Male-Mode.com

2013 - Time to Get Smart (?)

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 00:30:00 +0000

While other bloggers are no doubt admirably committing to their New Year's resolutions by publishing posts themed around them, I sit back and ~~wait for them all to fail miserably~~ lazily and concoct hypothetical style-related resolutions.

Say, for example, 2013 was the year in which I resolved to sharpen up my sartorial act, swap 'gear' for 'garments', ditch leather-sleeve bombers for classic overcoats, Tims for brogues or monk-straps, and a wardrobe chiefly composed of short- and long-sleeve tees for more separates that oh-so-very subtly say, rather than scream, elegance.

And, for the hell of it, let's say I really lose the fucking plot and end up experimenting with accessories despite the fact that me + them is a match more forged in the pits of hell, rather than made in heaven.

Let's say 2013 is the year I grow up and this is what I resolve to wear...

^ 1. Crombie Donegal overcoat from Crombie; 2. John Lobb leather monk-strap shoes from Mr Porter; 3. Corgie mid-calf cashmere socks from Barneys; 4. Rick Owens night top from Farfetch; 5. Tom Ford Grey Vetiver; 6. Maison Martin Margiela 11 men's ring from LN-CC; 7. Gucci slim-fit cotton blend trousers from Mr Porter
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No, I don't think it's going to happen this year either. Give it another decade or so and we'll see if it's still all a bit fat chance...
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This post was partly sponsored by Crombie

Top Moments in Menswear 2012 - Part 2

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Tue, 01 Jan 2013 22:45:00 +0000

Major moments continued...

Just when did a casual run to the corner shop begin to resemble a bout of battleground training?

2012 saw camo move from the context of military surplus to some of menswear’s most covetable wardrobes, being plastered over everything from men’s luxury swimwear to iPad cases.

As with so many seemingly revolutionary turnings of fashion’s tides, many of us probably thought the appropriation of camo entirely original. It’s not really the case, however, with the print apparently having made appearances as far back as the early 20th century in couture collections according to this report from camo devotees Orlebar Brown.

In recent memory, there was of the course the 90s and early noughties – a time we couldn’t quite conceal our collective wood for woodland camo in the form of cargo shorts and pants. This easily digested NY Times article from Ruth La Ferla points out how fashion looked to the streets and once again took to the trenches with John Galliano capitalizing on the trend during his tenure at Dior.

But just what accounted for the most recent revival? Although it’s been difficult to pinpoint the exact source (and let’s be honest, is there ever really one definitive source in these cases?), our current penchant for camo has probably been brewing since 2010 when military styles re-emerged on womenswear runways.

Nevertheless, it’s not all that common for womenswear and menswear trends to meet and merge as camo has done in the past year. In this vein, two words: Nick Wooster. The tats-and-monkstraps fashion-week fixture has pretty much single-handedly ushered in a new craving for camo, through his much-documented personal style or numerous design collaborations.

GQ claims it’s here to stay, for another year at least.

At long last giving London menswear the platform it deserves, the British Fashion Council launched London Collections: MEN in June. Encompassing an array of British menswear aesthetics from Savile Row tailoring to contemporary sportswear, LCM emphasises the equal importance of both the creative and commercial imperatives of menswear design.

Its third season (AW13) gets underway January 7th 2013, with the most extensive roster yet.
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While I'm sure there are scores more moments worth mentioning, these five have been the most prominent for me personally, whether a trend, a momentous move for the fostering of new talent or someone with style for days.

What stood out for you?

P.S. Happy New Year y'all!
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Images from TSB Men, Southdacola and LCM

Top Moments in Menswear 2012 - Part 1

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Sun, 30 Dec 2012 17:19:00 +0000

As 2013 approaches, I thought it high time to reflect back on a year that's been nothing short of momentous for menswear. If your post-NYE hangover sees you enduring amnesia, consider this a resource of sorts for what went down in 2012.

A Belgian designer lauded for his abstract approach, fondness for geometric shapes, and uncompromising cuts, Raf Simons heralded the arrival of a new brand of minimalism on joining Jil Sander in 2005. His outstanding Autumn Winter 2012 collections were to be his last for fashion’s foremost name in refined simplicity, with his women’s show receiving tears and a standing ovation – not bad for an industry known for its emotional intransigence.

The Autumn Winter 2012 men’s offering might have served as an indication of shifts to come. In previous seasons, Simons never failed to lend Jil Sander a freshness that the brand hadn’t exhibited before, but the shapes and the concepts that informed them were more often than not drawn within the confines of the Jil Sander aesthetic.

This men's collection marked a departure – a darker, engulfing descent into a narrative far removed from the ascetic imperviousness of previous collections. Here, Simons pitched signifiers of serial killers and sex against icons of childlike innocence. He revelled in dominating cocoon shapes and the sumptuousness of leather, latex and vinyl, while at the same time attempting to temper the excess with strict suiting and playschool prints.

The show’s drama, both textual and extra-textual, sees it make the list.

Crispy gentlemen, take note. 2012 saw the meteoric rise of menswear Tumblr, Fuck Yeah Menswear, with founders Lawrence Schlossman and Kevin Burrows continuing to shoot the shit on what it takes to be steezy, and scoring a sweet book deal in the process.

When it comes to a healthy dose of taking the piss out of fashion, I’m all for it – I mean, yes, it’s a multi-billion dollar industry but a lot of its foundations are built on BS, impossible ideals and questionable ethics. This particular brand of satire, however, never sat well with me, mostly for its frat-boy affectations.

Burrows and Schlossman may have started out poking fun at menswear’s all-too-serious esotericism, but when you’re getting cosy with its poster boy (Michael Williams of A Continuous Lean) at your book launch, the critical distance seems considerably shortened.

Another year, another line-up of street-style stand-outs. 2012 saw the emergence of Nathaniel Matthews, the much-documented muse of The Sartorialist's Scott Schuman. He makes the list not for outré experimentation, but for a mastery of classic casuals that runs the gamut from WWII-era military to skins.

More notable moments in menswear to come...
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Images from The Sartorialist, Coach and Its Chris Nick

Inkling x Merry Christmas

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Sun, 23 Dec 2012 14:39:00 +0000

Considering this Christmas is the first I've spent abroad, this year's festive season will likely be less turkey-scoffing, vegetating and bad-Christmas-film-consuming and more leisurely-Christmas-morning-brunching, walks in Central Park and plenty of mulled wine 'til mullered.

Despite being far from many friends and family, staying put in NYC for Christmas has let me off the hook with the usual present purchasing for fear off bankrupting myself on shipping costs. A definite plus.

The rest of you, however, should either be running the final shopping lap or already hopelessly lost amid a sea of garish wrapping paper, coated thread and frustratingly creased sellotape. If not, here are your marching orders because I'm not sure if you've noticed but you've not got longer than 24 hours to save your hide.

It's a little late for online shopping but if it's inspiration you're after, then a project I've had the pleasure of being involved with may be just the thing to get you motivated for last minute Christmas-shopping madness.

Inkling is a London-based online gift-suggestion tool, which saves the inevitable brain-racking and possible breakdown that goes with contemplating Christmas presents. I was brought on board to flesh out their men's style and lifestyle offering (a selection of which can be seen above), which basically meant picking out a horde of things I'd like to see waiting for the ravishing under the tree this year.

Whether you're prepared or panicking, I wish you all a very merry Christmas and a bountiful New Year. Stay safe, satiated and mildly sozzled.

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Browse Inkling

Season's Greetings: Matthew Zorpas

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Wed, 19 Dec 2012 01:27:00 +0000

An inspiration when I first discovered his singular style last year, and still an enduring inspiration today, Matthew Zorpas is next up to share his plans for the now imminent festive season. PR powerhouse, fashion lecturer, creative consultant and blogger, Zorpas's seemingly tireless enthusiasm and keen eye for fashion's fascinating as opposed to faddish has earned him legions of fans, and I'm proud to call myself one of them.

Male-Mode: What are your plans for Christmas and the holiday season?

I am traveling to Brazil this holiday season

Spending Christmas and New Years in Rio!

What's been the highlight of your year so far?

Launching The Gentleman Blogger was definitely the highlight for this year.

The support that I received was truly unexpected and surprising.

If you could give one gift this year, what would it be?

Unlimited holiday tickets

And if you could receive just one gift this year, what would that be?

One Walter Van Beirendonck suit.
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Read The Gentleman Blogger

Q+A: Highland US

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Sun, 16 Dec 2012 18:58:00 +0000

Since gentrification's taken a firm hold of Williamsburg, artists, designers, musicians have been migrating further into Brooklyn, with Bushwick now fast following suit. With ample space at more affordable prices, convenient connections to Manhattan and enough Stumptown coffee to fuel full-time jobs and moonlight freelancing, it's hardly difficult to see the attraction. Having come across Bushwick-based brand Highland during a spate of press days, I was eager to learn more about the interestingly anomalous brand. Brooklynite yet not pandering to the ubiquitous all-black Williamsburg uniform, nor mimicking the Americana heritage formula, Highland is definitely something all of its own.

I caught up with the team to talk Joseph Beuys, Utah and Roberta's pizza...

Male-Mode: What is Highland? Who does the team consist of?

Highland: Marked by function and utility, Highland is a sportswear collection designed for today’s wanderer and dreamer – those people with a thirst for raw and meaningful experiences. Originally formed in Venice, CA in 2009, the trio that makes up the creative force behind Highland consists of lead designer Lizzie Owens, Mike Franks and Cramer Tolboe.

What motivated you to found Highland?

Being raised in Utah, we all shared a love for the outdoors and the freedom that comes from exploration and experiences in the wilderness. By the summer of 2009, having all worked in various parts of the fashion industry both in LA and NY, we longed to reconnect with our roots. Through this we realised there was a real absence of grown-up, sophisticated sportswear in the contemporary menswear market. We knew we had a fresh cool take on what would feel familiar to a lot of guys, a new perspective to add and a past to legitimise it.

What inspired your current Fall Winter collection?

For our FW12 collection, we were really inspired by an art installation titled "I like America and American Likes Me". It featured the artist, Joseph Beuys, wrapped in felt and confined in a room with a live coyote for several days. We experimented with the idea of vulnerability in nature and the accepted notion of feeling protected through fabric ‘barriers’.

As self-proclaimed creators of ‘utility menswear’, you’re surely familiar with the flippancy with which this term is bandied about, especially with the recent rise in work-wear – both in American and global markets. What does ‘utility menswear’ mean to you?

When trying to define what utility menswear means to us, early Patagonia or The North Face immediately comes to mind. Those brands represented an early version of work wear meets change/evolution/technology, and we’d like to build upon that by merging technical advances to make "work-wear" even more functional, while adding a fashion forward design.

Growing up in Utah during the 80’s and 90’s, those brands truly captured what it was like living in the mountains around that time. Our brand's aspirational ideal is freedom. Specifically, the freedom of the American West, and we strive to create clothing that transmits that through the function of the style and the fabrication that serves a purpose.

We think like that when developing new styles or finding fabric; the way our details work together to create a piece you didn't know you couldn't live without.

Can you describe your experience as designers based in Bushwick? Is it, in your opinion, the burgeoning creative hub it’s often reputed to be?

Our move to Brooklyn came out of the shared sentiment that, to create clothes that inspired others, we first needed a space that inspired us. We always saw Bushwick as a melting pot for young creatives, and luckily, we found our dream space here. If you walk into coffee shops or overhear street conversations, it seems everyone is working on something expressive whether it be music, art or design of some sort. It’s also convenient and quick to get to our factories but removed from all the chaos which helps us incubate our creative vision. Oh and let's not forget Roberta's Pizza, that place really sealed the deal, if we had to name a NY landmark that embodies our brand, it would be Roberta's.

What’s next for the brand?

We will continue to develop our collections and refine the Highland aesthetic. We are constantly re-working styles we have done in the past and bringing new ideas to the table. Apart from that, we’ve started planning on a fashion week presentation that will hopefully take place in February. It will require a lot of work, but we feel like our brand is far too good to go unnoticed anymore.

Tailoring or sportswear?

Sportswear.

Brogues or boots?

Boots. Hiking boots.

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Learn more about Highland US | Find Highland stockists here

A.W.O.L. Update.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Tue, 11 Dec 2012 01:06:00 +0000

Currently experiencing some mild interference in the real world, so updates will likely be a little more infrequent 'til Christmas.

If you're bored, I'd be pleased to point you in the direction of some fashion, art, and photography pieces I've penned for the source on global nightlife, Société Perrier. There's bloggers, Kingsland Road clubs, lingerie and beards.

Season's Greetings: Richard Kilroy

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Wed, 05 Dec 2012 01:16:00 +0000

Not to sound like a codger recounting the past fondly, but I first came across exceptional fashion illustator Richard Kilroy's work back in the Summer of 2009. And although I considered him and his work reasonably well established even at that point, he's really made waves in the meantime.

Richard's been featured so many times here, he hardly needs introduction and to gush any more here about his work would only be to repeat what I've said countless times before (here, here, oh and here too). Without further ado, I thank him for his generous time in collaborating, and wish him a very merry Christmas...

Male-Mode: What are your plans for Christmas and the holiday season?

Richard Kilroy: To go home to Liverpool for a week with the family and eat until it hurts every day. Also, to catch up with friends and get pissed on less than £20 on a night out.

What is, for you, the spirit of Christmas?

Christmas is a time to indulge with those around you and enjoy it without guilt. I love catching up with everyone back home. I see Christmas as more of a celebration of the year than New Year's Eve itself. In fact, I fucking hate New Year's Eve.

What's been the highlight of your year so far?

Oh god, there have been a few! The big one has been putting my book together, which has meant meeting and getting to know so many prolific illustrators; the final line-up is looking incredible.

Receiving invaluable help and mentoring from Richard Gray (the illustrator, not the journalist) whom I have the upmost respect for.

This one is a little self-involved but seeing David Downton and Julie Verhoeven mention me in interviews as their illustrator to watch - pretty surreal moments for a fanboy who has followed them for years.

Going to my first menswear shows and seeing the palava that goes with it.

Tutoring drawing classes for the first time at the Royal College of Art and working with so many incredible talents. Also, many late night conversations on Facebook chat with Tara Dougans. We're both emerging illustrators and friends so we're always gossiping, bitching, and relating over everything that we're doing.

If you could give just one gift this year, what would it be?

Fuck knows.

And if you could receive just one gift this year, what would that be?

A two week holiday. Or calf implants. Or funding for the next issue of Decoy.
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Learn more about Richard Kilroy and his work | Learn more about premiere fashion illustration magazine Decoy | Follow Richard's ceaselessly inspirational Tumblr

Season's Greetings: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Tue, 27 Nov 2012 19:33:00 +0000

If there's been one topic I've found myself writing about a ridiculous number of times to mention this year, it's beards. No stranger to a hairy face, award-winning photographer Jonathan Daniel Pryce is partially responsible. Following the success of his recent 100 Beards project, this remarkable photographer, seasoned blogger and creative digital marketing mastermind barely needs introduction. Here's what he's thinking for the holidays...

Male-Mode: What are your plans for Christmas and the holiday season?

Jonathan Daniel Pryce: I've not been back to the City of Light since I moved from there to London so it'll be lovely to see friends, eat great food, and relax. Paris is such a beautiful city, so last Christmas I just cycled around the empty streets with friends. It was truly magical, so I'm probably going to do something similar this year.

What's been the highlight of your year so far?

There have been two highlights really. The first was winning my Scottish Fashion Award in June for Photographer of the Year; that really was a special moment for me. Following on from that, the success of my 100 Beards project where I photographed a new bearded man every day for 100 days.

The blog received so much attention from readers and press, which has led to me doing exhibitions in London and Austria, as well as publishing my first hardback photo-book. 2012 has really been quite an incredible year!

If you could give just one gift this year, what would it be?

Well, of course if I had enough copies it would have to be my 100 Beards, 100 Days book, one to everyone I know. But since I only did 250 in the first edition, it'd be a little tight.

And if you could receive just one gift this year, what would that be?

It would be to have all of my friends and family together in one room for one afternoon. There are too many seen, too little.
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Learn more about 100 Beards, 100 Days | Learn more about Jonathan and his work | Buy 100 Beards, 100 Days

Come back Summertime.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Mon, 26 Nov 2012 15:34:00 +0000

A lot of you will think it unforgivable blasphemy but I personally feel a lot of Lanvin looks better like this - broken apart into its constituent pieces, re-worked, and presented in a totally new light markedly different from its original runway show styling. Don't get me wrong, Lucas Ossendrijver is one of the greatest menswear designers of our time, but it's really only with the latest SS13 collection that the styling errors have begun to subside.

Anyway, this is really has much less to do with Lanvin show styling and much more to do with my wanting Summer back. Give it back, Winter, so I can wear all of this and stop shivering indoors.

1. Lanvin eelskin stripe sweatshirt from LN-CC; 2. Adidas Originals Adi Hi trainers from JD Sports; 3. Alexander McQueen slim-fit cotton gabardine trousers from Mr Porter; 4. Lanvin resine melusine cap from LN-CC; 5. Alexander Wang 'Wallie' gym bag from Farfetch

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*This post was partly sponsored by JD Sports

5 Things NOT to Buy a Man for Christmas: A Guide.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Sun, 25 Nov 2012 22:00:00 +0000

It's difficult not to turn completely Christmas-centric when surrounded by the countless lights, fake garlands, oversized trees, bedecked gardens, and rammed-full shops of the land of capitalist Crimbo. To - in a kind of roundabout, semi-negative way - aid you in your holiday shopping, I've thought long and hard about all those presents that prompt insincere exlamations ("AMAZING! THANK YOU! JUST WHAT I NEEDED! MARRY ME?!"), bring on genuine bafflement, and those that nudge one toward the brink of disappointed tears.

Here's what not to buy for a man this Christmas...

1. Socks

A Father's Day staple, it's fairly sad to hastily tear apart gift-wrapping on Christmas morning only to find a measly pair of socks beneath. I mean, it's not the most unbearable fate - most men do forget to regularly purchase socks and who doesn't welcome a new, hole-free pair? Still, it's the thoughtlessness, the immediate avowal of failing to bother to actually think about something vaguely personal that results in disappointment. Unless there's a weird sock-related in-joke or personal significance behind it all, or excepting they're crafted from wildly luxurious cotton, then give it a rest.

2. Generic Fragrance Sets

Sophisticatedly dubbed 'smellies' in my homeplace, fragrances are a safe-bet for Christmas gifting. That said, nothing says 'I really wasn't arsed thinking about anything vaguely original to buy you!' and/or 'You smell like s**t!' like a generic fragrance gift set from the local pharmacy.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for scents but if you're going fragrance-way, be sure to avoid the tacky, thrown-together-in-some-Coty-factory route. Who uses those crappy miniscule scented shower gels anyway? If you're dead set on fragrance, either do some preliminary research and simply buy them what they like (if they say they like 'something sweet!', they have little taste and you should really be questioning why you're friends/lovers/family(?), never mind why you're buying them gifts), or scope out something a little more unique that's not simply a money-making extension of a luxury fashion brand and/or endorsed by a soulless celebrity.

3. Books on topics he's never expressed even a remote interest in...

That means salacious crime exposés, BBQ recipe compendia, DIY guides, and anything For Dummies. He is no dummy, give him a voucher instead.

4. Overly elaborate tool-sets

At exactly what point is he going to use all 30 of those screwdrivers?

5. Clothing you think he'll look good in

Unless you've spent a decent amount of time roaming around the interior of your recipient's brain and/or stalking his shopping practices, then don't attempt a clothing gift. Firstly, he may v. well hate it, and secondly, you may think you have an idea of what fits him but really you're hopelessly beyond clueless.

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Hint: optimal is, of course, a charity donation. One of those things whereby you donate a sum, and gift him a card detailing immense generosity shown by you to both him and those in need. If he seems even a smidgeon underwhelmed by this, he's obviously not worth giving gifts to anyway.

Season's Greetings: Sean McGirr

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Fri, 23 Nov 2012 16:32:00 +0000

No stranger to the blog, London-based menswear designer, Burberry and Vogue Hommes Japan alumnus, and lover of all things kawaii, Sean McGirr bids you season's greetings...

Male-Mode: What are your plans for Christmas and the holiday season?

Sean McGirr: I'll be working on finishing my AW 2013/14 collection around Christmas but other that that, I'm going home to my family for one week! It'll be the longest I've been home for a few years actually - so christmas movies and some trashy clubs are awaiting!

What's been the highlight of your year so far?

It's been a really good year for my work so there are many highlights. I had fun working on a fashion film with Kevin Gaffney so we're preparing to work on another now.

If you could give just one gift this year, what would it be?

Hmnm I'd give a subscription to Arena Homme Plus because I really like the new issues. Also, flights to Japan inculding round-trip on the Shinkansen bullet-train and bursaries for students - I'd be super generous!

And if you could receive just one gift this year, what would that be?

Roxxxy the robot!
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See more from Sean on the blog here & here | Learn more about Sean McGirr

Frank and Oak launches United Tailors

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Mon, 19 Nov 2012 22:23:00 +0000

Thought brands with inter-season collections like cruise and pre-Fall were wont to reinvent the wheel on a regular basis? Try one that unveils a completely new collection each month. Established earlier this year, Montreal-based Frank & Oak is an online venture that offers men an entirely fresh selection of casual staples, suiting pieces, and accessories on a monthly basis.

While that might seem too much, too often on first thought, the brand focuses less on disparaging the old and hopelessly fawning over the new, and more on celebrating wearable, timeless core styles; it's more a case of slightly tweaking - think new colourways and prints, rather than an absolute overhaul every 30 or so days.

Just last week, the e-commerce brand toasted a more formal venture, with the launch of their micro-site United Tailors, a casual-cum-smart tailoring collection that's comprised of fitted chambray shirts, wool suits, suede belts and handcrafted silk accessories. To give the micro-site the welcome it truly deserves, Frank and Oak managed to source a space on New York's Crosby Street for a pop-up inspired by the city of Montreal.

Dubbed the Mile End Pop-up Shop, its not-even-a-week-long life span was most likely a case of sky-high Soho rents, but it did aid in building an air of exclusivity around a collection that's clearly marked as premium in comparison to the mainline.

^ Highlights from Frank and Oak's mainline

Having copped several a feel of the pieces on display, I can vouch (and this really is rare) that Frank and Oak are offering unbelievably good value for their pricepoints. A shirt or crewneck sweater will set you back just $45 but is most definitely built to last.
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Learn more about Frank and Oak | Shop United Tailors

Season's Greetings: Mark C O' Flaherty

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Sat, 17 Nov 2012 17:52:00 +0000

Depending on your disposition, this is either going to paint me the breaker of bad news or the bearer of good - it's just over a month 'til Christmas. Now, although I'm as anxiety-ridden as the next person who has a mile-long list of friends and family to buy for, I'm far from grinch-like. To prove it to you all, I've assembled a few of my favourite people to join in counting down the days in anticipation.
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Mark C. O' Flaherty is a man of words and pictures. A London-based photographer, writer, and founder of global style guide CIVILIAN, O' Flaherty oscillates between penning informed and analytical features on luxury fashion, gourmet restaurants and cutting-edge design, to photographing some of the most breathtaking architecture and interiors around the world. Above all, he does both with equal aplomb, somehow remaining modest all the while...

Male-Mode: What are your plans for Christmas and the holiday season?

Mark C. O' Flaherty: Lots of lunches and dinners with friends and family. No email or phone. Champagne, sea salt chocolate, the Wizard of Oz (always!) and my slanket.

What's been the highlight of your year so far?

Visiting the temples of Siem Reap, getting engaged and finally pressing “go” on civilianglobal.com, which I’ve talked about doing for years. Not necessarily in that order.

If you could give just one gift this year, what would it be?

A signed first edition of Philip Roth’s American Pastoral.

And if you could receive just one gift this year, what would that be?

Can I have two? I’d like a John Wayne Gacy clown painting and a Richard Torry herringbone sweater please.
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See more work from Mark C O' Flaherty | Learn more about CIVILIAN

Alan Taylor AW12: Concept and Commerce.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Tue, 13 Nov 2012 21:31:00 +0000

There's been a lot of love for the Irish fashion diaspora in London; from designers like Simone Rocha, Steve Corcoran (who you may remember from here) and Sorcha O' Raghallaigh to stylists like Angela Scanlon and Twin Magazine's Celestine Cooney. A recent addition is NCAD graduate Alan Taylor, whose work has its basis in a breed of simplicity that's not unusual to Irish designers, but is made that bit more complex with the forefront-of-fashion peculiarity synonymous with London. Here, we talk Dublin, London, the state of menswear, and kilts.

^ Alan Taylor photographed by Hedi Slimane

Male-Mode: You studied fashion design in Dublin (NCAD) and worked closely with Simone Rocha for several seasons (London) - what was the most important thing you took from each of these experiences?

Alan Taylor: It was the people in Dublin that made it. There is such an amazing network of people who really push us to do better, rather than compete against each other. London, and working with Simone, was learning all the details they can't teach you in university. I got to see the business grow from the ground up, being a part of everything from the production meetings to the show-rooms in Paris.

Your AW12 collection might be termed 'conceptual' or 'avant-garde', for want of better words, but there are still plenty of wearable pieces amongst the experimentation - what are your priorities when designing for men, wearability, imaginative concept or...?

I have a kind of ethos, which is I don't want my work to be an over-the-top departure from contemporary menswear, rather a development of classic ideas with a fresh take on construction and fabrication. I always want creativity to be at the forefront of my work but I know that fashion is a business at the end of the day, so I look to achieve the perfect balance between the conceptual and the commercial.

The collection seems to be a clash of traditionally masculine tailoring and a not-so-hidden femininity (kilts, plenty of sheer pieces), do you try to disregard conservative notions of what what might deemed socially gender-appropriate when designing?

Not necessarily, I try to keep my designs masculine, but fuck with it a little through the fabrication and garments - like with the kilt. I think that aesthetically and socially it feels like it fits, the clean lines of the pleats and the silhouette compliment the other garments in my collection and the expansion of menswear as an industry has taken a considerable leap in the past few years.

Men are becoming more aware of not only what they wear but how their clothing is made, the quality and the background of every garment. The kilt is also pushing the entirety of men’s silhouettes; kilts even three years ago would have seemed very feminine. I want to make an ‘Alan Taylor’ kilt a very masculine and understated garment to the extent that when the wearer puts it on, he is so comfortable with the idea of wearing it that he completely forgets he is wearing it at all.

What are the dominant fabrics in the collection?

The focus for this collection was black wax cotton, net and tweed. I like the juxtaposition of textures in my work.

And a couple more candid questions (as suggested by Twitter followers!)...

What are you wearing?

Converse, Cheap Monday jeans, white t-shirt, and a John Rocha jumper.

Would you wear a kilt?

I'd wear a kilt.

If you could have designed any other collection in history, which one would it have been?

Comme des Garcons Spring Summer 2008 Womenswear, Rei Kawakubo at her colourful best.

Jil Sander Spring Summer 2009 Womenswear, Raf Simons' pattern-cutting with water.

Early Madame Grés work - her innovation in sculpture through pleating was mind-blowing for her time.

Although the three collections I mentioned are womenswear, I see a designer's work as a statement of their overall manifesto that shouldn't be dictated by the gender of the wearer. Rei Kawakubo is a master of both concept and colour, Raf Simons can make a four-layer outfit look as light as a t-shirt and shorts, not to mention his innovation in construction, and Madame Grés is, in my opinion, one of the main influences for contemporary conceptual fashion design.
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Learn more about Alan Taylor

Mind the Chap: 'Seek Individuality. Dress Independently'.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Mon, 12 Nov 2012 20:15:00 +0000

If you're an exclusively designer devotee, the online shopping possibilities are myriad. From LN-CC to Oki-ni, Mr Porter to SSense, those with that bit more disposable income are spoilt for choice. The same goes for those on the directly opposite end of the scale, demanding a replication of the high-street experience online, an experience offered by numerous stores from ASOS to Urban Outfitters.

But the market gap in between seems relatively unexplored, a hazy area of little known artisan brands at mid- to luxury-level pricepoints that deters those entrepreneurs betting on either high income or high turnover. NYC-based online men's store Mind the Chap, co-founded by retail mavens Sapna Shah and Lisa Walters, brandishes the balls it takes to broach the unchartered territory and we'll be forever in their debt. I caught up with Sapna to talk retail, specialist brands, and standing out...

Male-Mode: What three words describe Mind the Chap most accurately?

Mind the Chap: We have a phrase versus three individual words: Showcasing edgy emerging designer - yes, i know that's four words but we are wordy people!

Being two female co-founders, do you feel your gender helps or hinders you in creating an online men's store?

More than gender, we feel that our experience in retail is the key in creating an online menswear site. Lisa and I have been in retail for a combined 25 years and this is our second entrepreneurial venture (our first was a retail consultancy for Wall Street).

Given our experience, we have a unique perspective on the fashion and retail industries because we've been so closely involved in new retail concepts and emerging brands, as well as worked for larger retail organizations like Ann Taylor, Gap and Linens 'n Things. After years of shopping for our husbands, brothers and friends, we've developed a distinct sense for unique brands and ahead-of-the-trend fashion. We're bringing this talent to Mind the Chap customers looking for something new and fresh, and not from the usual labels.

With plenty of competition already jostling in the men's online retail market, how does Mind the Chap carve out its own niche?

We believe Mind the Chap is unique in our approach to menswear online in a variety of ways. Our point of differentiation from other sites is to feature a selection of highly curated, fashion-forward emerging designers and brands that have extremely limited distribution (many are exclusive to Mind the Chap). Essentially, we carry the brands that you can't find elsewhere - we are constantly seeking out new brands that are ahead of the trend and cycling out brands that get too big for our model.

We believe this approach is unique to Mind the Chap and results in great collections that you can't find anywhere else. Mind the Chap is your wardrobe wingman, providing you with edgy, emerging brands that have novel design approaches and high quality craftsmanship - brands that only the most style-savvy insiders know about. These are not the brands your friends are wearing – they are the ones your friends will be asking you about. Seek individuality. Dress independently. These are our imperatives.

Your current brand roster ranges from sporty prep and smart casual to a style more experimental, are you appealing to a broad range of men, rather than following the more conservative model adopted by other stores, which stick to a more specific target market?

We are targeting a male customer 25-45 yrs old and we want to provide him with options for his lifestyle - whether he is more classic, casual, minimalist, or fashion forward. Our unique approach on the site is to mix and match a variety of lifestyles/brands together with outfits to create options for our shopper, so that even the more edgy brands become more approachable. This is another unique aspect of our site as most retailers and sites showcase head-to-toe branded looks.

What are the three key pieces for Fall Winter 2012?

Three pieces you must have this season are colored bottoms (a great khaki in burnt orange or red are our favorites), a great bag (leather or waxed canvas) and a standout tie (or better yet a bow tie!).

1. Will Leather Goods Howell double-zip portfolio; 2. General Knot & Co. fine charcoal chambray and black floral bow tie; 3. Sandast Italo weekender; 4. Will Leather Goods red Lennon backpack
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GET 15% OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER WITH DISCOUNT CODE STYLE15
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Learn more about Mind the Chap | Shop Mind the Chap

Masters of Style: Seán Jackson's 'On the Street' & 'Capturing the City'.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Fri, 09 Nov 2012 20:28:00 +0000

Lest you think I'm an insatiable facial hair fanatic, what with posts like this, and the beard-fest that is this, cropping up of late, consider this a more photography-focused post, rather than another toast to whiskers.

Following on from Jonathan Daniel Pryce's immensely successful 100 Beards, 100 Days, Irish photographer Seán Jackson was commissioned by men's grooming giant Gillette, to scour the streets of Dublin for similarly bearded and uniquely dressed men. The resultant series of 100 portraits formed 'Capturing the City' and 'On the Street', two exhibitions recently housed at the city's Gallery of Photography. Somewhere between candid street-style shots and portraiture, Jackon's impressive body of work presents an array of arresting personalities, while paying homage to the Dublin man's modern love affair with his facial hair.

Above-centre is impeccably dressed and is unquestionably bringing the beard realness, but above-right and far below-centre's jumper are spot-on style-wise - who's hit the nail on the head for you?

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Learn more about 'Capturing the City' & 'On the Street' | See more from Seán Jackson

Etre AW12: Honest-to-goodness.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Wed, 07 Nov 2012 22:43:00 +0000

It seems fitting to write about a brand that made its name with a pair of gloves when there's a relentless blizzard raging outside (first Sandy, now blankets of snow). Etre, a label specialising in honest-to-goodness staples, started out life as an award-winning London-based design agency but made the transition from website-making to design, in a more hands-on sense, with the idea for Etre Touchy gloves in December 2007.

The idea was simple: design a pair of gloves that looked good and guaranteed warmth whilst also allowing you to operate your myriad mobile devices. Etre Touchy gloves proved an unprecedented success, prompting the brand to expand the empire in 2008, with the launch of Etre Shop.

October 2012, and Etre continue to charm with the launch of their Autumn Winter 2012 collection, celebrating all several aspects of British style, from Oxford-inspired college scarves to the Fisherman jumpers; an exploration of the sartorial leanings of several social strata.

So far, so boring, right? Another bloody workwear-inspired collection that references the wardrobes of labourers from decades past, but targets graphic designers in Hoxton and Williamsburg? Wrong. Etre puts its money where its mouth is, seeing that each piece is lovingly crafted in the British isles, using responsibly sourced British materials.

Take, for example, their workwear jackets which are fabricated from 100 percent Melton wool, manufactured by a 150-year-old family-run business in West Yorkshire. Or have a gawk at the Gansey sweaters, knit from the finest 5-ply worsted wool, spun and dyed in Yorkshire mills. The indigenous craft industry love goes on with the leather gloves crafted by a family business established in 1944 (one of the last surviving British glove manufacturers, to boot) and satchels and holdalls fabricated by a small Cornish leatherwork company.

So, now you can look great, and look much less of a tosser knowing this brand does exactly what it says on the tin.

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Learn more about Etre | Shop Etre

Nicolas Ghesquière, Balenciaga and a few notes on menswear.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Mon, 05 Nov 2012 21:50:00 +0000

Another day, another dramatic upheaval at a Parisian fashion house. Since news of Nicolas Ghesquière's impending departure from the house of Balenciaga broke earlier today, I've mostly been wondering why hysterical fashion types lament a designer's mere career-change as if it were a tragic death.

Aside from that, I've been trawling through the GQ archive of Balenciaga show reports, familiarising myself with the lesser known of the two branches helmed by Ghesquière at Balenciaga - his truly unique menswear.

^ Spring Summer 2007; suiting and collegiate styles dominate

Singular, incomparable, individual since its inception in 2004, Ghesquière's clothing for men was at times genius in its ahead-of-the-curve daring, and at times not only questionably styled, but entirely questionable; obviously relegated to the back-seat behind its older, attention-grabbing sister, the Balenciaga menswear line under Ghesquière is a curious mix of spot-on - and way-off - the mark.

I'll happily 'fess up that I've never had the privilege of attending a Balenciaga men's show, nor have I any reference points to base this post on bar these images from a scattered selection of seasons. Still, in turning an objective eye towards Ghesquière's contribution to menswear, the boons and blunders are pretty plain to see. Juxtapositions of skinny and slouchy silhouettes that were a little too jarring, token splashes of colour lazily injected into a Spring Summer collection seemingly just for the sake of it, an oftentimes underwhelming impact in comparison to its womenswear counterpart.

Here, though, I've rounded up a selection which, for me, neatly summarises those triumphs the designer's tenure at Balenciaga deserves to be remembered for - from the preppy, nattily tailored beginnings to the Futuristic minimalism of the more recent offerings.

^ Autumn Winter 2007; military influences and a slightly more experimental bent emerge

^ Spring Summer 2008; short-shorts make an appearance several seasons before their being adopted widely ca. SS12; minimalist interpretations of sportswear enter the mix

^ Spring Summer 2011; the Futuristic vision now synonymous with Ghesquière's reign at Balenciaga is fully visible

^ Autumn Winter 2011; Parisian chic reminiscent of contemporaries Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin and Kris Van Assche

^ Spring Summer 2012; a knock-out collection of sharp cuts and geometric colour-blocking

^ Autumn Winter 2012; continuing on in the previous season's vein, Ghesquière's adds another string to his bow

^ Spring Summer 2013; explorations in cyber aesthetics give way to a more subdued, naturalistic minimalism

It saddens me a little to think that Ghesquière departs just as the house's men's divison has begun to cohere, excite and vie for a long-awaited place amongst the menswear greats. That said, I'm sure there's plenty more where that came from,
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Can we all now get a grip, reign it in, recognise nobody's died, salute Ghesquière for Balenciaga and wish him well in his future endeavours?
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Read more about the parting of Ghesqière and Balenciaga here

Images from GQ, Style and New York Magazine

A Selection for Pickie; Gift Ideas for the Guy with Relaxed Style

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Fri, 02 Nov 2012 12:56:00 +0000

Who dubbed Berlin 'start-up city'? Since arriving in NYC, I've come across more online fashion-related start-ups than I can shake a mouse-pointer at. It's difficult to think of the economic landscape as particularly nurturing for a new wave of innovators what with sky-high rents, often crippling taxes and decent salaries that trump the paltry few euro-an-hour wages of the German capital, and yet, NYC is brimming with new fashion-related e-commerce concepts.

Case in point: Pickie; a new iPad app designed to make the process of gifting entirely seamless. Having just announced their reaching $1m in venture funding investment, Pickie are well on their way to carving a niche in the re-torial market.

As part of their Holiday Gift Guide, I shared a few thoughts on what to buy the more sartorially laid-back guy in your life; sneak a peek, and click through below for more...

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Learn more about Pickie | See Gift Ideas for the Guy with Relaxed Style

The Khaki Contrast Jacket.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Thu, 01 Nov 2012 14:59:00 +0000

It's a rare occurrence that a major womenswear trend will wander from its original context and migrate to men's, but the now ubiquitous khaki contrast leather-sleeved biker jacket seems to be proving itself an exception to the unwritten rule.

A punchy combination of a quintessentially military/safari style with the timeles bad-ass insouciance of the biker jacket, this hybrid garment has swamped the high-streets since its recent emergence on the runway, with every accessible womenswear retailer offering their own version (Primark, Zara, Topshop etc.), and now with menswear designers trying their collective hand at it, too.

I've - so far - seen a Simon Spurr version as well as several bomber styles from the likes of McQ and Undercover. The below, from the house of Balenciaga, is the undisputed highlight so far. Here's what to wear it with...

1. Balenciaga tweed and leather biker jacket from Matches Fashion; 2. Church's Grizedale pebble-grain leather brogue boots from Mr Porter; 3. Thom Browne black half-frame sunglasses from Farfetch; 4. Sparks Blitz jeans from Topman; 5. Mulberry day leather gloves from Matches Fashion; 6. Belstaff Dorchester leather tote bag from Mr Porter.

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* This post was partly sponsored by Matches Fashion

'Title of Work' by Jonathan Meizler FW12: Accessories and the Abject.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Wed, 31 Oct 2012 16:34:00 +0000

Jonathan Meizler was bored by ties. I mean, weren't we all before this? With a background in independent film production, Meizler moved from camera lenses and shooting locations to couture womenswear - a dramatic gear shift by anyone's standards - to finally end up in men's accessories, working to dismantle the banal connotations of the necktie.

And so, 'Title of Work' was born. Now based in NYC, Meizler brings his wealth of experience in couture detailing to the men's market, hand-crafting an extensive collection that includes not only neckties, but bowties, cufflinks and tiepins, too.

For Fall Winter 2012, the designer looks to risqué Miami Beach artist Enrique Gomez de Molina and his body of uncanny taxidermy hybrids. A visceral mesh of the abject and the beautiful, De Molina's transgressive sculptures boldly go where no artist has gone before (and won't go again without a good deal of difficulty, according to this report on De Molina's imprisonment).

^ Sculptures by celebrated and officially condemned artist Enrique Gomez de Molina

Meizler certainly nods to the sculptor, but crafts a collection that channels the strangeness, that stresses the liminal nature of the imaginary border between something ugly and a thing of outstanding beauty.

Queue ties adorned with sterling silver ants, claws, fox heads, racoon teeth and Amazonian black cock feathers that transform a conventional well-crafted tie made from quality fabric to something altogether more singular. If sporting creepy-crawlies removed from the sanctioned context of Hallowe'en isn't really your thing, then there's plenty more to catch your eye including a range of more traditional but indisputably luxurious neckties as well as a selection of styles subtly embellished with leather bands and japanese mesh.

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Learn more about 'Title of Work' by Jonathan Meizler | Shop 'Title of Work' | Learn more about Enrique Gomez de Molina and his art | And look here for an unnerving Hallowe'en surprise

De Molina images from Lost at E Minor and The World of Photographers

Movember & Sons.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Mon, 29 Oct 2012 19:48:00 +0000

Since Sandy's really starting to lay it down outside, I've been thinking growing a mo - as an extra insulating layer - probably isn't the worst idea. Let's ignore the fact that my chances of 'stache success are slim, considering the common razor was an arbitrary and alien object to me up until the age of about oh say 17 (when I first shaved, and it wasn't even all that necessary...), and instead admire a few lads' hairy faces back home in Dublin.

As part of the 5th annual #MOVEMBER campaign, rugby player Jamie Heaslip, magician Shane Gillen, editor of Irish online men's lifestyle mag Joe.ie Mike Sheridan, and jockey Paul Carberry, banded together with photographer Lee Malone, stylist Marie Kelly, and several more mo-bros for an Irish Independent LIFE magazine shoot that promotes the campaign and celebrates notions of masculinity, both depression-era old-school and contemporary.

It also features footage of Ireland's hands-down best barber-shop, the Waldorf (beloved of every self-respecting, vaguely style-conscious Irishman from teenage band members to investment bankers), which provided me with a service that's so far proved inimitable.
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All funds raised as part of the Irish campaign go to the Irish Cancer Society's initiative, Action Prostate Cancer | Learn more about Movember | Learn more about Waldorf Barbershop

An Afternoon at Eayrslee.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Fri, 26 Oct 2012 20:14:00 +0000

Though they'd be far too humble to admit it, Joanne Lee and Mimi Eayrs-Jones, are some of Brooklyn's best when it comes to emerging designers. Having chatted with the girls behind Eayrslee around this time last year (you'll get the back-story here), I had the pleasure of meeting the bag-designing duo in person at their Greepoint-based studio just last week.

Currently juggling the tasks of planning the introduction of their SS13 wares to the market and also laying the conceptual concrete for their FW13 collection, Eayrs and Lee are busier than ever with stockists ranging from NY fixtures Gargyle and Thistle & Clover to AHALife.com, Ofakind.com as well as their own online store. And it's hardly surprising, given their knack for conceiving accessories which marry sound structure and practicality with aesthetically pleasing design.

With their FW12 collection (above) complete, the brand is beginning to move away from the Italian and Argentinian leathers which dominated previous collections, in search of leathers sourced from American tanneries so as to localise the craft and ease the formerly laborious process of quality control.

Oh and they're lightening up, too, quite literally. SS13 (below) sees Eayrslee combine their considered, faultlessly-constructed core designs with bursts of neon hues from lime green to safety orange - an apt nod to optimism for a label constantly on the up.

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Learn more about Eayrslee | Shop Eayrslee | See a full range of stockists here

Q+A: NUMBER: Lab

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian O' Connor) — Wed, 24 Oct 2012 15:58:00 +0000

Continuing on from the sports spruced-up tendency I attempted to define, or at least draw attention to, a few months back, this is NUMBER: Lab; a label, for those of you unfamiliar, that at its core seeks to mesh a technical, sportswear influence with a tailored, formalwear-informed aesthetic. It's triple-lined garments, reversible jackets and totes that double as backpacks that are created with equal attention to the matters of form and function. Five years since the brand's birth, designer Luis Fernandez and business partner Greg Lawrence continue to deliver.

Male-Mode: What is NUMBER:Lab?

Luis Fernandez: NUMBER:Lab is an American, men’s advanced-sportswear brand, for the man who is tech-savvy, athletically-minded and constantly on the go. We call it TECH+TAILORED, a collection geared towards keeping relevant in today’s modern world. Just like great architecture can impact the life of its inhabitants, we think that fashion too, should empower and enhance the performance of the wearer while still looking tailored and polished.

^ NUMBER: Lab Fall Winter 2012

Who does the team consist of?

Greg Lawrence and I founded the company in 2007, and we both still run the company together. I am the Creative Director and Designer and Greg deals with the business and operations side of the company.

Who is the NUMBER:Lab man?

Our ideal man is a perfect blend of the intellectual-with-athletic-sensibility or the stylish-athlete-with-smarts.

Where do you glean inspiration for your designs?

Art and sports are always an initiating source of research and inspiration for me and architecture, for sure, is always very present. I'm always fascinated by athletic and performance gear; it’s such a rich and educational source, from the super-techy and futuristic to great vintage images.

Blurring the boundary between tech and tailored is your speciality, what is it about this combination of form and function that is so important to you?

I have a suspicion it might have something to do with my ‘modernist’ architectural training at Cornell. I still keep Le Corbusier’s Towards a New Architecture on my nightstand. Even 90 years later, this book still holds a very pure lesson of form plus function that can be re-interpreted for today’s modern world. Technology has started to rule and influence our lives in ways we don’t even perceive anymore. We are surrounded by apps and gadgets that enhance our daily life, and that give us more efficiency, speed and comfort. I think that our clothes should speak to that, and do the same thing.

NUMBER:Lab is currently involved in the CFDA {Fashion Incubator}; can you tell us a bit about how this program came about, and how it benefits your brand?

The CFDA {Fashion Incubator} is one of the Council of Fashion Designers of America's programs, which supports the new generation of fashion designers. There are ten designer brands that were chosen to be a part of it, for a two-year period. It’s really quite an honor. Aside from this great space in NYC’s garment district, there is an amazing mentorship program with some of the best industry leaders. It is an incredible support system which aids in fortifying our business and helps us to be competitive in the fashion industry.

Since founding the brand in 2007, what’s been the highlight so far? And the most difficult challenge?

Oh wow, that’s quite a loaded question. It has definitely been a roller-coaster ride. That’s the fashion world for you - never a dull moment. There are tons of highs and lows (sometimes just in one day alone), and you just have to keep bobbing and weaving. You know, rolling with the punches, and that keeps you on your toes. As a designer, anything that keeps you on your toes and that keeps you moving (sometimes even running) is a good thing. You can never stop observing, learning or asking questions. It’s what propels creativity. As for an all-time high, there is no better feeling than spotting someone wearing something you've created. Every time. And if they make a comment about how great they feel wearing it, or if they thank you for it, it really hits you inside. It tingles, in a really good way.

You’re done and dusted with SS13, what’s next for the brand? Are there are any particular long-term goals? Interest in collaboration(s)?

Well, sort of. Now comes the production and execution of the SS13 collection, which is almost just as important. It’s the last step in making that sketch a reality. But yes, as a designer, you are always living and thinking in the future. I’m almost done with designing FW13 (it’s a bit crazy, because it doesn’t even feel like Fall 2012 has arrived yet). I’m always thinking of collaborations and design partnerships. It’s such a cool concept to bring two points of views, and two different areas of expertise, together to create something. There are a couple of them cooking which are very exciting. But our main goal is, really, to continue to grow the brand, and to continue to explore and express our point of view.

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Learn more about NUMBER: Lab | Shop NUMBER: Lab