Massachusetts Day Hiker

Quechee Gorge

2011-10-10T18:25:00.002-04:00

OK, it hardly counts as a hike because Kevin and I got out of the car, walked halfway across the bridge that crosses the gorge, walked a quarter-mile of the trail to the bottom of the gorge, got stopped by an orange plastic fence and a "Keep Out" sign, and dragged ourselves back to the top and got back in the car. A good portion of the trail, and a noticeable amount of soil along the banks of the river, had been washed away by the recent flooding. Everything was generally damp and muddy and not very pretty.

I would love to go back on a) a day cooler than 85 degrees, b) a day that is not the beginning of a foliage season holiday weekend and c) a time when we could wander all the trails. This weekend it was just one stop on a long apple-picking and family-visiting adventure.

Nonetheless, Quechee Gorge is very impressive. Or maybe I'm just a nerd for rocks. When I was a kid, my uncle got me a rock tumbler, so my dad bought me a full-sized rock hammer. (I say that as if someone makes rock hammers specially sized for 9-year-old girls with purple backpacks, but I do not believe those are currently available.) We used to take walks through various trails and parks near home and I would collect a bag full of rocks, or chisel out bits that looked interesting.

I managed to do this for several years without learning anything about geology, except how to identify quartz. The best way to identify quartz is to go outside in New England and point at a rock. There is about an 80% chance you are pointing to some kind of quartz. At least that's how I remember it.

So, considering the views obstructed by tourists and the fact that my ample common sense (read: fear of heights) prevented me from seeing much over the bridge railing, I have to take the state of Vermont's word for it that the gorge was formed by glacial activity.

Even as a quick road-trip stop, the gorge was worth seeing, but it definitely deserves more time on another trip.

Back to Leominster State Forest

2011-10-10T18:07:00.000-04:00

Last week, my brother met me at work and we drove back to Leominster State Forest. I figure there are only a few more weeks before the sun starts setting too early for afternoon hikes, and I am trying to get in some extra time in the woods before winter sets in. Plus, I love Leominster State Forest because it's so close to home, and it's so easy to feel lost in the woods.

This time, we started off on Wolf Rock Trail, hiking east toward Rocky Pond Road. The trails in this part of the forest were a little better maintained than Ball Hill Trail I took last time. There was a set of logs laid across a low, wet part of the trail, and a boardwalk on another section. The trail is still more rocks than soil and Sean and I felt like we were cheated out of some nice scenery by watching our feet the whole trip.

I wish I could tell you which trail we were on at that point, but I couldn’t figure it out, even with the map in my hand. From Wolf Rock Trail, we took a sharp left up a hill and took a beautiful hike up through fields of ferns, and then came down a steep, boulder-strewn slope. It may have been Berry Hill Trail.

I’m glad Sean grabbed the bug spray, because there were some serious mosquitoes down by the water. But all things considered, this was an excellent after-work hike.

Total time: 50 minutes

Book Review – Turn Right at Machu Picchu

2011-10-01T15:40:00.000-04:00

After years of working as a travel writer, Mark Adams decided to follow the route of early-twentieth-century explorer Hiram Bingham through Peru to Machu Picchu. Bingham, sponsored by Yale University and the National Geographic Foundation, was considered the discoverer of Machu Picchu after his first trip in 1911 (despite the facts that farmers were growing crops on the site when he arrived).

Machu Picchu has been a place of conflict and mystery from the 1600s when Incas fled there to escape Spanish conquistadors up to the present day. What was its purpose? Did Hiram Bingham steal artifacts that are now part of Yale University’s collection? Who owns the land on which Machu Picchu sits? Adams’ book is thoroughly researched and explores many of the major theories about Machu Picchu, although some mysteries remain unresolved.

While the historical parts of the book were interesting, the best parts described the trip itself. Adams has decided that he wants to retrace Hiram Bingham’s expedition, and in his initial meeting with his guide, John Lievers, he throws out the idea of hiking the Inca Trail. From this starting point, Lievers rattles off a suggested route for a one-month hike that sounds intimidating, if not impossible.

They set off from the city of Cusco, Peru with a crew of four local men, six mules, and a giant bag of coca leaves, which are used in Peru to treat the symptoms of altitude sickness.

Adams is thrown into the world of the serious outdoorsman with little hiking or camping experience, which makes for an entertaining book. Some stories are hilarious and others are wince-inducing, like the day he learned to wear two pairs of socks under his boots after destroying his toes on a long downhill hike.

By the end, Adams reaches Machu Picchu, appreciates the spectacular architecture and astronomical alignments, pooh-poohs the mystical attraction that draws pilgrims from all over the world to the site’s New Age energies, and climbs Huayna Picchu, a mountain peak at the north end of Machu Picchu to see the sun rise over the ruins.

I don’t love the idea that it took one expert guide, six mules and a four-man team to get Adams to Machu Picchu, because I like my adventures a little more self-sufficient. But it was an entertaining read and although the historical exploration isn’t really my thing, I learned some stuff about the politics of discovery.

Did the book inspire me to book a ticket to Peru? No. But it did made me think that maybe I won’t wait until I’m turning 41 like Mark Adams to take off and have more adventures.

Leominster State Forest - September

2011-09-26T20:47:00.000-04:00

The second weekend in September, we hiked the Ball Hill Trail at Leominster State Forest. It is about 30 minutes from Worcester, up I-190, with plenty of parking along Route 31 in Westminster. The location is convenient, with a picnic area by the pond, a swimming beach at Crow Hill Pond and trail maps available at the parking lot. I am glad we took a trail map, because the maps posted on the trail were outdated.

Ball Hill Trail is a bit more than 4 miles long, and begins and ends at the parking lot near the beach. It has an elevation gain of 400 feet, and some parts of the trail are fairly steep.

We found the trail poorly maintained, with ferns growing close to the sides of the trail and much of the soil washed out among the rocks in the hilly sections. We also encountered a lot of water on the trail, both in mud puddles and trickling across our path. I had encountered this problem here before during the spring, but didn’t anticipate how much water the week's rain would leave on the trail. We came out with muddy shoes and legs, and damp socks.

The trail crosses at least 6 stone walls and passes through some pretty clearings full of ferns and some interesting boulders. I wondered what the land was used for before it became part of the state forest. The coolest part of this hike was seeing toads hopping across the trail at regular intervals on some of the low parts of the trail.

According to the Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation, Leominster State Forest covers 4,300 acres of land and there are many more trails to explore. Although there is a fee for parking in paved lots during the peak season, parking is free between after Labor Day and before Memorial Day. This makes it an especially appealing hike in the cooler fall and spring months. The forest is also open to snowmobilers and cross-country skiers in the snowy months.

Bring water, bug spray, and a bathing suit and towel if you want to swim in the pond. The water looked a little murky, but there were people swimming and sitting on the sandy beach when we finished our hike.

Total time: 2 and a half hours

Purgatory Chasm - Labor Day Weekend

2011-09-25T20:07:00.004-04:00

OK, so maybe choosing a location rated 4.5 stars on Yelp and Google for a Labor Day weekend hike was short-sighted. Purgatory Chasm State Reservation in Sutton, MA, comprises 3.25 miles of trails, including the .25-mile Chasm Loop Trail that runs through the chasm itself. On the Sunday before Labor Day, the Chasm Loop trail was mobbed, but the other trails were lovely.

I had happy memories of my previous trip to Purgatory Chasm, making my way through the chasm, climbing over boulders and through narrow openings. I am far from a rock-climber, but I managed to scramble over some of the larger rocks and pick my way among smaller rocks on the trail through the chasm with little difficulty. On my first trip, I finished the hike with a sense of pride and a few minor scrapes from slippery rocks and minor missteps.

Our recent trip was another story. There was plenty of parking in the lot and many family groups at the playground and pavilion around the chasm. Once we got into the chasm, though, we hit a major traffic jam. My boyfriend and I took different routes through the initial obstacles, each hoping to find a way past the herd of parents and children and leave the crowd behind. No luck.

We retraced our steps out of the chasm and took the other leg of the Chasm Loop Trail, which runs above the chasm and provides great views of the rock formations. It was much less crowded and comfortably cool as we hiked into the trees. Heading off the main trail to the colorfully-named Devil's Corn Crib and Fat Man's Misery, I was impressed by the view, especially the tree roots clinging to the rock ledge.

At the end of the chasm, we joined the Charley's Loop trail and headed back along the opposite side of the rock ledge, enjoying viewpoints including Lover's Leap and Devil's Pulpit.

Parts of the trail are steep, but the trail is relatively even. There are sections where you need to climb over rocks on the trail or use a series of stone steps to navigate a slope. There are many places where you can step off the trail to appreciate the view and catch your breath.

This hike is a great trip for individuals, adult groups or families. I loved seeing fathers encouraging their young daughters to scramble over rocks. Personally, I wouldn't advise children to climb the large rock slope in the parking lot and slide down on their butts, but many parents were helping their kids to do so. The rock formations on the Chasm Loop Trail provide varying levels of challenge. Choose your own adventure by going over, around or through the tumbled boulders.

This is a great hike in spring, summer and fall. Choose a dry day to avoid slippery rocks. Even in the summer heat, the rocks stay cool and many of the trails are shaded.

Bring water in a hands-free container if you have one, or plan to pass it off to a friend while you tackle some of the more challenging parts of the Chasm Loop Trail. Boots aren't necessary for this hike, but make sure your sneakers have good tread. Sunscreen is always recommended, but not imperative on this trip. Same for bug spray; we had no major insect problems. Pack a picnic lunch to eat at the picnic tables near the parking lot, or under the pavilion.

Total time: 1 and a half hours