Mega Relojes

Chopard LUC Perpetual T - tourbillon with perpetual calendar and 9 days power reserve

2013-04-28T13:55:00.001-06:00

One of the most complicated Chopard LUC timepieces, the LUC Perpetual T is perpetual calendar with tourbillon, and more than a week's worth of power reserve.

Made in-house by Chopard like all the rest of the LUC line, the Perpetual T is Chopard's flagship timepiece for Baselworld 2013. Building on the movement of the even more complicated LUC All-in-One, the Perpetual T has a perpetual calendar with large date display, though no moon phase.

The sub-dial at nine o'clock shows the day of the week, and day and night display, while the one across indicates the leap year and month.

At six o'clock is the tourbillon regulator, with Chopard's distinctive shuriken-shaped tourbillon cage. The Perpetual T is a COSC certified chronometer.

The movement has four barrels, and a nine day power reserve. Like the other top-end LUC watches it is beautifully finished, and has the Geneva Seal.

LUC cal. 02.15-L

The dial side of the movement

The rose gold case is 43 mm wide and features a silver-plated solid gold dial.

- SJX

Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronograph Dark Side Of The Moon Watch Hands-On

2013-04-28T13:49:00.001-06:00

A simple evolution, the Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronograph Dark Side Of the Moon (debuted here) proves remarkably lovable on the wrist. In a glossy black ceramic case with matching black ceramic dial, the "Moonwatch" naturally borrowed the name "Dark Side Of The Moon" from such things as the actual dark side of earth's moon, and Pink Floyd's famous album. Chronophiles will no doubt be interested to learn that 2013 is the 40th anniversary of the classic rock masterpiece.

I sat with Omega CEO Stephan Urquhart to discuss, among other things, the future of ceramic at Omega. It is certainly a major go. Ceramic stopped being a plaything years ago, and is now slated to sit between steel and precious metals as a mass produced luxury watch material for bezels, dials, and cases. At least at Omega, that is more or less confirmed for the future. Omega actually admitted that the Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon watch was ready a couple of years ago. Omega just wanted to wait until the right moment to release it. It is already selling like mad to eager retailers. If the new upgraded Speedmaster was a fast hit, this is a speed boost. I am going to play some Dark Side Of The Moon Music and write about this puppy.

The 44.25mm wide case is a cherry size on the wrist fitting oh so comfortably. Something about the design further makes it feel flatter than it is - which is a good thing. The rear of the case is one large sapphire crystal which domes over the movement giving you a hell of a nice view into the in-house made caliber. Omega didn't just slap together a ceramic case. Careful detailing went into the precise textures and tone making sure that it was the proper shade of black and shined in just the right way. Areas of the case are brushed, but it certainly grabs your attention with some notable sheen.

Black watches are a mysteriously popular type of timepiece. Why they look so cool much of the time is something to perhaps ponder on another time (see Exploring the science behind black watches in our bi-weekly round-up). Nevertheless, black is both sporty and masculine in a rebellious way that no naked steel or titanium watch can seem to match. Ceramic has the added bragging point of being near impossible to scratch or tarnish. Sure a hefty blow might crack the case, but such a blow would probably damage the movement of watches with metal cases anyway. It is just a stunning execution for the typically conservative family of Speedmaster watches.

Omega didn't need to actually engrave "Dark Side Of The Moon" onto the rear of the watch, but they did. It isn't a limited edition either. Thankfully, this is a standard model in the Speedmaster collection for now, and I promise you that given its success at the show, will be built upon in the future. Despite the black tones of the case and dial, legibility is fully intact as it would be on any other Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronograph. The baton hour markers and hands are properly sized and easy to read, maintaining the DNA of the original Speedmaster Moonwatch.

For years now, Omega has wanted to be eye-to-eye with Rolex. Unfortunately, with the amount of new pieces Omega releases they will never be able to maintain the same level of staunch conservatism as their rival who tends to release experiments such as this maybe a handful of times each decade (if that). You have got to give Omega kudos for supplementing its major product pillars with pieces like this. Omega knows how to equally cater to novice watch lovers as well as enthusiasts who can get behind the concept of a watch like this with haste.

Inside all of the new 44.25mm wide Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronograph watches is the in-house made Omega caliber 9300 automatic chronograph movement. Silicon parts for accuracy (COSC Chronometer certified) and resistance as well as a long power reserve along with a Co-Axial escapement. Inherent to the movement's design, are two hands in the right subdial to measure both the chronograph hours and minutes (it can also be used as a second time zone). This gives the Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronograph the flattering appearance of having only two subdials.

For a watch with such thin strips of lume, it is remarkably bright in the dark. Sporty touches of red complete the look along with the engraved tachymeter scale on the ceramic bezel. Instead of a leather or rubber strap, Omega decided to outfit the Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon watch with a black cordura textile strap with a black ceramic buckle. Just a killer watch and one of my top picks from the Baselworld 2013 watch show. Omega will commercially release the Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronograph Dark Side Of The Moon watch in the fall of 2013 and it will be priced at about 10,000 Swiss Francs. Worth the premium over the steel model? I think your heart answered that for you. omegawatches.com

Breitling Emergency II Hands-On: Truly Global Rescue Beacon In A Watch

2013-04-28T13:42:00.001-06:00

Will you ever be in a situation where you might need a rescue team to come find you? If so the Breitling Emergency II watch is a gadget you are going to want strapped to your wrist. This is an exclusive hands-on first look by aBlogtoWatch, though we originally debuted the Breitling Emergency II watch here.

In addition to being a luxury Swiss watch maker, Breitling retains its role as a supplier of professional-use timepieces to military personnel and demanding active people all over the world. For 2013, Breitling has released an updated and improved version of their famous Emergency watch designed to be used in situations where you might need to be rescued. The Emergency II represents a unique evolution in miniaturizing emergency beacon frequency technology in what is otherwise a stately-sized timepiece.

The original Breitling Emergency watch is a distinctive-looking piece and was released in the mid- to late- 1990s. It contained a capsule filled with a wiry antenna that when deployed automatically transmitted a signal on the 121.5 MHz emergency frequency channel. It had a range of about 100 miles, and was to be used exclusively in legitimate emergency rescue situations as the 121.5 frequency is actively monitored by search and rescue authorities.

In about 2009, I understand that most marine and air services stopped using the 121.5 MHz frequency in favor of the 406.040 MHz frequency channel for emergency beacon signals. The reason is obvious, given that the 121.5 MHz frequency's range is limited. The 406.040 MHz signal is also monitored by low orbit satellites that are part of the Cospas-Sarsat system. This effectively gives the Emergency II watch a much more impressive range than the original Emergency given that the wearer is no longer limited to transmitting a signal with a 100 mile range.

On land, the 121.5 MHz frequency is still monitored because there are very few places that are 100 miles out of range of an emergency beacon monitoring station. In air or at sea, that is a different story. Therefore, the Emergency II watch automatically transmits both signals when the beacon system is activated. The Emergency II is the very first watch that a dual frequency emergency beacon technology has been implemented into a timepiece.

How it works is rather simple. The Emergency II watch is basically part timepiece, and part radio transmitter. The transmitter has a pair of antennae that sit in a pair of capsules which are accessible on the sides of the watch. Unscrewing the caps and extending the wire-style antenna automatically activates the beacon system, which alternates between sending out signals to the 121.5 MHz and 406.040 MHz periodically for about 24 hours. The system uses a rechargeable battery, which should be charges each 2 months. I am glad that Breitling was able to manage all this in the space of a wrist watch as the 406.040 MHz signal requires much more power than the 121.5 MHz frequency to transmit.

Breitling supplies a smart charging base with each Emergency II watch. The charging base not only charges the beacon battery, but also does a systems check to ensure that the system is in proper working order. The watch movement itself operates on a separate battery. This new system is significantly more robust than the one on the older Emergency watch. In addition to the dual frequency capabilities, the Breitling Emergency II watch is finally a emergency beacon system that allows for search and rescue anywhere in the world.

It is likely that Breitling will extend their original Emergency watch policy to the Emergency II. That policy said that if someone uses an Emergency watch in a true emergency situation, Breitling will replace their Emergency watch without charge. A replacement is necessary due to the antenna system which was designed for a one-time use.

The new technology of the Emergency II watch is rather fantastic, and I am pleased to hear that Breitling was able to offer the same, no-brainer operation as the original. As a watch the Emergency II looks like the big brother of the original Emergency, quite literally. The Emergency II is a rather large timepiece, even by large watch standards. It is wearable, but at 51mm wide, it is probably going to be the largest (and quite thick) watches in your collection. Produced entirely in titanium, the Emergency II isn't that heavy though - so at least weight is not an issue.

From the markings on the caseback to the overall personality of the watch, the Emergency II doesn't feel like a gimmicky high-end sport watch but rather a serious tool for active professionals who find themselves in high-risk situations. The entire point of a product like the Emergency II is to be reliable, and Breitling has done everything in their power to ensure that the Emergency II watch is just that.

Inside the watch, is a Swiss Breitling Caliber 76 SuperQuartz COSC Chronometer certified multifunction quartz movement. These fantastic thermocompensated quartz movements offer a rich variety of functions such as a 1/100th of a second chronograph, countdown timer, world time function, alarm, and full calendar. This is done via the analog hands for the time and the two negative display LCD screens. All of the functions are operated via the crown. Thermocompensated quartz movements such as the SuperQuartz are accurate to about plus or minus 10 seconds a year (which is very good).

Water resistant to 50 meters the Emergency II watch isn't meant for any serious time underwater. The dial comes in three colors, being black, yellow, and orange. Over the dial is a sapphire crystal and attached to the case is either a titanium Professional bracelet of a Breitling Diver Pro III rubber strap.

While wearability is an issue given the large 51mm case size, that likely won't deter professionals who have been relying on Breitling Emergency watches in the event they are caught in emergency situations and they need a beacon in order to be recused. I am not sure if the Emergency II will totally replace the original Emergency, but I suspect that it might. As the technology in the Emergency II timepiece is still new, the price is quite high at launch, being around $15,000. breitling.com

Hublot Masterpiece MP-05 LaFerrari with 50 day power reserve

2013-04-26T20:49:00.001-06:00

At Baselworld 2013 Hublot announced the amazing Masterpiece MP-05 LaFerrari. It has a cylindrical, transverse movement with a tourbillon regulator and 50 hour power reserve.

Named after the limited edition LaFerrari hybrid supercar launched at the Geneva Motor Show in January, the Hublot Masterpiece MP-05 LaFerrari is probably the most intriguing automotive themed watch of recent years. It was created by Mathias Buttet, the technical genius at Hublot who was also behind the MP-02 Key of Time.

The movement - which has 637 parts, the most of any Hublot calibre - has 11 barrels laid out side by side in a straight line down the centre of the watch. These barrels unwind simultaneously, and give the watch a record 50 day power reserve. This puts the MP-05 LaFerrari ahead of the previous record holder, the Rebellion T-1000 which can run for 41 days.

At the front of the watch case, at the base of the stacked barrels, is the vertical tourbillon. Beating at 21,600 bph (3 Hz), the tourbillon has an extremely large balance wheel with a diameter of 14.5 mm.

An exploded view of the movement with its 637 components, including 108 jewels

The time is displayed on two revolving cylinders on the top right of the watch, with the upper cylinder indicating the hours and the lower one the minutes.

On the other side is the power reserve display on a single cylinder. Both the time and power reserve cylinders are secured by red anodised reinforcement bars.

The 11 barrels are wound with a key that has to be inserted into a socket at the top of the watch, while the time is set by a crown under the watch.

The case is black PVD coated titanium, fitted to a rubber strap. Only 50 pieces of the MP-05 LaFerrari will be made.

In Singapore this will retail for S$585,300 including 7% tax, which is equivalent to about US$475,000.

- SJX

Chairman of Ferrari Luca Cordero di Montezemolo with the MP-05 LaFerrari
and with the actual LaFerrari behind him

Tudor Fastrider Black Shield ceramic chronograph

2013-04-26T20:43:00.001-06:00

The Tudor Fastrider Black Shield is the brand's first all ceramic watch. It has a monobloc matte black ceramic case with the case and bezel being a single piece.

Equipped with a one piece black ceramic case made by injection moulding, the Fastrider Black Shield is Tudor's first all ceramic watch. The case construction makes it unusual as typically ceramic watches have multi-part cases.

A one-piece case on the other hand means fewer gaskets are needed, meaning there is a lower chance of moisture or dust entering the case.

The crown and pushers are in black PVD coated steel, completing the all black look. For contrast the indices, hands and chapter ring are in red (ref. 42000CR). This is available with a rubber strap or a leather strap with red stitching.

Another model is available with khaki hands and indices, for a more casual look (ref. 42000CN), with the option of a khaki Alcantara strap or a black rubber strap.

Water resistant to 150 m ,the ceramic case has a diameter of 42 mm and the movement is the automatic Valjoux 7753.

- SJX

Hublot Masterpiece MP-05 LaFerrari

2013-04-25T16:55:00.001-06:00

Tribute to Ferrari and Haute Horlogerie

Today we’ve visited a number of brands, but one of the most impressive pieces was definitely the Hublot Masterpiece MP-05 “LaFerrari”. This watch is not only a tribute to the manufacturer of super cars from Maranello, it is also a watch that proofs the watchmaking skills from Hublot. A power reserve of no less than 50 hours due to its 11 barrels in the movement and a vertical tourbillon.

The caliber HUB9005.H1.6 movement consists of 637 parts of which 108 are used for jewels. The large movement measures 45.8mm x 39.5mm. Hublot is producing this Masterpiece MP-05 “LaFerrari” in a series of 50 numbered pieces. Each with a price tag of 300,000 Swiss Francs (including VAT).

Exceptional Shape of the Hublot Masterpiece MP-05

You’ve probably seen some strange shaped watches before, we covered many here during the last 9 years on Fratellowatches. Hublot managed to create a watch with the same complex shape as the car has. The open case-back is made from black PVD titanium and at 12 o’clock, you will find the winding crown surrounded by titanium and carbon parts. Also almost invisible is the time setting mechanism. The crown and time setting mechanism just blend in perfectly in the design of the watch.

Time And Power Reserve Indication

You might have to look closely when you first examine the Hublot ref. 905.ND.0001.RX or Masterpiece MP-05 “LaFerrari” timepiece. Let’s start with one of the key features of the watch, the 50 days of power reserve. On the left side of the barrels, you will find the power reserve indicator, showing you the remaining power left in the watch. On the right side of the barrels, you see the indication for hours and minutes. All the way below, at 6 o’clock, you will find the seconds indicator. Both the power reserve indicator and hour and minutes indicators, Hublot made sure to make use of the famous Ferrari color. Red.

Hublot Toolbox

The Hublot Masterpiece MP-05 “LaFerrari” comes in a very special box. It even needs power to be operated (open and closed). The box also contains a small drawer with tools to wind the watch and set the hours and minutes.

More information can be found at www.hublot.ch

Clerc Hydroscaph H1 Watch

2013-04-22T18:20:00.001-06:00

Here in the aBlogtoWatch watch dungeon, we are currently putting the new for 2013 Clerc Hydroscaph H1 watch through our rigorous watch testing procedures. So a hands-on review of the H1 will come in due time, but until then we'd like to share the news about this new three-hand version of the Clerc Hydroscaph, which is the H1.

There will likely be a few versions of the H1. This is the steel model with a really lovely metallic blue dial. I wouldn't have thought that a bright green trimmed minutes hand would have worked, but it does. The 44mm wide case is typical Hydroscaph with its unique design and patented rotating bezel locking system (that unfolds like a little winding key). The crown design appears to be new and is rather interesting.

Inside the watch is a Clerc caliber C609 automatic movement that is a base ETA with special decoration and is partially viewable through two smaller sapphire crystal caseback windows. The movement is COSC Chronometer certified as well. Not necessary really, but a pleasant added bonus. As a diver, the case is water resistant to 500 meters. While technically more simple than previous Hydroscaph models, the simple three-hand dial is very legible and elegant. Assuming the price is right, this will make a nice addition to the Clerc Hydroscaph family. Look for the full review on this H1 watch soon, but until then you can check out Clerc at their booth at Baselworld 2013 and/or check out the review video. clercwatches.com

Linde Werdelin Oktopus II Watch Review

2013-04-22T18:16:00.001-06:00

For months now I found myself putting the Linde Werdelin Oktopus II Titanium Yellow Double Date watch on my wrist more times than I would have first anticipated. With its avocado green strap and bold sporty looks, I always liked the watch but guessed that it would settle in to be more of a 'once-in-a-while' piece. The limited edition dive watch from the 'alternative' UK sports watch brand really proved me wrong. The charming boutique character and good looking case along with dial legibility ended up sealing the deal that it was a watch to wear all the time. By the way, in this post we are experimenting with allowing you to click on pictures to get larger versions of them. Let us know in the comments how that works for you and if you'd like more of that in the future.

We first debuted the Linde Werdelin Oktopus II Double Date watch just over a year as the successor to the brand's first dive watch, the Oktopus (debuted here in 2009). While the case dimensions remained relatively the same, and given the brand's design DNA, the Oktopus II is quite different than the original. It isn't actually a better or worse watch, the Oktopus II is merely a "re-imagined" concept of what a Linde Werdelin dive watch should be. When I first saw the Oktopus II last year at Baselworld, I said to Linde Werdelin "you are finally settling into a brand design DNA comfortably with this piece. While it is true that all Linde Werdelin watches have more or less the same case shape (for a specific reason), they are only recently finding that right mixture between avant garde and modern style that allows people to identify their pieces with immediacy.

Nevertheless, as a brand that only produces limited edition watches, their entire aesthetic ethos is constantly evolving. That is just a natural effect of always coming up with new and more interesting things. In a sense, investing in a watch from Linde Werdelin is like buying a very temporal work in progress along a continuum that will hopefully last for a very long time. While watches from brands such as Linde Werdelin aren't like beta products, they are more like art. You are buying a glimpse into what the brand was focused on at a specific time and place in their own history, and the history of the world. Timeless watches from larger brands such a Rolex are very much "complete products." They exist in their own design world aiming to offer an insular look and feel meant to apply to yesterday, today, and tomorrow. Boutique watch brands like Linde Werdelin are more agile in their development.

It is easy to understand this concept when realizing that Linde Werdelin only produced 88 pieces of this specific Oktopus II watch. Not 88,000 or even 8,800. Just 88 pieces. The downside for the pernicious collector is that knowing 'the right' Linde Werdelin watch to buy can be tough. Something new is always around the corner, so settling on one product is a challenge. I suppose the hope is that you'll buy a new one each few years to not only own a piece of their brand, but be a member of the small group of people who is actually seeing how the brand continues to evolve, and enjoying the process along the way.

True enough, wearing the Oktopus II is an experience unlike walking around with most other timepieces. Very rarely do I wear a timepiece that really isn't directly inspired by anything else. The Oktopus II isn't an homage watch, it isn't trying to look like some type of industrial instrument or a piece of a submarine. Rather, it is a completely independent design that attempts to justify its existence on its own. I never fully appreciated that until wearing a rare item such as this, even though I have reviewed a number of other Linde Werdelin timepieces in the past. The effort involved in attempting a truly original watch design that actually looks good and complete is very challenging. I honestly do have a newfound appreciation for Linde Werdelin and its fellow independent watch maker brands who have decided to design in this manner.

My favorite aspect of the Oktopus II is probably the case. The basic 44mm wide shape, like all other Linde Werdelin timepieces, is design to accept Linde Werdelin's clip on wrist instruments such as The Rock or The Reef diving computer. That is why the flanks are indented as such. Aside from the same basic shape, the Oktopus II's case is very unique. It is constructed from a series of parts, being mostly titanium with a black ceramic bezel. This is actually the first time the brand has used ceramic in a watch. The black side parts of the case are coated with a the very scratch resistant DLC coating.

Linde Werdelin did a great job on the case detailing and machining. The satin-finished and brushed titanium looks great with extremely precise edges and a really high-quality look. Most of the hex screws use matching yellow o-rings for an added and welcome splash of color. On the rear of the case is a titanium case back etched with the timepiece's octopus logo. An amusing vision of the "wrong end" of a giant octopus if it was swimming toward you. Compared to the original Oktopus, the Oktopus II has less water resistance. It is now 'just' 300 meters versus 1,111 meters. That honestly doesn't matter to me. It is still a dive watch and will go as deep as I ever wish to descend.

Probably the most experimental area of the Oktopus II is the dial. This Oktopus II Titanium Yellow version is in the Double Date collection. Already Linde Werdelin has released the Oktopus II Moon watch (hands-on here). The Double Date model has a big date indicator, which is one of my favorite 'useful' complications. Linde Werdelin wanted to spice it up a bit by putting the numerals as cut-outs on discs, rather than as printed numerals on discs. You'll notice the double discs under 12 o'clock. The concept is good in theory, and they look cool, but some legibility is of course hampered by the design. I suggested to Linde Werdelin that they put a dark-colored plate under the numerals to enhance legibility. I don't think that ended up happening.

Richard Mille for example does a similar thing with cut-outs, but does it a bit better given the placement of contrast coloring behind the discs. The big date system still works fine and looks good, but it didn't quite reach its full potential. The rest of the dial retains good legibility given the complex design and several textures. SuperLumiNova lume keeps the dial easy to read in the dark. Another nod to the unique design is that the brand logo is placed out of the way on the periphery of the dial. While it isn't perfect, I nevertheless did fall in love with the unique styling of the dial. In a sense its quirks are endearing, as it is able to mix its task of telling the time nicely with being an artistic design item.

The soft, high-quality rubber strap uses a standard buckle, but is actually able to be cut to length. Linde Werdelin now offers an alligator and textile strap as well (for an additional price). Everyone originally thought that the Titanium Yellow version of the Oktopus II watch was going to in fact come with a yellow strap. It is much less yellow than it is bright 'mollusk' green, or as I said, fresh avocado.

Before discussing the movement I need to bring up what was the single most controversial element of the Oktopus II watch when it first came out - that lack of rotating diver's bezel. Conservative watch lovers yell aloud "it cannot be a diver without a diving bezel." If you feel that way I understand your sentiments, and I am a known fan of the rotating bezel. Nevertheless, I never find myself missing it on the Oktopus II watch. That doesn't mean I wouldn't appreciate a rotating bezel if one were here, but rather that the existing design of the ceramic bezel and overall presentation of the watch is enough for me. I have plenty of other dive watches in my collection for when I want a more "standard" diver with more standard parts. If you haven't noticed yet, Linde Werdelin has gone to admirable lengths to make the Oktopus II a different sort of diver.

Inside the Oktopus II Double Date is an exclusive automatic movement produced by Dubois-Depraz for Linde Werdelin. They call it the caliber 14580 automatic, and it has about two days of power reserve and runs at 28,800 vph. The Linde Werdelin Oktopus II is at its very heart a capable albeit unique boutique dive watch with real soul. If you fancy cool stuff that no one else has, then you'll love it. Limited to 88 pieces as the Titanium Yellow model - other colors and materials in the Oktopus II collection exist. As seen, it is priced at 9,500 Swiss Francs. lindewerdelin.com

Necessary Data
>Brand: Linde Werdelin
>Model: Oktopus II Titanium Yellow
>Price: 9,500 Swiss Francs
>Size: 44mm wide
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: A man of resources who enjoys art as much as sports cars and not fitting in to the crowd.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Less than ideal legibility of big date indicator.
>Best characteristic of watch: Experimental design comes together in a satisfying and endearing manner for long-term enjoyment.

Jacob & Co. Epic SF24 with flip clock dual time

2013-04-20T17:10:00.001-06:00

Jacob & Co. presents an intriguing multiple time zone watch with the second time zone displayed on flaps, the Epic SF24.

Though not often regarded as a technical watchmaker, New York jeweller Jacob & Co. has just unveiled the Epic SF24. This shows one time zone on the main dial, and a second time zone, along with the city, on flaps at 12.

These flaps work just like those on flip clocks from the eighties in which the flaps of the digital display flip downwards as the time advances.

Inside is a Concepto base movement with a module developed for Jacob & Co. by an external specialist.

The 45 mm case is available in either titanium or rose or white gold. More details to follow at Baselworld 2013.

- SJX

Corum Ti-Bridge Power Reserve Watch Hands-On

2013-04-19T09:51:00.001-06:00

For some reason, all of 2012 went by without us posting a single article on Corum on aBlogtoWatch. I personally covered the brand on other sites such as Departures-International.com, during that year, but it was all quiet on this front. So here is a piece I should have covered last year but at least I am getting to it now. This is probably the most interesting and useful of Corum's masculine Ti-Bridge collection of watches. It is the Ti-Bridge 3 Day Power Reserve (which I will just refer to as the "Ti-Bridge Power Reserve") and there is a lot to like about it if you are into the style and Corum Bridge concept.

One of Corum's major product "pillars" is the Bridge, aka "Golden Bridge" collection of timepieces. These have very elegant linear movements that are vertically aligned and suspended in tonneau-shaped cases. While really interesting in its design, the Golden Bridge never felt manly enough, even with its men's versions. Though Corum says that is totally not true in Asia. Fair enough. For the rest of the world they needed a more dude-friendly version of the Bridge watch that could encapsulate the same movement notion. Thus, the Ti-Bridge watch was born.

The "Ti" in the name stands for titanium, which is the material of the watch itself as well as the movement bridge. For this collection of watches (originally released a few years ago), Corum placed the linear movement on its side and added some neat X-shaped bridges to hold the movement in place. In this orientation Corum was able to make a different style of case which is sort of a grown-up tonneau case and is 42.5mm wide by 52.5mm tall. The curvy case fits nicely on the wrist and is bold and pretty interesting. No doubt it is for watch movement lovers, as you can almost pornographically see the gears and movement in action. I love that so little is hidden...

The Ti-Bridge Power Reserve incorporates the Corum CO107 manually wound movement that has a full three days of power reserve. My favorite part is the linear style power reserve indicator on the right of the dial. A red-framed arrow indicator moves up and down across the indicator gauge as a useful, but out-of-the-way power reserve. I will say it once again, if I must wear a manually wound watch, it better darn well have a power reserve indicator. As having an automatic rotor would sort of defeat the purpose of this movement, Corum was really smart in adding this complication to make the Ti-Bridge collection more desirable.

The movement is well designed and great to look at, even though the tones are dark, appreciation of the detail is not difficult. Another important addition to the dial are the actual minute and hour indicators around the periphery on a flange ring. It might not seem like much, but it does allow for some measure of legibility. The hands are on the stubby side for sure, but reading the time shouldn't be an issue.

Another really good part of the movement is the depth. Corum also did a nice job of having a rear semi-plate on the back of the watch so that you don't have to look at your arm hair all the time. There is just one open strip under the movement. The Golden Bridge watches all have much more open sapphire windows on the front, rear, and sometimes sides of the case. Good for ladies more than men (at least ladies without that much arm hair). Corum has your wrists "covered" with the Ti-Bridge collection.

The Ti-Bridge Power Reserve case itself is in all titanium with a rather good fit and finish and interesting design. It has an industrial looking appeal given the long unbroken lines and brushed surfaces. I quite like that Corum deigned to produce a bracelet for this watch as well. This really enhances the overall presentation of the watch a lot in my opinion. Though if you prefer it on a rubber strap, the Ti-Bridge Power Reserve can come with one of those as well. Overall I think that the Ti-Bridge Power Reserve is a pretty interesting underdog watch and sits uniquely in the brand next to Corum's more popular Admiral's Cup collection. Retail price is $19,800. corum.ch

Christophe Claret Kantharos Watch Exclusive Debut

2013-04-19T09:46:00.001-06:00

Lucky for you Christophe Claret watch lovers that Mr. Claret's newest piece is also probably his most affordable yet. No, it isn't going to come cheap at about $100,000 bucks. But that is better than $200,000 right? It does however come with a cool name; "Kantharos." A strong title - the term is actually quite simple. A kantharos is the term used to describe a form of ancient Greek pottery. More specifically, a drinking vessel. So the watch is like a tall glass of cool water? Not exactly... I think Claret's motive was to comment on how the high-contrast dial is similar to the high-contrast colors on these antique pots.

The Kantharos uses the same case and aesthetics of the Christophe Claret Blackjack 21, Baccarat, and Soprano watches. It looks like the brand will settle on this case design and dial style for a while to come. While we have just one picture at launch, the Kantharos will be available in five versions. Pictured is the black titanium model, but other versions will includes cases that mix titanium and various tones of gold. The case here is 45mm wide and looks quite sporty for a high-end collector's watch.

For me, the dial of the Kantharos looks like an angry owl. Am I the only one that can see that? Just look at those grimacing eye brows! I mean hands.... Chronograph subdials make for emotive eyes, and the open window of the constant force escapement makes for a hell of a complex beak. The dial isn't the only unique thing about the Kantharos, this is truly an original watch when it comes to the complication. Christophe does not disappoint when it comes to cleverly arranging features in a way I would have never anticipated.

In addition to being an automatic (I think a first for Christophe Claret branded watches), the Kantharos caliber MBA13 movement has the time, a monopusher 12 hour chronograph, a constant force escapement (which means that power runs from the mainspring barrel to the movement in a consistent amount no matter how tightly wound the spring is). This helps a watch be more accurate over time, and a sonnerie function for the chronograph.

Allow me to explain this latter function as it debuted on Christophe Claret's Dual Tow watch (hands-on here). You know how when you press keys on your phone, it beeps to let you know that the key was registered? It is sort of the same thing. When you press the chronograph pusher, a cathedral style gong is hit by a sonnerie hammer to let you know that you "did something." This is the same type of musical system used in minute repeater watches. Christophe Claret simply calls this function a "mechanical chime," which is more or less what it is. You can actually see the hammer through a window at 10 o'clock on the dial. Now you have a lot more reason to play with the chronograph. All that complexity for such simple auditory satisfaction...

Not exactly elegant, the dial of the Kantharos is however cool in that "Claret weird" sort of way. There is a ton of horological street cred in a watch like this. Claret can more or less design it to look however he wants because his movements are so cool and I highly admire his modern approach to making watches. The almost controversial oddity of the watch appeals to me in that it isn't trying to attract any part of the mainstream. Christophe Claret loves making high-end mechanical toys (that tell the time), and his passion is all about the movements. The style of the Kantharos reflects his own personality and ambitions to modernize and keep fresh the honestly antiquated art of watchmaking. We will get a hands-on look at the Kantharos watch soon. Retail price will start at 96,000 Swiss Francs. christopheclaret.com

Technical data from Christophe Claret:

Movement: Calibre: MBA13, self-winding mechanical movement

Dimensions: 31.6 x 10.56 mm (without gong)
37.6 x 10.56 mm (with gong)

Number of components: 558

Number of jewels: 75

Power reserve: 48 hours (approx.)

Escapement: Swiss anchor, 3 Hz (21,600 vib/h), constant force

Functions:
- Hours and minutes
- Mono-pusher chronograph
- Mechanical chime, each time the function is changed (start, stop, reset)
- Patented cathedral gong
- Constant force mechanism visible at 6 o'clock on the dial side and underneath the sapphire bridge
- Platinum automatic weight

Distinctive features:
- Anthracite rhodium-plated main plate and bridges, white or pink gold gears, depending on the version
- Sapphire bridge with gold chatons

Case:

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 15.83 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

White gold/ anthracite titanium version:
Anthracite dial:
- White gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium
- Ruby red and black PVD hands
- White gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium crown
- ADLC-coated stainless steel and white gold clasp
- Black alligator strap with red stitching

Pink gold/anthracite titanium version:
Anthracite dial:
- 5N pink gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium
- Ruby red and black PVD hands
- 5N pink gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium crown
- ADLC-coated stainless steel and 5N pink gold clasp
- Black alligator strap with black stitching

Titanium version:
Rhodium-plated dial:
- Grade 5 titanium (polished/satin-finished)
- Ruby red and black PVD hands
- Rhodium-plated dial back with black PVD chrono appliques
- Grade 5 titanium and black PVD grade 5 titanium crown
- ADLC-coated stainless steel clasp
- Black alligator strap with black stitching

Pink gold/anthracite titanium version:
Pink dial:

- 5N pink gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium
- Black ceramic and anthracite grey PVD hands
- Red chrono hand
- Pink dial back with 5N pink gold chrono appliques
- 5N pink gold and grade 5 anthracite grey PVD titanium crown
- ADLC-coated stainless steel and 5N pink gold clasp
- Black alligator strap with black stitching

Black titanium version:
Anthracite dial:
- Black PVD grade 5 titanium
- Blue spinel and black PVD hands
- Blue chrono hand with Super-Luminova arrow
- Anthracite rhodium-plated dial back with black PVD chrono appliques
- Black PVD grade 5 titanium crown, with blue spinel cabochon
- ADLC-coated stainless steel clasp
- Black alligator strap with blue stitching

Numbered series

Public price: From 96,000 Swiss francs, excluding tax

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch

2013-04-19T09:40:00.001-06:00

2013 will see a number of additions to the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 watch collection that started last year with mega 57.5mm wide Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 that included a rather amazing recreation of a competition movement. Never intended as a serious collection, the popularity of the Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 likely spurred enough noise that Zenith CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour decided to expand on the range. This new Zenith Pilot model is the most appreciated Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar, and includes the name Zenith El Primero caliber 4054 automatic movement produced in conjunction with maker designer Ludwig Oeschlin. This movement originally debuted in the Zenith Captain Winsor watch.

From classy now to sporty, the chronograph with annual calendar in the El Primero 4054 finds itself a good home in the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar. The timepieces will sport 48mm wide cases in that beautiful old pilot watch style based on an original vintage Zenith pilot watch and airplane instrument clock design. We were able to get a sneak peak at the new Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 watches for 2013 back in January and they look fantastic. While at almost 60mm wide the original was tough to stomach on the wrist for long periods of time. The new more reasonable sizes make sense and the design of the cases and dials is fantastic. This year Zenith will offer the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar in both steel and 18k rose gold.

Legibility and comfort (assuming you like large watches) are the key elements of the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 collection. The dial design is taken from the Zenith Type 20 cockpit clock dial, and is slathered with lume matched to perfectly sized hands on these watches. While we love the modern Zenith Stratos collection of sport watches, the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 range offers a very appealing retro aviation style sport watch as an alternative. Gotta love that giant onion-style crown as well. We will be back later with a hands-on look after meeting with Zenith at Basel. So are the new Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watches up your alley? zenith-watches.com

Tech specs from Zenith:

PILOT MONTRE D’AÉRONEF TYPE 20 ANNUAL CALENDAR
• TRIBUTE TO ZENITH’S AVIATION HISTORY
• NEW 48 MM CASE DIAMETER
• AUTOMATIC EL PRIMERO ANNUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH
• ARABIC NUMERALS ENTIRELY MADE OF SUPERLUMINOVA
• ZENITH FLYING INSTRUMENTS LOGO ON CASE-BACKS

MOVEMENT
El Primero 4054, automatic
Calibre: 13¼ ``` (Diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness: 8.30 mm
Components: 341
Jewels: 29
Frequency: 36,000 VpH – (5 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishings: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern.

FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
1-counter chronograph:
-Central chronograph hand
-60-minute counter at 6 o’clock
Day and month at 3 o’clock
Date indicator at 6 o’clock

CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Titanium case, 18-carat rose gold bezel, lugs, pushers and crown or stainless steel case
Diameter: 48 mm
Diameter opening: 40 mm
Thickness: 15.80 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Zenith Flying Instruments logo
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Matt black
Hour-markers: SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands: Gold-plated rhodium, satin-brushed or black ruthenium

REFERENCES
87.2430.4054/21.C721
Brown alligator leather strap with beige stitching and titanium pin buckle
03.2430.4054/21.C721
Brown alligator leather strap with beige stitching and stainless steel pin buckle

--------------------------------------

Puedes encontrar más material relacionado al presente, en nuestros Blog

Gestión y Dirección de Empresas Familiares http://gestiondeempresasfamiliares.blogspot.com

Gestion de PYMES
http://gestiondepymes.over-blog.com

IWC Portuguese Chronograph Classic Watch

2013-04-16T17:20:00.001-06:00

From a marketing perspective, IWC has been dedicating each year to a particular watch collection. 2013 is all about the Ingenieur, but again, that is just from a marketing and PR perspective. There is more on the IWC plate. Another new release for 2013 is rather important for fans of the Portuguese collection. Updated and arguably more sporty than ever, this is the best Portuguese chronograph watch to date. Called the Portuguese Chronograph Classic, it builds on the design of the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph that was originally debuted in 2012 (hands-on here).

The Portuguese Chronograph Classic isn't meant to replace the standard Portuguese Chronograph, but rather to offer a different flavor. It borrows heavily (including the movement) from the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph, and is a sort of hybrid model between the sportier Yacht Club and the standard Chronograph. Compared to the standard Chronograph, the Classic is larger, contains an in-house made IWC automatic chronograph movement, has a revised dial, higher-end strap, and more aggressively designed case.

In the comparison image above you can see just how different the two Portuguese Chronograph models are, even though at a glance they are very similar. The sportier case is 42mm wide versus 40.1mm wide, further wearing larger due to the thick lugs (note that the Classic is also 2mm thicker). Having said that, the dial on the original Chronograph is liable to appear a bit larger given its thinner bezel. Unlike the lume-filled hands of the Yacht Club, the Classic has similar thick hands, but they instead have a dark colored strip bisecting them. It in an interesting touch.

Both models have similar applied Arabic numeral hour markers and slightly recessed chronograph subdials. One thing lacking on the Classic is a sloped flange ring, which the normal Chronograph does have. The flange ring is a feature I personally like and helps the dial look larger, and of course cleaner. Not having a flange ring allows the bezel to be a bit more burly, and results in a dial that is probably intentionally more cluttered and instrument-like versus formal in style. While the standard Portuguese Chronograph has a monochromatic dial, the Classic has sporty red accents. I am extremely happy to see that the dial does not contain a tachymeter or some other useless scale that no one uses.

For most watch lovers, the biggest difference between the two Portuguese chronograph watches won't be the extra millimeter in size or the different case design, but rather the movement. The Portuguese Chronograph contains an IWC caliber 79350 which is a base Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph which is reworked a bit by IWC. The Portuguese Chronograph Classic however contains the IWC in-house made caliber 89361 automatic chronograph (with a flyback complication). Both watches have a bi-compax subdial array, but the caliber 89361 uses the upper dial to indicate both the minutes and hours (with two hands) - making it possible to measure up to 12 hours versus 30 minutes. It is true that the base 7750 is able to measure 12 hours, but IWC removes the hour counter for style purposes for these watches. Also, the Chronograph Classic has a date window, while the standard Chronograph has the date feature not visible on the dial. The caliber 89361 also has a longer power reserve of 68 hours.

From a style perspective there is an argument to be made about each of the dials, but collectors will no doubt enjoy the extra functionality of the Classic version of the Portuguese Chronograph. At launch there will be four versions of the new Portuguese available. Either steel or 18k red gold with a silver-plated or ardoise dial. Each comes with a case-fitted Santoni alligator strap. Really a solid collection, and certainly something to consider if you've been eying a Portuguese for a while. Prices for the steel Portuguese Chronograph Classic in steel is $13,000 (versus $7,900 for the Portuguese Chronograph), and $24,200 in 18k red gold (versus $16,400). iwc.com

Features

Mechanical chronograph movement
Self-winding
68-hour power reserve when fully wound
Date display
Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
Hour and minute counters combined at 12 o’clock
Flyback function
Small hacking seconds
See-through sapphire-glass back

Movement

Calibre: 89361
Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 38
Power Reserve: 68 h
Winding: automatic

Watch

Materials: Ref. IW390402: 18-carat red gold case, silver-plated dial, dark brown Santoni alligator leather strap, pin buckle in 18-carat red gold
Ref. IW390405: 18-carat red gold case, slate-coloured dial, black Santoni alligator leather strap, pin buckle in 18-carat red gold
Ref. IW390404: stainless-steel case, slate-coloured dial, black Santoni alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
Ref. IW390403: stainless-steel case, silver-plated dial, black Santoni alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: See-through sapphire glass
Water resistance: 3 bar
Diameter: 42 mm
Case height: 14.5 mm

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon Asymétrique

2013-04-15T10:44:00.001-06:00

Greubel Forsey has just revealed the new Double Tourbillon Asymétrique, a reinterpretation of the original Greubel Forsey double axis tourbillon. This is based on the Double Tourbillon 30°, but with an asymmetric case to accommodate the tourbillon at eight o'clock.

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon Asymétrique in white gold

Nearly ten years after the symmetrical Double Tourbillon 30° of 2004 (a version of which won the Concours de Chronométrie 2011), Greubel Forsey has revamped the movement to create the Double Tourbillon Asymétrique, which like all Greubel Forsey watches is marvellous, beautiful and expensive.

As with the original, the tourbillon remains a double axis tourbillon, with twin tourbillon carriages rotating at different speeds on separate planes: a one-minute rotation of the inner carriage and a four-minute revolution of the outer cage. But the outermost cage has be inverted for the Double Tourbillon Asymétrique.

The case is 43.5 mm wide with a curved sapphire window in the case side at eight o'clock, which provides a peek at the tourbillon carriages as they rotate.

At two o'clock is the power reserve indicator which has a rotating disc and fixed arrow, while at six o'clock is the seconds display.

Power reserve display

The movement is of course finished in the inimitable Greubel Forsey style, with frosted bridges and gold chatons.

This is a limited edition of 11 pieces each in white or red gold. The white gold version has a grey and black dial reminiscent of the Double Balancier 35° launched at SIHH 2013.

The retail price is CHF490,000 before taxes, which is equivalent to about USD527,000.

Best from Mega Relojes

2013-04-13T09:03:00.001-06:00

Welcome to the very first edition of aBlogtoWatch’s twice a month round up special. Two times a month, I round up the best watch articles and reviews from aBlogtoWatch and from around the internet for your reading pleasure. Here are my picks for the first half of April.

1. Bell & Ross Aviation Instrument Watches 2013

For the past couple of years, Bell & Ross has released a couple of aviation-themed watches based on their signature BR01 case, and this year is no different. 2013 will see three new aviation-themed watches. The three new watches are named Airspeed, Heading Indicator and Climb, and their names are a good indication of which cockpit dial provided the inspiration for the design. Powering these watches are ETA movements.

Although these watches are not the first word in legibility - especially the Heading Indicator - they stay true to Bell & Ross’ older aviation-themed watches such as last year’s Altimeter and the older Radar. All in all, these watches cement Bell & Ross’ reputation for making uniquely-designed aviation-inspired timepieces.

Source: http://www.ablogtowatch.com/bell-ross-br-01-aviation-instrument-watches-for-2013/

2. Top 10 Living Legend Watches To Own

To some buyers and collectors, the provenance of a watch, meaning its origin and history, is important. If you are such a person, Ariel has compiled a list of ten such watches that are worth owning. To make the list, a watch must have history and still be made today. And to be absolutely clear, this list is by no means exhaustive, but for readers who are perhaps considering their first serious watch purchase, maybe this list could help point you in the right direction.

Source: http://www.ablogtowatch.com/top-10-living-legend-watches-to-own/

3. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Platinum Watch Review

Since its resurrection in the 90s, A. Lange & Söhne has made a reputation for itself by producing some of the most pretty and exquisitely-finished watches. The level and standard of finishing on its watches, dial and movement alike, is easily amongst the world’s best. And earlier this month, we featured a review of their exceptionally well-crafted Saxonia Annual Calendar in platinum. Well worth checking out if you appreciate fine craftsmanship.

Source: http://www.ablogtowatch.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-annual-calendar-platinum-watch-review/

4. Rebellion T-1000 Gotham Watch

In the world of haute horology, you have your classics like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, and then you have wacky brands like Rebellion. The Rebellion T-1000 Gotham gets its name from its 1000 hours long power reserve and Gotham City-inspired dark color scheme. Time is told off two belts, not unlike the Devon Tread One; however, unlike the Devon Tread One, the Rebellion T-1000 is completely mechanical and therefore costs considerably more too.

Source: http://www.ablogtowatch.com/rebellion-t-1000-gotham-watch/

5. Ressence Type 3 Liquid-Filled Watch Hands-On

The Ressence Type 3 is a very unusual watch both in terms of design and movement. The entire dial is bathed in liquid so that the indications appear to be melded into the sapphire crystal. Additionally, there are no actual hands on the dial. The entire dial is made up of numerous sub-dials and the hands are actually painted on the sub-dial itself. Furthermore, the sub-dials are not fixed, rather they move and as they do, they indicate the time. The best way to see how this really interesting watch works is to check out our hands-on on the original Ressence watch here .

Source: http://www.ablogtowatch.com/ressence-type-3-liquid-filled-watch-hands-on-2/

Concord Announces New C1 Chronograph Watch

2013-04-13T08:55:00.001-06:00

Concord has updated their C1 Chronograph range with a new look for 2013, and let's just say it looks... familiar. The new C1 retains the same 44mm footprint as the past models but the design as been massaged to be a bit more reserved, now featuring a slimmer crown, improved legibility, and a more ergonomic and curved case shape.

The C1 is powered by Concord's A07 movement which is based on the ETA Valgranges A07.211, a 25 jewel automatic movement with chrono seconds, sub dials for both 30 minutes and 12 hours and a date display - think of it as a Valjoux 7750 for larger watches. The C1's crystal is sapphire and the bezel is made from either titanium or ceramic, depending on the specific model.

If you only casually glanced at the photos, would you have guessed Concord? Me neither, as the overall design is distinctively that of an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. While I would agree with Concord that this new C1 is more attractive than the previous generation, that is because it looks like an arguably more attractive (and more famous) family of watches. From the large case size, to the octagonal bezel and textured dial design, the similarities are definitely noteworthy. Concord has yet to announce a price for the new C1 but plans on an official launch at BaselWorld this April.

Concord, a brand known for their eccentric designs, seems to have made an odd choice with this new C1. This reserved design is almost an autopilot move for a brand that brought us watches like the insane C1 Quantum Gravity, the very cool C1 BlackSpider LE, or even the previous generation C1 chronographs with their more boisterous and outgoing appeal. Like Lamborghini's cars and supersonic spy planes, some things are supposed to be crazy looking, it's a big part of what makes them cool. Here's hoping that this new C1 design is not indicative of a new direction for the entire C1 line, we like our Concord to be a bit less reserved, a bit more wild.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GoodPlanet GMT Watch

2013-04-11T09:37:00.001-06:00

The long anticipated new Omega Planet Ocean GMT is here for 2013. Before settling into being a major part of the Seamaster Planet Ocean collection, Omega has debuted the Planet Ocean GoodPlanet GMT, as part of their collaborated efforts with the Good Planet Foundation environmentalist initiative. The new GMT watch is being launched in tandem with the release of the "Planet Ocean" movie.

We were there in back in 2011 when Omega announced its partnership with the GoodPlanet Foundation and director Yann Arthus-Bertrand to produce the movie, which is being rolled out now. You'll probably be able to see the Planet Ocean movie soon. Allow me to point out that the name of the ocean-preservation themed movie is quite fitting!

While unconfirmed at this point, we anticipate that this lovely blue and orange version of the Planet Ocean GMT is just one of a few Planet Ocean GMT models that will be released soon. This colorful version is probably the most eye-catching and helps keep focus on the novel nature of the watch. Though experience has told us that Omega sells most of its Seamaster Planet Ocean models with black dials on full steel bracelets.

A very interesting aspect of the Planet Ocean GMT is the size. Rather than produce the watch with one of the existing case sizes, Omega offers a new middle-size for the Seamaster Planet Ocean with the GMT. The standard Planet Ocean three-hand is available in a 42mm or 45.5mm wide case. The Chronograph is available in the larger 45.5mm wide case. For 2013 the Plant Ocean GMT comes in a 43.5mm wide case, only in steel. It is more than likely that titanium and gold versions will soon follow. The mid-size is a good addition to the family.

The steel case has a helium release valve and it water resistant to 600 meters. Instead of a uni-direction diver's style rotating bezel, the GMT has a bi-direction 24 hour scale bezel that is not only a scale for the 24 hour hand, but can also serve as a third time zone indicator. Unfortunately, the bezel is not in ceramic or with Omega's famous Liquidmetal. Rather it is a lacquered bezel in blue and orange, and hopefully Omega will eventually offer a ceramic or Liquidmetal version of the GMT bezel.

Inside the watch is the Omega in-house made caliber 8605 automatic Co-Axial movement that uses a silicon balance spring. This essentially the Omega 8500 movement with a GMT complication. You can see the movement (always a stunner) through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback window. The movement has a power reserve of 60 hours.

The Omega caliber 8605 is most well-known for being in the Omega Aqua Terra GMT, a more formal Seamaster model. The Planet Ocean is larger and also features a full-sized GMT hand, which many fans have been asking for. The dial of course is slathered in SuperLumiNova. Darkness legibility for Planet Ocean models is always outstanding. Omega will further offer the Seamaster Planet Ocean GoodPlanet GMT on a steel bracelet (ref. 232.30.44.22.03.001), or on a blue rubber strap with deployant clasp (ref. 232.32.44.22.03.001).

Omega's many Planet Ocean fans are going to be happy with the addition of a GMT version of their favorite watch to the collection. Omega will likely release more versions of the watch soon, and ideally supplement the steel version with a titanium model, and hopefully add a ceramic or Liquidmetal bezel. No pricing yet, but expect the GMT to be priced somewhere between the three-hand and chronograph versions of the Planet Ocean. omegawatches.com

Kobe Bryant’s New Hublot Watch

2013-04-11T09:31:00.001-06:00

When I checked a few days ago I learned that Kobe Bryant has over 15 million fans on his Facebook page. That is a ton of people that Hublot just earned access to in their recent acquisition of Mr. Bryant as their newest mega-popular athlete brand ambassador. I covered that story more here on Forbes. Here on aBlogtoWatch I'd like to cover the limited edition watch (at least the first one) Hublot has produced for Kobe, unsurprisingly named the "King Power Black Mamba." I should remind you that as of 2013, Hublot is also the official timekeeper of the LA Lakers.

Here in Los Angeles I was afforded the opportunity to meet Kobe for a bit while Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe showed the sharply dressed Lakers MVP around the brand's Beverly Hills boutique off Rodeo. Our party waited eagerly for Kobe's arrival. Someone mentioned "we have him for about 20 minutes." Kobe's personal watches aren't done yet. The two King Power Black Mamba watches are prototypes, but he and his entourage will likely get Hublot-ed out with timepieces galore helping to marry the Swiss watch brand with the basketball star turned lifestyle icon brand. Unlike any other luxury brand, Hublot has successfully captured the world of sports, especially in the US, in a big way.

Meeting Kobe under the horological circumstances was quite interesting as Mr. Bryant isn't exactly new to the high-end watch business. He was involved in a start-up watch brand a few years ago which actually partnered with Kobe to produce a line of Black Mamba watches. The brand was a favorite of mine and I was sad to see them go - it was Nubeo. The financial crisis killed them, and it is possible they will resurface one day. That won't include their relationship with Kobe. Through conjecture I learned that Kobe more than likely lost money in the deal. And as friendly as he is - with his collected and polished social coolness - the "Nubeo situation" is a sore topic. I didn't press the topic as others did. No matter, there is a new Black Mamba watch in town.

Interestingly enough, the new and old Black Mamba watches (Bryant's court nickname) are priced similarly. That is likely just a coincidence, as this limited edition King Power is priced on par with similarly configured models. The 48mm wide case is in mostly matte black ceramic, with titanium, and a slew of other materials that go in to Hublot's "Fusion" construction. The first thing that I noticed about the watch was the strap - black python. Not exactly actual African Black Mamba snakeskin - but python is more than likely better. The smooth scales offer an interesting look that is rare (to say the least) for watch straps. Under the strap is a customary Hublot rubber liner that makes it more comfortable (and helps it last much longer).

The dial itself is a predictable homage to Kobe and the Lakers. The purple and gold (versus yellow) accents honor LA's [more popular] basketball team, and Kobe's "24" jersey number sits at the bottom of the dial over 6 o'clock. On the back of the watch over the exhibition caseback window is a print of Kobe's signature. One of the more unique elements of the design is a black snake figurine placed into the dial that is wrapped around the subdial. It is almost easy to miss at first glance, but is charmingly (or cheesily) present complete with gold-colored forked serpentine tongue.

Hublot includes a feature on the watch first seen in the Big Bang Ferrari watches from last year. That is the new locking crown system. Similar to what is used on some Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor watches, rather than having a screw-down crown, it has a locked and unlocked position. Inside the watch is the Hublot caliber HUB 4248 automatic chronograph movement. This movement has a centrally mounted 48 minute chronograph, subsidiary seconds dial, and the date. It offers an acceptable feature set, while also providing a good view of the movement through the dial. 48 minutes of course is the length of a basketball game.

Kobe seems to genuinely like the watch though it will be a bit more time before he is well-acquainted with the brand. As Hublot prefers to do, at some point in the future, Kobe will no doubt make his way to Nyon to check out the growing Hublot manufacture. Expect to see the limited edition of 250 pieces King Power Black Mamba watch in stores soon, as well as Kobe's persona in some Hublot advertising. Price for the piece will be around $25,000. hublot.com

TECHNICAL DETAILS - Hublot King Power Black Mamba
Reference 748.CI.1119.PR.KOB13
Series Limited series of 250 pieces numbered
Case: “King Power”, diameter 48 mm, in micro-blasted black ceramic
Bezel: Black micro-blasted ceramic and micro-blasted titanium,6 black PVD H-shaped relief titanium screws
Crystal: Sapphire with interior/exterior anti-reflective treatment, Purple number indication
Bezel: lug Black composite resin
Lateral inserts: Black composite resin
Crown: Black PVD titanium with Hublot logo 3N Gold 18K, Black rubber insert
Push-buttons 2H in black PVD titanium, rectangular in polished steel, Black rubber inserts, 4H in titanium satin-finished and “reset” engraved
Case-back: Open micro-blasted black ceramic with Kobe Bryant signature on sapphire
Dial: Sapphire dial with 4 zones of 12 minutes in black and gold, Indexes in satin-finished 3N Gold plated with black SuperluminovaTM, ‘’Snake’’ appliqué polished black PVD
Hands: Satin-finished 3N Gold plated hands with black SuperLuminova™
Movement: HUB 4248 Mechanical self-winding
Chronograph with central 48’ counter
Date: Trapezoidal window at 4.30
Components: 249
Jewels: 28
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,600 Alt/h)
Power reserve: 42 hours
Water resistance: 10 ATM or approximately 100 metres
Strap Python snake strap sewed on black rubber
Clasp Deployant buckle clasp in micro-blasted black PVD titanium and ceramic

Ressence Type 3 Liquid-Filled Watch

2013-04-09T14:59:00.001-06:00

When I last saw Benoit Mintiens, the Belgian founder of watch brand Ressence, he was excitedly showing me the prototype of the Type 3 watch. I was pretty darn impressed. Boutique brand Ressence is among the few watch brands out there (large or small) that I'd consider as benefiting from my hard-earned watch buying money. Benoit is just that type of outside-the-box thinking innovator that I like to personally support. So let's see how Ressence built on their core concept with a crown-free, liquid-filled watch.

Before getting all ga-ga over the Type 3, I recommend you check out the original Ressence watch (hands-on) here. You'll see a few things which are the same, and a few which are different. Ressence pretty much hates depth in a dial. For Benoit, life is most beautiful in some flat reality where all things are "level." For the Type 3 he takes this concept even further to not only make his watches look like they have animated hands, but to also make the dial almost meld in with the sapphire crystal, which also more or less doubles as the case.

Filling the case with liquid, some type of synthetic oil I presume, creates the appearance of a solid, no refraction mass. Everything blends together offering a sensational viewing experience. I got to see this in the prototypes, and in the final Type 3 version the effect will be even better. Note that the prototypes seen were later updated with the final dial designs.

Oddly enough Ressence does not mention how water resistant the watch is. You'd think that would be one of the first things to brag about in a totally sealed watch with liquid already inside of it. Some of the world's top diving watches contain liquid so that the chambers aren't filled with pressurized air. I guess I am saying, when are we gonna see a Ressence dive watch? The Type 3 case is 44mm wide in titanium and sapphire crystal. The dial elements are also in titanium and DLC coated black. It isn't clear whether or not the brand will build the gray-colored dial as well as the cool black version.

The way Ressence watches work sort of needs to be seen to be appreciated. The flat dial has a series of dials that all move together. The dial is constantly moving, and it also revolves around itself. That means the hour indicator dial moves around the entire larger dial. It sounds insane to be honest, but it looks really cool in person, and is more legible than you may think. So again, there are no actual hands, but rather dials with hands printed on them. The hands and other indicators are all coated with SuperLumiNova for night viewing. The black and white look makes for a very appealing high-contrast display. Ressence decided to throw in a little orange color for good measure as well.

Technically this watch is very interesting. It starts with a base Swiss automatic, that is partially deconstructed and then uses a module system developed by Ressence. The automatic movement features the time with separate indicators for the hours, minutes, and seconds, as well as the day and date. I like the clever day of the week indicator that uses just bars, but is easy to read given the special markers for Saturday and Sunday. The date is shown on the periphery of the dial.

Without a crown, the only way possible to adjust the watch is via the case back. This isn't wholly a new concept, but Ressence makes it interesting. The case back turns and features a series of function quadrants. You can even seen the automatic rotor moving back there. We will probably get a video soon to show you how it works. The concept is interesting to say the least... and I have to say that I don't really miss having a crown at all in the design.

The look of the Ressence Type 3 alone makes it a really remarkable watch, but how it all works together to function properly and actually be useful adds to the appeal. I think this is going to be one of the top new indy timepieces for 2013 and I very much look forward to stealing one from Benoit. Price will be $34,000 USD. ressence.eu

Type 3 Technical Specifications
FUNCTIONS: Date, Days, Hours, Minutes, Seconds ( 360’’ )
ARCHITECTURE: Sandwich construction with titanium membrane between movement and fluid-filled indication module.
SYSTEM: Information transmitted from movement to indications by micro-magnetic fields .
CASE: Sapphire crystal and grade 5 titanium
DIMENSIONS: 44mm x 15mm
CRYSTALS: Domed sapphire crystals top and bottom with anti-reflective coating on both sides
INDICATIONS: Convex dial and indications (radius: 125mm) in grade 5 titanium with black DLC.
Indications engraved and filled with white, grey and orange Super-LumiNova, glowing green and orange in the dark.
MODULE: Patented system invented and developed by Ressence.
Independent module comprising 28 gears and 57 jewels
Grade 5 titanium plate integrating three eccentric biaxial satellites inclined at 3° and 4,75° with a date ring around the circumference.
Shock absorber system.
The module and indications are completely immersed in fluid.
A thermal valve compensates for expansion/contraction of the fluid
MOVEMENT: Automatic winding movement, 25 jewels
Power reserve 36 hours,
Balance frequency 28.800 A/h
Visible ring-shape winding rotor
COMPONENTS: Total of 407 components.
WEIGHT: 175 grams.

Bell & Ross BR01-93 GMT Watch Review

2013-04-09T14:55:00.001-06:00

When the original Bell & Ross BR01 watch collection debuted about a decade ago, it was a sort of manly dress watch and there was nothing like this BR01-93 GMT model. There were a few versions, but many of them focused on the piece's inherent luxury status and ability to not look like "just" a 46mm wide wrist instrument. As the collection evolved, Bell & Ross increasingly turned the BR01 into just that - a military-inspired instrument-style wrist watch without too much polish, and lots of matte surfaces. There are exceptions of course, but from a sales perspective I think that is what ended up being best for the line.

Bell & Ross' challenge is to keep the BR01 collection fresh, while at the same time maintaining the look and feel of the genre (i.e. the design DNA of the BR01 family). That is a tough task for sure. Only brands like Rolex and Omega are able to sell the same watch year after year with little or no changes. Today the BR01 is still important for the brand, and my hope is that Bell & Ross will update the BR01 with minor upgrades and tweaks and keep it as an icon. Until they get to that point, the consumer is presented with a relatively large range of limited and non-limited BR01 (and its smaller BR03 sibling) to choose from. One of my favorites is this BR01-93 GMT watch originally released a few years ago.

It might be easy to simply pronounce that this BR01 model is like all the rest, but with a GMT hand. That isn't quite true, but it isn't totally off. The case and profile of the GMT is identical to that of the BR01-92 (three-hand automatic). However, the BR01-93 has a different movement, extra spice of color, and a flange ring. Are these different enough to merit a new addition to your collection as well as the price premium? For your reference, you can see our review of the Bell & Ross BR01-92 Carbon watch here - probably the most basic of all the BR01 models, designed for elegant simplicity.

In order to keep its dial simple, the BR01 Carbon doesn't even include a date,. That for me is the "base" BR01 design, and everything else just sort of adds on to it. This GMT also has the 46mm wide case in matte black PVD, that is actually quite thin at about 10mm thick and is water resistant to 100 meters. The sapphire crystal is double AR coated. Because case size is always an issue, I will once again reiterate that the flat style square case of the BR01 collection is actually very comfortable. It sits well on the wrist, mostly because of how close the lugs and strap are to the bottom of the case. If you are terribly concerned about its size then I recommend you look at a smaller 42mm wide BR03 model. However, there is no direct GMT analog such as this model in the BR03 collection.

For me, the most important design difference of the GMT compared to most other BR01 watches is the addition of the flange ring. This diagonally aligned internal ring around the dial is used as a place for the 24 hour markers for the the second time zone GMT hand. It also visually increases the size and style of the dial, making the BR01-93 look noticeably different and with a more expansive face. I find this to be very flattering to the overall design and a key benefit of the watch. The dial isn't actually larger, but it just appears that way. Because the flat part of the dial is a bit smaller, another benefit (though minor to most people) is that the hour and minute hands are better suited to the proportions of the hour markers. That means that finally, the minute hand completely covers the hour markers rather than just cover them halfway. Again, a tiny difference, but seeing it really improves the overall presentation of the core BR01 dial design.

Then there is the matter of the large orange GMT hand. Clearly inspired by the orange GMT hand on some older and current 42mm Rolex Explorer II timepieces, this highly functional element is both legible and adds a welcome dash of color. Where I have found that adding blue or red doesn't accent the BR01 dial that well, adding orange or yellow looks very good. The middle section of the GMT hand is painted with lume for darkness viewing. Unfortunately, the full 24 hour indicator scale is not lume-painted.

Inside the Bell & Ross BR01-93 GMT watch is a Swiss ETA 2893 automatic GMT movement, that also includes the date (with a window located between 4 and 5 o'clock on the dial). The watch comes with a comfortable rubber strap and the price is refreshingly "round." People continue to appreciate Bell & Ross watches but many also complain about their prices. There is an inherent simplicity to them that makes people feel as though they are overpriced. This, in my opinion of course, is an issue with all luxury watches, but isn't disproportionate with Bell & Ross. The effort is in the materials and minor details, and if Bell & Ross watches were so easy to duplicate with cheaper prices, then I am still waiting for someone to do so successfully. I've seen several Bell & Ross fakes, and to my trained eyes they are embarrassing. Not to mention that fakes break with haste.

I've taken apart a BR01 case before, and you'd be surprised how complicated it is to access the movement. The one-piece case has the bezel lift out and with it the case and dial. All the screws on the case are totally functional, and it is a delicate item that is much more sophisticated than some basic case where a movement pops into the back. I am not trying to defend Bell & Ross or the pricing of luxury brands which of course is higher than it "needs to be," but I am merely pointing out facts that others tend to not be aware of when complaining that simple looking high-end timepieces inherently require less detail than more complex looking timepieces. Moving on, this again is one of my favorite BR01 collection pieces and if you are looking for the right model in the collection, this could be for you. Price for the Bell & Ross BR01-93 GMT watch is $5,000. bellross.com

Necessary Data
>Brand: Bell & Ross
>Model: BR01-93 GMT
>Price: $5,000
>Size: 46mm wide
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: Someone who wants a bold looking high-end military-style watch that doesn't scream luxury and enjoys a dash of color.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Difficult to read GMT time in the dark
>Best characteristic of watch: One of the best looking BR01 watches today remaining a standout model in the collection

Konstantin Chaykin Cinema Watch

2013-04-09T13:17:00.001-06:00

New for 2013, our favorite Russian watch maker Konstantin Chaykin will release a rather amazing new timepiece called the Cinema. The piece is a poetic nod to the early era of film making and specifically honors the inventor of the zoopraxiscope, Eadweard Muybridge. The zoopraxiscope is credited as being probably the world's first movie projector, and was produced around 1879. Using a wheel with a series of pictures on it, the machine was able to project an animated image. This complication is actually built into the Cinema watch, being Konstantin Chaykin's very first attempt at such a feature, and the only one that we are aware of in a wrist watch.

In the video below you can see a demonstration of the animation complication in action. Activating the left crown causes a disc to spin rapidly under the dial in what appears to be a magnified window. The illusion creates an animation of a man riding a galloping horse. The subject is no coincidence, as the original mechanism was apparently first used to test an interesting theory people had in the late 19th century. While I am not sure if the story is true, the motion picture is said to have been developed to settle a scientific theory about horses. Some people said that it was impossible for all of a horse's feet to be off the ground at the same time while it was running. Other people rebuked the theory saying that when a horse was running there were quick moments where none of its feet were planted on the ground. Without a plausible way to test the theory, it was decided that they would attempt to take a series of rapid photographs while a horse was running and study them.

The rapid series of photographs, when viewed together created what we now think of as an animated movie. Also, the theory that a horse cannot run with all of its feet off the ground was disproven, as the images clearly showed that while running, a horse could appear to be flying. At least that is the story. Nevertheless, it is widely accepted that one of the first projected movie camera animations was of a horse and rider.

Probably the most beautiful thing about the Cinema watch is that it is designed to resemble old movie cameras and projectors. Konstantin Chaykin squared the case with a series of toothed-edges mixing polished metal with black surfaces to recreate that vintage camera feel with its various knobs, adjustors, and no-slip surfaces. True to the concept, the Cinema case is in steel mixed with enamel as well as brass. The case is 37mm wide by 47mm tall, and just 12.2mm thick.

Inside the Cinema watch is a totally in-house made Konstantin Chaykin caliber KCM 01-1 manually wound mechanical movement. The movement has a power reserve of 48 hours and offers just the time and the animation complication. The galloping horse animation lasts for 20 seconds and is comprised of a disc with 12 images on it. Both the time and the animation function have separate mainspring barrels. You wind each of them by turning the crown in a different direction.

Aside from animation window and dial for the time, most of the face is decorated with a black clos du Paris texture. While ornate, the Cinema watch is still a masculine design and doesn't appear too "themed," aside from the large dedication plaque to Eadweard Muybridge right on the bezel. Another very interesting item just as we would expect from Konstantin Chaykin, and we look forward to seeing the Cinema watch in person soon. Price will be around 50,000 Euros. konstantin-chaykin.com

Technical Specifications:
Calibre: KCM 01-0
Dimensions (mm): 32*42,5*7,5
Materials: steel, brass, enamel
Escapement: anchor
Jewels: 31
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Animation Power Reserve: 20 seconds
Animation Speed: 1 cycle per second (12 images)
Vibration: 21 600 v.p.h
Functions:
- hours;
- minutes;
- animation.

Case:
Dimensions (mm): 37*47*12,2
Materials: stainless steel

Dial:
Stainless steel, black lacquer, guilloché,

Strap: alligator skin

MB&F HM3 MegaWind Watch

2013-04-09T12:03:00.001-06:00

This new watch from MB&F is unique among a unique brand of watches. It is the first ever piece that is meant to be an improvement on an existing model. Not a limited edition or something trying to "step it up a notch," The HM3 MegaWind is the new generation HM3 that improves on and replaces the first generation Horological Machine No. 3 collection. Normally, MB&F releases two types of watches. New watch collections and special or limited versions of those collections. For example, there was the HM3 and then the HM3 Frog. Those were distinct models, but weren't meant to replace one another. The MegaWind is the new HM3 and means that MB&F may just be finding some product permanence.

We were lucky to have both the original HM3 and the HM3 MegaWind handy for this article. That way we could compare the two and illustrate what the MegaWind is meant to be. In a nutshell, the HM3 MegaWind is meant to be easier to read, more aesthetically pleasing, and in a watch, even more "HM3" than the original model.

The "MegaWind" name comes from the larger battle axe-style automatic rotor visible through the front-facing sapphire crystal. By removing the date disc of the original HM3, MB&F was able to include a larger rotor (which is now three pieces versus one piece). This visually expands the movement compartment, though it is actually the same size as the original. Not that there was a winding problem with the original, but technically speaking a larger (and heavier) rotor means the watch should wind more easily while worn on the wrist.

These HM3 MegaWind pieces that you see are pre-production prototypes, so a few things will be polished up for the final retail models. Oh, and the straps on these pieces are not real alligator. The final ones will have real alligator of course, but brands often do this because alligator skin is a tricky material to travel with, especially in the US. I've always found that ironic because most watch straps are made from Louisiana alligator skin - not something from an exotic place where there is a real fear of harming an endangered species.

According to MB&F, the HM3 has been their top-selling model collection of all time. The original HM3 (which I reviewed here), spawned a number of limited edition pieces including several versions of the HM3 Frog (that replaced the two time cones with eye-like spheres) and very special pieces such as the HM3 JwlryMachine. Originally, the HM3 arrived in two forms based on the orientation of the case. There was the HM3 Starcruiser with the case orientation that we typically know today, but there was also the HM3 Sidewinder that was similar but with the case mounted on its side.

The more vertical orientation of the Starcruiser-style watch was preferred for models moving forward. One of the interesting yet minor new parts of the HM3 MegaWind are the lugs. The original had lugs with screws at the end, which MB&F decided to redesign. The lugs are more integrated now and allow for the strap to look more pleasant sitting on the case. Honestly, it is something you wouldn't notice right away, but when the new lugs are pointed out to you it is an obvious improvement.

Probably the most important element of the HM3 MegaWind is how you tell the time - this is where the most obvious "improvement" comes into play. The original HM3 was typically criticized for being hard to read... and it was. The HM3 MegaWind takes some production cues from the Frog to help retain the conical time tower design of the HM3, but improves it. Thus, the two cones are taller, totally wrapped in sapphire crystal, and now finally fully able to be read from the side or from the top.

There is an arrow marker on the top of the cone that is used to read the time. One is for the hours and one is for the minutes. The original HM3 had just part of the cone wrapped in sapphire crystal, and reading the time from the top was rather difficult. The numerals are also applied with luminant for night viewing. An overall experience that involves more viewing area for the numerals and the wider viewing area allows the MegaWind to be a superior time-telling device.

Inside the HM3 MegaWind is the same Girard-Perregaux based automatic movement with the obvious modifications for the new hour and minute cones and lack of date indicator. The case is the same size and still seems to fit well and comfortably despite the unique cones that always seem to be looking at you. At launch, MB&F will offer the HM3 MegaWind in either 18k white gold or 18k red gold. The back plate of the case is once again in titanium.

Personally I like the new MegaWind more than the original HM3 merely because I appreciate the improvements and upgrades. It isn't per se a better watch, but rather an evolution. And in this industry that is something I totally appreciate. We take watch collections that evolve for granted sometimes. Major brands that produce the Submariner, Speedmaster, or Aquatimer have been evolving them over the years, ideally making them better and better. But such product evolution and retention is rare amongst the boutique firms such as MB&F. So their willingness to take something good and popular, and make it better is a great sign. Price wise, the HM3 MegaWind will be priced exactly the same as the outgoing HM3. For the first year in 2013 they will produce just 40 pieces, and while the HM3 MegaWind is not limited, it will experience a limited production of pieces being made each year. Price (the same as the outgoing HM3) is $92,000. mbandf.com

Pierre DeRoche Watches Interview With Founder Pierre Dubois

2013-04-07T12:28:00.001-06:00

We've written before about Pierre DeRoche, high-end watchmakers with a fantastic collection of unusual complications. Check this out all those hands.

Six, yes six, retrograde second hands. Over the top? Amazing? Both?

The men's version:

Their site has a very good animation of the mechanism that's well worth checking out. It looks to be mesmerizing.

One more, from the SplitRock collection:

Now that I've hopefully piqued your interest, please allow me to introduce the CEO, Pierre Dubois, who graciously agreed to an interview [Ed. note a few years ago we also did a trip to their manufacture].

ABTW: So what's the story of how Dubois-Dupraz came to start a watchmaking company?

Dubois Dépraz, the family company, has never decided to start a watch company! After 14 years spent at Audemars Piguet, I have decided to set up my own brand. Based on my financial personal background (Audemars Piguet CFO), based on my global experience in the watch industry and business and, of course, based on the potential technical support to be provided by DD, I have asked my brothers if they were interested in developing exclusive movements for me. They have been enthusiastic, then I set up Pierre DeRoche (PDR). Dubois Depraz’s policy is to serve the brands, not to be “the” brand. They do it for Pierre DeRoche as they do for many other brands, probably with a bit more emotion than in the usual relations for a supplier-customer!

ABTW: You have some really amazing movements, such as the Royal Retro and GrandCliff. Are these unique to Pierre DeRoche or have other marques licensed them as well? How were they envisioned and developed?

If I may put aside the ShinyPebbles collection and its quartz movements, all our mechanical movements have been developed by DD exclusively for PDR. None of them have been licensed to other brands. Our current strategy is not to license our developments. In 2013 we have slightly “redesigned” our strategy. On one hand we are keeping on developing exclusive complications (one novelty to be unveiled at Baselworld); on the other hand we are developing a new collection with non-exclusive movements. The goal of this new collection, called GrandCliff Pure, is to match the best as possible the Chinese expectations. But all the watches will keep minimum one small complication. The 1st watch of this collection will be unveiled at Baselworld as well.

ABTW: As CEO, what is your favorite watch and why? Do you have one you wear everyday?

Year after year my preferred watch is the last one we launch! Usually I wear the new models during several months in order to have my own feedback as a wearer, and also to collect other people (customers, friends, journalists. ..) comments as well. As you know I have also a sport background and I wear probably more frequently the TNT models rather than the other collections. Nevertheless the SplitRock collection and its amazing concentric chronograph will remain one of my preferred watches due to the fact that it’s the 1st movement we have developed (for launching the brand).

ABTW: Those sapphire bridges are spectacular and excellent for showcasing the works. Do you see more use of sapphire in the future, perhaps even cases like the recent Richard Mille?

Sapphire is a wonderful material. But the cost of manufacturing it in another way than the traditional sapphire round crystal is difficult (and costly). As long you are making a hole in the sapphire or to screw in a sapphire component, the sapphire may break if there is any small defect in the raw material or in the tools used. As a result of that, out of the TNT Royal Retro bridges, out of any dials (such as the TNT BelCanto one), we are not going to use more than this material in the future.

ABTW: Again as CEO, does Pierre DeRoche feel more like a design company or a tech company?

We are basically technically oriented. As far as Pierre DeRoche is concerned, the technique first drives our product developments. Then, after having defined the technical specifications and features of a new complication, we ask our designers to work on the design of the movement. The TNT collection (and the GrandCliff Milady Royal Retro) have no dial. As a result of that, the movement design is essential as well.

ABTW: I am impressed that your prices are public on your website. Do think other Swiss brands will become more transparent about pricing as time goes on? How have customers responded?

Why not provide the retail prices? Today with the internet all the information moves around the world in less than one second. Type any request on a web search engine and you’ll get the price of most of the existing watches. Different professional web portals or mobile applications provide retail prices. PDR has been the 1st brand to do it through its own website and our partners appreciate it a lot. We are transparent and in a similar way, we have never said that we are a manufacture!

ABTW: What sort of production numbers does Pierre DeRoche do, and do you have a limit or goal you can share? Are you aiming for enthusiasts with the menagerie of complications? Or would you like to become the next Rolex?

We sell between 200 and 250 watches/year. But if this number has been pretty stable for two to three years, our average price has increased through the development of the TNT collection among others. We aim to double the production within the next few years by following the strategy we have redesigned (see point 2 above). We are not keen on “nuclear plant” complications, due to the fact that, based on the family background and its 112 years of experience, we consider the reliability and the after sales service as essential. To make a talking piece is nice for communication. But to make it work and to be able to service it within the next 20 years is another story. And we want to be able to write this story! If you look at our 2012 catalogue, you will read several times “Genetically”; PDR makes watches based on the skills and the experience of a fourth generation family story. Nevertheless we always push for making evolution in technique, in the use of materials and in design. Rolex is a benchmark in the development and manufacturing processes. But as far as we are talking about developing new complications or the aesthetic of our watches, we have other benchmarks.

ABTW: What do you feel differentiates you from other brands?

In 9 years (including 2013), starting from a scratch, we have developed 12 different complicated mechanisms with useful and/or fun complications (such as the Royal Retro). Proportionally speaking, we are probably one of the most creative brands. And all these complications have been developed exclusively for us. This differentiation is our strongest USP. Finally, after ten years PDR, remains 100% independent, which is also very important.

ABTW: What would you like our readers to know about Pierre DeRoche?

I would like that your readers look at our watches through another unusual eye! The PDR story is also the story of a couple. Carole and I shared the same values for more than 30 years. We share the same passion for the sport and we've worked together for about nine years. I think that the PDR watches reflect this alchemy, balancing between power and femininity, technic and emotion. pierrederoche.com

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Platinum Watch Review

2013-04-04T10:02:00.001-06:00

As Old Ben Kenobi said while bequeathing to Luke his new lightsaber, “An elegant weapon, for a more civilized age”. Had he been handing over his old man’s wristwatch instead of a futures-past laser sword, a single word need only have been changed to properly describe it. That is, of course, if the timepiece he was handing down was the incredible A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calender with Moonphase in Platinum.

Alas, young Luke got a lightsaber and not a wristwatch – but I did. Thanks to our friends at Lange, I was fortunate to spend some time with this German timepiece over the past week. And while I didn’t lose it (along with my hand) in a brawl with Darth Vader, I did have to give it back. I think that was nearly as painful.

Let’s get this out of the way immediately - the Saxonia is, in short, a masterpiece of modern-classical German wristwatch design. Complementing the existing Saxonia collection is this all-new for 2013 Annual Calendar cased in platinum, released at SIHH this past January. The timepiece has been available in white and rose gold since 2010.

Personally, I am thrilled that precious metals are making a definitive return as casing materials in fine wristwatches. As much a fan as I am of steel sports watches, I’ve had my share over the past decade. It is refreshing to see exquisite timepieces with manufacture movements gussied up properly. I am a big fan of rose gold in particular, but I take issue with white gold, which proves to be incredibly soft and easily damaged. Keeping with the coloring of a polished steel watch, platinum offers an excellent alternative to white gold – and has the added benefit of increased durability.

The round case of the Saxonia measures in at 38.5mm wide by 9.8mm thick, making it a great size for an understated dress piece. The lug design is exquisite – thick and solid, a combination of rounded elements and squared off ends come together in a way only the Germans could pull off. This makes it a comfortable and wearable piece for just about any wrist size.

As with the bulk of Lange’s line, the case back of the Saxonia Annual Calendar is fitted with a sapphire display back highlighting the intricate movement. Comprised of nearly 500 individual parts and 43 jewels, the manufacture movement utilizes an 18k solid gold bidirectional rotor with lever escapement to power the Annual Calendar complications. The movement, Lange Reference L.0851, has a power reserve of nearly 46 hours. Furthermore, Lange includes their patented zero reset mechanism as a component of the movement. When the crown is pulled out, the movement stops, and a series of levers automatically resets the second hand to zero, allowing for precise setting.

My typical distaste for display backs doesn’t factor in here – partially because the movement is so beautifully decorated and adorned, but primarily because the movement fits the case precisely. So many movements – even high end manufactures – fit small movements in oversize cases, but not so with the Saxonia. This is clearly a timepiece built to fit around the movement, and I could watch that Nivarox balance spring do its dance all day.

From a dial standpoint, Lange uses a familiar layout with three subsidiary registers – a monthly calendar at 3, day at 9, and sub-second & moonphase display at 6. Date readout sits directly below 12, with twin windows for the outsize date in traditional Lange fashion. Each of these registers is adjustable from micropushers located at 4, 8, 9, and 10. The dial plate itself is silver tone, which comes alive under the antireflective coating, bathing the dial with a slightly bluish hue in direct light. The hands are polished steel except for the subsidiary seconds register, which is blued, complementing the dial palette brilliantly.

Wearing the Saxonia is a quite simply a joy. Its size and height are minimal, svelte, and comfortable. It fits under shirt cuffs and complements both formal and casual attire with its dial coloring and simple black leather strap. But it's not a watch that you’ll forget you’re wearing – the platinum adds serious heft for a watch this size, and the piece weighs in at 114g (compare that to a steel 42mm IWC Portuguese Automatic, which weighs about 95g).

If I had to direct any criticism towards the piece – and I’m nitpicking here – it would be only that the “Lange” engraving on the Platinum buckle is a bit gaudy on a timepiece that is otherwise so elegant in construction and design. Of course the same engraving is used across the Lange line, and doesn’t seem so out of place on their larger, sportier timepieces.

Again, the Saxonia in platinum is an incredible wristwatch with a beautiful movement, and I would likely go out of my way to find excuses to wear it as often as possible if it were part of my personal collection. Ultimately, it is a piece of art, and if you can swallow the $58,400 price tag, I’d highly recommend considering it as an alternative to the more common luxury brands.

My overall verdict? An elegant timepiece – for a more civilized age. alange-soehne.com

Necessary Data
>Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
>Model: Saxonia Annual Calendar with Moonphase, Platinum
>Price: $58,400
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Forever and ever.
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: Someone with excellent taste in exquisite timepieces willing to go outside the “normal” brand choices. Who has some coin.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Engraved buckle is a little harsh/gaudy. Engraving doesn’t fit with the tone of the timepiece.
>Best characteristic of watch: The case design – slim wearing but heavy. Polished and brushed elements work together brilliantly.

Rebellion T-1000 Gotham Watch

2013-04-04T09:56:00.001-06:00

In debuting the Gotham versions of the T-1000 watches, Rebellion playfully warns to "lock up your daughters." I am not 100% sure what that means, but apparently this watch that looks like a part that fell off of a Transformer is out to get your girls. Mixing a range of science-fiction and comic book themes into one, the Rebellion T-1000 is a combo of un-focused culture masculinity, and the world's longest power reserve mechanical movement.

When the T-1000 came out a few years ago it boasted the world's longest power reserve at 1000 hours. You can see how far they have come with the design of the watch since the original. That is over 40 days of power, and beats the A. Lange & Sohne Lange 31 and the Jacob & Co. Quenttin. The T-1000 (no, sadly not the Terminator fiend) has six mainsprings for the job. They are wound in parallel using a chain system and are specially inclined to maximize precision. Nevertheless, this watch likely has one hell of a torque curve (meaning that the accuracy fluctuates wildly). I don't even want to think how long it will take to wind it by hand. Seriously, if this watch doesn't come with winder to attach to the crown and wind it, I would just say "there goes your lunch break."

Actually, Rebellion has sort of thought of that last part. The rear of the case has a lever-like system than you can use to wind the movement. It apparently generates ten times as much winding power, allowing for relatively speedy winding of the movement. That is pretty cool, except for the fact that you need to take off the watch to wind it in that fashion. "Just cranking up the ol' watch over here."

The linear style movement and roller-based system for telling the time no doubt reminds me of Cabestan. Rebellion doesn't do it quite as nicely, but it works in a sort of more rugged, industrial way. This is not a watch for Batman, or Ironman, or most other heroes. This feels much more like a villain's watch. It is like a tank and a chainsaw got together and decided to try out as a prop for the next Aliens vs. Predator movie (that will no doubt suck except for its props).

The T-1000 Gotham case is 52.2mm wide in either natural or DLC black titanium. The red and black accents are pretty cool. No tourbillon here (probably a good thing), but a nice exposed balance wheel. I applaud Rebellion's (continued) effort in not only making the watch look like something out of a teenage comic book dream, but also building it around a bragging-rights worthy mechanical movement - no matter how utterly impractical it is. A dream or a headache to look at, we get our kicks from stuff like this. The T-1000 Gotham watch will be limited to just 25 pieces total. You even get to choose the color of the movement (red, purple, blue, gold, or black). Price for the Rebellion T-1000 Gotham will be just north of $100,000. rebellion-timepieces.com

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS from Rebellion

The T-1000 Gotham is a limited edition of 25 pieces available in two different combinations of natural and blackened titanium, with a choice of black, gold, red, blue or purple movement.

Case
Material: available in titanium/titanium DLC
Dimensions: 52.2 mm x 47,9 mm x 18,2 mm
Glass: anti-reflective sapphire crystals

Movement: REB T-1000
Proprietary movement manual winding with integrated winding lever
Material: Avional
Color: Choice of black, gold, red, blue, purple
Jewels: 14 ceramic & 22 rubies
Balance: Double hairspring inclined at 39°
Winding system: Patented system of six mainsprings wound in parallel by two chains
Power reserve: 1,000+ hours provided by six (2 x 3) vertical mainspring barrels
Number of components: 693 for the chassis
Balance frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)

Strap and buckle
Black alligator leather with double folding buckle