While vinyl flooring is renowned for its durability and ease of maintenance, it isn’t immune to the occasional unsightly rust stain, often resulting from hard water. But fret not! Removing these stains doesn’t have to be a daunting task. In this guide, I’ll walk you through effective and safe methods to bid farewell to those pesky rust stains, all while ensuring your vinyl stays in near-new condition.

So, let’s roll up our sleeves and dive into the world of rust removal, tailored specifically for vinyl flooring.

Understanding Rust Stains on Vinyl Flooring

Rust stains on vinyl flooring are typically caused by hard water, which is rich in minerals like iron. When this water evaporates from the vinyl surface, it leaves behind iron particles that oxidize, creating rust stains. These stains are notably stubborn and require specific cleaning methods for effective removal.

It’s crucial to note that vinyl flooring, despite its durability, is sensitive to certain cleaning agents. Harsh chemicals, such as abrasives, solvents, bleaches, and ammonia, can damage the protective coatings of vinyl, leading to dullness and additional wear. Therefore, the challenge lies in choosing a cleaning solution that is effective against rust while being gentle enough to preserve the integrity of the vinyl.

In the following sections, we will delve into methods that strike this balance, ensuring that your vinyl floors are not only rust-free but also maintain their luster and longevity.

Homemade Remedy for Cleaning Rust Off Vinyl

The average household will have these everyday products, but if not they are also relatively inexpensive to pick up at your local grocery store.

Start by getting dish soap, baking soda, a bowl of water, and rags ready and head to the rust-stained area. Spread a layer of baking soda over the rust stain and wet your rag with the soapy water.

Gently massage the rust-stained area for a few minutes and then rinse the floor with water. You’ll likely need to repeat this process a few times until the rust stain has lifted. The concept behind this is that the baking soda will oxidize the stain and the soap will help to loosen it leaving you with a floor that looks like new. If the baking soda doesn’t seem to be enough you can also try wiping the area with rubbing alcohol after rinsing it with water and before applying more baking soda.

Many other sources on the internet will recommend vinegar and baking soda together to remove stains, but grade five science teaches us that mixing these two ingredients doesn’t do much more than give us a nice bubble show and some saline solution. You can read more about the science behind why it’s a fail here. Don’t waste your time and money doing this.

Store Bought Vinyl Cleaner for Rust Stains

Most home improvement and grocery stores will carry products that you can use to remove rust stains from your vinyl floor. Look for an oxalic acid solution or powder but keep in mind that this powder is toxic so you’re going to want to wear gloves, open your windows, and maybe even a mask while you’re using it.

One I have used before and like is Iron OUT Liquid Rust Stain Remover (Amazon Link).

Follow the instructions on the container and as always it’s recommended to test the cleaner first (if you saved any scraps from the installation it would be a good idea to test the cleaner on a scrap piece of vinyl first).

As mentioned above, it is important to avoid products that have a high concentration of bleach. These products can cause even bigger issues like leaving white splotches that cannot be removed. You are also going to want to avoid chlorinated floor cleansers, for the same reason.

Preventing Rust Stains on Your Vinyl Flooring is Best

The key is to prevent rust stains from occurring in the first place.

A few good ways to help ensure you don’t encounter rust stains are by avoiding using nails to install your vinyl flooring, not splashing large amounts of water onto the floor, and using waterproof mats and a shoe rack to avoid puddles and water accumulation during wet seasons.

For most of these projects, we’ll give you a rough idea of what special skills, if any, you’ll need to complete them, as well as an estimate of the cost and time involved. This is not a how-to, however. You’ll want to do your research before you drag out the power tools and try to make “improvements.”

Let’s dive into the list of indoor projects that can make your home more livable, and your winter feel less long:

Easy and Cheap Winter Home Improvements

Let’s start with a few quick, simple projects that anyone”

1. Change Your Furnace Filter

Ideally, you should have completed this task, along with a few other winter maintenance essentials, before the chilly weather arrived. Filters last about three months when you’re using your furnace regularly, so you may need to do this more than once if it’s an especially long and brutal winter.

• Skills: Any homeowner can do this. You’ll just need to note the size and type of filter you’re replacing before you go out and buy a new one, and make sure the new one is facing in the same direction as the old.
• Cost: You can find furnace filters for as little as $10. High-quality filters will catch dust mites and other allergens and are often worth the extra cost if you’re prone to allergies, says David Berger, a home-improvement expert at DDS Construction and Remodelling.
• Time: This task should take just a few minutes once you have purchased a replacement filter.

2. Wash Your Windows

Even if you’re stuck indoors, that doesn’t mean you can’t improve your view of the winter wonderland outside. Winter’s a great time to wash the inside of your home’s windows. You can tackle the other side of the glass when it’s bearable to step outdoors.

• Skills: All you need is some basic hand/eye coordination, and possibly a decent sense of balance if you’ll be cleaning tall windows using a step stool.
• Cost: Most homeowners have window-cleaning supplies on hand. Use crumpled newspapers to polish your windows until they shine.
• Time: Berger estimates you’ll spend 15 to 30 minutes for an average window. Break it up into several shorter sessions if you’re short on time and/or have lots of windows.

3. Insulate Your Water Pipes

Adding insulation will save you money by reducing heat loss in the pipes that carry hot water. You also won’t wait as long for hot water when you turn on your faucet.

• Skills: Any homeowner can do this.
• Cost: You can insulate pipes by wrapping them in several layers of newspaper and duct tape, or you can buy pipe insulation made of foam or other materials. The cost is minimal, typically around 30 cents per foot.
• Time: A few minutes to an hour or so, depending on how many pipes you have and the type of insulation you use.

4. Dye-test Your Toilet

Andre Ryan, president of Lakeside Plumbing in Cayamant, Quebec, says most people whose toilets are wasting water don’t even know it. 

“A toilet that is constantly running wastes a lot of water and could cost little to repair,” he says.

Put five drops of food coloring in your toilet’s tank, wait 10 minutes and see if the color comes into the bowl. If it does, you know you have a leak. The most common cause for a leak is a defective flapper, the rubber mechanism that allows water to exit the tank when you flush. That 10 minutes of your time could end up saving you a lot of money on your water bill.

• Skills: No special skills required.
• Cost: All you need is some food coloring, which many homeowners will likely have on hand.
• Time: Just 10 minutes.

Medium-difficulty Projects

These tasks will require a bit more of your time, and you may need to do a little research before you get started to be sure you understand all of the steps involved. Don’t be afraid to hire a professional to consult on a do-it-yourself job or even to get you started.

If your project involves plumbing or electrical work, it’s probably a good idea to get a permit.

“A permit means someone is inspecting your work and making sure it is being done to county codes,” Berger says. “When they know a homeowner is doing it, the inspector will take more time and explain how to do things.”

5. Regrout Your Bathroom Tile

This project is a little more labor intensive, but definitely doable, Berger says. You may want to regrout the tile because it’s old and dirty, or because you’ve decided to go with a different color of grout. Either way, you’ll first want to clean out the old grout.

“My first stop would be a tile store,” Berger says. ‘Tell them what you’re trying to do and they’ll get you the right tools.”

You’ll be using some version of a grout scraper, which is designed to remove the loose and aging grout from between tiles. You’ll also be using a lot of elbow grease.

“It’s hard work,” Berger says. “You’re trying to manually remove all that old grout, because you do have to clean all of those gaps before you regrout. You’re scraping up and down every grout line.”

Be careful not to scratch the tile as you’re cleaning out the grout. Once you’ve scraped out the old grout, remove it by vacuuming and wiping down the tiles. Then you’ll usually use some kind of primer to prepare the surface before you go in with new grout.

Putting in the new grout will be much faster than removing the old. Once your grout is mixed, you’ll trowel it onto the entire surface, working it into the joints between tiles. Let it sit for 20 or 30 minutes — read the instructions on the grout you purchased — then wipe down the tile surface, leaving the grout that is embedded in the joints. Once it sits for 24 hours or so, you can apply sealant.

• Skills: Patience and a steady hand.
• Cost: Grout scrapers (Amazon Link) start at about $15; a pound of grout powder starts at $7 to $10.
• Time: A handy homeowner can complete this in a weekend, including drying time. Just remember that your bathroom will be unusable while you’re working.

6. Paint a Room or Two

Whether it’s time for a new coat or you’re sick of the pale pink the last homeowner loved, painting can be a quick and inexpensive way to renew and change a room. Painting is a perfect winter project, but it can be time-consuming. And Berger warns that even water-based paint has a smell.

You can ask a local paint store for help selecting a paint color and deciding how much paint you’ll need to cover the walls in a room. They can also help you pick the right brushes and rollers.

Remove curtains, light fixtures, electric outlet covers and as much furniture as you can from the room you’ll paint. Protect the floors and any remaining furniture with dropcloths and tape off doorways and windows. Fix any holes and cracks before you start painting the room, and be sure the wall is clean and smooth. Depending on the paint you use, you may want to apply a layer of primer. If you’re painting the ceiling, it’s usually best to do that before you start on the wall.

Make sure you allot plenty of time for your painting project and remember that any furniture you move out of the room will probably stay out of the room for a day or two, depending on how many coats of paint you apply and how long it takes to dry; read the label on the paint you purchase.

• Skills: Previous painting experience is helpful, but a patient first-timer can get the job done.
• Cost: Varies. A gallon of paint averages $30 to $50. Plan on one gallon per 350 to 400 square feet. You may also need to purchase other supplies such as primer, brushes, rollers and dropcloths
• Time: A day or two per room, including drying time, depending on the size of the room and the number of coats of paint you apply.

7. Install Flooring

Pergo and laminate flooring is designed to go on top of an existing floor and is a great project for do-it-yourselfers, says Alex Waters, a flooring contractor in Orange County, Calif.

Waters says he prefers Pergo to laminate, and encourages homeowners to spend a little more per square foot to get higher-quality flooring. Be ready for a small learning curve if you’ve never installed a floor yourself.

“I would recommend taking one of those classes at a home-improvement store,” he says.

Installing hardwoods is a lot more complicated and time-consuming, but Waters says it’s still doable if you’re willing to put in the time and effort to do it right.

“It takes practice and practice and practice,” he says. “If they took one of those classes where they can tell you the best place to start and what to look out for and which areas to undercut, then you can see what you’re getting into before you make your decision.”

Installing carpet may be a job best left to a professional. It involves putting down carpet tack, seaming the carpet in the joints and stretching it. Berger says do-it-yourselfers without previous experience are not going to be able to pull it off.

“Buy the carpet and get it in the house, then hire an installer,” he says. “You’re going to just go crazy if you see ripples where it’s not stretched properly, and you’ll end up paying someone to come out and fix it.”

If you have commercial carpet with rubber backing that just lies over a floor, you can do that yourself, he says.

• Skills: Patience
• Cost: The price for flooring ranges widely, but starts at $1 or $2 per square foot for laminate. Waters warns against going with the very cheapest, however.
• Time: Plan to spend at least a weekend installing Pergo or laminate. “The first time they do it, even a small bedroom is going to take a couple of days,” Waters says.

8. Install a New Lighting Fixture

Dan, (my husband, CoFounder of Making this Home, and owner of 4Wire Electrical if you haven’t checked out our about page yet) says homeowners can do basic 1-1 fixture swaps themselves, but that caution must be taken to do things correctly and not cut corners.

“I see a lot of simple mistakes made that do not seem to matter to someone who is not a trained professional but can become a major safety hazard,” he says.

He said I really need to stress that homeowners should only do swaps of existing fixtures, read the instruction manual for that fixture in full, and still call a professional if they are the least bit unsure.

If you’re taking on an electrical project at home, including installing new lighting or changing out a switch or wall outlet, do your homework. In addition, Dan pointed out these four things:

1. Shut off the power, then test to be sure the power is off. Some rooms in your home may have more than one circuit, so don’t trust that the power is off just because one light in the room no longer works.
2. Always read the instructions completely.
3. Never cut wires short; this creates loose connections, which cause most electrical fires.
4. Don’t leave green, bare or grounding wire disconnected.

Pay careful attention to how a light fixture is installed so you can put the new one in correctly, Merritt says.

• Skills: Basic understanding of electrical wiring, and willingness to do your homework.
• Cost: Depends on the light fixture being installed.
• Time: An hour or so

9. Replace a Faucet

Ryan says most faucets can be replaced by a handy homeowner. He suggests downloading the manufacturer’s instructions online so as not to damage the faucet body by using incorrect tools or parts.

“Remember that replacing the insides to the faucet is the easy part,” Ryan says. “Acquiring the correct part, locating the correct tool and resisting the temptation to pry out the old part or bang on the faucet to loosen the old part is the more difficult aspect of the repair.”

A professional at your local hardware store can help you determine which faucet fixture will be the correct fit for your sink and be sure you have the right tools for the job. Videos online can walk you through each step of the process.

Always remember to turn off the water source before attempting any repair, Ryan says.

• Skills: No special skills needed; just be sure that you know what you’re doing and that you have the correct tools before you get started.
• Cost: The cost for a bathroom faucet ranges from less than $10 to well over $100.
• Time: A couple of hours, after you have the new faucet and all the tools.

10. Replace a Toilet

While a homeowner could complete this task himself, Ryan warns that it requires a strong body to lift a toilet, and a handy mind to complete an installation.

“Toilets are made of china and can easily cut someone, so the utmost care must be displayed when working with a toilet,” he says. “I would not suggest this to a ‘weekend warrior’ unless they are committed to spending a lot of time and have someone to help them.”

If you are committed to do it, do your research. Watch a video online, read a how-to book or take a class. Again, remember to turn off the water to the fixture. You’ll also need to drain the tank by flushing the toilet to remove excess water.

• Skills: Physical strength, patience, previous experience.
• Cost: Toilets cost from less than $100 to well over $2,000 for fancy, designer models.
• Time: To be on the safe side, plan to have your toilet out of commission all weekend.

Three More Projects for Advanced DIYers

These projects are only for homeowners who have experience or are willing to take the time to acquire the knowledge needed to get the job done.

1. Tile a Bathroom Floor

This project is time-consuming and requires a lot of attention to detail. You’ll lay the tile out on a dry floor first to determine the layout, then mortar, lay tile, grout and seal. 

2.  Finish a Basement

Finishing a basement requires knowledge of framing, electrical work and insulation.  “If somebody wants to, you bet you can do it,” Berger says. “All of your weekends are booked, but you can finish it in a winter.”

3. Refinish a Hardwood Floor

This is one that Berger doesn’t recommend for homeowners, unless they have previous experience. It’s a dusty, dirty project and usually involves a very powerful floor sander. “If you’ve done it before, more power to you,” he says.

Berger and Ryan advise homeowners to expect a project to take at least twice as long as your original estimate, and require an extra trip or two to the hardware store.

“Any project is doable if you have the correct tools and experience,” Ryan says. “That is what a homeowner pays a professional to provide. If you do not have the correct tools or are not willing to acquire the tools or the knowledge for your project, then I would leave it to the professional and do something you enjoy.”

Dryer Vent

Perhaps the most overlooked cleaning space in your home, the dryer vent may be the most important: the U.S. Fire Administration estimates that more than 15,000 dryer vent fires occur each year when lint collects in the vent and hot air causes it to combust.

To clean, move the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the vent tube where it attaches to the dryer, then use your vacuum cleaner hose to get the lint out and reconnect the tube.

Plan to do this at least once a year, and clean your dryer’s lint filter before every load. Also remember to clean your dryer’s lint filter before every load to maintain efficiency and safety.

Ceiling Fans

They can be such great energy savers — moving cool air up in summer and down in winter — but ceiling fans can also be real dust catchers.

With the fan turned off, dust or vacuum the outside of the motor casing. Then tackle each of the fan blades, paying special attention to the blade tops because that’s where most of the dirt will be hiding.

A soft cloth can accomplish this task. Special cleaning brushes are also made for fans that hang out of reach. Avoid using any form of detergents or soaps to clean the fan, and when cleaning the blades, be careful not to apply too much pressure, as this may alter the blade pitch, and decrease airflow efficiency. You can learn more about ceiling fans here, including what blade pitch is about.

Dust your ceiling fans monthly to prevent dust accumulation. In seasons of heavy use, consider a quick dust-off every few weeks to keep them running efficiently and cleanly.

Over and Under the Refrigerator

If you can’t see it, it’s not a problem, right? Not necessarily. Kitchen air isn’t just dusty, it also includes grease that makes dirt especially hard to remove.

A sturdy chair or step stool will help you reach the top of your refrigerator, but if you’d rather keep both feet on the floor invest in a bendable and extendable dusting device like a Swiffer or one of the less-expensive alternatives.

With your dusting cloth at a right angle, you’ll be able to easily sweep dirt away. Once a month or so, grab your vacuum and run the brush attachment over the vent at the bottom of your fridge; you’ll keep it running more efficiently, which will save you money.

And once a year (at least) ask someone to help you roll your refrigerator away from the wall so you can thoroughly clean the floor underneath.

Under the Kitchen Sink

If you keep a garbage can under your kitchen sink, as many people do, it’s important to pull everything out occasionally and give that area a thorough cleaning to remove stray bits of food waste that didn’t make it into the can. O

nce you have everything cleared out, vacuum first to remove solids, then use a mop or sponge with a grease-cutting cleaning solution.

Heating and Air Conditioning Vents

If you’ve never pull the louvered vent cover off your heat vents, you may be surprised what you’ll find in there: dirt, dust, pet hair — and anything that might fall or roll in. Unless the vent is screwed down, you can easily pull it up, vacuum inside, then clean the vent cover and replace it.

For floor- or wall-mounted vents, regular vacuuming with your brush attachment will keep things tidy and help your HVAC system run more efficiently. For a thorough cleaning of your entire vent system, it’s best to call a professional, because your home vacuum won’t have enough suction to get the job done.

Tall Windows

Regular maintenance will go a long way toward keeping your tall windows clean and shiny, because dust and dirt are harder to remove when they are allowed to set. So get in the habit of regularly dusting your tall windows.

You can buy a tool for this, or make your own with a microfiber cloth attached to a long pole. When it’s time to wash the windows (most people do this in spring and fall) that same pole can be put to use by spritzing the clean dusting cloth with window cleaning product or a less-expensive solution you make yourself.

I use a fairly inexpensive microfiber squeegee combo a lot like this one (Amazon link) that’s both good for dusting (the microfiber part) and washing outside. For washing your windows inside you’ll want something a little less drippy though.

Chandeliers

All of those lovely crystal drops on your chandelier create a warm and inviting glow over your dining table or entrance hall, but they are also notorious dust catchers. A vacuum cleaner will dispatch the dust, but it might also damage your delicate chandelier.

Here’s where a long, lightweight pole (bamboo works well because it’s easy to handle in tight spaces) with a feather duster or microfiber cloth on the end will help you reach all the nooks and crannies. If your chandelier is very intricate, you may want to get the ladder out and wash each crystal individually. If this task seems daunting, there are cleaning experts who can help you.

Under the Bed

It’s impossible to clean under the bed without getting down on the floor, but the extendable wand that comes with your vacuum cleaner will do the work and you’ll see where you’re cleaning.

This is especially important to catch stray clothing or shoes that wandered under the bed.

Or maybe your cat.

Bookshelves

To keep your bookshelves looking tidy, it’s enough to sweep away dust with a washable cleaning cloth. Feather dusters are fast but not very efficient, because they kick up dust that settles back again. If your books aren’t delicate, take your brush attachment and vacuum the tops of your books once a month when you do your regular cleaning.

Every year, take each book off the shelf and wipe it with a dry cloth, then thoroughly clean the shelves before replacing your books. Keeping books clean and dry will help to preserve them.

Soaking Tub

If you’re lucky enough to have a luxurious soaking tub in your bathroom — but not lucky enough to have someone to clean it — you know that scrubbing all areas of the tub can require back-breaking agility.

Enter the humble rag mop. Get one with a pivoting head (like this one) and you can gently clean anywhere in the tub without risking your safety or scratching the tub. These mops are also great for cleaning the highest areas of your shower.

Reminder: It Doesn’t All Have to Be Done At Once

And there you have it, the scoop on tackling those tricky spots in your home. Keep in mind that the little efforts add up. Regular touch-ups beat marathon cleaning sessions, and staying ahead of the game means less work down the road. Your future self will thank you! So, roll up those sleeves, grab your trusty cleaning tools, and show those hard-to-reach spots who’s boss.

Happy cleaning!

This buyer’s guide will specifically look at shower bases, walls and doors. Showers are available in two common types, one where the base is a bathtub, and one that is strictly a shower – this buyer’s guide will focus on shower only.

Some shower bases and wall come together as a package but often times the pieces can be selected separately based on style and material preferences.

Shower Construction Materials: From Acrylic to Cast Iron Bases?

A basic shower base will be made most likely from acrylic while higher end bases are acrylic reinforced with fiberglass for a longer-lasting product. Another option would be cast iron shower bases which are known for fighting bacteria but will require an appropriate cleaner and cannot be scrubbed with wire or steel wool sponges or brushes.

Alternatively, for a leakproof base shower base liners are available to create the base for a concrete shower base which can be decorated with tiles or rock for an aesthetic look. Rubber bases are also used for people concerned with safety hazards of a slipper shower base.

As for shower walls, the most common material would be glass with either aluminum or brass accents. Glass is available in clear or frosted. Frosted glass doesn’t look dirty as quickly as clear and provide an additional layer of privacy for someone showering but clear glass adds the look of luxury and precision to the bathroom.

Measuring for the Perfect Shower Fit: Tips and Tricks

It is important to find the best size shower for the bathroom to ensure the maximum amount of room for showering without overbearing the rest of the bathroom making it uncomfortable to navigate in and out.

To determine the best size shower for a bathroom, determine where the shower will be installed (keeping in mind it will need a drain and a place to install water faucets) and measuring the available space. Keep in mind that there are shower bases available for corners as well as flat walls which allow for the most efficient use of space.

When shopping for doors simply ensure that their size corresponds with the size of the shower base.

Selecting the Best Shower Doors: Hinged or Sliding?

Shower doors typically come as part of the shower wall set. Shower doors can be hinged to open and either close or be on a track to slide open, depending on your personal preference.

Investing in quality shower walls and doors will ensure a longer-lasting product that is less likely to do things like fall out of its slider or fall off its hinges.

Shower Sets: All-in-One Solutions

If you do not want to purchase the walls and base separately there are shower enclosures available for sale which come as a complete package.

Shower enclosures are made from the same materials and the same considerations should be taken when shopping for an enclosure as opposed to walls and a base.

DIY vs Professional Shower Installation: What You Need to Know

Showers are usually installed when a house is being built or doing a remodel.

Installing a shower by yourself can be a difficult task and if DIY projects are not something you do regularly it might be best to hire a professional to install the shower for you. Things you will need to install a shower include:

• hammer, screw drivers,
• measuring tape, a level,
• cement board,
• drywall screws,
• tile,
• lumber for blocking,
• leveling materials, and
• all the parts of a drain.

Key Considerations Before Purchasing Your Shower Set

When shopping for a shower base and walls consider things like which direction the door will open (or if the shower door is able to be installed to open either direction is ideal), how heavy the package will be when arrives and how you will get the pieces up to the bathroom where it will be installed.

Conclusion: Final Touches for Your Bathroom Project

That wraps up our guide on choosing shower walls and bases. For a complete bathroom setup, you might also find these guides useful:

• Shower Heads, Valves, and Drains: Get the details right with our Shower Heads, Valves, and Drains Buyer’s Guide. It’s got the practical info you need for a functional shower setup.
• Toilet Choices: Also shopping for a new toilet? Check out our Toilet Buyer’s Guide for solid advice on what to look for.
• Bathroom Sink Options: If you’re updating your sink, our Bathroom Sink Buyer’s Guide can help you choose the right one.
• Bathtub Selection: And if you’re in the market for a bathtub, don’t miss our Bathtub Buyer’s Guide.

These guides are here to help you make informed decisions for your bathroom renovation or build.

Still, finding the right toilet to suit your home and family needs is an important undertaking with a lot of information involved, and we mean to assist you in doing it right!

Toilets are an essential part of every bathroom. Having the perfect one in your bathroom can greatly improve your bathroom decor. There are many different types and styles of toilets you can choose from to find the perfect one for your home, so let’s go over the basics.

Choosing the Right Toilet Bowl: Round vs Elongated Options

There are two standard types of toilet bowls available, round or elongated. They are generally made from vitreous china. Choosing which bowl is right for your needs is the first thing for you to consider, and will help to narrow the selection down considerably.

• Round: These bowls are terrific for small or second bathrooms and powder rooms where space is at a premium. There are a great variety of seats for the round bowl, as they are the most commonly used, least expensive option.
• Elongated: Typically more comfortable, elongated bowls (usually oval shaped) are classically styled, tend to be about 2” longer than round bowls and have larger water surfaces which makes them ideal for a more powerful flush while using less water. They work well in larger and high-traffic bathrooms.

Bowl height is another important consideration. There are basically two types: standard, which is usually 14-15” high, or chair height (ADA approved), which tend to be 16”-19” high. The latter are great for taller people and folks with back or leg problems, too.

A couple of additional features you might want to be on the lookout for when shopping are sanitary bars and trapways. Sanitary bars block liquids from collecting under the tank at the back of the bowl, and the trapway is the snakelike tubing found on the sides of toilets that water flows through. The larger the trapway, the less chance you have for clogged toilets!

Toilet Styles Breakdown: One-Piece, Two-Piece, and Wall-Hung Toilets

This particular choice will matter not only in how your system looks, but also how it fits into your bathroom, how easy they are to clean, and the level of noise they produce.

• One-Piece: A complete unit including: tank, bowl, lid, seat and various hardware. These are easy to clean, and the one-piece design means that there are no openings that could leak between the bowl and tank.
  Another name for a one-piece toilet is “low profile”. One-piece toilets are also a good source of ADA approved selection.
• Two-Piece: In this case, the seat, bowl, and tank are purchased separately. When done this way, the parts are generally less expensive than a one-piece toilet – just make sure you get all the necessary parts! This is the most commonly used type of toilet, and it is easy to find replacement parts for them.
• Wall-hung: These eliminate the need for a toilet foot or base, and are usually more expensive than the other two choices. In addition, they are difficult to install as the tank is contained within the wall, and difficult to repair if needed. However, there are positive points to having the added expense.
  Wall-hung toilets are a great choice for modern bathrooms, they save a lot of space, produce a quieter flush, and are much easier to clean. Also, if you or a loved one uses a walker or wheelchair, you will find many ADA compliant choices available to you.

Understanding Flushing Systems & Tanks: A Guide to Efficient Toilets

Most toilets have the same water capacity, and as of 1994, all of them are federally mandated to use 1.6 gallons or less of water per flush – as opposed to the previous 3 to 7 gallons used by older models. When it comes to flushing, a reliable toilet that produces enough power to clean out the bowl is key, but that does not necessarily equate to being expensive.

There are two standard types of flushing systems:

• Gravity flush: These use water’s weight to provide pressure, making use of the trapways previously mentioned to siphon waste away. It is a very quiet option and require less maintenance. On the other hand they are also more apt to clog, and since the limitation of water flow per flush, are less likely to rinse the bowl clean.
• Pressure-assist flush: Developed after the water flow standardization mandate as a means to meet the necessary requirements, they force air into the bowl to make the water and waste go down the drain; this design reduces the chance for clogs.
  While definitely a better alternative to the gravity flush when it comes to cleanliness, these originally tended to be pricey, noisy, and could require continual, expensive maintenance. There have been improvements over the years to help reduce the amount of noise generated, so by all means investigate this option. You can expect savings in your water bill!

A crucial thing to keep in mind is that the toilet’s flush valve, which rests inside the tank at the very bottom, should be as large as possible so as to make for a more powerful flush. Smaller valves tend to catch, keeping water flowing even after it is no longer necessary and being wasteful.

Selecting the Perfect Toilet Seat: Comfort, Material, and Design

While it might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of bathroom interior design, toilet seats can actually be a fantastic way to liven up the room and coordinate with existing décor.

Shapes will depend on the type of toilet you purchase, materials being comprised of real wood, cushioned vinyl, polypropylene and molded wood composition, to name a few. Some can be contoured for more comfortable seating, and many attractive designs offer heating options – just make sure the sea you choose fits your system!

Toilet Installation Essentials: Navigating Rough-Ins for Your Bathroom

A final but vital step is to find out how much room you’ll have available for the toilet rough-in. Standard measurements require 12” between the wall and the floor drain, but it could be anywhere from 10”-14” in total, especially in older homes.

You can figure out your existing rough-in distance by measuring from the bolts in the middle of the base to the wall, and if you are replacing the toilet, use those measurements when making your final choices.

Conclusion: Your Journey to the Perfect Bathroom Continues

And there you have it – your comprehensive guide to buying the right toilet for your home. Remember, the perfect toilet not only complements your bathroom’s style but also meets your functional needs. But why stop here? Your journey to creating the ideal bathroom doesn’t end with just a toilet.

• Dive Deeper into Bathroom Essentials: If you’re looking to upgrade other aspects of your bathroom, check out our detailed guides. For instance, our Bathroom Faucet Buyer’s Guide is a must-read to find the perfect blend of style and utility for your sink.
• Enhance Your Bathing Experience: Consider exploring our Walk-In Tub Buyer’s Guide for a blend of luxury and accessibility, or our Bathtub Buyer’s Guide for a variety of options that suit your space and style.
• Shower Solutions: Don’t forget the shower area. Our Shower Base and Walls Buyer’s Guide and our Shower Heads, Valves, and Drains Buyer’s Guide offer insights into creating a shower space that’s both functional and stylish.
• Sink into Style: A bathroom sink is more than just a functional element; it’s a style statement. Our Bathroom Sink Buyer’s Guide will help you choose the right one for your space.
• Tub Spout and Systems: For a truly relaxing bath experience, the right tub spout and system are key. Our Tub Spout and Systems Buyer’s Guide delves into the various options available.

Each of these guides is designed to give you clear, actionable advice, just like this one. So, whether you’re planning a full remodel or just a few updates, its my hope they are all you need to make your bathroom the best it can be!

What are Casement Windows?

So, what are casement windows? Casement windows are hinged on the side and crank open outward to the left or right allowing for full top-to-bottom ventilation. Common above kitchen sinks, casement windows give you the flexibility to group them in different combinations so you can create the look you want.

Casement windows offer a ton of benefits over other types of windows, including:

• They provide excellent ventilation.
• They’re easy to clean.
• They’re energy efficient.
• They can be customized to fit any size or shape of the opening.
• They’re widely available.

I’ll talk more about the benefits below, but if you’re considering casement windows, knowing the different types is important first off.

Types of Casement Windows

When picking casement windows, it’s all about finding the right fit for your space and style. Here are the main types you’ll come across:

1. Single Casement Windows

These windows have one pane that opens outwards from one side, either left or right. They’re a solid choice for nearly any room, offering a mix of ventilation, light, and a clear view outside.

2. Double Casement Windows

Double casement windows consist of two panes that open outwards from the center, giving you more flexibility in ventilation and a symmetrical look. They work well in larger spaces where more light and air circulation are desired.

3. Triple Casement Windows

For even more light and ventilation, triple casement windows feature three panes. The central pane is usually fixed, while the two side panes open outwards. These are great for making a statement and enhancing the architectural interest of your home.

Push-Out vs. Crank Casement Windows

In addition to choosing the number of panes, consider how you want your windows to open. Push-out casement windows open with a gentle push, offering a simpler, more traditional operation. Crank casement windows, on the other hand, use a handle to open and close, which can be easier for hard-to-reach areas, like over the kitchen sink.

Each type of casement window has its perks, so think about what matters most to you: ease of use, aesthetics, or ventilation. No matter your choice, casement windows add charm and functionality to any home.

Benefits of Casement Windows

Casement windows are a great choice for any home, and they offer a number of benefits that other types of windows don’t, including:

• Ease of Use: Casement windows are very easy to open even for children or the elderly, and can be the perfect solution to a window located in a hard-to-reach spot like above a sink.
• Easy maintenance and cleaning: Being easier to open and close makes casement windows easier to clean. The screens on casement windows are placed on the inside of the window, protecting them from the elements, which also makes for easy cleaning and maintenance.
• Great ventilation: Because casement windows open outward, they give the most ventilation of any window type. When open, standard casements are open 100% to the outside.
• Good energy efficiency: When closed, casements offer second-to-none energy efficiency. Because it has a movable sash, weather-stripping fits snugly and securely. They keep your home cool in the summer and warm in the winter
• Available brand quality: There are many high-quality brands in the casement window business, giving us homeowners a ton of choice.
• Wide availability and customization: Once again because of their popularity and wide availability, you can get a casement window custom-made to fit any pretty much size or shape of window opening. They are also available in a variety of styles, colors, and finishes to match your home’s décor easily.
• Good pricepoint: With a wide selection and brand competition also comes a good price point. Casement windows are very reasonably priced compared to other less-common window types.

What Direction Should Your Casement Windows Open?

Most of the time, you’ll be able to choose the direction your window is opening, unless you’re buying it pre-made.

So the question naturally then becomes, which direction should you choose?

Choosing the direction your casement windows open isn’t just about personal preference; it’s about functionality and flow. Here’s the scoop on making that choice:

• Think about the wind: The direction the breeze usually comes from can help you decide. You’ll want your windows to open towards the direction of the wind to catch and direct fresh air into your home.
• Consider obstacles: Look around for any trees, walls, or neighboring buildings that might block the window’s path. You want to ensure your windows open freely without hitting anything.
• Room layout matters: The arrangement of your furniture and the room’s layout can influence your decision. You wouldn’t want a window to open right where someone might be sitting or blocking an often-used path.
• Safety first: For windows on the upper floors, consider which way they should open to ensure safety and ease of escape in an emergency.

In short, think about what works best for your space and needs. Sometimes, it might even be a mix, with some windows opening to the left and others to the right, depending on each room’s specifics.

Installation and Repair of Casement Windows

Understanding the ins and outs of installing and repairing casement windows is key, not just for after they’re in your home, but as part of deciding which windows to buy. Here’s why it matters:

Installing Casement Windows

Getting your casement windows installed right from the get-go can save you a lot of headaches down the line. Proper installation ensures your windows function flawlessly, are energy-efficient, and last longer. Here’s a simplified overview:

1. Measure accurately to ensure the window fits perfectly in the opening.
2. Prepare the opening, making sure it’s the right size and free of damage.
3. Set the window frame securely in place, checking for level and plumb.
4. Seal with weatherstripping to block drafts and moisture.
5. Install the sash and hardware, following with a functionality check.

While DIY enthusiasts might be tempted to tackle the installation themselves, it’s often best left to professionals. They’ll make sure your windows are installed correctly, ensuring you get all the benefits without the future fuss.

Casement Window Repairs

Even the best windows might need a little TLC over time. Here’s the scoop on common repairs:

• Broken or foggy glass can be replaced to restore clarity and efficiency.
• Worn weatherstripping might need updating to keep drafts out.
• Sticky or malfunctioning cranks can often be fixed with cleaning or replacement parts.
• Leaks or drafts require sealing or adjustments to ensure your home stays cozy.

Knowing how to handle these repairs—or when to call in a pro—can extend the life of your windows and maintain their performance. It’s all about protecting your investment and ensuring your windows keep your home comfortable and secure for years to come.

Why Care about Casement Window Repair and Instillation Now?

Understanding installation and repair before you buy gives you a clearer picture of the total cost of ownership. It’s not just about the purchase price; it’s about assessing potential future expenses and the hassle factor.

Choosing windows that are known for durability and ease of maintenance can save you money and time in the long run. Plus, knowing what’s involved in the installation can help you make informed decisions about the right windows for your home and budget.

Casement Window Costs

The cost of a casement window will vary depending on the size, style, and materials used. In general, casement windows are more expensive than other types of windows, such as double-hung windows or sliding windows. However, they can also be more energy-efficient, which can save you money in the long run.

The average cost of a casement window is between $200 and $500 per window. However, you can expect to pay more for larger windows or windows made with high-quality materials.

Here are some factors that can affect the cost of a casement window:

• Size: The larger the window, the more it will cost.
• Style: Windows with more features, such as grilles or specialty glass, will cost more than basic windows.
• Materials: Windows made with high-quality materials, such as wood or aluminum, will cost more than windows made with vinyl or fiberglass.
• Installation: The cost of installation will vary depending on the type of window and the complexity of the installation.

If you are considering installing casement windows in your home, it is important to get multiple quotes from different contractors so that you can compare prices and find the best deal.

You can also save money on casement windows by doing some of the installation work yourself. However, it is important to make sure that you have the proper skills and tools before attempting to install a window yourself.

Other Window Styles to Consider

If you’re not sure if casement windows are the best option for your space, loads of other windows are available to choose from including single-hung and double-hung windows, picture windows, bay windows, and many, many more. Click here for a full list of window types.

Perennials

Dig up, dig in and divide. Roll up your sleeves and think bright thoughts as you plant bulbs for spring flowering. Be sure to give any newcomers a good share of water. Starting now and over the next couple of months, once soil has cooled to less than 60 degrees, plant the bulbs of spring bloomers such as crocuses, anemones, daffodils, hyacinths and tulips in well-drained soil, about three times deeper than the diameter of the bulbs.

• For an abundant tulip display, place 10 to 20 bulbs in a hole one foot in diameter; plant so that the bulbs aren’t touching.
• Irises and other early-blooming perennials still can be divided this month. Give them plenty of water after replanting.
• Dig up and divide or transplant crowded perennials.
• For swatches of fall color, plant mums, winter pansies, and flowering kale and cabbage.
• Take cuttings from geraniums, 2 to 4 inches, for indoor winter flowering.
• Plant perennials from seed by scattering them in an open bed or in individual rows. In the spring, the seedlings can be moved to more permanent locations.

Trees and Shrubs

Fall is an ideal time to shop for and plant new trees and shrubs. They’ll have a chance to establish roots over the winter, and at nurseries you’ll see the beginnings of true fall colors.

• In many areas, this is the best month for planting evergreen trees and heathers.
• Choose trees and shrubs with edible berries to provide meals for wildlife, or select for bright splashes of fall foliage.
• Reduce watering for established shrubs and trees so they can harden off in preparation for winter.
• Watch fruit trees for signs of mildew.
• Take cuttings from roses.

Lawn Care

With just a little bit of effort, you can overhaul your lawn’s health this month to help it thrive in the fall, winter and spring.

• If September is rainy, begin raking leaves as they fall and grass clippings as you mow; otherwise they’ll form mucky hide-outs for pests.
• Sod or seed new lawn areas.
• Overseed bare patches in an established lawn. Your grass will be more lush, and moss and weeds won’t have as much room to take over.
• If your lawn doesn’t need thatching, over the next couple of months you can apply a fall or winter fertilizer to encourage nice green grass and healthy root development.
• If needed, thatch now, followed by fertilizing and overseeding.

Pest Control

Our old slug friends are starting to lay new eggs right about now. Nip ’em in the bud.

Check the edges of your lawn and underneath sticks and stones for signs of eggs. They come in nearly translucent clusters of 50 or so, with each egg about the size of a dried pea.

Maintenance

After completing these simple garden tasks, you’ll still have time to enjoy your weekend.

• Catch weeds now, before they flower. If their seeds have a chance to spread, it means more time on your hands and knees in the future.
• Remove spent annuals and put their husks in the compost, or use them as mulch for overwintering plants.

Harvesting

Overripening is a September hazard, so check fruits and vegetables regularly. Be sure to harvest them if they look, feel and/or taste ripe and ready.

• Pick tomatoes if the weather is cooling down, and let them finish ripening indoors.
• You can now harvest carrots, corn and potatoes. The root vegetables can be harvested for months to come, but corn isn’t as forgiving of cold.
• Raid those fruit trees: Pick pears, plums and apples now.

Houseplants

Bring houseplants home for the holidays — indoors, that is — and start preparing holiday plants for best health and bright color in December.

• If you’ve been keeping houseplants outdoors, bring them inside before cool fall nights do any damage. Geraniums and other tender plants also may be moved indoors now.
• Be sure to place houseplants away from open drafts as the weather cools. And do tender plants a favor: Don’t expose them to direct sunlight — especially through frosted glass, which serves as a magnifier.
• Starting about midmonth, the time is ripe for “seasoning” poinsettias and Thanksgiving and Christmas cactuses. Give them a daily dose of 10 hours of bright daylight or four hours of direct sun, plus 14 hours of night darkness. Cactuses need a cool environment of 50 to 60 degrees, while poinsettias prefer a warmer 65 to 72 degrees.

Almost October? Just Want to Get Ready for Fall?

Don’t worry, we’ve got a fresh checklist for you of October gardening tasks too, jump over to our October Gardening Checklist now!

If you’re going to try to DIY the repair, we want to make sure you have complete and accurate information, easily available in one place (right here) to avoid damage and costly mistakes.

In this post, we’re going to explain how to fix a leaky faucet, specifically leaks in a two-handle compression faucet.

In addition to the information in this post, you can also grab a diagram and checklist of steps to repair your leaky two-handle compression faucet, right here:

Click the image to download a handy one-page Compression Faucet Repair Checklist complete with a compression faucet diagram to help you with the repair.

What is a Compression Faucet and Why Would it Leak?

There are two basic types of faucets out there: those with washers and those without. Compression faucets are the basic washer-type faucets that have been around since indoor plumbing became available.

A compression faucet is usually found in laundry room wash basins, but can also be found in bathrooms and kitchens, especially if they are older fixtures or if you live outside of North America.

Compression faucets, which have two separate handles for hot and cold water, are the least expensive type of faucets on the market, but they are also most likely to leak and require maintenance.

In a compression faucet, a washer or seal opens and closes against the valve seat at the base of the stem to open or restrict water flow through the faucet body when you turn each handle. This sounds very technical, but it all boils down to the fact that a worn or damaged washer or seal inside the handle will cause water to leak when the taps are shut off.

Do You Have a Compression Faucet or a Cartridge Faucet?

Unfortunately, a double-handle cartridge faucet will look almost identical to a compression washer faucet and so having two taps isn’t always the way to know if that’s what you have.

The best way to tell the difference is actually by how the handles feel when you use them.

Compression faucets close the water flow by tightening down (compressing) a washer. Cartridge faucets, on the other hand, have a smooth, consistent action. A cartridge faucet turns off without added pressure being required as with a compression faucet.

If you’re really unsure, you can go ahead and ask a plumber, or if you’re adventurous, you can continue to start the repair and see if the insides look like they do in the compression faucet diagram above, or in the diagram on our leaking cartridge faucet repair guide.

Tools Needed to Fix a Leaking Compression Faucet

• Pipe wrench or channel-lock pliers
• Phillips head screwdriver

Materials Needed to Fix a Leaking Compression Faucet

• A few large rags, or an old towel
• Silicone plumber’s grease
• Replacement parts (when purchasing replacement parts, it’s best to take the original parts with you to the hardware store to make sure your new part is a perfect match)

How to Fix Your Leaky Faucet

Parts of a Compression Faucet: Compression Faucet Diagram

Here’s a diagram that outlines the many parts of a compression faucet, which you’ll want to keep handy when taking yours apart and putting it back together. You can grab a PDF version of this diagram along with a step-by-step checklist to help you repair your leaky compression faucet here.

In addition to keeping this diagram handy, a good practice is to have a towel next to the sink when you are disassembling the faucet. Lay each part on the towel as you remove it, placing it in order so that when it’s time to reassemble the faucet you can work backward and know the order with which to put each piece back.

The First Step in Repairing a Leaky Faucet: Turn Off the Water!

No matter what type of plumbing repair you’re performing, or what type of leak you’re fixing, the first step is always to begin by turning off the water. When fixing a sink faucet, you may be able to do so at the shut-off valves under the sink, or, if you have no valve under your sink, at your home’s main shut-off valve, which is most likely in your basement near the front of the house.

After you turn off the water supply, turn on the faucet to “bleed the pipes” of water and you’re ready to begin your repair in earnest.

Fixing Handle Leaks

If your compression faucet is leaking from the handle, you’ll first want to try tightening or replacing the packing nut. If this doesn’t work, you’ll need to replace the packing, which will be a washer, O-ring, or in some cases twine, that is wound around the compression stem.

Again, keep the diagram above handy, and when disassembling parts lay them out onto a towel in the order that you remove them so that you know what order to reassemble pieces in. Never forget to turn the water supply off before attempting any repairs, and to open both the hot and cold water taps to allow the water to drain out of the faucet.

Fixing Spout Leaks

Repairing a leaky compression faucet most often involves replacing a washer. If you have water leaking from the spout of your compression faucet you’ll need to replace a washer or a corroded valve seat.

The hardest part about changing a washer in a leaking compression faucet is finding the right replacement washer. If you don’t have an extra washer, take the old one with you to the hardware store to make sure you can find a match. Of course, an experienced plumber will have several common washers on hand, and will how to source a replacement if it’s not one plumbers normally keep in stock; so if you find yourself frustrated in the plumbing aisle, remember that you can always call a plumber to help.

To fix a broken washer in a compression faucet, you must remove the handle itself and replace the washer or seal. 

If you need a quick visual, here’s a quick video by Dummies.com showing how to replace a washer in your faucet handle: https://youtu.be/15A0V7lj_Lo

As you’ll be reminded of in the video, the first step in replacing a washer is to turn off the shut-off valve for the fixture and open both the hot and cold faucets to allow any residual water to escape.

Next, you’ll need to take off the faucet handle, loosen and remove the packing nut, remove the stem, and replace the worn part with another one. This is also an opportunity to lubricate the threads of the stem with silicone grease before reassembling the handle and turning the fixture valve back on.

If the Repair Isn’t Going as Expected

If you have any doubts about any step in the faucet repair you’re attempting, even with our free step-by-step checklist and diagram for compression faucets, it’s probably best to stop and call a professional plumber.

There could be nothing worse than a small leak turning into significant water damage that requires significant repairs.

One last time, grab a free diagram and checklist of the steps to repair a leaking two-handle compression faucet here.

Glazing Compounds: Oil-based and Latex-based

Glazing compounds have been the go-to choice for decades. There are two main types: oil-based and latex-based.

Oil-based Compounds

Our Choice for Oil Based Glazing Compound

Dap 33 Glazing Compound, 1/2-Pint, White

$10.24

DAP ‘33’ Glazing is a ready-to-use oil-based glazing compound that can be used on wood or metal sashes for an airtight, watertight seal that resists sagging, shrinking, chalking, and cracking.

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Oil-based compounds are applied with a glazing knife. They come with a lengthy working time and take longer to dry and stabilize but are durable and easy to apply.

Once fully dried, which may take several weeks, they require painting over with an oil-based paint or primer.

Ideal for both wood and metal sashes, oil-based glaze compounds create an airtight, watertight seal and are resistant to sagging, shrinking, chalking, and cracking.

Clean-up requires mineral spirits as with any oil-based product.

Latex-based Compounds

Our Choice for Latex Based Glazing Compound

DAP Synthetic Polymer Latex Window Glazing Cartridge, 10.1 oz, White

$7.87

DAP Latex Window Glazing can be used to glaze glass in wood or metal window frames. It resists sagging, cracking, shrinking, and chalking, and best of all cleans up with water since it's latex-based.

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Latex-based compounds, on the other hand, can be left unpainted or painted with either latex or oil-based paints once fully dry.

Drying takes about three days for latex paint and seven for oil-based paint.

Suitable for glazing glass in wood or metal frames, they ensure a smooth application.

Latex glazing compounds adhere well to both glass and sash, resist sagging, cracking, shrinking, and chalking, and can be cleaned up with water, which is a huge convenience over oil-based compounds.

Glazing Tape: A Convenient Alternative

Glazing tape offers a different approach.

It’s a pre-formed, sticky tape that’s easy to apply, making it a time-saver for many DIY enthusiasts.

Glazing tape is especially useful for unusual shapes or where a clean, straight line is needed. It adheres strongly to glass and frame, providing a good seal against weather elements. It’s also available in various thicknesses and widths to suit different window types.

T.R.U. Double Coated Window Glazing Tape

$14.98

Available in several widths and roll-lengths, this two-sided window glazing tape works well for double-pane windows. Its adhesive quality provides a strong, airtight, and watertight seal.

Window glazing tape is easy to apply, making it a time-saver and an excellent choice for modern window frames made of materials like vinyl or metal.

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04/15/2024 12:07 am GMT

While it might not have the traditional adhesion of glazing compounds, glazing tape is a practical, efficient choice for many projects, particularly those requiring a quick turnaround or less mess. But it’s not ALWAYS the better choice, so let’s talk about when you may want to choose putty over tape.

Choosing Between Glazing Tape and Putty

1. Window’s Age:
   • Older Windows: Traditional glazing putty is often the choice for older windows, particularly because it adheres well to the wood frames commonly found in these structures. It’s in line with the original construction methods used for these windows.
   • Newer Windows: For modern, especially double-pane windows, glazing tape is more suitable. Its adhesive quality is compatible with the advanced design of these windows, ensuring a better seal necessary for energy efficiency.
2. Frame Material:
   • Wood Frames: Putty is typically used with wood frames. It’s effective in accommodating the natural expansion and contraction of wood with temperature changes. You can learn more about fixing wood-frame window glass with putty here.
   • Metal or Vinyl Frames: Glazing tape is often a better fit for metal or vinyl frames due to its strong adhesive properties. It forms a tight seal essential for the insulation properties of these windows.
3. Maintenance and Durability:
   • Putty: Requires more maintenance over time. It may need to be reapplied or touched up after several years, especially in harsh weather conditions.
   • Tape: Offers a more durable, low-maintenance solution. Once applied, it doesn’t require much upkeep, making it a practical choice for those seeking a long-lasting solution without frequent maintenance.
4. Ease of Application:
   • Skill Level for Putty: Applying putty can be more labor-intensive and requires a certain level of skill, especially to ensure a proper seal and adherence to the frame.
   • Ease with Tape: Glazing tape is straightforward to apply, making it a convenient choice for DIY projects, especially for those less experienced in window glazing.

The choice between glazing tape and putty depends more on the age and material of the window, the desired level of maintenance, and the ease of application. Each option has its own set of advantages in different scenarios, and the right choice will align with the specific needs of your window glazing project.

Conclusion

Whether you opt for a traditional glazing compound or the more modern glazing tape, both options have their unique benefits.

Your choice will depend on factors like the project’s specifics, the desired aesthetic, and your level of DIY experience. Remember, the key to a successful glazing job is in the preparation and application, so take your time to choose the right material for your needs.

You’ll also discover the right installation, handle types, and spout choices for your needs. Plus, we answer common questions about compatibility, finishes, and more.

Read on! We’re here to help you make an educated decision.

Types of Bathroom Faucets: Installing Confidence

That’s no typo, we meant installing! The most important choice you will make to is what sort of installation you’ll need in your bathroom. Let’s get your feet wet by introducing the various styles of faucets:

• Single-hole Faucets: Single-hole faucets are relatively modern and have many advantages. They are perfect for small sinks and simple to install! Even if your sink is not small and you want the look of a single-hole faucet, but have more than one drilling space, you can get a deck plate to cover the extra holes.
• Centerset Faucets: Terrific space-savers when you want handles but need to be efficient. These include single- and two-handle designs, and are ideal for pre-drilled or pre-existing basins.
• Mini-spread Faucets: Much like the centerset in size, but the handles are not attached to a base. This gives the look and feel of a widespread model in a tight space.
• Widespread Faucets: Widespread faucets are the most common faucet choice. The handles on this installation are usually 8 inches apart, though some can extend up to 16 inches apart. If you’re going for a spacious look, this is the way to go about doing it!
• Wall-Mounted Vessel Fillers: These are specifically designed for undermount, vessel and wall hung sinks. They are mounted on the wall and extend over the center of the sink. Antique sinks will pair with these beautifully!

Express Yourself: Selecting Faucet Handles and Spouts

Now is when you can start to really express yourself!

Here is the Handle

Handles come in a variety of different types – round, lever and cross are the standards, with even further variations upon these. In addition, there are touchless electronic handles that assist in conserving water by turning off automatically after you are finished using them; these controls are usually located under the sink.

If you prefer a more minimalistic look, you might want to consider a single-handle option, but two-handle faucets are much more user-friendly in that they allow you to customize the temperature of the water you use. You only have a single hole drilled into your sink you say? That’s no problem! Many manufacturers offer single-hole, double-handled faucets. You shouldn’t have to settle, and designers respect this.

And Here is the Spout

There are two types of spouts, aerated and nonaerated. Aerated spouts use a screen and resistor in combination with air to create limited water flow in addition to better overall pressure. Nonaerated spouts do not have that screen, and therefore water can flow more quickly and freely.

Constructive Debate: Understanding Faucet Valves

There are four different valve types used in the construction of faucets today:

• Ball: These were the first type of washerless faucets. These valves use a slotted, rotating metal or plastic ball for flow regulation, and have the unfortunate tendency to leak more than other faucet types. They are durable and reliable, but can be used with single-handle faucets only.
• Cartridge: Easy to repair, the cartridge valve uses rubber o-rings inside a cylindrical cartridge to control water flow. They are as long-wearing as the ball valve, but can be used in single or two-handle faucets.
• Ceramic Disk: While the most expensive option by far, this method uses two fire-hardened ceramic disks – the upper moves and the lower is fixed – that move against one another to sheer the flow of water within a cylindrical body. To offset the cost, they are maintenance-free and come with excellent warranties. They can also be used with single and two-handle faucets. These are very responsive and work well for people with arthritis.
• Compression: These feature rubber (or similar) washers to stop the flow of water, but they eventually wear out and can start to drip over time. On the flip side, washers are really cheap to replace and repairing a compression faucet is easy enough! Some newer types actually lift the washer vertically instead of grinding it against the valve seat, so it will generally last longer.

The Finish Line: Exploring Faucet Materials and Finishes

As mentioned earlier, the material most commonly used to create faucets these days are rust-resistant alloy and brass.

Recognizing that not everyone are interested in the look of brass in their bathrooms, countless finish options have been introduced over the last few decades. There has been a growing trend to offer baked-on, powder-coated enamels in wild colors, but the traditional finishes remain strong:

• Brass: While it may scratch, tarnish, or corrode, a clear-coat will go a long way to keeping your brass fixtures looking beautiful and easy to clean. Also offered in polished and antique sub-finishes.
• Chrome: Brushed, matte, or polished, chrome is both durable and economical as well as being gorgeous and highly versatile for many bathroom decors. Unlike brass, chrome does not need a clear coat protection to be easily maintained.
• Gold: Leaning towards the expensive side, gold will not tarnish, but as it’s a softer material it is not as durable as some of the cheaper alternatives.
• Nickel: This easy-to-clean finish is not only durable but stylish, offered most often in satin and brushed.
• Stainless Steel: As the name implies, one of the largest draws for stainless steel is its ability to keep water spots from sticking around. On the other hand, they do tend to need special cleaning due to repeated smudging by hands. One of the more moderately priced options.

One other thing to keep in mind is that many manufacturers offer handle accent color finishes in addition to the standard hardware finish, which is not only a perfect way to draw attention to their styling but also allows a greater degree of personalization.

Why There Are Various Types of Bathroom Faucets: A Historical Perspective

Plumbing systems have been around for a very long time – nearly four thousand years! Such luxuries weren’t always publicly available; some of the earliest known examples of plumbing were found in the Minoan Palace of Knossos in Crete (the largest island of Greece). Terracotta was used to create piping while the faucets themselves were made from gold, marble, and silver. By the time Romans were using plumbing in their public bathhouses (or thermae), lead was the primary material for pipes; and alloy brass is the most commonly used in modern day.

The overall design of bathroom faucets remained relatively untouched until 1937, when a young college student by the name of Al Moen decided to invent the single-handle faucet after scalding himself. The two-handled option wasn’t going to cut it anymore! He wanted people to have the ability to customize their water temperatures. After nearly ten years of trial and error, Moen developed his first truly marketable design, selling it to a local plumbing supply company in San Francisco.

Breakthroughs in plumbing technology have continued to emerge in the last century. Today’s faucets can offer so many options that a homeowner looking to purchase one can be overwhelmed when choosing what is right for their home. It’s very important to keep a few factors in mind beyond just style when purchasing – ease of care, durability and safe, convenient use.

Think about the faucet you are currently using, and then consider what about it causes you any discomfort: is the spout an improper length, are handles hard to grasp or just plain uncomfortable, or perhaps the finish is just not staying as clean as you would like?

The right bathroom faucet blends style with functionality, fitting your space and needs. From modern single-holes to classic widespread designs, each type offers unique benefits. Consider materials, handle types, and valve mechanisms to find your match. Now, equipped with this info, you’re ready to choose confidently. Got more questions? Check out the FAQs below for additional insights.

Bathroom Faucet FAQs: Compatibility, Cleaning, and More

Next Steps: Your Complete Bathroom Upgrade

You’re on your way to a stylish and functional bathroom with the perfect faucet. But why stop there? Complete your bathroom transformation with these comprehensive guides:

1. Shower Base and Walls: Elevate your shower experience. Discover the best options for your space in our Shower Wall and Base Buying Guide.
2. Shower Heads, Valves, and Drains: Fine-tune your shower’s functionality and style. Explore various designs and features in our Shower Heads, Valves, and Drains Buyer’s Guide.
3. Toilet Buyer’s Guide: A critical piece of any bathroom. Find the right fit, style, and features for your home in our Toilet Buyer’s Guide.
4. Bathroom Sink Buyer’s Guide: (Link coming soon) Complement your new faucet with the perfect sink. Stay tuned for our detailed guide to choosing the right bathroom sink.
5. Bathtub Buyer’s Guide: (Link coming soon) Looking for relaxation and style? Our upcoming guide will help you find the ideal bathtub for your bathroom oasis.

Each guide is packed with practical advice to help you make informed decisions, ensuring your bathroom is not only beautiful but also perfectly suited to your needs.