Mark Chappell's 2.4L 96 GhostAccord ITB Induction Build

KTeller 3" Stainless Exhaust Kit

2015-02-27T15:00:00.000-04:00

Finally....... the rest of my exhaust showed up from KTeller today! :p

3" stainless pipe, Magnaflow resonator and all the hangers. It is a really nice kit they put together. Well worth the wait for sure!

Now, I have a week off before I go back to work. Wonder if I can squeeze some Accord love in there somewhere.......

More Exhaust parts Arrived!

2015-02-06T13:13:00.000-04:00

Surprise FedEx delivery today... 4 days early!

Got my merge collector, flange and flex pipe. Looks like I may get down and do some welding this weekend....

2 years and finally an update......

2015-02-06T13:08:00.001-04:00

Well it's been a long time since I have published a single word in this blog. Well that is because I haven't done much of anything on the Accord in the past year and a half.

I'm here to say that parts are starting to arrive so I can get back to work on this

beast.

3 step stainless header pipes, 3" V-band clamps and muffler have arrived. Due to the never ending snow storms, the rest of the exhaust parts have been delayed.

MegaSquirt3 EMS Update!

2012-10-15T00:22:00.001-03:00

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Well it's been a while so I figured that I may as well post up something new!

Finally got my hands on the EMS that will be running this bad boy.

The MegaSquirtIII w/MS3X board. Love having 8 injector outputs with the software ability to do a dual stage fuel injection. The 8 logic coil drivers aren't too shabby ether. I know I'll only need 4 for this build. However, my 500CID V8 will need 8. ;)

Here is how she came to me...... blank main board and a few components to add to it!

I figured.... I know how to solder, so to order the DIY kit and save $200 would be a bonus.Took me a few minutes to get all of the components sorted out. Once I did it was off to the races.

Stages of progress.....

DB9 and DB37 connectors,

Resistors,

Diodes and capacitors,

Transistors, 2.5bar MAP sensor, LED's and the lower half and ends of the case,

MS3 CPU w/ USB datalog capabilities as well as on board data logging. ;~) I bought a 1G SD card years ago for a camera. Long gone is the camera so now the card has a purpose again....

MS3X board

and lastly the finished unit,

Surprisingly, I was able to solder a couple wires onto my Moates Honda engine simulator and use it to test this beast out...... Software and hardware are both good to go!

I am going to test it out on my 2001 2.0L Mazda Tribute that I currently have as a daily driver.....
This thing will be getting my original GSX-R ITB's, 24lb injectors, CRV coils and a set of CompCams stage 2 Zetec cams.....

Picked up one of these to make the transition between the Zetec head and GSX-R throttles a wee bit easier

Should be a good build up test for the MS3 before it goes into my Accord!

4 into 1

2011-10-03T01:29:00.003-03:00

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Thank you!

I now have all 4 individual throttles and shafts spaced appropriately and operating smoothly. I was fortunate that the original horizontal mounting brackets on the throttles ended up in a vertical orientation. Using the previously drilled mounting holes that were in the brackets. All that was required was 2 x 305mm pieces of threaded rod and 6 precisely measured aluminum spacers.

The 4 throttle bodies are still able to be separated mechanically. I was originally going to have them machined and welded in sets of two. However, I like the fact that they are individual and can be replaced or worked on without any major machine work requirements.

Another bonus is that I was able to get the center line of the throttle body and intake ports to line up within +/- 2mm

I finished up the week having nearly completed fitting the velocity stacks.

As you can see there is still a bit of material to be shaved on each of the center stacks. it is pretty easy work I simply ran out of garage time...... I love my wife for putting up with the time that I am down there getting dirty and making a little noise

xoxo ;~)

Waiting for a few -AN bungs for the intake flange. I think it will be better to weld everything in one go. Saves setup time.....

54mm Throttle Body Update - 2

2011-09-21T14:05:00.001-03:00

Finally took possession of 2 more 54mm throttles and 4x Ducati 999s intake manifolds this week. That puts my count to 4 complete throttles and now it is time to start the manifold fabrication process.

Here is what I have to work with now.

• 2x Injector wire harness complete with Mil spec connectors and air box seals
• 4x 491cc top feed injectors
• 4x shower top velocity stacks
• 4x 54mm Magnetti Marelli throttle bodies
• 4x throttle body manifolds

Also have materials for my throttle body to intake adapter

• 1x 5/8" aluminum plate (manifold flange)
• 1x F22A intake manifold (cut to length for throttle flange)

These next images show the progression of parts, minus the 5/8 adapter plate that will go between the throttle manifolds (black) and F22A manifold flange.

Now it's time to have the throttle shafts machined and cut the aluminum throttle adapter plate to size. Then weld it to the intake flange.......Porting and all the finishing touches after that.

54mm Throttle Body Update!

2011-08-21T01:35:00.004-03:00

As most of you who have been following this blog may know. I was lucky enough to pick up a free PT3 (F22A6) engine. After inspection the head was found to be in perfect working order. So then came the rebuild process as I now needed a new intake adapter for my individual throttle bodies. The PT3 intake ports were much larger than the P0B head that my original throttle bodies were designed for.

Not to say that the 46mm throttles were too small for my original build. However, with the added flow with the new head comes the requirement for a larger throttle plate.

These were a no brainer when it came to updating using a bike throttle body. 54mm throttle bodies should be enough........for now.

I realize that some people may be thinking. With the money that I have spent on all these throttles. I could have bought a set of off the shelf brand name throttles. However, I have still only spent just over $600 on two sets of used throttles and adapter manifolds. That's still 1/3 of a name brand set and $300 cheaper than the rip offs. It's amazing how much you can save when you take the time to learn to design, fabricate and weld. Helps to know a few people as well ;)

The exit port on these throttles is a 95% match to the PT3 intake port. Just the right amount of taper! Anyone familiar with any of Honda's performance intake ports may recognize this shape. Minus the injection port! ;)

They are a much larger throttle in diameter so I have been sent back to the drawing board for a runner design. Picture 4 of these side by side, sorry no pictures yet, I only have two of the 4 so far. Other two are on route.

The shower head w/velocity stack is a much welcome design. The injectors that come with them have a flow rating of 491cc @ 43.5 PSI, and a single stream 15° spray pattern. As a secondary injector, they should help in the higher rpm ranges.

I am currently working on a digital file that I will be sending along with a slab of aluminum to a buddies shop for a trip through his CNC laser table. It will end up as an adapter plate for these throttles. These throttles are not going to end up permanently welded onto runners.

Stay tuned for updates!

The old 46mm throttles will no doubt become part of another build that I have in mind. Maybe an individual throttle, Boosted 2.2L. Possibly into something with a hatch. A straight line machine.

White Housed headlight Update!

2011-08-16T23:20:00.000-03:00

Update to my White housed headlights;

Decided to go blue after all!

Original DIY White housing post

A little more Interior work

2011-07-17T01:35:00.001-03:00

Didn't bother getting any felt material this week. So the resin and flet work will have to wait. Instead I took a few minutes to get some more interior prep work done.

Took on the door panels tonight. They are a two piece design. This will actually make the two tone painting process much easier. I am sticking with the Accords original colour scheme.

Once they were taken apart it was time for some more vinyl and foam removal.

There wasn't as much foam on the door panels as the dash. Therefore it was actually much easier to remove.

Took a few minutes to take the window control panel apart as well.

The controls will be getting a good cleaning and the trim piece will be getting a few coats of paint.

If I have some spare time tomorrow I may get the rear door panels done tomorrow night.

Cheers!

Push Button Start!

2011-07-14T17:08:00.003-03:00

Check this one off the list............

No longer a smoker and this car will not have any need for a 12v output socket. So I figured that this would be as good a place as any for my push button start switch to go.

Started off by removing the cigarette lighter housing and trim piece.

Then I had to file the existing trim piece to fit the PBS finish ring. After a few hours of measuring and filing. I finally got it to fit. There are 3 tabs and 3 key ways on the backside of this ring. It was a rather large PITA!

Once that was done it was onto making the mounting bracket for the PBS switch itself. That was to consist of a few bends in a piece of sheet metal.

Then a few more bends and a couple holes drilled and she's ready for paint.

After that was done it was time to set the two mounting screws (with heads cut off) into the back of the trim piece. The reason for doing this is because the lighter socket and housing were used to sandwich this piece in place in the console.

After adding the epoxy I taped the cover in place. This was done to hold the studs straight and true to the mounting holes while the epoxy dried.

Give it a night for the epoxy and paint to dry and the next day was time for a fitting.

Could have been a bit cleaner, but it's all hidden behind the dash..........

.............. I think it looks pretty good from the front.

May start playing with resin this weekend!

Stay tuned!

Time for some interior work!

2011-07-13T00:02:00.002-03:00

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While I wait for the cash fairy to drop the money off to finish the block. I figured that I would get started on the interior.

Figure the dash is a good spot to start off.

Stripped all of the brackets and vents. Weights in at a whopping 7.2lbs

Then it was skinning time

This was a lot easier than I thought it would be.After about 30 minutes it was completely vinyl free and ready for some sanding and resin.

Had to weigh it just to see... dropped 2lb just from removing the vinyl. However, after I cover up a few unwanted holes and create a custom gauge pod. It will probably end up weighing 10lbs more.
I'm not planning anything too crazy, more function than form.

Stay tuned for more

Clean up time!

2011-06-14T01:04:00.002-03:00

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With the intake and exhaust guides removed I took the opportunity to clean up the ports a little bit more.

Started with the exhaust............still a little bit dirty, not for long!

The F22A6 head really doesn't have much to remove when it came to the valve guide humps. I had the bulk of the guide humps removed fairly quickly.

Took them up to an 80 grit for now.......they will be mirror finish when completed.

The intake had less guide material...

However the port itself was an odd shape. The long radius had a bit of a dead zone directly behind the valve guide.The transition from the throat into the seat has a pretty good step as well.

Once I get a flow bench setup I will spend a bit more time figuring out what to do with that dead zone for now I removed a bit of material from the front of the guide only.

Looks like I may have to add some material to fill that dead spot....only time on the bench will tell.

For now the exhaust ports will get finished and the intake ports will have to wait.

Time to start wet sanding

Little bit of Guide Work

2011-06-12T22:32:00.002-03:00

Cranked up the old oven to 150°C and got the workbench prepared to remove a couple valve guides tonight.

The exhaust side was a bit more work than the intake side. Now I know that if I get into doing this on a regular basis. I will have to invest in an air chisel with a 5.5mm guide bit. Too many trips back and forth to the oven for this cat.

Exhaust side removed....took a few swings of a hammer to get them out. The added surface area on the cylinder head for the exhaust guide acts as a heat sink. This is a good thing for cooling the exhaust valves. Not so good for removing the exhaust guides!

Intake side removed, fairly easily as there is approximately half the surface area to overcome.

All ready for a bit more porting........

Next update should have all these ports ready for a valve job and new guides.

Keep the AFRs low

EPM Finished

2011-06-06T22:05:00.000-03:00

Had some time tonight to finish the EPM cover, stuff the sensor back in and wire up the connector.

Mounted the cam sensor in it's stock location and gave the wires a little bit of added cover.

Next to be put into place is the shaft and rotor, complete with the bearing and stock bearing plate. You can see that the hole is still there for the stock ignitor (ICM). I could have filled it with a piece of aluminum. However, I decided that I wouldn't take the risk of possibly warping the bearing plate by welding anything to it.

In the end it really doesn't matter because the overall cap covers all those holes and the bearing plate. The cap was filed and ground down a bit so that the cover would fit nicely into it.

Final cam sensor complete with a water tight connector taken from my spare GSX-R wire harness.

Even I'm not sure what part of this build I'll jump to next.

Stay tuned to find out!

DIY EPM (Engine Position Module) Take 1

2011-06-03T23:20:00.000-03:00

Took a few hours to get my EPM started today. Last night I spent the night testing the electronics (Stock CYP Sensor) and taking all of the measurements and making all of the required adjustments.

First thing was to move the bearing on the distributor shaft. It had to be pressed approximately 20mm further down onto the shaft. Pulley puller worked like a charm to more the bearing into place. This was done to keep the overall height of the EPM down. I took it as far as I could go without interfering with the CYP sensor.

This sensor will be used as the cam signal in the my two trigger COP setup. So it's really not an engine position module as much as it is a cam position module. The 360° 12 tooth crank pulley (24 tooth 720°) and stock CKP sensor are the other part to complete the EPM.

Now onto the cutting, grinding and filing. If I had access to a machine shop I still probably wouldn't use it. I need to keep up the practice with the hand tools.

Stock P0B F22B2 distributor marked for cutting on the table saw.

Inside shot

Not a bad cut for a 12" 3/32 cut off blade on a cheap table saw. Biggest things was making sure the blade and deck and guide were all square. That took longer than the actual cutting. It only took 2 1/4 passes to get it cut through......5-10minutes tops, cut like a hot knife through butter!

Really didn't have to do much filing to get it level and flat

There was more filing involved after the coil deck was rounded off. It required a step down in order to have a proper sealing surface.

Then it was time to fit the filler piece for that step, just so happened to be just shy of a 1/4". So a cut, rounded and shaved scrap of 1/4" aluminum plate did the trick.

No fancy O-ring grooves so a roughed up surface and some Honda-bond will have to do. Once that was cut and ready to go it was on to cutting down the distributor shaft.

There was quite a bit to cut off. You can see the rest of it laying on the work bench in the background. Shaft and bearing rolls true with the bolts in.

Got the EPM cap, another piece of 1/4" scrap, rough cut and put into the vice for final fitting just before it was time to go. This scrap was going to be an IACV block off plate at one time.....This is a much better use for it!

Little UFI

The stock height of this distributor from the base with the cap, not including the plug boot stacks, was approx, 120-125mm. The total height of my EPM is 45mm. I probably could have gotten it down to 40-35mm but that's cutting it close for the stock sensor sitting inside.

Hope to have the cover and wiring done by the end of the weekend.

Remote Thermostat

2011-05-29T18:22:00.001-03:00

Rain again so I got to spend a little bit of time getting started on my remote thermostat setup. This will be consisting of an F22A PT3 thermostat housing and the F22B P0A thermostat cover. I will be using welded AN fittings on the block, upper rad hose housing, thermostat housing and the radiator.

Doing this will allow me to use the appropriate length of SS braided coolant hoses in place of the steel tube usually used on the back of the block. As well as using it for both the upper and lower rad hoses.

Here are a few pics of the cleanup.

Started off with a dirty rusty A6 housing with all of the coolant hose nipples intact.

Within minutes I was down to threading the old 1/4" nipple outlets for plugs and removing the 3/4" inlet hose fitting to make room for a welded -AN bung.

1/8" NTP 27 threads, both of these ports will have plugs in them. Considering I am not going to be using the IACV or FITV. However I decided to thread them just in case I ever need to run a couple -AN coolant lines in the future.

Here are a few shots of it all cleaned up ready for some bungs and plugs!

Mated with the P0A thermostat cover and fan switch. I will probably be replacing the fan switches with plugs as well. I am going to be using the ECU to control the cooling fan along with the electric water pump.

This isn't the -AN fitting that will be welded on, it is only there for representation. ;) That will be a 12-AN fitting and the inlet and outlets for the block, head, rad and housing will be 20-AN. As you can see I am also a few 1/8" plugs short. I used up the ones that I had on my -AN fuel setup. Updates on that to come soon!

Back at it again!

2011-05-27T10:46:00.001-03:00

It's been a while since I felt like digging up dirt. So here we go. Seems as though my good old friend at Gen5 is trying to suck more people into buying another light weight crank pulley. Posted on the websites front page is a writeup about how the last one ran into some unforeseen difficulties. More like lies lies lies and poor business ethics is what it really ran into!

On another note, I like that the members forum has been down for well over a month for maintenance that was supposed to be completed in just a few days. Hopefully people will start to see through the BS and opt for quality over quantity.

Go to a shop that has a reputation for doing good work, not just cheap prices & parts. In times like these it's sometimes hard to go with quality. Every dollar goes a long way. However, Don't let this guy take your hard earned money and run with it. You could probably do the work better yourselves.

Just wanted to remind those frequent viewers that this is what the BBB gave their automotive store for a rating.

Thanks for taking the time to read my blog. Have a great weekend.

More rain in the forecast, more work on the car is a definite possibility.

Stay tuned for more updates soon!

F22A6 Port Cleaning Take 2

2011-05-21T20:02:00.001-03:00

Rain Rain Rain and more rain....... so I decided to spend the afternoon working on my exhaust ports.

I opened them up at the outlet about 2mm, didn't touch anything else other than cleaning up the casing shift lines with a 180 grit cartridge roll.

The valves for the exhaust are going to be 1mm oversize, 30mm. I will end up having to blend the new valve seat again after it has been replaced and cut to the new size.

For now I am content with the way the ports are shaped so I went ahead and polished them. After the initial carbide bur shaping/enlarging and the 180 grit cartridge roll, there were a few more steps to get to this;

Another 220 cartridge roll on the die grinder then it was on to hand polishing. Wet/dry 320, 400, 1000 then 2000 grit. Finished off with a hand buff with green rouge then finally a white rouge.

There are a few light spots the could use some touch-ups but I think this should do.

So now in addition to having the intake ports with a rough textured surface to promote good flow. I have the rest completely polished to promote cooler combustion chamber temperatures. Heat will be reflected out the exhaust ports. Polished pistons and combustion chambers in conjunction with the exhaust ports will help maintain the temperature of the exhaust gases further out the exhaust track. In turn hopefully increasing the exhaust velocity and increase the scavenging effect. We'll have to wait and see..... Also it will reduce carbon buildup.

Piston Tops

Combustion Chambers

Exhaust Ports

Stay tuned for more......

PCV Air Pump

2011-04-26T15:39:00.003-03:00

Well I took some time off from the porting to let some of the aluminum dust settle. Also to give my compressor a little bit of a break.

A rainy day and all I decided to fix the $20 Denso smog pump that I bought a while back. My thoughts are to use it as a mechanical crank case ventilation system. Considering there probably isn't going to be enough vacuum to do it as per usual.

Used a puller and got the thing opened up, it was a little rusty around the edges. After a bit of cleaning it was as good as new.

Pulled it completely apart to give it a thorough going over.

Gave the inside a quick wipe down. Didn't want to use anything to abrasive and remove any material. I wasn't able to find any way to adjust the clearances of the impeller blades.

All cleaned up!

Found that it was the front bearing that was a bit messed up.

I don't think it was the original one ether. Looks like it was a quick fix. The seal on the back side of the bearing was dented. I removed the seal and a few of the retainers were slightly crushed. So I'll pay the $5 for a new bearing and press it in. Hopefully that will be the fix to my $20 PCV pump.

Mounting this pump under the alternator using the A/C bracket will be the next step for this system.

F22A6 Port Cleaning

2011-04-25T03:17:00.003-03:00

Today I spent a few hours cleaning up the F22A's intake ports. They really look a bit on the angry side and just a little bit cleaner than they were.....

Before;

After;

I didn't do much re-shaping work to them other than widening the injector valley for the DSMs wider V spray pattern.

Even the valve guides are tucked up in there nice and neat.

There was quite a bit of work to do to blend the seat and get rid of the casting marks running down the sides of the ports. There was also one in the center of the short turn just before each valve seat??????............. Gone now!

Hope to get at the exhaust ports tomorrow. I'm thinking that they might be a bit small. Might open the port up a mm or two. Nothing to big...... get some flow numbers and then make any real adjustments....

Stay tuned!

Individual Throttle Bodies V2

2011-04-24T10:18:00.003-03:00

Well it's been a while and I figured that I should update this blog. During this recent absence my build has taken a slight deviation. I was finally persuaded to go with an F22A head when I had this given to me.

It is an F22A6 with a P12 intake manifold on it. Not a big deal as I really don't need the A6 intake secondaries anyway. ;)

The head had 1 bent valve. Turns out that there was no other damage to the head.

These intake ports look a lot more inviting than the B2 ports ever did.

The exhaust ports need a little bit of work but with the straight through design they don't need 1/4 the time the B2 head needed. The B2 head with all of the work done. Still wouldn't have had the flow that these will have with a mild port cleanup.

The F22A6 block on the other hand.......

It had a broken rod and some damage to the underside of the cylinder bore and the crank rod journal. Nothing that a little bit of work can't fix. A weld here and an offset there, next project ;)

For now it will be used as an empty mock-up engine for arranging hoses, fittings and wires in the bay.

Now onto the V2 throttles.........
With a new F22A head comes the need for a new F22A intake flange for my throttles.

It was with great sadness that I marked........

........and then cut my old manifold.

However, It was with great excitement that I cut up the F22A (P12) intake to make the flange for the new head.

That is as far as I was able to get so far.

TIG welding and port cleanup coming soon!

An update on the worst customer service

2010-12-15T07:31:00.002-04:00

I posted this on the Gen5 web forum and have yet to receive any form of reply from Kevin or the staff at Gen5.

"He won't answer my messages or my phone calls. So I'm back to contacting him via public means. As I am unable to make comments on the Gen5Alive facebook page anymore. I must resort to the Gen5 site.

Kevin you said my parts were being shipped out by the 15th of October.

Remember?

Just wondering if there is any word on there whereabouts?

A valid USPS tracking number would work.

Cheers"

Well at least the Better Business Bureau has finally caught up with him. They have given his store the lowest rating it could possibly have, an F

BBB Business Review of Gen5Alive - Automobile Parts and Supplies Retail - Norwalk, CA

Unfortunately this doesn't seem to make any difference in the way in which he conducts his business.

Time for some shaving!

2010-06-29T02:06:00.003-03:00

Shaved Doors
Finally took some time on a rainy day to get some work done. I started by removing the door handles from both the front and rear doors.

The front was a wee bit harder to pull out than the rear as it had what seemed to be a safety mechanism around the lock cylinder.

Once both of the handles were removed it was time to swap the opening mechanisms.

The one on the top is the rear door handle and the bottom is the front. You can see that the rear door handle uses a metal plate to push down on the rear door opening mechanism. Where as the front handle operates with a rod that is connected to the handle.

This is a better picture of the two different operating mechanisms once they were removed from the handles. The handles themselves are identical, so swapping the mechanisms was fairly easy. Here is the rear door handle with the front handle opening mechanism swap completed.

The actual mounting holes in the doors for the two handles are not the same. I forgot to take pictures. What I had to do was weld a small tab on the existing mounts to extend the surface area. Once welded on I drilled the new mounting holes and it was easy sailing from there.

Now with the front door lock, technically shaved it was on to shaving the rear door handle.

There was a bit more work to do here than there was on the front. Cleaned up the paint around the opening so I would have a good clean weld.

I then proceeded to make a paper template and traced it onto a piece of sheet metal. Cut the shape out and contoured it to the existing body lines.

I took a few trips to the grinding wheel to shave off a little here and a little there until I got it fitting flush with the existing door panel. Once it was sitting pretty it was time to weld it in place.

Now it's time to do the same to the other side.

Active Spoiler Modification Take 2

2010-04-23T00:09:00.003-03:00

I couldn't wait to get this project finished. Spent a few hours down in the garage today to get it finished up.

Here is a shot with both struts and mounts in place. Almost ready for the spoiler.

Once I had them both lined up it was time for a test fitting. When I had the spoiler mocked up. I was able to see that the spoiler mounts needed a slight modification.

To the grinding wheel I went. Once I had it roughly were I wanted it with the grinder I leveled them with a file.

Once I had the mounts leveled It was a lot easier to attach them to the spoiler.
Here they are securely mounted to the underside of the spoiler.

Now it was time to make the final adjustments on the transmission cables and sleeves, one of the steel sleeves had to be curved a wee bit to get it to work freely.

Time for a manual test.

Flush mounted, this will be the ride height under 45-50mph

And fully raised.

The fully raised position is where it will be when the spoiler ECU sees that my Accord is going over 45-50mph. With the flip of a switch I will be able to manually raise and lower it to any height in between.

A few more shots of it in the down position.

I will finish welding in the side panels for the drops another day.

Hope to have a video up as soon as I get the welding complete and all of the wiring hooked up.

Active Spoiler Modification Take 1!

2010-04-21T21:06:00.004-03:00

Today I got a chance to start on my active spoiler modification. This spoiler is speed activated. It will change it's pitch depending on the speed of the vehicle. this should create a larger down force on the back of the car. Exactly how much down force it will create on my Accord is unknown. It may end up creating drag and be completely useless. I'm not really concerned with the aerodynamic properties right now. I saw it and figured that I had to give it a try myself.

Pictured below is the Volkswagen Corrado active spoiler motor and transmission assembly. Along with the fiberglass spoiler that I will be using.

Fist thing was to mark and cut the trunk. I quickly realized that if I want the spoiler to lay flush with the trunk surface while it is in the down position. I have to create a drop/step in the OEM trunk.

After everything was marked out and lined up. It was time to cut and bend the steps into the trunk lid.

Here is a look from the underside of the trunk lid.

I had already removed a lot of the cross bracing from the underside when I shaved the license plate recess. The picture shows how the OEM down brace on the trunk is in the way of fitting the spoiler motor mount. That was easily remedied by cutting a section out or the brace and welding the spoiler motor mount directly to the remaining bracing.

After having the spoiler motor mount securely welded into position. It was time to mount the spoiler transmissions and struts.

Had to make a template of the transmissions in order to drill the mounting holes and strut opening. Once the templates were on and lined up it was just a matter of drilling everything out.

Then it was time to check everything out and make sure it all fit and operated properly without any obstructions. Everything bolted up rather nicely.

and the struts and spoiler mounts moved up and down without any dragging or obstructions.

With the one side pretty much completed the other side shouldn't take quite as long to finish. I should be able to get started on mounting the struts to the spoiler very soon. The only thing left to do on the trunk lid is to weld in a couple of side panels on the step-down. I'm going to leave that until the very end. That way I will have an access hole to see the mount under the spoiler when it is flush to the trunks surface.

Cheers!