Matt Dunne Wine Reviews

Toothfish & Burgundy - Two Ways

2014-06-11T18:35:00.000-07:00

ARIA Sydney’s roasted Toothfish with octopus, grilled leeks & tomato butter sauce. With 2012 Macon-Fuissé ‘Le Haut Fuissé’ Domaine Vessigaud, Burgundy France (Chardonnay)

ARIA Sydney Toothfish Main Course

Ben Turner’s latest Toothfish main dish at ARIA Sydney requires a complex wine that has fresh acidity. So we have decided to serve the same wine 2 ways for this dish – one bottle being 3-4 degrees (very chilled) served in a riesling glass, the other bottle served at cellar temperature (16 degrees) in a larger burgundy glass. For me the bigger burgundy glass sings the louder tune, with firmer flavours and textures so is more suited to the mouthfeel of the Toothfish whilst in the crisper format the more chilled Macon has fresher citrus notes and high-toned acidity, making it more suitable with the accompanying flavours of smoked eggplant, octopus, leek and tomato.

Background on the ARIA Sydney dish:

Toothfish is a deep water fish which is harvested from Antarctica. It is caught in the sub-atlantic waters between Western Australia and Argentina. It is rich and buttery with a large flake and in this case it is roasted with the skin off. The fish lies on a spoon of smoked eggplant caviar, green shallots are lightly char-grilled. The octopus is sourced from Fremantle in Western Australia and is cooked in a water bath at 85 degrees celsius for 3 hours. The octopus is then warmed in a pickling liquid. The dish is garnished with ice plant, a tomato and octopus ink sauce – a sauce blended with fresh cherry tomato, tomato paste, sherry vinegar, butter and then finished with the ink.

Tell your friends:

Toothfish flesh is high in oil due to cold waters and a rich diet of squid, crustaceans and fish.
Macon-Fuissé wines are produced under the Macon appellation within the commune of Fuissé in Southern Burgundy. This title covers white wine produced exclusively from Chardonnay grapes.

Background on the wine:

Nestled between the communes of Pouilly and Fuissé, the Vessigaud estate has been producing wines since the mid 19th century. Pierre Vessigaud took over the eleven hectare domaine from his father in 1998. Mostly planted over clay-limestone soils on mid-slopes, and with general south-easterly exposure, the vines of Domaine Vessigaud benefit perfectly from the natural conditions found in this corner of southern Burgundy. The vineyards are laboured manually, with no use of chemical

herbicides or pesticides. Domaine Vessigaud achieved certified Organic status in 2013. This wine is from single vineyard called 'Le Haut de Fuissé' which is a 2 hectare, south-west facing site close to the boundary with Pouilly-Fuissé. In my opinion wines from here offer great value in contrast to their more famous Burgundian counterparts.

Tasting notes:
Pale yellow in the glass, bright aromatics (orange blossom, peach and gingerbread) with struck match and flint. Good structure on the palate - beautiful lemony character, exotic stone fruit, saline freshness and impressive complexity. Dry, long and intense finish.

Chardonnay chilled at 4 degrees (right) versus cellar temperature (left) at 16 degrees

The glassware:
For classy glasses that look great, feel great and heighten the experience of drinking I'd recommend the brand Zalto from Austria (pictured above). They are mouth-blown (see picture below) plus they are lead oxide free which results in a lighter, more flexible glass. Zalto's aim is for the wine to reach its utmost potential in the glass... and they do! Click here to purchase some.

The work of a highly skilled glass blower

Would also go well with:
Ok, so maybe you are not the biggest fan of fish or seafood? So another great match with this style of wine is whole roast chicken stuffed with lemon and herbs, with coriander pesto and a potato salad.

To finish:

Make up your own mind about which style of Chardonnay you prefer (ie chilled or cellar temperature) but our idea would be to try the dish and wine in the following format:
1. take a sip out of the chilled glass, then try the Toothfish.
2. take a sip out of the burgundy glass, then try the accompaniments.
3. take a sip out of chilled glass, then try the dish together (ie fish and other ingredients combined)

It is interesting to see how the wine shows up differently in alternate glassware and how temperature makes a massive difference when looking at food and wine combinations.

To buy:

The 2012 Macon-Fuissé ‘Le Haut Fuissé’ Domaine Vessigaud is imported by MorSul Wine Imports exclusively in Australia and can be tried at one of our venues. Click here to browse at our MorSul venues.

Second vintage of my wine, Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir - 2012

2013-07-29T10:01:00.000-07:00

Have you tried many 2012 releases from Victoria? The hype about this vintage is high and in 2012 we continued the collaboration between myself, the Yarra Valley's Mac Forbes and Nicholas Crampton, to produce our next vintage of Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir. Hats off to Mac Forbes, who's knowledge of the Yarra and his ability to extract and showcase the best qualities from each vineyard is an amazing talent.

After the challenging 2011 vintage, the 2012 vintage started with early worrying signs but blossomed into a classic vintage with conditions ideal and fruit all in balance. Again we decided to blend a wine from a couple of single vineyards, this time from two complimentary sites (50% each) of unique character. The Coldstream site has soil with a thin layer of grey loam over clay and 14 year old MV6 clone material whilst Seville has lean, grey clay and mudstone from MV6 vines planted in 1982. The MV6 clone generally produces small berries with thick skins which gives solid structure to the wine. The fruit from Seville brings freshness, acidity and purity of delicate red fruit characters whilst the warmer Coldstream site offers more structure and opulence to the blend for 2012.

Vintage 2012 - Mac Forbes Winery

All the good (and fun!) bits were included in the wine-making process... foot stomping, about 10% whole cluster and one quarter new oak in the mix. The result is a pinot of elegance and poise, but with a bit of extra depth and intensity compared to the 2011. Most importantly it has an approachability which draws you in and its versatility with food again matches last vintage.

I think it's important to leave the tasting notes up to you… but for me the palate displays the classic Mac Forbes interplay between fruit and bright, crunchy acidity. Light bodied but full flavoured with cranberry and red currant characters. Yes, it will develop even better in the bottle in a few months’ time, but we have decided to let it loose.

Tell your friends: Drake is all about creating a wine that is perfect anytime and versatile with food (lots of duck!) in any environment. It turns Mac’s single vineyard philosophy on its head and it is our goal to select the best fruit possible for our blend.

Recommended food matches: Thai green curry, duck pancakes, chicken satay, quail with beetroot & fig salad. If you are into cheese then the acidity and freshness matches strong washed rind brilliantly.

To order: (RRP is $35) Click here to purchase a bottle! Alternatively, I can send you an order form via email: matthew.dunne@viscosity.net.au

Killara Vineyard

Little Rhône Wonder

2013-06-06T18:25:00.000-07:00

The Rhône Range

From Champagne we trained it south to Avignon… for a speed tour of Southern Rhône (1 day). Best find was an up-and-coming producer based in the village of Cairanne, which will reach ‘growth’ status in 2014. The village of Cairanne is on the southern Côtes du Rhône wine route and its quality wines are designated Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC. Wines from here possess good natural tannin. I was impressed by their immediate approachability (good for a 'wine by the glass' pour!).

Pascal Franczak is only on his third vintage at ‘Château de Plaisir’, but he has hit the scene with great enthusiasm and willingness to do what it takes to reach high quality, well-priced wines that speak of where they are from. The vineyard is being managed organically and although not certified yet, it is not far away. All the wines are de-stemmed and produced in a pretty tiny domain that was built in the 1920s. Pascal also has the project of transforming the vacant ‘Château’ on the property (next to winery) into an 8 bedroom mini hotel with an eatery and swimming pool. After seeing the space it makes absolute sense as it has a unique charm that would make it something special in the region. Pascal has given himself two years to get it done!

Watch this space - Mini Hotel with a difference

2012 Château de Plaisir Côtes du Rhône Blanc (60% Clairette, 30%Viognier, 10% Bourboulenc)

This was a tank sample. Incredible perfume of white florals with tangerine and orange blossom. Palate medium bodied with juicy acidity and decent length, following through well. Clairette variety is known for giving freshness and elegance to the blend. Will these wines ever be popular in the Australian market though?

2011 Château de Plaisir Côtes du Rhône Rosé (100% carignan)

Light cherry colour. Great acidity, medium bodied with red currants (strawberry & red cherry). Good natural acidity in this wine with dry, persistent finish. Would be a hit for Rosé tragics who like a dry style with a bit more body.

2011 Château de Plaisir Côtes du Rhône Rouge (70% Grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault)

From 20-50 year old vines… dark red hue with hint of purple… a nose rich in both red and black fruits (dark cherry and sweet plum) with cinnamon, clove and liquorice. Medium bodied palate, juicy with good length. Wouldn’t require food to enjoy a glass or two of this!

2011 Château de Plaisir Cairanne Rouge (60% Grenache, 30% syrah, 10% carignan)

From 50-60 year old vines… slightly more plush and palate filling than the CDR and with a fraction more structure (from Syrah). Leaning more to dark fruits, with red plum and blackberries and white pepper spice. I see them ageing well for the medium term.

IN A NUTSHELL:

‘Best meal’ for our cameo trip in Rhône: 'Le Tourne au Verre' (restaurant/wine bar) in Cairanne.

Apart from good food there was an excellent vibe and plenty of local winemakers who all seemed to mingle and get on like a house on fire! Some cool stuff by the glass also..

That's what I call smart pricing!

‘Best bottle shop’ experience in Rhône: ‘le vin devant soi’ in Avignon.

(use enomatic system so could try loads of great stuff to check out)

TELL YOUR FRIENDS:

You will find tonnes of great value wines from the Southern Rhône.. typically they produce medium bodied Grenache dominant reds that have a real energy, personality and elegance. Consistency can be up and down, but most importantly they are adaptable, food friendly styles that are perfect as the cooler months set in. My pick for food matching is lamb roast with loads of garlic, rosemary and sweet potato.

Tour de Champagne - April 2013

2013-04-07T23:08:00.000-07:00

Champagne - does any other beverage evoke a moment in time, a feeling, or that special place? I think not. Here is a little insight into some gems for our two day tour of the champagne region. There are 319 villages in Champagne with 17 Grand Cru and 41 Premier Cru sites, so this is really only a small glimpse… but here are some little beauties worth noting!

BRUNO PAILLARD - Montagne De Reims

Amazing to meet Alice Pallaird, daughter of Bruno and part of the 32 staff who work for her father. This is considered a smallish and relatively young ‘house’, making between 400,000 and 500,000 bottles a year. Their largest export markets are Japan and Great Britain. Known for their ‘mult-vintage’ wines and for using different artists to complement their vintage range labels. Bruno wanted to add personality to the vintages but express their nature on the bottle labels. Basically artists are given two words that relate to the vintage (ie ‘structure’ and ‘velvet’ in 1996) and they are asked to submit works based on this.

The multi-vintage selection from Bruno Paillard

MV Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Brut
Made from the traditional varieties, with Pinot Noir winning the race out of the three with a 45% make up of the blend.. a wine that teases the palate with excellent balance and power – hints of toastiness, honeysuckle, and citrus (lime) with dry but textured finish. Spends 3 years on lees with 6 g/l dosage.

MV Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Rosé
Has always been a crowd charmer at ARIA Sydney. Mostly made up of pinot noir (percentage undisclosed) and from 12 vineyards. Dosage also 6 g/l with high toned acidity and red currants being the flavour of the day.

MV Bruno Paillard ‘Reserve Primee’ Blanc de Blancs
From three terroirs, spends 4 years on lees with aromas of white flowers, fresh almond and tangerine. Tightly built and fine bubbles. For me, the complete aperitif. Gets you salivating!

JEAN LALLEMENT – Verzenay in Montagne de Reims

The selection from Lallement

We were treated to some excellent hospitality by Alexandra Lallement and it was an honour to try their range of wines. The production is tiny with about 25,000 bottles per year made, 80% of which is exported. The ‘grand cru’ village of Verzenay produces pinot noir with incredible perfume but has more elegant result on the palate when compared to the wines from Ambonnay. Alexandra’s husband, Jean-Luc is at the helm and all the base wines undergo malolactic fermentation. These were wines with great personality and which scream of their origin.

NV Jean Lallement Brut Tradition (80% Pinot Noir & 20% Chardonnay)
Rich and toasty with brioche and baked pastry notes upfront. Then later comes the liquorice and fennel seed hit with fresh almonds and hints of nougat. 6 g/l of dosage so pretty dry but delectable and artisian.

NV Jean Lallement Brut Reserve (80% Pinot Noir & 20% Chardonnay)

From vieilles vignes (old vines between age of 35 and 45 years). Drier than the Brut Tradition with 4 g/l of dosage, some more savoury notes with pine needles, citrus and bracing mineral notes.

NV Jean Lallement Rosè (100% Pinot Noir from 2009 Harvest)

100% pinot noir assemblage – all from Grand Cru sites. A much more serious style that would hold up well into main course territory for food and wine matches - riper red currants and cherry notes. Dosage of 4 g/l keeps it nice and tense.

MICHEL ARNOULD - Verzenay in Montagne de Reims

Up the hill we went (5 minutes) to visit Patrick Arnould, a humble man with an incredible passion to produce wines of personality and quality. He makes about 100,000 bottles a year and owns 12 hectares, 95% of which are also in Verzenay. His pinot noir from the village has a northern exposure thus giving it a certain ‘lightness’ in the mouth. There is consistency throughout the whole range with a super fine bead and elegance. Solid stuff!

NV Michel Arnould Brut Reserve

NV Michel Arnould Brut Reserve (70% Pinot Noir & 30% Chardonnay)

Clean, fresh, immediately appealing with 10 g/l dosage and aged for 2-3 years before disgorging. Crisp minerality so defined with citrus and hint of nectarines.

NV Michel Arnould Grande Cuvée (70% Pinot Noir & 30% Chardonnay)

Some more exotic notes with lovely crisp minerality and drive. Slightly deeper than the Brut Reserve but the acidity keeps everything in harmony (9 g/l dosage).

2007 Michel Arnould ‘B-50’ (50% pinot & 50% chardonnay)

This wine has not been released yet so was a real privilege to so how it is embracing its journey in the bottle. It is fermented in 2-3 year old burgundy oak and does not go through any malolactic fermentation. Loved the ‘vinous’ appeal this wine had and Patrick has had a mixed response to it so far. Thumbs up from us… definitely a main course wine and not for the faint hearted.

NV Michel Arnould Brut Rosé (100% pinot noir from Grand Cru vineyards)

Ripe raspberry fruits with sour cherry, sweet candy cane and sherbet.. quite a powerful entry but streamlined enough for dry finish. 9 g/l dosage

R & L LEGRAS – Chouilly in the Côtes des Blancs

2004 R & L Legras‘Presidence’ Vieilles Vignes’

Chef de cave Julien Barbier is going to be a superstar. From the winery, to the fit out, to the end result in the bottle… there is so much going on here. Plus there is an important link with gastronomy as they sell 80% of their wines to restaurants. Places such as Guy Savoir and La Tour d’Argent in Paris are high-profile examples of restaurants that use their own label in conjunction with this producer. Julien states they make 150,000 bottles on average per year and his passion for the Chardonnay dominant Champagnes from here is evident. In his words: “Chardonnay from Chouilly is good young or old - there is a high level of natural acidity”.

NV R & L Legras Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay)
High toned acidity, with lemon citrus, white flowers and a super dry finish (dosage 7 g/l). Lightness and elegance are the theme here.

2004 R & L Legras ‘Presidence’ Vieilles Vignes’ (100% Chardonnay)
Toasty brioche aromatics with baked brioche and toasted almonds but then fresher notes of young grapefruit and lime zest.

NV R & L Legras Rosé (85% Pinot Noir & 15% Chardonnay)

Subtle expression of pinot noir from Ambonnay with chardonnay kick and 7 g/l of dosage.

1996 R & L Legras ‘Saint-Vincent’ (100% Chardonnay)

This was the standout Champagne from our visit. Yes I know it’s from 1996, one of the best vintages of all time, but it was compelling and spell binding. Things like orange rind, almonds, hazelnuts all came through with incredible balance and poise. Could drink it all day – no problem!

GUY CHARLEMAGNE – Les Mesnil-Sur-Oger

It may be located just across the road from the exclusive ‘Salon’, but this Champagne house has remarkable personality in its own right. Located in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs, their vineyards total 15 h.a and the grapes are essentially chardonnay (87%) and the rest made up of pinot noir. Production is around 130,000 bottles a year of which 70% is exported. They also have vineyards in Sézanne. Sales manager Elodie Caraskakis took us through the range.

Old versus New labels

NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Nature (70% Chardonnay & 30% Pinot Noir)

This is their ‘no sugar’ example from the chalky soils of Sézanne. It is vinified in termo regulated stainless steel. Fresh but ripe… got some hints of green olive, white flowers and grapefruit.

NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Classic (80% Chardonnay & 20% Pinot Noir)

Powerful nose of ripe summer fruit (cherry plum). Smooth entry on the palate with pear and mandarin character with soft, dry but long finish. 8 g/l dosage.

NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)

Terroir in Sézanne is dominated by chalk and clay and the result here is a more masculine style and a strongly coloured wine. Riper dark berry fruits shine here (blackberries and kirsch).. strawberry jam on the mid palate but dry, opulent finish. 8 g/l dosage.

NV Guy Charlemagne ‘Reserve’ Brut Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay)

From vineyards in Mesnil sur Oger and Oger with limestone soil, High-toned acidity, super dry with green olive and some more complex candied fruit notes (pineapple and angelica). 6 g/l dosage.

HENRIET-BAZIN – Premier Cru & Grand Cru from Villers-Marmery

Henriet-Bazin. You know you’re enjoying things when you walk out after two hours and it felt like 10 minutes! From the get-go it was evident how much passion and pride are put into their wines and how excited they are about what they do – rightly so. For every Champagne we tasted Marie-Nöelle had in-depth descriptions of food matches. For someone to be obsessed with this as me it was 7th heaven, and to hear her different take on things was both enlightening and an inspiration to push the envelope.

We were shown examples of terroir and for the east exposed village of Villers-Marmery, it is made up of gravely chalk, crushed little rocks, so the roots are able to go deep, giving pure expressions. Bottles produced here range from 55,000 to 60,000 bottles a year. They are located in La Grande Montagne de Reims but they also own vineyards in Verzenay and Verzy.

NV Henriet-Bazin Cuvée Sélection de Parcelles Brut

NV Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut (100% Pinot Noir from Verzenay & Verzy)

Lots going on here with red apple, white pepper and then on the palate there is toasted bread, brioche and pineapple. 5 g/l dosage and 100% from 2008 harvest – super fresh with high-toned acidity.

NV Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Blancs Brut (100% Chardonnay from Villers-Marmery)

This is the ‘postcard’ wine of Villers-Marmery.. or as Nicolas puts it: “the little island of chardonnay in an ocean of pinot noir”. Things like liquorice, lemon verbena and honeysuckle dazzle the palate.. creamy effervescent finish with excellent lemony acidity and mineral freshness. 8 g/l dosage.

NV Henriet-Bazin Cuvée Sélection de Parcelles Brut (50% Pinot Noir & 50% Chardonnay)

‘Fresh and mature’ are two words that sum up this wine.. honeysuckle, lime and pistachio on the nose and then on the palate there are crystallized fruits with exotic acacia honey and star anise. 8 g/l dosage and 70% coming from the 2007 harvest, and 30% of reserve wine.

2006 Henriet-Bazin ‘Grand Cru’ Brut (65% Pinot Noir & 35% Chardonnay)

Fresh mint and garden herbs on the nose and then on the palate there is spicy notes and some denser yellow fruits (preserved peach) with cinnamon and hints of toasty almonds. Marie Nöelle and Nicolas relate the ‘almond’ characters to be linked with the minerality in the soil. 8 g/l dosage from the fruity 2006 vintage.

NV Henriet-Bazin Rosé Brut ‘Grand Cru’ (50% Chardonnay & 50% Pinot Noir)

Do you like a more ‘vinous’ style of Rosé? Then this is for you as it includes 19% of red wine made by them, using the wine issued from maceration! Fruity and concentrated nose with morello cherry, black pepper and clove.. Then creamy palate with dark red and black fruits shining.. blackcurrant, kirsch. A trademark of this range is the lemony acidity and this still comes through here, which keeps everything fresh. Sensual and homogenous! 8 g/l dosage.

TO WRAP IT UP:

Best champagne tasted:

1996 R & L Legras ‘Saint-Vincent’ Brut, Chouilly

Most exciting food & wine match:

NV Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Noirs Brut and quail breast with caramalized apple & mushroom risotto.

Best dining ‘experience’:

L’assiette de Champenoise in Reims – worthy of its 2 Michelin Stars and what a wine list! All pages meticulously maintained and attention to detail oustanding.

Best dish at L’assiette de Champenoise:

Foie gras du Perigord – shaved pheasant foie gras with sour cherries.

Melt in your mouth

Trends/Fashion:

In a nutshell most producers we spoke to this trip have seen in increase in Blanc de Noir sales and a decrease in Rosé popularity. Zero dosage wines (no sugar added) are on the up in popularity but consumers seem to have a love-hate relationship with them. So in essence most of these trends are in line with Australia except I would be interested to know how Rosé is fairing at home as from my end they seem to sell quite well at the moment, compared to a couple of years ago. Overall Australians are drinking more bubbly helped by the strong Aussie dollar driving shelf prices down. New figures from France's Champagne Bureau show Australia imported 4.862 million bottles in 2011, an increase of almost a third. America and Japan are other big movers in Champagne sales.

From a service end, a lot of restaurants/bars are moving away from serving Champagne in traditional flutes.. and the following type of white wine glass is being presented... bravo to that!

The move away from traditional flutes

My Best find for 2012 - High Altitude Sparkling

2012-12-06T14:10:00.000-08:00

2008 Courabyra '805' Sparkling, Tumbarumba NSW ($45)

Are you a thrill seeker? Like things from a high altitude? From colour to aroma, to flavour and the story... this sparkling wine has it all! It ticks all the boxes and we've had a wonderful response to it being poured by the glass at ARIA Sydney. It has been refreshing to find a wine with solid consistency and vibrancy of fruit.

It all started in April this year when I visited Eden Road winery in Murrumbateman for a Tumbarumba Workshop and International benchmark tasting. Amongst other great wines that day, I tried the 2001 Courabyra '805' Sparkling from Tumbarumba. I fell in love with this wine. A few months later I tried the 2008 and haven't looked back since. I've written about wines tasting better when consumed in their own territory. Courabyra sparkling wines taste great at their origin but they also taste delicious when consumed from far away.

Courabyra means 'pleasant place, family gathering' in Aboriginal. It is a sub-region that sits about 6km north of Tumbarumba, and is located 730 metres above sea level in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains, near Australia's highest peak Mount Kosciuszko. Wines from this sub-region typically produce styles that are high in natural acidity and minerality. The other sub-region of Tumbarumba is Maragle which is south and lower altitude, producing more textural wines with upfront fruit character.

Courabyra wines is the project of Brian and Cathy Gairn who established the vineyard site in 1993. The logo has been designed around the family theme as Cathy is one of eleven children. The circle in the middle of the logo represents one family member with ten siblings around the outside. The '805' refers to the vineyard address.

The 2008 is a blend of 62% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay and 8% pinot meunier. The wine spent 3.5 years on lees and was disgorged in November 2011. The sparkling base wine was put through malolactic fermentation.

Tasting notes: amazing light straw colour with aromas of pear skin, mineral and warm brioche. Soft, creamy palate with citrus backbone and hints of red currants, gingerbread and figs. Dry finish.

Would go well with: tuna sashimi & seaweed salad, BBQ snapper with mushroom risotto, gruyere or strong washed rind cows milk cheeses.

Tell your friends: Tumbarumba was named by the Wiradjuri people to mean 'Hollow Sounding Ground'.

Impress your friends: serve this sparkling in a Riedel pinot noir glass if you are pairing it with a main course. Being Pinot Noir dominant this will help bring out those red fruit flavours and will also soften the texture of the wine. If you want to stick with a classy champagne flute then I'd recommend the brand Zalto from Austria (pictured below). They are mouth-blown, look amazing, plus they are lead oxide free which results in a lighter, more flexible glass. Best of all they are well priced.

Zalto Champagne Flute

To buy Courabyra: Click here to get some bubbles for Christmas ($45 per bottle)!

Hands down this is my best find for 2012 and without a doubt one of the finest producers of sparkling wine in Australia. Make your own mind up and try a bottle.

2011 Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley - A wine by Matt Dunne

2012-09-12T21:33:00.000-07:00

My first release - food-friendly pinot noir from a trio of single vineyards

2011 Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley Victoria

It's always been a dream of mine to get involved with producing a wine and last year I was excited to be given the opportunity. The concept of the brand 'Drake' is about enjoying interesting wine with great food. 'Drake' is a male duck, which is the ultimate food match with pinot noir, whilst the name 'Samson' refers to two guys with plenty of curly hair, and a bit of flair! Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir is a collaboration between the Yarra Valley’s Mac Forbes and myself (us of the curly hair). 2011 was a wet and cold vintage – a struggle for many. The wines I have seen so far are all lighter coloured styles but deceptively full flavoured. I like the vintage for its approachability and elegance. They are wines to drink now but make your own mind up about the vintage as there are some good wines out there.

If you would like to try a bottle or 2 of Drake Samson, I've put details of how to order at the bottom of this post.

Why pinot? I love the wines of Burgundy so traditionally that would mean I have a soft spot for the king and queen varieties... Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I also love Mac’s single vineyard wines as they speak of their origin in the Yarra Valley - a region I have always been a fan of. Mac has a wealth of experience which also spans overseas where he makes wine in Austria every year. His attention to detail and respect of the fruit is shown strongly in his winemaking. From my end I wanted to help create a wine to suit modern cuisine, something interesting to think and talk about but at the same time not being too serious. A wine to enjoy no matter what the season, but with a good story.

Foot stomping the Seville fruit

Drake Samson turns Mac’s normal individual vineyard philosophy on its head, blending from three vineyards to create a style perfect for modern Australian cuisine. Killara vineyard is located on the banks of the Yarra River in Seville. We tasted through rows of berries in the vineyard, the higher up the riper and fuller they tasted - overall 2011 fruit is high in acidity with low sugars. Killara in 'Seville' makes up 33.3% of this blend and this site is made up of hard duplex soil bringing perfume, freshness and red currant crunch. 16.7% of the blend comes from the 'Yarra Glen' vineyard which offers tannic profile and chalkiness and is an east facing vineyard with granite soil. The third vineyard, 'Coldstream’, makes up most of the blend (50%) and is southwest facing, adding opulence and textural elements being a warmer site with greater sun exposure. Coldstream has grey loam soils overlaying clay and 13 year old vines. The MV6 clone is in all three vineyards and this is the sole clone used for the Drake.

The wine was hand picked and the cold soak was at 7 degrees. It spent 10 days on skins and was fermented in small open fermenters. Most of the fruit was destemmed, we used about 10% whole bunch. The purpose of using whole bunch is to trap perfume in the wine and to build some complexity. Primarily hand plunged and foot stomped before maturation in large French oak (Damy) with one quarter new. The wine was racked only once prior to bottling which was in March.

This year the 2012 vintage is looking really exciting and we are making a blend from two single vineyards - Coldstream and Seville. Stay tuned for an update on how it's progressing, the wines are currently in barrel and have just finished malolactic fermentation.

Tasting notes for 2011: Perfumed nose of sour cherries, cranberry and garden herbs and then a super light, nervy palate with spicy rhubarb, sweet raspberry and savoury tannin profile. Light bodied, full flavoured with a long, firm and dry finish with tight acid structure.

In the Mac Forbes Winery

Would go well with: Warm duck salad with roasted beetroot, quinoa, green beans and pomegranate. If you are into cheese I like this pinot with 'cloth aged' cheddar and quince paste. What is your favourite food match with pinot noir?

Tell your friends:  Pinot noir is one of the most versatile grape varieties on the planet.. serve it at room temperature or serve it slightly chilled to completely change its dimensions.

Quantity produced: 135 dozen

To order: RRP is $30 per bottle

1)   Order direct:  2 bottles for $60 | 6 bottles for $160 | 12 bottles for $280
       (All prices with free freight included)
2)   Contact Nicholas Crampton at Fourth Wave Wine
       nicholas@fourthwavewine.com.au or Mobile: 0417 670 655

Thanks: Big thanks to Mac Forbes, Nicholas Crampton, Tony Fikkers, Andrew Dunn, Aaron Woods & David Baxter for their efforts, patience and enthusiasm with this project.

Shot of the 2011 Fruit

A Cabernet that is devilishly good!

2012-04-26T17:00:00.000-07:00

This week at ARIA I sold two magnums of 1999 Domaine A Cabernet to a large table in for dinner. We sell these magnums for $495 a bottle. The wine is looking fantastic and reminded me I must share my earlier adventures to Tassie in 2012.

In February I had the opportunity to visit the Coal River Valley in Tasmania and in particular one of my all time favourite vineyards, Domaine A/Stoney Vineyard. The humble Peter and Ruth Althaus have owned the vineyard since 1989 and it's located about half an hour's drive north of Hobart. It was just by chance that I scheduled my visit an hour after Jancis Robinson MW (Master of Wine), who was in Tasmania and the keynote speaker for the 8th 'International Cool Climate Symposium'.

If your a Bordeaux fan you will love these wines... the 2006 Stoney Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon by Domaine A is an affordable cabernet blend that hits the mark.. It's from vines planted in 1973 and is made up 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. From a restaurant's point of view this is brilliant as being current release it has a few years bottle age on it (many current release wines need time in the cellar), it is good value for money and ready to drink now. It's stated that this wine is one that's meant for short to medium term cellaring. Fair enough, but I reckon it would go a bit longer as it has excellent natural acidity, which is a hallmark feature of all the Domaine A/Stoney Vineyard wines. They have a unique refreshing character on the palate which sets them apart.

Tasting notes: vibrant nose of cassis, blackcurrant, dark cherries and eucalyptus. The palate is medium to full-bodied with ripe blackcurrants and dark chocolate. There are grippy tannins and the finish is intense with slight earthy, gamey characters and some delicate spice elements (sage and dried oregano).

Would go well with: BBQ lamb cutlets marinated with olive oil, rosemary, sea salt and lemon zest. Serve it with a salad of white and purple cabbage, figs, walnuts, lots of fresh mint, balsamic and shaved parmesan.

Tell your friends: The Coal River Valley in Tasmania lies on the same latitude as Tuscany in Italy.

To buy: Click here to get your hands on a bottle of this tasty wine ($28 per bottle).

Stoney Vineyard used to produce a straight Zinfandel and how awesome it was to try the 1982 on this visit. Once again the acidity was still there and there was a delicate perfume with an interesting spicy, earthy red fruit base with leather and dried herbs on the back palate. Tassie reds can last the distance and this is a prime example of how well the Coal River Valley can tackle a late ripening variety such as Zinfandel.

Wine Myth Buster - Challenge Your Perceptions

2012-02-20T19:53:00.000-08:00

What are your thoughts on the old saying of 'white wine with white meat' and 'red wine with red meat'? Sure, there are some golden rules for food and wine matching and much can be said about that one combination you've had where everything worked in total unison and it took you to eternal bliss.

How do you feel about ordering wine before you order food? Will the kitchen be able to cope if they're a seafood restaurant and you want to drink blockbuster reds all night? One restaurant in Paris that puts wine first is 'Il Vino d'Enrico Bernardo'. They create your dish once you order the wine! Cool concept, very spontaneous and the creator is a trained chef who has also been crowned 'best sommelier in the world'. His name is Enrico Bernardo. Click here to check out his restaurant.

Why not push the boundaries and challenge your perceptions when it comes to food and wine combinations? You won't know until you try and that's half the fun! Here's some ideas to ponder:

Oysters natural with shallots, vodka & finger lime dressing - infuse a bottle of Belvedere vodka with the zest of 2-3 finger limes for 2 days. Finger limes are currently in season - don't use the pith as it will pollute the citrus infusion and I'd recommend straining out the zest once you are happy with the flavour. Keep in fridge and serve 30ml chilled with this dish for a refreshing match to get the palate going. Click here to grab a bottle of this Polish delight! ($59)
'BBQ chicken with tabouli, creamed corn & roasted spuds' - why not try a vintage beer? The 2011 Endeavour 'Reserve' Pale Ale is brewed just out of Sydney (Canyonleigh) and has the palate weight to pack a punch against this dish. There are three different types of hops used and the malty characters work a treat with the char of the chicken. Click here to buy a case. ($69)
'Crispy barramundi with mashed peas & braised fennel' - try a succulent pinot noir from a cool climate region such as the Canberra District. Nick Spencer is making some great wines down that way and his 2009 Eden Road 'The Long Road' Pinot Noir is vibrant and real winner with stronger, earthy fish such as barramundi. Click here to purchase. ($26 per bottle)
Veal schnitzel, cabbage salad & rosti - it's summer so why not venture down the Rosé path? A fresh, dry and more savoury style is recommended for this dish so I would suggest the biodynamic 2011 Krinklewood 'Francesca' Mourvèdre Rosé from the Hunter Valley. Click here to order some. ($25 per bottle)
Chocolate pudding with hazelnuts - aged Sake works a treat with dark chocolate - the 1999 Chōkyū ‘Noble Brew’ Sake from Wagayama prefecture in Japan ($69 per bottle) is sherry-like and has amazing rancio and sesame aromatics with hints of caramel and toffee on the palate. If you've never tried aged sake then what are you waiting for? If you haven’t got a sweet tooth then it also works well with mushroom consommé. Click here to grab some.

A glass of wine should be something you can enjoy with or without food. Take it as seriously as you like but why not try out something new with your friends at home? I'm keen to hear about your favourite combinations or any new discoveries you might find.

What to look for when ordering wine

2012-02-05T15:55:00.000-08:00

So you're at a restaurant with some friends or business associates and want to choose a bottle of wine from the list. Here's a few points to keep in mind:

First and foremost, don't be afraid to ask for assistance from the sommelier/wine staff. Most restaurants with globe trotting lists, such as ARIA, have dedicated wine staff who's job it is to know the wine list inside out and be able to make recommendations. Where possible be specific with your requests so you can get the best advice - do you want to enter the unknown, do you want to match wines to your meal, or can you suggest a favourite producer so the sommelier can get a feel for what style you like?
If the restaurant has a website do some research on-line before you dine to get a heads up on prices and perhaps some bottles you might like to try. Getting 'price-shock' when you look at the wine list on a date is never a good look!
Give the wine list and your guests equal but separate attention. Especially with extensive wine lists, it's too easy to drift in and out and give neither the list or your guests the attention they deserve. Take five minutes to focus in on what wine(s) you want, so you can give your guests your undivided attention for the rest of the evening.
Wines by the glass are becoming increasingly popular and are a great way to try different styles without breaking the budget. Plus, by-the-glass options have become much more versatile and savvy in recent times. If you're unsure, ask for a taste - great places welcome this. I'm a big fan of venues who pour wines by the glass at the table, although many don't.
Are you celebrating a birthday or anniversary? It's always fun and exciting to to try old wines from a specific vintage (year) that has special meaning.. it can take you back to a moment in time or that special place.
If it's an older wine, ask about its origin, where has it come from? When the wine bottle is presented to you at the table have a look at the neck of the bottle. How far is the level of the wine from top of the bottle? The term used to describe the fill level of wine is known as the 'ullage'. Evaporation is a natural occurrence in wine over time and the lower the ullage level means there is more space for oxygen within the bottle. This can increase the ageing process and can cause a higher rate of spoilage, often a result of poor storage or a faulty cork. For wines up to 20 years old in a riesling or burgundy-shaped bottle, ideally the level should be in the neck (about 2-3cm from the very top of the bottle). For wines more than 20 years old in the same format bottle you would expect the fill level to be about 4cm from the top. For 30 plus years a 5cm level is not uncommon. For bordeaux-style bottles, the ullage is measured using a different level rating system. For example, a bottle with a 'base neck' fill (BN) indicates the fill is at the bottom of the neck which is an excellent level for any wine 10 years or over. Always have a look at the cork once opened and depending on how old it is and the variety, get advice on whether to have it decanted. Timing is everything!
Vintages vary so do your homework on the best years for a particular wine or ask your sommelier. At the same time it's good for you to form your own opinion - if there is a larger group why not try the same wine from different vintages? It's a great opportunity (and talking point) to see how a wine varies from vintage to vintage.

Whatever the case or the occasion it's all about enjoyment.. at the end of the day wine is there as one of the elements to help enhance your dining experience, whether you're after a glass or a bottle :)

A great Champagne cocktail - for those not having a dry January!

2012-01-02T15:39:00.000-08:00

Well Christmas and New Year's is done for another year, and as always it was extremely busy at ARIA Restaurant. Around this time customers interest turns to Champagne - it's still a traditional way to celebrate good times and special occasions.

Here's a simple but classy Champagne cocktail I found myself making a lot of this last month. For those of you who still have the energy to enjoy a tipple in January - try this out and you'll see why it's so popular.

It's an old school cocktail that's easy to prepare at home or when your out. It's the delicious 'Classic Champagne Cocktail', which was created in the early 1800s. Here's what you need to make it:

Ingredients:

Dash Angostura Bitters
1 x sugar cube
100ml Champagne (or Sparkling Wine)
20ml Cognac (optional)
Lemon twist garnish

Method:

Coat sugar cube with bitters and place in bottom of Champagne flute. If your after a bit of an extra kick start then add 20ml Cognac into the glass. Top with Champagne or sparkling wine. Lemon twist to garnish.
The sugar cube and bitters offers a nice contrast as it dissolves in the bottom of the glass. The lemon citrus garnish is really important too.

For the festive period I've been drinking the NV Veuve Fourny 'Grande Réserve' Premier Cru Brut from Avize in Champagne. It represents such good value and is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. It has an attractive complexity and creaminess (from the pinot) yet maintains a freshness with notes of green apple and citrus whilst it maintains pinpoint acidity.

Click here to get your hands on a bottle. ($59 per bottle)

Wishing you good cheer and all the best for 2012!

And the winner is...

2011-12-14T15:15:00.000-08:00

Congratulations goes to Neil Beck of Robina in Queensland, who is our winner of the 2006 Standish Wine Co. 'The Standish' Shiraz Magnum from Barossa Valley - well done! Thanks to everyone who entered. Stay tuned as early next year we will choose another great bottle of wine to give away to one of our subscribers.

Wine Cocktails - Sophisticated and Retro

2011-12-10T20:08:00.000-08:00

It's December and your probably crazy busy with Christmas parties over the next few weeks. If you're thinking about having a party yourself then why not consider these 'wine lover' cocktails?

Wine-based cocktails...This is where sommeliers and bar tenders get the chance to team up to create some exciting combinations. For me, it's cool to see wine in a different light, where its 'part' of something as opposed to the main focal point. More and more restaurants are incorporating wine-based cocktails, beer and sake into tasting menus in search of matches to take things over the edge.

'Virtually Venice' (Sophisticated)

30ml Veneto inspired red (I'd recommend the 2007 Freeman 'Secco' from Hilltops in NSW)
Freshly pulped raspberry (use 10)
30ml Dubonnet (a sweet wine-based aperitif)
30ml Armagnac
Sugar syrup
Prosecco sparkling wine

Method: Thoroughly pulp raspberry, red wine, sugar syrup, dubonnet and armagnac. Add ice then shake and strain. Slowly pour Prosecco in champagne flute over the pulped mixture. Garnish with one raspberry.

Would go well with: Turkey and cranberry sauce, cured ham & olives, roasted pork with apple sauce.

Tell your friends: The Freeman 'Secco' red is a blend of rondinella and corvina - these are the prized amarone grapes which are natives of the Veneto region in north-east Italy, but do well in Hilltops too.

Click here to buy a bottle of 2007 Freeman 'Secco' from Hilltops ($30 per bottle)

Click here to buy NV Serafini & Vidotto Bollicine di Prosecco from Veneto ($20 per bottle)

'Santa's Slay' (Sophisticated)

15ml campari
10ml ruby red grapfruit juice
45ml tanqueray gin
150ml dry rosé style Sparkling or Champagne (for the foam)
20ml rose syrup (for the foam)
300ml egg whites (for the foam)

Method: Muddle 1/3 ruby red grapefruit with a teaspoon of white sugar, add the campari and tanqueray, add ice, shake and double strain into a martini glass. To make the foam you will need a cream whipper/soda syphon.. Add 300ml of egg whites, 150ml dry rosé sparkling and 20ml of rose syrup in a boston shaker. Then add this to the soda syphon and charge. I'd recommend charging it twice. If you haven't got a syphon then not to worry, just use a mix master to blend the mix thoroughly. Then you are set to layer the top of martini glass with the Rose emulsion.

Tell your friends: It's not from Champagne but it's French, dry and delicious. The NV Bouvet Rosé Excellence is a great value alternative, it is made in the Loire Valley from Cabernet Franc.

Click here to buy a cream whipper/soda syphon (approx $95 each).
Click here to buy some NV Bouvet 'rosé excellence' brut ($34 per bottle).

'Wet Your Whistle' (Retro)

60ml Henriques & Henriques Madeira 'Monte Secco Extra Dry' 3 year old
1/2 fresh lime
Dash bitters
Soda water

Method: Squeeze fresh lime over ice in highball glass. Add dash bitters. Fill half way with soda and then add 60ml Madeira. Add touch more soda..Stir with swizzle stick.

Would go well with with: Smoked salmon with capers, fresh prawns with aioli, spring rolls with sweet chilli sauce. If you want to give the Madeira a go by itself then serve it chilled - it would go great with christmas pudding or hard cheese with quince paste and crackers.

Tell your friends: The island of Madeira is located west of Morocco in the Atlantic Ocean. It has become famous for its fortified wine, which is deliberately heated to replicate the sea voyages during the 'Age of Exploration', where intense movement and equatorial temperatures transformed the wine into Madeira (an accident that was meant to be!).

Recommended: At the start of the evening to get the palate going.

Click here to buy some lip smacking Madeira for this great aperitif cocktail! ($26 per bottle)

'80s Wine Cooler' (Retro)

30ml cointreau
30ml strawberry liqueur
Riesling (I'd use something youthful, bone dry from the Eden Valley, South Australia)
Macerated fruits (blueberry, strawberry, raspberry, mulberry). Ideally you want to macerate the fruit in the cointreau and strawberry liqueur for 48 hours before using to intensify the flavours.

Method: Mix macerated fruits thoroughly and then in a white wine glass pour the Riesling over the macerated fruit mix. If you like a bit of spritz then add some ice and soda. Serve in a wine glass.

Recommended: Making a pre-mix fruit maceration in bulk to save time.

As another option to keep the 'red' theme going, you might want to consider a sparkling shiraz at some point as it will also pair nicely with your turkey, ham and of course... the legendary pudding. Stay tuned for more on this delicious drop!

Win a Shiraz Magnum - just in time for the festive season!

2011-12-02T15:41:00.000-08:00

Magnums are a larger format of wine bottle (1.5 litres) that look fantastic, plus they are a great way to celebrate the festive season.. and for a bigger parties of people they tend to last that little bit longer! Wine typically ages slower and more evenly out of magnum, as the ratio of wine to air is greater.

It's getting close to the 10th of December, when we'll be giving away a Magnum of 2006 Standish 'Standish' Shiraz from the Barossa worth over $200. It's not too late to enter the competition - just by subscribing to this blog or leaving a comment puts you in the draw for this fantastic wine.

And if you've got friends and family who are interested in wine - let them know about it - if they win the Magnum I'm sure they'll invite you over to help drink it!

The Standish Wine Company make real wines that uniquely express the Barossa Valley- they have a distinct personality. The 2006 Standish 'Standish' Shiraz is from a single vineyard planted in 1912 and soils are fine white sand over deep, heavy red clay. The talented Dan Standish, ex Torbreck, comes from a 6th generation Barossan grape growing family, so he knows a thing or two about the Barossa. Plus he has gained incredible international experience in Spain, America and France.

The 2006 Standish has a mouthwatering silky texture backed up by intense blackberry and plum notes and aromatic spices. Delicious now but also set up for the long-term.

Thanks everyone for your support so far - and good luck on December 10th for the competition!

Pinot Noir - Try these two Australian wonder drops

2011-11-03T16:46:00.000-07:00

Pinot Noir produces some of the most expressive (and expensive!) wines on the planet. It's a variety that is super versatile with food and on its day can fly solo like no other. Pinot Noir is known as the 'king' of red grape varieties and the name is derived from the French words for 'pine' and 'black' which alludes to the varietal's tightly clustered, pine-cone shaped bunches. Typically, it is thin skinned with small berries.

The popularity of pinot has risen dramatically in the last few years, and a more defined approach in Australia has seen significant sub-regional differences from individual wine regions. For me, good Pinot is so appealing as although it contains tannins, it can be the most silky, slurpy and downright seductive drink around. One of my all time favourite 'pinot' moments was opening a 1987 Mount Mary Pinot at ARIA, and it being every bit as delicious as I'd hoped - the acidity was still in check and it had really interesting secondary characters.

Victoria in Australia hails as one of the best producing cool climate pinot states and is one of my all time favourite places to visit.... but I thought it would be exciting to highlight a couple of 'lesser' known, but still excellent quality regions that can sing a serious pinot song.

2005 Hatherleigh Pinot Noir, Southern Tablelands New South Wales ($45 per bottle)

This Pinot is made by 'Master of Wine' Nick Bullied, and the vineyard is located in the Southern Tablelands of New South Wales. Nick is a long-term Brokenwood partner, show judge and wine-maker.. These vines are located at Crookwell, at the Great Diving Range, so the vineyard is in excess of 900 metres altitude. The label is Hatherleigh and the current release comes from the 2005 vintage. This wine shows how good a pinot can look when it's given some extra time in bottle to develop. Bravo to Nick for holding the wine back.

Tasting notes: light body, brick red hue with aromatics of sour cherry, stewed plum, damp earth and spice. The palate has a 'Euro' feel with great intensity and unique, grippy tannins that cry out for some food.

Would go well with: mushroom risotto with parmesan cheese, charcuterie plate with calamata olives and anchovy sticks, natural rinded cow's milk cheeses. If your a fish fanatic then Barramundi is a winner with this - it has an earthy complexity and with a red wine based sauce it would marry well.

Tell your friends: There are currently 299 people who have the 'Master of Wine' qualification in the world and 18 come from Australia.

To serve: If you can serve your pinot around 16 degrees it will gradually warm up nicely in the glass. If you serve it lightly chilled then you can pair it with a greater array of dishes.

To buy: Click here to get your hands on a bottle of Nick's pinot (or two!).

2009 The Lake House 'Premium Reserve' Pinot Noir, Denmark Great Southern WA ($45 per bottle)

The second pinot of interest is from Denmark in the Great Southern region of Western Australia.. Denmark is one of five sub-regions of Great Southern and is set in a stunning location. 'The Lake House' vineyard are making some exciting pinot that will make you take another sip. Dynamic duo, Garry Capelli (owner and vigernon) and James Kellie (winemaker) are pushing boundaries and their inspiration has come from Vanya Cullen's biodynamic practices in Margaret River.

Great Southern, like Margaret River, is typically more famous for Chardonnay and Cabernet, due to the warmer climates and more coastal influences. On a wine list, I've found that listing pinots from W.A attracts interest, and at ARIA we have had great success with Picardy wines from Pemberton, which I believe age exceptionally well.

Tasting notes: super light bodied with aromas of rhubarb, wild sage, freshly cut strawberries.. leading to a red fruit laden palate with a velvety texture and a lick of cedary/toasty oak on the back.

Would go well with: duck breast with pomegranates & rocket with balsamic glaze, italian sausages with grilled onions and sweet potato mash, peking duck pancakes, roasted pork belly with hoisin sauce.

Tell your friends: The Pannell family of Picardy in Pemberton are the pioneers of Pinot Noir in Western Australia. They founded Moss Wood in Margaret River in 1969. Try their Tete de Cuvee pinot (best of vintage) - one of Australia's finest and one that will age gracefully.

To buy: Click here to grab a bottle of this Western Australian wonder drop.

Organic Sake that tastes like pears

2011-10-05T17:01:00.000-07:00

Akishika Shuzō 'Pressed Moto' Sake 2010, Ōsaka Japan ($56.50)

Sake is a super unique fermented beverage that's essentially made from rice, water, yeast and kōji (mold). The first records of Sake production date back to approximately 300 AD. I still see it as an under-rated beverage, but its popularity is increasing as is the awareness of how versatile and delicious it can be.

Courtesy of artisan purveyor 'Black Market Sake' we now have the opportunity to explore and taste some exciting styles of Sake never seen before in Australia that have been sourced from the finest Master Brewers in Japan. The common theme throughout the range is that they are made without the addition of distilled alcohol (Junmai-shu). Some brewers of cheap Sake use lots of alcohol in order to increase yields but in this case it's all about quality. The end result is incredibly pure examples which work well both as aperitifs and at different stages throughout a meal. I love them because they offer textures and flavours that enter the unknown... they will change your perception forever! At ARIA, we have had great success in using some older Sake (up to 33 years old) as alternatives for sherry or madeira in food and wine combinations.

Sake producer Akishika Shuzō from Ōsaka has been around since a staggering 1886 and the brewing of Sake in this prefecture began in the middle ages. The current master brewer at Akishika is Oku-san, a sixth generation owner who is setting incredibly high standards for others to aspire to. This 'Pressed Moto' is a very unique Sake where before main fermentation Oku-san creates a starter mash known as the 'Mother of Sake', which is known locally as 'Moto' (yeast starter). This begins the fermentation of the main Sake mash. The traditional Yamahai method (created in 1909) is used here which takes about a month (for more modern sake methods this time is less), but the main focus from the brewer is to capture the heart or core of the Sake, so the lactobacillus bacteria from the air is allowed to join the Moto (creating lactic acid). The result is a full-flavoured Sake with lower alcohol.

Akishika Shuzō - the Koji Rice

Tasting Notes: pale straw colour, this sake has aromas of pear skin, granny smith apple and bran whilst the palate is remarkably refreshing with tangy citrus, grapey notes and a super-light, slightly sweet finish. If your a fan of pear cider then this Sake is for you.

Glassware: use your normal wine glasses - I really like the Riedel 'O' Series glasses (without stems), which keeps things informal but you still get all the aromatics and flavour profiles from the Sake.

Rice Variety: Omachi (like wine grape varieties, there are many rice types used in Sake, each of which exhibit different aromas and flavours).

Polishing: for this Sake it is 70%... varying polishing percentages present different flavours and aromas.

Alcohol: this weighs in at 5.7% by volume which is very low compared to the more usual 14-18%.

Tell your friends: Sake contains no tannins and generally has a lower acidity than wine, making it more versatile than wine for food matching. Tannins can give astringent or a tart taste in wine, but with Sake the removal of tannin bran during the milling process means the Sake will avoid these characters.

Would go well with: serve it chilled with smoked salmon and popped corn, roast pork with glazed apple, foie gras or duck liver parfait with rhubarb ... or in the dessert department I like it with passionfruit souffle, fruit-based desserts -even something really simple and fresh like mixed berry salad with pear sorbet.

Try it in a cocktail: This week we created and tried this new recipe out.. it's delicious:

45ml Akishika Sake
30ml Vodka
Fresh Lavender
15ml Sugar Syrup
1/2 Freshly Cut Pear

Muddle fresh pear and lavender together, add sugar syrup and then add the sake. Shake and strain and serve super chilled in a Martini glass. Garnish with thinly sliced pears.

To buy: Approx $56.50 for a 300ml bottle (or cheaper in a six pack).. the best part is it will last for weeks once you open it.. Just keep it in the fridge. Click here to enquire about it from Annandale Cellars. Or call to order some: +61 2 9660 1947.

To find out more: To visit the Black Market Sake website and to explore their uber drops click here .

The 'Moto Room' at Akishika Shuzō

Thinking outside the square - try this food and wine match at home

2011-09-22T17:13:00.000-07:00

Last week my blog was all about food and wine matching and it proved to be very popular so I thought I'd share the food and wine match entry I submitted for the '2011 Yarrabank Sommelier of the Year' which is run in conjunction with Gourmet Traveller Magazine.

This match is left of centre, but I wanted something unique and interesting while still being practical. I was lucky enough to be this year's runner up and below you'll see what I put forward.

And the great thing is at the bottom of this post is everything you need to re-create both this dish and the wine match at home - if your up for the challenge!

Recipe Name: Roast breast of pasture fed chicken with chicken oysters, 'mac and cheeese', mushrooms, leeks and turnips.

Chefs: Matt Moran and Ben Turner

Wine Match: I chose the 2001 Yarrabank 'late disgorged' Cuvée (sparkling wine made from a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir at Yering Station in Victoria) to match this dish from ARIA Sydney's menu to put a new spin on the classic marriage of sparkling wine and cheese. This wine has added complexity for 8 years on lees.

The chicken (from Bega NSW) is succulently sweet and melts in your mouth, the chicken oyster beignets bring savoury, herbal characters whilst the 'mac and cheese' adds complexity. The jus gras tops the dish alongside mushrooms sautéed with eschallots, garlic and cream.

The 2001 Yarrabank 'Late Disgorged' Cuvée works so well with this dish because it keeps a good line of acidity, cutting through the cheese component, whilst still working in harmony with the chicken and the more savoury elements in the mushroom duxelle.

This wine match has two key concepts - texture and temperature. That's why I chose to serve the Yarrabank in two different glasses, at two different temperatures, but at the same time.

Glass 1
Ten minutes prior to the dish being served, carefully decant a quarter of the bottle of Yarrabank into the 'Ovarius' decanter - a decanter originally developed in the Jura region of France, designed to enhance sparkling wine to showcase 'true terroir' characters through kinetic energy. (These are all hand blown decanters and are endorsed by some big name champagne producers). A taste can then be poured into a Red Burgundy glass just before the dish arrives.

Glass 2
Once the decanted Yarrabank is poured, immediately serve the same amount from the chilled bottle into a clean Champagne flute for the same person.

Explanation
When tasting this dish you get two small portions of the 2001 Yarrabank, in two different glasses, at two different temperatures. The decanted Yarrabank is more specifically for the two meat components of the dish, the breast and the chicken oyster biegnets. The bubbles are diffused in the decanter, resulting in a more 'creamy' texture, therefore showcasing more secondary characters such a brioche and also some earthy, herbal characters, which ties in well with the dish. This glass is to be tried first and for me it's great to see this almost as a 'still' wine.

The second taste is from the Champagne flute and this is to be tried shortly after. For me, this is more suited to the 'mac and cheese' and mushroom duxelle in this dish as it not only cuts through the richness from these ingredients, it leave the palate feeling fresh, enticing you to take another bite.

Idea behind the match
The idea of this match was to celebrate sparkling wine and to show how it can be enjoyed be over the course of a whole meal, as opposed to having it as an aperitif or for the first course. In addition I wanted to show how a decanted glass of sparkling wine can take you on a different journey than that of a traditionally served 'glass of bubbles'. This can become a talking point for you and your friends and open the door to a larger spectrum of food and wine combinations.

To cook: To cook pasture fed chicken with chicken oysters, 'mac and cheese', mushrooms, leeks and turnips click here.

To drink: To buy the 2001 Yarrabank 'Late Disgorged' Cuvée Sparkling ($45 per bottle), Click here.

To decant: To buy a groovy Ovarius decanters, Click here. Can be used for whites and reds too..

Tell your guests: Yering Station is Yarra Valley's first vineyard (planted in 1838) and Yarrabank is a joint venture between Yering Station and Champagne house Devaux, making for one heck of team.

And finally, congratulations to Matt Brooke from Circa in Melbourne who pipped me at the post to be this year's winner - well done! To check out more about the competition, the finalists, and some other great recipes and matches, click here.

Food and Wine Matching Demystified

2011-09-14T21:57:00.000-07:00

Food and wine matching has been practised around the world for thousands of years and it's one of the most pleasurable yet challenging aspects of my job.

As head sommelier of ARIA I'm lucky enough to get feedback from customers on our matches. It's often the match you think will work that doesn't and vice versa - but that's half the fun. At the end of the day it's a matter of personal opinion what works and what doesn't but here are some thoughts to get you started.

The 'old school' train of thought is to match wines with food that has a similar or shared intensity (eg rich food with rich wine, or more delicate dishes with more elegant wines). Wine and food pair well when they share common ground or backbone, just like people. For example, twice cooked pork belly with glazed apple would typically marry well with an off-dry chenin blanc from the Loire Valley. This is because on the palate there are similar textures but the fruit sweetness of this wine would marry perfectly with the stickiness of the pork and the subtle apple component.
The 'opposites attract' (yin and yang) strategy was a revelation about 20 years ago and is still used and followed today.. this is where you might have a rich ingredient and use a wine to essentially 'cut' through it.. Such a match would be ripe Brie de Meaux cow's milk cheese paired with a non-vintage blanc de blancs champagne to go against the grain and cut through the oily richness.
Temperature and timing- are you serving the wine at the correct temperature? A red or white served too cold or warm may impair its true profile and hinder its partnership with the food. Decanting white (yes whites) and red (and even sparkling) is a good way to bring wines to their optimum drinking temperatures and can also change/enhance their textures, flavour profiles and mouthfeel, making for more versatile options across a whole meal as opposed to just one course.
Always try to consider the focal point.. are you wanting to showcase a 'special' wine to your friends? In that case the food should work around the wine and play second fiddle, or are you promoting a certain dish or theme, in which case the wine should be part of the backstage crew.
You need to consider the cooking techniques (eg is it confit or grilled), plus what condiments/sauces (acidic or creamy?) are used as these all influence how a wine will pair 'overall'. A simple dish with a potent sauce can often over-power a wine and the same can be said on the flipside.
For sweet foods... serve a riper style of wine from a warmer vintage, or choose a wine that has a similar degree of sweetness so they are on the same page (eg German Riesling from 2003).
For salty foods.... look at an off-dry or slightly sweet wine as they compliment each other. Avoid high-alcohol wines or those with dominant oak. (eg try Alsace Pinot Gris or Joven Tempranillo).
For spicy foods.... go for wines with some residual sugar or fruit sweetness, or dry and fresh Rosé (Bandol from Provence) is always a good option. Gewürztraminer often has the spicy backbone to cover all bases but as a back-up I'd recommend you buy some beer as your secret weapon.
For bitter foods.... opt for wines high in acidity and that perhaps have a bit of oak dominance, drying tannins or a savoury finish (Italy is good.. Nebbiolo for red or for white try a Vermentino).
For foods that are tart.... go for a wine with similar astringency or with greener characters. Give red wine a miss here. (whites of choice: Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc or young hunter semillon)

Try the following experiments out on your friends - it's far better to get as many people involved as possible so I reckon its a good excuse for a dinner party! And as always I'd love to hear your comments on what you uncovered.

Try the same wine but in two different glasses to compare contrasting aromas, textures and flavours. Glassware can make a massive difference so best to experiment.
Try the same dish but with three different wines and go through a process of elimination, from worst to best. Do they sing on the palate with the dish or does one stick out more than it should?
It's amazing what sight can do to 'trick' your mind. It might make for a strange looking dinner party, but try a dish and the wine while blindfolded. Pre-conceived ideas can limit a 'match made in heaven'. Let the aromas and your taste buds do the talking.

One of the most inspiring 'wine and food' days I have had this year was with Catherine Faller of Domaine Weinbach in Alsace, France in June. Her passion and enthusiasm blew me away and I really like her philosophy of producing wines of 'emotion' and 'pleasure'. When Catherine talked about their wines she kept listing great food matches. She also had a great analogy: "the best wines I've tried are like a fine painting - everything is in balance and harmony. The closer you get the more complex it is". Catherine younger sister, Laurence, makes the wines now and a white of particular interest I tried that day was the 2009 Reserve Gewürztraminer which they paired with some Choucroute (local pork specialty), Foie Gras and Gruyere. Pretty senstational stuff - one of the best I've tried...Gewürztraminer is the most aromatic grape variety in Alsace, on the nose there was a seductive perfume of pink florals (rose petals) with spicy sandlewood and candied orange peel, whilst the palate was silky with opulent stone fruits (white peach). Powerful wine with some residual sugar but balanced by impeccable acidity.

The 2009 vintage of this wine is arriving on Australian shores soon. Click here to purchase. ($67 per bottle)

At the end of day keep food and wine matching fun - it's awesome to see faces light up when you get it right. If you can think outside the square and try some new techniques then you can experience a new journey, or perhaps re-live a favourite memory or blast from the past that can transport you to that special time or place.

Go on - I dare you to try a Riesling!

2011-09-07T23:19:00.000-07:00

Riesling originates from Germany, first appearing in the Rhiengau region in 1435. Its popularity is improving but it continues to be 'hot and cold' in the Australian market and with so many different styles people often still have the notion that it's going to be sweet. In our restaurant it does have a following but it's often only sold by recommendation. Many sweeter styles are produced (Australia included) but I challenge you to grab a bottle of a 'dryer' style, such as a young Clare Valley Riesling, and give it a red hot go. Why? Because in my mind, Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food due to its acidity, plus it can live a long life and to see it evolve over time is both intriguing and rewarding.

So what is 'dry' Riesling? In Australia it's generally a Riesling with less than 8 grams of residual sugar per litre. Meanwhile the European Union classifies 'dry' as no more than 4 grams of residual sugar per litre.. no wonder things get confusing! German wines labelled as 'trocken' (dry) are a good place to start, and are generally softer in their youth than most Australian Rieslings, usually there is a bit more fruit sweetness and the alcohol is a bit lower.

Kerri Thompson makes some of the best and purest Riesling in Australia. Kerri is the owner/winemaker for 'wines by KT' in the Clare Valley and her CV includes previously being winemaker at Leasingham and working abroad both in Tuscany and France (Beaujolais). Kerri only picked 1 in 3 bunches during the very wet 2011 harvest, thus the yields are down on the previous vintage. I have just tried her latest single vineyard releases and they are wines that will challenge your previous perceptions of Riesling.

This set of KT Riesling is on the 'dryer' scale and I like them because they have personality, energy and precision. They also have a 'calmness' about them. Kerri has adopted a natural farming philosophy going down the path of biodynamic practices. This has lead to more microflora activity in the soil and improved that quality of the fruit. Here's a run down of some of her latest gems:

2011 'Peglidis Vineyard' Watervale Riesling by KT ($32 per bottle)
- highly aromatic and fresh with tangy citrus punch upfront (limey slate) and a dry, chalky finish.

2011 'Churinga Vineyard' Watervale Riesling by KT ($32 per bottle)
- riper than the Peglidis with floral fennel notes and lime/lemon freshness. Some more exotic yellow fruit characters. Finishes dry and clean.

2011 'Melva' Watervale Riesling by KT ($28 per bottle)
- contains about 9 grams of residual sugar, more of an off-dry style (slight sweetness). Same citric profile with with a more pillowy texture and softer framework. More opulence and upfront primary fruits.

Tasting Notes for Dryer Rieslings
Goes well with: Japanese cuisine (particularly sushi), quiche (holds up to egg really well), sweet shellfish. Gruyere style cheeses are also great with aged Riesling.

Try this with your guests: Serve a young Riesling blind to your friends against a Sauvignon Blanc (same vintage) and ask them to pick which they prefer. But the catch is... they must decide which they like better with and without food! Then come back and leave us some comments on what you find - I think you'll be surprised!

Cellaring potential: 3-20+ years, depending on region and vintage. As Riesling ages it typically becomes riper, darker and more textural, with softening acidity and less upfront fruit characters. Sometimes the older vintages have distinct kerosene characters on the nose. This can create great synergy with the honey and toasty notes on the palate.

To buy: If you want a dryer style of Riesling you need to look for a wine with lower sugar levels. Many Aussie producers now show the 'RS' (Residual Sugar) amount on the front label (eg RS 16). So keep an eye out for an RS that's 8 or less for a dryer wine. Otherwise if you're unsure then consult with the sommelier/wine merchant to guide you in your choice. Cheers!

What's Hot for Beer O'Clock?

2011-08-30T18:52:00.000-07:00

Burleigh Brewing Co. '28 Pale Ale', Queensland 330ml ($60 for a case of 24 bottles)

I don't know about you but after tasting all this wine I need a cleanser.. a beer that I can drink both with or without food. In my travels up to ARIA Brisbane I've discovered a great little independent brewer on the Gold Coast that's going from strength to strength. They do a bunch of hand-crafted beers that have hit the world stage and they've already won some high profile awards at the World Championships abroad. The hard work is now paying off for Gold Coast couple, Peta and Brennan Fielding, and Brennan has been mastering the art for a while now, a brewer for 17 years with previous stints in Hawaii and Japan.

At the moment I'm loving their '28 Pale Ale' which is a medium bodied American style but packed full of flavour. At Burleigh Heads (Queensland) in the 1970s there was a famous 28-day swell and this beer has been dedicated to that moment in time, in a throw back style that you can enjoy with your mates.

Tasting Notes: pours cloudy and is copper coloured with vibrant hoppy aromas - scents of squeezed lime and grapefruit twist. The palate is a ripper with some more bolder tropical fruits such as passionfruit and guava with a hint of caramel on the back.

Would Go Well With: something super spicy like Som Tum if you like Thai Food (green papaya salad with thai red chilli), otherwise the brewers choice is Moroccan Lamb. I also rate it alongside satay chicken.

Tell Your Friends: According to Wikipedia; "Pale ale was a term used for beers made from malt dried with coke (a processed form of coal). Coke had been first used for roasting malt in 1642, but it wasn't until around 1703 that the term pale ale was first used".

To Buy: Click here to buy a case for the fridge.

Does wine travel well? Things to consider when purchasing a foreign drop.

2011-08-29T03:48:00.000-07:00

2009 Domaine Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté, Burgundy France ($32 per bottle)

They say Guinness beer doesn't travel well and that a pint in Ireland tastes better than anywhere else in the world - purists say once it's travelled across the River Liffey that runs down the centre of Dublin it's travelled too far! Can the same be said for wine? Have you every had a bottle of wine overseas and then tried it again at home only to be disappointed? Did it taste better because you were in 'the moment' - what wine wouldn't taste great sitting in a cafe in France with loved ones! - or does the process of shipping wine cause it to change? Australia is a long distance away from some of the 'old world' wine regions - so it's something worth thinking about next time you splurge on a special bottle or two.

In my view wines do seem fresher at their origin, especially when you're not tasting these wines every vintage. A wine can take some time to recover from bottle shock (or sickness) due to transport from overseas, making it seem unbalanced or disjointed in its early life. For a new vintage this could last only a couple of days or weeks while for much older, more fragile bottles this can cause irreversible damage. If a red wine has sediment then stand the bottle upright for a couple of days to let everything settle downwards. As well as time spent in transport, exposure to heat and light can also be an issue. Heat and light speed up the ageing process of a wine's life, and a 'cooked' wine brings unpleasant odours and flavours, making it undrinkable.

As a general rule you're better off buying an overseas wine from a reputable distributor when you get home rather than trying to ship it home yourself or via a general courier company. The same can be said about purchasing wines online from overseas - make sure the courier company they use are diligent about what they're doing!

The 2009 Bourgogne Aligoté from Domaine Goisot is a white wine that tasted different (but delicious) on its home turf compared to back here in Australia. When I visited the cellars in France this June it tasted rich but fresh with green melon characters (honeydew) on the palate and aromatic herbal notes with some intense exotic notes. Last week I tried it again back in Australia and although I thought it showed a similar freshness, the palate to me seemed slightly riper with some more nectarine notes and a slight creamy edge. The acidity and backbone were still firm (a trademark) with a fresh finish to keep everything in balance.

Domaine Goisot is a fully-biodynamic producer located in Saint-Bris which is the biggest village in Burgundy, located in greater Chablis. Father and son team, Jean-Hughes and Guilhem Goisot are the current wine-making team, but the family has been there since 1596! The incredible cave underneath the winery was built between the 11th and 12th century. Aligoté is a variety that has been around since the 11th century and the vines at Goisot are are between 30 and 90 years old.

Domaine Goisot is an exciting producer to follow closely and if your a fan of a textural white that tastes great back here in the Antipodes - this Aligoté is for you!

2009 Domaine Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté, Burgundy France ($32 per bottle)

Tasting Notes: aromas of nectarine and lemon pith, almost pinot gris-like with exotic spices. This is followed by a mouthfilling palate with stony, earthy characters and a waxy but nervy, lively finish.

Would Go Well With : barramundi with ginger and shallots, whole-roasted chicken with mixed bean salad and potato mash, gruyere cheese with quince paste.

Tell Your Guests: Domaine Goisot also makes a white wine from a grape called 'Fié Gris' - which is an ancient cousin of sauvignon blanc. It is one of the very few wineries who still use this variety.

Cellaring Potential: 3-5 years.

To buy: To purchase a bottle or two visit International Fine Wines of Europe. Click here to buy.

Grüner Veltliner - A White with Cellaring Potential

2011-08-15T03:12:00.000-07:00

2009 Domäne Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner ($25 per bottle)

A lot of people ask me to recommend white wine varieties they can put in their cellar. The majority of cellars are stocked with reds, but people want to balance that out with white wines that will also improve with age.

The reality is that it's more challenging to keep most white wines and they don't often benefit from cellaring. So why do some white varieties improve with age when others don't? The variety planted, the rootstock and the clone itself are all important factors as they all have differing relative concentrations of the compounds - acids, alcohol and polyphenols - that influence ageing. Riesling, semillon and chardonnay are examples of white wines that can age gracefully if they are carefully cellared.

A quirky white that ages really well is Austria’s native white varietal, Grüner Veltliner, which is versatile with food and compelling in its own right. The grape has been around for centuries but was considered ‘jug’ wine until the 1980s. It's exact origin is unknown, but one of its parent grape varieties is Traminer.

On a trip to Austria last year for the 'Vie Vinum' festival I tried more stunning Grüner Veltliners than I thought possible and the 2009 vintage has produced some cracking wines. Compared to the more classic wines produced in 2010, I find the 2009's are drinking very well now.

‘Vie Vinum’ is a Springtime wine extravaganza held in Austria’s capital every two years at Vienna’s stunning Hofburg Imperial Palace. With around 400 local producers on show, the scene is set for some pretty serious tasting and a chance to compare Austrian wine regions against each other.

When drunk young, Grüner Veltliner shares similar characteristics to Riesling: racy acidity, floral citrus notes, often some minerality and a dry, crisp finish.

Once it ages however it becomes more like chardonnay in terms of palate weight and texture, although the aromatics of Grüner Veltliner and Chardonnay are vastly different. Older chardonnay has more neutral characters whereas the old Grüners I tried still had the trademark citrus characteristics (lime with grapefruit) alongside more peppery, spicy and exotic notes. This opens the door for a greater scope of food matches and in Austria it was matched with some brilliant home made breads, cured meats and of course Wiener Schnitzel that requires a bolder style of wine.

And the great thing about Grüner Veltliner is it's capable of lasting decades if stored correctly, so if you can get your hands on a bottle or two it'll send you on a wine journey that's well worth the effort. With both Australia and New Zealand wine makers getting in on the Grüner act, access to these wines will hopefully become easier, and if Aussie cult vineyard Lark Hill’s latest release, the 2011 Grüner Veltliner is anything to go by we should be seeing some pretty serious local examples in the future.

In the meantime a young, vibrant wine to get your hands on now is the 2009 Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner from Austria which is a solid single vineyard wine which is a great value, entry-level example of the variety.  It's good now but will benefit from time in the bottle. This is an old estate but has been reinvigorated of late, thanks to the dynamic duo of Horvath and Frischengruber. I rate them because even though they're one of the larger producers, they make consistent wines that are true to their variety.

2009 Domäne Wachau Terrassen  Federspiel Grüner Veltliner

Tasting Notes:  mountain herbs and white pepper on the nose, whilst on the palate there is classic freshly squeezed lime juice and grapefruit notes with some more exotic stone fruits as the wine warms up in the glass.  Dry finish with chalky, wet stone notes, medium acidity and a slight touch of fruit sweetness.

Would go well with:  classic Thai food - show me some spice (red or green curry). Also, vongole or the classic Schietzel is always a winner with some sweet potato mash. Washed rind cheese such as Pont l'Eveque from Normandy is also a great option.

Tell your guests:  The Wachau is a world Heritage site in recognition of its architectural and agricultural history.

Cellaring potential:  5-25 years - try it now and then track how it changes over time.

To buy:  The 2009 Wachau Terrassen  Federspiel Grüner Veltliner is available for $25 per bottle. Click here if you want to buy a bottle or two.

p.s The oldest Grüner I've tasted is a 38 year old 1973 Schloss Gobelsburg ‘Renner’ Grüner Veltliner. If you can keep one in your cellar for that long without drinking it you're doing well!

How to pick a good Shiraz - the perfect Winter Drop

2011-08-05T17:12:00.000-07:00

Shiraz is a dark-skinned variety that can produce strong, full-bodied and intense wine. James Busby brought it to Australia in the early 1800’s but the origins of Shiraz (known as Syrah in France) are debatable, with one theory suggesting it was brought back from the city of Shiraz in Ancient Persia by a French Knight and planted near his home in the Rhône Valley, France. This - while a great story - is unfortunately not true with DNA tests revealing the Syrah grape variety is actually native to France. This testing also concluded that Syrah is the offspring of two obscure varietals which are native to Southeastern France – ‘Mondeuse Blanche’ and ‘Dureza’.

So what is Shiraz like to drink?

Colour

Anywhere from medium red through rich purple/red to black in the bigger styles.

Nose

Primary fruit characters from cooler climate styles to warmer region examples include: herbs, mint, spice, pepper, menthol, eucalypt, raspberry, dark cherry, mulberry, blackberry, plum, blackcurrant, black olives, aniseed, licorice, stewed plum, chocolate, jammy and raisin.

As Shiraz ages its primary aromas and flavours begin to evolve into more complex and savoury secondary/developed characters. These include: chocolate, earthy, barnyard, cowyard, cigar-box, coffee, gamey, meaty, salami and leather, mushroom.

Palate

The palate should have plenty of flavour, usually with a lovely sweetness in the mid-palate due to ripe fruit and alcohol. Young wines will often give a firm tannin impression of big, but soft, chewy, mouth-puckering tannins. In older wines the tannins will be finer giving a grainy sensation. Higher alcohol levels, usually in warmer climate examples, can give a hot warming feeling as the wine is swallowed.

Oak characters are usually present, but should not dominate. French oak is the subtler of the two main oak types adding notes of cedar and spice, and fine-grained tannin which integrate well as the wine ages. American oak loads the wine with coconut and vanilla flavours and it can easily dominate and does not integrate as well as the wine ages. Sometimes a combination of the two oaks can be used.

How to pick a good Shiraz

If you like a young, full-bodied Shiraz it can be drunk within a few years but because it generally has higher tannins and higher alcohol content is can also go the cellaring distance. For the much older vintages, make sure the level is good at the top of the neck, and that there is no wine leaking through the cork. Enquire about it's origin and how long it has been there. If you have the chance to taste before you buy, look for the defining fruit characters mentioned above that Shiraz should offer, and also the structure is very important. Try to avoid 'baked' characters, this can sometimes mean the wine has been stored badly, or it may be past its peak.

For me, great Shiraz producing regions in Australia include the iconic Barossa Valley, Eden Valley, Heathcote in Victoria and I'm a big fan of the Canberra District which produce the more subtle syles.

2007 Radford Shiraz, Eden Valley South Australia - $38 per bottle

For my palate The 2007 Radford Shiraz from Eden Valley is a perfect example of what a Shiraz should be. This is the work of Ben and Gill Radford, who are making small parcels of excellent high-altitude wines that have great depth of character but finesse and restraint. Ben has been head winemaker at the cult winery Rockford in the Barossa Valley since 2007, so Gill has taken charge of the Radford labels. If your a white wine fan the Radford's also have the oldest Riesling vines in the Eden Valley (planted in 1930). Their bio-dynamically grown Riesling is some of the best I've seen.

Tasting notes: Medium bodied, blackberries, ripe plums and spice (white pepper) on the palate. Firm but approachable tannins, very intense, moorish style that makes you crave that second glass.

Would Go Well With : Lamb chops and coriander pesto, hard cheeses (cheddar such as Quicks), veal schnitzel

Tell Your Guests: The Barossa Valley is home to some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world, with the oldest block being at Langmeil which was planted in 1843.

Cellaring Potential: 5-12 years so your choice to drink now or cellar for later. The following vintage (2008) is also a good drop,

To buy: The 2007 Radford Shiraz from Eden Valley it is available direct from the vineyard website for $38 per bottle. Click here if you want to buy.

Sauvignon Blanc with a twist

2011-07-21T06:30:00.000-07:00

2008 The Pawn 'Jeu de Fin' Reserve Release Sauvignon Blanc, Adelaide Hills

Is Sauvignon Blanc on the way out, or have newer experimental styles wowed us enough for people to dig it again? If you think it's becoming yesterday's wine it may surprise you to know it's still the single most popular white varietal in our restaurant. In June this year I visited Sancerre and spent some time in the beautiful village of Chavignol. At Gerard Boulay in Sancerre I tried some 2001 Sauvignon from his ' Clos de Beaujeu' vineyard, where they continue to produce Sauvignon Blanc with a twist. Boulay himself compares the terroir of this vineyard to that of the best sites in Chablis, where Chardonnay is king and limestone soils thrive. He is a man who uses natural ferments and no added sulphur. There was more opulence and more texture in this wine. Instead of the pungent greener notes that are often associated with Sauvignon Blanc (grassy and gooseberry notes) there was hints of orange blossom, with fresh fig and stewed apple. The acidity didn't tear your mouth apart and the finish was balanced and dry with solid length.

A local Australian producer also making a slightly left of centre Sauvignon Blanc style is The Pawn with their Adelaide Hills project. This is the work of the three Amigos: Tom Keelan, Rebecca Wilson and David Blows. The 2008 reserve release is partially barrel fermented and has improved from an extra year in the bottle. I like it because it's slightly richer and still has great energy with high tropical notes and a savoury, long finish. Overall this is a more complete package because it matches to a greater spectrum of flavours, and can also be more versatile across a whole meal.

Tasting notes: Tropical aromas (guava) and a zesty citric finish (fresh lime) with some more savoury elements at the end (broad beans and white flowers).

Would Go Well With : Seafood BBQ, fish and chips, mixed leaf salad with goats cheese.

Tell Your Guests: Sauvignon Blanc is the mother grape and Cabernet Franc the father grape of Cabernet Sauvignon (DNA tests in 1997 established this fact - the result of a spontaneous field crossing)

Cellaring Potential: Normally Sauvignon Blanc is a 'drink young' style (1-3 years) but this wine could cellar for 5 years.

Other options: If you like Sauvignon Blanc why not try other varieties that display similar characters in their youth such as Pinot Grigio, or try an Arneis white varietal from north west Italy.

To buy: The 2008 The Pawn 'Jeu de Fin' Reserve Release Sauvignon Blanc is available direct from the wineries website for $24 per bottle. Click here if you want to buy.

An English Eatery and a (bottle of) Riesling

2011-07-18T17:25:00.000-07:00

'The Fat Duck' Restaurant Berkshire, England

1993 Zilliken 'Saarburger Rausch' Auslese Riesling from the Saar, Germany.

From the outside you could easily walk past and not know it was there. On the inside it's packed with presence, but in the most unobtrusive way. It's 'The Fat Duck Restaurant' in Berkshire, England which is one of only four restaurants in the UK to have 3 Michelin Stars and was named best restaurant in the world in 2005. Don't ask me how I got a reservation, but let's just say I was lucky.

I loved the theatre, the drama, the precision and the WOW factor that Chef Heston Blumenthal brings to the table. Each server had their own unique personality and made us feel comfortable. Was there a favourite dish or a wine match that stood out? For me it was the 'Roast Foie Gras with Barberry, Braised Kombu and Crab Biscuit' and it's interesting to see how they wine match there. With this it was a 1990 St.Urbans Hof 'Ockfener Bockstein' Auslese Riesling from Mosel, Germany. Honeysuckle notes with citrus, stone fruit and a bold palate, but not overtly sweet. More please!

You can't get this wine in Australia but something similar is the 1993 Zilliken 'Saarburger Rausch' Auslese Riesling from the Saar in Germany. In 2011 it's definitely hit its straps and has deep layers of rich nectarine fruits with white flowers and lanolin notes while the fresh acidity keeps everything in balance. It would also work extremely well with soft cheeses. I've given the details below.

Oh, and back at The Fat Duck Restaurant the dessert we had was called 'Like a Kid in Sweet Shop' which nicely sums up the whole experience of dining at one of the world's best.

1993 Zilliken 'Saarburger Rausch' Auslese Riesling from the Saar in Germany

Tasting Notes - Deep layers of rich nectarine fruits with white flowers and lanolin notes. Fresh acidity keeps everything in balance

Would go well with - Foie Gras, Soft cheeses such as Fromage D'affinois, Pork Belly

Cellaring Potential - Riesling is a truly noble variety that ages gracefully whilst exhibiting variety definition, so when produced in a good year, it can last the distance - 20 to 30 years if cellared correctly

To buy - The price of the Reserve Release 1993 from Zilliken is about $115. Click here to buy

Grower Producer Champagnes

2011-07-06T18:30:00.000-07:00

NV Agrapart 'Blanc de Blancs' Grand Cru Champagne from Avize, France

In 2011 it looks as though it will be an early vintage in the Champagne region, in fact across most of Europe...about 3-4 weeks ahead of normal vintage time. Yields are also down on 2009 but quality is high.

On June 5th I visited Pascal Agrapart in the village of Avize, France and tried some seriously impressive champagnes. The vineyards are managed bio-dynamically and fruit is picked on ripeness - in the burgundian way. If you haven't had the chance to try Grower Producer champagnes – small production, small parcels of fruit and a hands-on approach - then it's time to begin. There’s just an extra ‘wow-factor’ from good Grower Producer Champagnes, wines that speak of their origin.. And at an attractive price-point.

Tried several champagnes matched with Comte cheese, local lentils and charcuterie. If you like a dry, crisp champagne, the stand-out for me was the NV Agrapart 'Terroirs' Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru for it's freshness, its spiny and stoney characters and its sourdough notes.

Shipments into Australia have just arrived, and this champagne is ready to drink now or cellar for 3-5 years. The price per bottle is around $85.

To buy NV Agrapart 'terroirs' blanc de blancs Grand Cru online, click here.