Winning his first CFDA Designer of the Year award followed by a wonderful Spring/Summer ’12 show meant that all eyes were on Michael Bastian to follow up with even more magic for his first mainline Fall/Winter collection in two years. To spare any suspense he did just that and passed even the highest of expectations. The inspiration for this collection seemed particularly notable, drawing queues from the concept of the “extra men” who escorted their famous dates to the most glamorous parties. These are the men who were chosen for their perfect balance of status and ability to ensure a good party–this was the perfect inspiration for Michael Bastian F/W ’12.

This collection in many ways was in contrast to Bastian’s S/S ’12, focusing on formality and city life rather than the rural ruggedness of the James Dean-inspired collection that showed in September. While that season was a successful one for many reasons, F/W ’12 is the collection Bastian has been working towards since his eponymous label came into being for F/W ’07. This show combined a cultivated understanding of blue-blooded roots come in contact with the downtown scene–interlacing the right UES nods with a bit of 70′s era carefree sexiness that has been constantly developing in Bastian’s most recent seasons.

The focus of this season may have been on dressing up, but many of the strongest pieces were in sportswear. His leather jacket and chalk stripe trousers look was the strongest of the show and the cableknit shawl cardigan over the three-piece suit showed the designer’s ability to bring something that is both novel and comfortable to the often-univentive world of menswear. Shirt collars were difficult to miss as Bastian’s contrast spread collars on both the Silver Fox (above, left) and on model Arthur Kulkov (above, right) were absolutely stunning. While the rounded cutaway collars felt a bit flimsy in comparison, Bastian shows that he is constantly reimagining every detail of the man’s wardrobe.

The Gany by Michael Bastian contrasted the mainline once again by taking a more youthful and decidedly less sex-infused stance, with Bastian seeming to draw a more distinct line between his two collections. But this season for Gant by MB was more mature than S/S ’12 and should be much more attractive to buyers because of it. While the mod inspiration was not executed as romantically as one would have expected from Bastian, this collection appeared to focus more on wearability rather than the lifestyle it portrayed. Pieces like shetland tweed jackets, flannel shirting, and even a navy/red striped rugby reminicient of Bastian’s mainline collection for a few years ago signaled that there will be some pieces that ought to sell out very quickly.

The takeaway from Michael Bastian’s two shows for Fall/Winter ’12 is that he has an acute understanding of his brand. He has built Gant by Michael Bastian and the mainline collection into distinctely different aesthetics, all the while retaining the sense of Bastianness that is key to the success of both. Where the Gant by Michael Bastian group faltered in cohesiveness to inspiration it made up in execution of the individual pieces, perhaps pulling in the reigns after a more outlandish Spring/Summer ’12. Yet the focus must lay on his mainline, just as the focus of the menswear portion of NYFW should lay on Michael Bastian F/W ’12. Perfect execution of a very subtle and intruiging inspiration combined with the interplay between sportswear and tailored goods to leave us with Bastian’s best collection to date. Here’s to Spring/Summer ’13…

The rake is alive and well in Phineas Cole‘s newest collection. At a time when many begin to dress more casually, Phineas seeks to show that even in the spring and summer a man at his best is a man dressed up. Never one to shy away for formality, they continue to reinvent 1920′s and 30′s elegance for a modern generation–going as far as to introduce a new 8×4 double breasted jacket model to their collection. The fantastic silhouette Phineas Cole has built its reputation on continues in their one-button peak lapel Phillip model, creating the cleanest of lines to accentuate the wearer’s contours. It is a jacket that brings confidence when worn, with a natural shoulder and high armhole that allow for the highest range of motion and conform. While recalling a more romantic time of old, there are few questions about the modern applicability of the collection when worn.

While fall and winter have brought some of Phineas’ strongest seasons in years past–full of exploded plaids, shetland tweeds, and buttery flannels–this spring brings equally impressive fabrics like a new wool/silk/linen blend and a high-twist four ply wool that allow for breathability while retaining their formality. The green and purple jackets are the highlights of their more casual side, but the strongest looks in the collection come in the formalwear group. As one might expect, Phineas has always had a knack for creative formalwear and their new 6×2 double breasted shawl dinner jacket proves it. Coming in a black wool/mohair blend as well as a cream gabardine, this is the sort of piece that makes preparing for a formal event that much more enjoyable. Of course, they retain their spot on one-button tuxedo model–one of the best formalwear options on the market–but this new model is the perfect addition to their collection. Enjoy the full collection below…

In some respects Billy Reid has been overshadowed by designers like Michael Bastian, Simon Spurr, and Thom Browne who all launched their eponymous American-based lines around the same time as Mr. Reid. Yet, it’s not exactly fair to compare the successes of Billy Reid to these others by the same metrics. The Louisiana-born designer has received plenty of attention–collaborations with Levi’s & K-Swiss, awards including GQ’s Best New Menswear Designer in 2010, and a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Prize–but those attracted by the glamour of fashion are more easily seduced by Thom Browne taking the helm of Moncler Gamme Bleu, Simon Spurr consulting on design for Tommy Hilfiger, or the launch of the commercially successful Gant by Michael Bastian line. Still, Billy Reid is different from the rest and that is one of his strongest characteristics.

The Billy Reid lifestyle is aptly described by its designer as “lo-fi” whereas these other three brands are increasingly becoming anything but. His collections have been very subtle ones, intricately building a brand image that celebrated a slower life than the celebrity-laden associations Spurr has developed. But in his first runway show, Reid appears to have met these other designers on their turf. Bringing a color palette of cool blues, greys, and beiges, his F/W ’12 line felt his mild-mannered Southern gent had just returned from a lengthy period in Paris. A strong collection, indeed, his 4×2 double breasted jackets were a wonderful touch to his tailored pieces.

Amidst the madness of New York Fashion Week, the menswear community’s focus has turned to the numerous Fall/Winter ’12 collections that are being unveiled. Runway shows and presentations by N. Hoolywood, Todd Snyder, and Rag & Bone are among those receiving the most praise, but Suitsupply stays focused on the calender and just launched their S/S ’12 collection online today. Will the full range coming to their SoHo shop later this week, it seems like the right time to start preparing for the coming season. Soft-shoulder suiting in their Napoli, Lazio, and Sienna models are spot on for the coming season–in keeping with the great tradition of Neapolitan tailoring.

 

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Another NY fashion week is on hand. While there will be plenty of press on brands like Michael Bastian, Simon Spurr, and Rag & Bone who capture the attention of editors and bloggers alike with their runway shows, the biggest brand of them all will likely continue on relatively unnoticed this week. Ralph Lauren rarely shows it’s menswear collection, save their wonderful F/W ’06 collection that Ralph demanded get the runway treatment, but just because they don’t opt for center stage doesn’t mean that they’re not doing just as interesting of work as the others. It’s all too easy to dismiss Ralph Lauren as the mega-brand that sticks to it’s formula and recycles their looks, but in reality their collections are just as intricate as any of those on show.

With a staggering diversity of Purple Label, Black Label, Polo, and now Black Label Denim and Denim & Supply, they’re always making fashion commentary in places that the Ralph Lauren name isn’t typically associated with. While their still may be boundaries that some other great designers–Umit Benan, Michael Bastian, and Thom Browne–aren’t quite faced with, this makes the designers at RL some of the best architects of clothing in the business. Black Label looks to be particularly strong for F/W ’12, especially this monochromatic fatigue look above. Check the rest of the images for the full RL F/W ’12 experience.

In the cooler parts of the year there come plenty of days when wearing just a sport coat won’t do the job, but a full-on winter jacket is overkill. There are a select group of guys out there who have solved this problem by adding a quilted jacket to their wardrobe. Functionally it fills a difficult role in your closet, but aesthetically the quilted jacket can sink the guy who doesn’t go to the tailor. The added heft of the goose down makes these jackets a prime suspect for expanding the midriff of anyone who wears them. So how does one go about solving this issue?

Cantarelli

Tailor it. Tailor it aggressively. If you have a good relationship with your tailor then he might expect you to nip the waist, or bring the sleeve in–but not so much that it will wrinkle around your elbow. Well, if you wear these jackets like you do the rest, then you won’t look as good as you may be used to. So tell the tailor to bring them in that extra bit–it won’t compromise your look as the down creates more give in the jacket. Once you wear it a few times the snug fit will actually feel great…trust me.

Moncler Gamme Bleu

While these jackets aren’t the most available pieces on the market, there are a few different brands that have perfected the art of the quilted jacket. Cantarelli does some of the best quilted jackets out of Italy, while Moncler’s French by way of Manhattan, thanks to designer Thom Browne, pieces run a little more left-of-center. Aside from styling, the latter will be an excellent choice for the smaller man and the former an ideal selection for those who are taller or have longer arms. Whether or not you choose to experiment with a quilted jacket is your choice, but the final tip is to have fun with it–you’ll stand out a bit, so revel in it.

So maybe the New Year hasn’t worked out as well as you’d hoped, maybe you’ve been worked senseless recently, or maybe you’re still bitter you didn’t go to Pitti Uomo, as much as you’ve heard “money can’t buy happiness” you’re familiar with the good feeling you get when a box of new clothing arrives on your doorstep. Retail therapy is as old as retail itself. This is a post for those who are looking to do a bit of self-gifting–nothing less, nothing more. In the spirit of reason over indulgence, this piece starts with the four strongest pieces at Uniqlo.

The Japanese fashion mecca usually will receive either overwhelming praise or the most scathing of reviews–we like to think of it as a nice place to fill in a few gaps as they always have some great pieces, but a whole wardrobe by the brand will leave you looking a bit cheap and utilitarian. Right now, their light-weight down jacket is the strongest item in the collection and at $80 it’s a fantastic layering piece for winter. This jacket is seriously warm. Along with the jacket, their merino-cashmere crewneck sweater is quite the value, we like it even more than their $99 cashmere sweaters that our friend Agyesh is always talking up. Fill in with a $30 cashmere scarf and a pair of slim fatigue cargos under $50 and you can get quite a lot out of a final receipt that reads $200.

Uniqlo Down Jacket, $79
Uniqlo Merino-Cashmere Sweater, $79
Uniqlo Slim Cargo Trouser, $49
Uniqlo Cashmere Scarf, $29

 

 

Stepping the price point up a level, two of the most classic American brands, Ralph Lauren and Paul Stuart, are having nice little sales at the moment. One can pick up Phineas Cole’s killer doeskin navy suit under $900, perfect for the financier who hopes to be the best-dressed guy in the office without breaking dress code. Another one of Phineas Cole’s best pieces, their flannel Prince Albert slipper, is a little more attainable at $198. Perfect piece for those looking to diversify their footwear collection. Another unique piece that ought to shine in any man’s wardrobe is one of Ralph Lauren Purple Label’s brushed cotton cutaway collar shirts. While it is still pricey at $250, this brings it in at well under half of it’s retail cost. Pair it up with RL’s brilliant quilted sport coat and you’ve got a great look on your hands.

Phineas Cole Doeskin Suit, $898
Phineas Cole Flannel Slipper, $198
Ralph Lauren Quilted Sport Coat, $191
Ralph Lauren Purple Label Tattersall Shirt, $250

Tom Ford puts on a suit every time he needs a confidence boost, so following his lead we picked out three of Suitsupply’s best options for the season. At $469, $569, and $639, respectively, these suits are some of the best values on the market. Mills like Barbaris, Larusmiani, and Guabello are usually only associate with four-figure suiting prices, but these suits all use piece goods spun by these three. Famous for their suits that won The Wall Street Journal’s blind testing in construction quality, the attractive price point means that a guy can get a great corduroy suit or wool three-piece for a fraction of the price of what their competitors in quality do.

Sienna Navy Suit, $639
Brown Wool Washington Suit, $569
Corduroy Copenhagen Suit, $469

The best of all 242 photos. Of course it happens to be of Nick Wooster.

Pitti Uomo is now over. With street style coming from every corner of the internet, we figured that we’d bring it all together in one place. Comprising 250 photos in total, the Pitti gallery below might just be all of the street style you can stomach for the entire year. Proceed at your own risk…

Thanks to Tommy Ton, Nam, Justin Chung, Sean Hotchkiss, Scott Schuman, and Mordechai Rubinstein for most of these shots.

For guys that wonder how they can look more unique in their formalwear without becoming the joke of the party, we wanted put together a group of images that run from the most conservative to the truly outlandish and everywhere in between. Instead of picking from a various group of designers, though, we looked to the king of menswear for all of the inspiration one could need. This post is meant to be used as inspiration the next time you get dressed for a formal event, and with 24 different looks to learn from, you should have no trouble finding something that works with your own personal style. Enjoy…

Navy S130′s Suit by Suitsupply, $639

I wanted to start with this navy suit because it really is the best embodiment of value on this list. Suitsupply is an incredibly impressive brand from the both the craftsmanship and pricing standpoints, so when their design is on you have all a three pieces that go into perfect value at work. This soft-shouldered suit is where Suitsupply really hits their stride as it has a slim-fit, but with enough room for those that want something that has enough freedom of movement to be appropriate for the office. The shade of navy is beautiful and just a tinge lighter than what a lot of guys wear here in the states–not enough to make a bold statement, but just enough to look a bit more colorful than the rest. At $639 this isn’t their cheapest suit, but considering the only real competitors at this price point are J. Crew and Rugby this really puts the others to shame in all three of the crucial categories.

Cashmere Crewneck Sweater by Uniqlo, $99

Surprised to see the “fast food of fashion” on this list? Well, you shouldn’t be. Underestimating Uniqlo is common, but more often than not, a fruitless endeavor. They may miss on plenty of the pieces they make, but due to their ability to cut down on prices because of the sheer mass of their production, you’re bound to find a great value piece here and there. Luckily, their best pieces are their cashmere knits–which never go out of production, thankfully. Coming in 7 different colors online and plenty more in-store, these $99 cashmere sweaters are a much better value than what you’ll see at many affordable brands. It’s foolish to compare these to some of the luxury brands out there, but considering that they come in at a double-digit price, you’re getting a ton of value in construction and timeless style for what you pay. Don’t forget you can order Uniqlo online through Suddenlee.com.

Half-Brogue Oxford Shoe by DC Lewis, $460

DC Lewis might be the most obscure brand on this list, but these shoes are not–I repeat, not–to be slept on. One of the best parts about DC Lewis is that they’re small enough that you’re working on a made-to-order basis, which allows you to choose from a nice selection of leathers and suedes. You may have to wait approximately 8 weeks to get your shoes, but you wouldn’t be able to choose your leather if these shoes were made RTW. This is a trade-off that a man interested in value should be happy to make. The last of the Porter model is classic and beautiful, with a nice brouging on the toe box and a fiddleback waist–a detail that is hard to find outside of bespoke footwear.

White V-Neck T-Shirts (Pack of 3) by Hanes, $21

Hanes is a classic American clothing brand that has been offering wonderful value for almost 111 years (not bad). Every stylish guy out there has worn, and probably loved, a hands v-neck cotton t-shirt at some point or another, save Tom Ford who wears Fruit of the Loom when he is back home in Santa Fe–after they’ve been taken to the tailor, of course. Plenty of fashion brands try their hand at the white cotton tee and many of them offer very cool iterations of the classic piece, but when it comes to value you just aren’t going to find something that justifies its price tag the way that Hanes does with their $21 three-pack. It’s really a no-brainer.