Marie Antoinette's Gossip Guide to the 18th Century

Marie Antoinette and Georgiana Duchess of Devonshire, friends and trendsetters

2013-05-10T15:05:00.000-04:00

Meghan asked...

Now that I'm reading "Georgiana: Duchess of Devonshire" after reading "Queen of Fashion" there has been a question nagging at me: Who wore the pouf first--Marie-Antoinette or Georgiana? In "Georgiana" it says she was the first to wear the "three-foot tower" and the first to wear ostrich feathers, but I thought Antoinette did it first. Or is it that Georgiana was the first to introduce the styles specifically in England? I feel like they can't have independently and simultaneously come up with the idea.
Anyone know?

Heather and I put our thoughts together on this one for you!

François Hubert Drouais, Marie Rinteau, called Mademoiselle de Verrières. 1761, oil on canvas. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Before Marie Antoinette was Queen the style of hair for ladies had already started to grow (upwards that is). Here are portraits done in 1761 and 1769 for example. When Marie took the (fashion) wheel in France it was popular for hair to be piled up on the head, with large curls in the back.

Jean Honoré Fragonard, A Woman with a Dog. 1769, oil on canvas. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

A Pouf was known as such because of the large variety and number of items it could hold! A big cushion for art! A popular theme of a pouf was aux sentiments because the objects it held were what the wearer liked best. A reflection of the 'poufee' if you will.

These hair styles had the power to convey very important (and not so important) messages, sometimes even political messages. The style below was created for Marie Antoinette by Leonard in celebration of the French victory in the bataille d’Ouessant.

Marie Antoinette's Coiffure de l'indépendance ou Le triomphe de la liberté. Franco-American Museum at the Chateau de Blérancourt.

Hair with a message = Antoinette

It was these various pouf styles that were being discovered and pioneered by our favorite duo, Antoinette and Georgiana.

Feathers in the hair was an established trend, but an ambassador from France brought Georgiana a big full feather and she took it upon herself to make popular huge ostrich feathers in the late 70's.
English hair was tall and Georgie pioneered the ever-so difficult three tower pouf.

Satirical Print, A hint to the ladies to take care of their heads. 1776, mezzotint. The British Museum.

Huge tall hair = Georgiana

French hair was tall, but not as tall, however it held innumerable scenes of art and the craftsmanship was incredible.

Phaetona or Modern Female Taste, Published by M. Darly. Nov. 6, 1776, etching and engraving. British Museum.

The image of ladies sitting on the floor of carriages was Georgie's doing, and there is the incredible story of a pouf Antoinette had made for a party, but it had to be taken down so that she could enter the doorway of the soiree! Once she got through the door they had to rebuild it.

Lauren & Heather

18th century chamber music by Danzi

2013-04-22T10:09:00.000-04:00

Adolph Menzel, Frederick the Great Gives a Flute Concert in Sanssouci. 1850-1852. Alte Nationalgalerie.

Enjoy 30 minutes of 18th century chamber music composed by Franz Ignaz Danzi (1763 – 1826). Chamber music is composed for and preformed by a small group of musicians that could fit easily into a chamber (hence the name!) Below is Danzi's Wind Quintet Opus 67, Nos. 2-3 performed by the Soni Ventorum Wind Quintet.

Secrets of an 18th century table

2013-04-15T09:44:00.000-04:00

The Metropolitan Museum of art has a wonderful collection of 18th century furniture, which you can admire from the galleries. But some furniture has more to offer than a single function and the museum has shared a video showing the secret behind one such table. This is an 18th century game table in action! (watch the video it is amazing!)

Out of the Salon!

2013-04-08T09:50:00.000-04:00

Doing a little bit of travel to London and Edinburgh for the next two weeks. (vacation...conferencing...pub crawling...etc...) I was going to try to use the 'blogging' app on my phone (just incase I come across somethign awesome and have to share it!) but I am not sure how well it will work. I had no luck using the Nike+ app on my phone so I am not feeling too optimistic. I will be updating on twitter though!

Until then!

Joyeux anniversaire to Jean-Honoré Fragonard!

2013-04-05T10:02:00.002-04:00

To mark the birthday of Jean-Honoré Fragonard, I thought we could take a look back at some fun posts about the famous artist who worked throughout the eighteenth century.

Read about the internship/job market (in the 18th century of course) How Fragonard got started in the art world.

Oh, for modesty's sake! Take a look at The New Model as she bears all for a first time sitting.

Mythology impresses with Fragonard's Fantastic Figures

Learn about how Fragonard's business savvy got him through hard times.

The Stolen Kiss in detail...

One of my favorite works by the artist is the beautiful, almost dream-perfect The Gardens of the Villa d'Este

One of the most popular series on this blog is about Fragonard's Progress of Love. This is a 4 part series that takes a close look at the paintings originally commissioned for Madame du Barry. Some people find it romantic others tragic...

Favorites: Portrait of Marie Antoinette

2013-04-02T08:43:00.001-04:00

François Dumont, Portrait of the Queen Marie Antoinette with her children. Late 18th century, paint on ivory. Musée du Louvre

I love all the details of this painting, down to Marie Antoinette's blue silky shoes and hat. But what is really interesting (and I do not think you would know by looking at the image...) this portrait is only about 8x5 inches big!

The Diligent Mother

2013-03-23T10:34:00.002-04:00

Jean-Siméon Chardin, The Diligent Mother. 1740, painting. Musée du Louvre.

The Progress of Love: The Love Letters

2013-02-26T14:24:00.000-05:00

The fourth piece to complete Fragonard's The Progress of Love (this title for the series is more recently given) is a piece we now call The Love Letters. If you have not already, check out the other posts in this series, linked at the bottom of this post. This panel may have been located across from The Pursuit and next to The Lover Crowned at Louveciennes. Guest at Louveciennes would see this piece at best when returning from the gardens and entering through the large glass doorway.

Two youths sit in the center of this garden, in a close embrace and wearing soft elegant clothing. The boy's hand is placed in a suggestive spot, so you can imagine the intense sexual attraction between them. Moving up to his face, you will see an passionate gaze fixed only on the young lady. He appears to only see her as she reads through letter after letter, written in his own hand (we can safely assume!). The letters are piled up on the stone pillar next to her, the red sealing wax still attached. She is perched so high on the stone element it would be feasible that he placed her there, and stuck her parasol in the vines to free his hands.

Jean-Honoré Fragonard, European, The Progress of Love (Love Letters). 1771-73, oil on canvas. The Frick Collection.

Flowers spill across the grass around them and a small spaniel sits patiently on the girls side. Dogs in paintings such as this would stand for fidelity, and we can read it as such. So we have a couple, loyal to each other, recalling the past. They are framed by foliage, and sunlight shines through a heart shaped opening, highlighting them. Author Mary Sheriff points out that the couple is perched on and against a pedestal, much like the one the sculptures stand on to their left. Rather than the couple imitating the near by sculptures such as in The Pursuit, they are now truly the focus of the scene, in the spotlight.

The sculpture of Venus appears as Friendship, many see sculpture as dominating the painting. She looms over the scene withholding an object of desire from the little cupid (the heart!). This has been read differently by a variety of historians, and a popular theory is that the girl is only offering friendship now that things have cooled. Is she withholding something from her lover? What do you think?

After a romp in the park with the duc or comtesse you just met, you will be pleased to see The Love Letters on the wall across from you. As you sip down some ratafia you might smile to see the two lovers engage in memories of their past affair. You will, no doubt, blush as you recall your own recent affairs!

The full series:

Historical Influences? Fashion Week 2013

2013-02-14T18:48:00.002-05:00

There are some surprising ensembles coming out of fashion week, and I thought I would share some of those from Oscar de la Renta's collection! Check out the designs that reminds us of 18th century (and earlier!) decorative arts and tapestry!

images from Vogue

Can't have a Revolution if the Music Isn't Right

2013-02-01T19:06:00.000-05:00

Antonie Vestier, Portrait de
François-Joseph Gossec, 1791

Francois Joseph Gossec was a talented musician and his own worst critic. He was born in 1734 and would develop a true talent and passion for symphonies. Unfortunately for the young Gossec, France was not in the market for symphonies. In fact, quite opposite, there was a general disdain for a symphony, and lyrics were in. Le Opera was all the rage.

Gossec turned to writing Operas Comiques. His brief career in the new medium proved short, only two years! His career did not take another turn until 1773 when he became the director of Concert Spirtuel. All the while he was well known, and a very strong composer.

In his new position he wrote music for the church, and experienced success. He had never been truly unsuccessful, but because he was not producing grand symphonies, he never felt fully accomplished. His Grand Messe des Morts was written in 1760 and remained popular for decades. He continued to work on tragédies-lyrique which were operas on serious subjects.

In 1774 he wrote a historical opera, Sabinus. It was a hit! It premiered in Paris and was all people talked about, for two short months. Gluck had soon after premiered his Iphigénie en Aulide, instantly pushing Sabinus down the charts. Bittersweet.

Possibly by Jacques-Louis David, Gossec. Via

At the end of 1789 there was a demand to commemorate the Bastille with a festival. the National Festival of the Federation was planned to be held on July 14, 1790. Still known for his Concert Spirituel he was picked to compose a piece for the Thanksgiving Mass to be held the day of the festival. He composed Le Triomphe De La République. Although he was not writing his beloved symphonies he enjoyed well known reputation from his pieces composed for the state.

Here are some of his works, recognize any?

Gavotte

Le Triomphe De La République

Grand Messe des Morts

Pride and Prejudice Turns 200 years old

2013-01-27T01:00:00.000-05:00

Seems like a good reason to revisit the book!

A fun fact regarding pride and prejudice:
The now famous miniseries of Pride and Prejudice featured a portrait that Lizzy saw at Pemberly of Mr. Darcy. That portrait was of Colin Firth in his role as Mr. Darcy. Just recently, the actual portrait from the miniseries went up for auction. It was estimated to fetch £7,000 but it actually sold for nearly double that! The painting went to a major fan (had to be, right?) for £12,000!

Marie Antoinette on fashion

2013-01-24T00:00:00.000-05:00

"It is true I am rather taken up with dress; but as to feathers, everyone wears them and it would seem extraordinary if I did not."

In response to a letter from Maria Theresa March, 5 1775

Epiphany in Amsterdam, 1732

2013-01-17T00:00:00.000-05:00

Bernard Picart, Star of the Magi paraded through Amsterdam (Epiphany). 1732, illustration/engraving. The Warburg Institute Library.

About Marie Antoinette

2013-01-15T00:00:00.000-05:00

"[She] made jokes about those in whom she perceived anything ridiculous, without any ill intention, and purely through lightness of heart."

Comte de Mercy

I love this quote, pulled from Marie-Antoinette, Her Early Youth (1770-1774). The Comte followed up his assessement by finding that she made her jokes with a distinct cleverness rendering her witty and the comments piquant!

At seven we play cards till nine

2013-01-10T00:00:00.000-05:00

The ceremonial rituals of daily life at Versailles were demanding, thorough and incredibly important. The 2006 film Marie Antoinette did a nice job recreating these rituals in a glimpse, as a montage of the dauphine waking up, being dressed, and later dinning with her husband. (see video below!)

As a means of recognizing one's rank, traditional rules of etiquette were followed regardless of any inconvenience they may have caused. There were minor rites, and major rites, but all had to do with ensuring privilege.

This way of life at Versailles extended beyond dressing and dinning to leisure activities. Take for instance, playing cards. Marie Antoinette once wrote to her mother that it was part of her week-day routine to to play cards for up to two hours each evening.

Card games held at the palace were a big attraction, and many would turn up dressed and ready to play. Evening card games were popular throughout Europe and as the royal family participated, it became an attractive past time among the ladies and gentlemen at court.

Reproductions of 18th century playing cards (by Pimpernel clothing)

Although there were games open to many ladies and gentlemen, the highest tables were not. The highest card tables were those held in the rooms of the Queen or the Dauphine as well as those of Madame Adelaide. In a letter to her mother, Marie Antoinette mentioned that "when it is fine weather, I go out and walk, and then the card-playing is not in my rooms but in those of my aunts." The players at a table were based on who hosted the game. So if Marie Antoinette hosted a game, only her inner circle of associates could play.

But the games were anything but intimate. Visitors could attend the game to look on and watch its progress. It would be surprising if the members of court playing at these tables did not find the stream of onlookers distracting. To make matters worse, the strangers watching the game could actually place bets on the players!

18th century art: Morning and Night

2013-01-08T00:00:00.000-05:00

Pierre-Antoine Baudoüin, Le Matin (Morning). (French, Paris 1723–1769 Paris) Gouache over traces fo graphite, paper pasted onto board. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Pierre-Antoine Baudoüin, La Nuit (Night). (French, Paris 1723–1769 Paris) Gouache on paper, pasted onto board. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Happy New Year!

2012-12-31T00:00:00.000-05:00

Taking a break from the blog this week to celebrate the new year and, of course, my birthday! I trust there are many, many parties to go to tonight? Is anyone throwing their own?

Happy new year everyone and good luck with your resolutions and whatever else you have planned for 2013! See you soon!
~Lauren

Merry Christmas!

2012-12-25T00:00:00.000-05:00

Merry Christmas to all my readers!

The above picture was taken when I visited Chatsworth with Heather, and it was all decorated for the holiday season. They set up a Christmas table setting in the dining room and it was the most elegant thing...so be inspired! Click the image to see a larger view. I hope everyone has a lovely holiday and a very happy new year!

Best,
Lauren

As "Libertine with his brush as he in his morals"

2012-12-20T00:00:00.000-05:00

Baudouin, Pierre-Antoine, Modele Honnete (The Honest Model). 1769, gouache. National Gallery of Art, DC.

If you like the work of Fragonard, but perfer a little more spice, you will probably like that of Pierre-Antoine Baudoüin. Baudoüin studied under the François Boucher, and ended up marrying the artist's daughter.

Skill-wise, Baudoüin was very talented and worked mostly in gauche. His subjects were saucy boudoir scenes, and everyone wanted them! Like Fragonard, who made what sells, Baudoüin's work was popular with the aristocrats and the non-aristos.

His piece titled "The Honest Model" caused quite a controversy when it was exhibited in 1769. The reception of this work is discussed in The Age of Watteau, Chardin, and Fragonard. It was exhibited with a frame that was inscribed with "What does not poverty compel one to do" a very suggestive message that stirred viewers! Some critics attacked not only the subject of his work (and lack of moral instruction) but also his own behavior, which was apparently, very libertine /fans self

Mother Knows Best: Joseph's visit

2012-12-18T00:00:00.000-05:00

"In a month you will see the Emperor, an interesting epoch for you. You know his kind heart and also his sagacity [wisdom]; from the former you have everything to expect; from the latter everything to gain. I hope that you will confide in him frankly… I hope that he will commend himself to the King; and when the first embarrassment is past, that they will be friends."

Maria Theresa, 2 Janurary1777

More of Mother Knows Best

Also....just for fun....

This is a rather humorous interpretation of Joseph's visit to France!
L'histoire racontée par des chaussettes - Louis XVI

Two Women in an Elegant Interior, 1771

2012-12-13T00:00:00.001-05:00

Pierre Alexandre Wille, Two Women in an Elegant Interior: a Singer Accompanied by a Lutenist. 1771, Pen and brown ink, brush and brown and gray wash, yellow and pink watercolor, over traces of black chalk. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The story of Marie Antoinette, in Legos [video]

2012-12-11T00:00:00.001-05:00

Just stumbled on a history project that tells the story of Marie Antoinette in 3 minutes, all in Legos. Cute!

Holiday Giveaway Winner!

2012-12-09T14:28:00.000-05:00

Congratulations, the winner of the holiday giveaway is commenter #15:

Miss K!

Please contact me with your mailing address at marieantoinettegossip [at] gmail.com!

Thank you all who entered, I loved reading all the great gossip you had to share!

18th century inspired: holiday gifts

2012-12-06T00:00:00.000-05:00

I try to post one of these each year, (a just for fun gift guide post!) when I see something out there that reminds me of the 18th century, I make a note. So here are some things for the home!

Cockerels, Saint-Cloud. 1740, soft-paste porcelain. The Metropolitan Museum of Art..

I actually recieved a similar ceramic chicken recently, but the chicken didn't sit on the 'nest' / base properly. I had to return it at the store (naturally, that was a whole production, involving me being sent back and forth throughout the store while carrying my defected chicken around). Finally the shop ordered a new one to be sent to me. When my second chicken arrived, it was smashed into pieces! I had to being the whole process over. The shop ordered another chicken for me. The third chicken arrived in several pieces too! I gave up on the chicken.

Now I have found this rooster bowl made by Lenox, so the quality should be apparent (unlike my sad chicken). Maybe I should have went with this little guy instead!

Lenox, Butler's Pantry 2-piece Rooster Bowl Set by Lenox.

Jug, Cream, French. ca. 1750, soft-paste porcelain. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The Climbing Primrose creamer sits in spirit of the 1750 cream jug, exept that it is microwave and dishwasher safe! It is part of the primrose tea set, other pieces in the set include a teapot, and sugar bowl (the sugar bowl is so cute!)

Climbing Primrose Creamer

Pitcher, West Midlands, England. 1750-60, stoneware. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

I know we can't see any color in the image of the English pitcher, but the design on it immediately reminded me of Peony server-ware set designed by Molly Hatch currently at Anthropologie. And I think the Chantilly pitcher would agree!

Peony server-ware by Molly Hatch.

Pitcher, Chantilly. ca. 1730-35, Tin-glazed soft-paste porcelain. French. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The Chantilly Pitcher also inspires one to think of the Amazon Dreams Pitcher. Pretty colors and organic design.

Amazon Dreams Pitcher

and finally.....

Joke Wineglass, French. First half 18th century, Glass. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Ok, I LOVE this. Yes, a joke wineglass. I had to post it because, well it is just funny. I am trying to imagine who sat there, in the 18th century, giving their guests this glass....

Of course I couldn't find an exact joke wineglass but this oil and vinegar set is pretty cool and still classy- by Dutch designer Jansen + Co.!

Oil and vinegar by Jansen + Co.

If you have seen any other 'inspired' gift ideas, please share them here!

An ode to Marie Antoinette

2012-12-04T00:00:00.000-05:00

I came across this Christmas tree that is called "An Ode to Marie Antoinette". The tree is one featured at The Fall River Historical Society in Massachusetts, and can be seen covered in beads, feathers, satin ribbons and pearly ornaments.

Have you seen any 18th century inspired trees or decorations in general? Share them here! (poll below)