That’s how it used to be when I first started rigging. I would rig when everyone was gone from the boathouse. I’d pull out the tools and start working. And for about 10 minutes everything would be great . . . until—whap . . . I would need help with something.

“Now what rigging numbers should I use for the spread?”

“How long should the oars be?”

“This is stuck, what should I do?”

And I would go from rigging alone to searching for help, by phone, in person, from a book . . . H-E-L-P.

Rigging alone is certainly safer than swimming alone, but it  can give you a headache.

Okay, to get to the point . . . this site, MaxRigging, is all about you not being alone when you rig. Through reports, or posts, or the book, or numbers, or videos I want to help you solve the problems you might have—making your rigging and rowing more productive and fun. Almost like I am with you.

But to be really helpful, I need to know what you need help with.

• What problems are you facing with your rigging or rowing?
• What are your challenges?
• Is there a resource, such as a report on something like Euro-riggers, that would help?

So let me know. Just share a comment below, and tell me what you need.

Let’s see if we can help you from rigging alone.

Post from: Max Rigging

I read in my copy of  “Nuts and Bolts Guide to Rigging” that one should never use a 15 passenger van to carry a boat.  Our club has been using a 15 passenger van for some years to carry a 4+ about 75 miles to a regatta, and there have been no issues.  What’s the problem, overhang?

The overhang Dick mentions is certainly an issue (Overhang is the length an object extends past the end of a vehicle). Some states only allow 3 feet of overhang, and although it has been a while since I’ve seen (or measured) the overhang of a four on a 15p van, I would bet that it would be upwards of 10 feet or more.

However, the real critical issue here is roll-over. Fifteen passenger vans are notorious for their roll over problems, contributing to many accidents and deaths. Many institutes no longer use the vans, and those that do usually limit them to only 9 passengers (to keep the center of gravity lower).

Locally I know that if I were to transport shells on a 15p van that I would void the insurance.

My suggestion would be to check with the local authorities to see what they say about your suggestion, and then check with your insurance company.

I would also suggest that you do a quick Google search on these terms, “roll over 15 passenger van.” I think you will find the results quite sobering.

That’s my advice to Dick. What do you think?

Post from: Max Rigging

Why? Because spread (in sweep) and span (in sculling) is one of the main critical determinants (my way of saying really wicked important) of the leverage of your rigger. And that determines how heavy or light you are geared. Getting your gearing just right is part art and part science. And one of the science parts is measuring your distances correctly so you know what you have.

I reviewed Active Tools Self-Centering Span Gauge over the course of this year. When I first received it, it was not the first tool I reached for to measure the spread . . . I kept grabbing my handy-dandy tape measure. That was more out of habit than out of choice. So I found I had to make myself use the gauge.

After about a week of using it, it became my measuring device of choice. I liked the way it felt, the aluminum is nice, and it gave very accurate measurements. I also found it to be a lot more durable than I thought. One real testimony to it was that the other coaches around also wanted to use it.

The gauge is very easy to handle, and uses a neat system that automatically compensates for distances, so the days of measuring the width of the boat, and dividing by two and then taking that measurement out to the center of the pin are gone. Now all you have to do is place the gauge on the boat, slide the lever under it to the gunwale, pull out the measurement stick, and your done. I timed myself, and could measure an entire eight in about 45 seconds. It would take me about 3 minutes to do one with a tape measure.

Here is a short video of me using it.

Bottom Line

If you find yourself measuring the spread or span of a boat frequently, this might be a good tool for you. It is tough, accurate, and works simply and well. Although some might find the cost prohibitive the Active Tool Self-Centered Span Gauge is a top quality tool that does a great job.

Pros

• simple to use
• storage container included
• easy to read
• quickly gives accurate measurements

Cons

• bulky compared to a tape measure
• significantly more expensive than a tape measure
• just in metric

Details

• Cost: $170 US
• For more information: http://www.active-tools.com/rowing_tools/self_centering_span_gauge.aspx

Post from: Max Rigging

1. Most people (rowers, coxswains, coaches) will work intensely hard to go fast
2. Speed (the art and science of going fast) is always a work in progress
3. There will be a price to pay for going, and trying to stay, F-A-S-T
4. Going F-A-S-T can be fun, really fun, but you have to work at the fun part. If you don’t do this one well, #3 becomes a huge factor

These may sound somewhat discouraging (not meant to be). However, as I sit here waiting to race my first heat at the NCAA Championships, those four themes keep coming to mind.

Number 4, working at the fun part, is probably the most difficult.

One trick I’ve learned to help find the fun is to row slow.

What I mean by that is to ever-so-often go out in a boat and row for pleasure. Take a spin, look for wildlife, throw a fishing line over the side (makes no difference at all if the only thing you catch is an old raincoat-which I’ve done), really check out that sunrise/set, play a trick on a sculler.

I’ve written about it, but friend Chris Partridge has written extensively and dedicated a whole site to this. Heck, viewing his site just might help you with the fun part.

There is an entire slow movement developing these days (Slow eating. Slow driving. Yes, even slow sex). Why are people interested? It seems the slow is helping some be fast.

Hmmm . . .

Post from: Max Rigging

He uses a spool (yellow round object in photo) that he picked up at Home Depot, made it to fit the rack support on the trailer, and then just rolls up the straps when they are not being used. When they are needed, he just unrolls them, and removes the spool for traveling.

Very handy and inexpensive.

Gotta love those engineers . . .

Post from: Max Rigging

photo by oddsock

It’s almost impossible to connect to the world right now and not hear, read, or see something about the H1N1 virus (aka Swine Flu). It is everywhere, right? And it is coming to get you, right? So, this must be the time to panic . . . right?

No. No. And Heck No. It is not time to P-A-N-I-C.

• People usually panic when it seems like a good way to show they care, “Oh, you lost your CoxBox? Oh course I love you . . . I will panic with you until it shows up.”
• Or they usually panic when no other option appears, “The boathouse is surrounded by horrible Zombie-Coaches and Talking-Ergometers. There IS no escape. Panic.”
• Or, panic happens when folks just let fear get the best of them, stealing their brains and their common sense.

We are a pretty smart bunch, us rowers. This is the time to be reasonable and prudent—not crazy. Frothing at the mouth and cowering in the corner until those talking-ergs get you does nothing good. It is time to do something positive. Yes, there are schools closing, and people getting sick, and economies being disrupted—but did you know that since January 1, 2009 almost 13,000 people have died, in the US, from flu? Not THIS Flu, but from other flus.

That grim statistic leads me to the answer of the question I started with, “Can you Swine Flu-Proof your rowing?”

Simply put, “Nope, you can’t.” Now you can reduce the chance you are going to get the flu, and you can reduce the chance of you sharing the flu if you’ve got it, but you cannot keep the flu, or any other disease transmitted by contact 100% out of your rowing.

Bummer? Kinda. Can you live/row with it . . .certainly. Especially if you do the positive thing I was talking about . . . start your own TIRP (transmittable illness reduction program). [A lame name, no less, but I could not think of anything better.]

A while back I wrote about the power of bleach, to help make you go fast. That post was all about reducing the transmission of infections. Two interesting things came out of that post.

First, several notes arrived saying it seemed really hard and time consuming to do. So thanks for the post, but the writers would not be doing it.

Second, another writer did not want to get other rowers upset by disinfecting the handles on the ergs.

Hmmm . . . too busy and too worried about what others might say/think. Neither seem to be a good reason not to take a few seconds (less than 15) and a few squirts to kill off a million or so nasty germs. With all H1N1 stuff now going on those squirts and seconds hopefully will seem like a wise investment to those writers (and to you). And I hope they like the idea of  washing hands also. That one step has been shown to dramatically reduce the chance of spreading infections.

So, you cannot Flu-proof, but you can take steps to make a difference. Bleach, hand soap, and not going to the boathouse when you are sick. Simple steps that won’t stop, but can reduce, a growing-illness from becoming a rowing-illness.

Is there something that you are doing to help keep infections to a minimum? If so, let us know, post a comment below.

Post from: Max Rigging

Post from: Max Rigging

Hi. I’m a novice oarsman. I’ve been rowing for about a semester and a half now, and until a few days ago I’ve been rowing portside. However, due to new arrangements, I just started rowing starboard in the bow. In the bow, I realized that I’ve been catching quite a few crabs due to the boat not being set whenever I row.
Is it usual for the bow to feel that way? It seemed like I had to push up the oar handle everytime I bring myself up to the catch. And this caused me a lot of trouble. Any suggestions?

Ahh . . . life in the bow seat. It can be a paradise, or a paradox.

What I mean by this is that often it seems that technical issues, especially one’s related to balance seem to magnify themselves in the bow seat. Whether this actually happens or not does not matter as much as it appears that they do. Especially to the person sitting in that seat!

There may actually be technical rowing issues here (especially if you have been rowing only a few months). However, from a mechanical/rigging perspective (which this site is about) I suggest you do some, if not all, of the following steps:

1. Relate to your coach the issue you just described
2. Have the rigging of your rigger checked, specifically the height
3. Realize that balance is a major component of rowing, and something that rowers, and boats filled with rowers, often struggle with this (hmm . . . patience)

I hope these help some, and that you get to the finish line first.

Post from: Max Rigging

Our club recently purchased a used 2005 Resolute Freedom 8+. We are currently getting everything prepared to go back on the water, but we don’t have the proper wrenches. I know that Resolutes require metric wrenches, but I don’t know what sizes! Help?

I sent this question along to our resident Resolute expert Casey Baker. Here is Casey’s reply:

Mike asked me to help answer your question so get out your pencil!

1. Rigger bolts are 10mm
2. Top nuts on the backstays are 13mm
3. Bottom pin nuts are 17mm

Other sizes you will find are 8mm to hold the shoes.

If you are working on the rudder those little nuts are 7mm, but I use long nose pliers since I lost my 7mm.

Lastly, on the backstays where the short tube is clamped on the long tube, you may have the allen head style screws. If so, they are 5mm.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Casey! And if any of you are rowing Resolutes, do you have other suggestions for our reader? If so, let us know.

Post from: Max Rigging

Post from: Max Rigging