LushGreenVA

What To Do When Your Indoor Seeds Are Growing Much Faster Than Advertised?

2012-02-07T09:43:00.000-05:00

This is my first year of growing seeds indoors, and I must admit I covered every angle of this process to perfection. I bought the right seeds, grow lights, heating mat etc... and have religiously followed many expert bloggers advice.

In fact I did too good of a job -- my seedlings are growing way too fast! After 10 days, they are where I thought they would be after one month.

Growth has been phenomenal and has exceeded my expectations.

My seedlings began emerging:
Cauliflower-2 days
Broccoli- 3 days
Tomato- 3 days
Lettuce- 3 days
Pepper- 4 days

After about 2 months, I was told I would need to transplant into bigger (3 X 3", or 4 X 4") pots, at which point I would be ready to place them outside in my greenhouse. According to plan, this would have occurred in late March.

However, it's looking like many of my seedlings will be ready for this process before the end of February.

Closer view of a variety of peppers and tomatoes.

A Chilling Thought

The thought of putting these plants outside in a greenhouse in late February is a little troublesome for me. In Virginia the average temperature still dips below freezing on most nights. Even in a greenhouse, this might put too much stress on the little fellas.

My Cauliflower's were the first to emerge, after just two days! They are already several inches high.

Thinking Ahead

For several weeks, my new plants will need a "half-way" house -- between the time they graduate from the seed tray to when they get a new temporary home in the greenhouse.

So I am already starting to plan in advance. Despite living in a small, crowded house with very little extra room, I have identified 6 spaces next to windows where I can place trays. Each tray fits 18 3X3" pots, which will cover 108 plants. 72 plants can go back under my grow lights.

This still leaves several dozen plants unaccounted for. Oh well, I'll have to cross that bridge when I get there.

Next year I will start my indoor seeds one month later ... you live and you learn.

New 2012 USDA Hardiness Zone Map Released - Changes Reflect Rising Temperatures Since Last Release

2012-02-01T07:27:00.000-05:00

Updated once every several years to a few decades, the USDA has released an interactive GIS-based hardiness zone map for 2012. It is also available in static image form for slower connections.

Click image to view interactive link, or use links at the bottom of this post.

Gardeners beware ... the climate has changed over the last several decades and the government has reflected these changes with this new hardiness zone map. Most locations throughout the USA have remained the same or been notched up a half zone.

A half zone increase may not sound like much - it reflects a 5 degree change - but with first and last frost times so critical, one or two weeks could make a difference between plant life and death.

Stuck in-between zones and not sure which zone you belong to? No problem -- just type in your zip code and it will tell you.

Currently, the USDA has not printed any posters of this new 2012 map, but you can download state, regional and national maps in a variety of resolutions and print them yourself.

View Maps:

Interactive version for higher speed internet connections

Static version for slower internet connections

Salmon Colored Sunset

2012-01-22T09:33:00.000-05:00

Yesterday morning I awoke to our first measurable winter precipitation - if you count about 3/4" of a slushy snow/sleet/freezing rain mixture "measurable."

Anyway, the day was followed by spectacular sunset colors. As usual, this unexpected event had me scurrying for my camera - and I took the following pictures:

Garden sign from last year hanging in the foreground. This picture gets me "itchy" to get started again this Spring.

View from ground level next to my two raised herb garden beds. Note the green curly parsley plant that's STILL ALIVE! It's hardy down to 15 degrees - and it's yet to get below that this winter.

Final picture. My vegetable garden will be located towards the back of this photo.

FREE Seed Catalog List. 30 Companies That Will Mail You Their Latest Print Seed Catalogs Cost Free.

2012-01-19T15:03:00.001-05:00

With experts and avid gardeners all ready to begin growing seeds indoors, it's time to get a game plan underway for your Spring garden. Browsing through catalogs is one of the finest ways to get great gardening ideas.

If you're like me, there's nothing like flipping through real-life magazines, newspapers and catalogs (it's just not the same in digital form!). That's why I still order print editions of my catalogs, and yes (in case you're wondering) I do still get my newspaper delivered to my house daily.

All of the following 30 links are verified to be working as of yesterday, January 19, 2012. Just fill out the requested information and these companies will send out a catalog at their earliest convenience. It's that simple.

NOTE: Where indicated, many of these companies also do offer a downloadable .PDF version (or other type of digital download) of the same catalog. Also keep in mind that some of these companies have not yet released their 2012 catalog, so make sure you don't request a 2011 version if you want a 2012.

DISCLAIMER: Unless otherwise stated, LushGreenVA neither personally endorses or opposes any of the following merchants. Please do your own due diligence if you intend to commit financially to these organizations.

THE LIST - FREE PRINT SEED CATALOGS:

Abundant Life Seeds (.PDF version also available)
Organic and biodynamic vegetable, flower, & herb seeds. Also garden supplies and tools.

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (.PDF version also available)
Pure heirloom, open-pollinated vegetable, flower, & herb seeds.

Botanical Interests (.PDF version also available)
Vegetable, flower, & herb seeds.

Bountiful Gardens
Heirloom, untreated and open-pollinated vegetable, flower, herb and other seeds.

Comstock Garden Seeds
Selling seeds for 200 years. Primarily Heirloom vegetable seeds, some flower & herb seeds.

Gurney's Seed & Nursery Co.
Popular company selling vegetable seeds & much more.

Harris Seeds
Since 1879, selling primarily vegetable seeds.

High Mowing Organic Seeds (.PDF version also available)
100% certified organic, non-GMO vegetable, flower, & herb seeds.

Irish Eyes Garden Seeds
Vegetable, flower, herb and other seeds, plus more.

John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds
350 varieteies of vegetable, flower, & herb seeds.

Johnny's Selected Seeds
Vegetable, flower, and herb seeds.

Kitazawa Seed Co. (.PDF version also available)
Specializing in over 250 Asian vegetable seed varieties.

neSeed
Selling vegetable, flower, & herb seeds in small or bulk quantities.

The Online Greenhouse
Some non-GMO and heirloom vegetable & flower Seeds, and other seed starting supplies.

Peaceful Valley Grow Organic
A section of organic vegetable and herb seeds, and open-pollinated flower seeds. Also a bunch of other stuff.

Richters (.PDF version also available)
Herb seeds, extracts, oils & more.

Seed Savers Exchange (.PDF version also available)
Non-profit organization dedicated to saving and sharing heirloom seeds. Vegetable, flower, herb seeds, and more.

Seeds of Change (.PDF version also available)
Organic vegetable, flower, and herb seeds. Also live plants, tools and supplies.

Select Seeds
Rare, choice heirloom flower and plant seeds, as well as a few herb seeds.

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
My favorite, located here in Virginia. Specializing in mid-Atlantic seeds (zones 6-8) Huge and informative catalog full of vegetable, flower, & herb seeds.

Sow True Seeds (.PDF version also available - just click on catalog image!)
Vegetable, flower, and herb seeds. Open-pollinated/non-hybrid & untreated seeds featuring heirloom, organic & traditional varieties.

Territorial Seed Company (online version also available)
Family owned business selling vegetable, flower, and herb Seeds. Also live plants and garden supplies.

The Cook's Garden
Packed with seeds and live plants, including vegetables, annuals, perennials, herbs, garden-ready plants, gardening supplies and more.

Thompson & Morgan
Quality English seeds for over 150 years. Vegetable, herb, shrub and tree seeds + much more!

Totally Tomatoes (online version also available - see link near lower left)
Tomato, pepper and vegetable seeds, plus live plants, roots and berries.

Urban Farmer
Vegetable & herb seeds as well as Spring bulbs, and seed potatoes.

Veseys
Certified organic vegetable, flower, & herb seeds as well as bird feeders, tools and supplies.

Wild Garden Seed
Located in the Pacific northwest. Open-pollinated, untreated and organic vegetable & herbs seeds.

Willhite Seed Inc. (.PDF version also available)
In the seed business for 86 years. Vegetable as well as a few herb seeds.

How To Make A Composter Tumbler From A Plastic Trash Can (In Less Than 30 Minutes)

2011-11-02T22:15:00.001-04:00

You can buy a decent medium to large composter/tumbler for around $100 or more from your local hardware store or an online retailer such as on Amazon.Or, for less than $20, you can easily make one yourself today!

To start and complete your composter tumbler, all you need are the following:

Less than 30 minutes of your time.
Any size ROUND plastic trash can with a SECURE lid ("round" and "secure lids" are important because in order to mix contents, you will need to roll the container on the ground without having the top pop off).
A decent drill with a 1/4" to 1" size drill bit (I do not recommend holes larger than 1" - especially if you're adding kitchen waste - since debris may fall out of the holes).

Steps 1,2 and 3 - Drilling Holes

Drill holes on the top, side, and bottom of your trash can (in any order). This is actually fast and effortless work. I was surprised how easily the drill poked through the plastic - just like a hot knife through butter.

Making your own composter tumbler is not rocket science, so there is no "right" amount of holes - just use your best judgement & don't be bashful (airflow is essential, so you can't go wrong with too many holes). NOTE: The larger the size of your drill bit, fewer holes are necessary.

That's it. Your composter is finished.

Steps 4 and 5 - Adding and Maintaining Your Compost

In a future post, I will explain in more detail the basics of composting (in the meantime you can read this guide). For now, simply add your yard or kitchen debris, always making sure your compost never gets too dry or too wet.

From time-to-time, mix your compostables by laying the composter on its side and rolling it around on the ground a bit.

Congratulations. In several weeks or a few months you'll have the perfect garden food.

If all of this sounds like too much work, or you don't have a drill etc..., you can always buy one. Composting tumblers, such as these,are amazingly cheap and practical.

The Loved & Hated Parsley Worm, Otherwise Known As The Black Swallowtail Caterpillar

2011-10-23T11:47:00.000-04:00

Side view of the parsley worm (Black Swallowtail Caterpillar)

With the first frost on the horizon, I went out for my final parsley harvest of the season - and much to my visual delight, I found two of these beautiful caterpillars resting on the stems of the plants.

Turns out they are actually the Black Swallowtail Butterfly in caterpillar form, appropriately called the Parsley Worm.

The caterpillars I photographed here are in their last stages of growth, shortly before starting their 9 to 11 day chrysalis stage.

Frequently found resting & munching on parsley, they also enjoy the leaves of carrots, dill, celery & parsnips. Signs of their presence include chunks of leaves missing along the edges.

While just a few of these caterpillars pose no major threat to your herbs, many of them can simultaneously eat your plants down to their nubs. Take action when 25% of your plant is damaged.

Range map of the Black Swallowtail & a picture in butterfly stage.

Eliminating parsley worms can be done by using chemical pesticides or picking them off by hand. However, do not use chemicals if you plan on eating your herbs or vegetables. In these cases, you must remove them physically by hand.

Keep in mind that when threatened, these Parsley Worms reveal a forked snake-like small tongue. Though the tongue itself is not harmful, this gland emits a foul odor so you may want to consider handling these insects using gloves.

Close up view of the head & neck area.

If these little critters are doing no major harm, get up and close and enjoy your time with the beautiful Parsley Worm.

The Eastern Carpenter Bee (Macro Photos + Education)

2011-08-30T12:36:00.000-04:00

I started taking pictures of Bumblebees today when I realized these weren't bumblebees at all.

Though these bees look similar to a Bumblebee from a distance (or with eyes blurred), this is in fact a Carpenter Bee -- more specifically the Eastern Carpenter Bee.

As you see in the image below, the Carpenter Bee has a shiny abdomen while the Bumblebee is slightly wider with more fur.

The Eastern Carpenter Bee

Just one of over 500 species of Carpenter Bees in the world, the Eastern Carpenter Bee is the most common such bee in the Eastern United States.

A very docile insect, stings are rare and accidental (such as stepping on one with bare feet). They're made even more remote since the males do not have a stinger, therefore unable to inflict wounds.

While some insects are difficult to sex with human eyes, Eastern Carpenter Bee Males have a noticeable white cuticle area on their face, while the face of a female is completely black.

Original image from Bugguide.net. Map by Mike Boone.

Habits and characteristics

While males only visit flowers to keep themselves fed (or wait for "willing" females), the females gather pollen and nectar from flowers to help build and maintain their nests.

The Eastern Carpenter Bee is a clumsy flyer, often crashing into objects - only to harmlessly bounce off. This is most likely because of their "Jumbo-like" physical structure. They can, however, fly several miles from their nests daily.

This has been a busy bee. Notice the pollen dust on its back.

Similar but very different than Bumblebees

Like Bumblebees, these bees are excellent and noteworthy pollinators. Unlike Bumblebees, Carpenter Bees reside year-round in nests bored into wooden structures - thus earning the name "carpenter."

Though damage from Carpenter Bee's boring habits are not considered extensive (such as that occuring with Termites), it is enough to label them "pests" in many people's eyes. This is because more structural damage occurs when woodpeckers seek out larva from within these nests.

Year-round nesting habits

These bees are crafty woodcutters, however they do not ingest the wood - rather, the females use them to build walls inside their nest tunnels, where they lay their eggs and eventually overwinter.

When the following Spring arrives, the male Eastern Carpenter emerges to look for a mate while the female spends much of its time enlarging its existing nest, or boring a new tunnel nearby. Often the same nest is used year-round for many years.

Though they are neither considered a social or non-social insect, females do appear to form some long-standing bond with their sisters of daughters - frequently living in the same nest, or in one close by.

Male Eastern Carpenter Bee taking off from flower.

Final word

If your home (or any other prized possession around your yard) is not made from wood, there is really no reason at all to hate or discourage these wonderful pollinators.

The Eastern Carpenter Bee is not aggressive and cannot or usually won't sting, plus they encourage growth of any vegetation around your yard.

Do you like or dislike Carpenter Bees? Got a story to tell? Let me know by leaving a comment below.

P.S. Read this touching story about the Carpenter Bee and Her Mate

Funny Harvest: Mouse Doll Potato

2011-08-28T06:21:00.001-04:00

I was harvesting my Red Norland potatoes the other day when I came across this hilarious looking potato.

It looks like 4 potatoes that were conjoined during the growth process.

There's a fat torso with a head and big ears attached. There's even a little tail where the stem was attached!

Trust me, there was no glue or tricks involved here - this is truly the way it came out of the ground.

My first thought was that it reminded me of Mr. Bean's teddy bear, but upon further review, it looks more like a mouse doll.

I think my potato (right) looks more like the mouse in the middle, rather than Mr. Bean's Teddy (left)

Seems like every year I pull something funny out of my garden. Last year it was this odd looking tomato.

NEW LushGreenVA's aStore - powered by Amazon Clutter-free shopping for vegetable gardeners. Every product hand-picked and smartly categorized by me, H. Mikael - many are similar to one's I use myself, including: Composters, Raised beds, Greenhouses/Cold Frames, Rain Barrels, Rear-tine Tillers and Cultivators

Helping Caged Tomato Plants Survive A Tropical Storm Or Hurricane

2011-08-26T12:06:00.000-04:00

With a Hurricane & Tropical Storm bearing upon millions of USA residents, it is sure to bring devastating winds and torrential rains to gardens across the region.

Any plant with a high center of gravity and dense vegetation will be vulnerable to severe damage. Tomato plants fit that description.

Damage to caged tomato plants can be minimized or completely avoided by taking the following steps today:

1. Cut off excess tomato plant growth above the top of the cage (as pictured above). If not removed, rain will make these branches and leaves top heavy and flop around in the wind - increasing the chances of plant collapse. NOTE: I realize this may mean sacrificing a bunch of young green tomatoes, but it's better to take one step back now in order to take two steps forward later.

1b. (Not pictured) Also trim any dead or dying leaves or other excess growth in the middle of the plant. Any extra weight must be reduced.

2. Using appropriate wood for wedges (I'll let you determine what's appropriate), hammer at least two wedges inside the tomato cage (each opposite side from one another) so as to hold and stabilize the cage firmly in place. NOTES: Try to use 4 foot (or longer) pieces of wood and hammer them into the ground at least 2 feet if possible. Also don't worry too much about killing your tomato roots. You're actually only affecting a small percentage of roots.

These are not foolproof methods of protecting your tomato plants from storm damage, but will increase your odds for survival. Much depends on your location, path of the storm, amount of rain and intensity of wind.

Good luck.

Vivid Garden Sunset After Tumultuous Weather Day & Week

2011-08-25T22:24:00.000-04:00

What a week ... Tuesday was the earthquake and this afternoon we had the worst thunderstorm of the year.

Close encounter

Being 35 miles from the epicenter of Tuesday's 5.8 magnitude Mineral, Virginia earthquake - we were shook up real good here in Fredericksburg.

It was quite the experience. It started rather slowly - feeling like the ground next to a passing train. Then it got really violent for about 10-20 seconds before quickly subsiding.

I was working in my backyard-facing garage at the time and after realizing that we were having an earthquake, I quickly walked into the safety of my back yard.

My biggest memories are me thinking "I can't believe this is really happening - what if this is the BIG one?" I also remember looking at my 16 foot diameter pool and seeing ocean-like waves and the water splashing over the edges. It was an awesome sight!

No major damage to the house but the siding all around is now slightly warped like an old phonograph record.

Storm of the year

This afternoon we were pounded with a nasty thunderstorm, knocking out power for about 2 hours.

7 of my 11 tomato plants were tilted to the side or completely knocked over (see image, above right). Fortunately damage was minor with several branches snapped. I added more support and the plants are as good as new this evening.

My pears, unfortunately, suffered worse. Normally we get pears every other year (biennial) but this year I was surprised to see about 100 or so growing.

The wind from today's storm dropped several dozen of my pears to the ground (see image, above left), about one month before being perfectly ripe. All is not lost with these pears though -- I will make juice from them in my juicer.

The coast is not yet clear

Next up is Hurricane Irene, scheduled to side-swipe our area Saturday night.

If anything, this week is a real eye-opener and perhaps a blessing-in-disguise to get me prepared for possible power outages and whatever else the Hurricane may bring.

Finally, before I leave you, another picture of this evening's fine sunset...

NEW LushGreenVA's aStore - powered by Amazon
Clutter-free shopping for vegetable gardeners. Every product hand-picked and smartly categorized by me, H. Mikael - many are similar to one's I use myself, including: Composters, Raised beds, Greenhouses/Cold Frames, Rain Barrels, Rear-tine Tillers and Cultivators

Monday Morning Glory - Dew On Heavenly Blue

2011-08-22T10:15:00.000-04:00

Dew On Wild Morning Glory (Heavenly Blue?) Growing Around The Fringes Of My Garden

I've not been an early-bird for the last half of this summer, so it's a beautiful nice surprise to wake up early and find lovely wild Morning Glory flowers smilin' at me - like I did this morning in my garden.

Appropriately named

Morning Glory is named for its ability to perk up and glow extremely early in the morning - lasting through through mid morning on sunny days (and longer when cloudy). A few rare species bloom at night.

Historically, Morning Glory was first used medicinally in China primarily for the laxative effects of its seeds. It found its way to Japanese shores during the 9th century - where it's believed it was first cultivated as an ornament.

A Nice Hearty Breakfast

There are over 1,000 species of Morning Glory. Except in colder climates, it is generally considered a perennial - coming back year after year. However a few species can tolerate winter cold, yet others are strictly annual.

Very attractive and quickly grown (2 months from seed to sprout), Morning Glory is a vining plant that grows in most types of soil and is capable of reaching 10 feet or more. Some people consider this plant to be a weed because of its tendency to spread and take over in areas where care is not given.

On trellises or fences, these plants spread and create thick summer shade. In fact, some people prefer to grow Morning Glory along the outside walls of their home to help reduce summer cooling costs.

Do you like or dislike Morning Glory plants? Got any favorite types or planting suggestions? Let me know by leaving a comment.

NEW LushGreenVA's aStore - powered by Amazon
Clutter-free shopping for vegetable gardeners. Every product hand-picked and smartly categorized by me, H. Mikael - many are similar to one's I use myself, including: Composters, Raised beds, Greenhouses/Cold Frames, Rain Barrels, Rear-tine Tillers and Cultivators

Habanero Harvest - The Fiery Truth About Making Your Own Hot Chili Powder

2011-08-16T12:54:00.001-04:00

It's been a long time comin.' Last Saturday morning I finished my week long harvest of Habanero Peppers - my first of the season - and decided I'd try my hand at making habanero powder using my fairly new Nesco Food Dehydrator. So far, I've only used this machine to successfully dry herbs.

Before starting I knew what I was in for. Habaneros are the second HOTTEST chili pepper in the world (second only to the Ghost Pepper). This adds to the allure and challenge of making/eating such a potent pepper. Love it or hate it, Habaneros give me a rush unlike anything on this earth.

A little goes a long way, so this batch alone should take me through most of the winter. I will keep some in a small shaker and, like Mustard from hell, I will make mix my habanero powder into a half empty container of my favorite mustard. I might even try to sell some pure powder online.

Before placing in your dehydrator, wash and cut Habanero peppers into 1/2" slices

The dehydration process

With it's conveniently included recipe & instruction guide, I placed my cut habaneros (says to cut them in 1/2" slices) in the Nesco Food Dehydrator and turned it to 135 degrees. Though the drying time is said to be 3-20 hours for peppers, my batch was finished closer to the 20-hour range.

Harvest weight vs. dehydrated weight

Out of the 16 ounce harvest, I used about 14 ounces for dehydration (kept a few fresh ones for myself). After a day of dehydrating at 135 degrees - and then grinding into dust - I finished with just 3 ounces of powder. This means that 75 to 80 percent of my habanero pepper weight was moisture (water).

Just how much powder can one healthy habanero plant make in a season?

Out of curiosity I will be keeping a running tally of exactly how much powder a good habanero plant can produce in a general growing season (Zone 7).

Judging by this first harvest, I would estimate that each plant may produce 8-16 ounces of powder.

Though I will not be making powder from the majority of my habaneros, I can weigh my fresh harvest and - deducting 80% from that weight - determine a minimum seasonal powder yield. At season's end, I will report my findings and add an addendum to this blog post.

What I like about the Nesco Food Dehydrator is that it does a great job drying herbs, nuts, meats, fruits and of course vegetables at precise temperatures. This is important, because it enables your food to maintain valuable nutrition otherwise lost using a microwave or oven to dry your foods. In addition, the Nesco Food Dehydrator is expandable up to 12 trays! (I only used 5 on this occasion) - perfect for large drying projects. If you're worried about small herbs or food falling through the cracks, you can buy specialized plastic screens to help minimize loss.

Cautiously painful experience

Trust me, habanero pepper juice & powder WILL get on your hands (and eventually everywhere else) throughout this whole process. At 30 times the calibur of jalapeno peppers, just touching a habanero can be enough to set off extreme bodily reactions for some folks.

Dehydrating in an open space, such as the kitchen, can bring tears to other household members.

Breathing near the dust of newly ground-up habaneros can literally take your breathe away for a few moments - or set off allergic-type reactions.

Cleaning or handling utensils/dishes etc. used to make habanero powder may leave residue on your hands - only to realize it hours later when you wipe your face (or even worse, when you use the bathroom).

Final tally - about 3 oz.

My personal recommendations for making habanero powder:

1) Wash your hands often and thoroughly when handling habaneros - this includes after harvesting, cutting, working with the dehydrator and food grinder, and cleaning afterwards. If possible, wash your hands by using concentrated dish cleaning soap or something such as heavy duty garage hand-cleaner. Do not use just plain water.

2) Since this is such cautious and delicate process, I would recommend waiting long enough to make ONE HUGE batch - rather than making several smaller batches throughout the season. This can be done by freezing peppers until you're ready. Peppers do not have to be blanched to be frozen, and while peppers lose their crunch when put in a freezer - this does not matter for dehydration purposes.

Further study: Nesco Food Dehydrator

New Farmers Markets Up 17% in the USA Last Year. 10 States Report Increases of 30% or More!

2011-08-12T15:31:00.002-04:00

It's a great day to be alive when farmer's markets are experiencing unprecedented growth, as they are year-over-year as indicated in this new USDA government press release.

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, there are now 7,175 farmers markets in the country, up from 6,132 just one year earlier - an increase of around 17%.

Of the total number of farmers markets reported by market managers, nearly 12 percent indicate they have the capability of accepting SNAP (formerly known as food stamp) benefits onsite. This represents a 16 percent increase in the number of markets accepting SNAP benefits since 2010.

"The remarkable growth in farmers markets is an excellent indicator of the staying power of local and regional foods," said Agriculture Deputy Secretary Kathleen Merrigan. "These outlets provide economic benefits for producers to grow their businesses and also to communities by providing increased access to fresh fruits and vegetables and other foods. In short, they are a critical ingredient in our nation's food system."

According to the report, the following states recorded the highest increase in the amount of farmers markets. The top-10 list for growth is as follows:

Alaska (35 markets, up 46 percent)

Texas (166 markets, up 38 percent)

Colorado (130 markets, up 38 percent)

New Mexico (80 markets, up 38 percent)

Indiana (171markets, up 37 percent)

Oklahoma (61 markets, up 32 percent)

South Dakota (29 markets, up 32 percent)

Pennsylvania (266 markets, up 31 percent)

Ohio (278 markets, up 31 percent)

Michigan (349 markets, up30 percent)

Reasons for the rise may include a continued depressed economy, a more health-conscious society, and a changing demographic in USA (a rise in immigrants to America over the last several years and decades).

Photo by Joe Mabel

As this National Farmers Market Week comes to a close tomorrow (Saturday, August 13th), please take time this weekend to help your local farmers and regional economy by buying local at your nearest farmers market.

If you've yet to visit one of these markets, you're in for a treat. Not only does it get you out in nature, but you'll get to mingle with lots of friendly folks, get to know some of the farmers themselves, and of course come home with great food.

Advantages include freshness, availability of more organic produce, affordability, and depending on the size of the farmers market - great variety and selection.

Find your local farmers market online. The USDA National Farmers Market Directory is available at http://farmersmarkets.usda.gov

The Magnificent Monarch Butterfly

2011-08-11T22:55:00.000-04:00

Here I go again - another installment of my 2011 butterfly series (also see my posts on the Eastern Tiger Swallowtail and Variegated Fritillary).

Today, it's my photos and new-found knowledge of the Monarch Butterfly - hope you enjoy :)

About the Monarch Butterfly

With an easily recognizable black and orange wing pattern (3.5-4" wingspan), the monarch butterfly is perhaps the most well known of all North American butterflies.

Though they feed on a variety of nectar plants, milkweed is the plant of choice for monarch butterflies.

In fact, adult females lay their eggs on the underside of milkweed leaves (which hatch in 3-12 days) and after birth, milkweed becomes the exclusive diet of the monarch caterpillars.

A butterfly of distinction

What makes the monarch butterfly distinct is that - similar to birds - it's the only butterfly to make lengthy migrations north & south annually.

But, unlike birds, NO ONE monarch butterfly makes the complete trip. It takes 3 to 4 generations to complete the journey cycle.

The first three generations live just 2 to 6 weeks each while making the trek northward. The last generation lives up to nine months, and are responsible for re-migrating to the same spot every year - south to Mexico, Texas or parts of Florida.

Adapted from original Wikipedia Commons photo by authors Harald Süpfle & Wiz9999

The great unknown

The big mystery to scientists is how the species returns to the SAME spots each Fall (to overwinter).

It is believed that the flight patterns of monarch butterflies are either inherited, or the butterflies use other natural forms of navigation, such as the positioning of the sun.

Top image is Monarch Butterfly in Caterpillar stage. Bottom two images are closeups of butterfly torso area.

Love of flight

While monarch butterflies travel extraordinary lengths - up to 3,000 miles to overwinter, they have also utilized their strong flying skills to fly elsewhere.

In fact, they are one of the few insects capable of crossing the Atlantic ocean.

In Bermuda, for example, they are becoming increasingly common as humans are more and more growing milkweed as an ornamental plant in their flower gardens.

If wind conditions are just right, some years find the monarch butterflies as far away as Great Britain.

These beautiful butterflies are extremely common and far from endangered.

Staying alive

Unlike many other butterflies, the monarch butterfly is toxic (due to its milkweed diet) and distasteful to birds and other mammals - helping preserve survival of the species.

It's believed that the bright colors of both the caterpillar and the adult's wings serve as natural warning colors to predators.

Final words

Like all insects the Monarch has six legs, however it uses only four of its legs as it carries its two front legs against its body.

Adult males will frequently gather in and around damp soil or wet gravel in an activity called 'mud-puddling.'

Landscaping Using Your Own Garden Rocks

2011-08-08T10:46:00.004-04:00

After tilling, thousands of new rocks are unearthed in my garden

If your garden is full of small (or big) rocks, don't get mad -- use them to your advantage.

This year I decided that after each ground tilling session (about once a month), that I would take time to walk through, collect and store all the newly unearthed rocks from my garden.

These will be used when the weather cools for landscaping around the yard.

With the garden freshly tilled the day before (and ready for Fall vegetable seed planting), yesterday was "rock picking-up day."

My personal method of collecting and storing rocks

Nabber

If you choose, the most effective way to collect the most rocks is to get on your knees and pick up the rocks as you crawl around. Another method is to bend, stoop and pick up the rocks but this is harder on your back and joints.

However, I personally prefer to use a nabber (pictured, above right - click image for more info). This allows me to nearly effortlessly collect rocks without any bending or much bodily stress. But even this device isn't perfect -- after a while, the nabber does strain your hands and wrists a little, so I wouldn't recommend this device if you have arthritis or weak hands/wrists.

Before beginning, I place numerous empty plant containers at various points equally spaced apart (image 1, above). This ensures that all containers are merely a nabber reach away - reducing unnecessary walking around.

Decide what size rocks you want to collect. For me, the rocks have to be the size of a quarter or bigger.

Next you simply use your nabber to pick up your rocks (image 2a), and place them in the closest container you see (image 2b). Walk around and collect rocks from the entire area until you're finished.

When you're done collecting, empty each container (image 3a) into your transport of choice - in my case, a wheelbarrow (image 3b).

Transfer and dump your load (image 4) to a collection pile somewhere around your yard.

Keep repeating every time after tilling, or in places where you have used your hoe. Rocks seem to unearth all of the time.

Your rocks can be used anywhere. Here I've used them to circle plants.

If you have a fairly large garden and lots of rocks - as I do - each year should yield enough rocks for several large landscaping projects. If your garden is smaller with fewer rocks, it may take years to collect enough rocks to do anything significant. But it's all worth it.

Final words

Get in the habit of keeping a bucket for rocks near your garden at all times. Rocks have a strange way of "just appearing," and gathering them as you go expedites your collection efforts.

HINT: The best time to pick up rocks is after it rains and dries off a bit. The rain cleans the dirt off the rocks and makes the mud darker -- the resulting contrast makes seeing the rocks much easier

SUGGESTION: Got children around? Wanna get them involved around the garden? Consider offering a child some monetary or other reward to collect the rocks. You can pay them by the bucket-full, by weight, or however you choose.

When Should You Harvest Your Sugar Baby Watermelons?

2011-08-06T08:28:00.004-04:00

Just a few of my six Sugar Baby's currently growing from 2 plants

While an experienced melon grower has little problem determining when to harvest their sugar baby watermelons, the rest of us may need a little help to get it right.

Here are 6 ways to determine the right time to harvest and enjoy your sugar baby watermelons:

Follow instructions and harvest when you're supposed to. On a calender, note and keep track of the maturity date. This is usually listed on the back of your seed packet. If you don't know your specific type of sugar baby watermelon, most are ready for harvest around 80 days (give or take a week).
Check the curly tendril that attaches your sugar baby watermelon to the stem. If it is still green, then it is very much alive, healthy and growing and NOT ready for harvest. If the tendril is brown and dry, it may be prime for picking. NOTE: Start paying close attention daily as it begins turning from green to brown. This will ensure peak ripeness.
Thump it with your fingers. This method works best with experience, but can give you valuable clues. When ripe, the sound will be deeper and more low-pitched than younger melons.
Look at the skin color and feel it's texture. When harvest nears, the color gradually turns from bright green to a slightly duller hue and the texture starts to feel somewhat rough. These methods are also born from experience but are an excellent determining factor for ripeness.
Test it with your fingernail. When ripe, the skin of the sugar baby watermelon will be more difficult to indent with your fingernails.
Check the underside of your watermelon. If the belly is creamy-white (for seeded varieties) or golden yellow (for seedless), it may right for picking.

Notice the tendril attached to the stems on 2 of my melons. They are not brown and dry yet - therefore they could use more time

Final words

As your sugar baby watermelons get close to harvest, reduce or stop watering completely. This prevents hollow craters inside the melon, and promotes higher sugar content - resulting in better taste.

When brought inside, store your melons between 50 and 60 degrees.

DISCLAIMER: Before using any information contained in this blog entry, you are advised to do your own due diligence and research on the topic and/or consult with a qualified expert or professional.

Last Chance Vegetable Plants (Zone 7)

2011-08-03T20:32:00.009-04:00

Hard to believe it's August 4th already, but if you live in USA hardiness planting zone-7, you can still plant seeds now for harvest before first frost, presumably sometime later in October.

As I explained in this post, plants listed here are based on information primarily for Zone 7 Virginia gardeners, though this reference is probably valid for MOST gardeners located in hardiness zone 7 throughout the United States.

What You Can Still Plant (the sooner the better):

Cucumbers
Summer Squash
Broccoli
Brussel Sprouts
Chinese Cabbage
Cauliflower
Collards
Lettuce (leaf & Bibbs)
Mustard
Turnips

Remember, just because I don't mention it here, it doesn't mean it can't be planted. Do your own research -- you may be surprise what you may still plant.

Extending the growing season

Many keen and avid gardeners can extend the growing season by utilizing plant survival techniques, allowing them to plant later and harvest later.

These include covering vegetation with tarps or other covers to prevent frost damage, watering before sunset to help trap warm air near the soil surface, or use cold frames (mini-greenhouses)

Adjacent Zone's 6 and 8

Because this post focuses specifically on Zone 7 (mid-Atlantic to be more precise), I can't speak for hardiness zones 6 (cooler) or 8 (warmer).

Common sense would say it may be getting late in zone 6 for the plants discussed here, and you may have more time in zone 8, but please do your own research.

Final Word

Do you know any other vegetable (or herb) that can still be planted in Zone 7 ? Share a comment and let me know.

What To Do When Squash Bugs Attack Your Pumpkin Patch?

2011-07-31T09:16:00.005-04:00

I am only growing one pumpkin plant this year, so it's imperative I take special care of it. Though it's been a little "slow out of the gate," it's shown good signs of life during the last week or so. Unfortunately that "life" is not just plant matter, but bugs ... big bugs ... I'm talking about the dreaded Squash Bug!

In recent days I have seen & identified a few of these creatures, and today when I saw two sets of eggs - I had had enough. It's time for action. Though I'm 99% organic, the ONLY product I ever use is GardenTech's Sevin-5 Dust. I use this powder on rare occasions, like today (16-32 ounces seems to last me a year). According to the label, it's supposed to kill Squash Bugs (I'll post an addendum on this post later to let you know the results).

Last evening I studied these bugs - as they relate to pumpkins - and am further devising a game plan to rid these monsters before they put a kibosh to my 2011 Halloween vegetation. So far about 80% of my plant is in good condition.

Squash bug damage on a pumpkin plant leaf

The most difficult garden pest?

Many people consider the squash bug the most frustrating and difficult of all garden pests. For one, there appears to be no universal solution that works for everyone. Secondly, they overwinter extremely well and can return year after year (getting worse each growing season), making it sometimes impossible to ever successfully grow squash, pumpkins or other melons again.

Like any pest that multiplies rapidly, early-season or early-plant-stage intervention appears to be the best defense against squash bug infestation & damage.

Human versus Squash Bug

Unfortunately, manual control may be your best & most effective remedy. Removing each bug by hand (one at a time) and crushing their eggs can help control your local squash bug population, but must be performed on a regular basis to be most effective. Since eggs take at least a week to hatch, egg detection can be performed once-a-week.

Mulch and other debris must be kept to a minimum. Squash bugs love to hide, and removing any mulch or other garden debris left lying around keeps them from wanting to hang around.

This "hiding" tendency amongst squash bugs can also be used to your advantage. Laying boards or wood around the base of your pumpkins makes a perfect overnight hangout for squash bugs. In the morning, flip the wood over, and you're likely to see many squash bugs huddled conveniently together, perfectly queued for mass extermination.

Eggs (& Closeup) As Laid On Leaf Of a Pumpkin Plant

The Bitter Truth - You May Need Chemical Intervention

Organic methods of controlling the Squash Bug appear to be limited. Yes I found a few "folk remedies" by some wise old gardeners swearing upon their success, and Neem Oil seems to work for some. I did run across this website, which suggested the use of Diatomaceous earth/pyrethrins applications around the base of the plant (the website says it's allowable in Certified Organic vegetable production). If anyone else wants to try this, let me know of your results.

If you're going to use insecticides, look for esfenvalerate, permethrin, or carbaryl as the main active ingredient and be sure to spray the under-side of the leaves, as this is where squash bugs do much of their damage.

As I mentioned earlier in this article, I use Sevin-5 on rare occasions. Squash bugs are listed as one of 65+ bugs it's said to kill.

Timeout To Enjoy The Variegated Fritillary Butterfly

2011-07-30T13:57:00.003-04:00

Well it seems like suddenly I've become a butterfly enthusiast and photographer. After all, last week I posted about my experiences with the Eastern Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly.

Truth is, blogging has made me keep my camera nearby & thus - much to my amazement - I seem to notice and enjoy things that I've overlooked in the past. I don't wake up and say "hey, I'm gonna go out & photograph butterflies today." Rather, they somehow just seem to find me.

This week, another beautiful butterfly caught my eye. After researching I thought I'd stumbled upon the Great Spangled Fritillary (similar), but it turns out to actually be a Variegated Fritillary.

While also residing in many parts of South America, this beautiful butterfly is primarily seen in the eastern 3/4 of the continental United States (with the exception of the extreme north-central & northeast).


Caterpillar/Range Map

The mid-sized & nomadic Variegated Fritillary Butterfly is a much lighter brown-orange than other Fritillaries, such as the Great Spangled Fritillary. They are low & swift flyers.

Difficult to approach and easily scared, I considered it a privilege to capture this butterfly on camera (though it did take a lot more patience than my experience with the more relaxed Eastern Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly last week).

Living from around April through October (slightly shorter life farther north), these Fritillaries usually have between 2-3 broods per year.

These butterflies love open fields and meadows, sunny prairies & pastures, and can be seen along road edges and near landfills. They'll also frequent their favorite nectar food sources, including milkweed, dogbane, peppermint, red clover, thistles, alfalfa, butterflyweed, fleabane, common boneset, coneflowers, asters and more.

Finally, Variegated Fritillaries are not a threatened species globally, but may be considered a minor pest to ornamental pansies and violets.

Free Mulch By the Truckload? It May Be As Close As Your Local Landfill !

2011-07-27T17:23:00.003-04:00

In a world where middle-men thrive and everyone seems to get a piece of the pie, it's rare to get anything good for FREE anymore.

Many gardeners are unaware that mulch, which usually goes for $4 to $10 a bag at a store, may be obtained free - right in their own community. Further yet, you may be able to load up your entire truck bed -- and come back for more tomorrow!

How is this possible? Well, many landfills provide the service of disposing peoples brush, which piles up quickly on their lots. As a courtesy, they shred these piles of discarded vegetation, and offer you - the resident - the opportunity to use this recycled matter as mulch.

Is free mulch available where I live?

Whether or not your landfill offers mulch depends on many factors such as whether the landfill is located in a urban or rural location, or if there's enough vegetation in your region to make this courtesy feasible. Usually, the availability of landfill mulch falls under one of three options:

Mulch is not offered at all.
It is offered, but in limited quantities.
The mulch is offered FREE, or at some cost.

Either way, you can check for availability by visiting your local landfill, calling your local government office for information, or checking on the internet -- many jurisdictions offer all the information you need on their website.

If mulch IS offered at your local landfill, keep in mind the following:

There may be a daily or weekly limit (although I wonder who really pays attention).
It may be offered for local citizens only (with proof of residency required).
Availability may be limited or seasonal - on a first come, first served basis.

Though some landfills will load your pickup truck for you - usually for a fee, most offer the option of manually loading the mulch by yourself. Of course you'll need to come properly equipped. For best results, you should show up with the following:

High boots to help move around the mulch pile more efficiently and prevent mulch chips from getting inside your shoes.
A nice, large pitchfork. You can use a shovel but trust me, nothing picks up mulch better than a pitchfork.
A truck with an open bed, or if you're picking up smaller quantities -- large containers (such as garbage bins), or large durable plastic bags ("durable" the key word here).

What type of mulch can I expect?

The type of mulch offered may vary widely from region-to-region depending on local vegetation types, and the time of the season.

For example, in areas where a lot of pine trees grow, the mulch may be more pine-based, whereas Florida residents may have more chopped-up palm trees in their mix.

Also, certain times of the year may yield different variety, such as in Fall or Spring when people prune & "tidy-up" more often.

Here on the east coast, the mulch is a pretty good mix of everything - and the quality is fairly consistent no matter what time of year I visit.

What's the quality like?

If you're expecting "fine," colored or specialty mulch like those found at your hardware store, you will be disappointed. This mulch is not that.

Based upon my personal experience at my local landfill, the free mulch I get is somewhat dull and light brown in color and, overall, the wood chips are slightly bigger, and more irregularly shaped than store-bought versions.

Because it's free, authorities utilize less manpower, money & attention to the entire process.

Commercial shredding operations may check for inconsistencies (such as plastic among the wood, and larger chucks), and may run their wood chips through a shredder several times to create better consistency.

The mulch at landfills, on the other hand, is usually shredded just once and not checked for inconsistencies.

Many residents are just lazy and rather than separating their brush from regular trash, some will throw everything in the brush pile. Therefore, amongst the wood chips, you'll occasionally find bits of "whatever else" - which you'll have to manually discard. This is usually not a big problem, but only a minor inconvenience.

Negative aspect.

Well you knew there has to be a catch. You know the old saying, "if it sounds to good to be true, then..."

Free mulch also comes with the 'unknown factor.' There is no way of telling whether your mulch comes from brush that's been previously tainted, treated or killed with harmful chemicals, or to which degree? Over time, when this mulch decomposes into the ground, will it have a harmful effect on your vegetation?

Added (7/28): As pointed out by WDCGardener on Twitter, Poison Ivy (or oak) is often discarded and mixed-in with the mulch. Therefore, although you should use them anyway - gloves are an absolute necessity when handling this mulch and of course don't allow it to come in contact with other parts of your skin.

Personally, I have used this mulch for years and all my vegetation appears to be growing without any noticeable problems (nor have I been infected with poison ivy - and yes, I am allergic to it).

Suggested uses.

With its somewhat dull hue & inconsistent appearance, free landfill mulch may be best suited for backyard use, or in places where it can't be easily seen by the public.

As a money saver, I like to use this mulch in combination with quality, colored commercial mulch. Placing your free mulch underneath the good mulch can add up to big savings. For example, 3 inches of free mulch covered by 2 inches of good mulch, saves your wallet 60%.

Final note.

Courtesy should be practiced and applied when transporting your free mulch. If you load a pickup, or otherwise are transporting an open load, please cover your mulch with a tarp (or other similar material) to help prevent debris from flying all over the place. Depending on your jurisdiction, it may be unlawful to do otherwise.

Famous Short Quotes & Sayings About Animals & Insects

2011-07-24T16:37:00.002-04:00

J.Adamson

"Since we humans have the better brain, isn't it our responsibility to protect our fellow creatures from, oddly enough, ourselves?" - Joy Adamson

"Keep a green tree in your heart and perhaps a singing bird will come." - Chinese Proverb

B.Fuller

"There is nothing in a caterpillar that tells you it's going to be a butterfly" - Buckminster Fuller

K.Lorenz

"I have found the link between animal and civilized man; it is us." - Konrad Lorenz

"Rabbits have a habit of coming for breakfast and staying for lunch. Now there's one leaf instead of a bunch." - Gerry Krueger

M.McClure

"When a man does not admit that he is an animal, he is less than an animal. Not more but less." - Michael McClure

E.Dickinson

"I hope you love birds too. It is economical. It saves going to heaven." - Emily Dickinson

"An animal's eyes have the power to speak a great language." - Martin Buber

W.Churchill

"Odd things animals. All dogs look up to you. All cats look down to you. Only the pig looks at you as an equal." - Winston Churchill

G.Eliot

"Animals are such agreeable friends - they ask no questions; they pass no criticisms." - George Eliot

"There's nothing in which the birds differ more from man than the way they can build & yet leave a landscape as it was before" - Robert Lynd

I.Kant

"He who is cruel to animals becomes hard also in his dealings w/ men. We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals" - Immanuel Kant

N.Hawthorne

"Happiness is a butterfly, which, when pursued, is always just beyond your grasp, but which, if you will sit down quietly, may alight upon you" - Nathaniel Hawthorne

"In nature a repulsive caterpillar turns into a lovely butterfly. But with humans it is the other way around: a lovely butterfly turns into a repulsive caterpillar" - Chekhov

Extreme Heat Vegetable Gardening: 11 Ways To Keep Your Garden Lush Green

2011-07-21T07:11:00.005-04:00

Though it's been hotter than normal yet once again virtually all summer here in the mid-Atlantic states, we've yet to hit triple-digits on a recurring basis -- until now. The weather forecast calls for 100-103 degrees in my area today, Friday & Saturday.

My garden has held up extremely well so far this year. Except for the dying browning leaves of the potato plants (which is normal in any year/climate), my garden is maintaining its lush green hue.

But now it's time to get serious - to show what man vs. nature can do.

First & foremost, do not pay attention to the 'heat index' - rather focus your attention only on the temperature. The heat index measures a combination of temperature and humidity, and indicates how it feels to us humans. Since humidity is actually moisture content in the air, plants are not as negatively affected by it as humans. In fact, one can argue that plants (especially those tropical in nature - such as tomatoes & peppers) may actually benefit from the natural wetness humidity brings to the air. So even though we humans may suffer more when it's hot & humid as opposed to hot & dry, plants react opposite.

Develop a good watering 'game plan.'

1) Prioritize which plants need to be watered more & most frequently. Pay special attention to wilting or dying plants, and vegetation that naturally relies on more watering, such as melons, tomatoes etc. New plants also need more water than established ones because they are still trying to grow & establish roots needed for long-term survival.

2) During the heat wave, watering should only be attempted early in the morning or later in the evening. Mid-day watering may cause the moisture to evaporate more quickly and/or result in wilting of leaves. Generally speaking, try not to water between the hours of 10am & 7pm.

3) Before watering, allow the sun-heated water already inside the hose to exit before spraying in & around your vegetation. The plants are already stressed and pouring 150 degree water on them cannot be good. NOTE: I have recently read stories of people pouring ice cubes around their plants. This, too, actually stresses the plants rather than help them. Do not do this.

4) Using a hoe, self-irrigate or create temporary water flow channels as I show in this post. If you happen to get a rain shower, this helps direct excess water where it's most needed.

5) To also help prevent water run-off on dry hard dirt, loosen soil with a hoe by tilling the radius from between 6 to 18 inches from the plant stem (tilling too close may damage roots). This helps allow the ground to better soak up more moisture, more deeply. Water run-off can also be prevented by watering less more often, rather than watering more less often. In other words, water for 5 minutes twice a day rather than for 10 minutes once.

6) Since water on leaves should be avoided, so too should be the use of sprinklers. During hot & arid times, resort to watering with containers (like I explain in this post) or use a hand-held hose. Each method allows you to water only where it's most needed -- at or around the base of the plant. Better yet is the use of a drip irrigation system or a soaker hose. Each waters more slowly right at the soil level, preventing evaporation.

Additional tips.

1) Don't use fertilizer until after the heat wave subsides. Since fertilizer promotes new growth, it also boosts the need for more water.

2) Adding mulch around the plant is more important than ever. One or two inches of mulch helps retain water moisture & prevent the soil from drying out as fast.

3) Don't be afraid to prune back plants that appear to be suffering from the heat wave. However, don't attempt to prune if you're only trying to stimulate new growth - plants challenged by the heatwave will not benefit.

4) Removing weeds is especially important during these scorching, arid times. Each ounce of water is more valuable than ever, and sharing with weeds should not be an option.

5) Avoid spraying your plants with products that contain oil. The extreme heat combined with oil residue left behind may result in leaf burn.

Final word
Use this heat to take a much needed break from gardening -- only harvest & water as needed during the early or late day hours. Consider your time indoors (in air conditioning) like a mini-vacation, or use this extra free time planning your second-half vegetable garden. Lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower (among others) can still be planted going forward in most parts of the country.

And remember, heat waves are usually (but not always) temporary. Exerting extra effort for a few days or few weeks now will reward you with healthier crops going forward.

Resources for this article:

eHow- How to water plants in extreme heat
CBS news- Help your garden through a heat wave
Lohud.com - Coping with a garden in a heat wave

*DISCLAIMER: Before using any information contained in this blog entry, you are advised to do your own due diligence & research on the topic and/or consult with a qualified expert or professional.

Up Close & Personal With the Eastern Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly

2011-07-19T17:00:00.002-04:00

It's always good to have your camera nearby, and it's even better when it has a macro function (ability to take extreme clear closeup images).

Though I've probably seen a million of these beautiful butterflies in my lifetime, for some reason I've never had an inclination to look at one of these at close range. Yesterday, for some odd reason, I became fixated on this eastern tiger swallowtail butterfly. And I decided to start a little photo shoot.

As usual, after taking my pictures, I went inside to "develop" (download & edit) my digital photographs and do research on this common, yet remarkably beautiful butterfly.

All my life I had simply known & described this butterfly as large, colorful, and/or beautiful without ever knowing its name.

With a little online research I come to find that it's called the Eastern Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly.

"Eastern," because it's a native butterfly primarily found in the eastern United States (see range map below).
"Tiger," because of the distinct tiger-like markings, especially found on the male.
"Swallowtail," because their long "tail" on their hind wings is similar to that of swallows (birds).

The Eastern Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly (known scientifically as papilio glaucus) is not considered to be a threatened species, due to its ability to live nearly everywhere that some foliage or forestation is present. This includes rural fields & woodlands, rivers & creeks, roadsides & gardens, and even in many urban locations.

It's so popular that four states (South Carolina, George, Delaware & Alabama) have named this butterfly their official state butterfly. Virginia (my state) decided to go one step further, labeling it their official state insect.

Known as powerful, quick & strong fliers, adults can frequently be seen above tree canopies. With their colorful appearance and wide wing span between 3 & 5 1/2 inches, they are hard to miss.

The Eastern Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly is diurnal (only active during the day). Though generally solitary, males are known to congregate in "puddling," where they huddle near each other around puddles, mud or damp rocks. These activities are believed to help them extract necessary amino acids & sodium ions beneficial for reproduction.

Adults have a wide range of food sources, but prefer nectar from sturdy plants having pink or red flowers. But they also may feed on urine or dung from other insects or animals.

To eat food, it uses a long & flexible tube-like proboscis tongue (as seen clearly in my picture below) to sip liquids. This proboscis can coil & uncoil as needed.

The lifespan of the Eastern Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly extends from Spring through Fall, during which time they produce two or three broods (two in northern climates - where lifespan is slightly shorter, and three farther south).

As with most butterflies, birds are their chief predator. In caterpillar stage, squirrels, raccoons & shrews (among others) may find them appetizing.

Further research:

Enchanted Learning
Wikipedia

Spiny Pigweed: The Name says It All About This Filthy Weed

2011-07-17T10:48:00.004-04:00

As I've gotten older & wiser, I've also become a firm believer that there is a purpose and reason for the existence of virtually every living thing on this earth. Everything is designed to work in unison as part of this large diverse eco-system.

But then came spiny pigweed, also known as spiny amaranth.

When this ugly, spiny, fast-growing, even faster spreading, invasive weed started showing up all around my garden this year -- I obviously wanted to know more about it from a weed control standpoint. But I also was driven to find out what its purpose was here on this earth.

Well, believe it or not, this plant is being utilized today throughout the world to treat numerous medical conditions. I'll get more into that later in this post. But first, let's take a closer look at spiny pigweed.

What is this weed?

Spiny Pigweed is native to America and is frequently found in bare ground areas of pastures where the ground is compacted, but can also be found in agricultural garden areas. This may explain why this weed primarily shows up in my manure-laden vegetable garden in-between rows where I tend to walk more often and compact the dirt (but it does also show up between and around my plants as well).

Growing fast, spiny pigweed should be removed as it first appears. It is important to identify and eliminate this 'annual' early during the growing season. If allowed to go to seed early, it has a tendency to spread like a plague & grow all over the garden. If not removed, it quickly grows to several feet or more in height, and produces 100,000 or more seeds per plant (seeds mature about 4 weeks after flowering). These seeds will continuously germinate throughout the summer months, spreading like wildfire with each successive rainfall. Furthermore, they tolerate drought extremely well.

Unfortunately I was not aggressive enough with spiny pigweed early-on this season, partly due to lack of education about the plant. Now I'm stuck spotting & removing these weeds on a daily basis, adding to all the other obligations in maintaining a fairly large garden. Next year I will know better.

Removing Spiny Pigweed

This nasty looking weed cannot be pulled out of the ground with your hand (even when using gloves), as it features numerous 5-10 mm thorny spines, capable of penetrating the toughest leather. You must use an appropriate tool to effectively dig the roots out of the ground.

Removing spiny pigweed is especially troublesome when it grows right next to your "good" vegetation. If this occurs you can either attempt a risky operation to remove the weed (possibly damaging the roots of your good plant), or just allow the weed to share the space while continuously cutting it back near ground level.

After removal from the ground, spiny pigweed must be bagged and removed from the garden premises to prevent existing seeds from scattering.

Closeup of stem

Control

If your garden methods are organic, your options to control this weed are minimal. Vinegar, at 15 to 20% concentration (regular household vinegar is usually about 5%) may be effective, but care & further research should be undertaken to make sure the vinegar does not harm your 'good' plants or soil. All spiny pigweed plants should be removed before flowering & seeding.

The good news is that spiny pigweed is not a perennial. However, if they're invading your garden this growing season, their scattered seeds will likely result in another visit next year. Early prevention in 2012 will be your best defense.

Herbicides can be used to kill existing spiny pigweed plants, but should be applied early in growth stage -- preferably at 2 inches in height or less, but certainly under 8 inches. At this stage of growth, success rate can be as high as 80-90%. Atrazine, Dopont Upbeet, Glyphosate, Gramoxone, Dicamba (among others) may be effective herbicides. If you wish to attack and kill spiny pigweed before they emerge from the ground, Oryzalin, Trifluralin or Pendimenthalin may be your best bets.

For a detailed overview of helpful herbicides, click here, or read this PDF document.

Flowering end of branch where some of the plants over 100,000 seeds eventually form.

Medicinal benefits. Yes there appear to be many.

Though not anywhere near renowned as, say, Echinacea for it's ability to prevent or cure illnesses, spiny pigweed is used in many parts of the world (mostly in Asian & African countries) to treat numerous medical conditions, including:

Mouth ulcers
Vaginal discharges
Excess menstrual bleeding
Bloody noses
Wounds
Internal bleeding
Diarrhea
Snake Bites
Fevers
Dysentery
Urinary conditions
Gonorrhea
Eczema
Colic
Menorrhagia
Breathing difficulties
Earache
Inducing abortion
Burns
Boils
Ophthalmia
as a diuretic

Closeup of spiny pigweed leaf, usually 1-2" in length.

Edible, if you so desire

The good news is that spiny pigweed is not poisonous to humans (though it is toxic to many animals) & can be safely consumed. In addition, it has extremely high nutritional value, and can be fried, cooked or steamed. The seed can also be ground into healthy flour.

Now the bad news. This plant is popularly known as famine food. Though eaten regularly in a few suspect third world countries, its bitter & otherwise less desirable taste (along with its many spines) makes this plant a food of "last resort" in most worldwide locations. It's primarily only used when other vegetables become unavailable, such as in times of drought (it's a fairly drought tolerant plant).

Still, if you're ever lost in the woods or wilderness and come across this plant -- it can help keep you alive.

Other uses

Dyes. Ash from the plant has been used in Cambodia to create grey colored dye for cloth. Green & yellow dyes are also reported to be made from parts of the whole plant.

Final words

This may be the longest non-scientific piece written on this horrific weed ... well, someone had to do it! Consider yourself educated.

After reading and researching this piece I now have a new found respect for spiny pigweed. It does have "some" purpose, but I still loathe it anywhere in my yard.

*DISCLAIMER: Before using any information contained in this blog entry, you are advised to do your own due diligence & research on the topic and/or consult with a qualified expert or professional.

Famous Short Gardening Quotes & Sayings, Volume 1

2011-07-10T03:41:00.005-04:00

Ken Druse

"When gardeners garden, it is not just plants that grow, but the gardeners themselves." - Ken Druse

"Confronted with the vision of a beautiful garden, we see something beautiful about ourselves." - Jeff Cox

William Cowper

"Gardening imparts an organic perspective on the passage of time." - William Cowper

"If you would have a lovely garden, you should live a lovely life." - Shaker saying

Joseph Joubert

"All gardeners live in beautiful places because they make them so." - Joseph Joubert

"Because a garden means constantly making choices, it offers almost limitless possibilities for surprise and satisfaction." - Jane Garmey

A. Pope

"All gardening is landscape painting." - Alexander Pope

"How deeply seated in the human heart is the liking for gardens and gardening." - Alexander Smith

Monty Don

"You do not need to know anything about a plant to know that it is beautiful." - Montagu Don

"Earthworms are the intestines of the soil." - Aristotle

Joseph Addison

"I value my garden more for being full of blackbirds than of cherries, and very frankly give them fruit for their songs." - Joseph Addison

"If you have a mind at peace, and a heart that cannot harden, go find a door that opens wide upon a lovely garden." - Author Unknown

Alfred Austin

"Exclusiveness in a garden is a mistake as great as it is in society." - Alfred Austin

"Poor indeed is the garden in which birds find no homes." - Abram L. Urban

William Blake

"The thankful receiver bears a plentiful harvest." - William Blake

Resource:
Our Paths In The Valley