Men's Flair

Sartorial Love/Hate: Denim Shirts

Simon Crompton — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 09:16:11 +0000

The introduction of denim into our wardrobes was, make no mistake, a revolution. What was once an unremarkable fabric for the working class became a sought after fashion fabric that conquered the globe; denim was to the late twentieth century what Huddersfield cotton was to the 19th. Tough, hard-wearing and distinctively American, jeans particularly are [...]

British Bespoke – Part 3

Simon Crompton — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 19:29:26 +0000

My first, baste fitting for my bespoke suit at Graham Browne today. While I’ve had fittings at this stage previously with my Hong Kong tailor, this is the first time I’ve been able to ask as many questions and probe the details of this process. The first image shows what the chest area of the suit [...]

Get The Basics Right – It Makes A Big Difference

Simon Crompton — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 10:12:34 +0000

I am aware that as my interest in fine men’s clothes progresses, and my education improves, the subjects on which I write can become more esoteric, even academic. Witness recent posts on the Blake construction of shoes and the minutiae of darts in trousers. Wonderful as these facets of knowledge are, they make less and less [...]

Why Jermyn Trumps The High Street

Winston Chesterfield — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 11:06:10 +0000

It has been said, among my friends, that I have become a rather unctuous high-street drum-beater. Even I myself fear that my initial ravings about how good the overlooked menswear departments of high street retailers actually are has turned into a sanctimonious and rather dull eulogy. Shaking my head at the ‘fools’ spending their week’s [...]

The Handkerchief Is An Anchor

Simon Crompton — Sat, 27 Jun 2009 02:08:08 +0000

Bright colours often need reining in. Or perhaps anchoring is the right metaphor. Left on its own, a bright jacket (for example) can dominate an outfit and seem to float above it, rather than harmonising. It strikes the viewer as an individual item rather than part of an intelligently worked ensemble. Equally, if the jacket is [...]

British Bespoke – Part 2

Simon Crompton — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 23:20:10 +0000

I saw my first British bespoke suit being drawn and cut recently at Graham Browne, in advance of the first fitting. First I saw the patterns being drawn. Picture 1 shows the pattern for the front part of the trousers, which has just been drawn out. The three length points are marked first – the bottom [...]

Links: Summer Look, Roger Federer, Closet Cleaning…

staff — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 19:46:44 +0000

• The summer look… can it get any better than this? (thesartorialist.blogspot.com) • Apparently, it can. (thesartorialist.blogspot.com) • Roger Federer bringing cool back to the court. (thedailystyle.blogspot.com) • Keep only clothing you actually wear. (madetomeasureny.com) • All you need (not) to know about cufflinks fashion in UK. (filmnoirbuff.com) • First look at GANT S/S 2010 collection. (acontinuouslean.com) • Don’t miss up [...]

Why Men Are Scared Of Real Trousers

Simon Crompton — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:13:43 +0000

It often seems odd quite how many men wear jeans outside the office, and no other trousers. I was sitting in a taxi with three friends a while ago, all facing each other as you are in a black cab, and it struck me that we were all wearing mid-blue jeans, in a vaguely straight [...]

Ha! You Think These Are Golf Shoes?

Simon Crompton — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 16:38:37 +0000

Golf shoes are the living memory of classic footwear. Within them the traditions of the past live on in a way not possible in any other walk of life (apologies for the pun). This is because golf retains the twin features of social propriety and gentlemanly sport. It used to be the case that one’s dress was [...]

Cheap Bespoke Part 2

Simon Crompton — Fri, 19 Jun 2009 11:22:12 +0000

My post just over a week ago on the possibilities of finding cheap bespoke shoes by separately arranging for a personal last and a maker has drawn a lot of comment, both on the sites and privately through email or meetings. To respond to one point quickly – I do not mind commissioning an independent worker [...]