie show at Victoria and Albert Museum.

Titled David Bowie Is this show opens on 23.March and promises unprecedented access to the David Bowie Archive which will be the first international retrospective of the extraordinary career of David Bowie - one of the most pioneering and influential performers of modern times. David Bowie is will explore the creative processes of Bowie as a musical innovator and cultural icon, tracing his shifting style and sustained reinvention across five decades.The V&A’s Theatre and Performance curators, Victoria Broackes and Geoffrey Marsh have selected more than 300 objects that will be brought together for the very first time. They include handwritten lyrics, original costumes, fashion, photography, film, music videos, set designs, Bowie’s own instruments and album artwork.The exhibition will explore the broad range of Bowie’s collaborations with artists and designers in the fields of fashion, sound, graphics, theatre, art and film. On display will be more than 300 objects including Ziggy Stardust bodysuits (1972) designed by Freddie Burretti, photography by Brian Duffy; album sleeve artwork by Guy Peellaert and Edward Bell; visual excerpts from films and live performances including The Man Who Fell to Earth, music videos such as Boys Keep Swinging and set designs created for the Diamond Dogs tour (1974). Alongside these will be more personal items such as never-before-seen storyboards, handwritten set lists and lyrics as well as some of Bowie’s own sketches, musical scores and diary entries, revealing the evolution of his creative ideas.

This is probably the most highly anticipated show of 2013 and will co-inside with the release of Bowie's new album "The Next Day" - the first in about 10 years. Earlier this month he released the first single Where Are We Now which was received with great praise by fans and critics alike.

Early bird tickets for the exhibition are available HERE

Kylie launches her new book with a glitzy party

2012-11-30T03:50:00.001+00:00

On Wednesday 28.Nov was the launch of Kylie's new book at the fabulous Penthouse at Harrods and it was very much a private affair. Only a handful of Harrods invertors, some of the publisher's trustees and a few friends and industry professionals formed the guestlist of this exclusive event taking place after closing hours.

Looking dazzling in a bright-yellow Stella McCartney tassels-rich dress and those signature salmon-pink Loboutins, Kylie graced the dancefloor and made an effort to speak to all guests like a true host. There were lots of giggles, hugs and photos going on in the room, I had a high-five moment with the princess for my support of Movember and some warm words of admiration were exchanged with designer Gareth Pugh

who is responsible for this amazing look taken from the new book.
Close friend Jeff Leatham did a fantastic job with the flower arrangement which was in abundance of 7000 red and pink roses and orchids flown in all the way from Holland and there were artisan canopies that we washed down with strawberry daiquiris all carefully selected by Kylie herself. What can I say, whatever she touches exudes sophistication and class.

Kylie and Jeff Leatham

The book is available at all good stores including amazon and has everything you ever need from a career that has spanned 25 years already. Some of her most alternative looks are amongst my favourite, go check it out peeps.

Published by Thames and Hudson and titled "Kylie Fashion" and retails between £20 and £28 in the UK.

Kylie and Oggy Yordanov

In Focus: Achraf Amiri

2012-11-10T00:27:00.000+00:00

Last Thursday Sorapol showcased those freakishly-amazing masks that were featured on his latest show that we covered a few posts ago.

The event took place at Illamasqua store in Soho. The place was transformed into a decadent dressing room, complete with fag-full ashtrays, mirrors with lines of glittery powder, lots of make up and all the necessary night-life accessories.

We caught up with the new it-boy: illustrator and designer of the masks himself - Achraf Amiri, who only moved to London last year and has already made a strong impression on the club-kid scene with his colour-blocking outfits and even more striking art pieces, drawings, short films and an all-round charisma. What was the idea begins the masks?

AA: The idea is how a person form the high society gets drawn into this fantasy world, full of pleasure, hedonistic pursuit and escapes from the real world. Taking the Sorapol medicine, this person is immersed into this other world which is colourful and glamorous.
What exactly is the Sorapol Medicine, I wonder...
AA: It's some herbs, I'd say, mixed with lots of glitter, very colourful and fabulous.
Right, maybe later then, so how long it took to get the masks done?
AA: I worked on these for about 3 days, 8 masks per day, they are all dedicated to different celebrities as such was the brief I received from Sorapol.
Great. Now that this is completed, what's next?
I'm now working on my first magazine project. Of course, it will be full of illustrations, creativity, the pages will be very dynamic, the idea is to inspire other people. I like grotesque, creepy, eerie and that will show on the pages.
Sounds impressive. Watch this space peeps, we will be seeing more of this boy.