Male-Mode.com

Brand Watch SS12: O' Keeffe.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 09:01:00 +0000

It's been so long since I've actually elected to wear a pair of shoes over boots that I've almost forgotten they exist. Anglo-Italian brand O' Keeffe seems, however, to be winning me back with unprecedented authority. On hearing about the label's inception (through friend, general brand mastermind and boutique co-owner MQ, as far as I can recall...), I've been emailing back and forth with those behind the brand, pestering them for updates like a needy, brogue-less boyfriend...

Just this week, they've launched on Mr Porter and, crucially, I've disovered the former Male Muse-featured and perpetually impeccable bad-ass daddy of fashion, Nick Wooster, is also a devotee. Naturally, this is reason enough for us all to buy out the stock entirely.

The concept behind O' Keeffe should also be near and dear to the hearts of many of this blog's readers, with the Irish brogue at the focal point of its appeal. Inspired by the shoe originally worn by bog-workers (punctured with holes to allow for drainage ), O' Keeffe sets out to re-invent the less celebrated well-worn/hand-me-down version of the brogue with their debut collection.

Sticklers for historical accuracy, the other aspects of the brogue's evolution (landed gentry's adoption of the peat-workers' footwear choices) don't go ignored by O' Keeffe, with more sophisticated, less previously-loved brogues in the pristine condition we're accustomed to also forming part of their first offering.

For many of you, these probably aren't the most modestly priced shoes but the artisanal Italian craftsmanship and limited availability are two factors which justify the slightly higher than average prices. Also, did I mention Nick Wooster wears them...?

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O' Keeffe shoes are available at Mr Porter

To 2012: Oisin Byrne.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Tue, 10 Jan 2012 16:41:00 +0000

Alongside surviving another year in academia, moving to live in Berlin, blogging, discovering foie gras and Alan Hollinghurst, 2011 brought with it several new acquaintances - both professional and personal - some of whom have become fond friends. I've known Dublin-based artist Oisin Byrne a while now but it's only quite recently I've had the enlightening experience of discovering the art behind the man. It does really seem a bit contrived writing an introduction so formal for a friend, but then great talent demands an opener at least a little emphatic.

^ Inhaus

Without further ado, here's how 2012 is shaping up for him...

My work has been incorporating architecture both modernist and classical, so I am exploring working with architects and buildings in different ways. In particular, I am interested in beginning to collaborate in Ireland on a structure with my father, who is an architect. I am captivated by artworks which involve familial collaboration - like Venturi's "Mother's House" - or romantic collaboration, like in Diaghelev and Nijinsky's output. As much as I admire professionalism, I become captivated by projects that are unashamedly polluted by personal foibles and predilections. Polluted - dare I say it - by love.

On a more mundane note, I resolve to regulate my time online and on my smartphone - to spend more time in the phenomenal world.

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See more of Oisin's work here and delve a little deeper here.

To 2012: Richard Kilroy.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 14:42:00 +0000

Originally the focal point of fashion publications, then relegated to a back-seat position with the favouring of photography, fashion illustration is enjoying a revival within the industry and it's trailblazers like Richard Kilroy on the crest of the wave. Here's what he's planning for this year...

2011 has been such a monumental year for my personal life and career. A continuation of this would be my main aim for 2012. More issues of my fanzine Decoy and working with more incredible talents, and developing my own style of work with more commissions, collaborations and personal briefs. And hot models.

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Discover Decoy here, here and here and see more of Richard's work here.

To 2012: Dean McDaid.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 18:40:00 +0000

If there was one thing that characterised the year 2011 for the youth of Ireland, it was probably considering/discussing/actually emigrating to a place more forthcoming with its economic opportunities. Although the majority of fashion types have almost always had to re-locate to a fashion capital in order to get that first foot on the career conveyor belt, the past twelve months saw legions of Irish from all professional and academic backgrounds make like it was 1845 and get the hell out of here to wherever the going was good.

Still, some stayed and are to be commended for doing so. Emma, Mel and Dean of Dublin's now renowned vintage haunt 9 Crow St. are just some of the entrepreneurial role models bucking the brain-drain trend.

For the second installment of To 2012, Dean shares what he plans for the coming year...

This year I would like to raise the bar for myself with my work ethic. I work hard but I know I could work harder and get way more done. I really want to do more collaborations in the new year. I have a passion for every part of fashion and art and would like to become involved in any way, so I am definitely going to keep my eyes and ears open for new opportunities.

I would like to moan much less - I feel there may be a line with moaning and I have definitely crossed it. Maybe I could also try to not over-spend, as I plan on moving to New York for the summer so I really need to save every little bit I can! I would like to think I could stop smoking, that's surely not going to happen though...

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For 2011's review of 9 Crow St., see here. Connect with the store on Facebook, follow their blog here and find the store at 9 Crow St., Dublin 2.

To 2012: Stuart Sandford.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Tue, 03 Jan 2012 12:36:00 +0000

Go on, don't be shy, hands up if you're only now beginning to emerge from your post-NYE deep and dark hangover gloom. Wherever you were, whatever you did, I hope you rang in the new year with aplomb and I wish you all the very best for the months to come.

As, I suppose, a way of encouraging us all to at least strive to achieve our aims in 2012, this week sees the blog play host to some of fashion and art's most inspiring men and their plans for 2012.

First up - artist Stuart Sandford, whose work I first came across through prolific London-based photographer Jeff Hahn. Sandford's oeuvre is chiefly gender-focused, interrogating contemporary attitudes towards masculinity and representations of the male body (be it in the throes of passion, at rest, or deep in contemplation). Having worked principally in photography in the past, Sandford turns his hand to a radically new form of opening up the forum for discussion of men today in his new project for 2012: Stuart Sandford Bodybuilding.

For the new year I'm going to be hitting the gym, a lot. In fact, I'm working on a year long project whereby I'm transforming my body from an artist to an athlete. It's an extension of my existing work regarding the male form but it's also a critique of the current state of arts funding in the UK, specifically relating to the massive divergence of Arts Council and lottery funding to the upcoming London Olympics. It's gonna be a tough but, hopefully, enjoyable year.

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See more of Stuart Sandford's work here and keep up to date with Bodybuilding here.

Good luck Stuart!

OWN's Tom Ford: Visionary?

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 16:56:00 +0000

Just like chips, works of erotic fiction and gin martinis, good fashion documentaries are hard to come by. We've seen a spate of documentaries centring on the industry, its designers, editors and it-figures emerge since the early 90s, with many garnering positive critical appraisals and awards. Although many cinephiles will deem the fashion documentary as being nothing more than a vacuous and formulaic TV fixture, several feature films documenting the rising and falling hemlines of fashion have gone some way in confounding such claims.

That said, OWN's (that's TV legend Oprah Winfrey's network) documentary on fashion demi-god Tom Ford as part of its Visionaries series leaves a good deal to be desired. Of course, being an OWN production it's going to be vomit-inducingly excessive and make full use of the melodramatic techniques at work in Oprah's own TV chat show, it's still no easier to stomach despite expecting the worst. The 'poignant' piano music and overuse of Oprah-ian (?) rhetoric of relentless positivity and inspiration is unremitting and gives the film the feel of a life-coaching session.

It is, however, informative, granting access to Ford's v. hushed, yet much talked-about salon show from September 2010 (which marked his eagerly awaited return to womenswear), the inner workings of his London-based design studio, his general design process and, best of all, shots of Julianne Moore vamping outrageously on a runway. Also, while it's unmissable that Ford adores the sound of his own voice, it's difficult to deny his charm and generally engaging story of a boy who came from Texas and shot to the upper echelons of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent.

I could go on but I'm still feeling festive and will spare you all pedantic observations, encouraging you to watch and review yourselves instead.

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Do feel free to leave your thoughts on this below - I'd be eager to hear what you think of what I consider to be a worthwhile, yet unforgivably queasy-making film.

Noël en France.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Wed, 28 Dec 2011 11:59:00 +0000

For those of you who were following the 5 Days of Christmas, I apologise; instead of advocating another potential purchase, I spent my Christmas Eve rambling around the bones of an old French townhouse, guzzling bière de Noël and generally being a sub-par blogger...

As an appeasement I offer a photo-diary of sorts including shots of what - come July 2012 - is to be my Nord-Pas-de-Calais-based sister's new home. It's semi-ruinous at the moment but still undeniably impressive, equipped with at least five bedrooms, a host of marble fireplaces, three floors, two gardens and a two-floored outhouse. For those of you vaguely familiar with French geography, you'll know the sleepy town of Fruges is a (very) far cry from the chic distinction of Paris so don't go getting too jealous. Still, provincialism only slightly mars the brilliance of property like this peanuts...

The town itself...

And the house...

^ Urs & I

^ We counted at least five layers of wallpaper plastered onto this wall, one was crafted from newspaper cuttings circa late 19th century.

^ This junk-room reminded me of The Others a bit...

^ Back garden the first...

^ And back garden the second...

^ The excitement for house-sitting grows...

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If this isn't the year's oddest Christmas-themed post, I really don't know what is. Love to you all and keep tuned for a special New Year's series from some of Male-Mode.com's favourite men.

5 Days of Christmas: No. 3 & 4.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 13:20:00 +0000

Have been getting a little too into the festive spirit of late and failed to provide you with dangerously last minute gift suggestion No. 3 yesterday, so it's a double dose this time 'round courtesy of none other than Dublin's beloved independent boutique, Indigo & Cloth.

No. 3 is the below-pictured result of Indigo & Cloth's recent collaboration with Ardara, Co. Donegal-based tweed-makers Molloy & Sons. This rug is the first in a series of items specially produced by the father and son partnership of Shaun & Kieran Molloy for the store. According to store-owner Garrett Pitcher, there's also a series of tailored tweed jackets available for sale but these are, understandably, v. limited so be speedy if you're feeling needy.

^ Indigo & Cloth x Molloy & Sons tweed rug; see Nowness.com's short-doc (brilliantly shot by Jamie & Keith) on the Molloys' heritage and dedication to their craft here.

This series' penultimate recommendation is another offering from Indigo & Cloth, this time less woolly, more whiskey. The South William St. store blazes ahead of its competitors via a collaboration with another Irish brand, Co. Louth-based Kilbeggan Whiskey. In association with creative direction duo Jamie & Keith (Make It Work), Indigo & Cloth produces a limited edition bottle-design for the age-old distillery. More on No. 4 - sure to get you in a very merry spirit - below...

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Find all these products in-store at Indigo & Cloth, Basement of 27 South William St, Dublin 2.

See more from Make It Work's Jamie and Keith here.

Learn about the respective histories of Irish brands Molloy & Sons and Kilbeggan Whiskey.

5 Days of Christmas: No. 2.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 19:50:00 +0000

Reports of double-digit temperatures for Christmas Day have me re-considering quintessential festive fashion. Light exercise of walking from one shop to another in a snooded and gloved state had me sweating in a matter of seconds today and if this continues it'll soon be time to whip out a pair of the below...

^ Mykita x Moncler Achille sunglasses; marketed primarily at skiers, these aren't only perfect for those intent on the slopes, but also for those of us blinded by Winter's abnormally low-sitting sun. Two big-wig brands acclaimed for their craftsmanship combine to make something quite remarkable and ideal for gifting.

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Find them here at Mykita's online store, and do say happy birthday while you're there - Mykita's just turned 8!

5 Days of Christmas: No. 1.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 09:51:00 +0000

If it's not blankets of snow, it's '12 Days of Christmas' offers emails - there's inevitably something to be waded through at this time of year. Granted retailers have to break-even too, but isn't a whole twelve days a little excessive in this current economic gloom? Also, given that I've been blessed with the attention span of a goldfish when it comes to these things, I'm invariably bored out of my tree at about the seventh day.

So, let's cut corners where we can - here's the first of my 5 Days of Christmas; gifts to inspire, excite and delight your family, friends, bits-on-the-side, important contacts and witnesses of your most woeful embarrassments in need of appeasement...

^ Nike ACG Manoa Outdoor Boots - this is the optimal fusion of sportswear practicality, versatility (black teams well with everything) and inky black chic. Also, considering the brand's signature is reasonably subtly rendered here, you might even be able to deceive others into thinking these are Rick Owens or from some obscure collaboration Tim Hamilton did with who knows what brand.

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Find these - currently on sale - at ASOS.com

River Island SS 2012: Sailors On Acid.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Sat, 17 Dec 2011 18:45:00 +0000

No more attempting (definitely in vain...) to define cinematics dystopias. No more concealing cheeky, sneaky naps in the library. No more sitting through seminars tight-lipped and nodding as if to convince everyone you've seen the film when, really, you're not even sure what the name of it was...

The holidays are finally here and aside from some very much on-the-long-finger dissertation research, it's gearing up to be good. To ring in the season, I braced the cold last Thursday to check out the River Island SS12 press day, which left me in a bit of a time-warp (feeling up acid-wash jeans and neon tees during the icy depths of December - bizarre) but had me immediately planning a list of potential purchases...

This season sees the high-street favourite take note from the likes of Italian fashion establishment Versace and London-based Christopher Kane; think fluorescence, cut-outs, acid-wash and bleached denim, snug fits and more than your RDA of Vitamin neon. Add to that, re-interpretations of the Fisherman jacket and naval-inspired pieces and it's all a bit 'A Sailor's Summertime Acid Trip' which I - naturally - am in no way averse to.

Expect to see the collection trickling into stores mid-January of next year, and - take it from me - start saving now. You may have associated this brand with tacky looks plastered all over the pages of a lads' mag previously, but River Island is set to take us all by storm.

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Shop River Island online, and find your nearest store, here.

Q+A: Garvan De Bruir.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Wed, 14 Dec 2011 16:38:00 +0000

Project 51, one of the most recent additions to Dublin's shopping haven of South William St., combines the traditional designer showroom feel with a relaxed retail environment. There's a wealth of work from Irish designers for women, but - oddly, and for once, - I think the guys have secured the best deal with designs from (Made For You By) Arms, Caoimhe Keane and Garvan de Bruir collating to produce a shopping experience most definitely worth a Christmas-shopping visit.

It was whilst oogling the buttery leathers of Irish luggage and accessories brand De Bruir, that I knew I had to delve a little deeper. And here - the results...

What is De Bruir?

GdB: De Bruir is my design studio in Kildare town, and the brand name of the collection of

handmade leather luggage and accessories that I produce.

As well as leather luggage, the De Bruir studio is involved in fine furniture-making,

specialising in the use of a variety of materials: decorative timbers, cast metals and fine

leathers.

MM: You have experience working as a craftsman with wood, metal and leather. What is your

professional background?

GdB: My formal training includes a BA Hons in Furniture Design & Craftsmanship, and an MA in

Furniture Design & Technology, both earned at Buckinghamshire Chilterns University College.

I really enjoyed the design school style of the college as our general training covered

traditional and contemporary upholstery (in fabrics and leathers) and metalwork (casting,

forging, welding etc.) as well as specialising in fine cabinet-tmaking.

As the cabinet workshops were located alongside silversmithing, glass-blowing, plastics and

ceramics workshops, it fostered a great appreciation for all material technologies and the

transferable nature of craft skills as well as a variety of design influences.

Following my BA, my most influential training period was that spent as a cabinet-maker

with Philip Koomen Furniture in Henley, Oxfordshire.

The work-shop was in an old oak-frame barn in idyllic rural woodland outside Henley-on-

Thames. We would do dry our own timber, and machining, handcrafting and

polishing were all done in-house. It was a really high calibre of craftsmanship so there was plenty to learn over a few happy years.

Further research at MA level gave me an opportunity to investigate some materials

technology and more digital manufacturing techniques. I was interested in how my

cabinet-making techniques could be scaled up to create buildings so I spent some time researching structural and timber technology.

Before returning to set up in Ireland my furniture had been featured in a series of exhibitions in

London, had secured a cameo at the Milan Furniture Fair and also appeared in two sponsored exhibitions in Dubai.

MM: How did you come to establish DE BRUIR?

GdB: I returned to Ireland in mid-2007 to establish the studio in Kildare. The initial period was

actually spent building the structures to house my workshop and studio.

Following on from my MA research, the buildings were really experimental - a curving

timber design and went on to win the 2008 IDI Sustainable Design Award.

From early bag designs in off-cuts from my furniture work-shop a collection of accessories and luggage began to grow. The motivation behind the collection was greatly influenced by the economy and general talk of export.

Accessories are much easier to transport than furniture and bags were something that people would buy online. My target market (the online buyer) had just defined themselves as the technology user. So the collection was based around technology covers: laptop bags, tablet and smartphone covers. The same age profile (men aged 25-45) liked or needed to travel so the collection included aircraft carry-on luggage.

The break for the luggage came from listing it on Etsy.com. With that, the brand was introduced to an

international audience, gaining features and profiles on style websites and blogs across the US. In fact, the CEO of Etsy is the proud owner of three DE BRUIR bags!

All of a sudden sales were being generated from the USA, Australia and Canada in particular and so De Bruir was becoming a luggage brand. With the luggage becoming a larger part of the studio’s output, it seemed time to launch it independently to the rest of my furniture collection with a more targeted online shop - Aviation Luggage.

MM: What inspires your designs for De Bruir?

GdB: Every object is essentially a structure and has to be made from a material. The specific way in which you use that material (be it timber, cast metal or leather) is my priority. As well using natural materials I have a further design philosophy of just using fewer materials as a valid proposal for sustainability.

I’ve been trying to approach this by using simpler shapes in my designs. So it seems a valid approach to sustainability while the visual reward is the natural elegance of the curving shapes that are being proposed instead.

These same ideas are true when approaching my leatherwork designs. Instead of making a bag from lots of individual components i.e. stitching together bases, sides and tops, I’ve used a style of construction where large sweeping pieces of leather achieve the main bag shapes. This is true for all my laptop bags and hold-all bag designs but is particularly obvious in my

satchel bag.

^ De Bruir hold-all

Here a single piece of leather wraps into a simple vessel shape and in doing so creates a very

elegant curving detail at the front. This satisfying detail is only possible because of the robustness and sheer high-quality of the bridle leather.

MM: As well as your line of leather bags and accessories, you also create bespoke furniture. Can

you tell us a bit about this process?

GdB: My in-house range of furniture designs features very elegant curves in cast aluminium as legs

for my table, chair and stool designs. The cast aluminium combines with solid timbers, leather

or sheepskin to introduce more warmth to a piece.

Other designs are more bespoke; I will design and craft with a client’s tastes and

needs in mind. The process is traditional commissioning process, which might include initial sketches,

models, working drawings and samples before finalising the design, making and finishing the

piece to their exact requirements. From rough boards of walnut/oak/sycamore with details

of ebony/rosewood/bubinga (or leather!) a finished piece of furniture will be realised.

MM: What are your plans for the future of the brand?

GdB: At a creative level, I plan to simply create new and exciting bag designs. I am currently working on a collection of more feminine bags, so hopefully they will be a success.

At a commercial level, I like the online business model but I am slowly introducing the collection to retail, with stores in the US, Japan and Germany trialling the collection. There is a very definite visual and structural style to my bags so I am hoping for the brand to become recognised for this style.

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Find De Bruir products in the leathery flesh at Project 51, or online at Aviation Luggage.

Thanking You.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 08:36:00 +0000

When blogs first took off all those eons ago, anonymity was one of the most topical discussions surrounding the whole online affair: do you let people in on your personal life?; should people be able to identify you based on the pictures you post?, and so on and so forth. Whilst recognition was never my principal aim in starting Male-Mode.com back in 2007, I do sometimes wish my lecturers read it so they might consider extending my essay deadlines...

Sadly, they don't, and I've been forced to postpone a thank-you post 'til now due to theories on dystopic images of cinematic cityscapes...

Anyway, the results for this year's Online Fashion 100 2012 public vote in assoc. with Vogue are in, and I am so pleased, humbled and almost hysterically baffled to say that I have been named this year's Top Blogger. For fear of sounding like a gushing Oscar-recipient no one can bear to watch, I'll keep this as succinct as possible: thanks to all of you who generously gave your time to vote, to Leon Bailey Green of Directorsof.com for the initial nomination, to Dolly Jones and others at Vogue for their participation in the event, to all of you who contribute via Q+As, taking photos, providing press images etc. and to all of you who deem this smattering of opinions, thoughts and experiences worthwhile reading.

Plans for the New Year are exciting, and I do feel a bit chuffed that there will be plenty of you to share the fruits with.

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Congratulations to Queen Michelle of Kingdom of Style and Mrs D. of Fashionable Maven who also placed in the top-ranking blogs, as well as Jordan of the Fashion Rambler who gives good face right beside me at No. 10 on the list.

Order an e-book copy of the list here.

Where Were You?: Dublin Street-style from 1950-2000.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Sat, 03 Dec 2011 10:01:00 +0000

Oftentimes an unapologetic cynic, I always claimed Dubliners' recent interest in keeping abreast of international fashion goings-on, changing aesthetics and rising/falling hemlines was a result of the Celtic Tiger-related influx of wealth (yes, you can be creative and look great on a budget but, generally, fashion and sizeable funds go hand-in-hand) and, to an extent, a proliferation of fashion-related images through the internet.

Turns out I couldn't have been more wrong. Dubliners have been stylin' and documenting their efforts for well over a century and a newly published book by Garry O' Neill sets out to set the record straight for everyone. Where Were You? is the most comprehensive collection of dublin street style and youth culture photographs to date (probably the first of its kind - let's be honest), illustrating the various styles that captivated the Irish capital's chungfellas/wans from 1950-2000. There are teddy boys, punks, mods, rockers, ravers, goths and punks, skinheads and psychobillies as well as Vespas, beer-cans and days at the beach.

Compiled from the archives of photographers like Tony O' Shea, Derek Speirs, Bill Doyle and Fergus Bourke, as well as photobooth and Polaroid shots donated by the public, Where Were You? opens out - with its over 800 photographs - the previously inaccessible storied history of Dublin's fervour for style, inspiring as it does so.

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Find Where Were You? online here, or in the following stores: Easons, Hodges & Figgis and Chapters.

Images from The Irish Times and Where Were You?

Montague Burton: The High-street's Best Heritage.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Tue, 29 Nov 2011 18:15:00 +0000

Chances are you're all approaching a level of immense boredom re: the heritage revival that's been brewing for at least the past year but has come all out guns-, boots- and elbow-patches-ablazin' this AW11 season. As much as I appreciate the finer sartorial details of yesteryear (sharply cut tweed, suede patches, leather-work), the British (and, by extension, Irish) high-street's adaptation of the trend has seen some conceptually brilliant, but horrifically executed designs go on sale in the past couple of months.

Though it seems there's an exception in the form of British brand Burton. Previously synonymous, for me, with fairly crap slogan tees and sub-par suiting, Burton has really upped its game with a recently launched collection entitled Montague Burton, named after the label's founder.

^ A smart but not staid slim fit gun-patch blazer in 100% British grey tweed (£125)

^ Not usually a fan of the duffle but this verdant model has me changing camps, also 100% British wool (£150)

Taking inspiration from the company's 107-year-old archives, the collection centres on all things Brit, with British mills and British fabrics being used to create pieces that are perhaps best described as re-workings of the label's past fashion successes.

^ 100% British wool cable-knit jumper with leather elbow patches, comes at an awe-inducingly reasonable £60

^ Wool slouchy hold-all with leather trim and removable strap (£100)

Although - as an Irishman - the brand's descriptive statements like "The range [...] builds on the resurgence of national pride as we approach the 2012 Olympics" are just that bit too imperialistic to whet my appetite, the clothes, luckily, do a good enough job on their own.

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Shop the above selection and much more either online or in selected Burton stores.

Stone-Dri: 35 Years On...

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Tue, 22 Nov 2011 11:13:00 +0000

We're all familiar with the fashion big-boys who, since the luxury of the concept of legacy has started to be highly prized (i.e. since the onslaught of fast fashion), have turned to touting their heritage to boost sales even further/ensure they're recession-proof (Burberry, Vuitton, Farah, Bally etc.), but it's not all that often we hear about fashion's comebacks...

^ Salford's Stone Brothers

Stone-Dri, a Salford, Manchester-based brand was born in 1948, when the four Stone brothers banded together to revolutionise their father's coat and costume manufacturing business. Starting off with a modest collection of outer- and rainwear, Stone-Dri went from strength to strength during the 50s, eventually expanding into a retail empire under the subsidiary company name of 'The Direct Rain Coat Company'. The brand continued to produce until 1973 when it was bought out and eventually fizzled out, subject - as all labels are - to the fickleness of fashion.

Now, though, some 35 years after the brand's last AW collection, owner Joel Brown unveils a fresh offering for AW 2011 which harks back to Stone-Dri's heyday but doesn't get stuck in the mud there. Attentive to the brand's original signatures - utility, functionality, comfort and style, the revamped Stone-Dri's AW11 collection blends waxed cottons with Italian wools in a spectrum of season-appropriate but far from drab colours.

^ Drayton black-hooded spray jacket (€95.20)

^ Milmoor charcoal sweatshirt (€72.80)

^ Eastway brown overhead jacket (€106.40)

If only all comebacks were this successful - looking at you Duran Duran...

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Shop Stone-Dri (they also do a range of polos and shirts) exclusively at ASOS Marketplace.

55DSL Footwear: CRI55 CRO55 X 55TOP.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Wed, 16 Nov 2011 09:51:00 +0000

It's recently come to my attention that I currently have one pair of shoes in my possession. The rest, friends, are boots, and funnily enough, I'm not all that bothered. Since discovering what's often deemed the men's equivalent of the heel (albeit a hell of a lot easier to walk in...), I've never really looked back, content with the durability, versatility and comfort that they offer. Yes, it's led to one or two odd (and unfortunately permanent) foot markings but that's all part of the semi-masochistic boot-breaking-in process, something that assures you this type of footwear demands your respect, rather than attempting to earn it.

And yet, variety is the spice of life and I'm reasonably sure that I'm causing permanent damage to general anatomy, so, you know, I've begun to think about exploring other avenues. 55DSL, Diesel's Italian sister brand which I penned a piece on a few weeks back, makes change all the more enticing with a line of decidedly chic sneakers; yes, I know that sounds oxymoronic but look below for yourself...

^ The 55TOP - a high-top sneaker inspired by 80's skate style mixes nylon with leather and suede accents for sexy results.

^ The CRI55 CRI55 - a two-tone, suede-and-nylon mix running shoe

The line is all about imperfections according to 55DSL i.e. each shoe is unique, varying in some stitch or detail, which they seem to think cranks up the 'beauty' caché. I'm not entirely convinced by the jargon but provided they don't fall apart after a few wears, consider me sold.

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Available from 55DSL and selected Diesel stores this month.

Hab' noch einen Koffer in Berlin.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 10:08:00 +0000

Back from Berlin and ready for a week of Absolut Mode, absolute essays and absolute dissertation research. Since time's somewhat scant today, there's less of my verbal meandering and more of my shoddy photography to keep y'all entertained...

Check back soon for a new Q+A, a way overdue giveaway and general musings...

And in the meantime...

^ Mauerpark in the wintry mist. Stark contrast to everyone blissfully off their heads singing karaoke on a Summer's Sunday afternoon.

^ One of my favourite Berlin streets (Oderbergerstrasse), unsurprisingly detested by the anti-Establishment, anti-capitalist, uncomprosingly leftist population of the city for its wealth of sexy shops and cafés.

^ Free GQ Style! Who cares who may have urinated on it...

^ Impala is an incontestable must for tea and coffee fans. HRH E. House recommends their extensive chai selection.

^ Berlin playgrounds - for an eclectic mix of cute children and ranting junkies. This is just one of a series I drunkenly stumbled through with visiting friends.

^ Happy Shop on Torstrasse! The place to blow your month's rent on some Meadham Kirchoff before promptly taking your mind off your wrecklessness with a €3 cocktail a few doors down at BR 101.

^ Good Morning Vietnam on Alte Schönhauser Strasse in Mitte is both affordable and delicious. Ditch slavish followers of hipster rhetoric who frequent Monsieur Vuong down the road, Good Morning Vietnam is a damn sight better and you won't feel the need to preen and pout.

^ Haarwerkstatt (also on Alte Schönhauser Strasse, Mitte) do a wash-and-cut incredibly schnell and for no more than €12. Just remember the German practice of selber föhnen i.e. styling your own hair - don't look surprised if your stylist hands you a hair-dryer.

^ The launch of this Rosa-Luxembourg-Strasse Mykita store was one of the v. few I attended during my sojourn in Berlin. Whilst there myself and some Irish friends watched little girls try out the free make-up samples by applying generous amounts of mascara to their lips and engaged in our favourite activity of marvelling at how impossibly attractive Berliners can be.

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To explore more, check out 032c, I Heart Berlin and Stil in Berlin. Diejenigen, die Deutsch können, schlage ich euch vor: Les Mads, René Schaller und Zeitgeschmack.

Up In Arms.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 13:25:00 +0000

You might recall I suggested camo for Halloween attire a couple of weeks back. Now I'm proposing it for everything from your work-wardrobe (depending on your profession, of course...) to occasion wear to down-the-pub/club apparel. Granted you may receive a few sniggering 'G.I. Joe/Action Man' remarks but that's a hell of a lot better than Ken, right?

^ Tee from ASOS Vintage; jeans from Topman; boots from Dr. Martens Triumph 1460 range

Thread: A Fashion Magazine for Dublin.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Mon, 07 Nov 2011 08:44:00 +0000

To Berlin this morning to spend a few days with fellow red wine and Evelyn Waugh enthusiast and good friend, SMP. In the absence of normal post frequency, here's a little something to tide you over...

^ Thread Issue 2 - 'One Thing Leads to Another'

Thread Magazine is a fashion magazine for Dublin, one apart from the celebrity-worshipping, pink-hued bibles of tack, which aims to bring the finest of the Irish fashion community - both at home and abroad - to the fore. Launched earlier this year, the arrival of the sophomore issue was toasted (a little too enthusiastically by myself...) Friday night last at Dublin's Block T.

I interviewed London-based twin designers Tata Naka for the issue but there's lots more to keep you rapt from a feature on Ireland's arguably most significant photographic export, Boo George, to an interview with London-based designer and Gaga favourite Sorcha O' Rachallaigh.

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See Thread for an online version of Issue 1 and stockists of the current issue.

On a balcony in...Dublin.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Sat, 05 Nov 2011 17:04:00 +0000

Considering it's been an eon since I last posted something vaguely personal style-ee, and seeing as the new wintry snap has given good reason to cover up that bit more, I thought it was high time I took the opportunity to show off my...er...wares...

^ Beginning to think that all of my kind of fast-fashion buys always turn out to be my investment purchases. I snapped this New Look jumper up for a mere €5 (using a generous friend's v. generous 50% employee discount) during last year's colder months and save for a bit of washing-induced warping, it's still looking pretty fine.

Green joggers from Topman, and boots by Wolverine at Urban Outfitters.

^ Reason enough, I suppose, that I'm not set to be the next David Gandy...

^ Major thanks to Urban Outfitters who kindly invited me 'round to their place to select some AW stock to share with y'all. As well as these unfathomably comfortable, impeccably crafted boots, I picked up a Farah peacoat and a Cheap Monday shirt (more on these in the future...).

Tote bag from ASOS

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Thanks to housemate HRH E. House for the photos. We took these on our apartment balcony/roof-garden (hence the Kate reference in the title) in a hungover haze after a sizeable brunch post last night's Thread Magazine Issue 2 launch. How did you spend Saturday?

On Fair Isle for AW11.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Thu, 03 Nov 2011 09:46:00 +0000

From its origins on one of smallest of the Shetland Islands to regal outings in the form of vests worn by Edward VIII during rounds of golf in the 1920s, the fair isle knit undergoes somewhat of a renaissance this AW11 season.

^ River Island rust jumper (available at ASOS - £36)

Featured in the collections of high-end stalwart Brit brands (Burberry Prorsum), as well as those populating the high-street (River Island, Topman etc.), fair isle knitwear seems, in the majority of cases, to have narrowly escaped its former kitsch factor and most of this season's incarnations have managed to evade obvious 'Xmas jumper' references.

^ Topman Crewneck Jumper - £40

Still, as an unabashed bore when it comes to pattern and colourways, it's with a certain degree of reserve that I welcome the iconic Scottish look into stores.

^ DO - Burberry Prorsum (available at Mr Porter - €667)

^ DON'T - Ralph Lauren Purple (available at Mr Porter - €1,448)

As Mr Porter outline in their 'How-to-wear' guide, just ensure it's slim-fitting and you're not smoking a pipe. Adding my own two cents, I'd advise giving any muted greens or browns a wide berth, as well as avoiding anything remotely snowflake-y like the Winter plague.

^ Scott Nichol boot socks (at ASOS - £18); boot socks are a great way to incorporate the dynamic fairisle pattern without blinding yourself and the rest of the populace.

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Shop more fair isle styles at ASOS, River Island, Topman and Mr Porter.

Read some concise and informative features on fair isle from The Observer (here) and GQ (here).

Simon Spurr: Entering E-Commerce.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Tue, 01 Nov 2011 10:38:00 +0000

There's no stopping Simon Spurr. The English-born, NYC-based menswear designer and four-time nominee for various CFDA awards has just taken the plunge, and taken his acclaimed tailoring-based brand online. And it's great, save for a few unforgivable copy errors here and there ("The brands clean and timeless aesthetic" - really, really?) and the presence of - shudder - a "celebrity" press section.

^ Simon Spurr's e-commerce site launches today

Still, Spurr really doesn't get half the love he's due on this blog. As an Englishman abroad - and in NY, specifically - Spurr fuses his v. English tailoring heritage with the easiness and understated edginess of a more New Yorkian aesthetic.

The result is a look that's commercial and easily marketed (and swiftly seen on the backs of every cringe-inducing celebrity from castrati Justin Timberlake to rom-com bore Zac Efron), but that's also guaranteed to secure you a few appreciative nods, design-wise.

Take, for example, the Autumn Winter 2011 collection, which - although a tad too literal in the Luke Skywalker referencing (see look-book shots...) - is a perfect blend of wearability, interesting cuts and unexpected pairings of fabrics.

Spurr says of the collection: "[it] pushes the boundaries of sartorialism by juxtaposing custom-made fabrics and materials against one another to create movement" - fashion jargon. But he also states, that a "reduced color palette allows the eye to focus on texture, fit and proportion, reflecting a definitive and dramatic point of view", which is an accurate enough observation and perhaps also the collection's strongest trait.

Lightsaber-y look-book shots a bit old hat but undeniably appealing all the same...

There's also an Inspiration section (film stills, shots of architectural feats etc.), an area devoted to the less-formal, denim-based Spurr brand and a wealth of videos to pore over. Despite my seemingly tepid enthusiasm, Spurr really is a designer worth watching, if only to marvel at his powerful combination of business acumen and aesthetic awareness.

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Shop Simon Spurr here. Read a Q+A with the man himself here, courtesy of The Gilt Man.

EDIT: I've just been informed that the site currently available is the beta version, and I've been assured that all typos will be corrected when the final version goes live later today, so I can quit my cribbing, I suppose.

Get In Line.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Mon, 31 Oct 2011 14:16:00 +0000

Y'all know I'm not exactly one for seasonal posts but I'm making an exception for the holiday that's in it. Halloween Tip 2012 - you could do worse than camo, it's perfectly in line with the heavyweight trend-setters (mind the Fascistic post title there, though), can be interpreted variously as G.I. Joe, Action Man, generic soldier etc, and saves you delving into drag territory, though that could also be arranged...

^ London's YMC has just released this line of hunting camo. ASOS were doing the more ubiquitous US Woodland camo but it seems to be pulled now that stock's are low. Your local Army Surplus calls...

Images from YMC

PS. Esquire's Blogger Showdown addresses the issue of 'dressing up' and its implications. Interesting reading.

The Art of Fashion: Aoife Wasser @ Dublin Contemporary.

noreply@blogger.com (Cillian) — Thu, 27 Oct 2011 08:17:00 +0000

I remember distinctly when I first happened upon the name Aoife Wasser. I was about 17, trawling through blogs and it was while perusing former-model-turned-photographer JD Ferguson's, that I came across an unmistakably Irish name. In a blog-post on a Visionaire event. In New York.

^ Linda Brownlee (Left) and Aoife Wasser (Right)

Naturally enough, I decided - based on Wasser's surname, that this wasn't one of our own who had somehow made the move to one of the world's fashion capitals and infiltrated the ranks of arguably the most prestigious arts and fashion publication, but rather the child of parents with a penchant for all things Gaelic. I was wrong.

Aoife Wasser is, in fact, Irish, and recently returned to her home country to share her thoughts and highly cherished nuggets of wisdom with an audience all ears. Invited by Dublin Contemporary, Ireland's first biennale, to be interviewed by Irish-born, London-based photographer Linda Brownlee (whose own work is worth a perusal, especially her series on Achill Island) for the event The Art of Fashion, Wasser told of her beginnings (studying for a degree in Visual Communication at DIT), moving to New York and her almost incomprehensibly upward career trajectory from that moment on.

^ The Lounge at Dublin Contemporary

Having moved to New York intent on nothing more than securing an internship for the 3 months her visa permitted her to stay, Wasser ended up at David Carson's studio (the "art director of the era" according to Creative Review London) and never returned home (except, of course, for visits). Having had her portfolio ripped to shreds (figuratively, don't worry) by Carson, Wasser was quick to impress. From there, she moved on to Visionaire, the luxury multi-format arts and fashion biannual which channels a specific theme each issue, be it Scent, Taste, Sound or Chic.

Whilst at Visionaire, Wasser worked with a small team on a range of projects (V Magazine, V Man and V's advertising agency), moving from indispensable intern to Junior Designer to a Vis Com grad with that oh-so-holy of grails - a sponsored visa, something every NYC-obsessed Irish grad desires, but rarely procures.

In 2008, Wasser moved to the more commercial arena of Condé Nast publishing, taking up the role of Creative Director at Teen Vogue where it was, according to the woman herself, all about the "smile ratio", and where Wasser encountered a brattish Justin Bieber (what a surprise!), who demanded "an apple pie, a Subway sandwich and a can of Coke" on meeting Wasser who introduced herself as Art Director, not lowest-rung Intern.

Now, having left the world of adolescent apparel, Wasser runs her own consultancy in New York and is currently working with venerable publishing house, Rizzoli.

Not only was Wasser warm, insightful and inspiringly ambitious, but also grounded, hard-working and endearingly modest. It's a combination, she admitted, that's seen her reach the level of success she's enjoying right now.

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See photographer Linda Brownlees' work here. View V and Visionare publications here and here.