Male-Mode

An Understated Affair

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 19:13:00 +0000

Tee and Shorts from H&M.

Shirt from H&M. Trousers from Zara.

Excuse the foot-shot. It came about due to my yearning to convey to you the rather nifty but - evidently - subtle pattern.

Shoes from River Island

So I've finally got 'round to displaying the fruits of my bargain-hunting labour which - as you may most rightfully believe - are somewhat lacklustre. In any case, I feel somewhat that they are. However, I did approach the bygone sale season with ambition to garner some understated pieces for my - currently - shamefully bare wardrobe . This was done on the cheap, naturally, I am still a student - and an unemployed one at that. Nevertheless, the basics that I have acquired will last me for some time, I reckon, considering none of this has been sourced from the shoddy pound-shop that is Topman.

Excuse the more than shoddy photography but I'm still catching on and Ireland - as you may be aware - isn't forthcoming with the requisite bright natural light. And the excuse for my most blatant grimace? Irish weather of course.

Oh, and yes, it is all high-street. Don't shoot me.

This Week in Style

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 20:03:00 +0000

Who'd have thought starting and quitting a job was so time-consuming, infuriating and, well, taxing? Anyway, since I'm now - once again - unemployed for the Summer I find myself with an abundance of time to peruse the recently presented collections and the Men's Style latest 'This Week in Style' feature. The latter is proving amusing indeed.

Men's Style lauded Hartnett for his obvious lack of consideration for the outfit above. I, on the other hand, can't help but scold the lazy individual. He should've just stayed in his PJs. At least that would have shown some style awareness.

Will I even bother? I know he's bound - to an extent - due to the band's image but surely such sartorial puerility is not called for?

I love it. No, not the ensemble or - generally - Diddy's personal style, rather the brilliant white piping. It's just so chic for men right now and yet so few actually sport it...actually, the hideous tack dangling around his neck has just started to detract from any redemption the piping may have offered...

Images from Men's Style

Lanvin SS 09

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Mon, 30 Jun 2008 15:06:00 +0000

Must apologise for the quietness around here but I've been shopping for the first time in months and due to the sales at present thorough, time-consuming bargain-hunting was called for. Anyway, I'll get to the real point of this post - Lanvin menswear-designer Lucas Ossendrijver's recent triumph.

At first glance, it all appeared a somewhat safe affair and I was indifferent but on closer inspection, it's easy to understand the appreciative applause given by the audience following the showing. As Ms. Susie Bubble might say, it's all in the deets and what deets they were. Ossendrijver employed pintucking, pleating and ruching to achieve a collection which was coherent, exciting and yet very much relaxed. The pyjama trend, which has cropped up several times since Dolce and Gabbana showed a while ago, was also evident at Lanvin with pants and shorts voluminous and pleasingly slouchy.

But it wasn't all sack-sized. What, for me, was the highlight of the collection was entirely the opposite of the aforementioned - lean, lean, lean pants with almost sensual ruching.

One of his best yet?

Images from Men's Style

Milan Off-Runway Highlights

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 14:26:00 +0000

So Milan was, overall, adequate I suppose and some collections - McQueen, Sander, Fujiwara - did prove modern menswear is gradually growing out of static understatedness, if a little slowly for me personally. But for now, I want to share some of the Sart's top snaps with those of you whom haven't yet witnessed Milanese men's inherent style.

I just have something for black jeans. And geometrics - no matter how much the high-street do them to death - are almost always appealing, particularly in the simple yet highly impactive form employed here.

Individually, the pieces which make up this look are decidedly naff and some nondescript but aggregated together with a sizeable dose of insouciance it just seems...right.

Schoolboy shorts and socks would typically bring humour to an outfit and yet, here, they lend an unmistakable edginess to the gentleman's appearance. Of course, such a statement could also have been provoked by the top bone structure and considerable height on display.

Move over Thom Browne, it's not about stunted pants, rather cuffs rolled-up.

It takes balls to add an unexpected touch as above, such confidence is to be commended.

Images from The Sartorialist at Men's Style

Alexander McQueen SS 09

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Mon, 23 Jun 2008 06:39:00 +0000

Due to my obligations at The Fashion Spot, where I amateurishly critique the mens shows I'll only deal with a select few here. Day 1 - for me - was somewhat disappointing with many designers attempting new concepts or drawing on inspiration incongruous to their design aesthetic [although Jil Sander was much desirable with the geometric experimentation and colour panelling]. It was, well, flaccid.

Day 2 saw Alexander McQueen unveil his 'über glamour of the seventies'-inspired collection which proved a personal highlight so far. Instead of some of the blatant sheer shirts we've seen so far McQueen offered a somewhat more demure and yet much more masculine alternative. Colour panelling also featured heavily and was enthralling in its unbounded variety.

There were some looks which seemed to nod subtly to Prada FW 0809 but the femininity concerned here was not as overt as with Miuccia's creations. McQueen kept tees and shirts rather fitted but the masculine tailoring of both the pants and the robust jackets with which they were combined lent balance.

In some ways, it seemed a little Raf Simons, no?

Images from Men's Style

Sovereign Beck Beckons...

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 07:15:00 +0000

Ties, ties, ties. I can't help but admit it can be a love-hate relationship. With ties - from my own experience - there are two distinct extremes. On one hand one has the conservative, fat [and no, that is not a tie-body-fascist comment], blandly patterned/coloured group which one finds in such dreary department stores such as Debenhams, Penneys [the Irish Primark] and M&S sported by corporate types and their ilk. These ties bore me to no end.

Then, there's the abundance of skinny supplied by trend-led, hipster stores such as Topman and the like. These are - more often than not - some cheap, brash shade of red or black or perhaps, if you're terribly lucky, a tacky silver, and may be smothered with some typically-'Topman' pattern e.g. stars or in a graphic check. These are ubiquitous.

Now, I don't constantly detest the aforementioned but there are times when I wish we were offered more - and no, vintage tartan abominations don't count. So I was pleasantly surprised by this lot which I feel combine the requisite smartness of shape - being sufficiently broad but not overly so - and inventive, attractive colouring/patterns. They're by Sovereign Beck Ties, based in NY an enterprise led by Ryan and Will.

Images from SovereignBeck.com

Balenciaga Mens FW 08 09

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 09:02:00 +0000

Although I've always admired, commended and generally, been astounded by Nicolas Ghesquière's wonders worked with the womenswear of Balenciaga, I've never wholly been sold on his menswear endeavours. Too often the too-small, underwhelming collections appear immature as if the original concept had not been developed entirely - if there had been any concept whatsoever.

Not so with Ghesquière's FW 0809 triumph in which we find basics beautifully re-worked and, finally, proportion-play of a standard similar to that displayed through his womenswear. It isn't - yet - ground-breaking either but most definitely further proof that Ghesquière is devoting the requisite attention this previously neglected facet of the awesome house.

Personal favourites include the metallic suit [a ringer for a Bruno Pieters' piece a few seasons back..hmm] and that voluminous black bomber(?) which contrasts so dramatically with the 'sewn-on' silhouette of the pants.

Images from TFS - Screencapped from Balenciaga.com

Back in Time for SS 09

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Sun, 15 Jun 2008 08:05:00 +0000

So, infuriating exams have been scuppered and I've finally rediscovered this phenomenon - life. And just in time too, for the SS 09 shows [see below] and although I've listed just the menswear shows, I'd like to clarify that from now on I'll be giving my - often unfounded, often critical, often bizarre and well, male - opinion on womenswear and a host of other areas pertinent to style, art etc. due to both my increased interest in these fields and the bloody lack of material to natter on about regarding menswear!

Hopefully this lot will provide something to spew words about...

Milan

Saturday, 21 June

10:00 GAETANO NAVARRA
11:00 C.P. COMPANY
12:00 COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME
14:30 JIL SANDER
15:30 MISSONI
16:15 BURBERRY PRORSUM
17:00 CARLO PIGNATELLI OUTSIDE
17:45 LES HOMMES HOMME
18:30 VERSACE
19:30 EVISU
20:30 DENIS SIMACHEV

Sunday, 22 June

09:00 BOTTEGA VENETA
10:00 FRANKIE MORELLO
11:00 GIANFRANCO FERRE’
12:00 ROBERTO CAVALLI
13:00 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
14:00 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
14:45 ANTONIO MARRAS
15:30 EMPORIO ARMANI
16:15 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
17:00 NEIL BARRETT
18:00 HAUTE
19:00 PRADA

Monday, 23 June

10:00 ENRICO COVERI
11:00 BIAGIOTTI
12:00 GUCCI
13:30 DIRK BIKKEMBERGS
14:30 JOHN RICHMOND
15:30 MOSCHINO
16:30 KRIZIA UOMO
17:30 ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA
18:30 M+F GIRBAUD
19:30 GIULIANO FUJIWARA
20:30 ANDREW MACKENZIE

Tuesday, 24 June

09:00 MARNI
10:00 ICEBERG
11:00 DSQUARED2
12:00 FENDI
12:45 ETRO
13:45 CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
15:30 GIORGIO ARMANI
16:30 GIORGIO ARMANI
17:30 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
18:30 BELSTAFF
19:30 GAZZARRINI
20:30 BYBLOS

Paris

Thursday, 26 June

U-NI-TY
10.30 am
Palais Brongniart - Salon d'honneur du Tranoi - Place de la Bourse - Paris 2e
KILGOUR
11.30 am
BETC - 85/87 rue de faubourg Saint-Martin - Paris 10e
GASPARD YURKIEVICH
12.30 pm
Maison des Métallos
JULIUS
1.30 pm
Maison des Métallos - 94 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud - Paris 11e
LOUIS VUITTON
2.30 pm
See invitation
NUMBER (N)INE
4.00 pm
Centre Universitaire des Saints-Pères - 45 rue des Saints-Pères - Paris 6e
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
5.00 pm
325 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
6.00 pm
155 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e
VÉRONIQUE BRANQUINHO
7.00 pm
Garage Turenne - 66 rue de Turenne - Paris 3e
DRIES VAN NOTEN
8.00 pm
To be confirmed
HENRIK VIBSKOV
9.00 pm
To be confirmed

Friday, 27 June

JUNYA WATANABE MAN
10.00 am
See invitation
BLAAK HOMME
11.00 am
Maison des Métallos - 94 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud - Paris 11e
THIERRY MUGLER
noon
Lycée Turgot - 69 rue de Turbigo - Paris 3e
KRIS VAN ASSCHE
1.00 pm
Université Jussieu - 4 place Jussieu - Paris 5e
KIMINORI MORI****A
2.00 pm
La Maison des Métallos / salle Blanche
KENZO
3.00 pm
Palais Omnisports de Paris Bercy - salle Marcel Cerdan - 8 boulevard de Bercy - Paris 12e
COMME DES GARCONS HOMME PLUS
4.00 pm
See invitation
CERRUTI
5.00 pm
See invitation
GIVENCHY
6.00 pm
Musée Bourdelle - 18 rue Antoine Bourdelle -Paris 15e
ROMAIN KREMER
7.00 pm
Garage Turenne - 66 rue de Turenne - Paris 3e
JOHN GALLIANO
8.30 pm
S-Kart - 56/58 avenue du Président Wilson - La Plaine Saint-Denis

Saturday, 28 June

JEROEN VAN TUYL
10.00 am
To be confirmed
MIHARAYASUHIRO
11.00 am
Weber Metaux - 66 rue de Turenne - Paris 3e
KAZUYUKI KUMAGAI / ATTACHMENT
noon
Parking Capus Bastille
TILLMAN LAUTERBACH
1.00 pm
Palais Brongniart - Salon d'honneur du Tranoi - Place de la Bourse - Paris 2e
ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
2.00 pm
École de Médecine
ARMAND BASI
3.00 pm
Garage Turenne - 66 rue de Turenne - Paris 3e
SMALTO
4.00 pm
See invitation
DAMIR DOMA
5.00 pm
Ambassade de Roumanie - 123 rue Saint-Dominique - Paris 7e
EMANUEL UNGARO
6.00 pm
Lycée Stanislas - 6 rue du Montparnasse - Paris 6e
PETAR PETROV
7.00 pm
To be confirmed
HERMÈS
8.00 pm
Couvent des Cordeliers - 15 rue de l'Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e
RAF SIMONS
9.00 pm
To be confirmed

Sunday, 29 June

ANTONIO MIRO
10.00 am
Hôtel Saint-James & Albany - 6 rue du 29 Juillet - Paris 1er
LANVIN
11.00 am
See invitation
BERNHARD WILLHELM
noon
Palais Brongniart - Salon d'honneur du Tranoi - Place de la Bourse - Paris 2e
WINTLE
1.00 pm
Université Pierre & Marie Curie - 21 rue de l'Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e
DIOR
2.00 pm
See invitation
MASATOMO
3.00 pm
Hôtel Meurice - 228 rue de Rivoli - Paris 1er
JUUN J
4.00 pm
Garage Turenne - 66 rue de Turenne - Paris 3e
PAUL SMITH
5.00 pm
Carrousel du Louvre - salle Lenôtre - 99 rue de Rivoli - Paris 1er
WOOYOUNGMI
6.00 pm
Carrousel du Louvre - salle Soufflot - 99 rue de Rivoli - Paris 1er
AGNÈS B.
7.00 pm
17 rue Dieu - Paris 10e

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Sun, 13 Apr 2008 17:39:00 +0000

Alas, it seems final exams have conquered all. It pains me greatly to tell you all no new posts should be expected 'til mid-June. However, I'll strive to get one in now and then if time constraints aren't too hair-raising.

Bis bald!

Image from TFS

Damien does Denim while Tom turns south of Tokyo

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Wed, 02 Apr 2008 20:42:00 +0000

It appears art and fashion have embraced yet again, this time 'round it's denim and doodles, Warhol doodles to be precise. That may have seemed somewhat derisive but I assure you I'm anything but, regarding the Warhol Factory X Levis X Damien Hirst collaboration. Having viewed Youtube footage of the runway show I am officially, excited. Men's Style reports on a pop-up store.

I do hope we'll get some fetching poultry-underwear hybrid!

Derisive? Just a tad...

While Hirst douses 501s in buckets of luminous paint Tom Ford instigates his latest campaign, more a sartorial assault, this time on the Japanese market. His first target is Osaka where he has just opened a fully-furnished, 1,300 square-foot shop within the Hankyu Men's Store.

“They gave us the very best position in the store, moving other brands for us. We could not say no. And the business has been phenomenal for Tom Ford since the January opening,” Mr. Ford declared, no doubt with a knowing smirk, as he plotted his next tailor-terrorist step...

Derisive? Unbelievably, and I actually like Tom Ford.

Images from ArtVehicle and TomFord.nl

Acne Studio - hidden door panels and oversized knobs.

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Sat, 29 Mar 2008 10:23:00 +0000

The spanking new Acne Studio in NYC's Soho has been generating considerable chat over the past week and rightly so, I feel, when I pore over these delectable images so representative of the Swedish brand's Scandinavian quiet cool. The store or, if you would rather 'studio', now occupies the place where another vein of quiet cool, albeit of a more dark and stern nature, once resided, that of Plokhov's Cloak.

I include Q+A with creative director Jonny Johannsson courtesy of Refinery29...

How long has this store been in the works?
Forever, I think. It's more or less one of the first or second things that you think of [as a designer].

When you imagined the "perfect New York store," what came to mind?
For me personally, it has a lot to do with having a really great relationship with Opening Ceremony, that's why it's here in this space right now. And also, I've always been drawn to this area of New York. When I used to come here when I was young, I'd always go to Canal Street to pick up ugly things!

Is this shop similar to your others?
Every store is different. They're all kind of individual, but they're also united by this feeling of being unfinished, a little bit of a work in progress, portraying an art-photo studio kind of feel. But for all our stores, our colors are light and powdery, and Andreas and I do the furniture design together. Our brand is a platform for doing lots of different things.

Any chance you'll eventually be selling your own furnishings and objects in the shop?
Yes, it's a great possibility.

Can you point out a few details you're particularly pleased with?

These knobs [on the wall], are based on typical Swedish doorknobs, oversized on purpose and made by a well-known Swedish glass designer who is also a friend of mine, Ingere Rädmam. When we sit down and have coffee, she's always saying things like, 'Jonny why do you always decorate the front of the woman and not the back?' She's just a really interesting person, and to me that's inspiring.

Acne Studio can be found at 10 Greene Street, NYC.

Images from Refinery29[by Piera Gelardi] and Men's Style

VMAN.com and FORD Model Search 2008

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Thu, 27 Mar 2008 08:12:00 +0000

For all the budding Seans, Ryans and Evandros out there...

More info HERE.

Images from Vman

Trustfund Triumvirate

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 20:58:00 +0000

Ok, so the topic at hand here may not be the most menswear-relevant but having spent several hours during the past few days enthralled in the earlier episodes of Gossip Girl, I just have to. The exceedingly popular series, which centres on the antics and troubles of NYC Upper East Side's school-going elite is quite pleasurable to watch, especially considering its wealth(no pun intended) of sartorial excellence and characters epitomising innate NY class. Never have the male denomination of a TV series been so obsessed with dress and, I must admit, I love it.

Simply smart with a subtle, romantic flourish on the tie.

That NY casual cool demonstrated immaculately.

Even their school attire is covetable.

Or is it just their covetable genes that do the trick? What do you reckon?

Images from Gossip Girl Insider

VMAN, Vogue Hommes and a refreshed L'Uomo Vogue

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 20:49:00 +0000

Just a brief update on the latest publications in an attempt to keep you all informed...and I call myself a blogger...

Vogue Hommes International - Josh Beech by Hedi Slimane

An entire issue devoted to all things erotique, don't say you're not drooling to get your hands on a copy, phwoar!

VMAN - Ashton Kutcher by Mario Testino

Disappointing, disappointing oh and painfully average.

-UDATE-

L'Uomo Vogue March - Louis Garrel by Bruce Weber

Redemption. It's a beautiful thing, finally...

Images from TFS

CFDA Nominees 2008

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Thu, 13 Mar 2008 09:01:00 +0000

Thom Browne

It's that time of year again, yes the nominations for the 2008 CFDA Awards have been released and I, for one, am pleased with the array in the main Menswear category.

Two of the top T(h)oms in the industry, Tom Ford and Thom Browne are both named, accompanied by one Michael Bastian, he of the fondness for fusion of NY casual class, British quirk and Tokyo kitsch. I find it quite difficult to choose a definitive deserver but instinctively approach Thom Browne. Such 'circus-freak' theatricality, if at times contrived, is to be commended when achieved in menswear. Anyway, Ralph Lauren won the award twice at least and that was hardly deserving...

The nominees for the somewhat less prestigious award - as is often the case - showcase oodles more talent. Patrik Ervell, Tim Hamilton and Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders have all been nominated for the Swarovski Award for Menswear. My pick? Again, it's an immensely tough call but the crisp yet meltingly attractive hue of gold shown by Ervell has me hooked.

Your nominations?

Patrik Ervell

Tim Hamilton

Band of Outsiders

France beckons! Unfortunately, no more posts 'til Monday!

Images from Men's Style

Denim Dispatches

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Fri, 07 Mar 2008 21:38:00 +0000

Someone's fetching Cheap Monday's

These are good days for denim. High-street giant H&M has just bought out Fabric Scandinavien which owns Cheap Monday - the much-adored casual label - and plans to expand the brand and generally, broaden its horizons. Sounds sincere but considering the crux of business is profit, I'm not so sure. Still, more Cheap Monday can only be good. Note that the big-time retailer will not alter Cheap Monday's designs and doesn't plan to sell the wares in H&M stores.

Acne Gentleman's Jeans

Additionally, one of my favourite magazine editors has just tried his hand at denim design. Yes, the delightfully direct, butt-loving Gert Jonkers of Fantastic Man and BUTT was consulted for the production of Acne's latest line - Gentleman's Jeans. Fantastic Man's art director, Jop van Bennekom, also chipped in and the results, I can say, at least look great, I'm ignorant regarding the fit unfortunately. Try the creased jeans for yourself at Colette and Acne.

UPDATE: "Let it hang!" - Victoria Beckham's detestation of skinny jeans on men leads to mens denim under the dVb label. More here.

Images from Slamxhype and Picsaweb

Fujiwanna

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Sat, 01 Mar 2008 12:50:00 +0000

Apologies for the serious lack of postage these past few days, mock exams have proved themselves tiresome and taxing, however-and thankfully, finite.

As often happens with myself and brand names, I was vaguely familiar with guilianoFujiwara but could not recall any trademarks or remember any looks from recent seasons, or any seasons whatsoever for that matter. My attention has been drawn to the Japanese-headed, Milan-based menswear brand thanks to a savvy Male-Mode reader who was kind enough to alert me.

A few brief moments browsing the lush site leads to speedy satiation of my daily requirement of flash-fash sites. The enveloping black, crisp white and shots of scarlet red remind me I need to make browsing of designers' sites more regular.

And the clothes. Well, the FW 0809 collection boasts structurally austere pieces in deep blacks amongst those in brightest citrus orange. Accessories are definitely variegated and contrast beautifully; squatty ties, elongated slim belts and a compact sports bag reminiscent of space-bound capsules.

Masataka Matsumura, creative director, has also ingeniously included such a wide variety of textures and fabrics, chinchilla to sheepskin, alpaca to Plexiglas. What was intended as an artist's exploration of the origins of "hip-hop" has yielded more than I had anticipated.

Images from ModaOnline

Oscars 08

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Mon, 25 Feb 2008 18:51:00 +0000

I know, you needn't remind me I've previously sworn myself against the many evils of today's celebrity culture, and that I've railed against the large aggregate of celebrity-focused style-deficient blogs out there. I maintain whatever view I've expressed but I deem the Oscars an exception, don't you?

Although, having said that, from what I've seen it was a decidedly average affair with the menswear actually topping the womenswear. That rather speaks volumes wouldn't you agree? Anyway, the highlights for me...or if you would prefer something a little more apt and buckets more cheesy, the nominees are...

Firstly, let's all agree she's a bit of a state. As for Dan the Man, I felt the very subtle piping worked wonders. He seems to have effectively grasped the basic concept of menswear, less is most definitely more and minute alterations and embellishments render the biggest impact.

Probably my pick for the win. One doesn't happen upon 'buttoned-up' too often, any such instance should be enjoyed, and the source of this enjoyment, admired. In this case, the immense Javier Bardem.

Again, another illustrative example of the Oscar women's collective folly this year. Depp is consistently well turned-out, however, am I sensing an inkling of conservativeness eating away at his trademark quirk?

And your Oscar goes to?

Images from Men's Style

Miu Miu No More

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Sat, 23 Feb 2008 19:59:00 +0000

It truly was good while it lasted, albeit haphazardly good. Yes, Ms. Miuccia Prada wasn't - perhaps - perpetually on form apropos of her menswear outturn but it was, I've always maintained, a welcome event during menswear showings in Milan. Alas, no more, Prada Group have eschewed the branch due to its low profitability. It does pain me while I pore over images of Miu Miu womenswear and enjoy that signature insouciant kookiness, that some of the ingenuity was lost in translation from womens to mens. However, I for one will sadly miss it. With that, I present a few personal highlights.

Sadly missed or good riddance?

Images from Men's Style

QED's Story of a Mistake

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 19:24:00 +0000

Just couldn't help sharing this wonderful short by the incomprehensibly talented folk of QED. Their menswear - I assume - features in all its Berliner[was kann ich sagen? it's an obsession] geometric glory. Be sure to view and revel in the enjoyable randomness and far-fetched philosophy of it all.

Video from QED's Iqons page

MAN FW 0809

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Fri, 15 Feb 2008 23:27:00 +0000

No pix as of yet, unfortunately, but footage of the collections has been released. It really does remain to be seen what's on offer here but from a quick glance at below-par quality Youtube vids I have managed to decipher big, black and bounteous from James Long, somewhat Berliner, draped and loose pieces from Hans Christian Madsen and looks from Topman Design proving the the retailer isn't all about flash-in-the-pan trends.

James Long

Hans Christian Madsen

Topman Design

More info here.

Comme des Garçons in Speedo waters.

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 08:43:00 +0000

I'm in no way a sports fanatic or, well, even an enthusiast, but swimming and antics involving water do interest me to a greater extent so news of Rei Kawakubo's latest collaboration with Speedo was welcome.

Why the hell do I care since I'm not a professional swimmer? - I hear you ask, simply because the CdG FS LZR Racer looks incredible in all its superhero, second-skin-tight glory. And it's not just a looker, there's a decent concept too. Kawakubo - who has collaborated for the past three years - has said she drew inspiration from the Japanese character Kokuro - by the calligrapher Inoue Yu-ichi - which roughly translates as 'heart, mind and spirit' or in these circumstances, "I'm in it to win".

The suit which possesses the uncanny ability to reduce muscle vibration and fatigue will be manufactured in three silhouettes for each gender, including a full-body suit with no arms, a knee-length full-body suit and a full-body suit with an open back.

Images from WWD and Speedo

Gofficism

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Sat, 09 Feb 2008 09:19:00 +0000

Just last week I made my monthly excursion to the cinema, our cinema complete with becomingly sticky floor, outrageously overpriced popcorn and tatty seats, it was, as I had left it, only worse now. But I didn't mind particularly as the film started promptly once I had bum on seat, as it were.

And what a film it was. "Sweeney Todd" is definitely old hat for a lot of you considering varying release dates but I just couldn't ignore the opportunity to plug Burton's masterful eye and the marvellous produce of his insatiable hunger for visual beauty. I'm not donning film critic boots here but am more concerned with the Gothic costume we all know and love which was so astoundingly enrapturing in Burton's interpretation of the hit musical. Although I fear Costume Designer Colleen Atwood's somewhat too stage-y creations are approaching over-exposure in Burton's continuous string of dark and quirk-fest offerings I could appreciate those featured in Todd.

Having considered the below, who couldn't?

Gothicism is a notable trait of Burton's, however, it's not familiar territory for menswear designer Robert Geller who's FW 08 09 collection proved he too could meddle in the dark arts. And meddle he did, quite well, might I add. What was predominantly macabre militarism was shot through with dandyism of the undead variety and some bikers akin to bats out of hell. Maybe I was too liberal with the hyperbole there, it wasn't quite that extravagant but still there was a distinct tinge of gloom. The sole respite was the infrequent appearance of some sickly shade of "sulphur" which, frankly, I could have done without.

Still, hats off to the Goffs.

Images from Men's Style and Variety.com

Oomph from Ervell

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Wed, 06 Feb 2008 22:06:00 +0000

There is a common misconception a great many people possess, that the preferred aesthetic of many an NY-showing designer is nondescript, puritan-plain neutrality. And who am I to deem them wrong? Fashion is after all, subjective. I really don't think its disputable, though, that this acute reservedness was almost rife in Patrik Ervell's FW 0809 collection.

Save for one detail, one glorious, luxuriant detail - gold. Yes, gold was what saved - for me - Patrik Ervell's collection, well not saved it from condemnation as such, more saved it from serving as an embodiment of that notion that menswear dictates conservativeness and abstention. It was, instead, a symbol of visual splendour.

A note on the title. If "oomph" is good enough for Tim Blanks, "oomph" is sufficient for me.

Images from Men's Style

F.B.A. 2008

noreply@blogger.com (Dustcakeboy) — Sun, 03 Feb 2008 09:37:00 +0000

FBA 2008 - Voting has Begun!

Another year, more quality fashion/style blogging. Don't let the lack of testosterone on the nominees list get you down...

Get voting!
Much luck to everyone!