Confessions of a Master Gardener

Sage in the garden - it survived the winter!

2012-05-11T13:26:00.000-07:00

Sage in my garden - it survived the winter!

Source: flickr.com via ACHS on Pinterest

Spring is Springing!

2012-02-27T13:25:00.002-08:00

I love this time of year - well I get sick of the rain - but the tips of the bulbs peeking out of the soil give me hope that soon my lovely garden will be back in full force!

My to do list this time of year (late Feb) include:
- Cutting back the last of the old growth - I leave most of mine in place to provide seed heads for over-wintering wildlife
- Weeding - getting a jumpstart on the tenacious spring weeks is worth its weight in gold!
- Plotting world garden domination - what to plant! I always have more seeds than I plan so this year I am following the use what you have approach and growing what I have! Sunflowers, arugula, beets, carrot, chard are all on my list! I'm debating whether to try and resurrect my hay bale raised beds from last year or whether to till them all in and do new beds. They have some fab soil in them as I've been dumping all the old bedding from the chicken coop onto them all winter along with food scraps and have been having the chickens "till" the soil for me! So they may be worth resurrecting!
- Cleaning up the greenhouse - mine is very old and nasty but still somewhat serviceable, and although I plan to turn its skeleton into a chicken coop this year, I'll use it for seed starting first!
- Planting garlic! Yes, if you missed planting it in fall, like me, you can still plant it in early spring and get a decent crop come fall!

What will you be doing this february in your garden?

Watering? in December? In Oregon?

2011-12-14T11:01:00.000-08:00

That's right folks! The weather patterns are officially messed up and we are having a winter drought here in Oregon. Standard master gardener advice for December includes the following: “During heavy rains, watch for drainage problems in the yard. Tilling, ditching, and French drains are possible short-term solutions. Consider rain gardens and bioswales as a longer-term solution." [From: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/calendar#december]

but I doubt anyone is having drainage problems this December!

Instead, let's look to advice given for Eastern Oregon, which is what is happening here in Portland and the Willamette Valley: "Central/eastern Oregon: Water your plants every 6 to 8 weeks with a deep soaking to prevent drying out."

Why is watering important? It helps protect plants from winter damage. this is particularly important for new trees and shrubs planted in the fall, which have not had a chance to redevelop their root system and are therefore more likely to suffer from winter damage.

According to OSU: "Winter drought-damaged plants are often so weak they do leaf out, but then may die. Others die from drought stress during the winter months. These plants may appear to have been killed by the cold, but more likely the cause is desiccation." [Snow or lack thereof - effects on landscape plants Accessed at http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/snow-or-lack-thereof-effects-landscape-plants]

The master gardener January calendar states: Central/Eastern Oregon: To prevent winter damage from drying, water plants deeply every 6 to 8 weeks, when the temperatures are above freezing."

So don't bury the hose too deeply in the garage - you may need to get outside and water your plants! But don't leave the hoses out overnight and remember to re-winterize your hose bibs afterwards!

Best wishes
Erika

Also review

"Some plants make natural antifreeze to cope with winter’s wrath" at http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/node/847

How to minimize winter cold damage to lawns at http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/node/1021

http://extension.oregonstate.edu/mg/botany/heat2.html

My apples have bitter pit!

2011-09-20T15:09:00.001-07:00

Ack! I have been so excited about our new apple trees - their second year and quite heavy with fruit - but in the last week or so when I've been harvesting I see they are full of bitter pit.

There is a great image here and info on how to treat it in the Pacific Northwest Disease Handbook from Oregon State University.

Clearly for us the issue has been inconsistent watering and perhaps the early winter freeze that happened in November last year.

I'm considering planting raised beds in my orchard for lettuce and other greens crops who prefer shade in the summer - that way the overhead watering for the trees will also help irrigate the lettuce and other greens.

I am a stingy gardener! Or ... Does Growing Your Own Vegetables Save Money?

2010-02-18T11:19:00.000-08:00

As a Master Gardener, I've been getting asked a lot recently whether it makes economic sense to grow your own vegetables.

There are a couple of things to consider: In 99% of cases, its better for the environment to grow your own. These costs are not always internalized (ie you don't pay for them out of pocket) but they are still important to take into consideration in the greater ecological picture.

But back to the cost that you, as a vegetable gardener incur: There is always a spectrum of expense. If one rushes off to the garden center and buys small bottles of bat guano based fertilizer, $35 tomato cages, and $4 plant starts, the economics can get a little out of whack.

If you make your own compost, start from seed, save your own seeds at the end of the season, and trade with others (particularly in a community garden), you can garden for next to nothing. I am proud to be a particularly stingy gardener and am lucky to have a neighbor who gives me berry starts and other friends to swap and share with. I also organized a seed and plant swap last year at the College I work for. Last year I spent about $20 and am still eating tomatoes from my freezer, green tomato chutney, and frozen berries. I love my pot maker that makes seed pots out of newspaper. (Coming soon to www.apothecary-shoppe.com) I got mine as a free demo but they are only $12 and well worth the investment.

I also am surprised how often people grow things that they don't like to eat. If you don't eat it, its a waste of money/time/effort/space to grow it. I also advocate growing things that are expensive to buy (berries for example), particularly those that are best eaten organic (the so called "dirty dozen"), and that are easy to grow (particularly to start with). I actually think growing potatoes can be a good choice - I like to eat potatoes, I only eat organic potatoes, they can be grown in an upright wire cage so they don't take much space, they are easy to grow, and it is extremely satisfying to unearth them so it keeps my daughter inspired! I also love eating zucchini, so I grow them, even though they are cheap to buy. Plus I like to plant a potager style garden, which allows you to grow things close together is messy harmony, and results in more vegetables and fewer weeds (in my experience).

Here is a great resource that may inspire you to keep accurate records for your garden this year: http://www.modernvictorygarden.com/gardeneconomics.htm

Hope that helps! Have fun!
Best wishes
Erika

Read All About Common Horticultural Myths

2009-12-02T12:25:00.001-08:00

Want accurate info about all those common horticultural myths from Master Gardeners? Click here for a great resource.

Rubber Mulch not recommended by Master Gardeners

2009-12-02T12:22:00.000-08:00

If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!

Here is the latest info on rubber mulch - not environmentally friendly, nor safe, nor long lasting. In fact, it can catch fire, leach toxins into groundwater, and is broken down by various microbes.

Read the full story here

Favorite Beekeeping Resources

2009-11-17T17:07:00.000-08:00

I tend to do a lot of research on my current topics of interest. Here are some useful resources that you may wish to review:

Beekeeping
http://basicbeekeeping.blogspot.com/
http://www.extension.umn.edu/Honeybees/components/pubs.htm
http://honeybhealthy.com/

Essential Oils and Bee Health

Lavender and Thyme essential oil for mite control: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19795133 Access to full text (fee) here http://www.springerlink.com/content/7287n5777t454026/

Hope these are useful!

Winter Blahs

2009-11-13T12:13:00.000-08:00

Oh this season is so hard for gardeners! I hate it when the cold weather hits when there are still green tomatoes on the vine that you were hoping would get a blush of color before you resorted to the brown paper bag method and the last of the dahlia's are water logged and sad. The one saving grace are the holidays and using holly, fir, and boxwood from the garden to decorate the house. Talk about a great way to save money - prune the boxwoods and use the clippings to make holiday wreaths and garlands!

I also like to use aromatherapy to keep my spirits high in this transitional season. It reminds me of those lovely summer days! I of course get my organic therapeutic grade essential oils from the Apothecary Shoppe and here are a couple of my favorite blends:

Energizing Blend
Sweet orange Citrus sinensis oil: 4-drops
Basil Ocimum basilicum oil (Shown in picture): 3-drops

Blend the oils and add 3-drops to a full bath or use a foot or hand bath at least once daily. For those people who shower, adding this formula to liquid soap is an effective alternative.

Uplifting Blend

Clary sage Salvia sclarea oil: 2-drops
Grapefruit Citrus paradisi oil: 2-drops
Sweet orange Citrus sinensis oil: 2-drops
Optional: Gorse flower essence: 3-drops
Optional: Mustard flower essence: 3-drops

Blend all ingredients in a 1-oz bottle. You can add this blend to 1-oz of base oil, such as sweet almond, for a 1% dilution, which is suitable for most users to use in the bath or as a massage oil (check contraindications for preexisting conditions). You can also use this blend to prepare a room spray (see the ACHS YouTube channel for more instructions), add to a candle or use in a diffuser.

Standard precautions: Keep essential oils out of the reach of children. If you are pregnant, nursing, or have a preexisting medical condition, be sure to check for contraindications before using any essential oil. Use common sense and keep essential oils away from eye, nose, and mouth.

Rainwater Collection Presentation and Discussion at St Helens

2009-11-09T11:00:00.001-08:00

Rainwater collection is common where I grew up in New Zealand but is just catching on here in the Pacific North West. Yes, you can drink rain water! Its nature's water purifying system. Ok, except for the whole acid rain thing. But if you live in a reasonably clean environment (gosh is there any such thing anymore) you can drink it. At the very least, your garden can drink it!

If you're interested:

See below about an interesting learning opportunity coming up.

Rain Water Collection & Utilization
Date: 11/18/09
Time 6 - 9 PM
Columbia Learning Center Auditorium
375 South 18th St.
St Helens, OR 97051

The Board Members and Staff of the Columbia Soil & Water Conservation District would like to extend an invitation to a presentation and discussion on Rain Water Collection and Utilization. Featuring Guest Speaker Clair Klock, Senior Resource Conservationist, from Clackamas Soil & Water Conservation District.

If you have any questions please contact:
Malyssa Page
Phone: 503-397-4555 X 100
Malyssa.page@or.nacdnet.net

I LOVE My bees!

2009-11-09T10:23:00.000-08:00

About a month ago, I got two beehives from a beekeeper in Vancouver Washington and brought them home to the farm in Sherwood. It was quite an adventure moving them - the beekeeper had sealed them up early in the morning, and we went midday and loaded them in the car to drive home, along with all of their accouterments - surprisingly bees have nearly as much stuff as babies!

Needless to say a few escaped in the car, which freaked our daughter out no end and we had to put our beekeeping hoods on. Must have been funny for other drivers on I5 who caught a glance!

We got home, moved the beehives to their new location at dusk, and let them out and they seem happy so far. We had some flowers still in bloom including a second flush of Lavandula angustifolia, sunflowers, and borage, which they took advantage of. We have the hives facing east and on warm days the buzzing is phenomenal. We started feeding them with drivert sugar syrup with healthy bee (containing essential oils) mixed in and they are going through a pail a week so far since the rains have hit in earnest.

Our bees seem very happy. So happy in fact that I am no longer using any protective gear when I check the hives! I use a bit of sugar water with some healthy happy bee mixed in (an essential oil blend) and they don't bother me at all. Its very zen - the less stressed you are, the happier and less aggressive the bees will be. We won't be taking any honey off them until next fall so maybe it will be a different story then, but for now, we're peacefully coexisting - we haven't had one sting - even during transporting them!

I had done quite a bit of reading before we got the bees, as I'd been wanting to get some for a while. My mum had bees when we were growing up and I have fond memories of helping her spin out the honey, smoke the bees, and getting stung! Well the memories of getting stung are not that fond, but lets just say that now I don't react much to bee stings!

Mum came to help us get the bees situated and she does have a bee whisperer knack it seems! When a large group of bees rushed out of the hive it gave me a fright, but she soothingly talked to them and calmed us all down (me, my husband and the bees!).

So far, the bees have been very easy to look after - they seem pretty calm - we check them once a week to make sure they have some sugar syrup left and look ok and thats about it. The beekeeper we bought them from had left a full hive of honey for them for the winter so they are in good shape so far. The blocks we set the hives on have settled and the hives are sloping a bit backwards, so one night this week we need to build them up so that they are sloping slightly forward to avoid water getting into the hive and causing mold.

But I am getting anxious the more I read. I also watched "The Last Beekeeper" on the Green Channel last night, and have been watching the show that works with A Year in the Life book. I've been reading Natural Beekeeping, Beekeeping for Dummies and a couple of other books. Its amazing how much there is to learn about these awesome creatures.

The Last Beekeeper was upsetting tho. These poor bees being schlepped across the country to pollinate the Californian almonds - and massive numbers of the hives simply dying from CCD (colony collapse disorder) - which supposedly has no definitive cause.

But let me posit these thoughts:
- Bees in nature travel 2-6 miles to collect nectar. Bees now are being trucked thousands of miles, exposing them to massive doses of pesticides, a variety of insect pests (like mites) and diseases that may or may not be in their home environment
- Bees are being put into monoculture crops that, due to their lack of sustainability, have to be heavily sprayed with insecticides, fungicides, and herbicides. This is making a chemical cocktail in the beehives. Bees, by nature, are monogamous- they pollinate mostly one crop at a time - which makes them ideal for pollination. But in nature, the plants themselves are growing with many other plants. Any time there is a massive industrial monoculture - whether it is corn, soybeans, or almonds , it makes it impossible for a sustainable pattern to exist
- Bees are exposed to many diseases and pests through this practice - its just like people flying a lot for business and getting exposed to a bunch of viruses - only of course we choose to do this - the bees have no choice!
- The travel itself is stressful to bees
- In nature, bees get the winter off. Now they are being forced to work almost year round.

One of the beekeepers in the movie commented "Bees are made to serve". That made my skin crawl. In the words of my daughter, "Dude!"! Bees are not made to serve! They are here fulfilling their own destiny, which coincidentally helps humans, and oh, by the way, the entire ecosystem. Yes, its possible for humans to manage bees in a way that optimizes how much they help us - but by destroying their natural ecosystems and lifecycle patterns, we're putting so much stress on them its almost inevitable that they would start to decline. They cant evolve fast enough to keep up with the toxins and stress! According to this documentary, if bees continue to die at the same rate, they will vanish from the US by the year 2035. This should be headline news!

I am a problem solver. And yes, there is lots of research going on with lots of brilliant people trying to figure out a solution. But, from a complete and utter newbie, here are some ideas:
- Why don't the Californian almond farmers (and other monoculture agricultural systems that rely on bees for pollination) underplant their crops with wildflowers (for longer nectar supply) and get their own beehives. The amount that the farmers pay for pollination services would surely pay for a year round beekeeper to look after their own beehives. No trucking bees around = less stress on the bees + less spread of disease and pests = less bee death?
- Let's leave most of the honey on for the bees to live on in the winter. Its completely unsustainable to take so much honey that the bees are living on sugar water. Sugar water is not nectar. Its like saying humans dont need fruit, just eat candy. Chemically its all broken down to glucose, but the nutrients found in fruit are the most beneficial part of eating fruit for a human. I am sure bees benefit in the same way from nectar and honey.
- Try to duplicate the natural habitat of bees as much as possible. Don't have thousands of hives living in an industrial warehouse eating sugar water. That seems like an ideal way to stress the bees and facilitate the spread of diseases and pests like mites. Spread them out in some local farmland maybe?

Yes, I know, there are lots of issues at stake here. But the bees are dying. In massive numbers. So the status quo is NOT working. So lets change it!

And for the rest of us with small farms, or even urban farms, think about getting a beehive! Happy bees are not aggressive and you'll get enhanced pollination of your own crops and your neighbors. This is particularly synergistic if you follow organic principles - the bees get clean nectar and pollen, and you get a bit of honey and enhanced pollination. I thought my chickens were my favorite farm animals until I got the bees :)

Another person on the documentary summed it up quite nicely: "Let bees be bees". Bees and people can live synergistically but we need to care for the bees. Not exploit them.

My two cents!

What To Do In the Garden in November?

2009-11-05T14:30:00.000-08:00

Winter is nearly upon us in full force but that doesn't mean us gardener's can slack off just yet! Here is the (big!) list of things to do in the PNW in November in your garden! Enjoy!
**************
OSU Extension Service Metro Master Gardener Newsletter November 2009 20
November Garden Hints
Oregon State University Extension Service encourages sustainable gardening practices. Pre-
ventative pest management is emphasized over reactive pest control. Identify and monitor
problems before acting, and opt for the least toxic approach that will remedy the problem.
First consider cultural, and then physical controls. The conservation of biological control
agents (predators, parasitoids) should be favored over the purchase and release of biological
controls. Use chemical controls only when necessary, only after identifying a pest problem,
and only after thoroughly reading the pesticide label. Least-toxic choices include insecticidal
soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides — when used
judiciously.
Recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For
more information, contact your local OSU Extension Service office.
Planning
Force spring bulbs for indoor blooms in December.
Maintenance and Clean Up
Service lawn mower prior to winter.
􏰀 Check potatoes in storage and remove any going bad.
􏰀 Place a portable cold frame over rows of winter vegetables.
􏰀 Place mulch around berries for winter protection.
􏰀 Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and straw.
􏰀 Rake and compost leaves that are free of diseases and insects. Use mulches to prevent ero-
sion and compaction from rain.
􏰀 Protect built-in sprinkler systems: drain the system, insulate the valve mechanisms.
􏰀 Clean and oil lawnmower, other garden equipment and tools before storing for winter. Drain
and store hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing. Renew mulch around perennial flower
beds after removing weeds.
􏰀 Protect tender evergreens from drying wind.
􏰀 Tie limbs of upright evergreens to prevent breakage by snow or ice.
􏰀 Trim chrysanthemums to 4 to 6 inches after they finish blooming.
Leave ornamental grasses up in winter to provide winter texture in the landscape. Cut them
back a few inches above the ground in early spring.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Last chance to plant cover crops for soil building. You can also use a 3- to
4-inch layer of leaves, spread over the garden plot, to eliminate winter weeds, suppress early
spring weeds and prevent soil compaction by rain.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Watch for wet soil and drainage problems in yard during heavy rains. Til-
ing, ditching, and French drains are possible solutions. Consider rain gardens and bioswales as
a long-term solution.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Take cuttings of rhododendrons and camellias for propagation; propagate
begonias from leaf cuttings.
Western Oregon: Prune roses to "knee-high" to prevent winter wind damage.

􏰀 Central/eastern Oregon: Water your newly planted perennials, trees and shrubs every 6 to 8
weeks with a deep soaking to prevent drying out, if there is no snow cover and the ground is warm
enough to accept water.
Central/eastern Oregon: Wrap the trunks of young, thin-barked trees (maples, aspen, ash) with
paper tree wrap late in the month to prevent sunscald. Remove in April. Wrap new trees 2-3
years in a row until the outer bark has thickened.
Planting/Propagation
􏰀 Plant window garden of lettuce, chives, parsley.
􏰀 Good time to plant trees and shrubs. Consider planting shrubs and trees that supply food and
shelter to birds; e.g., sumac, elderberry, flowering currant, and mock orange.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths,
crocuses. Don't delay.
Western Oregon: Good time to plant garlic for harvest next summer, and to transplant land-
scape trees and shrubs.
Pest Monitoring and Management
􏰀 Monitor landscape plants for problems. Don’t treat unless a problem is identified.
􏰀 Rake and destroy leaves from fruit trees that were diseased this year. Remove and discard mum-
mified fruit.
􏰀 Check firewood for insect infestations. Burn affected wood first and don’t store inside.
􏰀 Treat peaches 4 weeks after leaf fall spray for peach leaf curl and shothole diseases.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Moss appearing in lawn may mean too much shade or poor drainage. Correct
site conditions if moss is bothersome.
Western Oregon: Bait garden, flower beds for slugs during rainy periods. Use traps or new
phosphate baits, which are pet-safe.
Houseplants and Indoor Gardening
Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants.

Source: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/mg/metro/newsletter

I'm A Cheapskate: Propagation - Easy Ways to Double Your Plants for Free!

2009-10-30T13:35:00.000-07:00

Fall is the time to take cutting for many shrubs - and its easy to do. You can propagate hydrangeas for example, for free (not patented varieties!) instead of paying $25 for a two year old plant! If you have neighbors with nice gardens, ask if they will share some cuttings with you - gardeners love to share and its a great way to start a conversation with your neighbors. Much of my plants have come from divisions and cuttings from my wonderful neighbors and from fellow Master Gardeners.

Nov 7 Master Gardener recert class has a session on propagation as its a question we are getting more and more as money continues to be tight for most of us... but you can get a jump start with the info below!

*********

Prior Planning Yields Results- Growing Shrubs from Cuttings
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator

You like your new home, but the landscaping is a little sparse. So is your landscaping budget. But a friend has offered you starts of several shrubs. This is great, but you have a few questions, which boil down to what, when and how do you start new shrubs from cuttings?

The first step is to select healthy, vigorously growing plants as the sources of your cuttings. Then, in the fall, after the leaves drop, select one-year-old stems, which are usually lighter colored and smaller in diameter than older stems.

Use a sharp knife to cut stems 1 to 2 feet long. Cut the stems into sections 6 to 8 inches long, discarding the top couple of inches. Make sure each section has several leaf buds, or nodes, and make cuts 2 inch above or below a node.

Stems have a definite up and down orientation and they won’t root and grow if you plant them upside-down. So establish some sort of system for keeping them sorted out -- cut the bottom of each piece straight across and the top at a slant, or place them upright in a tin can or figure out some other way to make it easy to tell which end should be up.

Dipping the bottom end of each cutting in rooting hormone will increase the chances of success.

Store the dormant cuttings over the winter in bundles bound with rubber bands or string in a box filled with slightly moist sand, sawdust or vermiculite. If you took cuttings from several kinds of shrubs, label each bundle. Store the box in a cold but not freezing area, such as a garage, unheated attic or root cellar. An alternative is to store them in plastic bags with the sand, sawdust or vermiculite mix and place them in a refrigerator.

In the spring, retrieve the cuttings before the leaves on growing shrubs begin to open, dip the bottom end of each cutting in rooting hormone and plant them in a protected area of the garden. Dig a trench about as deep as the cuttings are long, place a couple of inches of coarse sand in the bottom, and stand the cuttings up in the sand about 6 inches apart. Fill in the trench with a mixture of soil and compost, sand or perlite so that only the top bud of each cutting is visible. Firm the mixture around the cuttings and water well.

Water as needed to keep this nursery area moist but not soggy, and shade cuttings with cloth or a piece of lattice supported by stakes until they are growing well. When plants develop leaves and start to grow larger, begin feeding them monthly during the growing season with a complete soluble fertilizer.

By the next spring, they should be ready to be moved to their permanent spots in the landscape.

Source: November 2009 Edition of the Acreage & Small Farm Insights Newsletter from the University of Nebraska- Lincoln (UNL) Extension Acreage team, a monthly electronic newsletter providing new and established acreage owners with timely information. Visit the Acreage & Small Farm web site at http://acreage.unl.edu

How to Plant Trees Correctly - Simple Tips for Success

2009-10-30T13:31:00.000-07:00

Fall is an excellent time to plant trees, but don't throw away your investment by failing to plant it correctly. Follow these simple tips for the highest chances of success. Be sure to watch landscaping contractors too - I've had landscapers plant large trees with the root ball still burlapped - at the time I didnt know any better and they told me it would biodegrade - but the tree roots grow around inside the ball in the meantime and ended up strangling itself - I just had to pull up an entire hedge of bay laurels that had been planted this way and were dying. What a waste!

********
8. Techniques for Successful Tree Planting
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator

Healthy trees contribute to the beauty and the value of your home landscape. Select and maintain trees with these tips.

Select hardy species with typically few problems with insects or diseases, and plant them in a site that meets their requirements for drainage, soil pH, sunlight, moisture, etc. Avoid problem-prone trees -- those with serious insect and disease problems and weak wood or branching patterns that make them susceptible to storm damage. Hardiness refers to a tree’s ability to survive a normal winter in your area. Marginally hardy plants might live through a series of mild winters or survive in a sheltered area, but they are unlikely to perform as well as plants native to our region. Make sure the planting site gives the tree room to reach its mature size.

Plant properly. Dig a large planting hole and place the tree at the same level it was growing at in the nursery. Be sure to remove all non-biodegradable materials from the trunk or root ball before planting, and redirect or remove any roots growing around the root ball -- they may eventually girdle and kill the plant. Water to settle soil around the roots -- hard tamping can compact the soil and damage the roots.

Water newly planted trees during dry weather for the first growing season or two after planting. Limited root systems make them more vulnerable to drought, and drought stress can, in turn, make them more susceptible to insect attack and other problems.

Stake and guy wire newly planted trees as needed to prevent wind damage and promote quick establishment of a sturdy, supportive root system.

Protect landscape plants from damage by lawn mowers, string trimmers and other landscape equipment, as well as herbicides and other lawn and garden chemicals. Mulching around landscape ornamentals keeps the lawnmower at a safe distance. It also helps conserve soil moisture and reduce the frequency of watering during dry weather. Keep herbicides out of the root zone of landscape trees as much as possible. If you must use them, apply them in the fall when woody plants are growing less vigorously and so are less likely to take up and suffer damage from such chemicals.

Avoid using deicing salt around landscape plants. Place sensitive plants away from roadways where airborne salt spray or salt in the root zone can injure them, and avoid piling salt-laden snow or ice near plants.

Remove broken, dead or diseased branches promptly and properly. Leave no stubs or ragged bark that could give insects or diseases a place to get established.

Fertilize established plants every year to keep them growing vigorously, and water even long-established trees in extended dry periods.

Avoid changes in the growing site that may damage roots or alter drainage. Protect trees from injury to bark or roots during construction.
_________________________________________________________

Source: November 2009 Edition of the Acreage & Small Farm Insights Newsletter from the University of Nebraska- Lincoln (UNL) Extension Acreage team, a monthly electronic newsletter providing new and established acreage owners with timely information. Visit the Acreage & Small Farm web site at http://acreage.unl.edu

How To Keep Your Chickens Laying Over Winter

2009-10-30T13:25:00.001-07:00

This info was invaluable to me when my chickens stopped laying last fall and I couldnt figure out why. As soon as I got a light into their coop, eggs, reappeared within a week! This year I moved to a bigger coop - part of a 30x20 barn and have not got electricity installed yet so sure enough the eggs have stopped again! I have been looking for a solar panel powered light but have not been able to find one - any ideas?

********
6. How to Keep Your Hens Laying Through the Winter
By Sheila Scheideler, UNL Extension Poultry Specialist

Do you want to keep your hens in egg production through the winter months?? Then you have to trick them into thinking they still have long days and short nights rather than the reverse.

The laying hen's reproductive tract works off something we call a “photoperiod” or more simply said the ability of the hen to react to a light stimulation. That is why wild birds nest and lay eggs in the spring during increasing daylight. In order for a hen that is already laying eggs to keep laying eggs during a naturally decreasing day length, we must provide an artificial stimulation of increased day length to trick her into thinking it is still summer and spring.

Poultry need a minimum day length of 14 hours light in order to continue regular ovulation and egg production activity. Our day lengths in Nebraska typically become less than 14 hours by mid-September. So often we see our laying hens backing off their rate of egg production as we go through the fall months and approach winter.

The simple solution to this problem is to contain your hens in a coop after dusk and offer artificial lighting up to approximately 10:00 pm each evening. The artificial light provided does not have to be intense, a small wattage lamp should be adequate if you can see well enough to do chores.

The light needs to come on at dusk. If the hens are exposed to more than one hour of dark, they think it is really night-time and will not think they need to produce an egg for the next day. So through most of the fall and winter, if the sun is up by 8:00 AM and your birds are exposed to adequate natural day length, adding artificial light to 10:00 pm each day will give your hens a 14 hour photoperiod. That should be enough light stimulation to keep their reproductive activities going.

The hens are also going to need some protection from the cold and adequate food intake to keep laying eggs through the winter months. If the hen has to use all of her food sources to keep warm, she’ll not be inclined to spend valuable calories on egg production. So if your hens are free range and out in the cold, be sure to increase their feeding rate to provide energy for both body heat production and egg production.

Source: November 2009 Edition of the Acreage & Small Farm Insights Newsletter from the University of Nebraska- Lincoln (UNL) Extension Acreage team, a monthly electronic newsletter providing new and established acreage owners with timely information. Visit the Acreage & Small Farm web site at http://acreage.unl.edu

We hatessssss moles, and gophers, and voles

2009-07-22T15:24:00.001-07:00

As a Master Gardener through Oregon State University, we get a lot of questions about vertebrate pests. Sadly I too have problems with gophers, moles, and voles. We were at our wits end trying the various devices but during my Master Gardener training, I learned that traps and poison are the most effective methods for minimizing damage to your crops and property. Sometimes the effective poisons are limited to licensed operators. You can check with your local extension office for their advice on what works in your area.

There has been a lot of research done through the various extension services and the ultrasonic or other vibration devices don't seem to work. Gas bombs only work if the soil is heavy enough, and the burrows not large enough to dilute the smoke (so it doesnt get to high enough levels to kill them).

Before I did the Master Gardener program, we had tried various baits, bombs, vibration devices, setting sulfur on fire, and flooding. Now my husband traps them, with reasonable success as long as he does it all the time. Thats the problem for us as he already has a full time job! It does seem to keep them more under control, but its an uphill battle.

Here is some info from Oregon that you may find helpful:
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/html/ec/ec1117/
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/html/ec/ec987/

Question: Can I make a tea from my Lavandula stoechas?

2009-07-20T15:07:00.000-07:00

This pic is of Lavandula stoechas in the ACHS Herb Garden.

I've had several variations of this question in the past week, so thought it worth a blog post!

First, it is wonderful to experiment with teas straight from the garden - it doesn't get any fresher or more local than that! But always be concerned about the safety and look up any herb that you're not 100% familiar with. Be wary of the different varieties, as many things with the same common name or even similar Latin binomial names can be completely different plants with drastically different active constituents and safety profiles.

The lavenders are a great example, as their constituent profiles are dramatically varying.

I would definitely recommend using Lavandula angustifolia, even over L. intermedia, for tea and cooking. L. stoechas is fairly universally used as an ornamental lavender only.

Guenther Vol III (The Essential Oils, 1974 reprint, Krieger Publishing) states the following for Stoechas:

"The oils should contain about 80 per cent of ketones (d-camphor and d-fenchone). Oils also contains fenchyl alcohol, probably terpineol, and a phenolic compound of unknown origin...."

Tisserand and Balacs, Essential Oil Safety, Churchill Livingstone 1995, has a profile on page 145, which states:

"Camphor 15-30%
Fenchone 45-50%

Hazards: Neurotoxic - assumed from camphor content (mild)
Contraindication (oral): Epilepsy, fever, pregnancy
Toxicity Data and Recommendations: Camphor readily causes epileptiform convulsions if taken in sufficient quantity. L. Stoechas oil should therefore be used with cautions, especially in oral doses.

Comments: Camphor content is significantly higher than that of true lavender oil (<1%)"

So, the upshot is that regular use is probably not a good idea. A tea does extract some of the constituents that are in the oil, although in lower concentrations. Obviously the regularity of use will also be a factor. One cup of tea once or twice a year is less likely to cause problems than three cups a day. But why risk any issues? Instead, why not switch to L. angustifolia, which tastes better to most people and avoids these concerns. Some sources say L. intermedia use is fine, but L. intermedia is also high in camphor and this constituent has quite a few contraindications.

Keep in mind also that camphor is a stimulant, so any Lavandula that is high in camphor is a stimulant, not a relaxing herb. So if you're looking for a relaxing cup of tea how about chamomile and L. angustifolia? If you are looking for a stimulating tea, why not try a blend based on peppermint?

Hope that helps and have fun with your garden!

Yum! I LOVE strawberries and use them as groundcover!

2009-06-02T21:41:00.000-07:00

I LOVE strawberries and there is nothing like a strawberry fresh from the garden - I picked my first bowl of strawberries today - a variety called Hood that is just delicious. I have cut off the runners from my main bed and transplanted them around the rest of the garden as ground cover and they are all producing like crazy!

I have found the following tips helpful:
- New plants bear the most and biggest fruit -
- Keep your beds well watered and weeded after fruiting for good fruiting next year
- Apply 1-2 inches of compost or fine garden mulch that contains compost after fruiting to encourage growth for next year
- Cut off the runners and move them to other parts of your garden or give them away to friends and family
- Keep them picked when they ripen to keep production going
- Wash them right before you eat them and...

Enjoy! Berries of all kinds are high in antioxidants and very low in calories, and usually expensive in the stores, so they are a great choice to grow in even a small garden!

I LOVE planting trees!

2009-06-02T21:28:00.000-07:00

Trees are a wonderful asset to any landscape, and did you know that one tree can provide enough oxygen for a family of four once its grown? Talk about green!

This year we planted 51 trees, a mixture of flowering cherry trees, golden chain trees, and maples. My tips for tree happiness are regular watering while they get established and then during drought, and mulching. Since becoming a Master Gardener, I have made a real effort to weed and mulch around the base of my trees and keep them watered regularly and have been rewarded with much healthier and faster growing trees.

I found these tips, from the Acreage & Small Farm Insights Newsletter from the University of Nebraska- Lincoln (UNL) Extension Acreage team very helpful:

Summer Mulch for Trees
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator

Nebraskans know that trees are valuable assets. In fact, if your home is surrounded by cornfields, the comfort trees provide on hot summer days is absolutely priceless. That's why it's worth a little extra time and effort to mulch the trees you care about. The benefits are many. During hot weather, a layer of organic mulch around a tree conserves moisture and significantly lowers soil temperature, both essential factors for good root growth. As organic mulches go through the natural process of breaking down, they add slow-release nutrients to the soil, as well as soil microbes, which are the sustaining food sources for any plant.

Mulches are just as important for what they take away from underneath a tree. Turfgrass and weeds with their dense root systems rob trees of soil moisture, especially during dry periods. By removing turfgrass, you eliminate a tough competitor. Also, a mulched zone around a tree protects it against injury too often caused by lawn mowers.

One common misconception about trees is that their roots are deep. Actually, feeder roots exist within 12-18 inches of the soil surface where they absorb both air and water. For this reason, grass clippings are not a good choice for mulching because they may mat and smother tree roots. A 3-4 inch layer of coarsely chipped tree branches and leaves is always best.

And remember- apply mulch close but never directly against the trunk of your tree.

The following info is written for Nebraska, but is equally true in other States:
Ensure Good Survival in New Conservation Tree Plantings
By Dennis Adams, Nebraska Forest Service

Early explorers described Nebraska as "the great American desert" with not a tree to be seen in a day's travel. The first settlers realized the value of trees for protection, lumber, fuel and food. Planting trees quickly became a Nebraska tradition and Nebraska has long been known as the "tree planter's state." In keeping with this proud tradition, each spring over 1 million tree and shrub seedlings are planted in Nebraska for protection, beauty, and wildlife habitat, lumber, watershed protection and other conservation purposes.

All conservation plantings require considerable care to ensure good growth and survival. Taking care of your trees should begin early -- when you receive the seedlings.

Pre-planting Care
Immediately check the roots for moisture. If the roots appear dry, wet them down and keep moist until planted. It is best to plant the seedlings the same day they are received. But if it becomes necessary to hold seedlings for several days, they should be placed in the coolest place available, out of the sun, and kept moist. Never allow the roots to become dry or hot, as this will greatly reduce the chances for survival.

Planting
During the planting operation the roots must be kept moist at all times. Carry the seedlings in containers partly filled with water and covered with moist burlap. Plant the seedlings the same depth they grew in the nursery. Planting too shallow or too deep may result in poor survival. Make sure the seedlings are planted firm and straight (without doubling the roots) and the soil is well packed.

Many tree planters are very enthusiastic about getting their trees planted in the spring. They do a good job of everything up through planting the trees and then seem to forget them. These same people wouldn't think of planting their cornfields or gardens and then forget them. They become frantic if weeds or grass start to grow in their cornfields. They certainly wouldn't allow livestock to trample and eat their corn. Oddly enough, these same people often give little thought to the effect of poor care and lack of protection on their trees.

Enhance New Tree Survival and Growth
After planting, treat trees as you would any other crop. Help them in their fight for survival against drought, weeds, disease and pests by giving them the best care and protection. Visit your tree planting often the year round, to determine any attention it may need.

Protect your tree planting from animals, insects and disease. Animals may cause severe injury to trees. Soil compaction around roots, browsing, debarking and trampling by large animals is some of the damages from which your trees will need protection. The only remedy for this kind of damage is to build and maintain a fence to keep all large animals out of the planting.

Rabbits, mice and other rodents may cause severe damage to young trees, usually during the fall and winter months when other food sources are scarce. Debarking, girdling and even chewing-off the tops of some seedlings by rabbits is possible.

Trees can be protected by a guard made from hardware cloth encircling the stem and extending 12 inches above the highest snowfall. Homemade or commercial repellants and poisons are available. Mice will usually cause little damage if trash and debris is removed from the base of the tree, where they congregate and breed. If insect or disease problems are suspected or if your trees lack vigor and color, contact an extension specialist to diagnose and recommend treatment.

Weed Control
An important consideration in establishing seedling trees and shrubs is removal of weed competition. The first year is extremely critical; young trees depend on surface moisture to survive. Competition for moisture, light and nutrients by aggressive weeds and grasses may severely stunt or kill newly planted trees and shrubs.

Methods of controlling weed competition include cultivation, mowing, herbicides, and mulching. Removal of competing vegetation about two feet on each side of the tree row is most critical. The best and easiest time to control weeds and grasses is before or during their seedling stage. Established weeds and grasses can hide small tree/shrub seedlings and much more difficult to control.

In parts of the state where moisture is limited or erosion is not a problem, it may be best to cultivate between tree rows to remove all weeds and grass. Cultivation is the surest method to control weeds and retain moisture for the seedlings. Cultivation should not be too deep and should never ridge soil against the trees. Mowing vegetation between rows may be a better method of weed control where moisture is sufficient and a cover between rows is desirable to prevent soil erosion.

Some attempts have been made to plant brome grass, tall fescue, or other aggressive grasses to control weeds between rows of trees after the first year of cultivation. This is not recommended. Aggressive grasses can smother out weeds, but give young trees and shrubs the worst kind of competition for moisture and nutrients. When planting between tree rows is necessary, a short warm season grass or grass that goes dormant during drought conditions may be the best alternative.

Young trees and shrubs should be relatively free from weed competition for several years until they have reach a growth that will partially shade out grass and weed growth. By this time the tree root system will be established and developed to a degree that competition from weeds will be less of a problem.

Remember, the time spent protecting and maintaining your planting will pay substantial returns in comfort, protection and beauty.

Badge Test

2009-05-12T13:39:00.000-07:00

Eco-Friendly Lawn Care Tips

2009-05-11T13:47:00.000-07:00

What works for your lawns depends on your area, soil, and type of grass, so there are specific tips - I would recommend calling your Master Gardener hotline in your county (you can get numbers from google - Oregon numbers are here) and asking them for a natural lawn care regime.

In general, its sound advice anywhere to:

- leave clippings on the lawn

- add 1 inch of compost (fine is needed) over dethatched lawn (if dethatching is needed) in the Spring and the Fall. I use a product called Garden Mulch that is a very fine blend of half compost with other amendments and rake it thickly over my lawn. This provides nitrogen over time, so you may need to continue with a more immediate release organic fertilizer to start with.

- use corn gluten meal to prevent approx 2/3 of weed seed germination - this also provides nitrogen (slow-release) fertilizer so is an added bonus.

- try an eco-friendly lawn mix: Many eco friendly lawn mixes are now available that include clover (which fixes nitrogen in the soil and can provide up to 50% of your lawn's nitrogen needs!) along with other perennials even herbs such as chamomile.

- dig any perennial weeds (make dandelion coffee with the roots as long as you havent sprayed!)

- water deeply once a week when rainfall is insufficient (one inch of water per week is all that most lawns need so set out a tuna can somewhere and only water once a week if its empty). The good think about having clover in your lawn mix is that it stays green even with little water!

Hope that helps!

New Extension Service Gardening Encyclopedia

2009-04-21T13:25:00.000-07:00

Don't miss this wealth of information, all evidence based and specific to the PNW!

http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/

What to do in the Garden in April

2009-04-13T19:13:00.000-07:00

Look after your lawn!
Fertilize it - follow the package instructions. Or spread 1-2 inches of fine compost or mulch over the grass after aerating if needed. The compost will quickly break down into the soil, providing a long lasting nitrogen source. Note that you may need to fertilize as well the first time you do this, as the nitrogen in the compost must be broken down by microbes in the soil to become available to the grass. Dig any perennial weeds before they set seed. If you have any muddy areas from walking on it in the winter, consider putting in a path or patio. Alternative, rake the area, add some compost, and spread grass seed thickly to cover bare patches. Water daily if it doesnt rain until established.

Prune Spring Flowering Shrubs
As soon as they have finished flowering, prune your spring blooming shrubs, like lilacs, magnolia, azaleas, etc. They set flowers on the new growth so if you wait till fall or winter, you'll be chopping off next Springs flowers!

Fertilize
Use a slow release fertilizer for trees and shrubs. You can also mulch with compost.

Prepare
Prep vegetable beds by adding compost, manure, and other soil amendments. If you have raised beds you can get started earlier. Don't work your soil if you can squeeze water out of a handful of it. If it holds together loosely, you are ok to work it. Once beds are ready, plant brocolli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, chives, leeks, peas, radishes, rhubarb, spinach and turnips.

Master Gardener Hotline Info for Oregon

2009-03-31T20:51:00.000-07:00

Did you know that you can ask questions of Master Gardeners by phone and email? Its free and we're there to help! For contact info, visit here.

Don't Forget the Better Living Show this Weekend

2009-03-27T14:27:00.001-07:00

This show is wonderful - I loved it last year! This year offers even more presentations and entrance is free! Its a great opportunity to meet new people interested in green and sustainable practices and learn at the Seminars.

Australasian College of Health Sciences will be at Booth 1006 and I will be at the Booth Sunday and on and off all weekend.

For a schedule see www.betterlivingshow.org/

Hope to see you there!