Meandering Leeloo

The Plan (Days 123-127) - The Sahara

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Fri, 03 Oct 2008 11:00:00 +0000

This isn’t my first trip to the Sahara. It’s pretty big and if you’ve been to North Africa you will probably have come across it and I’ve been to Tunisia. It is entirely possible to visit Tunisia without leaving the coast, many people do, but in order to inject a little bit of culture into what was everyone’s first trip to the Dark Continent my family signed up for a bus tour.

At this point I should probably explain that when my family goes abroad it was rarely just my mum, dad, brother, sister and I. Oh no, we’re talking aunts, uncles, cousins, the whole shebang. In Tunisia there were 12 of us, when we go skiing next year there will be 13 (Now-husband being the only addition but it could have been more. We didn’t go with them last year but my sister’s fiancé did. He won’t be joining us this year due to his incompatibility with skiing. There was also talk of more cousins and a few more girlfriends but they decided against it!).

Returning to the bus tour, my memories are fairly favourable. We saw the spot in the Sahara where they filmed Star Wars (although at the time I’d never seen the film so it meant nothing to me!), we visited a traditional house, we rode on a camel and I got to read a lot of my book on the coach. I also remember that the grown ups were very annoyed because the guy who sold us the tour failed to explain there would be about 8 hours on the coach and that therefore the tour was probably not particularly suitable for five children aged 6-13 (I was 13).

This has not really much to do with anything other than to say that although I have seen the Sahara before, I don’t think I appreciated it at all. I don’t remember it looking anything like it does in films (including Star Wars) and I don’t even remember there being that much sand.

So to improve upon these memories I am going to attempt to visit the Sahara from the Moroccan side. This is easier said than done as roads and transport is intermittent at best. I may have to hire a guide or go on an organised tour from Marrakech. Not really what I want but as long as I get to see some really big sand dunes and ride a camel I’ll cope.
The Sahara proper doesn’t really begin until you think you been travelling past nothing but sand for several hours. Merzuga is my ideal destination because from here you can travel on a camel for a couple of hours and watch the sunrise or sunset over nothing but dunes. Picture this, standing with your back to the sunset looking over the unimaginable immensity of the Sahara desert. Before you are 9 million square kilometres of sand. The size of it is simply inconceivable, mind-blowing.

It won’t be a relaxing journey to say the least. A sweaty car followed by the most uncomfortable mode of transport man has yet come across, the camel. Then the night spent in a tent in the desert will be freezing and I do not do well in the cold. Not to mention the sand which will find its way into every part of me and all my worldly goods. But I can honestly say I think it will be worth it.

I think my romantic notions of the Sahara might have something to do with this story.

To be Continued...
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

The Plan (Days 120-123) - The High Atlas Mountains

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Fri, 03 Oct 2008 10:48:00 +0000

Morocco is a land of sea, sand and snow. Other than the occasional glimpse of the coast and a lot of dust I probably will not have seen very much of this on my journey through the country so far. With luck my next destination, a side trip from Marrakech, will change this.

The High Atlas Mountains form a dramatic backdrop to the cityscape of Marrakech. In my imagination it is much the same as Mount Fuji presiding over Tokyo, only visible on clear days from tall buildings but always there in the collective consciousness of the city. I could be wrong of course, they may always be visible and domineering or never much thought of, it is another thing I look forward to finding out one day.

A hotel 60km from Marrakech caught my eye some time ago and my subsequent investigations have pretty much left me open mouthed at the prospect of visiting it one day. The hotel is the Kasbah Du Toubkal and if you don’t understand what I mean from my inadequate description just check out the pictures on the website. I could spend days looking at those views.

At this striking converted Kasbah the emphasis is on time-honoured Berber hospitality rather than the usual hotel services. Rooms range from luxury suites to standard hotel rooms to more traditional Berber dorm-style rooms. The traditional rooms sleep three comfortably but if there are more in your party you can borrow a sleeping bag and sleep out on the roof terrace. Even if there was a bed free I’d be tempted to sleep outside anyway just to wake up to the view of those stunning snow-caped mountains.

So there you have it, I’ve ticked off snow from my Morocco experience list, and in style too! Next stop, the Sahara for a serious amount of sand.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting link is about the hotel.

The Plan (Days 114-120) - Marrakech

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 11:38:00 +0000

I thought that Marrakech would be much easier to write about than the other places I have visited recently on my imaginary journey. In fact I wrote:

“However much I might love to visit non-tourist places, from a writing perspective it’s a relief to be in Marrakech. Meknes, Rabat and Casablanca have been difficult and my output slow to say the least!”

But Marrakech was not easy to write about. That vibrant North African city that exists in all our imaginations began to sound monotonous and not unlike the other Moroccan cities I had already described. Herein lies the problem with writing about places I have never visited, I cannot capture the spirit of a place without actually being there, no matter how alive and well it is in my imagination. If I was a writer of fiction I would find a way to bridge the gap between imagination and bringing something to life on the page. But I am not so instead I present to you my laboured attempt to breathe life into Marrakech.

As with other towns in Morocco the central tourist attraction in Marrakech is the medina. The central square, called Djemaa el Fna, is at the heart of the medina. During the day it’s a good place for a mint tea in a rooftop café but come the evening it transforms into and exotic place with of snake charmers, musicians and various other Moroccan entertainments. It is a place that, with a good book and a constant supply of tea, I could easily spend a whole day.

For the tourist in me, Marrakech has many attractions. The most ancient sight I definitely plan to visit is the spectacular Koutoubia Mosque, the largest in Marrakech, which looks over the Djemma el Fna square in the medina. Some interesting legends surround the four copper globes that crown the tower. It is believed they were once pure gold. The Mosque dates back to the 12th century so it has had many years to acquire a history and stories and I’m a sucker for a good legend.

The Saadian tombs date from the late 16th century and hold the remains of around 60 of the Saadi dynasty. Outside the tombs are gardens and the graves of servants and attendants. I’ve never taken much interest in tombs, graveyards and memorials before. Partly because they give me the creeps and partly due to many many school trips to churches and churchyards as a child making them seem dull places. But I’m willing to put aside these preconceptions for any new experience on this trip.

More modern still is the 19th century place and gardens, Bahia Palace. The Palace reflects the taste of the grand vizier that built it, Si Moussa, a slave that rose to wealth and power. The palace, which has a certain vulgarity about it to modern eyes, was intended to display the Moroccan Islamic style of the time.

The Majorelle Gardens are beautiful throwbacks from the French colonial period. Designed in 1924, the buildings and decorations around the gardens are a deep cobalt blue which contrasts perfectly with the calmness of nature. The gardens also contain the Islamic Art Museum, which has an extensive collection of jewellery, ceramics, textiles and carpets, and 15 species of bird found only in that part of Africa. It is the sort of place you can go to escape the demanding and hectic atmosphere of the city, with its calming fountains, and network of intertwining paths and water features. This trip back to the Colonial period completes my (deficient) journey through Marrakech’s history.

And there we have Marrakech, a place alive with history, culture and day to day Moroccan life.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting link describes 36 hours in Marrakech.
This interesting link is a guide to Marrakech.
This interesting link describes Marrakech as a travel wonder.
This interesting link is about the Majorelle Gardens.
This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Marrakech.

Trapped in Morocco

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Mon, 08 Sep 2008 12:05:00 +0000

I'll be honest, the reason I haven't published for a while is that I'm stuck. Ok, there are a few more posts to publish about Morocco but then what?

I had always planned for my next port of call be Algeria and then south to west Africa. But it occurred to me that transport links might not be the best across the Sahara desert, so I checked it out. Turns out that even if there was a regular bus service it would have to stop at the border because it's completely closed. You can get into Algeria but it would involve going back to Spain and crossing from there. And that doesn't solve the problem of there being a great big desert in the way. I've pretty much ruled this out now and I'm planning a short trip to eastern Algeria on my way back north.

I could continue south in Morocco, following the route of the Dakar rally to Senegal through the disputed region of Western Sahara. Unfortunately there is no public transport so I would have to rely completely on hitching. It would also involve crossing more west African borders than I would like. My sense of adventure is well and truly alive but so is my common sense. There is nothing about this plan that sounds easy or safe. The distances involved huge and there's no guarantee I would be able to get to my destination. It doesn't excite me, it scares me and I think that's where I draw my line.

Now-husband suggested I get a ferry to the Canaries then on to somewhere further south. A trip via the Canaries would suit me very well but there doesn't seem to be a ferry from Morocco, let alone anywhere else in west Africa.

So what do I do? Should I give in and look up flights from Morocco to Gabon?

Bolton Abbey

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 13:56:00 +0000

The Yorkshire countryside in June can only be described using various adjectives of the colour green. The lush green of the well managed pasture, the dappled green of the sunlight as it hit the woodland floor after passing though the leaves of young beech trees. The dark, moody green of the canopy, contrasting against the bright blue of the sky. The greens are dulled by summer rain and brightened by sunshine in the predictably changeable weather.

My walk around Bolton Abbey had all these greens and many more. It was a pleasant, gentle walk along the dark ribbon of water that runs through the sea of green. Every corner seemed to hold a surprise. The lucky log, studded with coins, the masks made by school children and hung on the trees, an unusual mother duck and her grown up ducklings. Stepping stones, rare-breed cows, the aqueduct.

I clearly wasn’t the first to discover these surprises. Bolton Abbey is a popular tourist attraction with families, fishermen and walkers alike. Strategic car parks and wide wheelchair friendly paths are excellent for those that struggle to access most of the British countryside, but for the rest of us it takes away from the sense of adventure slightly.

But I cannot begrudge them this beautiful piece of rural Britain. Really I am glad so many can share it.

The Plan (Days 112-114) - Casablanca

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Thu, 14 Aug 2008 10:51:00 +0000

Rick Steves describes Casablanca as a ‘great movie, dull city’. This amused me but it doesn’t bode well for my visit to the city. I must admit I’ve never seen the film; it’s something I’ll have to do before I get there so I can form some preconceptions and then have them dashed.
Casablanca is the largest city in Morocco and with the quickest tempo. It is the only city in Morocco that I’ve read has an eventful nightlife, including clubs and an American travellers’ hangout in Rick’s café. Other than that, the sights are the usual Moroccan mix of Mosques and souks. The appeal of Casablanca is almost entirely in its almost mythical name.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting link is an article about Casablanca's attractions.
This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Casablanca.

Cardiff

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 11:36:00 +0000

When I was first writing about Wales for The Plan I completely dismissed Cardiff as somewhere to visit because I just couldn’t think of a reason to go there. I later retracted that and declared that I would go to Cardiff and experience what it has to offer. This post will present the results of my subsequent investigations into Cardiff.

Cardiff offers the usual parade of museums and galleries, castles and parks. I shall be interested to see how these hold up against its more popular competitors in the English and Scottish capitals. The National Museum and Gallery has the advantage of being free (like all national museums in England and Wales), and also offers an intriguing range of exhibits. Roath Park may sound like any other park but in my experience city parks always have an interesting history, and I look forward to discovering it. Cardiff Castle also has a long history waiting to be uncovered by a (not-so) intrepid tourist.

Cardiff styles itself very much as a modern city. The extensive redevelopment of the Cardiff Bay area is testament to this. The area turns up on TV fairly frequently so I know it looks shiny and modern, if a little soulless. Various amusements and attractions can be found in the area including galleries and art spaces. Cardiff’s nightlife is also centred here.

The Millennium Stadium offers regular tours. I’ve never been a tour person though, so I’d rather experience the magnitude of one of the biggest and best stadiums in the UK by attending an event than by being shown around an empty shell. Nothing beats real atmosphere.
NOTE: This article unintentionally belittles the Millennium Stadium by calling it ‘Wales’s largest sporting venue’. Now I’m no expert on Wales but I’m guessing that to be the largest in Wales you generally don’t have to be very big!

I inadvertently dismissed the Museum of Welsh Life off hand in my previous post. I really shouldn’t have done because it sounds amazing. It is situated outside Cardiff in 100 acres of parkland and entry is free. The best thing is the exhibits are reconstructions of actual Welsh buildings from history. I seriously love things like this, where you can just immerse yourself in history at your own pace. They are always accompanied by people demonstrating crafts and skills from times gone by and maybe some dress-up fun as well.

Having just exposed myself as a history geek (to add to travel, wildlife and Shakespeare), it’s time for me to pack my bags for Cardiff! If only…

This interesting link lists things to do in Cardiff.
This interesting link is about the Museum of Welsh Life.

Blogging Croatia

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 07:57:00 +0000

I'm in Croatia, how exciting! I was planning to use this as a test for blogging on the road but to be honest not that much has really happened. But here's some observations:

1. Croatians are really friendly, even when you have no linguistic skills in their language at all
2. Croatia is beautiful.
3. Croatia has no beaches at all. At least none north of Zadar. We travelled up most of the coast and we're now about as north as you can get.

One amusing incident happened as we landed. My Now-Husband is an inexperienced flyer and it shows sometimes. It was the type of landing that when the plane stops and your lives are no longer in danger all the passengers applauded the captain. Just as we'd bumped along onto the ground and while we were still speeding along faster than I have ever travelled on the ground before my husband turns to me and says, 'I love landings'.

The Plan (Days 110-112) - Rabat

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 14:01:00 +0000

Another city not often on tourist itineraries is Morocco’s current capital, Rabat. A visit to the most modern city in Morocco will undoubtedly be welcome after the craziness of the Fes medina. And because the city lacks any sights of note and as such also lacks the persistent following that tourists draw. The attraction that sounds most intriguing is the Chullah, an abandoned city. While I think I could very easily pass the time here, there is nothing that will hold my interest for long.

Rabat is worth a visit because it’s where the ville nouveau really does meet the medina head on. Nowhere else in Morocco will you see such European modernity the crumbling ruins of a Middle Ages city side by side. However, for me the most interesting thing will be to compare this city to the rest of Morocco. I want to know whether it still retains the soul and culture, so often lost in modern capitals.

To be Continued...
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Rabat.

The Plan (Days 108-110) - Meknes

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 09:58:00 +0000

Meknes is usually missed out by tourists, the medina is not as exciting as the one in nearby Fes and there are few hotels or restaurants of note. It’s a compact city, and it can easily be done as a day trip from one of its more charismatic neighbours. I’m visiting Meknes because it was an Imperial city for a brief period (1672-1727 under Sultan Moucay Ismail). During this golden age it developed into a grand Moorish city and it is now a UNESCO site.

This article suggests five things that you must do with your day in Meknes. Starting the day with a stroll around the Ville Nouveau and perhaps a pastry in a small café you then stop off at a Hammam. When you are clean it is time to head to the older part of town and visit the Dar Jamai Museum of Moroccan Art in Place Hedim. Next is a brief look round the Medina (easy after the madness of Fes), where most of the sites are centred. Finally head to Heri Es-Souani for some history in relaxing surroundings.

Despite warnings that Meknes is dull after dark I would like to stay at least one night because there is enough to do to fill an entire day and because I would like to take a day trip to Volubilis, some notable Roman ruins.

So far this all sounds fine but not exciting; it could be any generic Moroccan city. I need to know what makes Meknes stand out from the crowd. It certainly doesn’t have the same tourist appeal that Fes and Marrakech have. Nor does is it in close proximity to the Sahara or the Atlas Mountains. Its grand history does make it an aesthetically pleasing city, and its compact size makes it more manageable. The lack of tourists also makes it an appealing prospect. I will be interested to find out whether these ‘off the beaten track’ cities in Morocco are worth making time for.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting link will take you to Lonely Planet Meknes.

The Plan (Days 106-108) - Fes

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Mon, 07 Jul 2008 11:43:00 +0000

There are some countries that I’ve set myself targets for, visiting every state in the US, for example. There are also some things that are must sees because they are very particular to that region. The Duero River and the Algarve are good examples of that in Portugal. For Morocco I have a couple of completely clichéd must sees, the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara. Nothing wrong with that, except I then continued my research on Morocco and came up with the following target. I decided to visit the seven Imperial cities. That’s right, the monarchy has moved so often that Morocco has seven Imperial cities and I’m going to see them all. Some sources recommend that you spend at least four weeks in Morocco to fully experience all the country has to offer. On the other hand there are 8-day tours that take in all seven cities. I would like to spend somewhere between the two. Although even if I have just two days in each city (one travelling, one sightseeing) that’s still two weeks. Add Tangier, the mountains and the desert onto that and we’re talking three weeks. Cape Town by Christmas has slipped as a target, at this rate I’ll be in Morocco when Santa calls!

Aside from the amount of time it will take, the other problem with this is that none of my sources agree on what the seven cities are or even if there are seven! I have decided upon are Fes, Casablanca, Marrakech, Meknes, Agadir/Essaouria, Rabat and Volubilis. I’m heading to Fes first on a train which departs once a day and after a five hour journey I’ll far away from the day trippers and my comfort zone. Fes is that old travel witting cliché of the completely modern city next to old. And it is commonly described as a city of energy.

I would like to stay in a traditional riad or guesthouse wherever possible in Morocco. Being cooked breakfast in a beautifully ornate Moroccan house sounds amazing. Unfortunately the riads in my price range are probably more likely to be of the run-down, crumbling type. I might be limited with food too. I got excited when I spotted a Moroccan, vegetarian restaurant in Fes. It turned out to be ‘vegetarian meals are available on request’ which just isn’t the same. Oh well, there’s always fruit, olives and nougat in the Medina.

The Medina is what I’m most excited about in Fes. There’s a traveller myth that if you enter without a guide you will never leave. Whether on not that’s true the consensus does seem to be that you will get lost in the 9000+ streets and alleyways. The endless lanes are so cramped that no motorised vehicles can get into the Medina, meaning pedestrians only have to give way to the donkeys. I don’t think I will be taking a guide since they tend to steer tourists towards the carpet sellers and there’s no way I’m dragging a Moroccan magic carpet all round Africa. I’d rather take my chances and spend all day getting lost. Hopefully, I will come across the famous dye pits in the centre at some point and I’m sure I will wander by some of the many squares and mosques.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting links gives advice on travel in three of Morocco's Imperial Cities.
This interesting link lists Fes as a Travel Wonder.
This interesting link list the Fes Medina for being car-free.
This interesting link is an article about one man's first time in Morocco.
This interesting link lists the Fes Medina as a good shopping experience.
This interesting link is a photo article on Fes.
This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Fes.

Memories and Notes From Spain

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Mon, 30 Jun 2008 13:38:00 +0000

In a previous post I talked about my sister's memories of Spain (along with my own). I recently had the following update from her on the subject. It made me laugh so I thought it would be worth sharing:

'I remembered the other day when I was watching something on tv that you asked me ages ago about my memories of Spain, and I forgot the biggest one!! When I went to Santander one day we went to a harbour somewhere and we went to this restaurant and we decided we wanted to order fish as we were in a harbour, so we asked the waiter what he suggested, and what he pointed to on the menu translated to squid in special sauce with chips. So we ordered it. When it came it was squid and chips, covered in what looked like tar. It was in fact squid ink!! Apparently it’s a delicacy!!'

On a more positive Spanish note, I was recently reminded of a fantastic website on living in Spain. Notes From Spain is a brilliantly interesting insight into Spanish culture and travel through the eyes of a British expat.

The Plan - Tangier (Days 104-106)

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 12:30:00 +0000

I dealt with all the technicalities, in a previous post, now on to the interesting stuff. After all, I will be in Morocco! Tangier is a port town with an international flavour. Despite this, I suspect arriving here will be the biggest culture shock of the trip so far by a long way. The town is a popular day trip for tourists from the Costa del Sol and that brings with it certain problems. Wherever there are guaranteed large groups of gullible tourists there are the hustlers and the hawkers to prey on them. Unfortunately this has given Tangier a bad name.

Nonetheless, I think Tangier will be an excellent place to stop for a couple of days while I adjust to being woken by the early morning call to prayer and the dust of the nearby Sahara. The current King of Morocco has shown a lot of interest in refurbishing the country’s fourth largest city and the investment shows. I’d like to have some time to see it for myself, even if actual sights are a bit thin on the ground compared to Europe.

Tangier’s sights are spread over a few main districts. The Ville Nouvelle is where you will find most of the museums and art galleries. No specific one really catches my eye but I think the district will be worth a meander through just to see how the new part of town compliments or degrades the old parts. The Medina is the old town, every town in North Africa will have one. This area also has a number of museums. It is also home to the Grand Mosque and various other places of spiritual significance. Next to the Medina is the Kasbah, a traditional high-walled fortress and palace. It sits on the highest point of the city, dominating the skyline. The final spot to visit is the Grand Socco. It used to be where traders, snake charmers and such came to sell their trade and entertain. Renovation has all but removed the Moroccans and the square has become the main meeting point for travellers.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting link is an article about visiting Tangier.
This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Tangier.

TravBuddy Map

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:05:00 +0000

I just created the TravBuddy map that I posted on the bottom of this blog. I was quite pleased because I've done one before and I didn't think it was as much as 7%. This one also distinguishes between US states. On previous maps it looks as though I've been to Alaska!

With the obvious exception of The Vatican I've spent at least one night in all the countries/states I've counted. I can't abide by people saying they've been to a country just because they've spent time at the airport. Singapore airport may or may not be a fair representation of the country, I couldn't tell you just because I've had a couple of stopovers there. And would I include Tanzania because the plane I was in touched down there for a few minutes. I was asleep the entire time.

On the other hand China takes up a good proportion of my map but I've never spent 24 hours there in one stretch. In total it's just about a day and a half, but again most of it was spent asleep. We did wonder the streets of Shanghai and eat some interesting food so does it count?

NOTE: Recently found this. A detailed list everywhere. They state:

'According to our members, the world is made up of 673 countries, territories, autonomous regions, enclaves, geographically separated island groups, and major states and provinces. To visit all 673 would be to go everywhere.'

I suspect by the standards of MTP I haven't seen anywhere near 7% of the world and I'd be inclined to agree.

NOTE: Using the MTP list I have visited 22 countries, territories, autonomous regions, enclaves, geographically separated island groups, and major states and provinces. By my calculation that is 3% of the world.

The Plan - Heading to Tangier (Day 104)

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 08:19:00 +0000

It’s finally time to leave the relative safety of Europe behind and hop on a ferry for the short journey to Africa. I cannot express how excited I am just planning a trip around Africa. Things are about to get a whole lot more complicated and therefore interesting. No more Euros or Pounds and for the first time I felt the need to look up the visa requirements. I was slightly disappointed to learn that no visa is required for the majority of nationalities for stays of less than three months in Morocco. Never mind, one less embassy to visit and a bit more space left in my passport.

The journey from Gibraltar to Tangier across the Straits takes about 80 minutes. It’s not the shortest route but it is the most convenient for me. However, the ferries are currently running infrequently so I might be best advised to book a ticket as soon as I arrive on the rock. I don’t like having a specific time limit to my stays but ‘once a week’ has been mentioned on some websites in relation to ferries and I don’t want to find myself stuck. Alternatively I could return to Spain for a third time and catch the ferry from the shortest crossing point at Algeciras.

Upon my arrival I will find most of the hotels and guesthouses in Tangier in the Ville Nouvelle neighbourhood. Some cheap accommodation can also be found in the Medina if you fancy being near the centre of the action.

Another practicality I’m becoming concerned about once again is food. A quick search does not reveal any vegetarian restaurants in Tangier (not really a surprise). A traditional Moroccan meal starts with cooked vegetables, a bowl of olives and flatbread. That sounds good to me but the next course is tagine or stew followed by another meaty course. I’ll eat the accompanying couscous and maybe even the salad but I’ll pass on the meat. Desert is a sweet mint tea. It’s a shame because I really would like to try some traditional food, just without the meat! There are a number of international flavoured restaurants which may be worth a try. With any luck the touristy restaurants will be more vege-friendly.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

There's more to come on Tangier. Until then this interesting link will take you to Lonely Planet Morocco.
This interesting link and this interesting link are about Moroccan food.

Quest for The Unusual

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Mon, 23 Jun 2008 11:19:00 +0000

There’s a well worn path to just about everywhere on the tourist track these days. Travellers like to complain that they can’t experience the ‘real’ culture of a country whilst eroding the path still further themselves. I’m not the type to dwell on might have been so you will not find any complaints here; I’m more than happy to experience the here and now. Having said that I’m interested in finding out about some unusual experiences and places of interest.

I’ve come to realise that a lot of my posts follow the ‘must sees’ in obvious places. While there’s some merit in doing that, it feels a little ordinary. The posts I get most excited about writing are those where I decide to take a spontaneous side-trip to somewhere you might not expect. Or when I travel from city to city via somewhere a little bit out of the way.

What I’m missing is the curious places to visit within the cities themselves. Every city has its own odd museum or a seemingly run-of-the-mill monument with an interesting back story. The problem is hearing about them. There are two blogs in particular that I find useful for providing ideas, Viator and RatesToGo. Viator is a company that runs often unusual tours. Even if following a tour group isn’t for you the blog still provides some helpful information and intriguing suggestions. RatesToGo recently published this post about visiting prisons which caught my attention. (Alright, Alcatraz isn’t exactly of the beaten track, but all the other suggestions are places I wouldn’t have thought of). There are many more top lists on the site with some equally bizarre tips.

I can’t help but wonder what I’ve missed on my travels so far. But I suppose that’s something you can think about forever. You can never ‘do’ somewhere completely. There will always be that unassuming statue in the park that you never stopped to look at but is in fact of the first man to import bananas to Europe. It was carved using vast quantities of unpeeled bananas and every year a basket of the nutritious yellow fruit is laid at his feet in tribute which the poorest people of the city then share out between them. But you will never know that.

The Plan Taking Stock Part 5 - Iberia

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 13:31:00 +0000

Andorra - 5 Days
Andorra Total - 5 Days
Barcelona - 8 Days
La Rioja - 3 Days
Madrid - 3 Days
Rio Duero - 2 Days
Porto - 2 Days
Lisbon - 5 Days
The Algarve - 2 Days
Portugal Total - 9 Days
Seville - 4 Days
Spain Total - 20 Days
Gibraltar - 5 Days
Gibraltar Total - 5 Days
Running Total - 105 Days
Country Count - 12

To be Continued...
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

The Plan - Gibraltar (Days 99-104)

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 09:44:00 +0000

I’m fascinated by how different cultures grow up close together in small geographical areas. I have an obsession with islands and varying cultures within individual countries. It’s probably linked to the interest I have in island biogeography. This curiosity is at its most apparent in tiny countries like Luxembourg, Andorra and my next destination, Gibraltar.

It’s fair to say that I read a lot of travel articles and blog posts, both for my own pleasure and for research for this blog. The question is, why can I not find a single mention of Gibraltar anywhere? There’s been a serious oversight by someone somewhere. I know that traditionally Gibraltar’s tourists are day trippers from the Costa del Sol but why should this be so? Off the top of my head I can think of several reasons to visit but for some unknown reason no one is writing about it. In the course of my research I had to do something I haven’t done for the duration of this blog so far – I got my old, battered ‘Lonely Planet Europe’ down from the shelf and read the (2 page) Gibraltar section.

The first problem I had to overcome was simply getting there. Gibraltar doesn’t have any trains and the buses don’t go over the border. Luckily Gibraltar is so small it can easily be crossed on foot and a bus will drop you at La Linea, only 5 minutes walk from the border (although, if you add an over overloaded backpack into the equation we could be talking hours).

For me Gibraltar will be a little piece of home on a sunny day. Just what I need before I embark upon my African adventure. The centre of town may be nothing special to most but for me after three months on the road and countless more ahead, ‘Marks and Spencer’ and red post boxes will be the most exciting thing in the world. Better than that even will be using Pounds, a little piece of normality between Euros and Dirham.

I’m not just here for the reassurances of home, there’s far more to Gibraltar than the town. The Upper Rock Nature Reserve covers most of the Rock of Gibraltar and this is where I really want to head. A cable car will take you to the top but if I can hike it I probably will. The Straits of Gibraltar are the shortest crossing point over the Mediterranean between northern Europe to Africa. As a result millions of migratory birds pass through the reserve in early Spring and with luck at the same time I will be in Autumn. I’ll be honest, I love birds. Although I wouldn’t describe myself as an avid ‘birder’. Despite this I’ll probably be boring now-husband to death while trying to get the most out of my copy of ‘The Pocket Guide to European Birds’ before it becomes almost completely useless.

I’m also looking forward to watching the Barbary Macaques. They are the only European primates (excluding Homo sapiens of course) and the population of approximately 230 on the rock is highly pampered. They receive regular veterinary checkups from the Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society. Previously they have also come under the care of the British army. The reason for this care is the myth that when the Macaques leave Gibraltar it will no longer be ruled by the British. I love a good myth almost as much as I love wildlife watching.

The last important natural wonder in Gibraltar in St Michaels Cav e. An impressive cavern that is now used as an auditorium. The cave is so awe-inspiringly deep that legend has it that it connects Gibraltar to Morocco 15 miles away across the Straits of Gibraltar via subterranean corridors.

I think you’ll agree with me that there’s enough in Gibraltar to keep someone like me amused for a good few days. And it has the best of both worlds for me, somewhere interesting to explore but with a taste of home. I can buy a salad from M&S, climb the rock, marvel at the various wonders, eat my tasty feta and sun dried tomato pasta with the other tourists, then return to town for a hearty pub dinner.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

No one's writing about Gibraltar so I only have one interesting link!
This interesting link is to Lonely Planet Gibraltar.

The Plan - Seville (Days 95-99)

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Fri, 13 Jun 2008 11:50:00 +0000

Now I’ve got my fix of beach relaxation on the Algarve I’m completely avoiding the Costa del Sol and various other magnets for the British around the Spanish coast. There’s just one more place I want to visit in Spain and that’s Seville. I’m not really sure what attracts me to Seville, I know even less about the city than I did about Madrid. It might be that the Moorish allure of southern Spain will be a completely different experience aesthetically than the northern Spanish towns that I’ve visited. I imagine Barcelona to be a slightly more hedonistic, hot-blooded version of the cities in the south of France and the small Spanish towns to have a familiar provincial feel. Now I’ve reached southern Spain I imagine that the influence of Africa can be seen in the history, the structures and the people. The other thing that could be drawing me specifically to Seville is that my neighbour mentioned she went to Seville and it was ‘amazing’.

So I’ve arrived in Seville and found a cheap hostel to dump my stuff in after the long bus ride from Faro. What do I do next? The answer is the same for almost all cities, go for a walk. In Seville I will find the exotic and ancient juxtaposed with modern confidence. The grandiose Seville Cathedral is just round the corner from the Alcázar, an almost perfectly Moorish Palace. Once again I’m seduced by a description of a walking tour of the city. The picture I have of Seville is one of a small city bathed in a warm, late summer glow. The city is most pleasant in the early evening, the day has cooled and people are emerging from their siestas. I meander down narrow, cobbled streets past colourful buildings that reflect the richness of Africa. I turn a corner and young Sevillians are departing contemporary buildings.

Seville has another major attraction, it’s something I’ve been avoiding so far in Spain. Not bull fighting, but dancing. Specifically flamenco. I’m not good at dancing, I’m a bit clumsy, not very graceful and prone to cramp in my foot at unfortunate moments. Having said that, I really enjoyed salsa lessons in Leeds and I’m never one to shy away from (most) new experiences, even though I know I will be making a fool of myself. Alternatively I could stick to the flamenco museum. I was confused as to how you could put a dynamic thing like dance into a museum but a quick look at the website tells me that a decent part of the space is dedicated to teaching and performance. Even if I don’t have the opportunity to join in, I’d love to watch some.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting link is about Seville's flamenco nightlife.
This interesting link and this interesting link are both about Seville at Easter.
This interesting link will take you to Lonely Planet Seville.

A Tick for ‘The Plan’ List

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Thu, 12 Jun 2008 12:24:00 +0000

If there was a formal list of things I’d planned to do in The Plan it would have, ‘Eat a real French meal’ on it. I can now tick that one off and be proud. Well almost, it wasn’t a proper vegetarian meal. I was hungry there were no vegetarian dishes on the menu so I had the fish. Yes I’m a vegetarian traitor and I’m not proud but it was probably the best tasting meal I’ve ever eaten. It was so good that now-husband (who is not vegetarian) wished he could speak French so he could express to the chef just how wonderful the meal was.

In my defence, after the previously described adventure we arrived at the hotel pretty late so we didn’t have time to view the menu beforehand. And this was the worst researched trip I’ve ever embarked upon. And I was hungry.

Anyway, if you’re not vegetarian I have a couple of suggestions. First, get off the tourist trail. The second night we ate at a restaurant on a campsite because we had seen it advertised and it had a pleasant lake view. The food there was good, but not sing its praises to everyone you meet good (although the Australian couple we met there really thought it was that good). Second, don’t feel like you have to go for the snails or frogs-legs to feel like you’ve had an authentic French meal. The French cook all food to perfection in their own special way. My starter was a leek quiche. It doesn’t sound like much but I can tell you honestly, I’ve never had a better starter. The pastry was perfect, not too moist, not too crumbly. It looked like a huge slice but the filling was so light and fluffy that it didn’t fill you up.

If you re vegetarian I have this advise. Look at the menu before you go into the restaurant, research possible vegetarian restaurants in the area and if all else fails fill up on crunchy, yet fluffy baguettes and smelly cheese at lunch time. This will mean you only need a starter plus desert plus several glasses of vin-rouge at dinner. It will probably cause some raised eyebrows from the restaurant staff but at least you’ll still have your morals.

For more vegetarian advice see this post.

Boulogne vs. Calais - Where to visit on a daytrip accross the Channel

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Tue, 10 Jun 2008 12:00:00 +0000

Boulogne is where British school children go on a school trip to practice café French and generally run riot around the town. I never went myself but I knew schools and classes that did. The main reason they went to Boulogne was because of its proximity to Calais. I’d always imagined Boulogne to be a pretty, little, quaint, French town. A sunnier, more French version of Whitby I suppose. Alas, the dangers of preconceptions. The cathedral was suitably grand I suppose and it was a pleasant enough place. But it could never be described as pretty or quaint.

Calais surprised me as much a Boulogne disappointed me. My previous experience of Calais is of faceless, bland hypermarkets and an ugly port. I hadn’t expected a drive into the city centre to reveal a clean, wide central boulevard and a handsome Hotel de Ville.

Calais is no more the quintessential French town than Boulogne, despite the abundance of patisseries. And the increasing number of cafés and bars as you near the seafront are obviously there to cater for the tourist trade. The only thing that really puts Calais ahead of Boulogne is that it exceeded my expectations whereas Boulogne did not live up to them.

Why I like Train Travel

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Tue, 10 Jun 2008 10:26:00 +0000

I recently read this highly dugg post on ecogeek and it got me thinking. I can't think of a better way to travel. I think what surprised me most was that this was the authors first train experience. Are trains really that unpopular in the US? I know the distances are usually much greater in the US but I think most Europeans would consider it their main option for both long distance travel and short commutes.

One of the main plus point of trains that jumps to mind is that you always know where you are when you stop. It’s signposted there in big, bold letters usually. There’s no desperately trying to communicate to other passengers or the driver whose grasp of English may be pretty much non-existent that you need to know where you are.

They are usually a fairly quick mode of transport compared to the long-distance coach for example. And there’s no check-in and security checks like there is every time you get on an aeroplane. It might seem obvious but not many people think to check whether the train is an option for flights that are less than 2 hours. If you have a ticket you can turn up at the station one minute before your train is due to leave. If you don’t have a ticket it often doesn’t take much longer to purchase one.

Of course trains are not always quick. Catch a local train and you’ll probably start to think that it would have been quicker to walk. The good thing about local trains is that they often offer up some spectacular views, or at the very least a gentle amble through some picturesque countryside.

Probably my main reason for prefering trains is that their effect on the environment is far less than driving, flying and sailing. It's not perfect but if we must travel we must reduced our carbon footprint as much as possible.

There are some things I really don’t like about trains too though. The big one for me is the need to turn the air conditioning up to arctic levels. I’ve made the mistake of getting on a long distance train without a coat on a hot summers day more than once. By the time you step off the train you have frost bite. However, I’ve had the same problem on long distance coaches as well.

The article I mentioned before raves about the leg-room on trains. The author has obviously never been crammed into a commuter train! I will admit that you do tend to get your fair share on longer distance trains though.

You may be able to go anytime but the toilets are never clean or pleasant, certainly no better than aeroplane toilets.

Everything about trains is expensive. The ticket is usually more expensive than the equivalent bus and often also the equivalent flight. The food is expensive and, in my experience, poor quality.

The Plan - The Algarve (Days 93-95)

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 14:53:00 +0000

I’ve spent 8 or so days so far in Portugal but I don’t feel ready to leave. I’m not usually one for European holiday-maker hotspots but I feel in need of a trip to the beach. It seems like a long time since I kicked-back on this trip and it’s not long until I’ll be leaving the relative safety of Europe and stepping out of my comfort zone into darkest Africa (how exciting!!!). I realise of course that both Porto and Lisbon are on the coast (both at the mouth of a different mighty Iberian river), but a city beach just isn’t the relaxing. Anyway, I really should see what all the fuss is about. Just why to millions of Northern Europeans head south in the summer months? To find out the answer I’m heading south to the Algarve.

Train connections to Lisbon are fairly easy but I need to move on to Spain when I’ve finished chilling on the beach and that could be more difficult. It does seem that there are a few coach services operating a route from Faro to Seville so it might take me a while but I will be able to get back to Spain as planned.

The next question is where on the Algarve I should visit. The region stretches along the south coast of Portugal from Europe’s most south-westerly point at Cabo de San Vincente to Vila Real de Santo Antonio in the east. Faro would be the obvious choice with its transport links but after Porto and Lisbon I fancy somewhere a bit more rural. A local train line operates along the coast making it perfect for me, even if it is described as ‘not for those in a hurry’. I can simply jump on the first local train that arrives in Faro station, enjoy the views for a while, and then hop off when I see a station that takes my fancy. (A little more planning might have to go into it than that, I suspect not all stations are near the coast and by the sounds of it some are middle-of-nowhere rural.)

In terms of accommodation I have a choice; I can stay in Faro at a hostel or campsite and have a day trip out of the Moorish town. Or I can take my tent with me and pitch it on a secluded beach. I like the second idea; it’s less rushed yet more of an adventure at the same time. The problem is I haven’t been able to find out what the camping laws are for Portugal. On the other hand, waking up to a view of the Algarve famous golden beaches and the wild, blue Atlantic is a major draw.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting link is a collection of articles about the Algarve.
This interesting link is some trivia about the Algarve.
This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Algarve.

The Plan - Lisbon (Days 88-93)

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Fri, 06 Jun 2008 13:41:00 +0000

The whole of Portugal conjures images of Medieval streets in the Southern European sunshine. Nowhere inspires this in my imagination more than the meandering streets of Lisbon. Everyone who spends time there sings the praises of Lisbon yet it remains relatively tourist-free (compared to London for example). It doesn’t have the art that attracts people to Barcelona and the streets aren’t as perfectly preserved as Bruges but the art that is there is worth a look and the streets may seem less like the set of a Disney movie and more alive. This article mentions Lisbon very briefly but still manages to spur the imagination. I think that is the effect Lisbon can have on the traveller.

I suspect another good word to describe Lisbon is steep. It is a city built on hills by the sea meaning there is an incredible view round every corner. The city is so steep that a Gothic lift is needed to connect Baixa (the old town) to Bairro Alta. I have trouble imagining it.

Like in Madrid, a suggested walking tour of the traditional district of Alfama hints at a piece of history on every street and around every corner. I am convinced that this cannot be entirely true of either city. Yet, nowhere in my readings have I come across a single mention of a modern building in Lisbon. No ugly tower blocks or sprawling supermarkets at all? Obviously they are making the city sound far too good to be true and vast neighbourhoods will be entirely new builds but that’s not what people remember.

Of course you can’t wander aimlessly forever, at some point you have to learn something about the place you are visiting. You may be able to see the history around you but to get the most out of a visit at some point you’re going to have to put it into context. That’s when you visit Belem, Lisbon’s neighbourhood of museums. Several museums reside here, covering topics from folk art to the sea. You will also find the impressive Jeronimos monastery here; built in 1499 this is a UNESCO site.

When I’ve finished exploring Lisbon’s neighbourhoods I can take a day trip to the pretty Queluz Palace. The palace became the permanent home to the Portuguese Royal family when the 1755 earthquake that destroyed most of Lisbon flattened their palace in the city. It is a pretty, pink, mostly one-storey building that is often compared to Versailles. I will have visited Versailles myself not so long ago on this trip (though it may seem like months), so I will be well placed to comment on whether it is worthy of this comparison.

It’s been a while since I enjoyed a good local pastry but it looks like I might be trying Portugal’s own Pasteis de nata in Lisbon. Flaky pastry with a creamy custard filling. So simple but you can’t deny that it sounds tasty. Unfortunately I might be struggling for non-sweet, vegetarian food. Portugal is not known for its fine dining generally but you can expect fresh sea-food and succulent pork. Not really what I was hoping to hear. If anyone knows of a Portuguese, vegetarian dish please let me know.

To be Continued... (Next)
Visit my Maps.
Go Back to the Beginning.

This interesting link is an article about Queluz Palace.
This interesting link is a story of someones experiences in Lisbon.
This interesting link is a collection of articles on Lisbon.
This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Lisbon.

A New Experience – Driving on the Right

noreply@blogger.com (Leeloo) — Thu, 05 Jun 2008 08:27:00 +0000

Driving abroad is always a new experience, the road signs are different, and so are the speed limits and the drivers! I’ve driven abroad before, in Australia. The speed limits were in kilometres, but then so was the speedometer of the hire car. Also different was that I was looking out for kangaroos instead of deer and it was my first automatic. Other than that it wasn’t much different and one crucial thing was the same, Australians drive on the left like us British.

This time I drove my own car to France. Familiar car, unfamiliar road signs, speed limits, drivers’ habits and direction of travel. I have to admit, I was a little worried. What if I started driving round a roundabout in the wrong direction? What if I pulled out to face oncoming traffic?

I need not have worried, I slipped into it instantly. My only problems were not knowing the speed limits and even when I did I couldn’t read the tiny kmph writing on my speedometer (“so 110 kmph is 67 mph?!?”), crazy, impatient, French drivers (“I’m sitting on the wrong side of the car to see round the huge combine!”) and confusing junctions (“do I or do I not have right of way?”).

It was nice to have the freedom of the car but I still think I prefer public transport. Anyway, next time driving on the right won’t be so novel.

I think the point of this post is that new and exciting experiences don't have to be the expected and planned, they can be the seemingly mundane and everyday things that happen to you on the road.