It’s common to read commentary about how tourism has ruined a destination. Clearly over tourism can be a problem. And Barcelona does have a problem with over tourism. There are, however, some consistent tropes in the arguments being made that should be retired.

In a Guardian article a few years back, Stephen Burgen argues that Barcelona has been ruined by tourism.

You can’t disagree that the queues for the tourist sites in Barcelona can be long. Nor that La Rambla is an overcrowded mess full of tourist tatt stores. (Though there is an effort to clean that up right now.) Nor that La Boqueria can be difficult to navigate and is increasingly about ‘juice bars and assorted take-aways.’

But wait

If you travel off season, you can generally book tickets to attractions online and completely skip queues. La Rambla may be overwhelmed with tourist crowds, but duck down a side street – particularly in the El Raval direction – you’ll find a community with its own unique culture and feel. There are some decent restaurants on La Rambla, though they are, admittedly, uncommon.

Just by avoiding the main tourist attractions and seeing some alternatives you can have a much better trip, without contributing to the issues of over tourism.

And despite having to fight through the tourist hordes, you can buy excellent fresh fruit, vegetables, seafood, meat and supplies at La Boqueria. I’m assuming fresh rabbits don’t count as ‘assorted take-aways’.

In short, tourism has affected Barcelona and the way people live, but life goes on. Barcelona has not been ruined by tourism.

Be like the locals

Residents have adapted to the tourist onslaught in various ways. Sometimes by posting stickers (above), though most just do their best avoid the crowds. One way is to avoid the major tourist attractions. How frequently do you think Barcelona residents want to visit La Sagrada Familia  or Casa Batlló? I have a local friend who only went to La Sagrada Familia for the first time recently…for a work function.

Do Parisians visit the Eiffel Tower on a regular basis, would you think?

Surely the main difference the tourist crowds make is to tourists themselves and traffic flow in the immediate vicinity. If you don’t want to get stuck in queues, don’t go to Casa Batlló : Easy.

And if you really need to get a Gaudí fix without the crowds, try some of the less well-known attractions such as Palau Güell.

Okay, I’ll admit, it doesn’t look great in the image above. But guess what? Most locals I know don’t go to Barceloneta beach.

The same is true of La Rambla. I do my best to avoid the place, though there are some plant sellers with more range than any other suburban places I’ve found.

La Boqueria is difficult. Go early. Avoid the stalls that serve the tourists at the entrance; don’t get in the way of actual shoppers. Head to the back where you’ll find stalls like the amazing Bolets Petràs, specialising in all things mushroom, but also featuring a stunning selection of edible flowers and baby vegetables. This is not a tourist-focused business. And there are plenty more.

Hang around near the La Rambla entrance and you’re likely to want to punch a selfie-stick-weilding tourist – it isn’t great. If this your only experience, you may well think that tourism has ruined Barcelona. But the entrance to Boqueria isn’t Barcelona. Just a small microcosm.

And while paella in ‘a startling shade of chrome yellow’ is a sad reality, the dining scene in Barcelona is otherwise incredible. Arguably the city couldn’t support so many fabulous restaurants without the tourism.

Retire the tropes

Burgen argues – or maybe the sub-editor does, it’s hard to know – that Barcelona was one ‘of the coolest destinations in Europe just two decades ago.’ This is the standard backpacker trope that any destination was much better before it was ‘discovered’.

The crux of that trope is that we travellers (as opposed to tourists) have secret knowledge and are pioneers out in the big wide world ‘discovering’ new destinations. It rather ignores the fact that people already live in those destinations. It was a tired trope before low cost airlines and mass tourism. It is well past time to retire it.

But I will concede a point. I first visited Barcelona around 30 years ago and did feel a sense of excitement about what I experienced.

The difference is technology.

Travellers today are slaves to online rankings. Skip the top 10 ‘sights and landmarks’ on TripAdvisor if you want to get a taste of Barcelona without the mank. Or at least be prepared to find crowds at these attractions.

Has technology ruined travel?

Unfortunately, the on-line-listicle culture does filter into the less-travelled lane. I started to notice queues forming near a favourite local restaurant around its opening time. It took me a while to figure out what that was going on. Somehow it had managed to take the top spot in TripAdvisor for being the best restaurant in town for paella. Thus the queues.

Compared to the ‘chrome yellow’ mush that passes for paella in most tourists places, this restaurant does quite a good job. But it’s hardly the best paella in town. TripAdvisor users are pretty easily led.

And often wrong – the TripAdvisor screenshot below lists one attraction, has a photograph of a different one, and a review of yet another. I was going to say you couldn’t make this shit up, but clearly some duffer has. People trust this rubbish. “The wisdom of the crowd?” Spare me.

If the culture of unqualified recommendation in the lifestyle media wasn’t already bad enough, TripAdvisor takes it to a whole new level. (There’s a whole other blog post in this).

Behaving badly as a tourist doesn’t help. And Barcelona has more than its fair share of badly-behaved tourists. But despite that onslaught, Barcelona’s character is alive and well. You just need to do what the locals do and navigate away from the tourist crowds to find it.

Where to stay in Barcelona

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What to see and do in Barcelona

Check out our recommendations for dining in Barcelona and what to see and do in Barcelona.

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Barcelona is working towards banning short-term private rentals entirely.

Trouble on the Horizon

According to a Euronews report in 2019, “the city centre’s residential population has declined 11 percent in the past four years. A major contributing factor is the amount of apartments being rented out to holidaymakers.” 

One 2019 paper found that 6.84 percent of all rental properties in Barcelona were listed on Airbnb. 

And tourists aren’t necessarily bringing much culture with them. The backlash against tourists that I’ve written about before is not matched by the welcome for immigrants. 

“Immigrants bring their culture and contribute to society,” one Barcelona local told me. “Most tourists just come for a few days and take.”

The Good…

Don’t get me wrong, I quite like the concept of Airbnb. If you have some spare space to rent – which is where the whole Airbnb concept was born – it not only utilizes otherwise unused space, but it also encourages cultural interactions. 

Brilliant.

Even if it is a holiday-house rental, it is at least putting otherwise unused property to good use. It possibly even contributes to making some seasonal holiday destinations feel lived-in, year-round. 

…the Bad…

But there’s a whole other business that has sprung-up with Airbnb: professional hosts. Apparently more than half the Airbnb listings in the US are with hosts that have more than two other listings. 

And Barcelona is a particularly attractive market for professional hosts because of the large difference between the costs of long- and short-term rentals.

Rental arbitrage has been a very lucrative business. Hosts take out apartments on long-term leases and then list them on peer-to-peer sites like Airbnb, and make a very good living, with very little upfront investment. Generally in Barcelona 10 nights of holiday rental income equates to a month’s long-term rental.

…and the Ugly

There are issues though.

Having lived under an (illegal) holiday rental, I can attest that it is more than a little annoying.

Renters arrive at all hours, drag suitcases up stairs, clomp around in high-heels on hard floors, have parties, and generally make nuisances of themselves. If you’re okay only getting reliable sleep between 3am and 6am it’s fine.

On top of everything else, the host doesn’t contribute anything for the extra wear-and-tear or cleaning of the common areas.

The government in Barcelona has had enough. Not only has is not granted any new tourist licenses in Barcelona since 2016, but it aims to phase them all out by 2028.

It is a rare instance of anyone pushing back against excesses of the broligarchy. New York and Berlin have also added restrictions on short-term tourist rentals.

Expect to see more.

In the short-term, if you are renting an apartment, do everyone a favour and enter the address at https://www.fairtourism.barcelona to ensure it is a legal one.

Moving Forwards

In 2024 protestors hit the streets to protest against over tourism.

But tourism also represents around 14 percent of the city’s economy and nearly 10 percent of its employment.

Authorities need to walk a fine line between protecting the city’s identity and culture, while also not tanking the economy. Tackling the excesses of tourism – I’d argue short-term rentals in residential buildings count as that – is a good place to start.

Where to stay in Barcelona

Heading to Barcelona? Check out our hotel recommendations here.

What to see and do in Barcelona

Check out our recommendations for dining in Barcelona and what to see and do in Barcelona.

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The problem with the top 5 Barcelona attractions is in the name – they tend to be crowded with tourists. For visitors wanting a unique and memorable Barcelona experience without the crowds, here are its top 5 attractions, and their less crowded alternatives.

The top 5 attraction: La Sagrada Familia

Barcelona’s most popular tourist attraction saw approximately 4.5 million visitors a year before the pandemic, and you can bet that nearing La Sagrada Familia’s (supposed) completion in 2026 that is only set to increase.

Whether you think Antoni Gaudí’s cathedral is a masterpiece or not (George Orwell was famously in the latter camp) it is an impressive sight, which is why it tops so many visitors’ lists of what to see in Barcelona. Just get set for crowds.

Pros: Nothing else like it in the world

Cons: crowds; basic tickets are €26; it’s a church

The alternative: Hospital de Sant Pau

Properly known as the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, this historic hospital was designed by one of Gaudí’s contemporaries, Lluís Domènech I Montaner. Built just a few blocks away from La Sagrada Familia it may as well be another world. 

This utterly spectacular piece of architecture is not only beautiful, but functional too, with innovations such as a central operating theatre with glass roof, tunnels connecting the operating theatre to the wards, and spectacular Modernista details.

Absolutely one of the best – and underrated – things to see in Barcelona.

Pros: Fewer visitors; functional architecture; you can stroll past the exterior of Sagrada Familia for your compulsory Insta snaps

Cons: Nothing, really

The top 5 attraction: Park Güell

Ten of the first 15 images if you Google “Barcelona travel” are of Park Güell. No wonder it’s busy.

As an attraction, Park Güell has been popular for a long time – local friends tell me they used to visit regularly as kids. But the curse of a World Heritage listing in 1984 was probably what finished that off. These days you purchase a €10 ticket for a particular time, and if you’re half an hour late, you’ve missed out.

The timing is obviously intended to smooth-out the crowds. And there are crowds. 

With green space, views over the city, and some iconic Gaudí architecture like the dragon stairway, it is an Instagrammer’s dream. It started as a residential development – and failed – but now it’s a top 5 Barcelona attraction.

Is it a must-see?

I’m not convinced.

Pros: Views; architecture

Cons: Crowds; away from the centre of town; overrun with Instagrammers

The alternative: Parc de la Ciudad

Sure, the Parc de la Ciudad is a public park. But if you want your Gaudí fix, you can get it here for free. The monumental fountain in the park was designed by Gaudí as a university student.

There are also a number of buildings dating back to the 1888 Barcelona Universal Exposition in various states of repair – some are being restored now – while the Arc de Triumf, which served as the entrance, is an easy stroll away.

More importantly, it’s a place that is full of locals, particularly on a sunny spring day. 

So what you get is a nice park with some interesting architecture, and a slice of local life, as opposed to an attraction full of tourists. 

I know which I prefer.

Pros: Free; interesting architecture; full of locals; easy stroll from El Born

Cons: No views to speak of

The top 5 attraction: Casa Battló 

Another of Antoni Gaudí’s iconic designs on the lovely Passieg de Gracia, Casa Battló always attracts the crowds. You only have to see the beautiful façade to see why it is one of Barcelona’s top 5 attractions.

That it was a renovation of an existing building by Gaudí does not distract from the impressiveness of this as an attraction, but the sheer number of visitors may – there are times when it is difficult to make your way through the crowds of tourists on the wide footpath out the front. 

The façade itself is worth admiring, especially if you baulk at the entrance fees starting at around €30.

Pros: Beautiful, iconic design, arguably Gaudí’s finest.

Cons: Crowds; cost

The alternative: Palau Güell

An earlier Gaudí commission than Casa Battlo, Palau Güell still manages to showcase the architect’s unique vision. Being built from scratch also imparts a wonderful insight into the lives of Barcelona’s wealthiest at the time.

It may be slightly less avant-garde than Casa Battlo, but some of the architect’s unique flourishes point in the direction his future work would take. Not only that, but with furniture in place, you get a real sense of how the building was lived in. Really it is one of the best of Barcelona’s many attractions.

The best bit? You can generally just front-up to purchase a €12 ticket without having to queue.

Pros: A genuine insight into the lives of Barcelona’s wealthiest at the time; seldom crowded

Cons: Slightly dodgy neighbourhood

The top 5 attraction: La Rambla

Who doesn’t like a tree-lined boulevard through the centre of a beautiful city? Certainly not tourists in Barcelona – La Rambla is easily one of Barcelona’s top 5 attractions, and is heaving with tourists most of the time.

Unfortunately, catering to those tourists are tacky souvenir shops, overpriced restaurants serving sickly yellow paella and sangria in beer mugs, and pickpockets looking for easy prey.

Locals tend to avoid La Rambla on all but a few days of the year, and it’s easy to understand why.

Pros: There are a few nice attractions off La Rambla

Cons: Crowds; pickpockets

The alternative: Superblocks

A project to pedestrianize some areas of Barcelona has resulted in so-called superblocks, where the roads in the space of nine city blocks carry limited traffic. One of my favourites is in Sant Antoni, particularly as much of the tree-lined Carrer del Parlament – and its lovely stretch of restaurants and bars – is inside one such area.

The advantages include quieter streets, less pollution and more life on the streets in general. Want to sit on the street and have a drink or a bite? Doing so without choking on fumes (or awful yellow paella) is something you can do here.

If you’re visiting Barcelona to get a feel for how people live, rather than checking-off tourist attractions, this is a great way to do so.

Pros: A slice of real Barcelona life; setting standards for other cities to follow

Cons: Nothing

The top 5 attraction: La Boqueria Market

Having been the site of a market since the middle-ages, and with its pretty structure dating back to the mid 1800s, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria in the heart of the old city is a top 5 Barcelona attraction.

There are restaurants in the market that date back years, and even some stalls that carry produce that can be difficult to find elsewhere. It is a genuine working market.

Unfortunately, it is also largely overrun with tourists. Many of the stalls at the La Rambla main entrance cater solely to tourists, and Instagrammers block the narrow passages for their compulsory ‘look at me’ snaps. 

Pros: Proper working market

Cons: Absurdly crowded at times

The alternative: Mercat de Sant Antoni

The recently refurbished Mercat de Sant Antoni has almost everything that La Boqueria offers, minus the tourist crowds. Even recommending it here makes me feel guilty. But here’s a thought: wherever you are in Barcelona, there’s certain to be a market nearby.

Santa Caterina in El Born is an excellent example, but there is also a range of neighborhood markets where you’re unlikely to even see another tourist: Mercat de l’Estrella, in Gràcia, and Mercat del Ninot in Eixample are just a couple of examples.

Go there, and do yourself a favor: buy some local produce. You can support the stallholders and take home a tasty memory.

Pros: All the local produce you could want; local flavour

Cons: Opening hours can be limited

Head to our home page to discover more about Barcelona’s best attractions, hotels, bars, and restaurants.

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