After eight months in Medellin, I will be moving forward (back to the United States).  A few weeks ago, I got a job offer to teach dance technique at a top level gymnastics facility, that is also close to my family.  Considering my love for dance and gymnastics, being near my family again, being near my favorite base jumping places, and actually being able to skydive again; I couldn’t pass it up.

I will never find a place like Medellin.  Its unbelievable beauty and infrastructure just makes it a place that is so easy to call home.  I have thoroughly enjoyed settling down here, and if only I had easier access to my family here, I never would have been pulled away.

With my move in three weeks, there will once again be an opportunity for new contributors to this site.  Some of Dave’s requirements can be found below, but remember that not all of them are mandatory (or may have changed completely).  So, if you are interested, please contact Dave and he can let you know how you can contribute to the site.  He may also have a few things to add about this in the next day or so.

http://medellinliving.com/travel-blog/contributors-wanted/

I’m also looking forward to reflecting on all things Medellin in the weeks I have left.  You can expect posts that may be a little more thoughtful than previous posts.  Enjoy!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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As the days come and go, there are a handful of things in Medellin that you can count on every day.  First, of course, is the weather.  I’m pretty sure that Medellin has a permanent forecast of temperatures in the 70’s F with a chance of rain.

A little more interesting, however, are the sounds.  I have come to love the sounds of the typical day in my neighborhood.  There are the cars and buses that drive by, some of which are ridiculously loud.  There’s often a baby crying, and it seems like there is the sound of a child laughing, whining, yelling, or just playing in each moment of the day.

I love listening to my neighbor whistle all day long with his pet bird accompanying him.  You can rely on having vendors wander by, screaming out the names of the different fruits and vegetables they have for sale.  I still can’t believe how load those guys are.  Even the random ringing of the doorbell from vendors selling anything from CDs to cake.

When the nearby school lets out, you can hear the boys whistling at the girls.  The girls giggle in their own groups, and let out the expected, shrill “Nnnnnoooo!” to the boys and to each other.  (Seriously, I don’t think the women here know how to just respond with a normal “No.”  They always turn it into a shriek.)

I admit that a lot of these sounds can get on my nerves as well, but it’s kind of comforting knowing everyday you will be reminded you are never alone in Medellin.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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I’ve been working out at a small gym near my apartment in Envigado.  Knowing I was dancer, Hermes, one of the personal trainers, invited me to go to a garage party up the hill from Poblado.  The club is at a place called Auditorium Plaza.  It is basically a warehouse that’s set up for huge parties.  This night the club had a 20,000 COP cover and was invite only.

We showed up around 10pm, and we met up with Kelerman, the dance instructor from the gym, and some other friends.  We decided on a bottle of tequila for about 80,000 COP for four of us at the table.  I had never drank much tequila before, but it ended up all right.

The tequila and a sticker from my favorite band.

Soon, I realized that Kelerman had disappeared, but I never got around to asking where he might have gone.  About 15 minutes later, I found out.

Kelerman...the performer!

It turns out that Kelerman was one of the performers for the night.  Once they got on stage, the whole place turned into the most fun dance party I have ever been to.  Most of us were dancers or dance teachers, so our whole group ended up looking like a music video.  We all could just dance well together and pick up on when we were changing rhythms or style.

Kelerman back to normal...dancing the Macarena.

The DJ played a mix of techno, 80’s, and a few new hits.  Most the night was spent with crazy-sexy dancing, tequila shots (sometimes body shots), and a few of us dancing on the tables.

Me and my trainer Hermes. When everyone is a dancer, things can get crazy.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Every frequent traveler knows that cab rides to the airport can be expensive and costs add up fast. For business travelers, especially cheap airport parking is essential. For short trips, parking at the airport is often the most affordable option.

Gatwick Airport is located just outside London and is one of the busiest airports in Europe and indeed the world, with millions of passengers traveling through a year. If you park in the regular airport parking at Gatwick you can pay as much as £13 a day, if you are away for a week those fees add up quickly and easily make cabs a cheaper option. This is where Holiday extras comes in.

Holiday Extras is a UK based company that has been serving the travel community for over 25 years. They arrange travel insurance, airport parking and other travel related services for over 5 million travelers annually.  Holiday Extras offers affordable and convenient Gatwick parking services as well as several premium add-ons.
Holiday Extras makes booking your parking painless and easy to understand with charts displaying various prices based on what parking lot and additional services. Valet parking is offered free of charge, or if you prefer you can park yourself and keep your keys.

For those travelers who want the greatest amount of convenience, Holiday Extras offers a meet and greet service for a small additional cost. With this service your will simply meet your driver at the airport to drop off your keys, while you are away your vehicle will be stored in a secure compound, and when you return you will receive the keys to your vehicle at a prearranged location at the airport. This eliminates the need to travel to the parkade to claim your vehicle, offering most pain-free travel experience.

Being that Gatwick is one of the busiest airports in Europe, there is certainly a lot of competition for parking, and as such Holiday extras offers a price guarantee, if you can find a cheaper price, your parking with Holiday Extras will be free of charge.

Parking with Holiday Extras can be booked either online or on the phone, making Holiday Extras the most convenient option for Gatwick parking.

If you’re traveling out of London via Gatwick Airport than Holiday makes your trip that much easier with their excellent services. They offer a bevy of options to fulfill your needs, whatever they might be. You can rest easy knowing that you are receiving the cheapest service and your car is safe in their secure lots.

______

This was a sponsored post.

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I am a huge fan of tattoos.  If you know me for more than a few days, I am likely show mine off.  I got my first one when I was 18, and since then I’ve been addicted.  Knowing my problem, I decided to get a huge one (think two and a half feet from top to bottom) on my side so I could get tattooed over and over with out ending up with a ton of random designs.  …that piece is still in progress for whenever I’m in the States.

Coming to Colombia, I knew that I would get a tattoo here, just so I could say that I did it.  My first month here, a friend handed off a card to me for a place in Envigado called Sailors and Mermaids.  I checked out the website, and I really loved the art.

From the inside of the studio.

Finally, after months of being here, I felt comfortable enough to go check out the studio.  Plus, the shop is really close to my apartment, and I’m a fan of keeping things local.

I ended up talking to Lucas, who spoke a tiny bit of English, but he definitely saw my vision with the tattoo I wanted.  It was a simple idea, an Andean Condor (Colombia’s national bird) created with a paisley pattern, but explaining it was a bit difficult.  Still, Lucas figured it out right away.

I love this surfboard chilling in the corner.

Being a super busy, yet small studio, he told me to make an appointment as soon as I decided I wanted it done there.  I took a quick look around the place to make sure the correct hygienic and sterilizing procedures were used.  Lucas assured me that every tattoo shop in the city was inspected regularly to keep their license.  I made my appointment and hoped for the best with Lucas creating the right design.

Anything to do with the sea can be found at the shop.

On the day of the appointment, everything went smoothly.  It was interesting to see Lucas having to trace out the image for the carbon to be placed, because at the shop I got to in the United States it’s just run through a machine.  Other than that, everything ran pretty much the same.

Lucas said my skin was amazing to work on, and he really had a great touch.  I would definitely get another one from him…if I do get another one.

Total cost was 100,000 COP.

...and the final result.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Even though El Penon (aka El Penol) is only about an hour outside central Medellin, I didn’t make it there. It’s always good to leave something unseen to make return trips worthwhile. In the meantime, this video did a great job of showing me the views I missed.

El Peñon de Guatape (Spanish for “The Guatape Rock”) wrongly called El Peñol Stone (Spanish La Piedra de El Peñol, is a monolithic formation located at the town and municipality of Guatape 1 km inside the city limits (86 km northeast of Medellin) in Antioquia, Colombia. The stone rises from the bottom of the hydroelectric dam of Peñol-Guatape. This monolith was spotted as a border landmark between country farms and the two cities.

At its highest part, on the rear (southeast side), it has a height of 2,135 m M.S.L. with an average temperature of 18 degrees Celsius. The “Peñon” has 185 m3 of rock mass and it is 385 m long, with an approximate weight of 10,000,000 tons. It has some rock breaks, one of which was used for the construction of the 644 stairs that can be used to go to the top.

The wide Antioquian rock base, called “batólito Antioqueño”, and the “Peñon” were formed 70 million years ago.
The Tahamies Indians, former habitants of this region, worshiped the rock and called it on their language “mojarrá” o “mujará” (rock or stone). This rock is located in the country area called “La Piedra”, just 5 minutes from Guatape Town, and can be reached by an excellent road.

The rock was climbed on July 1954. History tells that it was climbed by a group of friends, at the invitation of a local priest. Luis Villegas, Pedro Nel Ramírez and Ramón Díaz climbed the rock in a five-day endeavour, using sticks that were fixed against the rock’s wall.[2]
On the top of the rock was found a new species of plant, subsequently named “Pitcairma Heterophila” by a German scientist.
On the top of the rock was built a viewing spot, where it is possible to acquire handcraft products, mail cards, and other local goods. It is possible to see the 500 km shore-perimeter dam.
In the 1940s, the Colombian government declared it a “National Monument”

Music: Nine Inch Nails – La mer

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…I’ve been having a bad time with the Internet at my house. The landlord is out of town, and we’re trying to get it fixed. I haven’t forgotten about you, I just don’t have the resources right now. I will get some updates up here as soon as possible! Thanks! Holly Joan

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I guess I’m not getting out enough, becasue this is all I’ve got for the photo of the week.  I think the Venz trip took too much out of me.

Welcome to my office!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Leaving

So, after finding all of the correct offices, getting my stamp out of Colombia and into Venezuela, and having a super relaxing lunch, it was time to finish the process.

The stamp out of Venezuela was easy, but interesting.  To receive a stamp out of Venezuela you must pay 55,000 VBF.  I went to the office, filled out the same paper I had to get the stamp in, and then had to go buy a postage stamp type thing from across the street.  I turned those in with my passport, told them I was going back to Colombia, and that was it.  No wait and very little fuss.  I did get a little comment from the lady at the desk.  She said, “Divertirse en Colombia.”  (Have fun in Colombia.)  In the cutest little snide tone.

JD and I then returned across the border for one last time.  This time we stopped and took a few pictures and acted just a little silly.  We were so glad it was all almost over.

I went into the DAS office for the last time, and asked for a stamp back in.  JD and I decided it would be better for me to not have a translator because we didn’t want to have to get into deep details.  They sure did ask a lot of questions.  the guy at DAS was curious why I would want more time in Colombia.  He wanted to know exactly what I was up to and why I needed so much time.

JD was excited to cross the bridge for the last time. I love the goats underneath.

We finally got home to Medellin Tuesday morning, and all seemed right with the world again.  It was a crazy bus journey, but well worth another two months in Medellin.

This boy was so fascinated by our English.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Yesterday I announced the launch of Travel Blog Success, a new website and community aimed at helping travelers build successful blogs.

Click here to learn more, or sign up.

In 2009, my travel blog success resulted in online earnings of more than $10,000, plus I was offered a blogging trip to Colombia to help promote tourism.  I don’t say these things to brag.  I say them to encourage other travelers to join me in taking advantage of the shifting media landscape.

How It Works

Travel Blog Success is an online course consisting of 12 core lessons, covering important topics such as choosing a domain name, building an engaged audience, search engine optimization, and how to make money online.

Unlike other blogging courses and eBooks, this program addresses issues topics to travel blogging, such as mobile technology, and keeping up with a blog while always on the move in foreign countries.

Travel Blog Success includes its own Blog where additional tips and audio interviews with subject matter experts are posted regularly.  To kick off the interview series, I spoke with Mike, Editor of Vagabondish, about the importance of web design to a travel blog’s success.

To ensure every member has direct access to me, plus a way to ask questions, network with others travel bloggers, and collaborate, there is a lively Forum.  I invited a few experienced travel blogger friends to join us there.

I’m offering an introductory rate for the first 100 members who join.  After that, a price increase is likely because I want to ensure I can continue to offer personal support to everyone who joins.  Membership comes with a 60-day money back guarantee.

If you have any questions, please leave a comment below, or send me a private message (via the contact form). I’ll get back to you promptly.

You can read more, and sign up here.

___________

PS – I’d really appreciate it if you can help me get the word out, either by sharing this post or a link directly to Travel Blog Success (http://travelblogsuccess.com) on your favorite social media site, such as Twitter, Facebook, StumbleUpon, or your blog.

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The border near Cucuta.

After a crazy long bus ride to the border town of Cucuta, and a nice traditional breakfast, of course the next thing my friend JD and I had to do was get on a bus.

JD asked around about what bus we should take to get my visa stamped, and it all seemed easy enough.  We rode the bus for about 15 minutes before actually crossing the border.  As we approached, and I saw the sign, I thought, “Sweet, we’ll get of when they need to check everyone’s passport and I’ll be stamped out of Colombia and into Venezuela.”  WRONG.

We crossed the border and nothing happened.  No one stopped us, no one cared that we just crossed the border with lord knows what in our bags.  We were just in Venezuela.

So we asked some more, and it turned out we had to go to a town over to get any sort of stamps.  So we got off the bus and onto another one to San Antonio.

Once in town we had to find the bridge that went back into Colombia and walk there so I could go to the DAS office and get my stamp out of the country.  They asked my final destination and my occupation, and I was officially out.

We walked back across the bridge and to the office to get my Venezuela stamp.  Here they had me fill out a small form with my passport number and occupation.  I was then issued a stamp for 90 days in Venezuela.

Done with half the adventure, JD and I changed some Colombian Pesos for Venezuelan Bolivars (I got 95,ooo VBF for 35,000 COP), and we  settled down at a small restaurant for lunch and some rum that I had brought from Medellin.

Lunch in Venezuela. The pither is typical, and the juice (whatever it is) is amazing with rum!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Ok, I have no idea why I’m obsessed with pictures from around the Parque Barrio station.  Probably it’s because I spend a lot of time meeting people there.

The church across the street from Parque Barrio

…and for something new, we saw this at the Venezuela border:

The fierce border dog.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Robin, my friend behind The Arepa, has just begun a new weekly radio show at 101.9 FM, a station run by the University de Antioquia.  It airs on Saturday nights at 9 PM (local time).

Here’s how he describes it:

We are Robin and Jeff, two guys from California living in Medellin making an English magazine called The Arepa (www.thearepa.com) and we make a radio show for the University of Antioquia (101.9 FM) called Prime Cuts. It is a show to play music from Medellin and music from around the world.

You can listen to Robin and Jeff’s first show here.

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Eating...Waiting for the bus.

So, I needed to leave the country since my tourist visa was up.  Venezuela was the closest and cheapest option, and that’s where I decided to go.

With my limited Spanish I knew that I would need some major help for this trip.  I recruited my friend JD for the trip, and he was kind enough to leave his store for a day just to make the trip with me.

We met at the Parque Barrio Metro Station at 5:30 on Sunday evening, and then made our way to the North Bus Terminal that is connected to the Caribe Metro Station.

At the bus station we found a company with good buses that was leaving at a time we wanted. JD negotiated the price, and we paid 80,000 COP each for our tickets.  With the bus not leaving until 7:30PM we found a place to eat and relax as we waited for the departure.

Once on the bus, I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to sleep well, but I did bring some rum just in case.  Having the bus only about half full was nice as well.

Sleeping with my teddy bear. He was the most useful thing I brought!

I knew it was going to be an interesting drive when the bus driver started talking.  All I picked up from the driver’s speech was something along the lines of, “Normally, we would show a Jackie Chan movie…but that has so much violence, sex, and drugs…”  After that I was pretty lost, but he sure was animated about what he was saying.

It turned out that the driver was a super religious man and decided to show Fireproof, a Christian movie, instead of the normal movie.  I had not seen it, but heard a lot about the movie, and honestly wasn’t super excited about it.  Good for me that it was easy to not get involved with it, since it was in Spanish.

The bus was completely freezing the entire time, and I was so glad that not only did I bring sweats, but I also had a blanket and a friend to keep warm with.  I really wished that I had warmer socks, though, because my feet were so cold the entire time.

After a few hours talking with JD we both drifted off to sleep.  The bus stopped a few times for dinner time and at the Bucaramanga bus terminal for many passenger to get off and to pick up a few more people.  At one of those stops JD said that he was excited for the sunrise because we would be at a very beautiful place to watch it.

I woke up right at sunrise, and the view was absolutely amazing.  I tried to get JD to watch it with me through the crazy fogged up window, but he was out.  So I watched for a while and drifted back asleep.

Around 10:00AM we arrived in Cucuta.  We went to the tiny restaurant and had a nice, typical breakfast.  All was calm, an we were happy to be off the bus.

Somewhere near(ish) the border. "Sunrise, and your brown eyes..."-Snowed In, Broke City

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Thanks to not being thrilled with my new job, and not willing to sign a contract, I got to renew my visa…again.  This time, however, I had to leave the country to do it.  Being such an epic adventure for a whole four hours in another country, I though I would break it down for you poco a poco.

I just got back from the adventure, so make sure you stayed tuned for the next few days to get all the details.

Here are the essential facts:

Where:

Medellin & Cucucta, Colombia; San Antonio, Venezuela

Costs:

160,000 COP-bus, round trip, Medellin-Cucuta

About 10,000 COP-for buses from Cucuta-San Antonio

55,000 VBF-for stamp to leave Venezuela

40,000 VBF- for lunch (Menu del Dia)

Time:

13 hours- Medellin to Cucuta

30 minutes- Cucuta to San Antonio (Each Way)

2-3 hours- Finding someone who knows where all the places I needed are and walking there.

17 hours- Cucuta to Medellin (I have no idea why such a big difference.)

Needed Items:

Blanket

Warm Clothes

Short-Sleeve Shirt

Cash

Passport

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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2010 Weblog Awards

Medellin Living is one of the 5 finalists for Best Latin American Weblog in the 10th Annual Weblog Awards (aka the 2010 bloggies)!  When I arrived in Medellin this time last year, I was immediately struck by the natural beauty, rich culture, and friendly paisas.  Starting this blog was my way of getting the word out that the city had a lot to offer.

My other travel blog, Go Backpacking, is one of the 5 finalists for Best Travel Weblog as well.

Please head over to 2010.bloggies.com to vote for both this week.  You do not need to vote for any other blogs to submit your ballot.  The deadline for voting is Sunday, January 31st at 10 PM, EST.

Medellin Living became a team effort after I left Colombia last July, and I owe a big thank you to Holly for keeping the content fresh and interesting.

I mean how many expats in Medellin blog about BASE jumping off buildings?!

Vote here:  2010.bloggies.com

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There is always something interesting in Medellin. Here are a few quick pictures from yesterday afternoon that I took after a lunch date in the center.

From the Parque Barrio Station

I just hope they aren't planning on burning those books.

If you sit on those steps in the distance for long enough, someone will talk to you!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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I knew the time was coming when I would finally have to figure out the Colombian pharmacy system.  Obviously, I was only able to bring a certain amount of my medications with me.

I knew I would be able to get what I needed here in Medellin, but I had no clue what the actual process would be like.  So, I talked to a few of my friends and got some great advice.  One thing I wasn’t expecting was that everyone told me to go to the pharmacy in the supermarkets.  I know there are a lot of different ones on the streets.  A few of the chains look pretty reputable to me, but everyone said to not take the chance.

*The following information is fairly personal, but I am happily sharing it for anyone that may find it useful…just a warning for those that don’t want to know about my personal life!*

I, personally, take a birth control pill and an anti-depressant.  It was pretty obvious that I wouldn’t need a prescription for the birth control, but no one knew for sure about the anti-depressant.  I am lucky to be on a pretty ‘old-school’ medication that is even cheap in the United States, so I was pretty sure they would have the medications I needed.

In the end, I grabbed a friend to translate (just in case) and headed to the nearby Consumo.  Since my prescriptions weren’t valid anyway, I just wrote down the information.  At the pharmacy, they didn’t have the exact brand of birth control (Cryselle) but they knew exactly what it was and found me something similar.  They did have the same anti-depressant (Trazadone).  There was never any mention of prescriptions or insurance.

Total costs:

Microgynon (birth control) 21 tablets: 8,374 COP

Trazadone (anti-depressant) 50 tablets: 23,792 COP

From my experiences with these medications the cost for the birth control was super cheap, and the cost for the Trazadone was very similar or more expensive depending on what store in the United States I bought it from.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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For the picture of the week, here’s a quick shot of the lake in the Botanical Gardens.  There are a bunch of ducks and very pretty lily pads that I enjoyed quite a bit.  The gardens are very nice…and free.  If it was in the United States, I would say that it was more like a public park than a botanical garden.  I will write more about the adventure later in the week.

The Pond at the Botanical Gardens

Ducks...and the hair of the most beautiful Colombian girl I have ever seen!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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There is something awesome that comes along with the high beauty standards here in Medellin…cheap salons!  There are hair/nail salons on every other block.  I’ve found that a good nail salon charges about 6,000 COP for either a manicure or pedicure.  Amazing hair cuts here are under 15,000 COP, and a full color, cut, and style will run about 90,000 COP.  I took advantage of the low prices and got some pretty crazy hair done.  Got to love the work.  Plus, many of the salons are full of wonderful people.  The one I go to exclusively hires gay male hair dressers, which I think is fantastic!

My Red Hair and Nails on My Balcony in Envigado

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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For the photo of the week, I wanted just to show your average scene near the center of Medellin.  This was taken right next to Parque Barrio on a slow Tuesday night.  The lights are still up from the holidays, of course.

Near Parque Barrio

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Maybe it’s because I have lived all my life in a small town of one sort or another, but I hate that it is not appropriate for me to go to the store in my pajamas.  Getting dressed is a lot more fun when it is not mandatory.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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When does the second biggest city in Colombia become a ghost town?  It may get quiet on Sundays, but I have never seen anything as distinct as Medellin in the early afternoon on January 1st.

New Years Eve is a party, for sure, with fireworks and tradition.  The next day, it is obvious just how hard everyone partied the night before.  Even some of the major stores like Exito were closed for the holiday.  Pretty interesting, considering most were open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.

If you ever want to walk the streets of Poblado during the day, and see the streets and the parks empty, make it January 1st.  I definitely got the feeling that I could own the city for the day.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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I was lucky enough to spend New Year’s Eve with one of the most amazing families in Medellin.  I met them through a mutual friend.  Even though there are plenty of communication issues between us, they have taken me in as one of the family.

My friend and I met up with the other kids at the Floresta metro station around 8pm and we all walked over to the family store.  There were chairs circled around the front patio, and already the Aguardiente was being passed around.  Having drank a large amount the night before, with the same family, I passed on the guaro and stuck with a few beers.

We spent some quality time with the family and were served a lovely dinner of pork, rice, potatoes, and salad.  There was also a bit of dancing.  As midnight approached, some of the kids wrote down their wishes for the New Year.

At the stroke of midnight, every person kissed each other on the cheek and we all wished one another “Feliz Año!”  The kids then burned their strips of paper, and ran off around the block with their backpacks.  This tradition is meant to bring travels in the upcoming year.  Several families in the neighborhood participated in this tradition, and those of us that stayed at the store cheered on the groups that passed by.

About an hour after midnight, we rode in our friend’s car back to Envigado.  When we got home, the streets were going crazy.  Everyone was partying and cooking in the streets.  You could easily see at least six fires in the street from cooking.  Many of the streets were also blocked off with cars or tied off with ropes, just so families could take over the street for their parties.

Once again, this place totally surprised me when it comes to knowing how to party!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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For the photo of the week, this is a picture from La Catedral (The Cathedral) which used to be a prison built by Pablo Escobar, and is now a monastery.  It is located way up in the hills of Envigado.

La Catedral - Photo courtesy of Hans Peter

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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I don’t know what kept drawing me back to this picture for this week, but I really love it.  It’s in front of a store that ’s dedicated to Christmas decorations, and it is open year round!

Santa at the Christmas Store

These other pictures I’m posting for their artistic value.  Just a few sweet shots around Santa Elena.  Courtesy of Juan Diego Bautista.

Santa Elena

Santa Elena

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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I just want to say a big, fat, Merry Christmas to everyone out there!  Thank you so much for following me in my travels this far.  I’m going to take a quick break for the holidays and my birthday which is on the 31st.  I hope to hear from you all again in 2010!

There is a lot of things in store for me in the New Year, and I’m excited to share them all with you.  Check back on Saturdays, as I will continue the pictures of the week during the break.

Thanks again!

-Holly

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Every Thursday the local brewery in Medellin, 3 Cordilleras, has live music and and overall awesome scene.  The brewery is located just past Premium Plaza.  It has a great handcrafted feel, and of course the beer is great.  It may not satisfy my taste for an amazing stout, but it sure hits the mark for a wonderful home-brew.  They offer three different types of beers from white to dark.  You can enter on Thursday night for 15,000 COP which includes six beer tickets.  I’ve been telling all my friends back in the United States, “Screw dollar beer night!”

The live music is also amazing.  It’s traditional and fun.  I had my doubts when I first saw them gather, but my ideas quickly shifted.  The vocalist is amazing, and the band is completely interactive.  You can have one hell of a good time here!

You can find 3 Cordilleras at many different places in the city, and it’s definitely worth a try.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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I came to Medellin just  a few days before the start of Feria De Las Flores.  The city exploded with flowers everywhere, and there were so many events and displays, it was hard to figure out where to go next.  Christmas time has a different feel entirely.  There is just as many, if not more, things going on, but it’s not quite as organized by the city.  Most things are family oriented, and you’ll even find a different feel in the popular clubs around Parque Lleras.  It all just seems slightly hushed.

As I walked with my friends around Rio Medellin a few days ago,  I found that I prefer the atmosphere that accompanies the holiday season.  I really don’t know how to explain it other than it’s just a different atmosphere.  There is a communal hope in the air as everyone is remembering how far they have come in the last year…and the last 15 years.

This city amazes me a little more every day.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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When I first was invited to my friend Juan Diego’s house, I was expecting the typical Medellin style house.  I knew it was up in Santa Elena, but that didn’t mean much to me.  What I found was one of the most amazing homes I have ever been in.  Like a cross between a ski lodge and a gingerbread house, but with five levels of balconies and terraces.  It feels so much like home.

The front of JD's house in Santa Elana.

The view from one of the many balconies.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Crazy, lights, everywhere.  That’s pretty much the only way to sum up Medellin during the Christmas season.  Here are some pictures from the river (Rio Medellin) that runs near the metro.  Next week will be the lights of Envigado!

Lighted Tree

The Fountain

The River

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Up the hill from Envigado, hidden in a small bend in the road, is the entrance to Mahalo.  A small, unassuming sign marks the driveway.   As you pass through the gate and up the dirt road, to the broken cement blocks in front of a converted house, you wonder, “What exactly am I in for tonight?”

The truth is, you’re in for an experience unlike any other in Medellin.  Mahalo was once just a house, where the owner and his friends would lounge and enjoy the panoramic view of Envigado.  One night, they had the idea to turn it into a bar…not an unusual idea these days.  Now Mahalo is home to a great little climbing wall, a perfectly balanced pool table, and a dirt track for mountain bikes with jumps and drops that are the best that I have ever seen in Antioquia.  This is where extreme sports enthusiasts find themselves, every day.

In addition to the many rooms, the beautiful porch, and awesome young in-house DJ, there is a fireplace and lounge seating, too.  Oh, and don’t forget the climbing room.  That’s right, an entire room lined with climbing walls…including the ceiling, and a padded floor for safety.  With super cheep drinks and even themed rooms to crash in if you find you’ve had a few too many, Mahalo is simply a cool place.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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El Blue is one of the most popular tourist spots in Medellin.  So, after about four months of being here, I finally hit it up.  Granted it wasn’t a normal night.  Instead it was the normal Thursday event where the local radio station brings in a band and gives away free entrance to callers.  On the day I decided to go, my favorite local band Artefacto was playing.

Thanks to my favorite Colombian Rockstar (and perpetual crush) Felipe, I was able to get a couple tickets without the hassle of calling.  My friend and I got there a little early, but not early enough to get a great seat.  We ended up about halfway in the club directly in front of the door.  Which worked out well, because when Felipe strolled in with the rest  of the band about an hour after the show was supposed to start, I was in the perfect position to get the customary hello kiss.  I think then everyone else stopped wondering what a couple of gringos were doing at a local show.

I had a shot of really nice whiskey there, and then worked on quite a few Pilsens.  The two for one special made the 5,000 COP beer a lot easier to stomach.  After the show, El Blue opened it’s doors for a normal night, and the dancing began.  El Blue is a cool little place, but I think I’ll stick to finding new places in some lesser known parts of the city.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Ok…it is, because everything here in Medellin can be delivered.  Sure, there’s the normal pizza and other restaurant type foods that you can find delivered in other places in the world, but here in Medellin the pharmacy, the local corner market, and even McDonald’s delivers.

Yet, somehow the young people all stay beautifully thin.  Probably because, like me, they don’t use this convenience unless necessary.  Like today, when I’m too sick to get out of my pajamas.  Just ring the pharmacy, and they’ll deliver you some antibiotics, pain killers, and even Gatorade.  No doctor’s visit required!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Ok, I’ve been a major slacker…I realize this!  and I apologize.  So, to reward you for your patience, I’m going to be bringing back the photo of the week!  I’ll be posting them on Saturdays, because that works for me.  Enjoy…

The Bathroom from My Favorite After Hours Club

I thought I would start of the return with something…real. This is pretty dark compared to next week’s Christmas theme.  This is the ‘nice’ bathroom at my favorite after hours club.  It’s not so much a club than a converted basement apartment, but it is like no other place Colombia. (I’ll bet, anyway.)  This is a place where people do drugs in the corners and have sex in the closets.  It’s in the dirtiest part of the center.  The walls are black with some artwork painted on them, and it is only lit by candles and black light. I could give out the name, but the place is extremely hard to find anyway, as it doesn’t have a sign or anything like that.

Colombians...Should not pour beer.

Just an FYI.  If you’re at all like me, you might want to pour your own.

Sorry these aren’t the best quality.  I don’t like to carry my camera around unless I have my purse, and these were just too interesting to pass up.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Nothing marks the beginning of the Holiday season better than the incessant crack of fireworks.  If you’re in Medellin from the end of November, through the holiday season, you are bound to get an earful of the loud bangs that sing through the city completely randomly through the night.  I, personally, am totally over it.  I’m not sure what exactly is the fascination with lighting off the exact same bottle rockets that only fly in the air with a small bit of sparkle, and then gives off three loud cracks.  Of course, there is the occasional one that only gives off one tremendous BANG-followed by three or four old men cursing.  For one night, or one weekend, I think it’s great!  For almost two months straight (and right now I’m only two weeks into it) I think it’s just a little too much.  Happy Holidays Medellin…I’m just glad the beautiful lights more than make up for the annoying fireworks!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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It seems like my life in Medellin takes a new turn every time I blink.  After almost three months of (not very intense) job searching I finally have a job that will keep me securely in Medellin for as long as I want to stay.  I had decided after the first month that I didn’t really want to teach English.  I had seen how flaky the students and the institutes can be, and I knew that I could find something that fit me better.

I found a company on one of the job sites I had listed here.  The interview with the company went well, but they didn’t have a position for me right away.  I waited about three weeks before they finally had something for me.  I am now working with an outsourcing company that does appointment setting and customer service for a handful of companies in the United States and Canada.  I really lucked out by getting in with a fairly new company that is growing super fast.  I’ve already gotten a promotion and a raise, with another raise coming before the end of the year.  Pretty lucky for me.  I will be working on getting a visa next month, and I’ll let you guys know how that goes.  I’m glad that I should be done with the DAS office for good!

I’ve also had to move yet again.  I’m still in Envigado.  I’ve lived in three different apartments in two different neighborhoods here, and I’m still completely loving it.  I am pretty convinced this is the best place to live in Medellin.  I am in the part of Envigado called La Magnolia.  It’s super safe.  I’ve walked from my friend’s house completely drunk at 2am and had no reason to be worried about anyone bothering me.  It’s a lively place, that is still quite enough at night to sleep soundly.  It’s a quick bus ride over to El Poblado or to the Metro, and you can get everything within walking distance.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Medellin shoe shop

This is a guest post by Robin, director of The Arepa.

Medellin, home to friendly Paisas, beautiful women, and people with really small feet.

Yes, small, feet.

I have lived here for a year now and have sadly not been able to find a pair of shoes in size 13. Here in Medellin, shoe sizes stop at 12. And it’s not that I haven’t looked either. Over the past 6 months I have visited over 60 shoes stores and am now treading the streets with shoes that have holes in them. I simply can not find a size 13 (or 46 in Euro sizes) because they simply don’t exist here.

Friendly Paisas always have a recommendation of the one place that may have something bigger, but I have visited them all, high and low, and nothing. I even went to the small and scuzzy Diamante plaza which everyone said would have big shoes but they all ended at 12. Well, that is not entirely true, I did find one size 13 but it was a big poofy Nike basketball shoe that had no laces and a big white plastic strap across the top – it was horrendous, and $150.

So, if you are looking for a business that caters to the gringos with big feet in Medellin, man that market would be at your feet; yes, pun intended!

Robin is the director of Medellin’s English magazine called The Arepa. You can check out the magazine at: www.thearepa.com

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“Oh, shit.  The security guard is right there!” said HP.  We were rounding the stairwell from the parking garage to the main building.  I could hear the common Latin music that is played throughout this city.  I stepped in front of my friend, and peeked around the corner.  I looked back at HP and then ran up the next flight of stairs, just hoping that he’d get the cue.  One of my favorite quotes from the late Dwain Weston ran through my head, “Risking it all…for nothing.”

The mission had started at 4:30AM, with my roommate knocking angrily on my bedroom door.  My alarm hadn’t gone off.  I went to the balcony and told HP to give me a few minutes.  Not long after, Mario drove up, blaring Green Day from the radio.  I finished getting everything together, my rig, the camera, and all of the needed accessories for a base jump.  I went down to the car, and we started through the empty streets of Envigado.

We got to our destination about 10 minutes later.  During the drive, we discussed the timeline of the mission.  HP and I entered the property from the far corner and stayed back away from the security building.  Finding a way down the slippery, muddy hill took way more time than I wanted, and keeping HP in the right spots to keep from being seen without being loud was just a headache.

Down the hill, up another hill, up the ladder and into a window on the first floor of the parking garage, and we were in.  We rested for a few moments in a small cement room, and discussed our plan.  We started up the stairs, but soon found a barricade.  We went down a level, and back up using the car ramp.  It may have made us more exposed, but it was better than disturbing anything in the building.

As we got to the main building, we found where the one of the security guards was.  He was on the top level of the parking garage.  He was listing to some soft music.  We ducked back into a corner, and HP explained to me what the security guard was doing.  I made up my mind and just ran passed, betting the chances were slim that the guard would look in that direction at that single moment.

We got up into the main building, and for half a second considered taking the elevator.  I shot down the idea, knowing that once we got to the top I wanted time to relax and set up the perfect jump.  Twenty-four flights of stairs later, we were walking through the open doorway to the roof.

The sun was rising over Medellin.  It was bright enough to illuminate the mist that was building over the city.  We were high in the hills, so visibility was good still good for us.  We had the perfect view of the clouds rolling through the city below.  We took a few moments to take in the view, and call down to the get-away driver.

Mario had been waiting for us down the hill.  I should have told him to drive around until we called him because the police had been called to come check out his idle car.  The police thought he was up to something malicious and didn’t believe him when he said someone was going to jump off a building.  They basically wanted him to prove it.

When we got the call that the police were going to watch, I was hesitant at first, but I finally decided it would be acceptable.  I geared up, got everyone into position, and then climbed up on the edge of the building.  I was so surprised at how solid I felt on the edge.  I was scared I might fall accidentally, but my balance was spot on.

I stared down at the corner of the building, trying to figure out the exact steps I would need to take.  I started counting.

“Three”

Wait, I need to look up, not down, when I hit the edge.  I looked up and found a spot to look at.

“Two”

“One…Cya”

I took two steps and launched myself from the building.  I waited a half a second, and then threw the pilot chute that would open my parachute.  As I waited for the rig to open, I stared at the ground rushing up at me.  I kept everything in position and kept solid.  The parachute opened with a crack, and I immediately turned into my landing pattern.  There wasn’t time to do anything else.

Two quick turns, and I was landing in front of Mario.  The police were a few feet away in the street, amazed.  I landed, waved at the police, and started putting my things away.  One officer came and took a picture of me.  I looked up to see the security guards on the parking level, obviously talking about the jump.

We quickly discussed where to wait for HP, but we looked over and saw him climbing down the ladder.  We piled in the car and went to have a nice 6:30AM breakfast on a beautiful Sunday morning.

Medellin Base

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Robin from The Arepa put together a great video of photos from the past year. If I knew how to edit video, I’d be doing the same!

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In the center of Medellin there is a small theater called Lido that I have come to love.

It has free events every night with live music, dancing, theater, and I believe even movies.  If you want a little culture for absolutely no money, this is the place to do it.  The first and second companies from Ballet Folklorico de Antioquia even dance there sometimes.  Just make you sure show up early for the more popular events or you will not get a seat.

My friend Mario and I went to the second company of Ballet Folklorico performance on a Friday evening.  We arrived over an hour before the show and there was already a line around the corner.  We ended up getting really good seats, and I don’t think I stopped smiling the entire time.

The show started with a humorous skit/dance on love and dating, and ending with a Latin-Afro blend of music and dance.  The entire show was high energy and featured dances from areas all around Colombia.

The show was great, and I always keep Lido Theater in mind for fun things to do any night of the week.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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On a truly average Saturday night, my friends and I wanted a real Colombian experience.  I asked one of my Paisa friends to take us anywhere but Poblado.

We ended up on LA 33 in Laureles.  I had seen the bars and clubs lining this street before and had always wanted to try it out, but hadn’t had the chance.  I was super excited for the night.

We ended up at a small Salsa Bar.  We found one of the few tables still open in the back, and we ordered a media of Rum and a few cokes for the four of us.

A few drinks in, they started asking for girls to come up and dance on the stage.  At least, that’s what my friends told me.  I happily jumped up there, basically forgetting that I don’t dance Salsa at all or speak Spanish.

Luckily, it was more about hip-hop dancing, which I am capable of.  Eventually I realized that it was a contest.  There was one guy from the bar that was dancing with all the girls, in a very suggestive way…to put it gently.

I had a great time. and I ended up winning second place!  My prize was a media of Rum for the table!

If you want to party like a real local.  Check out the area.  There are a ton of different bars with a range of music to make anyone’s night.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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When I came to Medellin, I befriended a few somewhat random people on Facebook.  Mostly skydivers and other extreme sport enthusiasts that were “friend’s of friends.”

One night I saw a status update from a skydiver that read something like, “Still in Medelling…loving it!”  I commented and said that we needed to get a drink soon.  The next day I got a call from Juan.  He told me that he was leaving that evening, but he would love to at least get lunch…”Oh, do you like horses?”

I think my gasp of excitement gave away my answer before I actually said anything, and within the hour I found myself just up the hill from my house in Envigado at one of the most beautiful stables I have ever seen.

I got a quick tour of the property and introduced to some of the horses.  I have been impressed with a lot of the horses here in Medellin, but these ones are of a whole other quality.  They are huge, strong beasts that are light on their feet and trained to fight bulls!

Me meeting one of the horses in Envigado

I was then asked if I was ok to see something “gruesome.”  So off we went to the lower arena to watch the vet work.  It didn’t take long to figure out exactly what was going to happen.  I hung back on the benches, until everyone told me to take some pictures!  So I did and laughed with everyone else as the vet castrated a horse.

Juan with the Medical tray

When that was over, it was finally time to ride.  I watched Juan get his riding lesson, and I was super impressed with the talent of both the rider and the horse.  They are trained to do so many amazing things to get out of the way of the bull as quickly as possible.

Juan convinced the owner to let me ride as well.  I was super excited because I have ridden a lot in Idaho, and I was really confident.  The second I got on, however, I realized I was in way over my head.  I am used to riding Western Style, where horses are trained to respond mostly to bridle input.  The horses here are trained to respond to saddle input, and weight changes.  I had to be really careful about how I balanced on the horse because leaning in any direction is basically a command.  I got brave enough to do a little cantering, but I didn’t last very long.

The View from the Hill

After riding we all went out to lunch, and I finally had my first taste of Bandeja Paisa. So yummy!

So far, that has been my best day ever in Medellin!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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I just got back from the Antioquia Museum (Museo de Antioquia), which is located downtown in front of the Casa de la Cultura Rafael Uribe Uribe (which used to previously be the Gobernación de Antioquia, or the government of Antioquia building). The museum has its basic art staples, but once in a while they bring some great shows, such as Ruperto Ferreira’s botanical illustrations.

The neat thing about Ruperto Ferreira (1845-1912) is that he was the first engineer to graduate in Colombia and was educated in philosophy, literature, science and art. He was also involved in politics and many activities during his time in the Treasury Department and in government railroad projects. Ferreira taught many subjects including botany, zoology, geology, chemistry, engineering and even architecture.

His botanical illustrations, aside from having superb visual and historical quality, show the passing of time on some of the plants – some have little bugs, others have partially eaten leaves. It’s very raw, giving his work much more validity as a documentary of 19th century Colombian illustration, botany and fauna. This exhibit will be open until Feb. 2010, but I really recommend checking out it before if you get the chance.

After walking around the museum my husband and I took a stroll in the Botero Plaza, where you can witness his gorgeous over-sized bronze sculptures. The City of Medellin is currently cleaning and renovating some of the sculptures, so you might come across these peculiar white wood enclosings, each with its own peep hole to see how the workers restore them!

Here’s another typical sight: Human sculptures! This very talented man gives you a small token, a string bracelet, as a thank you for giving him some spare change.

And this lady is just a couple of feet away from the last human sculpture dude.

I hope you get a chance to visit this great part of town!

Cathy

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I first saw Artefacto at Altavoz.  I was impressed by the group, overall.  They are a Medellin band lead by Felipe Carmona, 30 (yes, he’s 30…it has been a topic of discussion and jokes ever since I found out.)  Felipe has been very kind to me with offering insights into the Colombian music scene, and I wanted to share this video for him.

I love this video because you can see the Metro running in the background.  I have been using this song to help me learn Spanish.  Here are the lyrics:

DESESPERO

Fue una noche fría y cruel

Cuando me hiciste perder

En tu risa que sabe a miel

Me deleito y luego se fue

Dime porque haces llover

Siempre que te quiero ver

Dame de ti dame de ti

En tus ojos me perdí

A donde vas

Cuando yo pienso en ti

Donde estas cuando muero por ti.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Screening October 27th at the Lido Theatre, Medellín

La Dany is a new feature documentary from Julie and Jim Giles of Brother & Sister Productions. Shot on the streets in Medellín, Colombia, it documents the life of transvestite street performer, Dany Castaño Quintero, better known as “la Dany.” For over 20 years, “la Dany” has entertained the crowds gathered in Bolívar Park following Sunday evening mass.  A unique talent among the buskers and indigents, Dany struggles to rise above a grueling day-to-day existence to one day realize her star-filled dreams.

-- La Dany Official Movie Website

For a street performer so easily recognizable, I never saw her during my time in Medellin.

Read the full press release.

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I spent this last Friday night at a hip little bar called Atre Vivo.  I was so nicely invited by Felipe.  My friend Mario came along, and we were really excited to check it out.

We got to the bar around 10pm.  There was a 12,000 COP charge to get in the door, and a minimum charge of around 15,000 COP for food or drinks.  One thing I’ve always loved about Medellin bars is that they have you mix your own drinks.  They bring out the liquor in a shot glass, a bottle of the mixer, and a glass with ice.  Perfect for someone like me that prefers things a little more…concentrated.

I believe the band was the house band that plays almost every Friday night, and some Saturdays as well.  They did mostly covers of iconic rock songs.  Things like Rolling Stones, Pat Benatar, U2, The Offspring, and Blur, as well as some popular songs from all around Latin and South America.

The vibe there was extremely similar Woody’s, one of the bars I would frequent in Twin Falls, Idaho.   The walls are all red, and the stage is really nice.  Don’t expect any dancing, but there is plenty of cheering and singing along.

Felipe was nice enough to keep us company between sets, where we got to know each other much better, and began to discuss the music scene here in Colombia, and how to break out into a bigger market.  At the end of the night he was even kind enough to drive me home, which is always appreciated way more than paying for a taxi!

I’m positive Mario and I will go back soon…and I promise to take some pictures for you!  Until then, here is the information for Arte Vivo:

Calle 25 #43G – 25. Barrio Colombia.

4441609

artevivo@une.net.co

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Ok, so this is a bad video, but I love the feeling it gives because it was taken right from the pit.

Mojiganga proved to be a local favorite at the recent Altavoz music festival.  Thousands of young Colombians moshing to the Skacore rhythm definitely verified that.  It’s a band that I could easily get into, but not exactly my favorite.  I would see them live again in a heart beat.  Their myspace is here.

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In my life, very,very few things can hold a candle to beer.  The beer in Medellin is not exceptional; not even the local micro-brew.  The cheap beers however are extremely better than the cheap beers in the United States, like Budweiser or Coors.

Yumm, a Bottle of Pony Malta.

Lately, I’ve found something that could be replacing my beer fetish while I’m in Medellin.  It’s called Pony Malta.  I think it tastes like candied yams.  The first time I gave it a try I wasn’t sure what to think, but now I’m hooked.  It is a malt, so it has some similarities to beer.  It goes well with the occasional cigarette, and if bought in the 1.5 liter bottle it definitely fits my budget better than the beer I would be having every night.

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A small cafe in Near Casa Kiwi (in El Poblado) called Tinto Tintero offers free English discussions every Tuesday night at 8pm.  The topics are very diverse and can be funny, meaningful, or just intriguing.

I have been to three of them since I have been in Medellin, and I find it’s a great way to keep up my English awareness while I’m here.  Also, it’s a great way to meet locals that speak enough English to communicate with me.  It’s been pretty enjoyable to attend.

Last time I attended, I ran into the lead singer of Atrefacto (A band I had just seen play the day before at Altavoz).  He was kind enough to speak to me after the class, and he invited me to see him play at the bar he works at.  Yay, random networking.

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AltaVoz is an annual music festival in Medellin. The festival is three days long and hosts artist from around the world from a variety of different genres. This years show had almost 40 different bands.

Official Altavoz Promotional Graphic

I am still kind of kicking myself for missing the first day of the event. It was a day of Hard Rock and Metal. The second day was dedicated to Rap/HipHop and Reggae, which I gladly passed up. The third day I finally made it out with my friend Mario, and we had an amazing time. The day was filled with Ska, Electronic, and Alternative Rock. Some of the bands that really stood out to me were Mojiganga, Pornomotora, Tr3sdecorazón, Tom Sawyer, and Artefacto.

Photo Courtesy of Felipe Carmona @ Artefacto

If you’re going to Altavoz in the future, make sure to wear sunscreen, wear clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty, and bring some food and water.  I would skip bringing a belt, as many events make you check it at the door.

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According to Wikipedia “Tecktonik, also known as Electro Dance, Milky Way or Vertigo, is a French style of street dance danced to electro music based on a blend of techno, rave and hip-hop styles -- (late 80s vogue, 90s waving and old school breakdancing, and 70s disco).”

I came across a bunch of these videos from Medellin on YouTube, so it appears to have a following there. The opening shot of this particular video is in front of the intelligence building in the downtown area.

Has anyone ever heard of or seen Tecktonik before?

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The DAS office now uses Bogotá bank for the deposits.  As far as I know, the deposit has to be made at the location that is across the street from Premium Plaza.  The rest of the required information is the same…for now.  There are possible major changes in January when DAS basically is restructured.  So far, no one seems to know what, if any, changes will be made for tourist visa/stamp.

Requirements to renew tourist visa:

• Original passport
• 3 photos (3×4 cm)
• The completed form they give you at the DAS office (requires the name, address, and phone number of one Colombian national), plus 1 copy
• Deposit 68,700 COP in Acct. 6434911400 codigo 103.
• Original bank deposit and 2 copies
• 2 copies of the information page in passport
• 2 copies of the passport page with Colombian entry stamp
• 2 copies of return flight ticket

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The view from my new home on an atypical rainy day.

I moved into a new apartment recently, and I am so happy in the new neighborhood.  I am still in Envigado, but I am much closer to the center now.  The stores on every corner include markets of all sizes, Internet cafes, bars, restaurants, bakeries, and even an ice cream shop.  I have little need to leave the neighborhood any more.  There are even some great clubs in Envigado that I am within walking distance of now.

Finding an apartment can be quite a task in Medellin.  My roommate handled all of the searching and negotiating, but I could tell it was a frustrating process for him.  Two different apartments that we were looking at got rented out just before we decided to apply for them.

The place we are in now is one of the nicest places I have ever lived.  It is three bedrooms, three baths, and has a gas water heater. It has the typical floors of ceramic tile, a patio for hanging clothes to dry, and a wonderful balcony (about twice the width of most I’ve seen in Medellin).  The entire apartment rents for $750,000 COP, which does not include any of the utilities.

Check out http://www.compartoapto.com if you’re looking for a room in Medellin.  (I have never used this site.  Please use your brain when finding a roommate.)

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First I would like to thank Dave for this great opportunity! Hopefully everybody here at MedellinLiving.com will enjoy reading my posts and I hope to hear back from you guys as well.

My name is Cathy and I am a Colombian-American 29 year old, two-time expat, born in Colombia and raised in Miami, currently living in Medellin. I speak Spanish, French and obviously English. It’s been 4 years since I moved back here (which wasn’t planned, I came on vacation and decided to stay) and I am so glad to have re-discovered my roots in a sense. Living in two countries and getting a good sense of the cultures really opens up your mind and perspective on things, which is what I hope to be able to share with you.

I am a Fine Arts major from Florida International University. I currently do a lot of things, such as teaching English, running and designing a dog clothing line called CAN BE HAPPY, playing the bass in a Led Zeppelin / Black Sabbath cover band and freelancing in photography whenever I get the chance.

I probably won’t be the one talking to you about Mango’s or about local soccer matches. I will most likely, among other odd bits, will be letting you know lots about the certain aspects of the transformation Medellin is undergoing, the music scene, wine, Colombian films, nearby towns, design, art, photography, food, tips on traveling and living here, the drastic contrasts Medellin offers, and the occasional interview with natives and foreigners that are doing positive and I-had-no-idea-this-could-happen-here types of things.

I live in El Poblado and here’s quick view of my home office, which is where I am writing you from.

Here I am resting after a bike ride in Guatapé, Antioquia. If you haven’t been up there yet, I highly recommend it. It’s stunning.

And here’s another pic of the view of the Medellin River and city at night as seen from the 18th floor in an apartment building in the Avenida Las Vegas.

Hasta la próxima!

C.

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Now that I’m back in the US, I can turn on the car radio and hear salsa and reggaeton, but Colombia’s very own genre, vallenato -- not so much.

Carlos Vives is the king of vallenato, and “Carito” is one of his biggest hits.  It’s another case of the music being so catchy, the lyrics don’t matter (to me).

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This is a guest post by Roosh Vörek, author of A Dead Bat In Paraguay.

Doctors Office

As long as you don’t go to the upper-crust Clinica Las Vegas, chances are any doctor you visit is not going to speak English. If you have kept up with a steady diet of buñuelos, empanadas, super perros, palos de queso, and the mysterious street food that features cow entrails, there is a pretty good chance you’ll have to visit a gastroenterologist for problems with your digestive functioning. Sure you can just say, “Mi estomogo es malo,” but to get the best treatment you want to give very fine details about your bowel movements, including frequency, shape, color, and scent. This means you got to study up!

DAS Office

If you’re staying in Colombia for more than two months you’ll have to visit the DAS. Unfortunately more English is spoken by tribesman in the Brazilian Amazon than your friendly DAS office peon, so get ready to practice your Spanish under interrogation-like settings.

(Interestingly enough, one night I went to a bar in Parque Lleras and I turned around to see three workers from the DAS office talking in fluent English. It was extremely smooth with no perceptible accent or errors, but when I went to say hello a snarl appeared on their faces and they reverted back to a Spanish dialect I could not understand.)

Casas

There’s casas and there’s casas. I’m talking about the places where older gentleman callers visit for 30 or 60 minute intervals. Many gringos I’ve spoken to, especially American gringos, have told me that frequenting these casas is great for their Spanish, and is much more economical and fun than paying for a 38-hour block of lessons from EAFIT. This is a great option if you don’t mind that your language study to come with a slight risk of the clap.

Chicle Salesman

You paid how much for that package of cinnamon chicle? Dude, I got it from the same guy last week for 200 pesos cheaper. You got ripped all because you didn’t master the art of negotiation in Spanish. Since most chicle salesmen don’t speak English (for some reason), it’s essential you use the local language to get a killer deal. Sure 200 pesos doesn’t sound like a lot, but if you buy two packs a week like I do that really adds up over the course of a month. (I calculated a savings of a whole American dollar, something my frugal comrades staying in Centro can appreciate. You can buy a palo dequeso with that!)

Roosh Vörek is an American gringo living in Medellin, where he finished his travel memoir called A Dead Bat In Paraguay. Check out his website at http://www.rooshv.com.

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Two things can bring my adventurous and curious nature to a screeching halt.  Death is one of them.  Family is the other.  Both of them have stirred things up for me.  My posts had gone to nil because I was pretty much locked in my bedroom for over a week.

Eli Thompson a jumper from the Red Bull Air Force died in late August.  I had only met him a few times, but he was a part of my base family.  Considering that Shane McConkey (another Red Bull team member and the man who took me on my first base jump) just died earlier this year I was reminded that as a base jumper, I’m knocking on death’s door with every jump.  They were both married and had children, and their deaths remind me that even family bonds have their limits.

Then, a double fatal skydiving accident took the lives of Barb Cuddy and my good friend Robby Bigley.  I jumped at the same dropzone with both of them during the majority of my time skydiving.  In my five years of parachuting, I had never known a jumper that has died in a skydiving accident.  Robby and Barb both had thousands of jumps and were highly trained in their disciplines.  Robby was recently married just weeks before his death.

A few days later, Leroy Buckley, another base jumper, was found dead at the base of a cliff in Utah.  He had been missing for over a week, and I was so upset that I was not able to help look for him.  His last email to me was just days before he went missing.  He didn’t know I was in Colombia, and wanted to save me from boredom with a few jumps with him.

The good news (yet, still news that’s pulling me back home) is that my brother and sister-in-law are going to have a son later this week.  He was not supposed to be born until later in October, but he’s been trying to come to this world early.  We were all quite scared.  Luckily, he decided until the scary preterm part was over, and his arrival will be welcomed whenever he’s ready.

If I was in the States right now I would be bouncing around to funerals, wakes, memorials, and hospitals.  I would be just as cried out as I am now, but I would have been able to cry with my friends and jumping family.  It is so hard to be here sometimes, yet I am also glad I don’t have to face all of it quite so head on.

Soon, my nephew will be born.  I will have more energy to explore this amazing city, and posts will be a bit more normal.  Now…where’s a good building to jump?

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When I told my friend Ryan that I was going to Colombia, he made me promise that I would go to a Soccer game while I was here. I know that he was secretly hoping to make me as big of a soccer fan as he is, and I’m pretty sure he’s on to something.

I went to one of the common Nacional v. Medellin games. Mostly because it was cheap, but also because every time I mentioned wanting to go to a game, this was the one everyone recommended

The South Side

I met up with a fellow couchsurfer, and his only directions were “Don’t wear red!”  The Nacioanl colors are green and white, and the Medellin colors are Red and Blue.  Going to the game it was really interesting to see that pretty much all Nacional fans come from the South and Medellin fans come from the North on the metro.  I found that extremely convenient, and since I was coming from the South (Envigado), and wearing white, it also kept me feeling very safe.

One thing I found out was to leave your belt at home, because they are not allowed in the stadium.  My experience was very similar to Dave’s experience at the game earlier this year.  In-fact, our pictures are almost identical.

I did a little studying the night before, (Yes, I know absolutely nothing about soccer.) and found the game really exciting.  We sat on the East side of the field at the edge of the upper deck near the South side.  Nacional scored the first goal at the beginning of the second half, followed extremely quickly by a Medellin goal.  Medellin scored two more and the game ended with a score of 3-1.  There were a few fights on the field at the end of the game between the players, but they quickly stopped.

Now that I think I’m hooked on this game, I just want to know: When is the next game, and how do I tell Ryan that I’m can’t support his favorite soccer team because they are the wrong colors?

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As I was looking for a video to feature today, I realized I’d been posting mp3’s in the past, when I probably could’ve found videos instead, AND been preserving storage space on my web hosting account to boot!  So, I’ll be scouting out music videos and concert performances instead of uploading mp3’s going forward.

This video features concert footage from Daddy Yankee’s show in Medellin during the 2009 Flower Festival.  Finding out I missed seeing him (from amidst a stadium filled with screaming ladies, no doubt) is like the nail in my departure coffin.

I found a fan video from the show of his big hit of the year (and a song I’ll forever associate with my time in Colombia because I heard it everywhere) -- Llamado de Emergencia.  The video quality isn’t that great, but the sound and singing fans comes through loud and clear.

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Flowers

I had only been in Colombia a few weeks when Valentine’s Day, 2009 arrived.  When I asked around about special events at the bars and clubs, I was informed that most Colombians don’t celebrate V-Day.  Instead, they recognize September 19th as a Day of Love and Friendship.

The rest of the world celebrates Valentine’s Day on 14 February, but Colombia has never been one to go with the flow. Rather, on the Day of Love and Friendship, citizens go a little loopy sending love letters, exchanging gifts, and indulging in a bout of ‘Amigo Secreto’ (known to the rest of the world as Secret Santa, whereby gifts are anonymously given to one’s designated person along with clues as to one’s identity).

— Colombia Reports

Read the rest of CR’s article on the Day of Love and Friendship, which includes perspectives from several Colombians, both young and old.

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“The plan was to just pass through Medellin…but that was four months ago.” The story is all too common here in Medellin. Travelers are either making their way through Southern and Latin America, or come to Medellin for a quick getaway, and suddenly they are hooked. Falling in love with this city is all too common…for guys anyway.

I’ve met at least a dozen guys that have decided to stay in Medellin long term, but I have yet to meet, in person, a single girl that has come to appreciate this city the way the guys do.

The standards for women here are quite different from the standards in the countries that most travelers come from. The problem is, they are very fashion oriented and not very obvious. There is a lot to fashion that I am completely oblivious to, but here are a few tips to make fitting into Medellin just a little bit easier. Looks are key here in Medellin. Sure, other girls care a lot more about it than the guys, but women are the larger part of the population here.

Don’t look like a backpacker. Guys can get away with it, but a T-shirt and shorts will not cut it for women.

Make-up is not optional. It doesn’t have to be super heavy, but unless your skin is naturally flawless, throw on some type foundation and at least some eyeliner EVERY TIME you go out.

Leave the heels at home. Unless they are extremely professional looking, heels are considered tacky, especially at discos. A pair of really nice flats or wedges will go a long way.

Keep accessories simple.  Wearing a lot of jewelry will only get you attention from robbers.  Keep accessories small, shiny, and cheap looking.  Sequence jewelry is the most popular style I see here, and earrings are the most common accessory in Medellin.

Nice jeans are a staple. A simple skinny jean is popular right now, as is a boot cut that has many elegant embellishments. Make sure they are dark wash or white. Shorts are much more rare, and should be as formal as possible.

Tops must shine. They don’t have to be metallic, but they should be at least slightly attention getting. Something that has much attention to detail, a great pattern, and/or flashy colors is what you’re going for. T-shirts must be extremely fitted if worn at all. Tank tops and spaghetti straps are great, but make sure you keep your stomach covered. A small gap above your pants is ok.

Skirts are great but be careful with dresses. Skirts are not as common as jeans, but they are pretty much a free ticket. Keep them a few inches above the knee or longer, unless you have a tiny frame, and any style, color, or material is acceptable. Dresses are just less common. A simple sundress can be worn pretty much anywhere that is casual. Keep them simple for during the day. Dresses are not always common at a disco or club. I would stay away from them unless you know for sure.

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Botero Plaza

My friend Casey just posted his first impressions of Medellin on his Panama blog.  As I read it, I realized he’s not just a savvy business guy, he’s an awesome writer.  Be sure to check it out because his observations parallel my own, and many of the others I heard from backpackers stepping into Colombia for the first time.

Can Colombia Compete with Panama Tourism?

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Bogota restaurant

I recently became aware of a great opportunity to win an all expenses paid trip to Colombia!

6 bloggers have been chosen to represent 6 different countries – the USA, Spain, Peru, Ecuador, Venezuela and Brazil.

They will be heading to Colombia later this month on an all expenses paid trip to tour 4 of the country’s best regions:  Bogota, the Coffee Triangle, Santa Marta, and Cartagena.  The whole experience will be filmed by National Geographic for a TV show to premiere in December.

In addition to the bloggers who will be working on the trip, one individual from each of the same 6 countries will also be chosen to join the adventure!

Right now, I’ve only seen the details posted by the Spanish bloggers.  Once I see the instructions in English, I will share a link, but because the deadline is so soon (September 21), I wanted to get the word out immediately!  Here are the contest instructions in Spanish, as posted on Colombia’s official tourism portal:

In short, you’ll need to record a video stating who you are and what motivates you to want to travel to Colombia.  Upload it to YouTube, and fill out the registration form by September 21.  The winners will be announced on September 24 and contacted electronically.

Good luck (buenas suerte)!

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From an Island in Guatape

On a beautiful Saturday morning, I headed over to the north bus terminal to meet a group of friends and spend the day in Guatape.

The north bus terminal is practically attached to the Caribe metro station.  Once inside I was slightly overwhelmed with the amount of people and destinations.  I was really glad to have my friends there.  The bus ride out was 8,500 COP.  My friends tried to get me to get the ticket by myself, but with my extremely limited Spanish, there were questions I didn’t understand.

We had a really nice bus ride, even though on the way we were stopped several times.  Once was for a cycling marathon, and we were stopped for nearly twenty minutes to let them pass safely.  We were also stopped and searched at one check station.  They checked our bags and patted down the guys.  I’ve seen done at several places in and around Medellin, so I wasn’t bothered.  There was one American on the bus that was slightly frustrated to be searched.

The bus dropped us off at the base of a hill, and we walked up to the base of El Peñol.  From the bottom, I could see that, while it may be suitable to Base jump from, it would be a pretty sketchy jump.  It’s pretty low, and it’s so rounded at the top that it’s impossible to get to the edge without climbing gear or committing to jump.  I might have a look at it again after I get some jumps in the city.

At the base, there were the typical vendors I’ve come to expect at the tourist sites of Medellin.  For 6,000 COP we accessed the stairs to the top of El Peñol.  The climb was super easy, and the view at the top was amazing.  I even challenged a few people to a race, but the stairs were too uneven for it to be safe.

We then took a bus to the town of Guatape, and we spent time at the shore.  It reminded me of the south shore of Lake Tahoe in California, with all of its sidewalk restaurants and water activities.  After eating lunch, we decided to buy some beer, and take a boat to one of the islands.  The island was my favorite part.  It was very small and relaxing.

We paid 11,000 COP for the bus ride back, and while we were waiting for our bus, we ate some arepas, empanadas, and palos de queso from some street vendors.  It was the perfect food after a long day of drinking in the sun.

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This video seems to be affiliated with EAFIT University.  Regardless, it shows off the best of Medellin so I wanted to share it here.  Enjoy!

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Statue at Plaza de Botero

Some times, when I have a few minutes to spare, I just get off the metro at a random stop and explore what’s in the area.  One random Monday, I got off at the Parque Berrío station, and just had a look around.

The streets were completely filled with people.  It was definitely the craziest part of town I have seen yet.  There are stores and malls lining the streets, as well as clothing vendors in the road.  There are few places in the world with that many shoe stores in one place.

This is also the area to find Plaza de Botero.  The statues are definitely worth going to see, if only to giggle at the little kids that don’t quite know what to make of it.  In fact, it’s pretty entertaining to watch everyone look at these statues.

I didn’t have a chance to go into the Museum that is located here, but I will sometime in the future.

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The construction site from the Exposiciones metro station.

I see plenty of buildings in Medellin that are potential base jumps.  I’ve spied most of them form the metro, but I haven’t had a chance to properly check them out.

I’ve been working on getting a job teaching English.  After I went to talk to the head of an institute, I was making my way back to the metro, and I decided to check out a building that was under construction.

I started walking through a neighborhood near the Alpujarra and Exposiciones metro stations.  It seems like the business areas around Medellin have ‘themes’ for the neighborhood.  This area was all for motorcycle sales and repair.  They were working on the bikes in the street, and there was a huge variety of motorcycle gear.

As I approached the building that was under construction, I noted a few other buildings in the area that could be possible jumps.  One in particular caught my eye because all the windows were opened, and it looked very accessible.  When I got to the building, I found out it’s some kind of government building.  It has a perfect landing area, and it’s one of the tallest buildings in the area.  I’m going to have to ask around to see how to get into that building.

I continued to the building that was under construction.  As I had thought, the landing area was just the road, which is pretty small, with a few power lines running along it.  The access would be really easy.  I’m going to take someone with me next time, so I can take a better look.

Finally, I saw a parking garage that could be a great jump.  The access is extremely easy, but I’m not sure if it’s tall enough.

I’ll be visiting Guatape to check out El Peñol, which many people tell me could be jumpable.  Looking at pictures, I don’t think it has a face that is sheer enough, but I’m excited to look at it.

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The Arepa - Sept/Oct 2009

The Arepa’s Sept/Oct 2009 issue represents its fourth, and the first one in full color.  Congrats to Robin and his team for continuing to build a dynamic and fun English language culture and nightlife guide to Medellin.

The cover story in this installment is Medellin’s skateboarding scene, which I think is a totally rad topic to feature (as a former skater myself)!

Additional topics include:

• How to Sound Like a Colombian
• Rio Claro (national park)
• Interview with The Ataris
• Profile of a Street Artist
• ….and as always, a breakdown of Medellin’s various neighborhoods and upcoming events!

If you’re in Medellin, or on your way, be sure to check out The Arepa.

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Jaymar Colombian Breeze Restaurant in Maryland

I met Jacob and his Colombian wife, Astrid, at Jaymar Colombian Breeze restaurant in Gaithersburg, Maryland.  He is currently working back here in the US, though their plan is to return to Medellin by the end of the year.

Apparently the neighborhood was designed by the guy who made that spooky Jim Carey movie, The Truman Show.  Indeed, everything looked a little too perfect.  But inside the small, Cali family-owned restaurant, the menu was 100% Colombian.  Beef empanadas were ordered as an appetizer, and while not as greasy as I was accustomed to in Medellin, they were good.  I ordered blackberry juice and a massive chicken tamale which arrived with an arepa with cheese.  Both were delicious.

Like me, Jacob couldn’t help but compare life in the US with that in Colombia and Medellin.  It felt good to talk with someone who didn’t mind my lamenting.  I mentioned my weekly salsa dancing at Arlington’s Salsa Room/Cecelia’s, so they might join me for a night out, which would be cool too.

Colombian Breeze restaurant was recognized by Washingtonian magazine as one of the 100 best places for “cheap eats” in the metro area.

______________

Jaymar Colombian Breeze – 348 Main Street, Gaithersburg, Maryland, USA

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