If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see we don't even list mosquito traps. There are many reasons for this and here are just a few.

First, mosquito traps do not control local populations. No doubt they can catch some. Maybe even a lot. But you'll still have mosquitoes throughout the property and in our experience, the mosquitoes caught do not impact the local population enough to make a difference.

Second, it only takes a few mosquitoes to ruin the day. One can bite several times and will no doubt do so once it finds food. Since using traps will leave a significantly higher population of mosquitoes on the property where they're installed compared to fogging, there is simply not enough of a reduction to make a difference and in the end, the bites will continue.

Third, fogging is so effective, easy to do and way more practical, why wouldn't you do it? In fact you can continue to use as many traps as you wish because the two can be used simultaneously. So if you love your mosquito trap but want to take out more local mosquitoes, keep it. Just realize that if you're fogging properly, you won't be finding nearly as many trapped and eventually, you will get to the point where you're just not catching any. This is when you'll know you're fogging correctly because you really can eliminate mosquitoes from any normal sized, average home lot of land.

Lastly, since mosquitoes can breed in so many areas around most any home, it's not possible to strategically locate enough traps for them to intercept every  mosquito that will fly on your property. In fact when you take this into consideration, what we find on most lots is that a single trap can really only affect 10-20 % of the areas where mosquitoes will live and breed. And if they have to pass by you to get to a trap, it won't happen. They'll stop first where they find people every time. This means in order to use traps effectively, you'll need a bunch placed out working around the clock. Besides the inordinate cost, they'll be a bit of an eyesore. Fogging will enable you to deal with any mosquito hot spot with immediate results and no unsightly devices littering the landscape.

If you haven't read through our article, I suggest you take the time to review it in detail. We've got several sized foggers all of which can do the job and once you're armed with the right piece of equipment, the mosquitoes that forage on your property won't stand a chance.

Here is a direct link to our article:

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

My one, or two, specific questions are:

1) we have a large area under a Live Oak tree that is constantly covered with wet oak leaves. If I remove all of the leaves and try to establish St. Augustine grass there, will that at least take care of that particular breeding area? They can't breed in grass correct?

2) I have a few flower beds around the hose that I mulch with pine straw (and of course the falling oak leaves which I can't seem to keep out of my yard.) If I remove the pine straw and replace it with rocks, like the white landscape type or river rocks, will that eliminate that particular breeding area? Can they breed under wet rocks just as well as they breed under wet pine straw?

Please help! I am a mother who loves to let her little boys play outside but they are getting eaten alive in our yard, AKA The Mosquito Resort. Thanks- Sarah P.S. If we ever move I am definitely looking for a house with a big lawn free of shade areas and trees, nothing but grass and sunshine! Did I mention I hate mosquitos?

First, as explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL article, mosquitoes are quite capable of nesting and breeding anywhere that provides some moisture and shade. Grass happens to be one of their favorite locations as is pine straw, rocks, mulch, ground cover, vines, etc. Basically anywhere and on anything that can hold moisture. For some reason people seem to think mosquitoes need water – as in large puddles or pools – to breed but in fact there are many species that require just a tad bit of moisture to reproduce. These are the species that wreak havoc on most homeowners. Especially if you lot is well shaded and moist.

Second, though you're effort to remove the leaves and lay sod or small rock may enable the yard to look nicer, don't do this with the hopes that your local mosquito population will decrease. It won't. In fact there is a good chance it will get worse. Here's why.

Dead plants and organic matter like leaves tend to loose moisture way faster compared to anything alive. So once grass or something else living is in place of all the debris, the area will actually hold more moisture (which is needed for the plants now living there) in the plants roots, stems and limbs. It's in these areas where the mosquitoes will thrive very well. And because these areas can maintain and "hold onto" moisture longer than something dead, these areas will actually get worse mosquito wise. As for rocks; because of their odd shape (irregular), we know that rock piles are mosquito heavens because water will invariably collect on the surface of many rocks throughout the hundreds or thousands you disperse. These little puddles will be prime locations for mosquitoes to target and many times they'll be down a few layers, out of direct light and well hidden, making the moisture last much longer than normal which in turn "enables" the mosquitoes to thrive.

In the end, as long as you have shade and moisture, you'll have gnats, no seeums and mosquitoes as the primary biting pests in most any yard here in the  southeast. And that certainly pertains to anyone residing in Florida. The good news is if you fog the property every 1-2 weeks with some NYLAR and BIFEN using a FM6309 or one of our other listed foggers, they'll be gone for good. These treatments are easy to do, fast, effective and safe for the family, pets and environments. As our article explains, mosquitoes are easy to kill and control when using the right products and right equipment.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Nylar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

FM6309:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

First it sounds like you have ideal equipment but the Permethrin would not be my choice of active to apply. It would explain the mixed results you achieved though based on the size of the area involved, you really need to isolate what we call "mosquito pockets" to get control of this specific pest. More on that later..

For starters, I would change to BIFEN. It's more cost efficient, requires a lot less material to be mixed per tank (good for the environment) and works a lot better compared to permethrin. I use it exclusively for my 1 acre lot (located on the Hootch) and it takes care of everything including roaches and ants so it's plenty strong.

Now if I found that the Bifen alone wasn't lasting long enough, I'd get some NYLAR and add that to the tank mix. This will no doubt interfere with the juveniles of all the pests you mention which in turn would prevent them from developing to breeding adults. This would really help for the long term.

Lastly, if you find yourself hesitant to spray close to the wetlands in fear of contaminating any sensitive areas, get some ECO IC. This active is a "green" product made from essential oils. It's federally exempt yet highly effective for all the pests you want to control. And since it can be applied to sensitive areas without concern of contamination, it's a great choice for these sites where pests are no doubt living and thriving and might otherwise be missed. These are in fact what can turn out to be "mosquito pockets". Marsh land, potted plants, areas with man made irrigation or sprinkler systems, etc. Many times a small pocket can breed thousands of mosquitoes and be missed.

To catch such locatins, it's important to think small which can get tough to do when dealing with 40 acres. But my gut tells me if you look really close to where the mosquito activity is centered, you'll find the hot spot. As our MOSQUITO CONTROL article explains, they don't travel far to find food and basically, can't. That means they must be somewhere close to where people are being bit so be sure to treat these areas well.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Nylar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

ECO IC: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-excempt-gal

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Based on the area you want to treat, I'd go with the BACK PACK FOGGER. These have been out of stock for awhile but we're about to be receiving a big order. Ideally suited for 1/2+  acre lots, you'll be both mobile and independent while using it. I use one for my 1 acre lot but have gone about treating various areas of my subdivision from time to time with the total area in the 2-3 acre range by the time I was through.

As for what to use in the mister; I say start with nothing but the BIFEN. It covers a wide range of pests and works great on flying insects. Plus it's odorless and easy to mix up.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Back Pack Fogger:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

Bifen:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Mosquito Control:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

The best option for this scenario would be the BT DUNKS or BT GRANULES. This product uses naturally occuring bacteria which will kill off developing mosquito larvae. It's safe enough to be used in most any water including a creek like you described and won't impact the fish, birds or other wildlife.

Here is a direct link to the item in our cart:

Dunks:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/bacteria/mosquito-dunks

Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/bacteria/mosquito-bt-granules

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see the product NYLAR GROWTH REGULATOR is mentioned. This product is a juvenile growth hormone and when applied to the landscape where eggs and larvae of insects are thought to be lying, it will effectively prevent them from developing to adults. This would be the best product to use in the yard now and in fact can last upwards of 6 months. No doubt applications can stave off future infestations and if done in the fall, spring and summer, most local populations can be effectively controlled.

At this time I would say to add some to the treatments you're now doing and over time, I'm sure you'll find the problem won't start up nearly as soon nor will it be as persistent throughout the year.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Nylar Growth Regulator:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

I am looking for a replacement mosquito repellant/barrier I can spray with my ortho dial a spray hose end.

My neighbor and I had Arrow exterminators spray both of our yards all last year with a mixture of "something" and it worked GREAT!! any idea what they use, and do you have something that will work equally, or better?

I am looking for about 30 days per application. Or there about, depending on rainfall

I do have a dog that spends sometime in the backyard who would be in contact with it, as well s a couple guinea pigs that feed on the grass periodically.

Thank you for your time

Chris

"bitten too many times in east atl village "

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn we have a wide range of products that can be sprayed or fogged in the backyard. Several of these can be used in a HOSE END SPRAYER like the one you described above. The rule to follow here is based on the size of the yard involved and the amount of area you'd like to treat. Generally speaking, anything under 5,000 sq/ft is easy to "spray" with a hose end sprayer. Once you get over 5,000, it becomes more laborious and the method of misting and fogging should be considered. Not only does misting require less work, it will save time and money. As our article explains, misting uses a lot less chemical and over the course of season, the savings could be dramatic based on how much less chemical you'll be using. More importantly, mist tends to cover and coat local vegetation in such a way that you'll never be able to duplicate with via a liquid application.

Once you decide if you wish to use the hose end sprayer or one of the FOGGING MACHINES we have listed in our article, the next decision will be to choose a product that can be sprayed. One of the best is the BIFEN. It's odorless, goes a long way and can last 2-4 weeks. I use it around my home every 2-3 weeks and it controls most everything including mosquitoes. Add to it some NYLAR (which controls the egg developing process) and you'll find the length of residual activity to increase. I personally don't use the Nylar I'm okay with treating more frequently. If you want the longest lasting applications, add it to the tank mix and you'll get better results.

In summary, we sell what professional pest control operators use so whatever had been sprayed in your yard we can supply. When used properly, these products can be safely applied in and around the home without undue risk or hazard being presented to people or pets. And with the right equipment and products, you too can tackle your toughest pest problems including mosquitoes. Give us a call if you need further help or assistance. Our local number is 770-985-9392 and we're open Mon-Fri.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Hose End Sprayers:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers

Fogging Machines:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Nylar:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

Thank You

Most of the common residual products like BIFEN and PERMETHRIN can be used in either water or an oil based spray. When using a THERMAL FOGGER, you must mix your product choice with some kind of DEODORIZED OIL which no doubt can affect the length of residual the chosen product might provide. Additionally, one of the main variables that can affect the length of time any product can last once applied is heat itself. With thermal foggers the product being applied is no doubt being heated up and this process alone can shorten the length of time the application remains active. Add onto this the impact of the oil base being used as the carrier for the active and it's highly likely that in the end, the use of a thermal fogger will prove to adversely affect the length of time the product you're applying will last. Oil contains solvents which tend to 'break down" actives. For most applications this means a shortened life expectancy.

On the flip side of these shortcomings, there are some reasons why a thermal fogger can be the better option. If you're dealing with a pest which is mostly always airborne and one that rarely "lands", there is no need for a residual to be left behind when treating. A good example would be the METERED FLY MACHINES which use actives like METERED AEROSOL. These release a quick 1 second blast of product which is only active for a short time period and usually in a very small area. Even though they don't provide residual they are quite effective when installed correctly. Thermal foggers can also cover a much larger area than traditional "wet" applications so in theory you can treat a larger area with less chemical and in far less time. Yet if you review our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll note we don't feel the use of a thermal fogger is really needed for the average person treating the average yard.

So in summary, we are of the belief that the use of a thermal fogger can reduce the length of time any residual active ingredient might last when compared to the same active being applied with a water base. But will this really matter? That's the key question to ask here and the answer to this question will require a lot more answers far beyond the scope of this post. Give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 for more information on any of the subject matter cited above and for your convenience, here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

Thermal Fogger:  http://www.bugspray.net/catalog/products/page2018.html

Deodorized Oil: http://www.bugspray.net/catalog/products/page2021.html

Metered Fly Machines:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Metered Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

As you know, mosquitoes in the home present a direct threat to you and your babies. I suggest you start treating with one of the aerosol products we have featured in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE.

The METERED AEROSOL option can be set up in a few locations around the home where mosquitoes have been found to enter. You get to control when the AEROSOL MACHINES go off and since they will be automatic, there won't be any need for you to worry about when to treat. Just remember to replace the refills when they run dry.

If you prefer to spray at your own leisure, get some AQUACIDE AEROSOL which you'll be able to control manually as needed. Most people find treating in the evening will get most any flying pest problem they might have inside.

Lastly, we also have the organic FLYING INSECT KILLER which would be used exactly the same way as the Aquacide. Just spray a little bit as needed in rooms where the mosquitoes are active and you should be able to keep them under control throughout the summer months.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Metered Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Aerosol Machine:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1926.html

Aquacide Aerosol: http://www.bugspray.com/item/aquacide_aerosol.html

Organic Flying Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/flying-insect-killer-14-oz

There would be no danger to the local bats nor is there any chance of them getting sick if you started to fog in your yard to control the local mosquito population. There are several reasons; the following are but just three.

First, insecticides target insects. Though earlier products were "strong" enough to affect non target organisms like mammals, the latest products (and the ones we endorse) aren't anything like their earlier ancestors. In fact, most every product that poses any hazard to the environment, people or pets has been taken off the market. Today's actives are as safe as can be and are allowed to be produced only if they prove they're safe. To prove their safety, they must undergo rigorous testing with one of the main objectives being exposure to non target animals won't be a threat. With this being the case, we are certain the items we have listed in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE for fogging won't be a danger to the plants, people or animals when used as directed. The real hazard is in the storage of these products since they are concentrated. One must be sure to keep them out of reach to children and pets. But once mixed and diluted down, the finished spray is mild and in fact so safe that many of the products we have listed include labeling for use directly on animals! Remember, dogs, horses and other animals will readily lick themselves so if these products can be sprayed on them and then the animal licks themselves, aren't they ingesting some? Absolutely. And the only way these products would have a label that allows them to be sprayed on animals would be if in doing so, the animals were not putting themselves in danger. And though a bat might be smaller than a dog or horse, there is just no way they'd ever be able to get a significant amount of pesticide from any mosquito they were to eat.

Second, it's important to understand how the products work when fogged around the home. Remember, mosquitoes are able to fly. They're also able to hide amongst the brush and thick vegetation where they prefer moisture and shade. Only when actively feeding will they emerge. The use of a fog is an effective way to target an otherwise elusive pest that can avoid most standard liquid treatments. Fogs and mists will fly around and stay airborne for several minutes. During this time they'll envelope the area being treated, which should be low to the ground in the 1-8 foot range. Most mosquitoes will stay in the 1-4 foot range as the bulk of "food" for them will be found in this air space. So too should your fogging. When done right, the mist will be present for a few minutes and during this time it will coat local vegetation killing any mosquitoes that might be present. Within moments it will all be gone so even if bats were to fly in the area 5-10 minutes later, it's not likely they'll encounter any of the treatment as it all will have settled. But even if they did encounter air with active product in it, the chemical will be so dispersed there is just no chance it could impact them since bats are so much more complex compared to a mosquito.

Third, any mosquitoes that are in the treatment area will die within minutes of the treatment. Unlike spraying for roaches and ants which can take days to kill the targeted insect, mosquito sprays work quickly because mosquitoes are easy to kill. This means there won't be any "treated" mosquitoes flying around for the bats to ingest but even if there was, the amount any bat could ingest to have an impact would have to be thousands of times more concentrated to bother them. True, bats can eat hundreds of mosquitoes an hour. But if you fog properly, there won't be any mosquitoes flying for them eat and bats are quick to learn this so they'll quickly move on searching elsewhere to find food.

So to summarize, the use of our FOGGERS around the home in the yard won't pose a hazard to people , pets or bats when used properly. the PERMETHRIN is very safe (labeled for use on dogs, cattle and other animals) as is the ECO IC. Use one of these actives and in theory, even if you sprayed a bat directly they'd be fine.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Foggers:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters

Permethrin 10:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

ECO IC Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate