Longhairlovers

Acne Miliaris Necrotica

2011-09-09T13:46:00.000-07:00

Acne Necrotica Miliaris is a superficial, non-scarring inflammatory disorder of the hair follicles. It is one of two syndromes that falls under the broader clinical term Acne Miliaris Necrotica (AN), the other being the deeper, scarring Acne Necrotica Varioliformis. Since first being described in 1851, AN has proven to be a rare condition, prevalent among adult males, with chronic symptoms that wax and wane over time.

Both Acne Necrotica Miliaris and Acne Necrotica Varioliformis are characterized by pruritic follicular papule that are often triggered by stress.¹ Patients tend to be men aged 30 to 50, although the lesions have been reported in women and patients younger than 30 who have passed puberty.

Acne Necrotica Miliaris is characterized by minute, intensely itchy pustules on the scalp that may become sore and crusted due to constant scratching.² The lesions may concentrate around the frontal hairline (acne frontalis), but can appear anywhere on the scalp. They also vary in number from just a few to numerous pustules covering the scalp. Additional lesions may be found on the face, neck, chest, or back.³

Acne Necrotica Miliaris affects only the superficial portion of the hair follicle, allowing for hair regrowth following successful treatment, which can include oral antibiotics, topical corticosteroids, and oral isotretinoin, which has shown a rapid reduction of the pruritic lesions.⁴

Acne Necrotica Varioliformis is characterized by erythematous follicular papules that undergo necrosis (or cell death). These deeper lesions may progress to crusting, dry, dark scabs that leave smallpox-like scars (varioliformis) in their wake. Permanent hair loss may occur where the scalp has

been scarred (cicatricial alopecia).

Histological studies of an early lesion show lymphocytes (white blood cells) and plasma cells centered around a central hair follicle. The lymphocytes then fuse into the external root sheath. The keratinocytes within the external root sheath and surrounding epidermis show extensive cell necrosis.⁵

The true etiology, or cause, of AN is unknown, however, it has been postulated that the initial lesions are inflamed hair follicles with Propionibacterium acnes. (Propionibacterium acnes are slow growing anaerobic bacterium which are linked to the skin condition acne.⁶ They are gram positive, which means they stain dark blue or violet with gram staining. Gram positive bacteria generally have a single lipid bilayer called monoderms.)

The lesions may also be caused by an abnormal reaction to the Staphylococcal Aureus Bacteria and the Streptococcal Bacteria, which live on the skin at all times but can cause infection when they enter the body through a cut or other injury. Gram-negative bacteria, which usually originates in the nose following antibiotic treatment for acne, may also be to blame, as is Tinea Capitis (ringworm of the scalp), caused by a fungus that invades the hair shaft. In at least one case, use of the drug phenylbutazone was believed to have caused the syndrome.⁷ In still others, extreme mechanical manipulation of the scalp due to scratching or rubbing patches of underlying folliculitis may be to blame, as are the tiny parasitic mites, demodex folliculorum. However, the most common pathogens found in pustules remain Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes.⁸

Examining the scalp and forehead for past umbilicated scars with a “punched-out” appearance is helpful to the trichologist working toward a diagnosis of AN. In addition, the presence of Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes should be determined in erupting pustules. In the case of Propionibacterium acnes, Isotretinoin should be tried, while in the case of Staphylococcus aureus, anti staph agents and oral tetracyclines may prove successful.⁹

Sources

Dawber, Rodney, Ed., Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, Third Edition, Blackwell Science, Malden, MA, 1997.

DermNetNZ.org

HairScientists.org

Olsen, Elisa A.,Ed., Disorders of Hair Growth, Second Edition, McGraw-Hill, New York, 2003.

Wikipedia.org

1 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 511.

2 DermnetNZ, Scalp Folliculitis, http://dermnetnz.org/acne/scalp-folliculitis.html

3 Olsen, Elisa A., Disorders of Hair Growth, p. 111.

4 Olsen, Elisa A., Disorders of Hair Growth, p. 383.

5 Olsen, Elise A., Disorders of Hair Growth, p. 112.

6 Wikipedia.org, Propionbacterium Acnes, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propionibacterium_acnes

7 Zemite, Inga, http://www.hairscientists.org/acne-miliaris.htm

8 Zemite, Inga, http://www.hairscientists.org/acne-miliaris.htm

9 Zemite, Inga, http://www.hairscientists.org/acne-miliaris.htm

What To Expect When Visiting A Trichologist

2011-06-27T10:57:00.000-07:00

If you were to visit a trichologist complaining of thinning hair, you could expect the following type of examination:

First, the trichologist would gather some personal information including your health history. She would pay particular attention to any health issues you had experienced within the last two to three months including: illnesses, beginning or ending medications, childbirth, breastfeeding, diet, stress, and regular menstrual cycles. She would also ask about your family’s health history and whether your relatives experienced any significant hair loss.

Next, the trichologist would ask how you care for her hair: what types of products you use and how often, whether you chemically process your hair, swim regularly, or wear your hair in any tight hairstyles.

The trichologist would then physically examine your hair and scalp to look for any signs of patchy hair loss, scaling, swelling or redness. Once she had ruled out those symptoms, she would begin to examine you for a condition called diffuse hair loss – thinning caused by hair loss from all over your head.

The trichologist would run her hands over your hair to check for signs of thinning. She would then gently pull on your hair in several different areas to see if it indeed came out easily and in quantity. At the same time, she would ask when you last washed or brushed your hair and explain that it’s perfectly normal to lose up to 150 hairs a day, many of them while shampooing or grooming.

The trichologist would save the hairs she gathered in an envelope marked with the your name while explaining that she would examine them under a microscope after the appointment. She would then take several digital photos of your hair to upload to her computer.

At the end of the initial appointment, the trichologist would explain that she suspected diffuse hair loss (telogen effluvium). She would set you at ease by explaining that you would not go bald with the problem and that she may be able to correct the cause and restore your hair’s thickness. She would schedule a follow-up appointment at which time she would report her findings.

When examining the hairs under a microscope, the trichologist would look to see if there were white bulbs at the ends, indicating telogen hairs (hairs in the “fall out” phase). She would also check for small anagen bulbs (hair in the active growth phase) without root sheaths, which would indicate a condition called loose anagen syndrome. Lastly, she would look for signs of breakage, which could indicate anagen effluvium, or chemical or mechanical damage to the hair.

If the trichologist determined that you were suffering from breakage and appeared to have no outstanding health or nutritional problems, she would recommend gentle care of your hair at home and in the salon, as well as protecting it from UVA/UVB rays.

Breakage due to signs of fungal infection or inherited defects would require further investigation and a gentle explanation that there is no treatment.

If the hairs appeared to have fallen out in the active growth stage (anagen) and you had undergone cancer treatment (radiation and chemotherapy), or may have been exposed to toxins, the trichologist would tell you that the hair loss should stop two to three months after either the treatments stopped or your doctor treated you for toxicity.

If the trichologist suspected any of the following, she would refer you to your physician for a blood test and a complete medical check-up:

Hormonal imbalance
Thyroid problem
Diabetes
Anemia
Lupus
Poisoning from X-rays, pesticides, lead, or mercury
Thrush
Kidney or liver problems.

For more information on Trichology, visit The Trichological Society's website.

Healthy Hair Tools Checklist

2011-06-27T10:43:00.000-07:00

Water softener or filter: This is a must for people with hard water because mineral deposits can build up on your hair, making it dull and prone to damage. The Water Quality Association is a not-for-profit organization with lots of good information on water softeners, filters and purifiers.

Shampoo: Use a mild shampoo that’s free of sulfates and soap. If you have a greasy scalp, there’s no harm in shampooing as often as you need to. Just remember that wet hair is weak and should be handled gently.

Conditioner: Look for professional quality conditioners containing Panthenol, Proteins and Dimethicone, ingredients that cling to the hair shaft, infuse it with moisture and fill in damaged cuticle gaps. You can also massage conditioner containing Panthenol into your scalp to improve the moisture content of hair as soon as it starts to grow.

Leave-in conditioner with sunscreen: A good leave-in conditioner should moisturize hair and make it manageable without weighing it down. Look for ingredients like Benzophenone-4, which protect hair and scalp from the sun, and help preserve your color.

Scalp Massage Oil: To encourage healthy growth, make a massage oil containing essential oils of Lavender, Cedarwood, Rosemary and Thyme. Use 15-30 drops per 2 tablespoons of carrier oil, such as Almond, Sesame, Grape Seed or Jojoba. (Note: be sure you’re buying real essential oils, not just “fragrance oils.” Essential Oils are tiny drops extracted from plant leaves, stems, bark, flowers, roots and fruits. They’re highly concentrated and should never be used without first mixing with a carrier oil.)

Microfiber hair towels: Microfiber hair towels, like those made by Aquis, are super-absorbant and cut down on drying time. Gently blot and squeeze your wet hair with the towel - never rub. You can also wear as a turban to help absorb excess water.

Wide-toothed comb: Look for a wide-toothed comb with smooth, rounded teeth. Any jagged edges will catch on hair and roughen the cuticle.

Cushoned boar bristle brush: Boar or natural bristle brushes are exellent for distributing sebum from your scalp to the hair ends. A rubber cushion has more “give” to it and is easier on hair.

Satin pillow case: To cut down on friction while you sleep, use a satin pillow case instead of cotton or flannel.

Humidifier: If you live in a dry climate or have trouble with static electricity in the winter, a humidifier can help by putting moisture back into the air. You can also simmer a pot of water on the stove to get the same effect.

Flexible accessories: Use accessories that are entirely made of plastic or cellulose acetate. These materials are more bendable than wood, metal, horn or bone, and are gentler on your hair.

Coated elastics: You can find these cheap at any drug store for securing ponytails and braids. Keep a few in your purse for hair emergencies.

Silk Scarves: Instead of wearing a friction-inducing hat, switch to a fancy silk scarf. Your hair will be smoother and have less static, and you’ll look extra-stylish!

Professional-grade scissors: Invest in a pair of very sharp metal scissors for at-home split end trims. You can find them at beauty supply stores and online.

Solutions To Common Hair Problems

2011-06-27T10:39:00.000-07:00

Problem: Why is my hair so lifeless and dull?
Solution: Your hair may be coated by product buildup or mineral deposits from hard water. Try using a clarifying shampoo once a week or make your own vinegar rinse. The acidic vinegar will remove residue and close the cuticle, giving your hair back its shine. Then, be sure to rinse, rinse, and rinse some more to make sure your hair is truly clean. If you suspect you have hard water, do a final rinse with filtered water. Or, better yet, invest in a water softener.

Problem: Why is my hair a frizzy mess?
Solution: Your hair may be frizzy because it’s over-porous. First, test your hair for porosity. If your hair is too porous it means that the cuticle is damaged, allowing too much water into and out of the cortex. This causes the hair shaft to swell up in humid weather but be unable to hold onto the moisture in normal weather. The result is unruly, frizzy hair.

To get your hair back into good condition, apply a series of deep conditioners. Look for products containing Proteins, Dimethicone, and Panthenol. These ingredients help fill in the cuticle gaps, making hair stronger and less porous.

Also treat your hair as gently as possible. If you color or perm, switch to temporary processes. And be especially careful with your hair when it’s wet and most vulnerable to damage. You should notice a change in condition very quickly.

Problem: Why does my hair fall out when I brush or shampoo?
Solution: Hair that comes out in the shower or in your hair brush was at the end of its growth cycle and ready to fall out anyway. Shampooing and brushing doesn’t cause your hair to fall out; they just help loosen the hair from where they’re stuck, either in the rest of your hair or on your scalp. It’s perfectly normal to lose up to 100 hairs each day - all hairs that have reached the end of their growth cycle. If you suspect your hair is truly falling out and you can see patches of scalp or bald areas, be sure to see a dermatologist as soon as possible.

Problem: Why does my hair get so tangled that I can’t get a comb through it?
Solution: Tangles happen when your cuticles are lifted and lock together with other hairs. In shorter hair, you can simply get a hair cut to remove the damaged portions that cause the cuticles to catch on each other. Longer hair doesn’t have that option and must rely on gentle care to prevent further damage. When detangling, be very careful with wet hair that’s weaker and can snap. Use products containing Dimethicone when you detangle to allow your smooth, wide-tooth comb to glide more easily. You can do your best to prevent tangles by reducing friction as much as possible.

Problem: Why can’t I seem to grow my hair past my shoulders?
Solution: Unless your diet is severely deficient in nutrients, your problem may have less to do with your hair’s growth than with breakage. Check your hair’s elasticity and follow those tips for improving the health of your cortex. Also reduce as much friction as you can to help your hair get past the breaking point. Conditioning is key, so massage a leave-in conditioner containing Panthenol into your scalp to moisturize from the inside out.

If you still think the problem is originating with your hair growth, you may want to have a physical to make sure you aren’t deficient in any vitamins or minerals. You can also practice scalp massage to increase circulation to the hair shaft.

Problem: Why won’t my hair take a perm?
Solution: Your hair may be more resistent to taking chemicals because of the strength of your hair’s disulphide bonds. Chemical processes must first break the bonds before going to work on your hair. You may have more bonds to break, which requires stronger chemicals.

Problem: Why do I have shorter hairs around my part and hairline?
Solution: Shorter hairs at your part or hair line are a sure sign of breakage. The breakage may have been caused by a chemical process, rough handling, or by wearing hairstyles that put too much tension on the hair and scalp.

Problem: Why can’t I control my staticky hair in the winter?
Solution: Staticky hair results from a combination of dry air and friction. Try reducing the amount of friction on your hair by wearing a silk scarf instead of a hat outdoors in the winter. Install a humidifier in your home and carry a small bottle of leave-in conditioner with you to smooth through your hair while traveling. The combination of extra moisture and less friction should help solve your static woes.

Problem: I’m about to undergo chemotherapy. Is it possible to prevent hair loss during treatment?
Solution: Chemotherapy drugs are hard on hair because they target rapidly growing cells in the body. These include cancer cells as well as cells responsible for hair growth. Some newer forms of chemo are considere “smart drugs” that target only cancer cells. In addition, some cancer patients who take at least 1000 IU of Vitamin E daily several weeks before chemotherapy have been shown to lose less hair. However, it’s important to talk to your doctor before trying any potential hair-saving remedies before or during chemotherapy.

Problem: My hair is thinning. Can herbs like Dong Quai or Saw Palmetto cure baldness?
Solution: Dong Quai contains phytoestrogens that have been known to stabilize and even reverse genetic hair loss. Scientists believe phytoestrogens work by blocking androgen-receptor sites and reducing the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone, or DHT. (Androgens are produced by the male sex organs and are a major factor in inherited baldness.) Saw Palmetto’s active compounds - free fatty acids and phytosterols - are also thought to reduce the effects of DHT by inhibiting the enzyme 5-alpha reductase that contributes to androgenetic alopecia.

Problem: I want to visit a qualified hair specialist to take a look at my hair. How can I find one?
Solution: A professional trichologist is a certified hair and scalp specialist. He or she can help treat problems and recommend how to grow the healthiest hair possible. To find one in your area, visit The Trichological Society's web site.

Unfortunately, Trichology isn’t as widely practiced in the United States as it is in the U.K., Australia, and Asia. If you can’t find a certified practitioner in your area, it is possible to find a dermatologist who specializes in hair and scalp problems.

Hair Facts

2011-06-27T10:36:00.000-07:00

A human head has an average of 100,000 hair follicles. Blondes have the most at around 140,000 hairs, brunettes have an average of 110,000 and redheads have about 90,000.
Each hair follicle grows a new hair an average of 20 times.
During a baby’s first year of life, all of the hairs on the head grow at the same rate.
Hairs on an adult scalp have different growth cycles.
It’s normal to lose between 50 and 100 hairs each day.
Up to 90% of the hairs on your head is actively growing at any one time.
The number of follicles capable of growing hair declines naturally over the years.
Hair grows approximately ½ inch per month.
Hair is made up of about 97% protein and 3% moisture.
Chemotherapy can cause hair to fall out because the drugs target rapidly growing cells, including cancer cells, hair cells, and cells in the bowel lining.
Excessive shampooing doesn’t cause your hair to fall out. Hair that falls out in the shower was ready to come out on its own, and has already restarted the growth cycle.
There are three types of hairs recognized among humans: Mongoloid (straight, black hair belonging to people with Asian ancestry), Caucasoid (wavy or straight hair ranging in color from black to blonde belonging to people with European and Indian ancestry) and Negroid (black and tightly curled hair belonging to people of African descent).

Styles You Should Avoid For The Sake Of Your Hair

2011-06-27T10:32:00.000-07:00

Wearing the wrong hair style can lead to breakage and even temporary hair loss, called traction alopecia. This hair loss is caused by excessive tension on the hair and scalp and is usually first noticed around the hair line.

Although the hair loss may take years to show up, there are usually early warning signs including redness, swelling, itching, bumps and scales. Thinner, shorter vellus hairs may take the place of longer terminal hairs. Traction alopecia and excessive breakage can easily be avoided when you know which hair styles to steer clear of.

Hairstyles to avoid:

Any style requiring excessive heat. If you straighten or curl your hair every day with heated irons, you could be setting yourself up for serious breakage. Repeatedly heating the hair shaft speeds up the cycle of hair damage: lifting and wearing of the cuticle, exposure of the cortex, splitting and fraying of the hair shaft and finally breakage.
Hair Extensions. Hair extensions continue to grow in popularity because they offer a quick fix: long hair without the wait. They can be applied in a variety of ways - weaving, sewing, heat fusing, gluing, and clamping - all of which can cause serious damage to the scalp and hair you already have. In addition, extensions require constant conditioning since your hair’s natural oils don’t lubricate the foreign hair. If you want long hair, it’s best to take the time to grow your own. But, if you just can’t wait, make sure the person who applies your extensions is a true professional. Don’t be afraid to ask for references - a real professional won’t be offended.
Corn rows and other tight braids. Hair that’s tightly braided either close to, or away from the scalp, are big offenders when it comes to causing traction alopecia. If you love the look of braids, make sure your hair braider goes easy on your scalp. Also, have the braids removed every so often to give your scalp a rest, and be sure to practice massage to keep the scalp muscles loose and the blood circulating.
Tight ponytails and buns. Many ballerinas suffer from traction alopecia because they regularly wear their hair scraped back into tight buns. The best solution is to loosen the style, wear it less often, and practice daily scalp massage to counter the tightness of the hairstyle.

Accessories to avoid:

Metal barrettes. Metal barrettes can literally slice your hair shaft if you wear them too often and in the same spot. Try switching to barettes made completely out of plastic or celluloid acetate, which are more flexible and forgiving on the hair.
Rigid hair sticks & forks. Hair sticks and forks made out of bone, horn, metal or wood don’t have any “give” to them and can cause spot hair loss if worn on the same part of the scalp each day. Once again, it’s best to opt for plastic sticks that bend and adjust to your head’s shape.
Bobby pins. Professionals like nurses and waitresses who secure their hats with bobby pins close to the scalp find they begin to lose their hair in those areas. If you must use pins to secure a hat every day, try to do so loosely and remove them often to give your scalp a break.
Uncoated elastics. Never use a regular rubber band or other uncoated elastic to secure a ponytail or braid. These will stick to the hair, causing all sorts of tangles and breakage when you try to remove them.

A Relaxed Scalp Leads To Healthier Hair

2011-06-27T10:23:00.000-07:00

The scalp isn’t just another area of skin on the body; it has special characteristics that make it hospitable to growing hair.

The scalp has numerous sebaceous glands that produce sebum, a natural oil that lubricates the hair.
The scalp contains the follicles that grow long terminal hairs. At the base of each follicle is the erector pili muscle that causes the hair to “stand on end.”
Skin on the scalp is thicker than on any other part of the body and is directly attached to the epicranius, a major muscle that covers the skull.
Blood circulation to the scalp nourishes the hair follicle and helps it grow healthy hair.

Environmental and emotional stress can cause the scalp muscles to contract, leading to poor blood circulation and headaches. When the nourishing blood supply to the hair follicles is limited, hair may not get the nutrients it needs to grow healthfully.

The best way to keep the scalp muscles loose and the blood flowing is through regular scalp massage.

You don’t need to go to an expensive salon or hire a masseuse to give you regular scalp massages, although it sure would be nice! Instead, you can easily practice do-it-yourself massage that can noticeably improve your hair’s condition and growth.

Put your hands on either side of your head and use your thumbs and fingers to make small circles. Don’t forget to include the forehead and back of the neck. Try to move the skin around as much as you can (without rubbing your hair) to really get the blood flowing.
Grab your hair at the roots and gently tug, then release.
With your hands on either side of your head and hands over your ears, gently squeeze your skull for several seconds then release.

For added relaxation, combine your massage with aromatherapy (a candle, essential oils, incense) and soft music. With regular massage, you should begin to notice a change in your hair’s condition within three months, the time it takes for new hair growth to reach the surface.

Scalp Problems To Watch For

The skin on the scalp is susceptible to redness, scaling and swelling from a variety of conditions. If you notice any of the following symptoms, be sure to contact a dermatologist for treatment.

Psoriasis symptoms: very red skin covered by white scale. Skin bleeds easily when scratched. Treatment options: creams containing tar, salicylic acid, zinc sulphate, anthralin or corticosteroids; ultraviolet (UV) therapy.

Pityriasis Amiantacea symptoms: Thick white scale that clings to the base of the hair. Treatment options: creams containing salicylic acid and tar.

Seborrheic Dermatits (“Cradle Cap” in infants) symptoms: redness, oiliness, greasy yellow scales and itching. Treatment options: frequent shampooing; creams containing sulphur, salicylic acid or resorcinol.

Lichen Simplex symptoms: white scale on a red base, normally located near the nap of the neck. Severe itching. Treatment options: topical steroid creams and camphor.

Dandruff symptoms: non-inflammatory scaling. Treatment options: tar and salicylic acid creams, medicated shampoos.

Tip: The scalp is susceptible to sunburn because it’s the part of your body that’s closest to the sun. Before spending time outdoors, comb a sunscreen product or leave-in conditioner with Benzophenone-4 through your hair, concentrating on the scalp and ears. Better yet, wear a head covering whenever you spend time in direct sunlight.

Natural Hair Color Might Affect Chemical Processes

2011-06-27T10:14:00.000-07:00

Believe it or not, natural redheads often have a harder time taking perms and relaxers than people with other hair colors. The reason has to do with the special hair protein, keratin.

The keratin in naturally red hair contains up to twice as much sulphur as other natural hair colors. This sulphur forms very strong chemical links called disulphide bonds that join the keratin chains together. In fact, disulphide bonds are some of the strongest bonds known to nature.

In order for a perm solution or relaxer to work, it must break the disulphide bonds and soften the keratin. The hair is forced into its new shape, usually with rollers, then a neutralizing lotion is applied to reform the bonds and harden the hair. Since redheads have more disulphide bonds to break, a regular perm solution or relaxer may not be strong enough to reshape the hair.

A stronger solution can be used but should only be applied by a knowledgeable professional. Otherwise, the disulphide bonds could be irreversibly damaged, leading to massive breakage.

What gives hair its color? Cells in the hair bulb called melanocytes produce a pigment called melanin. The melanin is carried into the cortex as the hair grows upward. Phaeomelanin is the name of the pigment found in red and blonde hair; Eumelanin is a darker pigment found in black and brown hair.

On an interesting note...

A new study shows that natural redheads need some 20% more anesthesia during surgery than blondes and brunettes.

Dr. Edwin B. Liem, an anesthesiologist at Louisville’s Outcomes Research Institute, discovered that red hair “is apparently an important element” in the decision of how much anesthesia will safely render a person unconscious while increasing pain tolerance and suppressing memory.

Although Dr. Liem says no one knows exactly why red heads need more anesthesia, he says he gueses that “it’s somehow related to the dysfunctional melanocortin 1 receptor.”

These receptors are responsible for hair color. According to the BBC, “Liem believes a dysfunction of this receptor triggers an increase of the hormone that usually stimulates the cells. This happens to be the very same hormone that stimulates a receptor in the brain that governs pain sensitivity.”

"Redheads are likely to experience more pain from most stimuli — surgery is just one example — and therefore require more anesthesia to alleviate that pain,” Liem says.

So, if you’re a natural redhead, be sure to have a long talk with your anethesiologist before going under the knife!

Water May Be To Blame For Your Hair Woes

2011-06-27T10:12:00.000-07:00

Water that’s too hard can cause serious problems for otherwise healthy hair.

Hard Water can come from well or city water and contains minerals like calcium and magnesium. One sign that you have hard water is if your shampoo doesn’t lather well. Another is if you notice “soap scum” in on the bath tub or shower wall. The mineral deposits can build up on hair, causing it to discolor (taking on a reddish tint) and become brittle, while your scalp can become dry and itchy.

Copper poses trouble for blonde or bleached hair, which can take on a greenish cast. Copper algicides in pools or high levels of copper in water pipes are usually to blame.

Water facts according to the U.S. Geologic Survey:

85% of U.S. homes have hard water.
Hard and very hard waters are found in some of the streams in most of the regions throughout the country. Hardest waters (greater than 1,000 mg/L) are in streams in Texas, New Mexico, Kansas, Arizona, and southern California.
The softest waters occur in parts of the New England, South Atlantic-Gulf, Pacific Northwest, and Hawaii.
Moderately hard waters are common in many of the rivers of the Tennessee, Great Lakes, Pacific Northwest, and Alaska.

Solving your water problems:

Install a water softener. A water softener uses salt or sodium ions to filter out hard water minerals. They are available in both manual and automatic models.

Use a water filter. After washing your hair, use filtered or purified water to perform a final rinse, which may remove some of the mineral deposits. Brita pitchers are excellent for filtering water - plus, you can take them right in the shower with you. (Brita filters are certified to reduce Chlorine, Zinc, Benzene, Cadmium, Copper, Lead, Mercury, Trichloroethylene and Toluene.)

Invest in a “No More Bad Hair Days Kit”. Hair colorist Robert Craig has created a kit that allows you to test your water - even on the road - and use the appropriate products to protect your hair from mineral deposits.

The kit comes with 12 test strips, three shampoos for different water (soft, moderately hard and extremely hard) and a spray on leave-in conditioner.

Simply dip one of the test strips in a sample of water and compare the results to the corresponding colors of the bottles. You can then choose the right shampoo formulated to work in that type of water. For more info, visit RobertCraig.com.

Good Minerals vs. Bad Minerals

The minerals present in hard water have large molecules that leave scales and caked buildup on pipes, as well as your hair. Minerals in hair care products have microfine molecules that may be able to penetrate the scalp and nourish the hair follicles. These “good minerals” include Silicon, Iron, Sulphur and Calcium.

Homeopathy and Hair Growth

2011-06-26T16:01:00.001-07:00

Homeopathy is a 200 year-old system of medicine founded by a German physician, Dr. Samuel Hahnemann. In theory, homeopathic remedies use natural substances to help the body heal itself. Very small doses are used and side effects are rarely reported.

Most homeopathic remedies are tinctures, or alcohol extracts of herbs, minerals and animal sources. One brand particularly marketed for hair growth is Sprayology Hair + Nail Tonic. The company says that a few spritzes under the tongue each day “will help your hair to get healthy, stay healthy and grow faster, all from the inside out.”

One of the most controversial points of homeopathic medicine is how little of the purported healing substance is actually present in the remedy. According to many homeopaths, “less of the original substance means a deeper effect...the higher the number of dilutions, the stronger and deeper the remedy acts.”

The National Council Against Health Fraud says that homeopathy’s principals “have been refuted by the basic sciences of chemistry, physics, pharmacology, and pathology” and that “the marketing of homeopathic products and services fits the definition of quackery established by a United States House of Representatives.”

That said, homeopathy remains a popular holistic practice among those who remind us that acupuncture and vitamin supplements were once considered suspect by the western medical establishment.

Will Pantothenic Acid Supplements Help Hair Growth?

2011-06-26T15:56:00.000-07:00

Nutritionally, Pantothenic Acid is important to healthy hair and skin. As a recognized growth stimulant, the vitamin helps the body metabolize protein, which is the major component of hair.

Although taking extra Pantothenic Acid has not been proved to promote faster or more abundant hair growth, a deficiency can lead to fallout as well as premature graying. Studies have shown that hair fallout and graying in rats is caused by a Pantothenic Acid deficiency.

Deficiencies in humans are rare, however, because pantothenic acid is found in so many foods, including yeast, organ meats (liver, kidney, heart, brain), eggs, milk, vegetables, legumes and whole grains.

In fact, the word, “pantothenic,” comes from the Greek word pantos, meaning “everywhere.” People who eat mostly processed foods, are alcoholic, or who take antibiotics, may experience fatigue, one of the most common symptoms of a Pantothenic Acid deficiency.

Other symptoms can include depression, hypoglycemia, vomiting, abdominal cramps, insomnia, muscle cramps, upper respiratory infections, and tingling feet and hands.

As a water-soluble vitamin, Pantothenic Acid can’t be stored in the body. However, it can be made in the body by bacteria found in human intestines. The recommended daily intake of Pantothenic Acid for adults is 4 to 7 milligrams, although high doses (more than 1,000 mg. daily) have not proved to be toxic. In fact, the only side effect reported after consuming 1,500 mg for several weeks was a sensitivity in teeth. That said, it’s never wise to take more than the recommended dosage or to start a supplement regimen without first consulting your doctor.

Porosity Is The Leading Cause of Hair Breakage

2011-06-26T15:46:00.000-07:00

Porosity is the ability of water to get into and out of the cortex through the cuticle scales. Very healthy hair has intact cuticles that let very little moisture in and out. Hair with a roughed up cuticle that allows water to easily pass in and out of the cortex is over-porous.

A damaged cuticle allows water to swell the cortex, then to seep out when hair dries. This weakens the hair and makes it very dry, causing ends to split when hair is brushed, combed or styled. Once the cuticle is damaged, it will continue to get worse until it the hair breaks off or naturally falls out.

Keep in mind that longer hair is naturally more porous because the ends are “older” and have been exposed to more weathering than shorter hair. This is one of the reasons that longer hair may take color unevenly. (Professional stylists are aware of this and will be able to account for porosity to create even color.)

So, what causes hair to become over-porous? Hair becomes over-porous when the cuticle is lifted and permanently loosened, allowing the inner cortex to become exposed.

This can be caused chemically, through hair color and perms; mechanically, by brushing and blow drying; and environmentally by exposing your hair to wind and UV rays.

It may seem obvious that heavy brushing and overall rough handling can damage your hair. But exactly how do chemical processes do their damage?

In order to permanently color, wave or straighten the hair, the chemicals have to get into the cortex and react with the keratin inside. This is achieved through high temperatures or alkaline lotions. They separate the scales and let the chemicals pass through into the cortex where they deposit color or change the structure of the hair. At the end of the processing, the cuticles close back up. But frequent processing or inexperienced application can cause the scales to remain permanently open.

Keep your hair from becoming over-porous:

Gentle treatment of your hair when brushing, combing and styling is always the first way to cut down on cuticle damage. For women with shoulder-length and longer hair, and especially those who chemically process their hair, I recommend only using a brush when you absolutely must. Instead, invest in a wide-toothed comb that’s perfectly smooth.

Use the comb anytime you would normally use a brush: to detangle, style, or to “comb out” before bed. Be very gentle, and always start combing from the bottom of your hair and work your way up as you undo any snarls. When combing your hair, you’re more likely to take your time instead of tearing through it like you might with a brush.

That’s because a comb won’t slide through tangles, even with a lot of force, like with a brush. You have to gently work out the tangle, which is ultimately better for your hair.

Avoid soap-based shampoos or those containing sulfates. Soap is alkaline, which roughs up the cuticle. (You’ll see the ingredient listed as “saponified oils” of almond, jojoba, olive, etc. Saponification is simply the process of adding sodium or potassium hydroxide – also known as lye or potash – to animal fats or vegetable oils.) The result is an alkaline soap solution that swells and lifts the cuticle. On the chemist’s pH scale, alkalies have numbers greater than 7, while acids have numbers less than 7.

Hair is more on the acidic side, and has an ideal pH of 4.5 to 5.5. When a hair is placed in an alkaline solution (like water and baking soda), the cuticle scales swell and lift, leaving the hair with a rough, dull texture. When hair is placed in a mild acidic solution (water and lemon juice or vinegar), the cuticle is sealed, leaving the hair smooth and shiny.

Bleaches, hair colors, permanents and relaxers are all alkaline solutions that lift the hair’s cuticle to create the desired results.

In addition to roughing up the cuticle, soap-based shampoos also leave filmy deposits behind, which is why hair can appear extra dull after weeks of use. That’s why our great-grandmothers often followed their hair washings with a lemon or vinegar rinse. With a pH of 2, the acid rinses would remove buildup and reseal the hair’s cuticle that had been lifted by the alkaline soap.

Sulfates are detergents that can strip the hair of its natural oils. (Two common sulfates are sodium lauryl sulfate, and sodium laureth sulfate). Look instead for shampoos with gentle surfactants made from amino acids, fatty acids and sugar. Words to look for on the label include Alkyl Polyglucosides, Sucrose, Polyglucose and Glutamate.

Use conditioners containing proteins (Silk Protein, Wheat Protein, etc.) which fill in cuticle gaps and prevent excess moisture from seeping into and out of the cortex.

If you don’t know what you’re doing, have a professional stylist color or perm your hair. Professional stylists know the chemicals they’re working with and how long to leave each one on. A professional can also tell you if your hair is healthy enough to receive a chemical process (see Secret #1) or if you should work on its condition first. If you prefer to color or perm at home, be sure to follow the directions exactly to prevent excessive damage.

Ask your stylist to use a temporary hair color or a semi-permanent texturizer to create soft waves. (ISO Nexture is a new “semi-permanent styling texture treatment” that makes hair wavy and lasts up to 20 shampoos.) Temporary procedures are gentler to the hair because they don’t permanently alter the hair’s structure inside the cortex.

Remember, you can’t heal split ends. The only way to get rid of them is to trim them off with very sharp scissors. If you choose to trim your split ends yourself, invest in a pair of professional-grade scissors from a beauty supply store to ensure a clean cut. If you don’t have time to trim, you can give the impression of healthy ends by applying a silicone serum that temporarily “glues” the frayed ends together. The effect will disappear, though, with your next shampoo.

Friction is One Of Hair's Worst Enemies

2011-06-26T15:33:00.000-07:00

If you have unmanageable, “flyaway” hair or excessive breakage, your problem probably has to do with friction. Whenever you brush or comb your hair, remove a hat or sleep on a cotton pillowcase, you’re creating hair-damaging friction.

Friction can lead to hair breakage because it wears down the cuticle – the hair’s protective outer layer. Friction also causes static electricity charges to build up on your hair. The “charged hairs” repel each other and won’t lay smoothly, which leads to flyaways.

You may notice that your hair’s unruliness increases on hot, dry days, or in the winter when the heater is running full bore. That’s because less moisture in the air leads to more static electricity to build up on your hair.

To counteract the problem, you’ll want to use a moisturizing conditioner that smooths the cuticle. Smooth hair is less prone to friction and static buildup.

Wet hair is particularly vulnerable to friction. When hair is wet, the cortex swells causing the edges of the cuticle scales to lift. Hair is more “roughed up” and should therefore be treated very gently when shampooing or swimming.

Serious matting and tangles can develop as the cuticles stick to each other and cause the hairs to intertwine. Usually, the tangles can be worked out with a little patience and a wide-toothed comb; occasionally, however, the mattes have to be cut out because the individual hairs are just too rough and knotted.

Friction solutions:

A good way to combat flyaways is to keep a small bottle of leave-in conditioner or even hand lotion with you. Rub a pea-sized amount between your hands and smooth them down either side of your hair. The conditioning agents should leave your hair smoother and moisturized, which will keep flyaways at bay.
If your hair is often full of static when you wake up in the morning, you may want to invest in a satin pillowcase. Satin is a much smoother surface than cotton and will allow your hair to slide easily as you move your head during the night.
A humidifier or even a pot of boiling water on your stove is a great way to add extra moisture to dry air.
When you can’t avoid friction – like while shampooing or brushing hair – be sure to perform the task as gently as possible.
Also remember that wet hair is even more fragile than dry hair and that you should never, ever brush wet hair. Instead, use a wide-toothed comb without seams or rough spots that could catch on hair.

Changing Hair From The Inside Out

2011-06-26T15:27:00.000-07:00

If you always wished you had straight or curly hair, you may soon be able to have your wish simply by popping a pill. Scientists at L'Oreal say it's possible to alter the hair bulb deep in the follicle and actually change the shape of your hair from naturally curly to straight, and vice versa. They're working on a hormone pill that would transform “hook-shaped” bulbs responsible for curly hair into straight-shaped bulbs that produce straight hair. They also say this same technology can be used to turn gray hair back to its natural color.

Hair Properties and Ethnicity

2011-06-26T15:21:00.000-07:00

Natural hair types, colors, and textures are the result of the genes passed down from our ancestors. Scientists have identified three main races that influence hair types today: Mongoloid, Caucasoid, and Afroid.

Mongoloid: Mongoloid hair originated with people from the Orient. It is very straight, coarse, and black in color. Perfectly straight keratin bundles and a round hair shaft account for the thick, straight texture.
Caucasoid: Caucasoid hair is more varied in appearance, since Caucasian ancestors range from fair-skinned people of northern Europe all the way down to India. Caucasoid hair ranges from the palest blonde to the darkest black, as well as wavy, straight, curly, thick, or thin. An oval hair shaft with straight or wavy keratin bundles may account for the variety of Caucasoid hair.
Afroid: African hair comes in varying degrees of black and brown coils. The hair shaft may be oval and the cuticle sharply kinked at the edges. African hair can be dry and easily damaged due to its twisted structure and inability for sebum to easily lubricate the hair shaft.

All hair twists as it grows, and scientists believe it is the number of twists that determines how curly it will be. Scientists have found that some Afroid hair has 12 times as many twists per centimetre as some Caucasoid hair.^¹

Hair gets its shape depending on the shape of the hair follicle and the opening to the scalp or skin. The final shape of the hair follicle occurs as the keratin hardens and both disulphide and hydrogen bonds hold it in place.

Disulphide Bonds: As discussed earlier, disulphide bonds are extremely strong and give hair their permanent shape. These bonds can only be broken and hair texture changed with strong chemicals like perms and relaxers.

Hydrogen Bonds: Hydrogen bonds also exist within keratin and are much weaker than disulphide bonds. They give hair flexibility and can be easily broken with water. The hydrogen bonds reform themselves as they dry, allowing for temporary hair styling with rollers and other methods.

Whether hair appears dense or sparse on the head usually depends on two factors: how many hairs a person has and how thick the diameter of the hair shaft is. The number of terminal hair-shafts on a head ranges from 100,000 to 150,000. Natural redheads tend to have the least amount of hair while blondes have the most.

Interestingly, National Geographic reports that in our world of 7 billion people, the most “typical” person is a 28-year old Han Chinese male.^¹ That means that the most typical hair type in the world today is straight, black, and Asian. By 2030, however, the most typical human – and hair type – will be Indian.

Natgeo.com, Have You Seen Him? http://www.thelifefiles.com/2011/03/05/have-you-seen-him/

P&G Beauty & Grooming, Hair Types, http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/hair-types.html

The Hair Growth Cycle

2011-06-26T15:15:00.000-07:00

Each hair has a life cycle in three distinct phases: anagen, catagen, and telogen. These phases occur concurrently in individual hairs, preventing hair from all falling out at once.

Anagen (growing): Anagen is the active growth phase, which can last 1,000 days or more without interruption. On average, hair grows an average of ½ inch per month, or 6 inches in a year. As humans age, the anagen phase may shorten, producing shorter, finer hairs that may result in the appearance of thinning. How long a person’s hair grows depends on genetics and varies between genders. The Anagen phase occurs in several stages. Stages 1 through 5 are known as proanagen, and stage 6 is known as metanagen.
In stage 1, cells at the bottom of the epithelial sac (the “secondary germ”) begin mitotic activity (cell division).
In stage 2, the lower part of the follicle grows down and encloses part of the dermal papilla. Cells in the dermal papilla enlarge and become separated by an extracellular matrix. At the same time, the inner root sheath appears as a keratinized structure overlying the matrix.
In stage 3, the keratinizing inner root sheath takes on a conical shape and the cortex starts to differentiate. Tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis begin the process of melanin production in melanocytes located in the matrix.
In stage 4, cortical cells begin to become pigmented, while the cortex continues to keratinize.
In stage 5, the hair shaft penetrates the inner root sheath at the sebaceous duct.
In stage 6, the follicle is fully developed.
Healthy hair growth is also contingent on proper nutrition and overall good health. Hormones also play an important role in determining the length of the growth cycle with thyroid hormone speeding up growth in resting hair follicles and androgens (male hormones) affecting hair growth and thickness. Oestrogen slows hair growth but makes the anagen phase last longer, which is why many pregnant women report longer, lusher hair.
- Catagen (intermediate): Melanization stops just prior to the catagen phase, which occurs when mitosis in the matrix decreases and then stops. This short phase lasts for approximately 10 days. During this time, keratinization of the hair shaft continues and the terminal portion of the hair becomes club shaped. This club remains unpigmented.^¹ The base of the follicle and the club hair continue to move upward while the inner root sheath disintegrates. The vitreous (or “glassy”) membrane that is the basement membrane of the outer root sheath, thickens during this phase, while the dermal papilla loses its blood supply and extracellular matrix.
- Telogen (resting): Telogen lasts for some 100 days during which the club is held in the epithelial sac. The dermal papilla, now devoid of its blood supply, appears as a tightly packed ball of cells. As a new hair grows it may push out the old hair, causing it to fall painlessly. At any given time, up to one in ten hairs on a human head is in the telogen phase.^² It’s perfectly normal to lose up to 150 hairs each day through shedding without worrying about hair fall being excessive.
1 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 7.
2 P&G Beauty & Grooming, The Hair Growth Cycle, http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/the-hair-growth-cycle.html

Hair Embryology

2011-06-26T15:08:00.000-07:00

In humans, hair follicles first begin to develop in the eyebrows, chin and lip areas when a fetus is between 9 and 12 weeks gestation.^¹ In the “pre-germ” stage of development, epithelial cells crowd in the basal layer of the epidermis. Mesenchymal cells (undifferentiated stem cells that differentiate into a variety of cell types) cluster beneath the epithelial cells, which then elongate to form the hair germ. As the hair germ enlarges, it grows downward and becomes asymmetrical. The solid column of cells is known as the hair peg.

The hair peg contains a broad, concave tip with mesenchymal cells that eventually form the dermal papilla and dermal sheath. The lower end of the hair peg eventually becomes bulbous, and the tip’s cavity deepens further to enclose the dermal papilla. The bulbous hair germ will go on to form the hair bulb matrix, while the mesenchymal cells surrounding the bulb will form the

dermal sheath. The entire development of the hair follicle is completed by about 22 weeks of gestation.

Two enlarged areas then appear at the bottom of the follicle: the top enlargement is the precursor of the sebaceous gland and the lower bulge is the future site of the arrector muscle attachment. In some follicles (in the areas including the groin, areolae and face), a third bulge appears above the sebaceous gland enlargement to form gland.

Above the hair bulb matrix, a cone of cells differentiates from the matrix and goes on to form the cortex and cuticle of the hair.

1 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 3.

Types of Hair on the Human Body

2011-06-26T15:05:00.000-07:00

There are three types of hair in humans: lanugo, terminal and vellus.

Lanugo Hair: Lanugo hair (foetal hair) develops at about the third month post conception. These hairs grow at the same rate all over the baby’s body are very fine, and lack a medulla. They shed in favour of vellus hair at 36 to 40 weeks of gestation.
Vellus Hair: Vellus hair is short, fine hair that may be hard to see with the naked eye. These hairs develop in the womb about 4 weeks before a baby is born. They appear on most every part of the body except for the lips, back of ears, palms, soles, the naval, scar tissue, and some parts of the external genitalia (are they on eyelids?). The hairs are usually no longer than 2 mm long, do not have a medulla, contain little or no pigment, and are not attached to a sebaceous gland (glands in the dermis that secrete an oily/waxy substance called sebum to lubricate the hair and skin). Vellus hair acts as thermal insulation for the body.

Terminal Hair: Terminal hairs are found on the head and other parts of the body and grow from follicles with sebaceous glands. During puberty, an increase in androgen hormones causes many vellus hairs to be replaced by longer, darker terminal hairs in both men and women, although men usually develop them in more places. These include the face, pubic area, armpits, abdomens, legs and arms. Terminal hairs often contain a medulla.

Terminal hairs are affected by both sweat and sebaceous glands.

A. Sweat Glands: Two types of sweat glands exist in humans, eccrine and apocrine glands.

1. The eccrine glands cool the body by producing sweat, a watery liquid comprised of the chemicals or odorants 2-methylphenol (o-cresol) and 4-methylphenol (p-cresol), as well as a small amount of urea, that exits the pores on the epidermis and evaporates. These glands also supply the skin with a constant supply of water and nutrients. It is believed that humans have between 2 and 5 million sweat glands in the body, with the highest concentration in the palms of hands, soles of feet, forehead, and underarms. The scalp and forehead also sweat through the eccrine glands. Eccrine glands do not require a hair to exit the body, instead relying on individual pores.

The apocrine glands are the larger of the sweat glands. They may extend as deep as the hypodermis and produce an odor that allows mammals to recognize one another. They may also serve sexual stimuli function. These glands are considered “primitive” and become fully functional at puberty. Apocrine glands are found in the arm pits, the areola, and the anal region, with their ducts opening into the canals of the hair follicles. The sweat is secreted into the upper parts of the hair follicle and exits to the skin via the hair shaft.^¹

B. Sebaceous Glands: In humans, sebaceous glands exist in conjunction with hair and are most prevalent on the scalp and face (approximately 400 to 900 per square centimeter). They secrete an oily substance called sebum which lubricates, waterproofs and protects the hair and skin. Androgens (male hormones) are important factors in determining the amount of sebum secreted from sebaceous glands all over the body.

The word Sebum is Latin for “fat” or “tallow.” It is, indeed, made up of fat in the form of lipids, as well as wax and dead cells. Specifically, sebum is 25% wax monoesters (usually derived from an acid), 41% triglycerides, 16% free fatty acids, and 12% squalene (a biochemical precursor to a family of steroids).

Sebum itself is odourless, but odour can occur once it’s broken down by bacteria. In the sebaceous glands, sebum is produced in cells that eventually burst and release the sebum through a small duct leading from the gland to the hair shaft. This bursting action classifies sebaceous glands as holocrine glands (along with the meibomian glands of the eyelids)

A build-up of sebum can give the hair and scalp a greasy appearance and is usually the result of poor hygiene or the onset of puberty. In this case, higher level of male hormones (androgens) can cause sebum production to kick into overdrive.

1 Dermaxine.com, Sweat Glands, http://www.dermaxime.com/skin-sweat-glands.htm

Chemical Composition of Hair

2011-06-26T15:01:00.000-07:00

Hair is made up mostly of protein, which accounts for some 65 to 95% of its weight. These proteins contain the following amino acids in normal hair:

Amino Acid Amount

Lysine 2.8

Histidine 0.8

Arginine 5.6

Aspartic Acid 5.0

Threonine 6.9

Serine 11.7

Glutamic Acid 11.1

Proline 3.6

Glycine 6.5

Alanine 4.8

Cystine 17.5

Valine 5.9

Methionine 0.5

Isoleucine 2.7

Leucine 6.1

Tyrosine 1.9

Phenylalanine 1.4

It is also made up of the following elements: Ca, Mg, Sr, B, Al, Si, Na, K, Zn, Cu, Mn, Fe, Ag, Au, Hg, As, Pb, Sb, Ti, W, Mo, I, P, Se.

Lipids: sebum, free fatty acids, and neutral fats esters, glycerol, waxes, hydrocarbons, and alcohols.

Water: Hair has the capacity to absorb water, increasing its weight between 12 - 18%.

Hair Structure

2011-06-26T14:57:00.000-07:00

Hair has two distinct parts: the hair follicle and the hair shaft.

Hair Follicle: The hair follicle is a tiny pit located in the fat of the scalp from which the hair grows and is recognized as a separate entity within the skin.^¹ The hair follicle is divided into two regions, the Hair Bulb and the Mid-Follicle Region.

The Hair Bulb: The hair bulb is situated inside the follicle and contains the hair matrix with actively dividing and growing cells that are rich in RNA, as well as the dermal papilla. The matrix is a group of epithelial cells combined with pigment-producing melanocytes. Cells in the matrix are some of the fastest growing cells in the human body.^²The cells are several layers deep with an active turnover rate – researchers believe that each matrix cell divides every 23 to 72 hours.^³ Active cell division takes place in the lower bulb and the upper bulb that is adjacent to the dermal papilla.

The dermal papilla is the vascularized, growing part of the hair made up of the connective tissue sheath and the vitreous membrane. The lower part of the dermal papilla connects to the fibrous root sheath. The cells surrounding the dermal papilla are precursors of the hair fiber.^⁴ The size of the papilla is directly related to the size of the hair that is produced. In terminal follicles in the anagen phase, the dermal papilla is attached to a basal plate of connective tissue via a stalk containing papillary blood vessels. Researchers believe that the dermal papilla may determine the cyclical growth of each hair follicle.^⁵ The papilla is considered the “communication link” between the hair follicle and the rest of the body.^⁶ Capillaries allow blood and nutrients to pass through the papilla. If the papilla is destroyed, no further hairs will grow from that follicle.

As the cells grow out of the matrix, they push previously formed cells up toward the surface of the hair and scalp in a process of layering, hardening, and keratinizing. As the cells reach the upper part of the bulb, then arrange in layers: the outer three layers become the inner root sheath that lines the inside of the follicle, while the remaining three layers of cells become the hair’s cortex, medulla, and cuticle.

Inner Root Sheath: The inner root sheath consists of the Henle layer (a single layer of cubical cells with clear flattened nuclei)^⁸, Huxley layer (up to two layers of horny, flattened, nucleated cells)^⁹, and the internal cuticle, which is one cell thick. The cuticle of the inner root sheath is interlocked with the hair cuticle via overlapping shingles, or cuticle cells, firmly anchoring the growing hair in the follicle. All three layers are formed from the matrix cells in the hair bulb. All three layers undergo differentiation at the same time, but at different rates with the Henle layer first, followed by the Huxley layer, then the cuticle. Thus, complete hardening and differentiation of the inner root sheath occurs before the layers of developing hair.^¹⁰
Outer Root Sheath: The outer root sheath surrounds the inner root sheath where the sebaceous duct enters the hair follicle. All of the cell layers within the outer root sheath are produced by the hair matrix.^¹¹ However, the outer root sheath itself is not a product of the hair matrix. It consists of a sleeve of cells structured like the surface epidermis. The Outer Root Sheath is divided into two parts: a short lower part surrounding the outer part of the bulb (approximately one or two cells thick), and the upper part that reaches from the neck of the bulb to the sebaceous duct.^¹² Although the exact function of the outer root sheath isn’t fully known, the outward migration of its cells may help facilitate the final movement of the terminal part of the hair at the end of the catagen phase.

Most terminal hair follicles are attached to arrector pili muscles, which are controlled by sympathetic nerves. They contract involuntarily under stress and allow the hair to “stand on end” as goosebumps. The arrector pili muscle is attached to the follicle below the sebaceous duct.

Connective Tissue Sheath: The connective tissue sheath is a continuous thin layer of tissue that surrounds the base of the hair follicle, the sebaceous glands, and the papillary layer of the dermis.^¹³
The Vitreous Membrane: The vitreous or “glassy” membrane is the basement membrane of the outer root sheath that separates the outer root sheath from the connective tissue sheath. The vitreous membrane thickens during the catagen phase of hair growth.
The Fibrous Root Sheath: Surrounding the vitreous layer is the fibrous root sheath consisting of bundles of thickened collagen. This is the outermost layer of the hair follicle that covers the hair follicle from the dermal papilla at the bottom to the papillary dermis above.
The Mid-Follicle Region: Above the hair bulb is the mid-follicle region. This is where the growing cells die and harden and are pushed out of the skin by the growing cells below.

Hair Shaft

The hair shaft can be seen above the skin or scalp and consists mainly of dead cells, binding material, and water. It is made up of three layers: the cortex, medulla, and cuticle.

Cortex: The cortex makes up the main bulk of the hair. It is at the very center of the hair shaft made up of long, vertical strands of low-sulfur keratin and are compressed into larger bundles called macrofibrils that are held together by sulphur-rich keratin.^¹⁴ This combination lends the hair its super strength (a single hair can support around 100 grams – 3.5 ounces – without breaking). The cortex also contains pigment granules called melanin that is formed in special pigment-producing cells called melanocytes during the growth phase. There are two forms of melanin: eumelanin and phaeomelanin.

Eumelanin: Eumelanin exists as oval-shaped granules that give black and brown hair their dark pigment. These granules are hard in consistency and have sharply defined edges. The more Eumelanin that is present, the darker the hair will appear.

Phaeomelanin: This is a light pigment found in blondes and redheads. Phaeomelanin exists as smaller, partly oval/partly rod-shaped granules.

Differences in hair color depend on which type of melanin and how much is present in the cortex. Gray hair contains only a few melanin granules spread throughout the cortex while perfectly white hair has none. The graying process occurs when melanin production in the hair bulb gradually tapers off. Premature graying (in the 20s or 30s) usually happens as a result of a medical condition or a particular gene.

Medulla: Some, though not all hair shafts, contain a medulla, a hollow core that helps regulate body temperature. The actual structure includes a cortex-like framework of spongy keratin that supports thin shells of amorphous material. Scientists believe the medulla is a “throw back” to the time when our ancestors needed this extra insulation.^¹⁶
Cuticle: The cuticle is the outer protective layer of the hair-shaft that resembles tiles on a roof. It is made up of some 6 to 10 overlapping layers of long cells which circumvent the shaft, with their free margains pointing toward the hair tip. The cuticle contains three major layers: a cystine-rich A-layer, the exocuticle and the endocuticle. When the transparent cuticle cells lay flat, they reflect light and give hair its luster. Chemical and mechanical damage (sun exposure, brushing, heated tools) can cause the cuticle to lift, exposing the cortex beneath. This “weathering” weakens the hair shaft and can lead to splitting and breaking. A heavily damaged cuticle can become porous and cause hair to become excessively dry since the cortex can no longer retain the needed amount of moisture. Modern hair conditioners can smooth over the damaged cuticle to make hair appear healthier. In additional, panthenol (vitamin B5) can actually penetrate the scalp and hair shaft, providing much-needed moisture.

Covering the cuticle itself is a thin layer called the epicuticle. It is believed to be a lipid-containing surface membrane that may be chemically associated with the intercellular binding material.^¹⁷

1 Dr. John Gray, The World Of Hair, p. 12

2 Wikipedia.org, Hair Follicle, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hair_follicle

3 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 23.

4 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 23.

5 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 32.

6 The International Association of Trichologists, The Hair and Scalp, p. 40.

7 The International Association of Trichologists, The Hair and Scalp, p. 40.

8 Wikipedia.org, Henle’s layer, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henle%27s_layer

9 Wikipedia.org, Huxley’s layer, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huxley%27s_layer

10 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 27-28.

11 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 23.

12 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 29.

13 The International Association of Trichologists, The Hair and Scalp, p. 45.

14 P&G Beauty & Grooming, Hair Structure, http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/hair-structure.html

15 P&G Beauty & Grooming, Hair Color, http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/hair-color1.html

16 P&G Beauty & Grooming, Hair Structure, http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/hair-structure.html

17 Dawber, Rodney, Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, p. 35.

Elasticity and Hair Health

2011-06-23T15:42:00.000-07:00

One of the most important properties of healthy hair is its elasticity. Healthy hair will always “spring back” to its original shape after being stretched. In fact, healthy wet hair can be stretched by up to 30% without breaking.

If your hair won’t take a curl or breaks off at the scalp when you brush or style it, you probably have poor elasticity.

To test your hair’s elasticity, pluck a single hair from your head and gently stretch it. The hair should stretch by about one-third, then bounce back to its original shape. If it doesn’t stretch, bounce back, or simply breaks off, you have poor elasticity.

Poor elasticity is caused by damage to the keratin fibers in the cortex. (Remember that the cortex is the center part of the hair responsible for hair’s strength and elasticity).

The damage is usually caused by too many chemical treatments like bleaching, coloring and perming; excessive heat from blow dryers and hot irons; and exposure to UV rays – either from the sun or tanning beds.

If your hair has poor elasticity, do not perm, straighten, color or bleach it. Your hair can’t handle any chemical treatment at this point and will probably break off or turn into a frazzled mess. If you have a salon appointment and are worried about your hair’s elasticity, ask the stylist to give you his or her opinion. An ethical stylist would never perform a chemical service on hair in poor shape. Instead of processing your hair, sign up for a series of deep conditioning treatments.

This will increase the moisture content of your hair and strengthen it for future chemical processing. You and your stylist can work together to determine when your hair is ready.

How Chemical Processes Damage Hair

All chemical processes damage hair in one way or another. The trick is to balance the desired result with as little damage as possible.

Permanent wave and chemical straighteners (or “relaxers”) work by breaking the hair’s disulphide bonds. (These bonds are responsible for much of our hair’s strength and can only be broken with very strong chemicals.) The hair is either curled or straightened into its new shape, then the chemical bonds are allowed to reform into their new positions.

There is inevitably some lifting of the cuticle and weakening of the cortex during this process.

When using bleach or hair dye, the chemicals must penetrate the hair shaft and alter the cortex. The hair follicle in the scalp is not affected, as evidenced by the dark “roots” that grow in after a few weeks.

Repeated chemical treatments that are too strong, too quick in succession or applied improperly can cause excessive damage that wears away the cuticle and causes the hair to break. The good news is that chemical processes can’t cause you to lose your hair because they don’t penetrate the scalp. Only a severe burn caused by the chemicals can actually kill hair follicles and stop future growth.

To keep your hair healthy and properly elastic, you must keep the cortex in good shape.

Here’s how:

Make an effort to use less heat (blow dryers, straightening irons, etc.) and fewer chemicals on your hair.
Increase the moisture content of your hair by using products with Panthenol (also called Vitamin B5 and Pantothenic Acid), the only nutrient proved to penetrate the hair shaft and strengthen the cortex.
Make sure you get enough sulphur in your diet through foods such as garlic, onions and eggs. The main protein in the hair’s cortex is sulphur-rich keratin; too little sulphur weakens the hair and causes it to react poorly to cosmetic treatments. One form of sulphur is called MSM (methylsulfonylmethane).

The Evolution of Hair Science

2011-06-12T17:46:00.000-07:00

A book published in 1901 called Macfadden's New Hair Culture: Rational, Natural Methods For Cultivating Strength and Luxuriance Of The Hair shows just how far hair science has come over the years.

Following are some interesting, and often comical, excerpts that have been disproved over the years:

· “The principal reason why a woman's hair is stronger, and grows longer than the opposite sex, is that it is allowed to grow long from very early youth. The combing and general care of the hair necessary in the life of a girl also strengthen the hair very greatly.”

· “Some claim that women, being less engaged in mental labor, and having less business worries, are able to secure a more constant and even supply of blood to the scalp.”

· “When the hair is allowed to grow long in the early life of a girl, the nourishment of long hair is possible, but when kept closely cropped as in boys, conditions are decidedly different. The scalp is not so thick and not so much blood is attracted to it, and naturally when weakness or conditions are such as to produce a weakening influence on the hair, the male is far more liable to lose his hair than would a female whose hair is more strongly rooted and nourished.”

· “Dead hairs should never be allowed to remain in the scalp; they should be plucked as soon as they can be easily removed. Under these circumstances, if they are removed another hair always grows from the same follicle or root sheath; but if this dead hair is allowed to remain until it falls out on its own accord, it often kills the root, and the hair never grows again.”

· “Baldness cannot be inherited any more than can consumption.”

· “The hair obtains its color from the coloring glands situated nearer the surface than the hair-root. When these glands are destroyed by any means the hair naturally loses its color.”

· “The direct rays of the sun are a tonic of great value for the hair; they impart a luster and richness of color which can be acquired in no other way...Sun the hair all you can on every occasion.”

· “The color of the hair seems to have quite an influence upon woman's chances in marriage. A far greater proportion of light-haired women live and die unmarried than those with dark hair.”

The Seven Sutherland Sisters

2011-06-12T17:34:00.000-07:00

The Seven Sutherland Sisters of Lockport New York were world-famous for their incredible hair, which reportedly had a collective length of 37 feet.

Around 1884, when the Sisters were traveling with Barnum and Bailey's Greatest Show on Earth, their father realized that crowds flocked to see the girls' long hair more than their singing act.

Fletcher Sutherland mixed together a liquid concoction that he called The Seven Sutherland Sisters Hair Grower. He sent a bottle to a chemist for an analysis and received the following testimonial:

"Cincinnati, Ohio, March, 1884: - Having made a Chemical Analysis of the Hair Grower prepared by the Seven Long Haired Sisters, I hereby certify that I found it free from all injurious substances, being largely composed of vegetable preparations. It is beyond question the best preparation for the hair ever made and I cheerfully endorse it. -- J.R. Duff, M.D., Chemist."

A 1907 analysis of the product showed the following contents: 28.4% alcohol, about 1% solids with traces of borax and quinine.

The Seven Sutherland Sisters Corp. bottled and distributed the Hair Grower from New York City and sold $90,000 worth the first year. They soon added a Scalp Cleanser, a Seven Sutherland Sisters Comb and eight shades of Hair Colorators.

Ad Slogans

● "Remember ladies it is the hair not the hat that makes you beautiful."

● "A woman's hair is her crowning glory."

The Early Years

The Sisters' mother, Mary, reportedly applied an ointment on the young girls' hair to stimulate growth. Their classmates often complained of the offensive smell.

Perception of Floor-Length Hair

For publicity photos, the Sisters always posed with some sitting or bending at the waist so it appeared that each of them had hair that reached the floor.

The Eighth & Ninth Sisters

When Naomi died in 1893, the Sisters searched for a long-haired substitute to join them. They finally found a woman in Carbondale, Pennsylvania, named Anne Louise Roberts, whose hair was 9-feet long. She toured as one of The Seven Sutherland Sisters from around 1894 to 1902. Another woman, Anna Haney, took the place of Victoria when she died in 1902. Ms. Haney's hair was 6-feet long and she toured with the Sisters from about 1902 to 1906.

Priceless Dolls

Each Sister had a doll made with combings of her own hair. The dolls stood up to three-feet high and were dressed in the most expensive costumes of the period. They were used for window displays to advertise the Sisters' hair products. Two of the dolls are reportedly still owned by Niagara County residents

Long Hair and Insanity

Mary Sutherland had very heavy hair that some people believe led to her spells of mental illness. At the time, people believed that long, heavy hair robbed the brain of nourishment and could lead to insanity.

Expensive Strand

Victoria Sutherland was reportedly offered $2,500 to cut off her 7-foot long hair. She refused that offer, but sold one strand of hair to a jeweler for $25. The jeweler suspended the hair in his shop window with a seven carat diamond at the end.

Shrinking Hair?

In his book, George Michael's Secrets For Beautiful Hair, long hair care expert Dr. George Michael contends that cutting bangs (or fringe) caused the Sisters' hair length to shrink. Dr. Michael attributed the phenomenon to the process of equalization, where hair seeks to have the same length all over the head. Dr. Michael says that within a year, the total length of the Sisters' hair went from 49 feet to 29 feet because of bangs.

Combing Out

Once they made their fortune, each Sister reportedly hired a personal maid to comb out her hair. The maids also had to look after the seven dolls that each sister had made in her likeness.

Masking the Sun

The Sisters were often seen tending to their gardens in the summer wearing cloth masks to protect their hair and faces from the sun.

The Sutherland children were all musically inclined and often performed around New York State as the "Sutherland Concert of Seven Sisters and One Brother." In 1881, they performed at the Atlanta Exposition in Georgia. They traveled with "W.W. Coles Colossal Shows" in 1882 and joined "Barnum and Bailey's Greatest Show on Earth" by 1884.

The Daily Journal, Lockport, late 1880s

"Miss Sarah N. Sutherland - Known as a fine solo singer, and celebrated for her Scotch and English songs and has long massive hair.

"Miss Victoria Sutherland - Has a mezzo-soprano voice, and has the longest hair on record, being seven feet, or eighty four inches in length.

"Miss Isabella C. Sutherland - Has a high soprano voice, of great flexibility and power, and

has hair six feet in length, of great fineness.

"Miss Grace Sutherland - Sings tenor, and has a sweet melodious voice, and is an excellent Piano accompanist, and has hair between five and six feet in length.

"Miss Naomi Sutherland - The world renowned female Bass Singer, has the most massive hair ever worn by any human being on earth, and which envelopes her whole body as with a garment.

"Miss Dora Sutherland - One of the younger sisters, has an alto voice, and has abundant hair about five feet long.

"Miss Mary Sutherland - Has a soprano voice, and is the youngest of the Seven Sisters, and for her age, has the most wonderful growth of hair, and it is rapidly growing to be the longest and most massive hair in the world."

Three Steps To Healthy Long Hair

2011-06-12T17:12:00.000-07:00

First, some facts. Your hair's growth rate is related to the following factors: your age, diet, genetics, hormonal status, blood circulation, stress level, infections, medication, climate, exposure to hair chemicals, and hairdressing techniques.

One dermatological theory says that increased hair loss, thinning, and a short growth cycle are partially due to the body's inability to provide the scalp with the nutrients required for the proper hair growth. The follicles become prematurely dormant and growth shuts down. But, once the follicles start to receive the necessary stimulus and nutrients, new hair may start to grow again faster, longer, and healthier. With that in mind, here are three important steps to growing long healthy hair:

1. Proper Nutrition and Illness Prevention through Food and Supplements

2. Stress Reduction through Aromatherapy and Massage

3. Gentle care of your growing hair

Step One: Proper Nutrition and Illness Prevention

The best way to provide hair follicles with the nutrients they need for active growth is through the bloodstream. In fact, the hair is such a good indicator of the health of the rest of your body that nutritionists can tell whether you're deficient in particular vitamins and minerals just by analyzing a snip of hair. There are certain foods you can eat and supplements you can take to promote optimal hair growth. Let's start with one of the top nutrients needed for healthy, strong hair: Essential Fatty Acids.

Flax Seed Oil is an Omega-3 Essential Fatty Acid (EFA). EFA's include Linoleic Acid (LA) and Alpha Linolenic Acid (LNA). Doctors around the world recognize EFA's as essential nutrients for human health. The problem is that EFA's aren't made in our bodies, so we have to eat them or take them as supplements.

Linoleic Acid is considered the most important EFA. It is a necessity for hair health and growth. Without it, humans suffer from hair loss and dry scaly scalp and skin. Veterinarians are known to recommend LA to improve animals' coats. The richest source of Linoleic Acid is flax seed oil - a must for anyone wanting to grow gorgeous long hair. Flax is a seed that can be eaten raw, used as an oil, and taken in capsule form. Nutritionist Dr. Andrew Weil recommends eating whole flax seeds sprinkled on food in his book, Eight Weeks to Optimum Health.

In addition to flax seed oil, nutritionists recommend the following vitamins and minerals to bolster the EFA's positive effects: Vitamins A, B3, B6, C, E, and the minerals Magnesium and Zinc.

Other supplements necessary for healthy long hair:

Evening Primrose Oil is a good source of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA), an EFA essential for cell metabolism and growth. This oil, also found in capsule form, aids hair growth and restoration. Other outstanding sources of GLA are Borage Oil and Black Current Oil.

Silica provides collagen essential for luxurious hair growth.

Lecithin is used by every living cell in our bodies. It helps purify your system and aids in the absorption of vitamins A, D, E, and K.

Choline and Inositol are important for hair metabolism.

Calcium is important for actively growing hair follicle cells.

Vitamin E is an excellent antioxidant particularly good for preventing the oxidization of Vitamins A & C, maintains cell membranes and general health of the blood.

Zinc keeps hair follicles from atrophying.

Copper ensures hair pigment.

Manganese and Iron are essential for follicle growth.

Iodine is essential for optimum hair growth.

Niacin has been known to restore hair pigmentation when taken over a long period of time.

Biotin has been called "the hair vitamin" because of its growth benefits.

Hair Growth Vitamins and Minerals in The Food You Eat

The quality of your hair reflects in part the adequacy of your diet. Regular well-rounded meals are best for you and your hair. Iron deficiency due to inadequate consumption of red meat or heavy menstrual bleeding in women, could cause hair loss. So can crash diets and eating disorders.

Vitamin E Sources: polyunsaturated oils and margarines, green veggies, almonds, sunflower seeds, whole grains, eggs, liver, oatmeal.

Fatty Acid Sources: fish (especially salmon and tuna) and vegetables.

Beta-carotene is converted to vitamin A and helps promote healthy skin, hair and nails. It's found in green and yellow vegetables and fruits.

Vitamin A Sources: liver, kidneys, eggs, milk, yellow & green fruit & vegetables (carrots, spinach, apricots, peaches, broccoli, asparagus, yams).

Vitamin B1 (Thiamine) Sources: whole-grain and enriched cereals, pork, beef, lamb, nuts, and legumes.

Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) Sources: green veggies, blackstrap molasses, brewer's yeast, liver, nuts, whole grains.

Niacin Sources: liver, meat, fish, poultry, peanuts, and enriched cereals. Restores hair pigmentation when taken over a long period of time.

Vitamin B6 Sources: liver, beef, lamb, pork, salmon, whole-grain cereals, lima beans, carrots, tomatoes, potatoes, green leafy veggies, bananas, avocados.

Vitamin B12 Sources: liver, kidneys, fish, eggs, milk, milk products.

Folic Acid: Dark green leafy veggies, liver, kidneys, milk and milk products, salmon, tuna, dates, whole grains.

Protein is extremely important to proper hair growth. A diet too low in protein can cause thinning hair or a retardation in the growth cycle. Nutritionists recommend brewer's yeast, calves liver, dairy products, fish, eggs, beans, yogurt, and tofu as excellent protein sources.

*Remember, it's never a good idea to drastically change your diet without first checking with your doctor.

Step 2: Stress Reduction through Aromatherapy and Massage

Stress is one of the biggest reasons people are unable to achieve optimal hair growth. When we get tense, the layer of muscle covering the skull tightens up. This is why we get headaches when we're stressed out.

This same tightening restricts the blood supply to the hair follicles. The follicles become undernourished and affect the condition of the hair and the growth cycle. Stress can also lead to oily scalp and hair, and dandruff flare ups.

Hair expert Philip Kingsley says stress causes an overproduction of sebum which leads to oiliness and dandruff. Kingsley also says that stress can cause your hair to turn white or gray because your body becomes depleted in B vitamins, which are necessary for hair pigment.

"Laboratory tests with black rats have shown that feeding them a diet deficient in the B vitamins turned their hair white," reports Kingsley in his The Complete Hair Book (Grove Press).

"On reintroducing vitamin B, the hair regained its color. . . What's so fascinating about all this," says Kingsley, "is that personal stress demands more B vitamins because the body used more of them up. In fact, the B vitamins have become known as the 'nerve vitamins.' So, it wouldn't seem unreasonable to conclude from that that stress could be the underlying cause."

Dermatologist Dr. Irwin Lubowe concurs with Kingsley's stress theory. He cites extreme wartime cases where hair turns white when stress cuts off the melanin produced by the hair's cortex. Dr. Lubowe has treated stress-induced whitened hair by prescribing pantothenate and PABA, while Kingsley prescribes B vitamins in the form of brewer's yeast and defatted liver extract.

In extreme cases, stress can lead to complete temporary hair loss known as alopecia areata. Alopecia causes the scalp to become inflamed at a microscopic level which leads to patchy hair loss. Italian researchers have found that stress lowers the alopecia patients' white blood cell levels which leaves them vulnerable to the condition.

One of the best ways to relax and stimulate blood flow to the scalp is through scalp massage. This promotes hair growth by increasing scalp circulation and nourishment to your hair follicles, which in turn improves the overall condition of your hair. Self massage while shampooing is perhaps the easiest way to increase circulation in your scalp. Simply move the scalp around as much as possible as you shampoo. You can also give yourself a scalp massage on dry hair with the following steps:

1. Use your fingers to make small circles all over your scalp. Start at your forehead and work back over your whole head.

2. Run your fingers through your hair and stroke your scalp.

3. Gently pull sections of your hair until you feel a tug on your scalp.

4. Release and repeat, concentrating on "pulling out" the stress.

Some high-priced spas perform a treatment called "shirodhara" where warm oil is poured over the forehead to soothe the mind by calming the central nervous system. The oil is then gently massaged into the hair. You can also look into Craniosacral Therapy, a head massage used to treat chronic pain, migraine headaches, TMJ and a range of other conditions.

Scalp Health and Hair Growth Through Aromatherapy

A normal scalp has between 24 and 40 layers of dead cells which are constantly moving up to the surface where they are shed. The cycle for each layer takes 28 days.

Scalp massage encourages blood circulation in the scalp and will help alleviate tension that can contribute to hair loss. Some massage oils help moisturize and stimulate the scalp by removing and preventing the build up of dead skin cells.

Adding essential oils to your scalp massage is one of the best ways available to encourage relaxation and stimulate hair growth. This is because essential oils have the ability to penetrate the skin and reach the subcutaneous tissues responsible for youthful, healthy scalp and skin.

Essential Oils and Aromatherapy

Essential oils have been used for thousands of years to remedy a variety of health problems, including hair loss and slow growth. There are approximately 400 essential oils distilled today with approximately 100 used in aromatherapy. The oils are extracted from a variety of plan parts, including the flowers, leaves, wood, resin, and twigs. They have a molecular structure similar to those found in actual human hormones, which is why they provide actual stimulation when applied directly to the skin and scalp.

Aromatherapy uses essential oils to treat and prevent maladies. It works because our olfactory function leads directly to the brain where chemical reactions take place. In addition, essential oils are able to penetrate the skin and travel to the bloodstream where their chemical components produce their desired effects. They are also eliminated quickly, and leave the body between four and six hours after absorption.

Essential oils stimulate the body's own natural healing processes and alleviates tension and stress. Dr. Susan Schiffman, a professor of medical psychology at Duke University, concluded that smell can promote relaxation better than visualization techniques.

Aromatherapy and Hair Growth

An exciting study in the Archives of Dermatology (1998; 134:1349-1352) even finds that aromatherapy can safely and effectively treat temporary hair loss due to alopecia areata and promote new growth. The study was performed by Scottish researchers who had half of their patients massage thyme, rosemary, lavender, and cedarwood essential oils onto their scalps each day. The other patients massaged in "carrier" oils jojoba and grapeseed oil.

After seven months of treatment, 44% of the patients using the essential oils showed significant improvement in hair growth. The group using carrier oils showed just 15% improvement. In addition, the aromatherapy caused no significant side effects. Researchers concluded that not only did the aromatherapy work, it was also far safer than traditional alopecia treatments including conventional steroids. Following is a list of essential oils used throughout the ages to stimulate hair growth.

1. Borage: Prevents scalp conditions and eczema.

2. Cedarwood: Strengthens the hair shaft. Excellent treatment for dandruff and/or oily scalp. Also used to treat nervous and stress-related conditions. Used in haircare, skincare, massage, diffusers, and as perfume.

3. Clary Sage: Alleviates stress-related conditions including high blood pressure, depression, and anxiety. It can produce a state of euphoria and has been used as an aphrodisiac. Promotes estrogen balance in the membrane tissue around the hair follicle. Used to treat dandruff.

4. Geranium: Alleviates oily scalp and inflammations.

5. Jasmine: Acts as an anti-depressant, analgesic, and reputed aphrodisiac. Often used to treat problems with the nervous system such as anxiety and stress. An excellent scalp and skin tonic.

6. Juniper: Used as a hair loss treatment because it stimulates circulation and detoxifies the body.

7. Lavender: Encourages scalp circulation and promotes hair growth. Prevents headaches and hypertension.

8. Neroli (Orange Blossom): Excellent moisturizer for scalp and skin. Soothes nervous tension. Also used as an aphrodisiac.

9. Palmarosa: Helps balance production of sebum. Very beneficial for both extremely dry and oily scalps. Stimulates new cell growth, regulates oil production, moisturizes, and speeds healing.

10. Rosewood: Used for general scalp and skin care. Alleviates depression, stress, and dermatitis.

11. Sandalwood: Relieves depression and nervous tension. Heals dry & chapped skin. Plays an important part in Ayurveda, the Indian system of healing.

12. Tea Tree: Stimulates scalp circulation. Strong antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, fungicidal properties.

13. Ylang Ylang: Used to alleviate a variety of hair and skin complaints. In Victorian times, the oil was used in Macassar oil - a hair treatment. Also acts as an anti-depressant.

Step 3: Take Gentle Care of your Growing Hair

Now that we've discussed what it takes to grow healthy, long hair, it's time to discuss how to pamper the hair you already have to ensure it's in top condition.

As we discussed before, hair is technically "dead" -- But that doesn't mean you can treat it poorly or simply ignore it. Dr. George Michael, a world-renowned long hair care expert, said long hair needed to be treated like "fine, old lace."

That's because the longer your hair is, the older it is and the gentler the care it requires.

There are ways to smooth the scales on the hair shaft to make it appear shiny and healthy. There are also ways to properly hydrate your hair and fill in the damaged gaps to make it appear thick and bouncy. It all depends on what you put on your hair and how you treat it.

Shampoo

Shampoo comes from the Hindu word champo, which means "to massage" or "to knead". The main function of shampoo is to remove the sebum that the scalp naturally secretes, as well as to remove conditioning and styling products.

A safe shampoo for any kind of hair should have a pH of 4.5-5.5. pH levels indicates how acidic or alkaline shampoos are. If shampoos are too alkaline (high pH), it can cause the hair shaft to swell and damage the cuticle. If it's more acid (low pH) it can tighten the cuticle, helping the hair to feel softer and look shinier. Unaltered hair has a pH of 5.5.

All shampoos contain water combined with a detergent or soap, thickeners, detanglers, fragrance, and preservatives. One ingredient to watch out for is Sodium Lauryl Sulfite, a harsh detergent. This chemical is different from Sodium Laureth Sulfite, which is somewhat gentler to the hair.

Some people claim that using the same shampoo every day can lead to "buildup". You can tell you have buildup if your hair seems flatter and less lively than usual. If this happens to your hair, switch to a non-creamy shampoo for about a week. "Clarifying" and "Detoxifying" shampoos can be harsh and drying on long hair, so you may not want to use them for an extended period of time.

Shampooing Tips For Long Hair

1. Begin with a pre-wash conditioner such as Jojoba Oil or a heavy cream conditioner. Leave on for 20-30 minutes if possible.

2. Make sure the shower water is tepid, not hot.

3. Spread a capful of shampoo between the palms of your hands before working into your scalp.

4. Work shampoo into your scalp before wetting hair with warm -- not hot -- water.

5. Use the pads of your fingertips -- not your nails.

6. There's no need to shampoo the length of hair below your chin. If you must wash your ends, squeeze shampoo through, then rinse.

7. To prevent tangles, don't pile hair on top of head when washing.

8. Only lather up once unless your scalp is extra oily.

9. Rinse hair thoroughly, making sure to get out all remnants of suds.

Conditioners

Conditioners coat the hair shaft with ingredients that temporarily close areas of the cuticle and seal in needed moisture. They also protect against heat and environmental damage - until washed out. Most salon and drugstore conditioners primarily contain water and emollients (oils). The more oils, the more "intensive" the conditioner is. Watch out for lanolin and mineral oil, which are hard to wash out and can leave the hair looking greasy and limp.

Botanicals: Naturally derived oils and water extracts of plants that replace manufactured additives.

Emollients: Vegetable oils such as jojoba, sweet almond, borage, avocado, and olive.

Sun Protection: We use aloe as a natural sun blocking agent.

Vegetable Glycerin: One of the best water-binding agents.

Fatty acids: Lubricants and emollients that give the product and the hair a soft velvety feel and keep water in the hair to prevent dehydration in dry climates. We use flax seed oil.

Vegetable Oils: Leave a protective barrier that prevents dehydration. Also extremely emollient, providing good water-binding ability. We use jojoba, sweet almond, borage, avocado, and olive oils.

Vitamin E: May prevent free radical damage to scalp.

Panthenol: (Derivative of Vitamin B Complex Factor). Excellent penetration in to the hair shaft. Gives hair a more substantial smoother feel, keeps moisture in, improves movement, and imparts luster. Panthenol (vitamin B5 derivative) The only vitamin shown to have the capability to penetrate the hair shaft, panthenol works like most other conditioning ingredients, helping to boost hair's luster and moisture-retaining abilities.

Soy Protein: Plant proteins are attracted to the hair much the same way collagen is, with the same positive results. Plant protein can also help bind water to the hair.

Conditioning Tips For Long Hair

1. Thoroughly rinse all shampoo from hair.

2. Spread about a capful of conditioner between your palms (the amount will depend on the length of your hair).

3. Apply to the hair from chin-length down.

4. Use a wide-tooth comb to carefully distribute the conditioner evenly.

5. Leave on for two to 10 minutes.

6. Rinse conditioner out thoroughly.

7. Do a final cold water rinse to seal the hair's cuticle.

8. Squeeze length of hair to remove excess water.

9. Wrap hair in towel or hair shammy for quicker drying. Don't wrap like a turban -- this can cause tangles. Instead, drape the towel over your head like a nun's habit.

10. Use a wide-tooth comb to remove tangles. Never brush wet hair or it could break off!

11. For detangling and extra protection from heat and the elements, apply a leave-in conditioner to the ends of your hair.

12. Let your hair dry naturally if possible. If you must use a blow dryer, blow the air down the shafts.

A final word about treating your long hair gently. Be careful to avoid hair accessories with sharp edges or sticky elastic. These can actually tear or sever your long hair, which would make all the steps you've taken to grow it a big waste of time. Treat your hair gently from the inside out and you'll be rewarded with gorgeous long locks for life.

Ten Superfoods For Healthier, Faster Growing Hair

2011-06-12T17:03:00.000-07:00

Good nutrition is extremely important for healthy hair and it's one of the first things you should work on if you're experiencing hair loss, excessive damage or slow growth. One of the best eating plans for hair - one rich in protein, essential fatty acids and anti-oxidants - was actually put together by a skin doctor to stave off wrinkles.

Dr. Nicholas Perricone's book, The Perricone Promise: Look Younger, Live Longer in Three Easy Steps (Warner Books, 2004), outlines the foods you should include and those you should avoid if you want great skin. The program will also greatly improve the condition of your hair, especially if poor nutrition is contributing to your hair woes.

The One Nutrient You Can’t Do Without if you want Healthy, Shining Hair

Essential Fatty Acids (or EFAs) are vital for healthy hair growth. In fact, EFAs have even been found to block the enzyme that creates DHT, a follicle-damaging androgen that causes hair loss.

Dr. Perricone, a certified dermatologist, is an expert at using EFAs to keep wrinkles at bay. He's considered the father of fish oil because he was one of the first serious proponents of fish oil supplements as well as wild salmon for supplying the body with much-needed essential fatty acids necessary for supple skin and healthy hair growth.

These “good fats” are called Essential Fatty Acids because your body can’t manufacture them. Therefore, it’s essential that you get them from food or supplements. A deficiency in EFAs shows up as slow hair growth, excessively dry hair, and even hair loss.Foods such as wild salmon, tuna, trout, mackerel, sardines, olive oil, nuts, seeds and avocado are all rich in EFAs and should be part of any healthy hair diet.

Ten Superfoods For Hair Growth

In addition to eating EFA-rich foods, Dr. Perricone recommends the following "Ten Superfoods:"

1. Acai: Dr. Perricone calls this Brazilian berry "one of the most nutritious and powerful foods in the world." Acai contains antioxidants, healthy fats, dietary fiber, phytosterols, amino acids and minerals, all of which are vital to healthy hair growth.

2. The Allium Family: This family of foods includes garlic, onions, leeks,

scallions, shallots and chives. They contain flavonoids that help the body

eliminate toxins and carcinogens. These foods are also rich in Sulfur, a mineral

that’s found in high concentrations in the hair, skin and nails. Sulfur, often known

as the “beauty mineral,” keeps hair shiny and strong.

3. Barley: Dr. Perricone recommends this low-glycemic grain for its high fiber

content. It's also a good source of Niacin, the B vitamin important for healthy hair

growth. Niacin helps improve circulation to the scalp, which can kick-starrt slow

hair growth.

4. Green Grasses: Wheat and barley grasses, blue-green algae, spirulina

and chlorella are recommended for their EFA content as well as their ability to

clear the body of toxins.

5. Buckwheat: Dr. Perricone says Buckwheat is even "better than grains"

because it contains more vitamins and minerals, healthier fats, more fiber

and flavonoids for circulatory health. Better circulation means more nutrients

are getting to the growing hair follicle.

6. Beans & Lentils: Dr. Perricone calls beans (kidney, black, navy, pinto),chickpeas, soybeans, dried peas and lentils "an anti-aging dietary necessity."

Without this rich source of protein, hair follicles can shift into a resting phase.

7. Hot Peppers: Hot peppers contain capsaicin, which has "anti-inflammatory,

analgesic, anti-cancer, heart-healthy effects." Capsaicin can help create ahealthy scalp with a plentiful supply of nutrient-rich circulation.

8. Nuts & Seeds: Nuts and seeds contain a plentiful supply of protein, fats,

vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals that are essential for reducing the

visible signs of aging, including thin, dry, lifeless hair.

9. Sprouts: The highly nutritious result of a seed as it starts growing into a

vegetable, Dr. Perricone says sprouts (mung bean, alfalfa, radish and onion) are

a concentrated source of living enzymes necessary for a healthy, youthful body,

including hair and skin.

10. Yogurt & Kefir: These probiotic milk products are believed responsible for

the longevity of the peoples of the Caucasus Mountains of southern Russia.

Yogurt & Kefir help maintain a healthy digestive system, which ensures anadequate supply of nutients to the body. If your body isn’t getting what it needs, your hair will be the first to suffer.

Foods to Avoid for the Sake of Your Hair

You’ve probably heard it before, but it bears repeating. If you want a healthy body, healthy skin and healthy hair, you need to cut down on your fat intake, especially animal fat. Animal fats lead to too much cholesterol in the system. An excess of cholesterol can actually raise testosterone levels and cause slow growing hair and even baldness. For the healthiest hair, your best bet is to eat smaller portions of lean meats.

An Excellent Way to Start Growing Healthy Hair

If you're interested in jump-starting your nutritional recovery for healthy hair, I recommend trying Dr. Perricone's "Three-Day Nutritional Face-lift." It's chockfull of protein, EFAs and anti-oxidants and will indoctrinate you into a new way of eating that's both delicious as well as great for your hair. You can find it here:

Remember that it takes approximately three months for any dietary changes to show up in your hair growth, so be patient and enjoy the benefits to your skin and overall health as your hair's condition begins to improve.

http://www.drperricone.com/3-day-diet.html