Male-Mode.com

Il Sistema Degli Oggetti: Beauty and Baudrillard.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:28:00 +0000

Postmodernism, simulacra, meaning, consumption vs. production - these are the Baudrillardian sociological theories which inform Italian label, Il Sistema Degli Oggetti's, aesthetic. Eh...what? Aren't you always that little bit wary when a brand attaches itself to some lofty academic concept that's vague enough to elude strict definition and, therefore, capable of being bastardised? It screams pretension to me, since designers are so v. rarely aware of what the whole crux of their chosen concept is. That said, I'm no Baudrillard expert (see Ana K of Ripped Knees for more learned observations), I mean I know who he is, but I skipped the entire section on postmodernism and avoided semiotics like the plague when it came to revising Film Theory last year.

A brand which takes its name from Jean Baudrillard's 1968 seminal publication, The System of Objects, Il Sistema is the product of three talented Politecnico di Milano grads (Caterina Coccioli, Anna Lottersberger, and Alessandro Manzi) who banded together in 2008 in the hopes of translating the French theorist's notions into covetable clothing. But aside from Baudrillard's idea of "consumption" being at the core of our society's being, and that, what we wear acts as a signifier in the semiotic sense, I can't really make any solid links between Il Sistema's designs and Baudrillard's musings.

Still, it's a bloody good AW10 collection and I want it all, which is the main point of it all, right? Well cut woolen suits in charcoal are testament to the designers' love of quality Italian craftsmanship, and are offset by delicate shirting, that mountain peak print shirt, with a welcome sportswear interjection from the zippered mesh shirt and parka. Gimme.

Staple Sweaters from Oki-Ni

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 20:24:00 +0000

I've not really made it much of a secret that I've been heralding rather than lamenting the arrival of Autumn. Not only is this the season you get to pile on chunky knits, wear socks with shoes (f**king foot comfort...finally!), and start budgeting for another pair of all-important boots, it's also, however, the one that leaves you huddled in your hallway ignoring knocks at the door from a seemingly insatiable debt collector - or is that just the way I imagine myself turning out after I've pored over the below?

Most of the stock featured on online advocate of avant-garde menswear, Oki-ni.com, has, and will be for the foreseeable future, out of my price-range, but a spot of Autumn Winter 2010 porn never hurt, right? Here are just a couple of my picks from the latest collections to go live:

^ Alexander McQueen Mock Neck Knitted Jumper - Ultra soft wool? Intarsia skulls and heritage patterns? Am sold.

^ Warriors of Radness Dunes Sweater - Quite like the oversized pocket in the front, can imagine wearing it is something akin to being a rather large stoplight red kangaroo. Win.

Raun Larose AW10: New Talent from NYC

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 14:50:00 +0000

With such a wealth of menswear talent in existence and emergence in London, it's sometimes easy to forget about designers stateside. Although I'd turn to Paris over New York when scrolling through next season collections on GQ.com, it's the latter that, with its unpretentious and relaxed aesthetic, often inspires my day-to-day style. That said, there's no doubt the optimum look would be a hybrid of the two fashion capitals, and Brooklyn-based Raun Larose seems to concur with his AW10 collection of jersey, wool, and that now firm fashion favourite - neoprene.

I dug a little deeper to learn more about NY's latest menswear talent...

MM: What experience do you have in the industry? Did you study fashion?

RL: I've interned at Zac Posen in Paris, interned at the fashion department of VIBE Magazine, and then eventually went on to start my label Raun

LaRose. Although, i'm still searching for opportunities on a daily basis. I attended the Art Institute of NYC, Lately, I attended FIT. Where I

took courses in Menswear Design.

MM: What inspired the AW10 collection?

RL: With this collection I didn't want to be inspired by one thing in

particular. If I said I was, then I would be lying. I wanted to produce

garments that just looked more like works of art.

MM: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

RL: As for my aesthetic, I design for the individual who is in search of

change in his daily wardrobe. I love sophistication with a modern

twist. I've been dubbed the 'American European'. It took me a while to

discover my appreciation for European culture and design.

But I also know that I don't want to have a signature as a designer, I don't want to be known for doing only one thing. I always hope to

push boundaries.

^ Love the simplicity, and Raf Simons-esque quality, of these pieces.

^ Two options for eveningwear - go safe, but decidedly slick, or go a bit mad with the belted, crazy collared number that Rei Kawakubo wishes she had designed.

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Since Larose's website seems on the brink, follow him on Twitter for updates.

Murdock London: The Best Barber's in Town

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 11:03:00 +0000

Great and all as it is, I'm going to attempt to reign in my gushing for London in the hopes that what's being reported from various sources is of some truth - that Dublin's undergoing somewhat of a renaissance with countless creative club nights, vintage stalls, and finally a street-style blog that faithfully represents us paddies not as perma-tanned Uggs aficionados or try-hard indie-types getting it all so v. wrong, but as the eclectic, exciting, and - dare I say it - sexy bunch we really are.

One thing I'm pretty sure we're lacking, though, is a bloody good barber's of the Murdock London ilk. Established by an Irishman, Brendan Murdock, in 2006, Murdock is a series of barbershops spread over London's ample central area catering to the modern man whose just as interested in engaging in a bit of old-school dandy styling as he is in getting a damn good chop. With three locations dotted throughout the UK capital (the original store in Shoreditch, for which the likes of quiff-devotee Pelayo opts, the Liberty's store, which also offers treatments for those barnets in need of buffering, and the v. traditional Mayfair branch, which, situated just off Old Bond St., caters to London's professional and tourist types), the brand never ceases to please.

^ The unbeatably spiffy Murdock Mayfair shop window

Having been invited to the Mayfair store for a complimentary haircut or shave by the v. lovely Lewis last week, I couldn't really refuse. I opted for the haircut despite having had the mop seen to by the amazing Jess of Ego Hair on Neal Street (as recommended by LSoD) just a few weeks prior - blame the thick, fast-growing hair genes. Can't really say just how glad I am now that I did.

^ Handsome genius with a clippers, Stephane, who not only gave me the subtle quiff I was after, but also prevented me from downing that Peroni at a breakneck speed.

Having been given a tour of the store which, in terms of décor, is v. much catering towards the trappings of old-world gentlemanliness - think red leather barber's chairs complete with iron-plate footrests (felt all v. Sweeney Todd minus the serial-killing and cannibalism of course, naturally, I loved it) and wood-panelled interiors, I was handed a cold beer and seated with Stephane, one of three stylists at the store, who, in stark contrast to every other person whose hands were responsible for my hair, asked me at regular intervals what look I was after, rather than carelessly flaunting technique.

And it's not just cold beers and quality hairstyling that Murdock offers, each store also stocks rare brands from likes of the fragrances of French perfumers Molinard, to Fin's suede loafers. So, not only do you emerge with a good cut, but you can leave looking and smelling the proper dandy, too.

And the result having had mah hur deed...

^ Shirt from River Island

Icarus Store: Australia's Own Menswear Mecca

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 09:46:00 +0000

Is it just me is 90% of the Irish population hopelessly in love with the idea of emigrating to Australia? I've never been the sun, sea, and surf kind of guy who relishes the prospect of spending hours on end on a scorching hot beach, not getting up to much apart from lounging around under UV rays and glugging Corona. Ok - random post intro but this does have some relevance as I've just come across Reason No. 1 as to why I should consider developing my own personal obsession - Sydney's Icarus Store.

Launched in mid 2010, the brainchild of Nathan Lim, Icarus Store goes where every other Australian retailer has feared to tread, stocking international labels from NY-based minimalist Patrik Ervell to Topman LENS collaborators, Mjölk. I caught up with Nathan to dig a little deeper on this retail wonderland down under...

MM: What convinced you to open a menswear boutique?

NL: I opened Icarus Store based on the observation of a lack of inspiring clothing stores currently on offer to male shoppers in Sydney or even Australia. I felt that Sydney was missing a dedicated menswear boutique catering to savvy male shoppers who appreciate well crafted clothing and are very much “quality over quantity”.

^ Various views of Icarus' enticing shop window

What's your professional background? Have you always been in fashion?

My background has been in finance working for a large consulting firm however I’ve had a lifelong ambition of owning my own store. Although I don’t have any fashion industry experience per se, there’s always been an interest and I hope to bring a different and fresh perspective to retailing in Sydney.

^ Inside the store. Someone feature this in a visual merch. how-to book now.

MM: What sets Icarus apart from its competitors?

NL: From the moment you step into the store, you won’t feel any pressure to buy anything. We aim to offer friendly and personalized service which is a rarity to find these days. In addition, I see Icarus as a relaxed and laid back store environment where everyone is welcome to hang out and shoot the breeze.

MM: I hate to use the term 'must-have', but is there a particular item you'd strongly recommend for AW10?

NL: My favourite menswear designer at the moment is Patrik Ervell. His clothes are very non-showy which is why I probably identify with it. The piece I’m looking forward to most in the collection is the Field Coat – his take on the iconic M-65.

^ The exposed brick wall serves as a reminder of what previously occupied the store space - a period terraced house, amaze, no? Craving the ecru canvas Commune de Paris tote on the right.

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Icarus Store is at 42 Reservoir St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010, Australia. If you're not in the area you can stock up on all the indie designer goodness at Icarusstore.com

Fine Tees & F. Scott Fitzgerald.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 09:39:00 +0000

With my time in London coming to a close for now, I thought it was time to loosen budget constraints a little (unpaid work will leave you homeless, but you know, it's good experience!) and buy a little British for something to remember my -*CHEESE ALERT* - Summer of sometimes debauched, other times dignified, always unforgettable, frolics and fashion. Can't really believe I just said that...

What I've picked up, though, is more a NYC-themed haul than London-centric (esp. considering Topman is now storming over stateside and what with Scott Fitzgerald often being labelled the quintessential American author). How and ever, these are cheap staples that I plan to wear - and er...read - to rags.

^ Navy crewneck tee from Gap (£8); Striped scoopneck tee from Topman (£14)

Finding good quality tees on the high street always proves more difficult than I anticipate it to be. Whether the fit is too second-skin or too boxy, whether the tee shrinks beyond all recognition after just one wash, or whether it's unravelling having just been through just one night out on the town, a good tee is every bit as elusive as the perfect pair of jeans. Of the two above, the Gap tee fits well and feels incredibly good, while the Topman (being Topman) is of decent quality but probably won't be lasting me longer than the usual six months cycle. Still, it's Breton-esque, and you'll probably have guessed by now, I'm a bit of a stripe nut.

^ F Scott Fitzgerald novels for the price of an apple (probably)

Most well-dressed folk I know invariably recommend spending hours on end trawling through mounds of tat in charity shops in the hopes of unearthing a gem amongst the previously owned rough. I have nothing against wearing previously worn clothing, but I'm not going to give up several hours which could be spent either drinking coffee (or gin for that matter...), reading, or having a LOL with friends in order to wade through Dublin's decidedly average Oxfams. Well, not regularly anyway. What I will do, though, is happily buy more books than I can comfortably carry for the price of a couple of months Attitude or Dazed. These are two of one of my fave author's novels that I've been trying to track down for a while now, and when Little London Fields Festival and some quaint, and endearingly chaotic old bookshop in Finsbury Park proffered, I couldn't really refuse now, could I?

Note: If you're considering digging in to some Scott Fitzgerald, I'd recommend Tender is the Night over the so often hyped up and entirely overrated The Great Gatsby. Just sayin'.

WIN: Wingate Prints Winner.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:58:00 +0000

After what's proved a rather lengthy deliberation over all your entries for the Wingate Prints comp, I've finally narrowed it down to one. Congrats Dave Wrenne! And props for your entry which boasted both eye-catching prints and an interesting concept to boot.

Dave selected designs featured in the News Knitter collection as his favourite prints and below he explains in brief and certain terms just why:

"News Knitter is a set of 10 unique, knitted garments as an exploration of textiles as an alternative medium to visualize large scale data. It involves converting information gathered from daily political news into clothing. Also, live feeds are analyzed, filtered, and converted into a unique visual pattern for a knitted sweater, so that each sweater is the graphic result of a specific day or period. I love that the prints aesthetically interesting and intellectually stimulating.".

Thanks to everyone who entered, all of your entries were great!

Michael Kampe: Exploding the Mores of Menswear.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 12:05:00 +0000

Is menswear really as constipated as many still claim? Everyone talks boundaries, limitations, strictures...but, aside from the given (men probably aren't going to embrace skirts or bustiers wholeheartedly), recent seasons have seen a fairly rapid expansion of what's deemed conventional for men to wear - from meggings to mlutches.

F**k-off drama, though, still only seems to reign in the realm of womenswear. Aside from Thom Browne and Galliano, designs that revel in excess just aren't that common on the runways of men's fashion week. Enter ITS#NINE winner Michael Kampe whose imposing work is set to radically change the mores of menswear. Still a student at the frankly amaze Antwerp's Royal Academy, German native Kampe won this year's top prize (€25,000 and an internship with Diesel at its HQ in Italy) for his collection inspired by the exploded view of engineering drawings...er, yeah, I didn't have a clue either - check this for enlightenment.

^ A digitally printed jumper from Kampe's collection

Kampe took this source of his inspiration as the blueprint for his construction, 'exploding' staples like a trench or a parka and re-constructing them using, for example, digital printed cotton on foam. Alongside items like the patchwork denim jacket that caught Diesel's collective eye, sit (or rather loom) mammoth multifaceted creations featuring digital prints of a rare photo series by Naoya Hatakeyama.

^ The patchwork denim jacket which is also lined with indigo-dyed linen

See more of Kampe's BA grad collection, here. Check out Daryoush Haj-Najafi's interview with Kampe for Vice Style for more on the designer's work, tutelage, and fondness for Diesel. PS. I know, Vice comes up with something remotely interesting that's not written in that cringe-inducingly obnoxious tone, whodathunkit?

Images from Vice Style

Aertex: Shaping Menswear Since 1888.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 10:09:00 +0000

I love a good heritage brand, don't you? All the meaty history and years of manufacturing and production experience form an enticing combination. As we all know, making the daily decision of what to wear isn't just a case of opting for what's aesthetically pleasing (or clean, as is often the case with myself), but also involves the consideration of clothing as a signifier. Without delving too far into semiotics, it's interesting to note that what you don instantly communicates something to those who see you in daily life - be it an insight into your personality, your mood, or - and this is this post's chief theme - an advocation of a particular style or brand. Heritage brands, steeped in history as they are, hold the added appeal of conveying a whole host of stories through their wares.

Aertex, born back in 1888 under the helm of Lewis Haslam, is one such brand. I'm not going to regurgitate the brand's v. extensive bio here since it's done in a much more informative and entertaining fashion on the site than I could ever provide, but suffice to say that from Haslam's invention of the breathable fabric, Aertex, to the house's integral role in sporting circles (their fabric was used in the England team's 1970 World Cup gear), this is a label that's stood the test of time and speaks volumes because of this.

^ Highlights from Aertex's online shop - Clockwise from top: Keele Knitted Sweater at £75; Jarvis Long Sleeve Knitted Jacket at £70; Ric Fleece Over Shirt at £50; Gillett Double Face Check Shirt at £60

Now, having contributed to the world of athletics for decades, the brand has opted to evolve into something of a high-end, high-street label. There's definitely something Fred Perry-esque about the brand's re-direction, with some serious music (think Dirty Pretty Things' Carl Barat and The Charlatans' Jon Brooks) and media (babe Rick Edwards) names being tied to the new aesthetic.

Personally, though, I'm just a bit head over heels for the skinhead styling of their Spring Summer 10 lookbook. It's all Slava Mogutin meets British indie band.

Full Circle AW10: No Mary, but lots of Mots.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 17:14:00 +0000

You know, I'm pretty sure Mary Portas is God. No mere mortal can manage the feat of looking full-on fierce, aiding helpless retailers to salvage their staid stores, while also managing to be impossibly charming, refreshingly irreverent, and acerbically witty. Oh, and she has a killer bob.

So, it was in the hopes of possibly catching a glimpse of the woman (or is she more deity?) herself that I went along to Yellowdoor's (Portas' London-based PR agency) Autumn Winter 10 press day. As my better judgement had foretold, she was nowhere to be seen. Still, I did manage to drown my disappointment in free champagne cocktails and feasting the eyes upon new season desirables. Case in point - Fullcircle's MOT reversible shirts in blue and red.

Mot Reversible Check and Chambray Shirt in Blue Mix - £105

And this is the shirt in red - for those of you that may be colour-blind.

Granted plaid shirts are a fairly knackered option for another season, but the addition of reversibility and a leather-style (it's polyurethane, and for the price-tag they could've gone the whole hog) collar and cuffs just adds enough interest to prevent this future staple being a decent but terminally boring shirt. Oh, and it's reversible, so, like a mullet, it's all business in the front (chambray) and party in the back (plaid). But nowhere near as fugly, obv.

WIN: Owl Neck Sweater by Wingate Prints.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Mon, 09 Aug 2010 09:50:00 +0000

Another week, another opportunity for one of you to bag a sartorial pick-me-up to squash the Monday morning blues. I had mentioned I'd be divvying up blogger loot and I'm not to go back on his word unless, of course, Burberry somehow thought it might be a genius idea to gift me a shearling jacket for the season ahead - such a scenario could call for a new set of rules...

I digress. Shoreditch-based print studio, Wingate Prints, were kind enough to donate the latest giveaway. Founded by Norwich Textiles grad Sam Wingate (whose designs were chosen for the signature design to be seen in DKNY's flagship Bond Street store), the brand consists of everything from printed cushions (think prints of your fave watering holes down East, including The George and Dragon and The Royal Oak) and napkins, to aprons, wallpaper, tees, and sweats. As well as being stocked in several London-based boutiques, Sam transforms his cosy studio into a retail space every weekend, or as he succinctly puts it, "In the back room I print it, in the front room I sell it". No outsourcing bulls**t here, then.

Abounding with architectural references and bold splashes of colour, the Wingate designs have just the right amount of quirk without bordering on cliché kitsch territory. But enough chatter - here's what's up for grabs...

WIN! Owl Neck Sweat by Wingate Prints

TO WIN: Send a picture of your favourite print (any old image, not necessarily taken by yourself) and a couple of sentences explaining why to cillian[at]male-mode.com. It can be anything from something you saw on a car-seat interior to a the lining of a couture gown. 2) Don't forget to include your name, postal address, and size preference (sizes available are: S/M/L/XL). 3) Competition closes Monday 16th August 2010 at 9am.

Good luck!

Roman Cieślewicz at the Royal College of Art 2010

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Sat, 07 Aug 2010 08:56:00 +0000

Since re-designing the blog I've been keen to widen the focus of the content here to reflect 'style' in all its incarnations, rather than concentrating purely on the ins and outs of fashion, which can - I feel - send many blogs to an early grave due to the sheer boredom endless posts on collections that might be out of reach logistically, or financially, can bring to a 'fashion blog'.

That said, I'll be broaching other subjects (with the exception of film) with as little expertise and as much gushing fanboy love as I've tackled the subject of menswear so don't expect cultural criticism as much as snippets of what intrigues me. Now, with that out of the way, I urge you to get yourself to London's Royal College of Art and to check out their latest exhibition, which features work from Polish-born, French-naturalised graphic artist Roman Cieślewicz (13th January 1990 - 21st January 1996).

Cieślewicz's poster for Hitchcock's Vertigo

Spread over three sprawling rooms, the exhibition provides a thorough insight into the artist's oeuvre, whilst also contextualising each of Cieślewicz's artistic periods using historical details about his life in general. From the surrealistic to the Soviet constructivist, Cieślewicz's work is informed by several styles which he combined within the one work. What interested me most, though, was the artist's work as art director with Elle and contributor to Vogue. I didn't manage to track down the amazing, somewhat surrealistic cover he did for Elle back in what I recall was the 1960s, but it's on show in the RCA if you're about.

A poster for a play by Fernando Arrabal

A poster for Polish retail chain, Moda Polska (Polish Fashion)

The exhibition also just touches on the perpetual question of whether a leftist artist can remain true to his politics if he/she's working with commercial big-name corporates who aren't likely to be on the same ideological wavelength. Although his working with fashion magazines and ad agencies ruled him out as a radical, Cieślewicz still sought to forward the cause of the Left and was honest about the projects he undertook saying something along the lines of, 'I work with companies who have money in order to work for those who don't'.

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Roman Cieślewicz at the Royal College of Art ends today, August 7th 2010.

Images from Revel in New York, Many Stuff, Artnet

Hentsch Man AW10: Hooked on Benny.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Thu, 05 Aug 2010 15:10:00 +0000

In true geriatric fashion I'm going to start this post with another weather-related observation - where did the sun go? Twice this past week I've emerged from the house with high hopes for blue skies and beams and have returned to the house either sodden or windswept, which is why my latest sartorial acquisition couldn't be more welcome.

Hentsch Man, a brand first founded with the aim of creating the perfect white shirt, is a line of v. well cut shirts, trousers, shorts, and some spiffy footwear, that prizes quality craftsmanship and longevity above over-elaborate design.

Benny Shirt for AW10

Designer friends behind the label, Alexia and Max, have already launched an online shop (head over there now if only to check out the jazzy stop-motion animated intro) as well as manned two pop-up shops for AW09 and SS09 in London's Mayfair and Notting Hill, respectively. Their overall brand aesthetic which is pretty pared down wouldn't typically attract me given my personal preference for more embellishment be it stripes or panelling, but once I'd tried on their AW10 'Benny' shirt, I reconsidered.

Crafted from flannel, the shirt comes in a shade that seems equal parts baby blue (fave!) and stone grey and is criminally soft to the touch (have to periodically remind myself to stop stroking and finish writing this...). With considerable brand expansion slated for the upcoming season (including jackets and more shirting), it's exciting to see a small brand succeed in what's so often an industry dominated by the heavyweights.

Shirt by Hentsch Man, Woven belt from Urban Renewal, Shorts from H&M, Shoes from Topman

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NOTE: It's not often I'm the recipient of blogging-related gifts, but that's not to say my inner slut emerges at the prospect of securing, say, a free sample of skincare products. Hentsch Man is a brand I love I started this blog as an online scrapbook/portfolio of sorts, with the intention of having an outlet for all fashion and style related musings/observations/rants, whilst also providing a site where I could direct those considering giving me writing commissions. The blog's purpose has not veered away from this initial aim, however, most of you will have noticed that I've introduced some advertising (to fund this sojourn in London and future press trips). While I'm divulging, I should add that I've received a few press freebies along the way (including the above), and I'm eager to share the spoils - more on that next week.

Male Muse: Wolfgang Tillmans

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 18:49:00 +0000

I can't say I'm ever head over heels enthused about the prospect of visiting a gallery or museum. This is probably due to the fact that I invariably associate most exhibitions with pained legs as a result of lengthy periods of time spent standing, frustratingly fleshy contextualising written materials that are full of interesting information but are too bloody comprehensive leaving you with no choice but to skim the surface of the subject at hand, sleepiness induced by dead silence, and that incredible distance from the work that somehow often leaves you feeling cold and keenly aware of the whole artificiality of the situation in which you're experiencing the artist's vision.

That said, the current Wolfgang Tillmans' exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery in London's Hyde Park is a welcome exception. I ventured out west last week to take a look and it proved well worth it. Prior to the exhibition, I held scant knowledge of the artist and knew only that he lived in Berlin and London and loved to photograph beautiful boys, which was, for me, enough reason to justify a visit.

Dan

Wald by Wolgang Tillmans

Lauded for his talent of picturing the banalities of the everyday from such a perspective that the boring details of life are transformed into beautiful images imbued with countless potential interpretations, Tillmans won the Turner Prize in 2000 and was featured on the cover of the SS10 issue of Fantastic Man (in which he brilliantly juxtaposes skinhead chic with a domesticity).

Tillmans on the cover of Fantastic Man

Although it's more his art rather personal style I'm feting here, you can't really deny he makes a plaid shirt look especially good.

Portrait by Stuart Mentiply

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Ta-dah! Although it's been an age in the offing, the blog has finally got the re-design that it's been shamelessly begging for for far too long now. You might also notice the subtle addition of "and more" to the header, which loosely translates as, "expect more posts on film and other things not strictly fashion but style-related". Mega thanks to impossibly talented illustrator, and founder of Decoy, Richard Kilroy for his work on the blog header - you've only gone and wow-ed me again with this. Do let me know your thoughts on the blog, whether you think it naff or nifty.

Images from Serpentine Gallery, Ricky Day, Pilot Magazine, and Lolay Maria

Ushering in Autumn: my-wardrobe.com for AW10.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:01:00 +0000

Is it usually this stiflingly hot in London? In so many ways the English capital doesn't seem so far removed from Dublin but anything weather-related is an exception. Yeah, you have a few showers here now and then but the constant humidity is nigh on unbearable most of the time and I'm not usually in fear of extensive sunburn when ~~running~~ crawling to the corner shop back home.

While this Summer may have brought me sky-high levels of vitamin D, it's also ushered in a sort of sartorial lethargy; vests, shorts and shoes sans socks are all I can manage when a walk to the Tube is bound to prove more tropical than temperate. So, naturally, I've already started thinking about what'll be on offer come Autumn/Winter and the folks at my-wardrobe.com were more than willing to inform about the choices for padding for the impending weather change.

The v. lovely Susannah and Ashleigh gave me a thorough run down of what's on offer, from Stone Island to Paul Smith, Grenson boots to Mulberry bags.

Personally, I'm not huge on utilitarian clothing or conforming to the mantra of function over form. Don't get me wrong, I embraced the workwear trend as wholeheartedly as the next man donning boots and denim shirts pretty regularly, but as a rule I'm not hunting for the latest fabric finish that'll keep me insulated/dry/bulletproof etc. etc. That said, Stone Island are offering pieces that seem to strike the balance between the two, providing a potential purchase that seems practical yet stops short of un-pretty.

A suitable alternative to the now ubiquitous Barbour, the below Belstaff waxed jacket was also a great find. The quilted texturing, chocolate hue and buckle detail at the collar combine to just win my favour over the Royal Family's firm favourite.

But it was the introduction to the coming season's eveningwear that had me shaking ever so slightly like a crack addict in desperate need of a speedy fix, only the fuss was over...er...blazers in place of narcotics.

^ D&G navy blazer

^ Paul Smith black velvet blazer

The AW selection was also strong on footwear with brogues prevailing as undisputed shoe of the season and I can't really complain.

^ An impressive array of brogues. Considering securing a mahogany pair for myself.

^ Really beautiful Grenson suede and leather boots with brogue detailing.

^ More well-crafted bags than you can shake a stick at.

Now, time to call this weather-realted whining to a halt and enjoy what's left of Summer '10. Couldn't do any harm to just talk about attire for the wetter, windier months, though - what's on your wishlist?

WIN: Field Day Tickets from Fullcircle in association with Bugged Out.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:07:00 +0000

It's been press days galore this past week which has left me slightly short on blogging time. But I have thought of the the perfect way to make it up to those of you who've been missing regular-ish posts and love a good Field Day.

That brand I've so lauded for its clean and somewhat spare aesthetic, Fullcircle, is hosting a very special stage in association with all night electro/techno touring party, Bugged Out, at London's Field Day this Saturday July 31st and are v. generously proffering two pairs of tickets to the event!

From a Simian Mobile Disco DJ set to cabaret, inimitable East London style to gawk at to food from the peeps who are responsible for all the deliciousness back home at Electric Picnic (VSC Events, for those of you who don't know), there'll be something for everyone down Victoria Park way on Saturday.

SO, in order to enter simply follow me on Twitter if you're not already doing so (@malemode) and send your name to buggedout [at] fullcircleuk.com, with 'Male-Mode.com' in the subject line. Another competition so insanely easy it should be criminal - get entering now since this comp must close Friday morning at 10.00am!

Spread the word!

And just to get you in the mood...

Ehud Men AW10: Home From War.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 07:50:00 +0000

Interning isn't all lugging bags of clothing here, and sending press releases and invites out there, you do learn a lot in the process. Aside from the countless nuggets of industry knowledge I've acquired so far, I've also been introduced to several new designers and labels, thanks to a helpful boss who's sole concern is not - thankfully - piling on the donkey work.

Just last week I was poring over stylists' email requests for shoots when I came across the lookbook for Ehud. Founded by CSM grad Ehud Joseph, the label sets out, like many other new labels attempting to carve out a niche in this fast-growing market, to disregard the staid conventions of a lot of menswear and re-define the term for the contemporary man. Although there's a sneak-peek of Joseph's SS11 collection already available for view online, it's the AW10 collection I'm fawning over, here.

Enlivening classic tailoring with eye-catching prints, Ehud succeeds in offering a collection that derives its appeal from its wearability as much as it does from its understated flamboyance. Inspired by an architectural sensibility, Joseph ensures his silhouette isn't staid by ranging from the slim and body-conscious (a printed rollneck) to the more traditional (the trenchcoat further below). I caught up with the Amsterdam-based designer to talk motivation and inspiration...

What motivated you to become a menswear designer?

After I finished art school I tried to be an artist but I found that expressing myself through art didn't work. Initially I trained in the technical aspects of garment construction for fun but as I started making clothes I found that I was able to express ideas, stories and moods more affectively through clothing than I ever managed to through art.

Once I started making collections I also found that I enjoyed the immediacy of the process and the way I could reinvent the story every few months.

Where did you train?

I did a degree in Fine Art in New Zealand. My main fashion training was a Masters at Central Saint Martins.

What other brands/houses did you work for before establishing your own label?

I worked for Michalsky in Berlin and did consultations for Tim Soar in London and Mattijs in Amsterdam. I also worked for a big retail chain in the Netherlands for a year. While designing mass fashion is very educational it's very nice to be able to be creative again!

What inspires you?

I find small snippets of life, experiences, either real or made up, as the most potent starting point. Once a story comes into focus I try and build a fuller picture through visual research. I love uniform detailing, traditional structuring and the architectural aspect of garment cosntruction, so drawing through these ideas and seeing where they go is a very exciting part of the development process.

I am also increasingly interested in fabric treatments and manipulations.

Your AW10 collection seems to strike the optimum balance between outdoorsy ruggedness and an understated but still ornate chic. What was your starting point for the collection in terms of inspiration?

I wanted to create an imaginary wardrobe of a soldier returning home from a war. The past lingers on in the way he dresses showing the influence of his previous experience as he embarks on a new, urban life.

The designs tried to combine uniforms and performance clothes and then alter them into classic city styles. This ranged from reversible coats with a protective coating on one side, and a classic wool on the other, through to army style pants in noble fabrics. We also developed modern camouflage which was inspired by early computer graphics from the 80's.

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Find the rest of the collection here.

FxF: Talenthouse & A Shaded View on Fashion Film.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 07:50:00 +0000

I could ramble lengthily on why film is the new medium for presenting fashion but I dare say it'd prove a considerable pain in the ass taking into account you're all already aware of this. Cheaper than erecting extensive catwalks, more in tune with contemporary media and the viral approach to marketing, and just, well, a little bit brilliant, film is fast consolidating its place as the sister fashion never really had. Until now.

For me, it was my recent interview with William Richard Green that put everything into perfect perspective. In particular, it was this statement from the emerging menswear talent:

"I think that film is a great format to present fashion - a more controlled and more mood-orientated medium than a catwalk show which at the same time retains the defining sense of fashion as a moving, rather than static, medium."

Ace - wouldn't you agree? Anyway, I've just realised I've completely failed in initial aim to cut short any tangential talk so I'd like to draw your attention to this - the A Shaded View on Fashion Film competition established by Diane Pernet in association with Talenthouse, judged by Pernet and everyone's favourite precocious editrix, Tavi. It's currently at the voting stage so get viewing and have your say.

Entries range from a film in which a model sporting a variety of whimsical hats engages with eggs (no, not in that sense), variously crushing, throwing, and eating them (Three Eggs by Mich Dulce) to one in which two women swathed in fabric battle Wu Shu style (Let Me Go by Hieu Phan). My fave so far? Definitely Einstellung's Skull & Bones, an eery flick which seems to draw on both film noir's sensuality and horror's disturbing mise-en-scène.

Who's getting your vote?

Topman's TKO.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 06:44:00 +0000

I've said it before and I'll say it again - does fashion really need to move so fast? With the relentlessly high turnover of collections it seems that once you've just about managed to achieve some semblance of a grasp over a particular season and various designers' endeavours for said season, it's on to the next, the new, the fresh, with the result that you're entirely overwhelmed unless you're a dedicated stylist, journalist or some other kind of fashion professional who spends a good deal of their time trawling through slideshows on Style.com.

Or, then again, maybe I'm making excuses. Either way, I couldn't relate the Topman boxing style boots I happened upon this morning to the runway in any shape or form. Of course, I instantly recognise this as a consequence of my own ignorance rather than their randomness considering Topman's success derives almost solely from its translation of runway trends to high-street-appropriate price-points.

^ Presuming (be warned that this is conjecture) JPG's collaborated with Nike on these.

^ Topman Boxing Style Boots

A few minutes research later and I find that Jean Paul Gaultier advocated the same theme in his AW10 knock-out (!) collection in which he sent bloodied but beautiful would-be boxers down his Paris catwalk in cashmere, velvet, leather, and thick knits. Oh, and boxing boots, of course. Aha. So this is where Topman has gleaned its inspiration from.

Still, despite its having-been-shown-on-the-runway legitimacy (I know that's not the case for those more taken with the idea of personal style rather than the slavish following of trends but...) I'd certainly be having doubts regarding this style for everyday-wear. Yeah, you can chuck on a pair for a night out with tongue firmly in cheek and you'll garner plenty of lulz but these aren't, I reckon, built to last. Thoughts?

Images from GQ.com and Topman

William Richard Green AW10: Testing the Limits.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 09:07:00 +0000

While menswear may occupy prominent positions in both the Milanese/Florentine and Parisian fashion industries, London has relatively recently awoken to the talent knocking rather loudly on its door. With the launch of MAN and the continued support for designers showcasing their vision via NEWGEN MEN etc., UK menswear designers are now finally enjoying unprecedented attention from press worldwide. No, LFW's menswear day may not bring hoards of buyers to the smaller fashion capital, but magazines and bloggers the world over are entranced.

CSM graduate William Richard Green marks the beginning of the next emerging wave of menswear designers eager to sustain interest in London's menswear-makers. Having bettered his craft at some of the city's more traditional clothiers: bespoke tailors, Henry Poole, and furriers, Hockley, Green's work is that sought after blend of the traditional and trustworthy and boundless imagination (his being instilled during his childhood spent in the countryside of Worcestershire). Rugged rubber and denim are mixed with more playful prints and details to form an aesthetic that's just as interested in the lad the man once was.

I caught up with the designer to pick his brains on inspiration, motivation, and fashion and film.

What motivated you to become a menswear designer?

Mainly, the challenge of having to overcome the restrictions of menswear. In contrast to womenswear, menswear is very much rooted in tradition and the popular notion of what is appropriate for a man to wear and my work is very much based on the tension created in the process of testing these limits. A good example is the rubber duffle coat from the AW10 collection: a classic men's garment but executed in a material evocative of rather different uses.

What inspired your AW10 collection?

The AW10 collection is loosely based on themes found in the movie Escape from LA - all outfits originate from a melange of images drawn from the different characters that populate John Carpenter's dystopian vision.

For example, the eyepatch, the coat shape and the use of gun holster-like harness straps are a direct homage to the protagonist Snake Plissken, while the use of distressed material and cut-outs refers to the predominantly punk-influenced social setting and the use of rubber quotes the wetsuits seen in the film's surfing scenes. Like the film, the collection combines a multitude of references and influences and overall mirrors the cobbled-together mend-and-make-do aesthetic of Carpenter's future humans.

This is especially noticeable in the choice of fabrics for the AW10 collection, which range from commonplace material like wool suiting and denim to more eclectic choices like inside-out rubber or a blanket recycled from a porn movie set, which ended up becoming a chunky bomber jacket.

The AW10 fashion film you produced with Zaiba Jabbar was a great success, is the filmic format something you'd consider in terms of presenting collections in the future?

I think that film is a great format to present fashion - a more controlled and more mood-orientated medium than a catwalk show which at the same time retains the defining sense of fashion as a moving, rather than static, medium. Photoshoots frequently fail to convey this. A film is more native to the way we usually perceive fashion - in motion yet in a setting not as artificial and more at-our-leisure than a show, with the crucial difference of giving designer and director the opportunity to still highlight and emphasize the defining characteristics of the pieces and to convey the collection's underlying themes. Thus, it is highly probable that my future collections will continue to be presented in film!

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Watch Zaiba Jabbar's film for William Richard Green here. Check out his blog here. Keep posted for more on William Richard Green SS11.

SU75: Leather and Liberty.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 10:20:00 +0000

Those of you who know me would probably raise an eyebrow in confusion/utter shock were you to consider me dressing in either: a) vibrant colour, and/or b) vibrant prints. I wouldn't quite go as far as to say my style is monochromatic but I'm no flaming dandy either. So, if an opportunity to work in something that bit more visually stimulating in a not so squint-inducing way presents itself, then chances are it's worth a look.

Parisian brand SU75 was something that I, on first glance, wasn't all too hot on due to the styling of its lookbook which had the potential to be quite eye-catching but ultimately gave a contrived impression. Also, paper-boy caps and jeans aren't exactly the height of Parisian chic, or if they are, then let's reconsider its title of fashion capital. Chiefly, though, and at risk of sounding like a real sartorial puritan, it was due to the prints on the lining.

But closer inspection had me reconsidering the benefits of a classic leather jacket with a 60s-esque twist. Established in 2002, the brand's already managed to land itself in over 200 multi-label stores worldwide which really is no mean feat. Add to that, their collections (they offer women's as well) are crafted from lambs' leather and Liberty cotton. Aside from styling that's just a tad off, this really is a range of wearable and high quality classics.

LCF MA Review: Omi Magazine.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 16:00:00 +0000

Not another bloody magazine. That's generally my unjust and too aggressive response to being informed that yet another publication has been launched in what has to be considered by all accounts a market entirely saturated. Being an avid fan of print publications from the established, Vogue Hommes International, to the somewhat more niche, Fantastic Man, to online mags like the stellar London-based Fashion156, the above reaction is one more racked with anxiety rather than raw hatred.

I love both print and online media but fashion publications have a serious problem. As we all know, the sad truth of publishing anything fashion-related generally depends on hefty investment from advertisers. If this criterion isn't filled, then the mag in question is usually relegated to a v. small space in the market or, worse yet, it finds itself shutting down (and I don't mean in the Rachel Zoe positive sense).

Gay lifestyle magazines are not a world apart either. With so many men reading gay lifestyle magazines taking an avid interested in fashion and so many men's style magazines catering with their often homoerotic editorial to a gay market, the line between the two grows increasingly blurred. Both genres tend to hanker after advertisers' budgets by publishing banal content that's fit between seemingly never-ending pages of eau de toilette, underwear, and sunglasses.

So, to cut short my rambling, a magazine needs to say something to survive. Enter Ravi Kelay, creator of Omi Magazine. Initially conceived as an MA project, Omi is a magazine which seeks to re-define all that connotes 'gay lifestyle magazine'. Featuring portraits of young gay men or those of a non-normative sexuality (and no, they're not oiled, topless, or pictured with a dumbbell in each arm), insightful articles on everything from body image to Johnny Woo, as well as v. impressive editorial that's more fashion-forward than flesh-flaunting, this is exactly what the magazine market needs. Publishers take note.

I caught up with Ravi to ask about it all (and do click through above to see the rest of the content - my shoddy Photoshop skills could only do so much)...

What inspired Omi Magazine?

What inspired OMI magazine was the fact that I went into a newsagents in Soho and noticed that the new edition of Attitude and the Gay Times was out and out of curiosity picked it up after having not read if for years. After having read it I realised how little relevance it had to my life at that point in time and how most of my gay friends were of a similar opinion and how strange it was that there wasn't a magazine out there catering to gay men like myself, who weren't overtly obsessed with the gay scene and still wanted something that would cater to use free of these ideas of a stereotypical representation of homosexuality.

Can you describe the process of creating the magazine?

The process of putting the magazine together was both stressful and incredibly rewarding. There were the contributors that were eager to take part who ultimately flaked out to the unexpected gems that you happened across who contributed some amazing work. Also, I think by collaborating with people the magazine definitely evolved and as a result, I feel, became a much stronger piece of work as a whole. I think with any project of this nature the most important input you can get is other people's take on, and interpretation of, the ethos of what I was trying to achieve.

Will production of Omi continue or was it purely for your MA?

I am very interested in continuing production of my project post my MA and am looking to maybe launch it later this year.

Do you feel fashion perpetuates gay stereotypes or does it work to undo them?

I think it is too simplistic to say that whether fashion perpetuates or counteracts gay stereotypes. There is the whole stereotype about gay men who work in fashion but I think that the days of the queeny fashion gay are long passed and that, by and large, fashion as a whole perpetuates a much more positive representation of gay men in general.

The Life and Times of Mr Classic.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Thu, 08 Jul 2010 08:26:00 +0000

'Etiquette' and 'dress codes' are generally two terms I squirm to hear in the same sentence as 'style'. Fashion at its most fundamental is an accessible form of self expression which enables the wearer to - variously - make a political statement, convey their emotional state be it conflicted or carefree, put on show aspects of their personality that would otherwise remain unseen, etc. The concept of personal style (well, my own at least...) is at odds with sartorial rules and regulations.

^ Jeremy Hackett looking suitably suave.

That said, formalities of dress do have their place in the contemporary world and tradition often heavily informs our respective personal styles. Jeremy Hackett, successful business executive and author of "Mr Classic" - an anecdotal, incisive, critique of men's style, is someone who's not got much blue blood flowing in his veins (as far as I'm aware) but is entirely aware of the importance of preserving the classical nuances of menswear. And did you know he has a blog?

Entitled "Jeremy Hackett - The Mr Classic Blog", this rather basic but still quite brilliant blog informs its reader of everything from the correct manner in which to tie a bow-tie to what summer staples you'll need on holiday. Less interesting are, of course, posts on the seemingly weighty consequences of undoing a shirt button - I mean, really? In typically British fashion Hackett makes this conservative statement:

"My own personal preference is to undo just the top button. I find this more than sufficient in the heat of a British summer [...] Besides, I find that more than one button gives off a faintly 'gigolo-esque' impression"

By those standards I'm the whoriest rent-boy in town wearing a t-shirt.

But, on a more serious note, it's definitely worth your while checking out. Posts like this one on the politics of tie colours make for rather an interesting read.

Basil Racuk: Indulging the iPad.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 07:12:00 +0000

The iPad. State-of-the-art, multi-faceted technological friend or cumbersome, obscenely expensive foe? Despite interviewing a certain accessories designer who's just purchased hers and isn't the least bit regretful, I'm still somewhat unconvinced. iPad cases, however, I feel I can judge more effectively what with fancying myself somewhat of a half-arsed aesthete.

Basil Racuk, the California-based artisan designing for the leather goods label of the same name, has just released a delectable and rather sizeable pouch which accommodates your iPad, iPhone and iNewspaper (LOL jk...Apple hasn't to my knowledge gone quite that far just yet).

Crafted using both machine- and hand-stitching, the case conforms to Racuk's signature rustic chic, minimalist aesthetic that caught my eye months ago.

^ Available in latigo and oil tan qualities and in dark brown, British khaki, vegetable tan, and black. The case retails for $972.

As the man himself has said of the product: "It's so hedonistic and usage-specific...flying in the face of all this 'fiscal responsibility'. It gives me the chills but at the same time I kind of love it.". Too right. But, then again, this isn't your average totem of über wealth but an item much more subtle and which offers a much greater degree of longevity instead.

Find Basil Racuk online, at Leffot, 10 Christopher St, NYC and at Guild in Venice, California from September.

Stitch 2010: Ksubi and Swear.

cillian@male-mode.com (Cillian) — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 07:16:00 +0000

So attending trade-shows featuring seriously desirable footwear when in dire need of a new pair of Summer shoes probably wasn't a genius idea in retrospect. Still, while these may not be arriving on the market for another 6+ months, it's never a bad idea to remember to research before purchase.

Ksubi (formerly known as Tsubi) was not a brand I had expected to see whilst roaming through the Old Billingsgate Market. Now famous for its denim, the Australian fashion label and the connotations it's always had for me didn't exactly correlate with what I saw on offer.

^ The perfect pairing of leather and suede.

^ These had something of Prada about them. Probably the metal detailing reminding of those studded shoes.

^ Oddly attracted to these hiking-esque boots although 'outdoorsy' is not one of the adjectives you'd be using to describe me any way accurately. Love the smokey hue of the style on the left.

^ Blue suede. Honestly, what more do you want? Though, not overly keen on this Chelsea style.

Just a couple of paces on from the treasure trove of Ksubi boots and more was the upcoming SS11 collection from a brand that's always been a firm favourite - Swear.

Having chatted with the v. amiable Brand Director, Jorge, I was informed that the brand's undergone somewhat of a makeover with fresh design talent having been drafted in (Cordwainers grad, Matthew Taylor, and womenswear designer, Simona Citarella) for the design team headed up by new Creative Director, Dominic Webster, who's set to ensure success for the brand having previously worked his magic at H by Hudson. There's also been a subtle name change from the former, more ballsy, "S***R", to the much more easily comprehended (on the international platform), Swear.

But the shoes. Oh, the shoes.

^ Easily the sexiest pair of shoes I've happened upon in months. Can't really think of anything that screams (or should that be jollily whistles?) 'dandy' as loud as these.

^ Not to sound like some over-enthused infomercial but - all the statement-making style of a good shoe with the ventilation of a sandal. Need these now stat.

^ Thinking these will prove popular with Pelayo Diaz lookalikes.

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