Field Notes

Essential Apps in China for Tourists

2019-08-06T12:02:00.000+08:00

These are the list of the essential apps I used daily in Beijing and Inner Mongolia. China is known for its Great Wall and the Great Wall of Internet Blockade. So here are the must-have apps to be able to post your travels (daily awra and #OOTD) and to get around easily:

PSIPHON. This is a free and open-source Internet censorship circumvention tool that uses a combination of secure communication and obfuscation technologies. This will give you VPN (virtual private network) so you can access and post your gala in your FB and IG. Cause baby, these sites are banned there.
WIFIMASTERKEY. For someone like me who does not want costly internet roaming charges, this is important. This will enable your phone to connect to any public wifi without password or login. This is a app that help users connect to the Internet through shared WiFi access shared by hotspot owners.
MAPS.ME. I've been using this in most of my travels. Just pre-download the map where you are going so you can use if offline. It has detailed routes, streets and buildings. Helpful also when you want to check out the nearest restaurants.
WAYGO. This is your visual translator. Just point it on the picture, example the restaurant menu you can't understand and it will translate the Chinese characters in English. However, this is quite limited, only 2 lines max. Unless you pay for its premium.
BEIJING Real Time Bus app. This is helpful for those who wish to be adventurous and take the public commute. You can choose and click on the target bus line. Select the direction you are heading to and finally you choose the bus stop where you are wish to start your journey. But using this esp in Beijing is quite tricky since traffic condition makes it impossible to be 'real time'.
BEIJING SUBWAY. This is the official app for the train. The train is easy to navigate and has English signs. This app is helpful to know the arrival, departure and stations. I roam around most of attractions that are near stations, like the Beijing Zoo and Beijing National Stadium or the Bird's Nest.
ENGLISH CHINESE TRANSLATION. This easy app that supports translation from Chinese into English and vice- versa not just words, including phrases and sentences. It also recognizes modern and traditional Chinese characters.
GOOGLE TRANSLATE. Despite having humorous errors in translation, this app still gives fast offline translation. Also, you will need VPN to make it work.
PLECO. This is helpful especially for those learning advanced Chinese. This is great to use on traditional characters which is quite tricky. And it has a pinyin, touch pad where you can draw the character to know what it is, and quickly translate it and even provides examples how it is used in a sentence. I find this the coolest option for all of the apps. It is free, offline and no-ads!

Or if all else fails and they tried to talk to you in Chinese, you can try this:

Wo ting budong. Wo zhou zhongwen. Feleiben ren.

I do not understand. I do not speak Chinese. I am a Filipina.

ADDITIONAL.

10. WECHAT. This is the 'official' multi-purpose messaging, social media and mobile payment app. If you are travelling longer than a week there, you should download this.

ProTip: There is a group of Cultural Exchange Trip (CETrip) in WeChat that have affordable weekend trips, such as featured 'Welcome to my hometown' trips and Couchsurfing program. They have English-speaking guides. This is mostly organized by local university and foreign exchange students. This is where we have booked our 2019 New Year Inner Mongolia trip.

Welcome sign at the University of Chinese Academy of Sciences (UCAS)

Inner Mongolia Trip with this gang.
uuhmm kami lang ang foreigner sa grupo! 😅

So I hope you get your visa ready and

享受你的中国之旅  

Xiǎngshòu nǐ de zhōngguó zhī lǚ
ENJOYYYYYYYYYY your trip to China!

Guide for Pinoys: Tourist Visa Application for China

2019-08-06T11:43:00.000+08:00

Some friends have asked me about visa application for China and I just remembered this is a long overdue post.

Yes, we still need a visa going to China kahit beshy-beshy na ang current admin with them, while Taiwan have granted and even extended visa-free for Filipino tourists. Oooh the ironies of this One-China Policy.

Anyway, I went to Beijing and Inner Mongolia last December 2018- January 2019 to visit a dear friend who is taking her PhD in Xishuangbanna. This supposedly will merit a long post but my lazy self overruled. 😜

So for fellow Pinoys travelling to mainland China, here are the needed requirements for first-time applicants:

Your passport. Make sure it is valid for a minimum of 6 months upon travel to avoid hassle at the immigration.
Filled- out visa application form. You can download it here: http://cs.mfa.gov.cn/wgrlh/lhqz/sblhqz_660598/P020130828561586361528.pdf Type your answers and do not leave any field blank. Put N/A if the item does not apply. Again, type first your answers before printing!
Photo – Please provide 2 color photos and affix one of the photos on the Application Form. The photo should be recent (within 6 months), front view, white background, in 48mm x 33mm size without head covering. DO NOT STAPLE YOUR PHOTO!
Bank Certificate of Deposit Balance (including the past 6 months bank statement) and the receipt for payment of this certificate. Just go to your bank and request for this and this usually takes around 3-5 days. So how much should you have in your bank account? It will depend on the length of stay in China. My modest calculation is around Php 2,000- P3, 000 per day x the number of days you will stay there. If you have more, why not coconut?! 😀
BIR-stamped Income Tax Return Form (I submitted our company pay slip)
Certificate of Employment (detailing the salary and the length of employment
Business Registration Certificate (if you are the owner);
Professional ID/Student ID (if applicable).
Other relevant documents proving the applicant's economic condition/ employment/study, or supporting the applicant's travel to China, or explaining the travel purpose (if applicable);
Copy of your round-trip airline ticket
Travel Itinerary. There are a lot of online guides already on which area you plan to visit. Tailor fit based on the number of days you are there. If you are taking a guided tour, then you can ask them to send the itinerary.
Copy of Hotel reservation.
If you are not staying in a hotel and say your friend invited you over, you have to get an invitation letter* and the photocopy of the inviter's Chinese ID/ Passport with Chinese Residence Permit.

* The above mentioned invitation letter must contain the following information:1) Information on the applicant : full name, gender, date of birth, etc.
2) Information on the planned visit: purpose of visit, arrival and departure dates, place(s) to be visited, relations between the applicant and the inviting entity or individual, financial source for expenditures, etc.
3) Information on the inviting entity or individual: name, contact telephone number, address, official stamp, signature of the legal representative or the inviting individual.

The invitation letter may be in the form of fax, photocopy or computer printout, but the consular officer may require the applicant to submit the original of the invitation letter.
The proofs of kinship refers to marriage certificate, birth certificate, certification of kinship
issued by Chinese Public Security Bureau or notarized certification of kinship.

If you cannot personally give your application or if you are travelling as a group, ensure an authorization letter and photocopy of your ID, for the one who will submit the requirements on your behalf.

You can apply at the Chinese Consular Office in Makati.
Address:
2nd Floor, the World Center,
330 Sen. Gil J. Puyat Avenue,
Makati City, Metro Manila

You can now also apply at Chinese Consular Office in Davao City
Address:
Acacia Street, Juna Subdivision, Matina, Davao City
Tel No.: 082-298-7471

REMEMBER, Visa application is only in the morning, from 09:00 am to 11:00 am, Monday to Friday.

Regular processing is 4 days to get your visa.
Visa payment for Single entry is Php 1,400 upon claiming. You have to pay in cash!

Again, you have to collect personally your visa for the consular office. Walang delivery service sila mga mamsh. If you're travelling as a group and just one person will get it, ensure again an authorization letter and photocopy of ID.

CHECK THE DETAILS OF YOUR VISA BEFORE YOUR LEAVE THE CONSULAR OFFICE.

Make sure that the dates are correct. It should cover the date of your arrival and exit.

These requirements are only for tourist visa. If you need other types of visa, you can check more details from the China Embassy in Ph here: http://ph.china-embassy.org/eng/lsfw/visas/t960523.htm

#RaiseYourFlag at one of the original part of Great Wall in Huairou District, Beijing

I hope this helps. Message me if you want clarifications.

And I have a separate post for the must- have apps that will help you around in China. Kanji letters mostly dun mga mamsh and if you go outside of the city centers, konti lang ang nag-Eenglish, so better equip yourself with helpful apps. 😉

Introduction to Yangon (Rangoon)

2019-03-23T07:00:00.000+08:00

Myanmar is a relatively a new democracy, as per Western standards of nation-building. Just came out of military dictatorship, this nation is grappling with the entry of investments, economic zones and entry of tourists.

What's in the news?

The first time I read about Myanmar, formerly known as Burma, is Amy Tan’s novel, Saving the Fish from Drowning way back in 2008. That novel used a ghost perspective looking at the American tourists travelling from China to Myanmar. The tourists were kidnapped by Karen people of Myanmar as one of the American teenagers was the prophesied savior who will lead them to victory. While the tourists did not know they are even abducted but thought it was part of a great jungle adventure! The novel is half spoof and fairy tale and an irony of sorts, how can you save the fish from drowning? It’s like taking out of the fish because you’re afraid for it to get drown in deep water. And it also talked about the uneasy political situation in Burma, including the debates on changing its name.

Anyway, I got hooked with that novel that I gave it to my younger sister as her reading assignment. And it all came back to me when my colleagues told me about Myanmar and its recent ‘reopening’ to the world after the military junta was ‘overthrown’.

Myanmar is a former British colony and an extension of the Indian province, were problematic British soldiers and ambitious Indian professionals have been tasked to serve. The country has a long history of struggle for its independence from foreign colonizers up to the military rule after.

You might also wonder, what is the correct name, Myanmar or Burma? Before, it was politically incorrect to use the name Myanmar. The U.S. government refused to use Myanmar as it does not acknowledge the name change made in 1989 by the country's military junta.

The military rulers had changed several other mispronounced name places from the British colonial period such as “Mergui” as Myeik, “Rangoon” as Yangon, “Pegu” as Bago.

The name change to Myanmar was recognized by the United Nations and by countries such as France and Japan, but not by the United States and the United Kingdom. With some political reforms made by their former President Thein Sein, it was only with President Obama’s administration that the US started to use Myanmar.

Their democracy icon Aung San Suu Kyi also uses 'Burma' in English but in her statements published in Burmese she has used 'Myanmar' instead of 'Bamar'."

One of our fellow traveler asked our guide what is the politically correct one to use. Myo, our guide said, Myanmar have 135 officially recognizes ethnic groups. Burma (Bamar), is only one of it and is considered the largest ethnic group. Renaming this ethnically diverse country means inclusivity. Myanmar, is a Burmese word of Myanma meaning “swift and strong.”

Now back to our trip.

So when you visit here, it is a must I daresay you take the Free Yangon Walk Tour by Beyond Borders that happens every Monday and Wednesday at 4PM. The walk starts at Maha Bandula Park in front of the City Hall and Sule Pagoda. You will learn a lot of inside stories you have to read only in history books and I know you have no time for that.

Sule Pagoda, a 48 meter (152 feet) high golden dome was used by the British as the nucleus of their grid pattern for the city when it was rebuilt in the 1880s. The pagoda's peculiarity is its octagonal- shaped pagoda. which retains its shape as it tapers to the spire.

Sule Pagoda at night

This is one of the most notable landmarks and a historical area for demonstrations and large gatherings. Sule Pagoda, for one is the gathering point for the 1988 Uprising or the 8-8-88 Nationwide Popular Pro-Democracy Protests and the 2007 Saffron Revolution, protests against Myanmar's military dictatorship led by the monks.

The day we arrived is the day of our walking tour too. February 27, Wednesday. It was an auspicious day too as we witnessed the huge gathering of people in support for the amendments of the 2008 Constitution.

Crowd supporting the call for the 2008 Constitution amendment at Maha Bandula Park, infront of the City Hall

Their 2008 Constitution was made during the military junta and it states that he Tatmadaw (Myanmar Armed Forces) retain significant control of the government. 25% of seats in the Parliament are reserved for serving military officers. The ministries of home, border affairs and defense have to be headed by a serving military officer. The military also appoints one of the country's two vice presidents. The Commander in Chief of the army has powers that could even rival that of the President and with absolute power on state emergencies.

Looks like a good retirement plan for the army!

There is a call to amend the said Constitution however, the benchmark to pass the amendment is also extremely high! It requires more than 75 per cent of all representatives in the national parliament, as well as more than half the votes at a national referendum. This leaves no doubt that the military controls the current constitutional amendment process, given that it occupies 25 per cent of the seats in parliament. The provision on amending the Constitution must be amended foremost to ensure that this is no longer the case.

An outsider looking in, I don’t know if they will get the votes considering the current composition of their Parliament, but boy, it was such a huge crowd and palpable excitement of a non-violent gathering. But we also saw military officers in plainclothes that day taking pictures. Memories of my student days rallying with military intelligence officers taking pictures came into my mind.

Which make us- the Philippines and Myanmar like siblings! We have that same experience in terms of military rule, dictatorship after colonization. So, it is now surprising to see a lot of Filipino NGO workers here in Myanmar, sharing the experience about Martial Law, community organizing and development principles. And with our current President appointing retired generals in the major Cabinet positions, we Filipinos are like Myanmar, militarization of the bureaucracy! Same same but different.

The walking tour have introduced us to the colonial buildings in downtown Yangon with British colonial era designs: Victorian, Queen Anne, Neoclassical, Art Deco and British-Burmese. Many of these buildings are clustered along streets laid out in a chessboard pattern centered on the Sule Pagoda.

Downtown aerial view from http://yangonarchitecture.tumblr.com

Top: Rander House (1932) now Internal Revenue Department took over the lower floors, while the top floors were turned into apartments.

Left: Accountant General's Office and Currency Department where collections of colonial government revenue that came from opium), salt, custom duties, railways, post offices, telegraphs and major irrigation works.

Right: Sofaer’s Building designed by Isaac Sofaer, a Jewish immigrant from Baghdad, where Egyptian cigars & European luxury items were sold

If you are interested more with the colonial buildings in Kyaktuada Township, Yangon's downtown area, check out Architectural Guide Yangon: for more in-depth history of each buildings.

We also chanced upon people preparing htamane, sticky rice along the road.

This where the financial district thrives with smuggled books, bookshop area in Pansodan Street. We went as far as the bridge going to the jetty during sunset. One thing you will notice here, they have a lot of crows!

Inquisitive Walking Group at Myanma Port Authority on the background

We ended the tour at Yangon Stock Exchange, formerly the Reserve Bank of India. We parted ways with our guide Myo and our fellow travelers.

Liezl and I were famished with all the walking! So, we went back to Maha Bandula Park to try the local food in one of the many stalls offering noodles and fresh juices. We ate rice noodles and sugar cane juice, ordering in halting English and sign language. The young woman serving our noodles and her twin sister (we assumed) were amazed. They thought we’re also Burmese. They keep on giggling at us, Asians. I told her, we’re same same. 😊 They wore dresses and with thanaka, that paste-like powder in their faces that served as moisturizer, make-up and sunscreen.

rice noodles with fresh veggies for the famished souls!

Here’s a thing in Myanmar. You will see young men and women in all ages wearing thanaka and their traditional clothes still. Men still wear longyi, a tubular textile rather than pants as compared to other Asian counterparts. Polo shirts on top and longyi, hoooow comfortable!

hand-painted postcards from Hla Days

of course, I tried the thanaka on myself. It leaves a cooling sensation on your face! I brought one home.

So while we in Southeast Asia are same same, this is distinctly Myanmar- thanaka and longyi. And they are proud and tall with it.

We walked to Hla Days, a social enterprise store with a collection of different products across Myanmar. I bought handmade postcards, hand-painted by differently-abled persons while Liezl was charmed by a lovely wrap-around skirt.

Downstairs is the highly rated trip advisor Rangoon Tea House. We went inside to look and indeed, it is full of tourists. Liezl and I wanted to try it, but we realized we only have a few thousand kyats (chats) left and only for taxi fare.

We hailed a cab and told him our hotel. We are negotiating in broken English still when this delivery guy on his bike stopped and helped us out. He told the cab driver the address in the local language and told us the amount he is asking. 4,000 kyats. That’s around Php 138.00. We agreed immediately. And only to be told, it was already expensive! Our grab ride from the hotel to downtown area is 2,300 kyat (Php 79.00).

Travel Tip: ask the person in charge in your hotel reception to write your Hotel’s name and address in Burmese.

So yes, fellows, it’s kinda cheap even to our Pinoy standard cost. I will share our guesstimate costs with our no-frills chill itinerary in a separate post.

That's it for Day 1 of our Yangon adventure!

Karma and Chance Encounters

2019-01-28T13:38:00.000+08:00

I was in Mandaluyong 2 weeks ago for a meeting. I was representing my cousins who are planning to have a franchise of a gluta drip and spa and I’m meeting its owner at Coffee Bean. The owner was late for 30 minutes. I don't mind as I have brought my work along with me.

I was midway my work when the spa owner arrived. He and I had a good chat for an hour, he answered all my queries and the needed requirements. He left and I continued my work when someone tapped me on my shoulder..” May Cheeeee? Is that really you?”

Standing in front of me, is our smiling, bespectacled high school valedictorian who is now an oncologist. At first I could not believe this man is the boy whom I kicked his chair he almost feel on his face! I always remember this incident and I always feel bad but somehow happy knowing that I have a story associated with this humble doctor. Fun times.

We told anecdotes and memories shared at our high school alma mater. We updated each other on our current works, difficulties and passion projects that needs pursuing. We decided to have an early dinner slash merienda catch up. He’s just living in the area and knows a good place to chill. We rode the tricycle and reminisced our high school days riding the tricycle after school despite the hazards of overloading. Looking back, we’re indeed reckless, wild and free.

We talked and laughed till our bellies ached. I still can’t believe that after how many years of not meeting each other, we will have a brief encounter here in the Big Metro, of all places! He also told me was just done with his laundry and decided to drop by at the coffee shop. And the delayed start of my earlier meeting coincided with this chance encounter.

Partly, one of the reasons why I’m restarting this blog is because of Lance. Lance is first person I know who’s been blogging (bottling his brain!) since high school and who reads voraciously! Imagine, he can still blog despite his daily rounds at the hospital!

Now, that’s a challenge for my procrastinating self.

Snacks with Merlot at Locavore. Sooooo Tito/a!! 😊

Thank you Doc Lance for reminding me to go back to what I love doing. Indeed, ‘old’ friends keep you grounded. And I can’t help but think of Murakami’s quote:

Even chance meetings are the result of karma… Things in life are fated by our previous lives. That even in the smallest events there’s no such thing as coincidence.

DORA IS BACK!!

2019-01-24T10:46:00.000+08:00

After much prodding from friends, I am back slowly into blogging. As I posted here, I’ve been all wrapped up with bigger responsibilities the past years. I’ve been travelling both for work and personal inclination. I still do document my thoughts through my journals or notes in my phone.

Just recently, I deleted the notes in my phone and I accidentally deleted its back-up as I was trying to free up some space. %^U@$CRYVX. There go my daily thoughts in Batanes!

I post a few pictures in Facebook every time I travel and several friends messaged me how, the budget and what places to see. I promised them to post about it once I have my free time.

It’s been months and adulting has a way of sucking up all your energies. I know this should not be an excuse but, I warn you now. As you grow older, naps and long uninterrupted sleep is your bestfriend!

Anyway, I just want to say Hello and thank you for the friendships tested by time, for the new acquaintances, travel companions I’ve met along the way and to my online clients who believed in my writing skills even though this virtual space has been in hiatus for quite some time.

I will try to share the backstories- anecdotes, people I’ve met on the road, travel mishaps and some tips on the places I visited. Again, I am no expert. I just want to share to you the joy of exploring. You do not need to be rich to travel. There are a lot of budget airlines now, you just need to take note of those seat sales and your vacation leaves!

Also, I won’t be telling you how to be frugal to the point of haggling too much (sobrang barat) to the detriment of the locals. Know when to haggle as if you’re being made to pay 4x the average price, and know when to respect that tourism is the only source of income and the impact of high inflation rate in the area. Take note: Hindi mo ikakamatay ang dagdag na Php 50 sa bayad sa habal-habal or tricycleespecially when you’re travelling solo. Travel to help local economy, buy the local products.

This is your Dora Lakwatsera saying, thank you for staying and let’s explore together.

Watch out for the next blogposts.

Hiatus and Growing Wings

2016-06-28T11:17:00.000+08:00

This is a repository, a sort of extension and 'cleaned up' version of my doodles and stories in my journals. And I have a looooong list of drafts in this "virtual diary" from months of being on the road. I don't claim to be a travel blogger or anything. I just like the idea of sharing stories of having a good laugh or mishaps with strangers.

But lately, I just stopped writing. There's a kind of hurricane that sucked up all your energy that all you want is to just stare in the wall. Or stay in bed the whole day.

You know the feeling of craving for something but not knowing what it is? Or the feeling of having too much in your plate and you decided you are not that hungry at all? That and a whole lot more.
No this is not depression. Just a much needed hiatus to find my swank.

My friend once remarked, "Oh you no longer update your blog?" I just smiled. I still helped out friends on their travel itineraries and even customized how-to-tips. I blame Facebook and Instagram for the instant snaps and captions. The sort of I have to post it now thoughts that you no longer have the energy to compose a longer one later on. I blame my laziness and lack of discipline. Or I clearly believed that wrote a lot of stories and poems in my head during sleep and when I woke up, I just can't remember a single word.

I still write in my notebooks and rediscovering my old notes- laughing at my silliness and wondering how it came too easy before.

For now, I keep busy staring with this Totoro goodness:

Day 4: Phonm Penh Touristitas Yayas

2015-04-08T18:39:00.002+08:00

We don't have a specific itinerary in mind for Phnom Penh is intended to be a time for bonding with Marj and her cute adorable baby, Ema Ayeesha. Marj is my coursemate, boardmate and after-college roomie. How we were able to withstand each other despite our different personalities is something for the books. She is a kikay, a leader and endearing personality. We went out separate ways when she decided to leave the apartment. Later I learned she found her love and started a family in this foreign land. To adjust in a new surrounding is not easy. Transition is never easy, but love makes you do impossible feats. And I am so happy for this woman who found her own self, and able to maintain her lithe figure after pregnancy.

She booked us at Burly Guesthouse, which is very near their apartment. Also her husband Tom knew the manager and asked them to let us have an early check-in. The check-in time is still at 10AM so we decided to eat our breakfast at the nearby restaurant and lounge around. The food serving is good for two already but since we're too famished, sharing is not an option. There are a lot of monks collecting too and the children were taught to give respects to them.

It was already past 10AM when we went to the hotel and checked in. Then the reception the check-in time is 12NN. Early check-in means we have to pay $5 extra. We relented since we badly need to lie down in a comfortable bed. Then we asked the reception for the bus ticket going to Saigon and if they have arrangements. They said yes, we can have it for $11 and there will be a free tuktuk that will pick us up. When we inquired again later in the afternoon, the bus ticket price rose to $12 and there is no more free pick-up. We do not recommend this hostel. The service is just bad, the room is passable.

We took a long nap. Then we trooped to Marj's place and meet Tom and their little bundle of joy. The first meeting with Ema was a disaster and for this time, we wanted to give a lasting impression. It is a such humid day and we can't subject the little girl to the glaring sunlight. So we went to the Aeon Mall and talked nonstop. It's as if years of separation was just yesterday. We laughed, talked and bonded at the Breastfeeding Section of the Mall! Oh boy! I was so impressed by the big space allotted for mothers to feed the babies and for those with toddlers who can play. The cushions are soft, well-maintained and of course, you have a lot of privacy! We had the place almost for ourselves for an hour before other mothers came to feed their own hungry babies.

Ema still is not happy.

Can I be a nanny? $700 salary excluding benefits!
The mother almost faint when she heard my asking price.

We walked and checked out several stores and eat a lot. Ema is such a well-behaved darling and she just sleep. She was dead tired from walking while strapped unto me! We've been teasing Marj that she should get us as nanny. She will not only get a nanny but a tutor too! But sadly, she can't afford us.

The mother has to go home early to put Ema in bed while the three of us are still up for an adventure. We told the driver to drop us off Russian Market. I searched earlier the site for some areas of interest and Russian Market is on the list and it is just along the way. So we walked around and realized this is an old market, much like our Bangkerohan market. The place is so lively, full of people buying fresh produce at a low price.

Since we will not be cooking, we decided to go to the Night Market near the bus terminals. There, the street foods are sumptuous and they have mats at the center area where you can have your own picnic. Sharing a meal alongside hundreds of people in a square is like a huge family picnic at night! I tried the ginger mint tea and it is the best remedy for the very humid night.

Then we bought our pasalubong of shawls and shirts. Found a very wonderful shawl with butterfly prints. I always go gaga for shawls and I have to stop myself from buying more since I already purchased several kinds from Siem Reap. We were able to get a lot of discount from one stall owner as the two girls almost bought a dozen shirts from him alone.

We also met a lot of Filipinos buying a lot of stuff on sale at the night market. They shared that they were also on vacation and spent it in Saigon and Phomn Penh. Then they recommended a place to stay at Saigon's backpackers' area.

Before midnight, we hailed a tuktuk and called it a day.

Day 3 Longest Night of my Life

2015-01-21T22:54:00.001+08:00

For our last day here, we decided to take Nakim's suggestion to visit Tonle Lake, then the City tour mid afternoon up to nightime.

The long and hot walk yesterday gave us cramps. Instead of the planned 7AM tour, we left the guesthouse an hour late. And the way to Tonle Lake is quite far. The scenery is like having a fieldwork once again somewhere in Maguindanao. It is a long ride with rice fields, lotus field and some fishponds on the sides. There is also another temple on the other side of the mountain where you can get a good shot for the sunset. Later we found out that you can go there for free, you just need to pretend you are a local. :p

intense stare

boat people of Tonle Lake

Nakim already paid our $23 each person for the boat ride and we have Samin and Ra as guides. There is two large boats with Korean tourists ahead of us.

Ra says he is a volunteer tourist guide. he works as a waiter in the mainland resto. Samin has been working with "The Company", the Association of the Boatmen in control of the lake tourism in the area.
There is an ongoing resort being constructed near the lake. Nina confidently shared it must be a coal-fired power plant but our guides said it is a resort owned by one Khmer and Korean.

Notice the dirty white overhead? That's the cover of the banca where they put their dead.

Water lilies can be eaten

It's a harsh life.

The boys pointed to us their burial area alongside Tonle Lake. Then a small boat with a family followed our boat. There is a kid holding a snake and wrapped it around his neck and Xyza started clicking to take photo. And then they asked for $2 dollars! Xyza was shocked. I knew it coming and told her to give them a dollar and I'll chip in the other dollar. Ra has been telling me earlier that the tourist arrival dwindled for the past months since it is the monsoon season. The lake swells and the water is just too murky and that drives tourists away.

We had our lunch at the resto at the north side of the lake community where there are hanging crocodiles, baby crocodiles and other by-products of its skin and wait....dildo! Yes, displayed in full glory. :D

Need some action? HAHA!

The Korean tourists. They are always in groups.

Then after lunch the guys, Ra and Samin suggested rather strongly that we can visit the mangrove and pay another boat going inside. We said we do not have enough time to do it. Earlier, Ra told us, especially me about the Charity House. This is where orphans and unmarried and widowed women live. He was insisting for us to buy "something for the kids there." The charity is also a preschool orphanage. They said food is better and one sack of rice (which is a small one, just around 25 kgs) for $30 (around Php 1, 330!).

At the back of my mind, here it goes! Before coming here, I already made research on the boat ride from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh and for its schedule. Then by accident I saw the long discussion in the Trip Advisor on the "racket" along Tonle Lake. There's several tourists who wrote that they also feel forced to buy something in the name of the Charity. But they saw the sacks of rice being brought back to the store! They felt they were deceived. Who does not want to give to charity? Who does not feel good about giving and sharing the blessings?

Then Ra was saying, "We like you because you are here to understand my country better. Not just tourists who came here and take pictures but you ask more questions, you are interested." I asked questions about the arrangements they have between the boat association and the big restaurant where they always take the tourists. I asked if there is some sort of a small percentage they give to the Charity and they said no. I asked, why? He was irritated why I asked. He claimed he came from the Charity.And everything they said it seemed should not be questioned. Not to be offensive, but hey, I know the look of poverty. We've seen it. We breathe it. I've worked with it.

But I know one who uses poverty for a racket. If they think just because we are there as tourists. then we will just shell out money and pay for whatever they ask, then they miscalculated us.

Earlier, they have been laughing with us. But when I refused to buy the small sack of rice and instead bought the candies and biscuits, and told them that we do not have huge amount of money they expect us to give, they changed. They stop being friendly and chattery with us. I can understand where their frustration came from- the neglect of government basic social services, the mainland vs coastal/lake division and how the tourism development marginalizes the 'not so picturesque' areas. We might be even one of the culprits for taking this trip and adding to the mafia-like business dealing in the area. However, there are other ways to take their cause and not to deceive tourists. He let us meet the school administrator/ principal and he got the latest iphone 6. so what does that tell us? I don't like the idea of classes being interrupted for "visitors/tourists to gawk at hapless orphans". It was barely a classroom, it was a showroom and I refuse to be a part of the charade.

I can sense the frustration with Ra's voice. But I caught him lying, he told me earlier he was married with children and later took it back saying it was a joke and that he is just 17 years old. I did not laugh with the joke.

I told Ra that I volunteered for a children's literacy program and we are not like other tourists that got a lot of money, he would not believe since travelling for him means spending a lot of money, ergo we got a lot of dollars with us. We tried to explain that we are working and students at the same time. If their attempts have been swallowed whole by other tourists, not us.

It was already getting late and the midday sun is already painful in the eyes. They insisted that we give tips. I did give a tip to the boatman, but for them, I told them the association has already charged us big enough to cover the tip. Nina and Xyza went ahead since they will be using the loo, I was left behind then Samin tried to accompany me to look for our tuktuk driver. Not in good intention but just to stall me thinking he can still get more tips from me. He is leading the wrong way. I told him off that I can find Nakim on my own. He attempted to get more tip but I stood my ground.

We found Nakim and we went back to the City center. When he asked us about our experience, the three of us looked at each other. I told him nicely that it was an eye-opening experience- to see the other side of their country. But I was heartbroken by the neglect that also caused people like the boatmen to make such racket. Tourism if not handled properly, only heighten the gap between the haves and the have-nots. Nakim nodded and also shared that there were already complaints. Also the small boats cater to small groups and if they continue it, it will surely discourage other travelers.

By traveling, we see both see the goodness and the gray side of humanity. Samin and Ra only wanted to live and feed their family and circumstances push them to do it. *sigh*

We talked about it on our way back to the downtown. But we won't let that to dampen our spirit. Nakim brought us to Artisans Angkor, where we learned about silk weaving, lacquer painting and stonework Our guide was Bohanne Lern and he was very patient in explaining to us the intricacies of the art. The apprentices are all over the area and they are trained and paid. The meticulous work, the details and the talent to produce such artwork are just inspiring.

Then we went to the post office for Kapitan Nina will be sending the postcards for herself (yes she is weird like that!) and for us. Then we told Nakim we can take care of ourselves, and we will just roam around on our own. He told us about his son who was sulking when he did not attend the school activity with him. So we told him to catch up with his son.

Thank you Nakim for the chance of knowing you.

We just walked around the nearby temple. Then roam around the Old Market.

Nina was looking for a currency exchange shop. She collects all denominations of the country she visited and she wanted riels. Just right along the street, there's a transparent shelf in public's view. There are thousands of dollars and riels just scattered around. We were amazed by how the shop owner just throws the money. Nina keep on sking for different riels and she wanted the crisp bills. Then he called someone. She said, "100 riel ay Php 5.00 sa atin." We shrieked in glee. A Pinay, Ate Miriam Pangket who teaches at Angkor University and does tutorials on her spare time for additional income. We talked and she shared that she came from Baguio. She and Xyza then started talking in Ilocano.

With Ate Miriam Pangket, our instant guide and party guru.

We're already famished and she brought us to her suking carenderia at the Old Market. She brought us to Angkor Famous resto, where the food is tasty and very affordable. She promised to meet us after her tutorials at 7:30PM. We tried the meat combo- consist of frog, crocodile and the usual chicken and pork barbecues.

The meat platter: chicken, pork, frog and crocodile. others serve with shark meat.
Shark meat is off our list.

Graffiti outside Angkor Famous Restaurant

We stayed for a while in the resto as one of the waiters took a great liking for Nina. Here's their exchange of lines:

Nina: "Can I use the toilet?
Waiter: " Toilet or me?"

Nina and her suitor. :D

When Nina relayed it to us, we could not stop laughing. It was reeking of ewww but he probably heard us earlier talking about the best pick up lines we can muster. I was telling Nina earlier, one subtle way to tell a guy you like him is when you ask him what he will like, "Coffee, tea or me?". now the waiter turned it around and used with comparing his usefulness to toilet!

When we asked for our bill, he motioned his heart shape one and ask Nina, "This too?" (Like asking, will you ask for my heart too?" Oh boy, it as one of the most crazy moment so far.

We keep on laughing while walking. We talked, laughed some more, haggled and killed some time. We noticed the fish spa here and wanted one for a pet. A fish that can do manicure and pedicure! We will buy if the fish can also apply nail polish. hahaha!

Nina needed to take another time at the loo and she did not want to go back to her new found love. So were about to take photos at the lovely reflection of the Christmas lights at the bridge when one guy asked, "Pinay?"

"Yes!" we exclaimed. Our nonstop talking really makes us easy to spot (aside from the identical fedora caps) Then he introduced himself. He is Kuya Oscar Sacramento, retired United Airlines employee who celebrated his birthday on the 18th. He's been going back to the place since 2012 (it's his third time already). We just sat on the bridge and shared travel stories. We laughed as he shared his adventures in different areas. He told us that the best way to learn is to travel. And always, in every work make yourself indispensable. Show them your capacity, make them respect you.

Meeting Tito Oscar and his antics and life's advice

Ate Miriam texted us that she is already at the resto. We invited Tito Oscar to come with us but he is already tired. So we trooped back to the Angkor Famous Resto and we're surprised she is not alone. They got a long table with other Pinoys there. Ate Theresa, the manager of the French pastry shop Blue Pumpkin, and 3 guys (one is the son of Ate Miriam, Janjan. Sorry I am bad with names, I forgot the other two- one is from General Santos) working as teachers and musicians and Czarina (Ate Miriam's niece who are also travelling in Siem Reap).

Bar hoping with these people. Who said you can't party with strangers?
We did and we think we attract wonderful strangers!.

After taking two beers (Angkor and Anchor), we hop around pubs where Filipino mmusicians play. We partied like there's no tomorrow. We danced the Gangnam style, occupied the dance floor and since nobody knew us there, we danced like crazy! We sang our hearts out and tried different drinks.

We feel like we're Cinderella, time is our nemesis. We're afraid for the clock to strike to 12 MN. No matter how beautiful the night is, fairytales end. We hesitantly said goodbye to Ate Miriam and Ate Theresa. They invited us to go back there next year, especially for the Water Festival on April (that coincides with our Holy Week). They contacted the tuktuk driver they knew to drive us to the guesthouse. We're taking the sleeper bus ($11 each) and someone will pick us up by 11:30PM.

Waiting for my roomie. That smile and the pretensions.

I reserved that sleeper bus thinking the picture shown to me means we will be getting an individual bed since it was a small one. This is not the case. Lesson Number 1: Do not Assume!
I was in bed already when other passengers are coming up that that small space will be shared by 2! Nina and Xyza were together. I on one hand have no idea who my "roommate" will be. Imagine the cramped space and the idea of sharing a bed with a stranger. I am afraid I'm already drunk, I smell and and I'm used to sleeping alone and I move a lot. I cannot pay for the space since the tickets have been sold already!And I am also on a budget.

The two gals are already teasing me. NIna already got his tadhana, probably I'll get mine here. HAHA! Then a couple came saying I got their bunk. I did not give in immediately. The conductor came and he told me I got the wrong bed. Instead of staying at 7B, it should be 1B. Then when I peered at 1B, there is already a guy who is occupying the other half of the bed. It is the most awkward, weirdest feeling. I was muttering under my breath, "Oh my ghad, this is sooo weird" I might not have the freshly bathed scent but I changed my shirt and put some powder. But still...I never dreamed about it. And I was silently praying that I will not have a smelly roomie.

Nina and Xyza never stopped teasing about me. "Beatch, basig lugoson na nimo ha!" I just laughed along. It was the most uncomfortable 6-hour ride of my life. There's another 3 Pinoy travelers (2 girls, 1 boy) that was on the same automobile that picked us up from the different guesthouses. The two girls were on the other side of the bunk and I was thinking one of the girls is the guy's girlfriend. I had a hard time sleeping.

By 3 AM we had a stop-over, supposedly to pee and refresh, but it is just in a middle of nowhere. The bus has no CR! The guys did their things on the bushes. I tried mouthwashing and wiping off dust (and saliva) from my face. I woke up Nina and Xyza and they started badgering me with questions with laughter in between. Then my roommie asked in Tagalog, "Saan po kayo?"

That broke the ice and the discomfort. In a span of remaining 40 minutes before arriving to Phnom Pehn, my roomie is no longer a stranger. He is Harold Jubinal, a reservations officer at one of the island 5-star resort and he is traveling to Phnom Penh for a job interview. And it turned out, he is also from Davao City and........ from Mintal in particular! (that's where I spent 4 years of my college years). Probably, we've meet already without us knowing. Mintal is a very small community.

I told him about my awkwardness, my silent and answered prayer to have a roomie who will not assail my nostrils. He laughed and laughed some more when fully understood the teasing from the two girls. He knew we are not full Cebuanos since the words we've been using were not too deep Bisaya. He surmised we are from Davao. Gut feel, he said. I told him that I assumed he is the boyfriend of the other Pinay in the other bunk. He laughed saying he's traveling alone. But his mom is working in Siem Reap for a marketing company. He shared his work experience in AmanPulo (one of the most expensive resorts in Palawan, where Hollywood celebrities have their getaways) and his search for greener pasture. He is a jolly young man and a gentleman.

When we arrived at Phnom Penh bus terminal, he helped us with our baggages. I wished him good luck.

It's funny how chance encounters connect us somewhere. From the group of Ate Miriam, we learned that people create a sense of family; a group of people can be binded with collective dream of good life and fighting homesickness, Tito Oscar taught us to be fearless and to be adventurous while we still got the energy for it. Harold taught me not to just settle. These people- they are the different faces of Pinoy Diaspora.

Chance encounters and strangers make traveling more worthwhile. Siem Reap, the temples were awesome, but the people you've been cradling are the best. Thank you for making it memorable. ♥

Why I decided to spend my Christmas holidays in Islamic States

2014-12-24T08:30:00.000+08:00

I just had my adrenaline-fix from the adventures in Vietnam and Cambodia but I am finding myself in Jakarta (Indonesia) and will be in Kuala Lumpur and Johor Bahru (Malaysia) for the next two weeks.

I am not boasting and I am not travelling for travel's sake. So why I am doing it on a holiday which is supposed to be a family event?

Christmas holidays should be spent with the family, tradition say. It is not just about shopping for material gifts but really spending quality time with our family.
What and who is family? People close to me by now know I got other concepts of 'family". Close friends knew why.

Family is not just your mother, father, sisters and your immediate family. Family is where you find kindred souls who support you and know you well despite the bad things thrown at you. Family is the people who love you unconditionally.

My immediate women-led family.

Also when holidays come, the questions though well-meaning is also tactless. "So when are you getting married?" or "Why are you still single?". Imagine yourself being asked these every year. These questions are not necessarily from my immediate family. Nonetheless this always make me cringe.

I grow up independently and I owe my fearlessness to try new things with my maternal grandmother. She wanted me to be open-minded. I took that courage with me and explored areas beyond our little town. I know if she is alive now, she will understand. She will have tampo but she will understand and will support me. She was our peacekeeper. The sad thing is, the small piece of land she left is now a subject of a family feud. I have been taking care of the tax payments and keep some documents so that made me a stakeholder. Not that I am interested to sell the land in the future. I hold on to it as it is a memory of my grandparents. And there is where I spent my childhood.

As the "single and mature" one, some members of the family wanted me to solve the feud and make plans to "develop" the said land. Developing the land takes time and money! And I am not investing my hard-earned money to it as there are a lot of interested parties. I know how land feud can be very bloody, literally and figuratively. I have enough headache already.

At this point, I don't want to act mature and solve the problems of their own doing. I wanted to have a stress-free holiday. So when I asked my soul sister Nur Hasanah in Jakarta if the offer to stay with her in Jakarta is still open and she said a big YES, I checked for flights and booked it without any second thoughts. I met Nur through our 3-week fellowship in Wageningen and our sisterhood was strengthened by our common love for travelling and getting out of the norm. She also introduced me to Counchsurfing and she already visited me in Davao last year. Her post was prophetic telling me that the next jumpshot picture we should have will be in her turf.

From Wageningen, Netherlands to Davao City (Davao del Sur) and Dahican, Mati City (Davao Oriental), the crazy Asian partners in crime (Nur Hasanah and I) are reunited and jumping around!! Last posted in my FB account in August 2013.

Things are falling according to its place. And before my passport expires, I want to maximise it as the renewal process will surely take long. I promise to help out my sister settle That land problem in January. I will take a rest as I will be taking new refresher classes for my MA class. And career-wise, there are exciting things coming.
I want to experience this Christian holiday in a predominantly Islamic country. Get lost and find myself. I want to make a sense of the feeling how to become a minority in this long Christian holiday and see how they do it in other parts of Asia. I wanted to be uprooted in my comfort zone. Besides, is this not the best way to start the ASEAN 2015 Economic Integration work? I'd like to think I am an ambassador of goodwill. haha!
I will try to keep up with my odd-ventures here (though blog posts with the previous trips still unfinished).

"A single event can awaken within us a stranger totally unknown to us. To live is to be slowly born. ― Antoine de Saint-Exupéry"

I don't question my immediate family's love for me, but there are things they cannot just comprehend. Like the idea of continuing further education, the idea of travelling and the "expenses" one incur. Why not invest it to somewhere else or with something tangible? They could not understand why I am in an NGO and not "settle for a more stable government work." I already invested in something tangible and travelling is an investment too. It makes you more confident and see things in different perspectives. And besides I spend my own money for my travels. This is always a subject I don't want to talk about when I go home but always crop up in the conversations. I got tired of explaining.

Then by big chance, another friend I met through the Courchsurfing site will be in Jakarta and he invited me to spend the other half of my holiday break in Malaysia. I was supposed to host him in Davao but he was not able to obtain a visa in time. I got another Couchsurifng gal, Azra Ain to host me in Kuala Lumpur.

Cheers for a great year ahead of us! Merry blessed CHRISTmas! Do not forget the real reason for this season. And let's create more stories together. :)

Day 2. The Temple Run Tour

2014-12-17T01:02:00.002+08:00

We started our day early, woke up at 4AM and started our troop to this famous structure. We fell in line and waited eagerly for Mr. Sun to come out. I’ve done it once in Kiltepan, Sagada but the throng of tourists here are unparalleled!

Humanity's craving to glimpse heaven for a while.

The sunrise and the gaping massive crowd are just overwhelming. Tourists come here in thousands. I am amazed by the sturdiness of this century-old structure and how withstand not just battles but foremost, the onslaught of tourists.

A day tour will cost you $20 including a free photo-op at the entrance. Hightech sila teh. And we assure you, one will be enough exercise for your legs. It is definitely Temple Run game in reality. Dili lalim mubaktas, musaka ug mag-ambak-ambak sa mga temple oi!

Splendid reflection snapped at noon

I love the movement of the monk's robe. Saw him when we're about to leave Angor Wat.

Old buildings like this make me emotera.

I was about to walk when this young lady with her mom came.
This shot reminded me of the story about Narcissus and the Goddesses.

Funny combination for a table in a resto at Angkor Wat

This kid along other kids were catching fishes in the mud.
He gladly posed for us.

Angkor is undergoing renovation as most of the bass relief has been touched by thousands of humans and owing to climactic changes too. There are already cracks in the wall drawing. The tour for Angkor Wat itself will take you a half day. And it’s a hot day so prepare to have those towels and handkerchief and your water.We decided to take our lunch at the resto near the Leper King Terrace. Nakim knows the owner of the resto and he helped us out ordering local dish.

At the entrance of Ta Phrom

After eating, we continued the tour. We went to Prasat Ta Phrom or the Jungle Temple. Or as a new branding for moviegoers, it is now more known as the Tomb Raider Temple, where Angelina Jolie shot her action-packed movie. This is where nature has taken over the structures. There is also a hospital built here. There is a sense of co-existence yet an eerie hostility of struggle between the trees and the bricks, not measured by minutes but in centuries.

Notice the faces in the towers.

Bayon Tempe. It links heaven and earth.

mirror image

Home

Angkor Wat is a whole complex of three temples built to honor Vishnu. It is first a Hindu temple and later on, became a Buddhist one. It is a symbol of the country, and appears on its flag. The Angkor Thom complex covers around 400 square kilometers with temples, hydraulic structures like the reservoirs, basins, dikes and communication routes. The Angkor Wat, Bayon, Preah Khan and Ta Phrom show us the grandeur of Khmer architecture. It was built by King Jayawarman II and served as the capital of the Khmer Empire until the 15^th century.

It is named as Angkor from the Sanskrit word meaning City or Capital. King Jayawarman II declared himself as the “universal monarch” or “God King”. But there was a rebellion in 1431 by Ayutthaya causing its population to migrate. The influence of the Khmer empire stretched up to the border of neighboring country called as Siam (Thailand). If you have been to Ayutthaya in the Chao Phraya River Plain of Thailand, you will notice the similarities with the Angkor. Ayutthaya became a new central power while Angkor’s central empire control diminished. The similarities in both structures showed slavery has a role. One reference in Ayutthaya wrote that it was migrant Khmer peasants and slaves who worked on Ayutthaya, explaining the influence.

Then we continued the walk to the Bayon Temple where you can find the temple heads carved in 54 towers. This temple is dedicated for the Buddhists wherein you can find the four faces of the Bodhisattva (enlightened being) Avalokiteśvara (“Being who looks down” and it can either be male or female). Its eyes are downcast, bearing broad forehead, big nostrils and thick lips that curl, making that half-smile. It is also the center of the Angkor Thom complex and serves as the “symbolic link between heaven and earth.”

There’s a long line of walls and another temple before going to the Leper King’s Terrace. I am too exhausted while Nina and Xyza want to explore the outskirts. I decided to walk alone and go directly to the King’s Terrace. There are a lot of temple workers who were taking their break. Most do not speak in English but one old woman worker grimaced when one tourist came up at the stairs with her plunging sleeves top and bra already showing. She motioned to her companion and her companion shook her head.

The last stop for me is the Leper King Terrace. Why the name? It refers to the statue of a Leper King at the terrace, seated with his right knee raised. It is naked and it is considered unusual in Khmer art. Some historians said it is Javanese-style.Is the king a leper? One account said that Jayavarman VII was a leper that is why he built a lot of hospitals during his reign. But there is no historical record for such, while other accounts the said figure represents the God of Wealth, Kubera.

I am still waiting for those two and Nakim is nowhere in sight. So I just followed a path at the back and I chanced upon a local artists who’s doing his finishing touches for his sunset artworks. I tried conversing with him but he said, “no no English!” and pointed to her daughter-in-law for the prices if I want to purchase his work. I said I don’t have much money and I don’t have a house yet where to hang those lovely artworks. I just sat there and looked while he painted. He keep on smiling and laughed. He motioned for me to come closer and look at the details. I am amazed by how he mixes the colors. He said (through his daughter-in-law translating) that he draws from memory of the Angkor Thom and adds other details. He grew up watching the sunrise and sunset there and never left the place. He smiled saying he hopes his grandson will be able to see the magnificent view from his childhood.

I thanked him for his time and walked to find a shade while waiting for Nakim. Found him under the tree with an English dictionary at hand. He is polishing his English language skills, he said with a laugh. We talked about the next day’s plan and other options. We had enough of the temples and he recommended going to the Silkworm Farm. It’s quite far and that would entail additional rent for his tuktuk. And I prefer to check out the downtown area. He suggested we can go to the Tonle Lake, artisan shop then downtown tour. I said that’s brilliant. I just sat at the back of the tuktuk and watched people passing by. I’m seeing kids on their bikes heading home after school. The dogs are lazing around, their fur already color red from the dust.

The two gals arrived and our day does not end here. We went back to the Angkor to catch the sunset. The sunset is usually depicted in artworks and postcards setting behind the main Angkor Wat temple. The sun rises there, yes so the sun sets at the other side, in front of the temple, at the bridge and another inland lake. Looking at the sun on its last hours of splendor, changing the colors in the horizon..that's one great way to end this real Temple Run scene.

We reserved a dinner buffet and Apsara show at the Amazon Angkor Restaurant. The owner of the Happy Guesthouse brought us the (and also picked us up at the resto. Very humble guy!) It is for $10 for a buffet dinner to serve a large group of tourist. The chicken amok is great and they also serve other dishes like Japanese and Italian. The food is not shabby nor super exceptional. But the dance is another story. .

The Apsaras, is a female spirit of the clouds and waters in the Hindu and Buddhist mythology. It is a dance- drama. It is a flowing sensuous dance with feathery movement. It is well restraint with the controlled knee and toes and splaying of the fingers. While doing this, the neck and the shoulder remain erect, giving a sense of serenity.

Also apsara is everywhere in the temples. The dances were used to hold at the temples too. But now, well because of tourism it is now in the restaurants and marketplaces. They also performed theatrical traditional dances like the good harvest dance (like our own “maglalatik”) and the romantic fishing dance depicting the rural life of Cambodia.

We went back to the hostel with big grins on our faces.

Day 1: Longest Bus Trip. Saigon Direct to Siem Reap

2014-12-06T00:37:00.001+08:00

“Of all the books in the world, the best stories are found between the pages of a passport.”

Fedora Cap Girls arrived in Ho Chi Minh.

For several days I AM A MILLIONAIRE BABY!

Kuya Rene, his wife and Rene Jr.

Rene shared the Goldilock's polvoron his granny gave him. Such a sweetie!

Ema is not thrilled to see us. Stranger anxiety!

Crossing the border of Vietnam and Cambodia

The number of motorbikes are overwhelming.

I like how bicycles thrive here. Kids go to school in bikes!

No the cows and the elephant are not real!

The altars in front of the house for blessings from the spirits

That's us with our friendly and reliable tuktuk driver, Mr. Nakim!

Contact Nakim if you will find yourself in Siem Reap.
Tell him of three fedora cap crazy girls and he will surely giggle. :)

The chill-out zone of HAPPY GUESTHOUSE!
Highly recommended place. Affordable. Very friendly staff. Organized info on all transport services.

Even cats know how to chill here!

We arrived at midnight in Tan Son Nhat International Airport Terminal 2. We have to wait at sunrise to go to the bus terminal going to Siem Reap. It will be a 12-hour grueling travel so we decided to take naps at the bench. It is my first time to sleep on the bench in the airport! We woke up at quarter to 5AM and the Sapaco Bus scheduled trip going to Siem Reap leaves at 6AM! And we can’t see any taxi. I’ve read several travel blogs and they only recommend VinaSun or Mai Linh. I tried calling their call center but it was a disaster. We’ve been talking for 10 minutes, but we can’t understand each other. I hang up when this taxi driver approached us. It is from the Saigon Tourist Taxi and we are quite adamant to take it but time is running fast. In simple English, we told him we need to go to Sapaco Terminal at 325 Pham Ngu Lao St, District 1. He nodded. Yes he understands.

We were already inside when he kept on talking on the phone, I suspected he was asking for directions. After paying the 1,000 Vietnamese dong (VND) toll fee, he stopped in a taxi’s line outside the airport. There were a lot of them there waiting! And he turned us over into another driver with a bigger taxi. We couldn’t understand it at first, alarmed when our bags are being transferred. Then the other driver explained that he got a customer waiting downtown so he will take us instead. Phew! It would take 15-20 minutes going to the bus terminal but since it is almost 6AM, the driver assured us he will get us there in time and he truly drove fast. And we’re too amazed he got the latest iPhone 6 at that! Aba sosyal si kuya! And he’s very helpful, even to a point of teaching me how to count properly the Vietnamese Dong in paying taxis.

We got on the bus terminal on time, purchased tickets and put our luggage. We are on our seats when the bus conductor asked for us passports. Still sleepy, we’re too slow to get the instructions. Then the man behind us talked to us in Tagalog. “Tandaan niyo yung conductor ng bus. Siya ang magbibigay niyan sa border. (Remember the bus conductor. They will be the ones who will give that to the border (patrols)"“ Holy kamote! Here is Kuya Renato (surname withheld) and his family. I remembered he was also in our flight from Manila. He lives in Phnom Penh for 11 years now and married a Khmer woman and they got an 8-year old son, Rene. His wife paid for our toilet usage since it is cheaper for locals and he helped us in the queue on crossing the border. He explained to us the process in crossing the border. There are bills attached to the passport. Lagay ba. Corruption is rampant. Hindi lang sa atin unique yan! In broad daylight, you can see compromises made in the name of convenience.

We stopped at one of the eateries after the border and Rene started saying “Kakain!” We laughed. He only knows Tagalog words like “kain”, “Tubig”, “tulog”. Kuya Rene hails from Lucena, Quezon and they went home to the Philippines for a month-long vacation. His son laughed at us when we could not understand the lady at the resto charging us “One dollah!”. He kept on imitating the lady’s voice and laughs. The one dollar is for the cold towel offered to us during lunch and we thought it was a complement from the bus company!

Kuya Rene gave us the number of Ate Grace, one of his friends in Siem Reap who is also from Davao and now works as a teacher there.

When we arrived in Phnom Penh, we have to transfer into a local bus company. We arranged earlier to meet Marj and her adorable baby Ema Ayeesha. Several of our friends and her sister sent padalas of clothes and vitamins. Marj is my college housemate and after- college roommate and she now lives in Phomn Penh with her chuwariwap. Goddamn this woman, how can she give birth to a child and still look like a teen-ager? Aside from the chatter on motherhood, she's still the good 'ol crazy roommate I knew. Ema was shocked probably by the onslaught of kisses from strangers that she wailed. Later Marj texted me that Ema was so anxious and also very hungry. We will be staying with them after two days and surely, Ema will see our awesome tita yaya skills.

We bade goodbye to Kuya Renato and his family. Also to Marj and her crying princess. We still have another 6 hours ride to Siem Reap and we were running late for an hour. We didn’t give some extra cash in the border so our passports were processed late. We are passing the countryside full of dark brown earth and thick dust that resembles the roads when you pass the towns of Carrascal and Claver in Surigao del Sur. Do they have mining also here?

Then we stopped in another eatery for merienda and hygienic needs. I noticed they got this altar in front of their houses and businesses. It is like our own tambara and there is an offering for the spirits for good luck.

We arrived in Siem Reap at half past 9pm. We already booked our accommodation with Happy Guesthouse with the help of Marj. She texted me that the bus terminal address where we will be arriving was incomplete so I need to call the hostel in order for them to gie instructions to the tuktuk driver who will fetch us. My cheapskate self is already worried of the several roaming texts I’ve been sending earlier and I’ve been scolding myself for not buying a local sim first thing at the border.

We’re beaten tired and everyone is rearing to get off the bus when a young man alongside other drivers holds a bond paper with my name on it. Oh Thank you God! Our tuktuk driver’s name is Mr. Nakim and his female friend Sophie tagged along. Sophie is trying to practice her English and we tried to make conversations with her. It is just a short ride from the Old Market to Happy Guesthouse, a homey hostel nestled at the center of a backpacker’s area! We arranged the next day’s tour that will start at 5AM with Nakim then checked in at the hostel.

After washing up, we decided to walk around. It’s a countdown to midnight for Nina’s birthday. We found a Hawaiian Pizza House and meet Ah Ti Juju. It is a family-owned business and he happily took our orders of noodles, tea, coconut shake (as recommended by another diner). There is no available cake so we ordered their house delight pizza and requested for candles. Ah Ti apologized since they only got one large candle. We told him it's okay; we will even accept vigil candle. After eating, they took out the pizza and the other local diners joined us in singing Happy Birthday. Ah Ti made us a generous helping of pizza and put some effort making a flower-shaped tomato on top and he managed to find more candles.

HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY BIRTHDAY KAPITAN! STAY AWESOME. :)

Nina is beaming, happy despite the lost Tab along the way (she can’t still figure out how and where she lost it). We just consoled her that probably the spirits wanted an offering. I lost my cellphone pouch and Xyza lost their office logbook. In life, we need to lose something in order to know its value (or non-value) and to be able to regain something better. I hope I can easily say this is also applicable to our love lives. #H U G O T! Eeeeeek! :D

Let’s choose to be happy instead of what we have. We can replace material things but not the memories and stories

We hope to create great memories here. And we're looking forward for the sunrise. ♥ ♡♥

Before the Trip Hullabaloo

2014-12-04T08:30:00.002+08:00

My week leave (Nov. 18-20) coincided with our 4 major activities! As we were making our organization’s plans, I was guilty for taking a leave in one of the busiest week. But this trip is already planned way ahead. I just never filed my leave earlier. But some of my colleagues already knew of my plans. Thankfully, I got a very supportive Deputy Country Manager and colleagues who know the tenacity of my Dora-like adventures. Travelling is a need. It invigorates me and for the past months, I was lost. I need a breather.

I made the necessary arrangements prior to the said events. I made all the checklists. And even on the day of my flight, I was still confirming guests for the forum launching in Cotabato. There was an input on conflict-sensitive resettlement (which is quite crucial for my planned MA thesis), trip of our Regional Area Manager and another forum at Asian Institute of Management (AIM).

And to top it all, Manins asked me to check possible itineraries and also updated hotel bookings and addresses! The preparations were in a daze. Months before it, we thought it was still far only to realize it is now around the corner. We crammed and panicked thinking of possible mishaps. When can I have a stress-free travel? But then again, we thrive in stress. We survive stress

Just last night as we were trying to add additional baggage, CebuPac’s website decided to be crappy. I only got 2 hours of sleep and there are people who just love to burst your happy bubble. I could make a nasty response but then I realize, we have to be prepared when things go wrong as we planned. I try to remember the goodness of other colleagues who are willing to take the burden of the work I will be leaving. We have to acknowledge that while we don’t have any hold of other people’s attitude, we can choose how to react.

Airport Drama by AJ Efondo
Photo source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ajefondo/3012514813/

Airports are one long waiting game. I arrived from Davao at 12NN. Flight to Ho Chi Minh is at 10:50PM. I detest airports before as I associated it with tears and long goodbyes with loves ones. I never liked going to airport every time my mom goes back to Hongkong as OFW when I was young. Anyway, my work and these itchy feet gave me opportunities and I had made my peace with this place.

As I was lounging around, killing time when this young lady approached me. Janeth (surnamed withheld) , a 3^rd year BSEd Values Education approached me and tried to sell a beads keychain she made to support her studies. I am wary of these rackets; I know of an organization that requires its members “quotas” and the holidays are fast approaching. Janeth is nice and sincere. We talked for a while about the difficulty of balancing time for studies and finding some money to sustain the drill of getting a degree. She’s quite good in doing the marketing of her beads and approaching strangers requires a lot of guts and of course, self- confidence. She left and I have this on my hand:

Philippine-flag shaped bead keychain.

Then I continue reading Kafka on the Shore when an elderly woman, in her 50s approached me and asked if I was a frequent traveler. I said yes. She asked if I can help her and older sister regarding their flight to Kalibo.It's their first time. They were looking for the check-in counter. It is just 5:15PM and their flight is at 9:05PM. They traveled from Tagaytay and they got 2 big bags. They showed me their ticket and they got no check-in luggage. I told them they can purchase a prepaid baggage but they insisted that the person whom they purchased the ticket that they can just check-in their bags! Of course you can do it but with an exorbitant fee of P200/ kl and their bags is beyond 20 kgs, while you can only pay half of the price if you got a prepaid one. I convinced them and we marched to Cebu Pacific’s office but we were stopped. We missed the 4-hour before the flight purchase time limit by just a hairline (10 minutes). Sales office said sorry and they are strict with the time. Oh the irony of it (you know flight carriers are known for always being delayed but they are strict and will charge you several bucks for just being late for a minute). I wanted to raise my eyebrows. I was just there earlier when I purchased an add-on baggage and there was a long queue of disgruntled customers for the late advisory of cancelled flights to Tugegarao (2 flights) and Caticlan. Missed the time limit by the dot? I would really understand the guideline when there is an equal strict rule imposition when they also cause so much inconvenience with the passengers.

We all fall for this.

I am grateful for these flight carriers, Cebu Pacific for one for its annual promos (Pisofare and holiday discounts) but it seems these promos make us accept the crappy customer service as the collateral. And it is no wonder that another passenger break all loose when he demanded for his lost baggage. The ground crews said it was in another flight only to find out it was just left in the check-in lane. And it is not helping when these crews, just shrug their shoulders telling the passenger nonchalantly, “You can go home sir. We will just deliver it.” There is no time or date and when the passenger needs it badly, expect the curses. It is in these situations that a person who can empathize and communicate well is needed. Acknowledge the anger and the inconvenience your company caused and as its employee, you will do all what you can do to resolve it. Imagine the hassle of going thrice to the airport for the lost luggage in the midst of hurting traffic. Take responsibility. Company image is built not with just the promos, magazines and press releases. It is foremost, built by the employees to whom the passengers talk to. We know they are outsourced, employed through an agency and most of the time, they couldn't care less. Workers who are bonded by commitment and benefits will work efficiently. Contractualization, hiring employees through agencies lessens the burden from the employer. as they are no longer held liable for employee benefits like paid annual leaves, retirement benefits. And we have seen again and again how the employer-employee- customer relations have been strained.

I am not singling out Cebu Pacific here. I had my own share of whole-fucked-up-terminal-waiting-game experience with Philippine Airlines (PAL) last month. But nothing can compare to the no unfriendly passenger scenarios with CebuPac. Take note that because the tube used in ferrying passengers during boarding is paid, it is not used. Instead, everyone is asked to go down the long flight of stairs. That's very unfriendly especially to differently-abled passengers and mothers with children. My older sister's plight is worth telling. She got 2 kids in tow; flights were delayed until midnight and no assistance was given and no information when exactly they will be flying. And oh just last week, they lost one of my colleagues who is a frequent CebuPac flyer. There was a crack on one of the windows and they only realized it after they have already flown. They have to go back and the handling was nightmarish. There are still more stories of course of these crappy services we get. We can choose to boycott them but with only 2 airline carriers we have, do we have that much choice? I hope this ASEAN 2015 economic integration can really boost the competition and make these two airline companies improve their services.

Flight to Manila

Flight back to Davao.
ooooh sunset, how I love thee changing colors of the skies.

As our midnight flight to Ho Chi Minh is being called I heaved a big sigh of relief. The idea of flying over the clouds with the huge seascape underneath gives me a sense of freedom. Those fluffy white clouds remind me of cotton candies and warm childhood ceremonies. To fly on air is to dream. To wander and stay youthful. Truly Peter Pan knew how light one can be and to see the landscape in a macro perspective. And when I fly, I closed and my eyes and left the baggages of the long day at the terminal. So long worries.

Meet the Backpackers of Vietnam-Cambodia Trip

2014-12-02T13:08:00.004+08:00

This is Ma. Nina Regina Quibod. The birthday girl.

The Fedora Cap Girls!

We embarked on an 8-day trip from Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh (Cambodia). Read the next articles and let us share our story. :)

Nina, Ninya or Kapitan is a wildlife biologist, a lover of bats and a certified noisy traveler. I call her Manins or Kibodsky, Our first trip together was in Bangkok last 2012. It was our first Asian trip and our first time to travel together for her birthday. I booked the flights, she paid for it. I got a Couchsurfer friend said yes to host us both. I regaled her of my “travel agent’s skills’ only to realize too late she only got 3 days there as the flight back time is at midnight! I was embarrassed for the said booking mishap but Nina maximized her stay visiting temples.
Manins is a loner sometimes; She will disappear for several minutes because she's engrossed with other little details in the place you're visiting. She's a ratpack too. She collects postcards (and sends one for herself) and currencies in all denominations of each country she visits.

We have no strict itineraries and we like countryside trips. Being on the field for so long had taught us to love spontaneity. We have known each other for 10 years now and gladly, we have survived each other beyond college.

This is our second trip together since we already proved that we can survive each other in Bangkok. For this trip, we booked the flight as early as September last year on the much awaited Pisofare promo of CebuPac. In the middle of the night, I got a call from her of her plans and I am a kaladkarin (willing to be dragged). Besides she’s a willing sponsor. This trip has kept us excited for rest of the year.

This is Fei Xyza Asuncion. She’s a friend of Nina and we only met personally on the day of our flight to Ho Chi Minh. She texted me while I was charging my phone at one of the columns in Terminal 3.On the first glance, I knew we can travel together. Nina with her super busy schedule totally forgot to introduce us but it was an instant hit of talk and laughter between us. She’s sweet and has been mistaken as Cambodian when we crossed the border. She takes pictures of every food we partake.

And meet me, Dora and my pack. My backpack has been with me for 5 years now and I joke that my relationship with my backpack is even longer than my romantic ones. HAHA. Okay let's sing:

♫ ♪ Backpack, Backpack! I'm The Backpack Loaded Up With Things And Knickknack's Too. Anything That You Might Need I Got Inside For You. Backpack, Backpack! ♫ ♪

They say, you will learn a lot from a person when you lived with them and when you travel with them. You will know your idiosyncrasies and attitude that can either be endearing or very annoying. And it is best to really have a travel buddy who has the same personality like yours. Gladly, Nina and I have surpassed that. And Xyza is also a no-fuss traveler.

Dwarves in the Island of the Giants

2014-08-03T10:00:00.000+08:00

Restless feet syndrome, I don't need any cure.

Isla de Gigantes. Literally the Island of the Giants. It consists of about ten islands; with the two largest are Gigantes Norte (North Gigantes) and Gigantes Sur (South Gigantes).

The agenda of the trip to this hidden paradise is the team assessment of the TFM- HEKS Shelter Project and I (together with Ken) just joined. But since we're also Ilonggos, it's very easy mingling with the group. Our two-hour boat ride to the Isla from Estancia Port was full of laughter. We are all first timers and we can't wait for the adventure.

These cute puppy and its aggressive mom who doesn't want to be photographed

Entrance of Bakwitan/ Pawikan Cave

Longon: wooden coffin

Tugkay. It is a chicken or a maya? :p

The next itinenary is to Bakwitan Cave. Mambubulong (shamans) go here to collect balinsasayaw eggs to mix in their medicine concoctions. In olden times people believed that engkantos dwell in the cave and you can request and borrow any material thing. But this was lost when humans broke their promises with the engkanto such as the time of returning the borrowed items.
Some said it was called as Pawikan Cave because of the egg-shaped rock formation at the end of the chamber. Our guide said that it was also believed that these marker resembling giant turtle eggs was used by the Japanese for the treasures. Today, this egg-shape marker disappeared when a lot of treasure hunters for the infamous Yamashita Treasure came. It left several digging inside the cave. There are also a lot vandals made by some tourists and locals whose sense of "achievement" is to see their name on the walls. Such vanity and idiocy.

If you would like to explore the island and try a different adventure, you can stay at Gigantes Dwelling Place and Contact these very hospitable and knowledgeable people: Rene (based in Bacolod)- 0939. 893. 0248/ 0917.463.9470 or Margie: 0946.2850.457 or Neknek (0998.164.2588).

Urban legend says there was a giant called Tay-og who fell in love with a beautiful maiden but this maiden was abducted and killed by the pirates. In grief, Tay-og threw all the things he saw forming the islets. Another version is there was a couple of giants who lived there and the islets were there children (or the place where their children lived). The other version is, two giants a couple, fell out of love then started throwing rocks to each other forming the islets. This version is quite violent but it made me laugh so hard. They don't have divorce yet at that time. :p

A mountain of scallops

However, this cave is now called as Bakwitan Cave as this also served as an evacuation site during World War II and last Typhoon Yolanda. There were three families who sought refuge in the wide spacious chambers of the cave during the onslaught of the strong winds. .

Considered the Scallop Capital of Visayas, you will not be surprised with the high pile (a mountain) of scallop shells in different colors and sizes at the shoreline. During the 80s, when the scallop industry boomed, thousands of tonnes are delivered every day to Iloilo and Cebu. Now, after several typhoons and with not much other livelihood alternative, the harvest dwindled. Scallops are just sold for P140 per kilo here. Since you don't get it cheap most of the time, try the different ways it is cooked- fried (scallop omelette), grilled or steamed.

Electricity is just from 6PM up to 5AM the next day. So expect the wailing from the neighborhood videoke from sundown to midnight. There is no cellphone signal so for those who are regularly monitored by their partners, you've been warned.

We arrived late so we spent the night drinking and telling stories and some music swapping with Marcus, the Dutch supervisor of HEKS. The next day is our trip to the parola (lighthouse). But Ken and I was too busy talking to Miss Margie of Dwelling Place, a homestay type inn on the other side who shared to us stories and tourism mishap in the area. She shared how the supposedly tourism budget was misdirected by a former tourism officer and spent on the private resort he owns now, which ironically where we're booked. In the spirit of fairness, I wanted to interview the owner of Hideaway Inn but he's not around at that time.

The next stop after breakfast is the Cabugao Gamay Island. You can climb the rocks to have a vantage point of the island and neighboring islets. The combination of wide emerald green and dark to light blue seawater will surely make you say, "Ahhhh this is paradise's lost!' :D

Then we went to Antonia Beach for a game of volleyball, snorkeling, eating of wasay-wasay (another kind of shellfish you can eat soaked in vinegar) and drinking! Here in Antonia Beach, you can see rocks formed and balanced in unlikely ways, and suspended and looking like an installation art.

But there is nothing much to see underwater for snorkeling. The corals are dead for the relentless dynamite fishing. There is another group of filthy rich tourists who came with their speedboats and arrogance. Sad but the sea and its fishes are bound to dwindle with the dynamite fishing. And with tourism as possible alternative livelihood, you have to offer a better seascape. And farming (whether container or other parts of the island with agricultural potential) should be considered as an additional source of income. There is not much vegetables in the area so don't expect much greens for your fish tinola or scallop soup.

As much as we would like to stay for another night but we have to go back Jaro. Another companion has a flight back to Manila and Jan-jan, one of the student interns was stung by the jellyfish. Also heavy rain started and we have to get back to the Hideaway Inn for our things.

The end of this trip is even more adventurous. Heavy rain and strong winds made us all wet, (mga basang sisiw) and quiet. No one wanted to sit in front of the boat, except Marissa and I. And we have to contend with all of the waves spilling inside the boat. This whole affair with the (un)predictable weather made us call on the Almighty for safety and protection. Our saving grace? Prayers, our skilled boatmen and the large cellophane bag to keep all of our things dry.

Isla de Gigantes is full of potential in terms of research and archaeological find. And if I only have a lot of resources at my disposal, I wanted to stay longer here. Well, another island out of 1,707 islands in this blessed archipelago that we're able to explore. And we're blessed to set our foot here and return in Iloilo unscathed.

Capiz: Shelter and Rebuilding Lives after Typhoon Yolanda

2014-08-02T16:10:00.001+08:00

New day. New beginning.

Our boatman to another barangay.

Today's catch.

Typhoons Ondoy. Sendong. Pablo. Yolanda. Glenda.

These are the names of the most destructive typhoons out of the regular 19 tropical cyclones/ storms that enter the Philippine Area of Responsibility annually.

And every year, we lament on the impact of disasters saying we are ill-prepared. And worse? We will be hearing stories of rotting rice in the warehouses and corruption in the construction of new homes. Time and again, we know that fraud and corruption are high in an emergency phase as the urgency and rapid inflows of aid can weaken the institution (and more so if it is already weak). Also, this will challenge coordination work between agencies to ensure all affected areas are covered- not too many relief in one area while those outside of the center are forgotten.

Take Typhoon Yolanda. For its magnitude of destruction last year, we received a lot of foreign aid (in cash and pledges). The government made a website of FAiTh, or the Foreign Aid Transparency Hub where foreign countries, multilateral organizations, NGOs, private individuals and anonymous donors are posted. Great initiative I think but here's the catch: You can't download the reports per aid. You can download the full report but you can't open it!

Remember the scandal hounding Department of Social Welfare and Development (DSWD) Region XI through its Kapit Bisig Laban sa Kahirapan-Comprehensive Integrated Delivery of
Social Services (Kalahi-CIDSS) report of forging of signatures and other anomalies on

construction of houses for Typhoon Pablo survivors? Do we need another disaster before we

get our acts together? Or how many more disasters do we need to be able to strengthen our

coordination work?

Creation of shelters is the first priority of families. because shelter is anchored on rootedness and sense of normalcy. Building new homes then should be durable (can withstand Signal #3 typhoon), comfortable and provide privacy for the family. It is not just about distributing money like P5,000 or GI sheets. It will entail a different community reorganizing wherein skilled labor and distribution of materials and other logistics have to be considered. We have a lot of indigenous materials like amakan and bamboo for rebuilding homes. In fact George Bankoff on his book, Cultures of Disaster in the Philippines, argued that our construction of nipa houses are a part of our adaptation for the disasters that we face annually.

My dear friend Mel was assigned to undertake the supervision of the Shelter Project in Capiz in partnership with HEKS (Hilfswerk der Evangelischen Kirchen Schweiz, the aid organization of the Protestant Churches of Switzerland). Task Force Mapalad, the local NGO conduit made an assessment and found out that Capiz Province specifically coastal towns in Capiz Province have not received any aid nor much media attention. Focus was in Tacloban, Leyte and Samar. So they started the work and after five months, they have now built 1, 817 houses in Panay (Brgy. Butacal, and Brgy. Bantigue), President Roxas (Brgy.Dulungan, Brgy. Binaobawan and Brgy. Rosario), Dao (Brgy. Manhoy, Brgy. Quinayoya, Doyuc and Matagnop), and Pontevedra (Brgy. Manapao).

Old and new braces. Rebuilding homes.

The shelter project made use of amakan (woven bamboo walls) and GI sheets but with additional braces (diagonal braces) for the roof and strengthened the posts by putting cement and iron braces. Workers are from the community and labor is a counterpart from each family. And the house including labor only costs P25,000 each. A far cry with the P550,00 bunkhouse made in Cateel by DSWD. Though Sec. Soliman said it was due to bigger floor area and more materials needed. Let's suspend judgement then until COA report will be released (when? We do not know exactly!). All I can say is, it's very appalling when the government agency and institutions you expect to help in bringing back the communities better will even victimize twice the victims.

For the turn-over ceremony, we went to Brgy. Binaobawan and stayed there for the night. We were greeted by laughing kids and smiling mothers. The program the next day started with a boat ride going to another barangay and sharing of food among different sitios and neighboring barangays, dancing and games. And boy, I never wanted to leave. The crabs, shrimps, sasing (seaworm) and tikhan (seashells) will always leave you wanting for more.

The people here know they will never be truly safe from more disasters coming. Relocation is not just about leaving and going to another place. Livelihood, memories and a familiar place are part of living. And in their case, they have started in-site relocation and rebuilt their homes to locations that are still near their livelihood, ready to face whatever the next day's challenge will be.

The mothers think I am crazy. :)

Orange is the new black. Bounty from Brgy. Bantigue.

Women taking charge.

Contrary to popular belief, Ricky Martin lives and now serves as Board Member in Capiz. O_0

Fried sasing (seaworm)

Lukon.

Tikhan (seashell), another seashell you can eat.

Dance and movement is a therapy for young and old alike.

Sexual allusions.
Eggplant and box of matchsticks (egg is impractical) race.

Bohol: Charm between the Rubble

2014-08-02T13:28:00.000+08:00

It took me some time to write about our adventure in Bohol. Got all tangled up in the busy world of work and I lost my notebook. When I travel I always have a small notebook for doodles, thoughts and what-nots. And this is the first time I lost one for a long time. Darn!

So what can I say with Bohol?

As the whole world knows, Bohol suffered the 7.2 magnitude earthquake. I and Liezl, my perennial travel buddy and together with the new recruit Boni went there during the Holy Week. Liezl's elder sister, Ate Leah worked in Tagbiliran City (Bohol's capital) for Save the Children. After the earthquake disaster, there were a lot of international organizations that came in for reconstruction work.

There were volunteer works for rebuilding the houses and several strategic public infrastructure. What is most heartbreaking? The lives and livelihoods lost. And the community's soul in century-old churches. Churches split in half and turned into rubble. The Baclayon Church, known to many for the place where the Baclayon Childrens Choir made its debut and home of several historical activities split in half. Based on the final report, 7 churches totally destroyed and 21 were damaged. Ten churches of the island's churches have been declared as national cultural heritage, now reduced into rubble:
1. San Pedro Church, Loboc (built in 17th C. by the Jesuits; paintings added in 20th c; Bohol's 2nd oldest Church.)

Baclayon Church

2. Immaculada Concepcion de la Virgen Maria, Baclayon (oldest church in the island, built in coral stnes and cemented by egg whites. It houses a museum with large collection of historic artifacts)
3. Nuestra Señora de la Luz, Loon, Bohol (locally known as BIrhen ng Kasilak Church; the biggest in the island, built by the Augustinian- Recollects in Corinthian style)
4. Loay, Bohol (established in the 19th century, built from coral stones)
5. Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, Dauis, Bohol (built by the Jesuits in various style; believed to have a well inside used by the residents during the war; water is viewed as miraculous).
6. Parroquia de la Santa Cruz, Maribojoc, Bohol (another church built by the Jesuits in 19th century)

Right after the quake, there was an abuzz of disbelief that these churches were damaged, with nothing left to restore as all of it was pulverized As the National Historical Commission chief Maria Serena Diokno said churches form "part of the soul of the community." There were a lot also who lamented that churches are structures, what is important are the lives of the people.

There is an ongoing Help Rebuild Bohol Churches by the Diocese of Tagbilaran and the National Historical Institute (NHI). You can donate or be a volunteer, just click the link.

When we were there, we're advised not to drink the water from local sources. Boil it first before drinking as water has been found out of e-coli. Water table moved. The shoreline of the beach in the municipality of Clarin for instance moved back with a width comparable to a football field. Reports also said that there was yellowish water that sprouted after immediately after the quake in October 15, 2013.

The waves used to be reach the rocks here

We stayed in Bohol for 5 days- quite a long time to relax, discern and also rekindle our faith. The procession during Good Friday was the longest and biggest I have ever seen in my entire life! People from all walks, including chidlren holding the rosary and singing the hymns. And after the procession, as we went back to the Church, there was a beeline to see the body of the dead Christ. What was nerve wracking was when the line broke out in haste to go to the carriage and get the flowers surrounding the body of Christ during the procession. There was crying, shouting, pushing and shoving. It was a frenzy..a show of devotion I never saw in real life. I only saw this kind in TV during the Black Nazarene. Was it desperation? Fanaticism?

Procession from Dauis Church

Procession at Tagbilaran Cathedral

Bohol is an island with lots of things to offer- not just the white sand beaches in Panglao, the Chocolate Hills, or the tarsiers. More so, it houses a lot historical memories, of deep-seated religion as well as revolution. I am interested with how revolutions started and how it ended. An uprising,led by Francisco Sendrijas alias Dagohoy was considered as the longest revolt, taking around 85 years (1744-1829) for the Spaniards to quell. Revolt was due to the forced labor (polo y sevicios). But it was triggered when the Jesuit priest Fr. Gaspar Morales, the Jesuit curate of Inabanga refused to give burial to Dagohoys brother (a constable who was ordered to capture one parishioner who left the church, and was killed in the process). Even after Dagohoy's death, his followers continued the fight.

Tamblot on one hand, is one of the babaylans who refused to follow Catholicism.Fr. Murillo Velarde recounted their attempts to quell the revolt in Historia de Filipinas and translated by Blair and Robertson, Vol. 38 (pp. 87-91).

Sadly, the name Dagohoy is only relegated to a municipality and Tamblot, a small narrow street. It was never a part of the official, mainstream tours. And it is indeed a challenge for historians and tourism office to go beyond the usual tour sites. For rebuilding is not only structures as well as our memories of the past.

What lingers with Bohol? The people's resilience and beautiful sunset. I was moved by the lola who dressed up the Crucifix. They continue the masses either in gyms or makeshift churches, rising to the so called "alternative Churches." On the hindsight, aren't churches before are not big structures but anywhere we worship and commune together to celebrate the Word?
As one lola said, "Ang among pagtuo dili gyud maguba (Our faith will never be destroyed)."

For during typhoon or any disaster, our faith will help us survive.

Colorful banca at Loboc River

To have an undying burning passion of hundred Suns. :)

Thank you Ate Leah Bugtay for being a gracious host.
Good health for you always to continue your service.

Cliches and Circles

2014-04-22T12:47:00.000+08:00

Dauis Church, Bohol (April 19, 2014)

Does sunset sometimes
look like the sun’s coming up?
Do you know what faithful love is like?
You’re crying. You say you’ve burned yourself.

But can you think of anyone who’s not
hazy with smoke?

- Rumi

Dahican Beach: Waves, Abs and Turtles

2014-04-13T16:26:00.003+08:00

7km stretch of white sand shoreline

Dahican has a soft spot in my heart.

Whenever the city life begins to be chaotic, Dahican Beach, located in Mati, Davao Oriental is another on my list for refuge (second to Samal Island's Vanishing Island and Isla Reta).

Amihan Boys train everyday after picking up trash along the shorelines.

It used to be like our secret hideaway but now it's known for skimboarders and surfer wannabes. Based on the local history, Dahican is where the Moro seafarers during the pre-Spanish era anchor their boats because of its fine harbor. The local settlers started to call it Dahican, coming from the word dahic, meaning "to set on shore a boat'. According to Kuya George "Jun" Plaza, dahic also means the 'movement of the pawikans coming from the sea to the beach to nest'. The pawikans, usually Hawksbill and Olive Ridleys trudge ashore to nest during the months of May and June.

It is now being packaged as the skimboarding capital of the south, with sparkling turquoise water to boot and waves good place for amateur watersports training. It is along the white sand shoreline stretching to seven kilometers of Mayo Bay, facing the Pacific Ocean.

The pawikans (marine turtles) are considered by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN) as endangered. Meaning, these species are in danger of becoming extinct due to "the unabated causal factors such as hunting and intrusion to its habitat."

It is not just the home of the marine turtles. Dugongs (sea cows) and dolphins are also inhabitants here. In one of our stay here last November, Kuya Jun told us of dolphin sightings. But it was gloomy that day, so there was no close encounter. But the knowledge that these sea creatures abound the area and the turtles continue to lay its eggs on its shore, we can hope of seeing them coming back again. And Amihan sa Dahican boys and girls are continuously cleaning the shorelines and protecting these creatures, even without renumeration or clear support from the LGU.

Fun fact: Did you know that the pawikan hatchling when it survived the ocean and becomes mature will return to the shore where it was born to lay its own eggs? That's pag-ibig sa tinubuang lupa (love for your birthplace) magnified!

Go now Gong Pawikan, go go now and hope you'll survive the cruel seas (most esp. humans!)

One on my bucketlist is to be able to swim with the pawikans but seeing them (and almost witnessing one laying its eggs) in one day is enough for now. Before the start of the Skimboarding competition for the Amihan 10th Anniversary last April 5, one hawksbill pawikan was released. It got into the fisherman's hook. The fisherman brought it to the Amihan boys as they're recognized by the Mati City Local Government Unit (LGU) and the Department of Environment and Natural Resources- Protected Areas and Wildlife Bureau (DENR- PAWB) as caretakers of these endangered species. They put a tag on the pawikan (to determine where it was found and enable them to monitor it) and then released it to the enjoyment of the people and the kids. The kids keep on cheering for the pawikan as it edge its way to the seawater.

To make your summer get-away here fully memorable, why don't you try the skimboard lessons for P200 per hour or surfing lesson for P400 per hour. I have to warn you though, the Amihan boys and girls make it look so easy but prepare for muscle cramps after.

I have to ask for Bayugyug's (their local skimboarding champion) own board as a goodluck charm for this training.

Telai (another CSer) and I had a hard time balancing on the board!

We Couchsurfers bring our guests here to experience the simplicity and nature at its rawness. Plus you get to see the abs of the Amihan Boys every morning! *insert naughty smile here*

Couchsurfing Davao during the Sambuokan Festival.

'Cause girls know how to have fun. :p

I prefer to go here when there's no festival. But if you're the beach party goer, visit the place during Amihan Anniversary every April, Pujada Bay Festival on June, Sambuokan Fest every October since there's food and free bands. And there's the infamous Bikini Abre (on Amihan's Anniversary) to get you giggling until the wee hours of the morning. You have to see it for yourself to know what I'm talking about. :)

How to get here:

Take the van near Gaisano Mall. Fare is P220. It's a three to four hours drive from Davao to Mati City. If you're with a big group ( five or more) you can negotiate with the van driver to take you to Dahican for an additional P30 each fare. If you're on a budget, take a pedicab for P20, pakyaw for P50. Or you can take the pedicab also for P15-20 each.

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Kid in our Hearts

2014-03-26T21:18:00.001+08:00

Ray June "Kid" Blancada

Dearest Kid,

When was the last time I saw you? I can't pinpoint the date. It has been so long. All I know is you went to Philippine Military Academy (PMA) after trying to work in the academe. I can only remember you with the games we played after school. You were one of those poging timid boys in the senior class. You're very responsible kuya (older brother) to Lyndel. You always fetched her when it's already late and we're still playing at the plaza. You joined in our silly games despite our two year gap and you nearing adolescence at that time. If you don't play games with us, you sat on the bench. Or you would go to our house and talk to Lola Luz. You were very polite to Lola Luz. You always do 'mano po' and joke with her. She likes you very much and talks a lot about how lucky Auntie Nena to have you. You even fetched water for us or help us pull down the heavy handle of the hand water pump. You laughed at my shortness; I laughed at your thinness. And I remembered you blushing when we teased you with a classmate you courted during high school.

We were caught up in the changes of growing up and chasing our dreams. Communication was nil.. We moved on with or lives and I heard you got married after graduating. But I got a shock of my life when I heard the news. My sister texted me about the ambush.

I immediately searched the net for news. Nothing. It was aired on ANC's news flash report, my sister said. I was in denial. We all are when death (or disaster) struck close to us. We learn that our knowledge of life is limited to death.

Kid, all I have of you are those memories. I wonder what will be your reaction when we have seen each other at this juncture of our present selves. I wonder how would you react when you knew I am an activist. I would like to see how you would react to my arguments about linear thinking in the ranks and human rights violations. I know we would argue but laugh after of our foolishness and hardheadedness for the things we strongly believe in. You after all have taken the steps after your father- Uncle Minyong, a retired solider. And you were a teacher first before becoming a soldier.

And I wonder how would you react if I tell you that I attended the Comprehensive Agreement on the Respect for Human Rights and Humanitarian Law (CARHRIHL) Multistakeholders Forum held in Ateneo de Davao yesterday. I was still processing my emotions about this 16-year old document and how both parties agreed to "humanize war." Truth be told, I am baffled by how these two paradoxical words can be used.

CARHRIHL aimed to uphold, protect and promote human rights and principles of international humanitarian laws. It does not only hold accountable government state actors for human rights violations but also non-state actors particularly the CPP/NPA/NDF. It aimed to protect the civilians caught in the armed conflict. It aimed to bring these two parties in the negotiating table. However, the negotiations have long been stalled.

I have been doing conflict monitoring Kid. I have read a lot of senseless killings as well as people dying to protect the limited resource they have and for the cause they believe in. Constant exposure to violence can make one numb.Probably, I've been numbed reading these reports. And I didn't know how to react when I finally read the news, the truth of you, so young, full of dreams for the family you are just building- all are lost in the road of Quezon Province. And you were on a medical mission together with your 3 other companions. You are not just unknown dead soldier in an encounter. You were caught in the tumultuous period of retaliation after the publicized arrest of the Tiamzon couple, one of the top ranking leaders of the Communist Party.

We talk of CARHRIHL and its legitimacy to pursue peace in the communities. And we seek deep commitment from both parties to adhere on what they have signed. But the real work to any peace process or agreements is after the ink dries up. We are talking about human lives. Yes, it is about your life Kid. Or any soldier. Or every civilian caught in the crossfire.

As one of the speakers in the forum commented, we see a lot of violence everyday. Sadly, we only react when the casualties are very dear and personal. And we ask, why why?

There will be no instant answer, Kid. All I know, as long as the root causes of armed conflict are not addressed: poverty, corruption in the government and its inability to give justice, it will not just end here.

War can never be humane. Deaths in every attack or retaliation should not be a scorecard.

Amidst the storm of dissolution and madness of everyday forms of violence, our strength will be tested and sometimes our light for hope flicker..but we hold unto ourselves with big wide eyes into the night, that the morning awaits us.

Kid, go on. You will remain in our heart. This is a sad, long goodbye.

Let me share to you Paul Baumer's, a character in All Quiet on the Western Front lines realizing how war destroys both soldiers (him and his supposedly enemy) :

“Comrade, I did not want to kill you. If you jumped in here again, I would not do it, if you would be sensible too. But you were only an idea to me before, an abstraction that lived in my mind and called forth its appropriate response. It was that abstraction I stabbed. But now, for the first time, I see you are a man like me. I thought of your hand-grenades, of your bayonet, of your rifle; now I see your wife and your face and our fellowship. Forgive me, comrade. We always see it too late. Why do they never tell us that you are poor devils like us, that your mothers are just as anxious as ours, and that we have the same fear of death, and the same dying and the same agony – Forgive me, comrade; how could you be my enemy? If we threw away these rifles and this uniform you could be my brother..”

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You have a part of my soul

2014-03-07T17:19:00.001+08:00

They’d never been lovers, of course, not in the physical sense. But they’d been lovers as most of us manage, loving through expressions and gestures and the palm set softly upon the bruise at the necessary moment. Lovers by inclination rather than lust. Lovers, that is, by love - Gregory Maguire

From Eric Carle's book entitled Friends

I've been asked several times if you know, we are going out. Of course we are! I mean, we've like malling, hiking, biking, traveling together and talking till wee hours in the morning. I hear the dramatic undertones when I try to explain what we have. They wanted to know if we are an item. As if we are two pieces of a display. That always make me laugh. because you and I have been comfortable with each other that I could not think of you in a romantic way.

You are one of the few male species I've let into my circle. You are my sanity amidst the heavy drama. I can be honest with you. You know I believe that transparency is a virtue. I am not afraid for you to see me vulnerable, too messy and quite transparent.

I am writing this to remind us how friendship is true partnership. That a man and a woman can be friends. With the inconstant relationships I/you have, this is with no ending, just happy beginning and unbreakable middle. Friendships even outlast marriages (as we once remarked). Because really, this is kismet. :)

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Love me like Home.

2014-02-18T13:51:00.001+08:00

I want a love that is aching and longing; desperate for morning kisses. I want to look you up in the moon, on its waxing and waning. You will find me under the seemingly brand new stars. My heart is begging, "Love me, love me, love me."

I want our love to be like the whole sky when it turns the whole world with different tints and shades of red. One day you will touch me with desperation; or with tenderness as you hold your violin. Let the melody be like sighs. Let sighs be thunderclaps and let it turn into storm. I might be the calm after the storm. I hope when you hear the thunder you will remember me: I am also the storm.

Let our love inspire songs. Let it be a disaster- moan your happiness, cry out your worries in my open mouth. Let the trees bow down to us. Love me selflessly and in full. Love me like home. ♥

Moon River on the violin while waiting for sunrise.
Matina Aplaya, Davao City

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The Joke is on Us

2014-01-27T17:07:00.000+08:00

We have been too engrossed watching Showtime that we forget there are more sides of the story and there are more stories needed to get the limelight. This "sympathy" with the celebrities made some of us act as if we know everything what's happening after the camera rolls. Some tried to dig who this girl is and those 'thugs' who mauled the very amiable, too generous comedian.

Sympathy and empathy is different with sensationalism. Don't be a part of this nasty ratings game. What you see on TV is not what they seem to be. We should think again. Or maybe we are no longer thinking. After all, escapism is easier to taste than swallow the hard realities.

This "need" for our "care" for them compels us to show it in all forms of media. To have #JusticeforVhongNavarro and preoccupying our time with him over and over (yes that includes reading articles about that incidenr and putting his video viral) yet disregards reading even the basic facts about the peace process is just laughable. Oh what peace process?

This is NEWS! The two panels just signed the Normalization Annexe , the last of the four annexes to the October 15, 2012 Framework Agreement on the Bangsamoro (FAB). It talks about the decommissioning of the armed wing of the MILF and outlines steps to disarm private armies in the proposed Bangsamoro area. Yes, dismantling armies of political families not just in Mindanao but we should also reiterate that this be also done in other parts of the country. That should be relevant, right?

You talk about violence and justice? Then go beyond the walls, beyond those high rise condominium and start to set our anger at the proper direction. Cry for Justice for the 58 media and civilians massacred in Ampatuan, Maguindanao. Cry for Justice for those who disappeared. Remember the names of Jonas Burgos, Sherlyn Cadapan and Karen Empenio, among other desaparecidos.

And by the way, thank you mainstream media (yes you ABS-CBN, GMA, your executives like Gabby Lopez, Gozons and even you Boy Abunda) for giving lots of your airtime to this brouhaha. This is the tragedy of our lopsided priorities.

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SAGADA SAGA Part 3

2014-01-22T09:00:00.000+08:00

For our third and last day, we've done the most physically-challenging activity- spelunking at Sumaguing Cave.

Just a reminder. It’s important to bring the receipt of payment made at the Tourism Office for monitoring. They won't allow you to go inside if you don't have the receipt.

We wanted to try the cave connections (entry from Lumiang Cave and exit at Sumaguing) but Lumiang was closed due to very slippery rocks and highly steep entrance. So we did not insist for the 6-hour cave connection ordeal. Well the rugged terrain in the entrance is already a sign that it would not be an easy climb for the Sumaguing cave alone. We have no guide yet and we waited for about an hour.

While waiting for our guide, we decided to re-create the John Lloyd and Bea's
" Miss you like Crazy" poster. *epic laugh*

There were already 2 groups ahead of us: Three foreigners and another group of 6 siblings (or probably cousins). The latter are all prepared - each has their own head lamps and waterbag. Their father took several pictures of them and lectured them about safety, and the need to follow their guide. After 15 minutes the first group came up. They decided not to pursue it. We also later learned that the 6 siblings backed out.

The hour waiting for our guide was not lost as we chatted with the woman in charge at the entrance. I asked her what is the meaning of Sumaguing and she replied: “Ma’am pumasok ka sa loob at paglabas mo malalaman mo ang ibig sabihin ng Sumaguing (Go inside the cave and when you went outside you will know its meaning).” I was dumbfounded. That was the first time I got that kind of reply. When I am usually new to the area, I always ask the meaning of place names and the stories behind it. If Sumaguing is unexplainable in words, then I’m willing to take the depth of its dark abyss and uneven steps.

Our guide Taric from SAGGAS (Sagada Genuine Guides Association) came. He proved to be a very jolly, helpful and energetic guide. The cave has three parts: the descent, the second phase under the bat colony and the difficult yet the most breathtaking part. The path is slippery, and you couldn't care less if it’s covered with bat pee or poop!

During peak season it would be hard since the way will be packed with tourists coming and going out at the single line. Thankfully, there were few people this time so we can stay longer at a certain point and adjust our senses to the darkness inside. On the second part, we were asked to remove our footwear and socks to take the Spider-like traction of the slope bridging it to the chambers. The rock formations here ask for our imagination to enable us to see the accompanying stories of a native pig pen with matching lechon still on stick, a mother and baby elephant and a “Dinosaur track” that killed the “turtle”. There’s also a Royal story wherein the King and the Queen made Princesses and Princes in the Royal Chamber. These formations are sexually suggestive and Taric had made us laughing. The most spectacular formations for me are the black chocolate cake and the chamber curtains! To get an idea what I meant here’s the pictures inside the cave taken by Jorge Golle:

The difficult descent

at the native pig pen rock formation with mother and child elephant

going to the second part of the cave

Advance Happy birthday Boni! :p
chocolate cake rock formation.

The mystery of the missing head of the "snake"

The brothers and an Indian couple exploring the secrets of Sumaguing

The crocodile and the prey

The Royal Curtain where the "head of the snake" is hiding

The process gets challenging as we have to slip and crawl and for the vertically-challenged like me, I have to ask Taric to serve as a human ladder.

There is a pool near the Royal Curtain rock formation that has a hole that is dark, unfathomable, you can’t see its surface. No one dared to measure its depth.

ice cold water and peer pressure

The last and the most challenging part is taking the plunge in the ice cold pool! Six feet on the left side part and about ten feet on the other side. With ultimate darkness, you'll think of the presence of mermen who will lure you into the deep.

I don’t know how to swim but it did not stop me from taking a swim in a 10-degree Celsius water! Too cold that even the foreigners get out of the water the minute they felt the numbness. It was very cold at the very first but very refreshing. If you’re afraid to take the pool, there’s a mini waterfalls at the side.

The white specks on the walls are fossilized seashells and bits of clams

And did I mention there are a lot of fossils of seashells inside? Yes, it just proved that our country was once submerged in water. You’ll be amazed not just with the rock formations but the very rich history on its walls. Some not yet studied. We have a lot of archeological treasures uncovered.

The survivors with Taric, the super funny guide.

The mystery of the cave made us speechless, lost for words and longing to stop the time, just to stay.And we achieved what we want: we came out unscratched, clothes clean and laughing till the top.

POSTSCRIPT:

The wounded gecko pine tree

Tree hugging is a therapy. :)

Sagada is not your typical sightseeing adventure. It is not for the fainthearted. It is for the people who wants to try to overcome their fears and to refresh their weary souls. It is the place for gastronomic adventure too. Thank you for filling always our hungry tummies in different ways.

LR- Strawberry House's home made yoghurt, Salt and Pepper's etag, smoked meat cooked in vinegar, Yoghurt House's banana pancake, Masfere's chicken, veggies and large fries! We were not able to try Lemon Pie's specialty; they're closed and probably planting lemons. hehe

Sagada, thank you for keeping alive your people’s hospitality, the genuine smile and stories of our ancestors etched in the rocks of the terraces, caves and waterfalls for us to continue to appreciate. Your pine trees are good secret keepers too! ♥

Carpe diem baby! :D

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SAGADA SAGA PART 2

2014-01-21T09:00:00.000+08:00

Waiting for the fogs to clear

At 5:30AM, still sleepy and feeling cold, we waited alongside other tourists for Mr. Sun to come out at Kiltepan Viewpoint. In between waiting, we drank soju (yes like a mouthwash!) and joked around.

It’s a good thing we got another group (Mara Lopez and her 2 friends) to join us and share the van rent.

Soju as mouthwash. :p

We waited for an hour, looked at the movement of the clouds and the thick fogs. Mr. Sun went out for only about 20 minutes and hid himself again.

shattered glass
Photo by Jorge Golle

Since it’s already 700AM, we decided to go back the lodge, wash ourselves and prepare for the trek to Bomod-ok Falls.

With Ate Gloria, our guide

The way to Bomod-ok Falls is an hour trek alongside the rice terraces with the cold breeze and the sweltering heat. We met Ate Gloria, our 49-year old guide who jokes around and pleasantly told me stories of their land passed from generation to generation and her children's schooling. She picked up sunflowers for me and offered to take my small backpack. She provided us with long thin bamboo sticks saying it’s our “helpline’ in slippery areas and for our uphill climb.

It was an hour trek for a 1.9km way to the once majestic falls. Bomod-ok from the word, bod-ok (pushed from the rock) , is also known as the Big Falls. It used to contain water in wider area before it was tapped as drinking water and irrigation of communities surrounding it. Our three companions (Mara, Dian and Ian) swam at their heart’s content at the fall’s basin pool. They invited us but Ian’s nanginginig na taba sa tiyan (as Boni described it) is enough proof of the water’s coldness. And we have to trek back at high noon! So we contented ourselves dipping our foot and exploring the area amidst the big boulders. Gladly we’re here at off peak season, so we can almost say we got the place for ourselves.

Aiming at the Sun

After another hour of trekking, we went back to our lodge, too tired to move our muscles. Grumbling stomach made us walked again for the late lunch at Salt and Pepper Diner. Then we slept until 5PM.

Too sleepy while waiting for our orders. Too hungry that we will eat anything.

We hiked again to take a look at the Hanging Coffins. There are no more trails going directly to the coffins. Jorge and Boni were there before and they were able to get closer. It was closed because of the looting of the coffins, some bones were stolen believing it is a good amulet and some teeth which have gold innings.

Like a child rediscovering the wonders of soundwaves bouncing, we shouted at our heart’s delight at Echo Valley. We shouted the names of the people we wanted to bless (or curse? Haha!).

It won't be an authentic Strawberry House if it don't have the plant. They have pots of it; some were planted in bamboos and plastic containers.

Then we trekked back to town proper and this time, tried the Strawberry House (it’s just beside our inn). Since we’re still full with our late lunch, I just ordered a sandwich and paired with the yogurt with fresh strawberry. Super yum and filling! Must try this at home.

While the two of our companions were too tired, Boni and I on one hand,were wide awake and itching to explore. We wanted to have a feel of the local night life and hoping to find those three cute foreigner backpackers we've met during our arrival. And truth be told, we're up for another adventure *wink wink* But lo and behold, all shops close at 10PM! So we walked and saw a bar with Bob Marley's tarp outside and ordered beers. We met three local guides who taught us how to take the momma with limestone added with tobacco. They shared stories of relative peacefulness (zero criminality!) in their area. When they left, Boni and I are the only ones around. We were finishing the beer when this expat with dark blue eyes popped his head at the door and smiled, said good evening and asked me if I know someone who sells joint. Holy camote! He just easily said it in a conspiratorial voice. He was almost begging since it’s their last night there and asked me thrice if indeed, I don’t know someone. He was testing me. For him, it's either I don’t know someone who sells or I have it but just don't want to offer it to him. The nerve! Well sorry honey, you brought along a girl with you and you won't believe me. We could have assisted you in looking for a joint but nah, you're a waste of time! :p

So we left the bar and walked in the dark and eerie road. I was describing to Boni (in a somehow loud voice I suppose) the openness of marijuana coffee shops in Amsterdam, when this guy sitting outside that bar just butted in and said, “I am selling one. I left it at home though. I can get it.” And we stopped in our tracks. Bakit ngayon ka lang kuya? May naghahanap kanina eh! Should we? Hhmmm..very tempting. I nudged Boni. But crazy thoughts of murder, frame-ups and unused cell bars were running on his head. We said thanks to that guy and headed to our lodge laughing at our foolishness What a way to end our second day.♥

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SAGADA SAGA Part 1

2014-01-20T17:49:00.001+08:00

It started as a wild thought. The organizational annual planning on first week of January will be held in Baguio. Then Boni said, “how about a side trip after the planning?” The wanderlust in us was awakened. A side trip to Northern Luzon and the thoughts of rice terraces, winter-like weather and good smelling coffee pushed us to seek permission from our Country Manager (CM). He said he will allow us IF we do it before the planning. We're afraid that was sort of a test for us. We have to prove that we will not be sleeping during the sessions and there's no other choice, so Yes, we will do it.

But as Christmas vacation was fast approaching, we were told that we will be rescheduling the planning session and we might not be able to pursue the trip after all. Our crestfallen faces made Manang Nikki (our Deputy Country Manager) talked to the big boss again. “Yes payagan mo na yung mga bata!" our big boss said. We laughed. Three days of leave approved. Can anything be better than that? :)

So we spent the holidays with our respective families with the giddy feeling knowing that we will be jumpstarting the year to ease our itchy feet. In my part, I started walking and jogging around the fields in my hometown.

My Dora backpack needs some stitching; its top pocket was ruined after the Bangkok adventure and it collected some dust. Come to think of it, I haven’t travelled outside of Mindanao for a year now. Last year, my former worked provided me the opportunity to explore the outskirts and the urban jungle of Davao, my second home.

pink gloves (gifts from my Tita), pink socks and bonnets (gifts from friends)

Three hours and all of the essentials were packed- long sleeve shirts, thermal jacket, pink gloves and socks (I was even thinking of bringing a muffler!:p) , leggings, pants, trekking sandals and of course, my trusty leather boots. :D

On January 5, we trooped to the airport by 11:30AM and found ourselves starving upon arriving in Manila. The three of us have large luggages and we would not want several security guards prying into things so we decided to eat at food stalls in front of Farmer’s Plaza before heading to E. Rodriguez Avenue for the Manila-Bontoc trip by Cable Tours. We took a taxi and tried to search for the bus. We were told it was just beyond St. Luke’s and beside Trinity College. We were already at the end of the avenue and we haven’t found it yet. It’s the sole direct trip to Bontoc and my companions were worried. We called Boni (our other companion who’s yet to come from Cavite and was tasked to buy the tickets beforehand, but failed to do so) and asked him for directions again. He reiterated the direction and other landmarks, with the help of google map of course.

Sky as canvass

Instead of panicking, I asked them to just keep calm and enjoy the changing horizon. It’s already sunset. Good thing the taxi driver was also game for the chase wherever Cable Tours is.

And just when I was about to capture Jolibee’s silhouette on sunset, I saw a very little sign informing that Cable Tours operations has been absorbed by Florida Bus! Lovely.

Manila traffic and beating the stoplights

So we asked Manong driver to drive us to Florida Bus at Sampaloc. We got there in time to purchase tickets for the 8:30PM trip and waited for Boni to arrive. It will be a 12-hour travel and we got Bonamine (for possible dizziness), food and water!

The last time I went to Baguio was in 2007 for the UP General Assembly of Student Councils (GASC) and I was ill-prepared. This time, I have the experience of winter and trekked several mountains. I easily fall asleep during long trips. Just after taking the bus tickets, I fell asleep all the way to Bontoc (well except for a stop in Nueva Ecija). We brace ourselves for the colder weather as the bus traces a winding path to Bontoc proper.

The Mother and the Baby Florida transpo

Goooooood bbbbrrrrrrrorning Bontoc!

We arrived at around 9AM in Bontoc. We asked around for the jeep that will bring us to Sagada. The trip is around 45 minutes. We’re faced with a minor dilemma: should we take the top load or just go inside. Our boss warned us not take the ride on top of the jeep as one former volunteer got herself injured badly when the jeep swerved in one of the curvy roads and she fell. But unlike her (a foreigner), we’re raised in the barrios and we take a lot riskier public transpo.

Junction going to Sagada.


We embarked on an adventure of a lifetime. :)

We surmised it’s safer compared to the long habal-habal (motorcycle) rides we took in the mountains. Besides, the trip would not be as exciting without experiencing it. And peer pressure is even more potent than the mad eyes of our supervisor or security officer later. :p

And we saw the envy from three foreigner backpackers who sat inside. Two of them went on top just to take a picture of himself alongside the baggage. Sorry boys, we took the risk better. :)

Indeed, we got the perfect view. It’s the exhilarating feeling of being outside and having a whole view of things around you and watching passing jeeps with full people on top, the sacks of rice and vegetables it carry and the people going on with their daily lives. We arrived in Sagada proper with smiles despite the painful butt and numb legs. We did it!

The world is at your feet.

We walked down to Residential Lodge and rested for a while. It has one of the friendliest owner Tita Mary Daoas. Her daughter-in-law is from Sasa-11, Davao! And they gave us a room good for 6 people with a P250/night/person rate. The room is comfy and we have a good view of the pine trees. Our place is very convenient for the food houses we can’t wait to try.


The Residential Lodge: Our home for three days.

For reservations you call or text these numbers: 0919-672-8744/ 0908-166-10770908-166-1077 or email: residential.lodge@yahoo.com.

Tita Mary and her two adorable grandchidlren. The youngest kid would only sleep if it's his grandma who'll attend to his needs.

We're starving and we walked to Yoghurt house and tried their specialty. Our rule in this trip is to have a culinary experience thus, we won’t be repeating any resto. We will try everything. J We have a sumptuous meal of meat and sautéed vegetables and banana and strawberry in home-made yoghurt.

getting the feel of Sumaguing.

Then we started our adventure. We registered at the local Tourism Office, paid the Environmental fee (P35 each) and walked towards Sumaguing Cave (just to check its entrance, caving will be on our last day).

On the road to the cave, there was this old woman who was bundling the dried abaca and I wanted to take her picture. I asked her permission. To my dismay, she declined. I could have just clicked the button and got away with it. But I wanted to test the boundaries of a free, prior and informed consent and the blurry lines of it especially in photography. We want to take photos that come off naturally, those candid shots of unguarded moments but it is also ethical to ask their permission first. And I don’t have long lenses anyway so that they would be unguarded. Most of the time, I take photos (especially of children) and let them see it after. It was a test on my part to ask her. I know for one there are beliefs that photographs take away a part of their souls. Or to some areas where I have done fieldworks, taking photograph is a formal affair. They have to look pretty thus, one has to change clothes and put on make-up.

When we’re back at the cross roads, Jorge asked if we would like to chase the sunset at Lake Danum.

We got an hour to do it but another trek to the other side of the mountain is not inviting. So we asked Tita Mary if we could rent her van. Kuya Marion picked us up and we took our way to Lake Danum.

Sunset in Lake Danum.
My first attempt in using filter.

The May and Boni Team-up! :D

It was cloudy though and the sun can’t get through. It would have been perfect to see the sun’s reflection on water as it’s setting. Kuya Marion told us he knows a good site for a good vantage view of the lake. He took us to the hill just before the entrance of the lake and we waited.

The sun started to set at the horizon and the clouds were parting, giving way for its glory. Sunsets are always spectacular. With oohhss and ahhhs, yes we affirmed that the best moments in life are free and colorful.. ♥

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