Mapping MONTALCINO

MONTALCINO A-Z: The Magpie’s Guide to Brunello town

2022-05-31T15:44:00.002+02:00

Something exciting is in the pipeline. Long-term Montalcino resident and Brunello expert, Laura R.Gray, is working on a fabulous new project about Montalcino. Is it a guidebook? Is it a lexicon? A glossary? A wine compendium? Yes and no. The format is A-Z but the selection criteria is entirely personal. Expect etymology and cultural observation, and things you never knew about Montalcino

The project is called The Magpie’s Guide to Montalcino and you can sign up for more information as it becomes available here, follow Laura on Instagram or keep an eye on her website (which sports one gorgeous panorama shot of Montalcino!).

After nearly thirty years of life “drowning in Brunello,” at the helm of Il Palazzone winery for nearly twenty years, an analytic eye for detail and an irreverent attitude to life and wine, this is going to be a fun and educational read.

Who better to select shiny nuggets of information – and what fun for us, magpie-like, to choose what most appeals? Anyone who has had a cellar visit with Laura will know her aptitude for embodied knowledge, and ability to convey huge amounts of information with levity and wit.

Winelovers and Tuscanyphiles, this one is for you!

Montalcino Jazz & Wine 2019

2019-06-16T15:16:00.001+02:00

Edition 22 of Montalcino Jazz & Wine will bring seven jazz concerts to Brunello town. The first two are held in the courtyard of Castello Banfi (small space, make sure to book in advance, details below), while the concerts from July 10 to 14, 2019 will happen in Montalcino's fortress, the long-standing, spacious festival venue und the Tuscan stars.

Montalcino Jazz & Wine 2019

The incredible Dee Dee Bridgewater, a frequent guest at Umbria Jazz, will be in Montalcino this year with her new program dedicated to Josephine Baker. Another big name is Grammy award nominated Canadian saxophonist Ben Wendel (who played at the Incontri festival in Val d'Orcia a few years ago) together with Mexican drummer, singer and composer Israel Varela.

Montalcino Jazz & Wine - July

As every year, the excellent Italian jazz scene is present on several nights with Rosario Giuliano, the Flavio Boltro trio, the Roberto Gatto quartet and Dario Deidda together with American guitarist Kurt Rosenwinkel.

Montalcino Jazz & Wine, July 2 - 14, 2019

Ticket reservations: marketing@banfi.it - +39 0577 840 111

All concerts start at 9.45pm. Tickets between 15 and 20€ (25€ for Dee Dee Bridgewater).

Brunello wine fairs 2019

2019-06-13T15:27:00.000+02:00

Wine buyers and expert tasters usually travel to Montalcino in winter to taste the latest releases during Benvenuto Brunello. However, recently two new events have started to bring Brunello lovers to town in early summer.

Tutto in un Sorso / Wine without Borders reunites some of the most interesting producers of the natural wine world in Montalcino. Small, mostly family-run wineries from Italy and France will lead tastings of their natural wines at the Sant'Agostino church in Montalcino.

For wine lovers with an ample budget, the Long Live Brunello wine fair (tickets from 500 Euro) will be of interest. For the first time, 35 Brunello wineries reunite to open some of their oldest bottles (starting with the 1968 vintage). It's going to be hard to find another event that will allow you to taste so many riservas in one place. The fair will end with a charity auction at the Bertarelli concert hall in Cinigiano.

Long Live Brunello: June 21 - 23, 2019. Tickets from 500€.

Tutto in un Sorso: Natural wines in Montalcino, June 30 / July 1 2019

MONTALCINO JAZZ & WINE 2018

2018-06-04T11:25:00.001+02:00

Montalcino Jazz & Wine, July 12 to 22, 2018
All concerts start at 9.45pm in Montalcino's fortress, apart from the pre-concert on July 12 which will take place in the courtyard of Castello Banfi.

Banfi's courtyard can get jammed, but there is always space at the fortress even if you arrive late. However, if you want a table close to the stage, be sure to make a reservation via Montalcino's tourist office. Phone: +39 0577 849331; email: info@prolocomontalcino.com

Natural wine in Montalcino: June 3 and 4, 2018

2018-06-01T17:36:00.001+02:00

A wine fair in Montalcino that isn't just about Brunello? Now, that's a first! Tutto in un Sorso promises an exciting weekend and fresh wind for the lovely but rather autocentric Tuscan town.

Organized by Francesca Padovani and Marco Arturi from Montalcino's Fonterenza winery, the first edition of Tutto in un Sorriso will showcase 47 organic and biodynamic wineries from every corner of Europe.

Wine lovers will recognize Foradori, Occhipinti and a few other shooting stars of the natural wine world. But with this fair, the real treat lies in discovering little-known European grape varieties and inspiring wines from small family-run vineyards. Labours of love which can't be easily found anywhere else in Italy!

Tutto in un Sorso
Cloister of Sant'Agostino, Montalcino: June 3 and 4, 2018
Tastings from 11 am to 7 pm.
Entrance 15€

The Temple of San Biagio - back to former splendour

2018-04-20T16:29:00.001+02:00

The temple of San Biagio seen from the Pienza - Montepulciano road

Tuscany has countless churches in incredible locations. But some stick out and leave a mark, even if you're the 'seen one church, seen them all' type of person. Montepulciano's temple of San Biagio is one of them. It's hard not to drive off the road when noticing it for the first time while approaching Montepulciano on the road from Pienza. Over the years, I've observed many a hazardous manoeuvre by tourists trying to get a pic of San Biagio taking a sunset bath during golden hour (and am guilty of some of them myself).

Whether you pull over on the road from Pienza or look down onto the church from Montepulciano's town walls, San Biagio looks incredible from every angle and in front of every backdrop. No doubt, Tuscans know how to choose a scenic location but its thanks to the genius of Renaissance architect Antonio da San Gallo the elder that the church stands out like no other while at the same time fitting perfectly into the landscape.

Temple of San Biagio seen from Montepulciano's town walls

But nothing is perfect. During the last decade, after approaching the church via the elegant cypress-lined road, one couldn't but feel a little disappointed by the interior of the stately temple. The warm feeling of the travertine facade lit up by the Tuscan sunlight vanished once over the doorstep. Antonio da San Gallo's design for the interior had never been entirely carried out and over the centuries the walls had been stripped off the paintings and altars adorning them. The mould and stains left behind created a bleak and eery contrast to the glowing exteriors.

San Biagio church with Montepulciano in the background

Luckily, things have changed. Just in time for its five hundred years anniversary, the church has been diligently restored and brought back to former splendour. And an accompanying exhibition has been set up recounting the temple's history and the changes carried out over the centuries (no idea whether it includes the list of related car accidents too).

TEMPLE OF SAN BIAGIO

Opening times of the church and the exhibition of San Biagio's history and restoration:

April 22 - May 31: 10am - 6pm

June 1 - September 30: 9.30am - 6.30pm

October 1 - 31: 10am - 6pm

November 1 - 4: 10am - noon / 3pm - 5pm

Tickets: € 3,50 (including a free audioguide in English, French, German, Spanish and Italian). Free entrance for children up to 6 yrs.

WINTER WINERY VISIT

2017-12-24T10:18:00.000+01:00

Brunello di Montalcino is not an everyday wine, and especially Brunello Riservas - produced only in outstanding vintages - are wines for big occasions, birthdays, anniversaries and, of course, the holidays.

But when visiting Montalcino and the Val d'Orcia during Christmas season, many wine lovers struggle to find a vineyard open for tastings. Understandably, after a year of hard work, most Brunello producers celebrate at home to finally enjoy their wine with their families.

Palazzone vineyard near Montalcino: open for tastings during the holidays

Il Palazzone's holiday winery visits are an exception to the rule and the themed tastings are just the thing you need if you're still contemplating ideal wine pairings for Christmas lunch or New Year's Eve.

Sensory Tasting – Family Friendly
Deciphering the aromas in a wineglass is fun! Come and explore the world of aromas and scents. Includes: private winery tour, guided tasting of 4 wines & a leaflet.

Pairing Sangiovese – Foodlovers' Delight
How food pairing rules work and what is best with Brunello or Rosso di Montalcino. Includes: Private winery tour, tasting/pairing of 3 different Sangiovese wines.

Classic Il Palazzone Tour and Tasting
Private winery tour and wine and olive oil tasting

For more information visit Il Palazzone's website or send an email to info@vino-vistas.com or laura@ilpalazzone.com.

SUNSET TASTINGS IN BRUNELLO TOWN

2017-07-31T16:52:00.003+02:00

Sunset at the Palazzone winery

Tasting Brunello can be a daunting task, at least during the two hottest months of the year. When temperatures start to reach suffocating highs in July and August, only hard-core professionals will look forward to starting the day with a wine that often has an alcohol content of 14 % (let alone the even mightier Brunello Riserva). Most travelers would just ask for one more iced coffee, thank you, if it wasn't for, yes, Montalcino.

At Il Palazzone - one of my top ten wineries to visit in Montalcino - Esther from Vino Vistas created a cool alternative to sticky Tuscan summer mornings spent spitting too warm wine: sunset tastings (I still can't believe that nobody has thought about it before!).

Swirl your wine at sundown and enjoy not just the gorgeous view but also a bit of a breeze. Montalcino isn't just known for Brunello, but also for its windy evenings, and you'll come to love them after a sizzling hot August day.

IL PALAZZONE SUNSET TASTINGS

Tastings start around 7pm, depending on time of year/sunset. The winery is located five minutes from the town center.
Book ahead as tastings are for private groups only (from 2 to 8 participants). Prices start from 30€ per person depending on the selection of wines chosen. To book the tour send an email to Esther (info@vino-vistas.com), the certified and extremely knowledgable wine guide who will lead you through the expert tasting.

Looking for more info about the - Richard Parsons owned - Palazzone winery? Read on here.

SUMMER WINE NOTES at Castiglion del Bosco

2017-07-20T17:19:00.001+02:00

Summer Wine Notes at Castiglion del Bosco

The Castiglion del Bosco winery opens the doors of its luxury estate to the north-east of Montalcino for wine tastings and Jazz concerts during the summer of 2017.

Enjoy golden hour at CdB with a glass of wine and good music or ask for a visit to the wine cellar. And if you're not convinced by music and vino alone, you may be interested to hear that Montalcino's top luxury hotel is owned by Massimo Ferragamo and Barack Obama played golf here during his time in Tuscany last May (he and Michelle stayed at Borgo Finocchieto not far from CdB).

Summer Wine Notes: July 21 and August 18, 2017

Castiglion del Bosco winery - 7pm to 9 pm.
The tasting includes three wines - a Chardonnay and, of course, a Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino - and a buffet with Tuscan cold cuts, cheeses and starters.
Prize per person: 25€.
For details about the Jazz bands playing on the night have a look at Castiglion del Bosco's Facebook page.

JAZZ & WINE 2017 - the 20 year anniversary

2017-06-28T16:52:00.002+02:00

In the summer of 1999 I arrived in Montalcino as a young Swiss woman traveling on her own. I expected beautiful views, great wines and sultry summer nights - but I had no idea that those nights would be accompanied by the soundtrack of a young and little-known Jazz festival with an incredible lineup.

Nearly two decades have passed and I'm still here, but many things have changed: I have two kids (with an Italian, of course), wrote a book - music plays a big part in it too - about a side of Tuscany that is hardly known and Italy has been stuck for years in an economic crisis which saw harsh cuts to the funding of the country's cultural life. However, the first music festival I ever attended in Tuscany is still here and still going strong.

Founded in 1997, Montalcino Jazz & Wine celebrates its 20th anniversary this July. I'll be toasting along with lots of wine, as the week of world-class Jazz in Montalcino's medieval fortress has been making up for many a winter spent in the cultural void that comes with year round living in the Tuscan countryside.

New names and hightlights of the 2017 edition include Israeli pianist Yakir Arbib (on July 18 in the courtyard of Castello Banfi) and 2012 Grammy Award winner Robert Glasper (July 20 at the Fortezza in Montalcino). Bigband lovers won't want to miss out on the Tankio Band on July 13 and the Jazz & Wine Orchestra on July 19. The Roy Hargrove Quintet on July 21 doesn't need an introduction, just as Enrico Rava - the trumpeter is by now a household name in Montalcino (and at most other Italian jazz festivals), as is Italian pianist Danilo Rea, who, a few years ago has played one of my favorite concerts ever here.

MONTALCINO JAZZ & WINE: July 6 to July 23, 2017

The loaction of the pre-festival - the first three concerts from July 6 to July 18 called 'Waiting for Jazz & Wine' - is the courtyard of the main sponsor, Montalcino's Castello Banfi winery (this venue is lovely, but small so make sure you book in advance). Also, it can get hot here, so dress lightly.

The concersts of the main festival will all take place in Montalcino's airy fortress (sometimes airy equals very windy, so bring a jacket, just in case).

Door opens at 9pm. Concerts start at 9.45pm. There is always space even for late arrivers at the fortress (Fortezza di Montalcino), but come early if you want a table up front.

Ticket reservation Montalcino Jazz & Wine 2017:
Banfi winery +39 0577 840111 Email: marketing@banfi.it

TICKETS FOR BENVENUTO BRUNELLO 2017

2017-02-16T11:49:00.000+01:00

Sommeliers at Benvenuto Brunello 2016

Some important changes have taken place during the last few years in regard to Benvenuto Brunello. The Consortium of Brunello wine and its yearly fair are now located in the newly restored Sant Agostino complex (a beautiful former monastery in Montalcino's town center).

But even more importantly, in 2017 access rules to the Brunello preview have been changed. It always used to be a press and trade fair, but producers got tickets they would share generously with friends or clients (see my Benvenuto post here). However, several winemakers told me that this will be no longer the case. From 2017, the rules are more similar to Verona's Vinitaly fair with producers having a minimum amount of tickets that grant free access to Benvenuto Brunello.

Hence, Brunello lovers no longer need to nice talk a winemaker for a voucher but can book their Benvenuto Brunello ticket directly from the Consortium (prices start at 15€ if you have an invite from the consortium or a producer). It will be interesting whether this new system stops the crowd which used to get mad on Sundays and Mondays (Saturdays has always been reserved for journalists only). Knowing the Italian talent for spotting a loophole I wouldn't bet on it.

Benvenuto Brunello 2017: Saturday February 18 to Monday February 20.

Sveva presenting Sesti's Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino at Benvenuto 2016

MONTALCINO JAZZ & WINE 2016: PROGRAM

2016-07-07T16:54:00.000+02:00

MONTALCINO JAZZ & WINE: July 12 to July 17, 2016

All concerts take place in Montalcino's medieval fortress with the exception of the first night when the Johnny O'Neal trio will open the festival in the courtyard of Castello Banfi on July 12. Concerts start at 9.45 pm. There is always space even for late arrivers at the fortress (Fortezza di Montalcino), but come early for the gig at Castello Banfi since space is more limited at the courtyard of the Banfi winery.

Johnny O'Neal (one of Art Blakey's Jazz Messengers) live in New York.

MONTALCINO JAZZ & WINE 2015

2015-06-23T09:24:00.002+02:00

Montalcino jazz and wine 2015

The program of the 18th edition of Montalcino Jazz & Wine brings one of my favorite Italian musicians to Brunello town on the evening of the 17th of July. Sergio Cammariere may not be known as well as Paolo Conte out of Italy, but his music will definitely be enjoyed by the fans of the latter.

The seven concerts of the 2015 festival have something for every taste: two Saudade inspired nights on the 14th and 19th of July and an evening in the footsteps of Django Reinhardt with French gypsy jazz guitarist Angelo Debarre on July 16. Debarre also offers a master class on the afternoon of July 15 (contact marketing@banfi.it if you'd like to participate).

For bepop lovers the highlight of the music festival in Brunello town will be the Cookers on July 18. The American members of the septet look back on half a century of jazz music played in the company of the most famous names of the genre (Art Blakey, Sony Rollins, Dina Washington, Art Pepper, Miles Davis and Stan Getz to name but a few). Considering that the Cooker's band name was inspired by trumpeter Freddie Hubbard's 1965 Blue Note album, you'll know what you're in for.

MONTALCINO JAZZ & WINE 2015, JULY 14 to 19

Tickets: 15€. Reservation of tickets and tables via info@prolocomontalcino.com Phone: 0577 849 331. Concerts starts at 9.45 pm.
A simple dinner can be eaten beforehand at the fortress (prepared by Montalcino's neighborhoods). Banfi's red, white and sparkling wines from Montalcino and northern Italy and small bites to eat are available during the night. In the case of rain, the concerts will take place in Montalcino's Sant'Agostino church (next to the museum).

Can't make it to Montalcino (yet)? Here's a beautiful video of Sergio Cammariere's entire gig in Milano's teatro Strehler, to be watched with a glasso of Brunello in hand wherever you are.

HOTEL RIF IN SANT'ANGELO IN COLLE: MAY 27, 2015

2015-05-24T13:05:00.000+02:00

Montalcino's festival season hasn't started yet and we're still waiting for the release of the program of Jazz&Wine 2015. But with the longer days and warmer weather the first musicians are back in town. Sabrina Turri closed Montalcino's music season last autumn at La Pieve and is reopening it this spring with a concert in the beautiful piazza of Sant'Angelo in Colle.

HOTEL RIF, SANT'ANGELO IN COLLE, WEDNESDAY MAY 27, 7 pm

The concert is organized by restaurant il Leccio. Come early to enjoy the sunset view from the town walls of Sant'Angelo in Colle (the best in Montalcino) or to have dinner at restaurant il Leccio before.

If you're not going out on an ordinary weekday catch Hotel Rif on Sunday May 24 at Siena's Teatro dei Rozzi for a special performance commemorating Italy's involvement in the first world war together with writer Emilio Franzina. Or come to Cinigiano on lunch time on Saturday May 30, to start the weekend with music and plenty of aperitivi and hopefully even a dance to Hotel Rif's lunch time gig in my Tuscan village.

12 MONTHS OF BRUNELLO: SEPTEMBER IN MONTALCINO - HARVEST TIME (PART ONE)

2014-09-29T23:54:00.000+02:00

For a wine loving traveler there is no better month to visit Tuscany than September. Vendemmia, the wine harvest is around the corner and the vineyards look at their best with bunches of grapes showing off their beautiful dark red and blu colors - known as Brunello in the case of Montalcino's famous Sangiovese varietal.

From early September you'll be able to see the first pickers in action, whilst they harvest Montalcino's rare patches of white wine grapes and French varietals like Merlot and Cabernet Franc. True to its importance, the Sangiovese Grosso grape is the last to be ready. The harvest of the Brunello grape will start during the last days of September in the lower lying vineyards with southern exposition and during the first half of October in Montalcino's higher vineyards and North facing areas.

GOOD TO KNOW

The approaching wine harvest turns jovial vintners who spend infinite hours in the wine cellar talking to complete strangers about ideal barrel aging time and their nonna's homemade pasta recipes into monosyllabic neurotics, who keep pulling out their iPhone to check the weather forecast yet again. This might not feel like the ideal time for a winery visit, but instead of feeling hurt about the lack of attention jump at the occasion and fire away questions about the vintage in the making. You won't just learn plenty about the perils and pitfalls of wine making, but you'll also provide the vineyard staff a welcome occasion to let off some steam in this tension prone month.

THE WEATHER IN SEPTEMBER: In the second half of the month nights can be cold high up in Montalcino's town center with its elevation of 567 meter, but days are mostly glorious with the type of heat that's enjoyable and doesn't make one want to spend the day indoors hiding behind closed shutters like in July or August.

All photos taken by Francesca Padovani during the wine harvest 2014. The talented young winemaker runs Montalcino's organic Fonterenza winery together with her sister Margherita Padovani. Follow Francesca on Instagram for beautiful hands on updates from the natural wine movement in Brunello town.

TWO FOR ONE - ITALIAN FOLK MUSIC & TUSCAN FOOD: SEPTEMBER 13 and 16, 2014

2014-09-09T15:14:00.000+02:00

When summer comes to an end one fears the worst in Montalcino. From music festivals and al fresco dining the population moves right into the wine harvest and nights out become suddenly a no go (anybody who has ever spent a day picking grapes will know why).

Thanks god we are not quite there though. A few white wine grapes may already be off the vine, but since Montalcino is Sangiovese country we still have a couple of weeks before things go berserk and a last couple of events before Brunello town's social life falls temporarily asleep. So better make sure you'll be there!

Hotel Rif, the Italian band around singer songwriter Sabrina Turri will take you on a trip through Italian and Mediterranean folk music in one of the most beautiful venues Montalcino has to offer. Restaurant la Pieve is located on the Tuscan town's south-western slopes, so make sure you leave Montalcino a bit early to take in the fabulous sunset on the road that leads via Tavernelle to La Pieve (if you want to do an extra hour of exploring visit lovely Camigliano beforehand). Then take a seat and enjoy dinner at restaurant la Pieve accompanied by the fabulous sound of Hotel Rif.

Sabrina Turri during a concert of Hotel Rif

HOTEL RIF AT LA PIEVE DI MONTALCINO
Saturday 13th and Tuesday 16th of September 2014

Be sure to make a reservation. Price for concert and dinner 35€. Booking: info@lapievedimontalcino.it; +39 0577 81 66 04.

La Pieve has beautiful rooms too, if you want to stay overnight. In case they are all booked try one of my favorite holiday rentals in the area: Art and Garden in Monte Antico (20 minutes from La Pieve).

Last but not least, check out Hotel Rif's website and their new record Piedirante to get ready for a last great night out in Montalcino this summer.

12 MONTHS OF BRUNELLO: AUGUST IN MONTALCINO AND WHY YOU SHOULD VISIT DURING A DIFFERENT MONTH

2014-08-21T18:07:00.000+02:00

I am no friend of August in Italy. Too hot, too crowded. The last few summers may have been cooler and wetter than the norm, but whilst the weather has changed the tourists haven't. Half of the bel paese is on holiday in August, and those Italians who are not at the beach seem to love ticking off Brunello town from their must see list on sweltering hot summer days (Montalcino gets most of its day trip visitors during this time of the year).

If you insist in visiting Montalcino in August make sure your hotel or agriturismo owns a pool. You'll need it. Otherwise the last resort will be to cool down in one of the area's 250 wine cellars.

GOOD TO KNOW

There are better months than August to visit Montalcino. Especially if you come for the wine. With its high alcohol content Brunello tastes better when its a little cooler (or properly cold) outside, so summer may be the time to drink your way through the slightly lighter Rosso di Montalcino and the various blends of the Sant'Antimo Doc.

Or leave the wine alone and look out for Montalcino's different honeys instead, which are just incredible when freshly tasted right after making (at last there's one good reason to be here in August). One of my favorite Tuscan honeys is produced at the Collemattoni winery near Sant'Angelo in Colle. The organically run vineyard produces not 'just' Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino but its own honey and extra virgin olive oil too.

12 MONTHS OF BRUNELLO: JULY IN MONTALCINO AND SUNSET AT ARGIANO

2014-07-31T15:09:00.000+02:00

July brings sultry mornings and sizzling hot afternoons to most of Italy. Locals who aren't lucky enough to be sunbathing at the sea will try to spend as much time as possible indoors until temperatures get more bearable in the evening. But there is always an exception to the rule: in July 2014 tourists didn't buy Tuscan straw hats for shade but Chinese umbrellas to shield off the rain. That July central Italy received 16 days of rain en lieu of the three days usually expected during the second month of summer.

Things were even worse in the north and south of the country and winemakers in Tuscany had an awfully busy time with hail and humidity putting their precious crop at risk (for more info on the mad climate's effect on the vines read the Palazzone winery's account of July 2014). Thankfully Italy's Scottish July is a thing of the past now and in future years the month is hopefully back to what it's supposed to be: the driest and hottest in Tuscany.

GOOD TO KNOW

Winery visits are a great escape from the heat since you'll spend a lot of time in temperature controlled wine cellars. However if you want to walk the Brunello vineyards too, make sure you book your tasting in the early morning or late afternoon when outdoor temperatures are less cruel.

Montalcino's town center and Sant'Angelo in Colle will be pleasant locations for a stroll after dinner since their relatively high elevation guarantees for a refreshing wind even in the midst of summer.

Also, July is a great month to visit Brunello town for music lovers:

Montalcino Jazz & Wine takes place every year in the middle of July. The fabulous jazz festival is located in the courtyard of Montalcino's medieval fortress. Bring a jacket since it can get cool even after a long hot day. Or warm up with a couple of glasses of Banfi wine (initiator and main sponsor of the festival).
Members of the Concertgebouw Orchestra from Amsterdam used to host Musica Reale, a chamber music festival in the first week of July. Since summer 2014 the event is on hold due to major restoration works at Montalcino's lovely theater. Check the Musica Reale website for future updates on the festival.
Last but not least Camigliano - one of the most beautiful hamlets belonging to the municipality of Montalcino - is home to yet another music festival: Camigliano Blues, hold every year on the last weekend of July or first weekend of August.

MONTALCINO JAZZ & WINE: PROGRAM 2014

2014-06-23T08:43:00.000+02:00

(Looking for the program of Jazz & Wine 2015? Read on here.)

Montalcino Jazz & Wine is in its 17th year and as usual the festival opens up at Castello Banfi, the initiator and main sponsor of the event. After the first two nights in the courtyard of the American Brunello winery, the concerts will take place in Montalcino's medieval fortress in the town center.

The great Danilo Perez ready to jam it in Montalcino this year

Starting off with two Italian gigs at the Banfi winery, the festival works its way up to 'The Children of the Light', the trio of pianist and Grammy award winner Danilo Perez and closes with British jazz funk band Incognito.

MONTALCINO JAZZ AND WINE 2014

Courtyard of Castello Banfi (former Castello Poggio alle Mura)
Aspettando il jazz - waiting for Jazz &Wine

July 10

FABIO MARIANI – GIPSY THREE

July 15

DEIDDA BROTHERS plus A. SRIANO e P. BISOGNO

Fortress in Montalcino
July 16

6 IN JAZZ - TRIBUTE To LUCIO BATTISTI

July 17

CHILDREN OF THE LIGHT - DANILO PEREZ TRIO

July 18

THE BAD PLUS

July 19

HERBIE GOINS & MAURO ZAZZARINI BLUES INN

July 20

INCOGNITO

TICKETS MONTALCINO JAZZ & WINE

Ticket prices: 15 Euro (20 Euro for Incognito - the last concert).

You don't need a reservation for the concerts at the fortress (plenty of space available), but you may want to book to have a table all to yourselves. Drop in at Montalcino's tourist office in piazza Padella, call beforehand +39 0577 849 331 or email info@prolocomontalcino.com.

Concerts start at 9.45 pm. Arrive early to have a small bite to eat (prepared by Montalcino's neighborhoods) or fine dine in one of my favorite restaurants. Remember to bring warm clothes, since summer nights can be surprisingly cool and windy up at the fortress. Blankets are available in case you forgot your jumper. Or just warm up with tasting your way through the selection of Banfi wines available all through the concerts; start with their Brut, a fine sparkling wine produced in Northern Italy and finish with their Brunello Poggio alle Mura or Brunello Riserva Poggio all'Oro .

A WINE BUYER'S GUIDE TO BRUNELLO 2009 & BRUNELLO RISERVA 2008

2014-06-13T22:58:00.001+02:00

It's one thing to bring back a bottle of wine as a souvenir from Montalcino, and it's another to buy a case of Brunello to store away for the next five, ten or twenty years. In a vintage with the hot weather conditions of 2009 differences between Sangiovese grapes harvested and Brunello produced in Montalcino's wineries has been very marked. Many of the wines - notably the ones from the lower lying vineyards in the south west - are unlikely to last in time (but are all the more ready to be enjoyed right away).

Tim Atkin's Brunello Report is a good place to start for some advice on which wines to buy for early drinking and which ones for piling up in your cellar. I've reviewed his Brunello Special Report 2008 last year and extremely liked Tim's in-depth approach to the judging of Montalcino's wine. His Brunello reports give you the wine writer's ratings (if you are into numbers), but also a lot of background information to understand the reasons behind the scores and the history of Brunello wine.

TIM ATKIN: BRUNELLO 2009 SPECIAL REPORT

As a prolific writer and master of wine, Tim has visited Montalcino for the last twenty years for the annual Benvenuto Brunello wine fair to taste the latest vintages released and to visit the wineries in person.

Price of the pdf download: 10£ (or 12€ / 17$)

WHAT ELSE?

Planning to buy wines from older vintages too? Read my detailed review of Tim's special report about the 2008 Brunello vintage and 2007 Brunello Riserva.

Watch a short interview from the Benvenuto Brunello tasting for more expert views (including Tim's) on the 2009 vintage.

All you were looking for is a good looking vineyard? Read about my favorite ten winery visits in Montalcino.

What to bring? Check my February in Montalcino photo guide.

MUSEUM NIGHT IN MONTALCINO: SATURDAY MAY 17, 2014

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Splashed out your travel budget on bottles of Brunello? Montalcino's museum joins the European museum night and opens its doors for free. On Saturday night you can visit the museum in the former Sant'Agostino monastery for a low-budget stroll through the beautiful collection of Sienese and Renaissance tryptichs, wooden sculptures and the small but lovely archaeological section on the first floor

MONTALCINO MUSEUM NIGHT 2014
Saturday May 17, 9 pm to 11 pm - Free entrance
For regular opening times and ticket prices read the info on the website of Montalcino's tourist office.
Or read Siena - Map It Out for more free museum night options in Siena.

12 MONTHS OF BRUNELLO: APRIL IN MONTALCINO

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The first week of April is the one time of spring that you don't want to be in Montalcino - or in any Italian wine town for that matter - since the majority of the country's winemakers won't be found in their vineyards but in Verona at Vinitaly, the Superbowl of Italian wine fairs.

For the rest of the month do come out. Above all if you're not just a wine drinker but also a hobby photographer, watercolorist, hiker or wildflower lover. Val d'Orcia in April is the proverbial explosion of colors, which will have its climax in May before the landscape turns into hues of Sienna in the month of June.

GOOD TO KNOW

Bring an umbrella. April is one of the rainiest months in Tuscany (hence all the colors). And if you can, avoid Easter in Montalcino - Brunello town is a popular weekend destination for Northern Europeans and Italians who spend Pasqua away from home. Montalcino's town center and the famous Sant'Antimo abbey get very busy during the religious festivity and worst of all - wineries are closed.

NOTE FOR APRIL 2015: as an exemption to the rule Vinitaly will happen from March 22 to March 25 in 2015, so as to give everybody enough time to get ready for the Expo in Milan, which opens its doors on the 1st of May to the 31st October 2015.

DIGITAL INVASION IN MONTALCINO AND PIENZA's MUSEUMS: APRIL/MAY 2014

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If you're desperate to take some decent photos in Val d'Orcia's museums (normally a no-go), you better check out the Invasioni Digitali visits this spring. Organized for the first time last year, the 'invasion' of Italy's museums and spreading of their content on every available social media platform has turned into a true grassroots movement. For the 2014 edition hundreds of dates are available all through Italy and Europe (with a few events already happening on other continents).

DIGITAL INVASION IN THE MUSEUMS OF MONTALCINO AND PIENZA

In the province of Siena the program has been put together by the museum angels (voluntary workers) of Siena's museum foundation. Just show up in town and join the digital museum visitors on Wednesday April 30 at 10 am in Montalcino, or on Sunday May 4 at the Palazzo Borgia museum in Pienza (more info on the events on facebook).

Not in the Val d'Orcia? You're still in time to read up about the ideas behind the movement so as to organize your own digital invasion.

WINE TASTING AT THE BRUNELLO MUSEUM

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WINE TASTING AT THE BRUNELLO MUSEUM
On seven Saturdays all through April and May, the Brunello museum hosts wine tastings of selected Montalcino wineries. Visit the museum's exhibition which concentrates on the wine town's history and the tools of the artisans, which used to make Montalcino's fame through the centuries before Brunello came along.
Saturday afternoons from 2.30 pm to 6 pm. Tickets for museum admission and Brunello wine tasting 10 € per person. (Note to the budget traveler: this is a great deal, considering that you'll get to taste each time wines from 4 different Brunello wineries).

TAILOR-MADE IN MONTALCINO: SARTORIA PRINCIPE

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In a town where most peopble live on Brunello, it's a relief to see that some still don't. When the flower shop on Montalcino's main square closed down over a year ago, everybody expected that yet another wine shop was about to be opened. But instead of cases of wine, two beautiful old Singer sewing machines were unpacked and bales of prime Italian fabric were delivered.

Twenty years ago every Italian town used to have a tailor on the main street. One of my favorite ones can still be found in Umbria, where Sartoria Trabalza has managed to resist the tide of globalization on Bevagna's beautiful town square. And thanks to Renata Prinicipe's artisan spirit another one has just been born in Montalcino. Craftswomenship has been running through her family for generations, and from clothes to table linens every single piece in the shop is handmade by Renata, her sister and her mom.

The textiles at Sartoria Principe range from Tuscan classics like the famous Busatti fabrics to finest Italian cloth produced with silk, cashmere or merino wool. One of the things I keep saving up for are the shawls and ponchos made with alpaca fleece, which isn't imported from South America, but sourced from a heard of alpaca, which is happily grazing on the slopes of nearby mount Amiata (the extinct volcano co-responsible for Montalcino's ideal micro-climate for fine wines).

Sartoria Prinicpe has a great selection of ready to wear pieces at their shop next to La Fiaschetteria (Montalcino's Art Nouveau wine and coffee bar on the main square). Made to measure will obviously take a bit longer, but can be sent overseas if you don't have time to come back for another glass of Brunello.

SARTORIA PRINCIPE
piazza del Popolo 2, Montalcino. Phone: +39 0577 84 95 50 Email: sartoria.principe@gmail.com
Open daily in high season (also during lunch hour) and from 9.30 am - 1 pm and 4 pm to 7.20 pm in winter.

Readers of Map It Out - Montalcino get a 10% discount in Renata's shop (mention Map It Out before paying). And husbands and kids are welcome to do some people watching from the shop whilst you try on your new Italian cashmere shawl or leather belt.