Motorcycle And Car

2015 Literbike Spec Chart Comparo

2014-11-23T13:48:00.001+07:00

If you’re like us, then you must be salivating over the 2015 literbike prospects. With no less than eight new bleeding-edge sportbikes on the table from both European and Japanese marques, the bar is being raised in the quest for track domination or,
in the case of the KAWASAKI H2 and H2R, simply having the rider experience intense acceleration like they’ve never felt before. However, there’s an interesting trend in the method in which each manufacturer is going about upping the literbike ante. More and more, a greater emphasis is placed on technology and electronics rather than hardware. Sure, hardware isn’t being ignored, but with today’s bikes making so much power, being able to harness it effectively is of utmost importance.
With that, we’ve compiled a list of eight new or significantly updated 2015 literbikes vying for superbike supremacy in the coming year. They are: the Aprilia RSV4 RR and RF, BMWS1000RR, Ducati 1299 Panigale and 1299 Panigale S, Kawasaki Ninja H2 and YamahaR1 and R1M. In the below spec chart, we’ve broken down each bike’s vital stats, then at the bottom listed a few pertinent technologies and which bikes are equipped with them. Models with different variants (like the Aprilia, Ducati and Yamaha) are grouped together to save space and hopefully make the chart a little easier to read. Of course, you might notice the exclusion of the Kawasaki Ninja H2R. This wasn’t an oversight – since the H2R is not road legal, it serves no practical purpose in this comparison.

Interesting Insights

With all of the various models lined up side-by-side, some interesting observations stand out. For starters, it’s remarkable the Ducati 1299 Panigale pistons are a gargantuan 116mm. The displacement bump to 1285cc is a welcome sight, but we were expecting Ducati to increase stroke in the already highly oversquare Superquadro engine.

The Kawasaki H2 isn’t meant for the track like the others here, but its immense power and sporting intent carve a space for it in this comparison. From there, the next development is the race to 200 crankshaft horsepower. The two Italian brands are the only ones who claim to have exceeded that mark, though the BMW, Kawasaki and Yamaha are so close it’s understandable if one decides to round up. In the case of the Kawasaki, it’s plausible to think Team Green was being a bit conservative, considering the H2R, whose engine is largely similar to the H2, is claimed to put out 300 hp. Of note is the fact Aprilia uses a relatively high 13.6:1 compression ratio to help meet the 200 hp target, while the Kawasaki H2 uses just 8.5:1 to cope with the added boost from the supercharger. More importantly, the H2 should trounce the other four-cylinders in the torque department, bested only by the larger Ducati Twin, at least according to the factory claims.

Of course, the real talking point here is the proliferation of electronics. Each bike comes equipped with power modes and traction control as standard equipment. ABS also comes standard on all the bikes, but Ducati and Yamaha both get bonus points for equipping the new 1299 Panigale and the (linked, IMU controlled) R1/R1M with forms of Cornering ABS, which can reduce the risk of falling should you need to grab a handful while leaned over.

Normally if you were to grab a handful of front brake, you’d crash. With Ducati’s Cornering ABS, the odds of that happening are significantly reduced. This is made possible via an Inertial Measurement Unit, or IMU, which is equipped on both the Ducati and Yamaha. With the ability to measure parameters like pitch, roll, yaw, and a G-sensor to track acceleration fore-aft, up-down and left-right, Ducati uses the IMU to interface with the ABS, wheelie control and Ohlins electronic suspension on the 1299 Panigale S. Yamaha doesn’t outright claim the R1 and R1M has the Cornering ABS function, however, it does claim the pressure provided to the ABS and UBS (Unified Braking System) is determined from readings given from the IMU.

Along with the Ducatis, BMW’s S1000RR sees clutchless downshifting as one of its many features. Another cool feature is the ability to downshift without the clutch, which is standard on the Ducati and optional on the S1000RR. Being able to keep your hands firmly on the bars for both upshifting and downshifting means a rider will be able to focus more on the road or track ahead, and less on rev matching and being smooth with the clutch.

MotoGP For The Masses

Perhaps the biggest winner in the technology battle for 2015 is Yamaha. While Kawasaki relentlessly teased the world with countless H2 and H2R videos, the Yamaha R1 and R1M brings to the table a stunning package of MotoGP-derived tech. It takes traction control a step further with banking-sensitive TC, and raises the bar yet again with its slide control function. The R1M utilizes the IMU to allow the electronic Ohlins suspension to automatically adjust rebound and compression damping, in real time, to the street or track conditions.

Loaded with an abundance of cutting-edge technology unlike anything we’ve seen before, the R1 and R1M (seen here) might as well have Valentino Rossi’s number 46 slapped across the nose. All but the H2 have some sort of data logging capability, but the R1M really impresses with its exclusive Communication Control Unit. Using the CCU and GPS antenna, running data can be recorded via a data logger, with track mapping and lap times managed by GPS. That information can then be transferred to an Android or iOS app, and after analyzing the data, setting changes can be made and uploaded to the R1M via WiFi. It’s an amazing bit of technology unheard of before.

The technology at play here is complex, so we’ll have to wait for further info from OEMs to properly dissect it. The intent here is to break down each bike’s specs, to serve as a central resource to sate your curiosity. It will still be a few months before we get to ride most of these models, and when we do, we’ll provide a more in-depth look at their respective systems.

	Aprilia RSV4 RR/RF	BMW S1000RR	Ducati 1299 Panigale/ Panigale S	Kawasaki Ninja H2	Yamaha R1/R1M
MSRP	TBA	TBA	TBA	$25,000.00	$16,490/$21,990
Engine Capacity	999.6cc	999cc	1285cc	998cc	998cc
Engine Type	Liquid-cooled, DOHC, four-stroke, 65-degree V4, 4 valves per cylinder	Liquid-cooled, DOHC, four-stroke, inline-Four, 4 valves per cylinder	Liquid-cooled, DOHC, L-Twin, four-stroke, Desmodromic valve actuation	Liquid-cooled, DOHC, four-stroke, supercharged inline-Four, 4 valves per cylinder,	Liquid-cooled, DOHC, four-stroke, inline-Four, 4 valves per cylinder
Bore x Stroke	78.0mm x 52.3mm	80.0mm x 49.7mm	116mm x 60.8mm	76.0mm x 55.0mm	79.0mm x 50.9mm
Compression Ratio	13.6:1	13.0:1	12.5:1	8.5:1	13.0:1
Horsepower (claimed at crankshaft)	201.0 hp @ 13,000 rpm	199.0 hp @ 13,500 rpm	205.0 hp @ 10,500 rpm	197.3 hp @ 11,000 rpm	197.1 @ TBA
Torque (claimed at crankshaft)	84.8 lb-ft. @ 10,500 rpm	83.0 lb-ft. @ 10,500 rpm	106.7 lb-ft. @ 8,750 rpm	103.5 lb-ft. @ 10,000 rpm	TBA
Front Suspension	Sachs 43mm inverted fork, fully adjustable/Ohlins fork with TiN treatment, fully adjustable	46mm inverted fork, adjustable for rebound and compression damping	Marzocchi 50mm inverted fork, fully adjustable/Ohlins NIX30 43mm inverted fork w/TiN treatment. Electronic compression and rebound adjustment w/semi-active mode	43mm inverted KYB Air-Oil-Separate fork, fully adjustable.	43mm inverted KYB fork, fully adjustable/Ohlins 43mm inverted fork w/electronic suspension, fully adjustable
Rear Suspension	Sachs monoshock with piggyback reservoir, fully adjustable/Ohlins monoshock with piggyback reservoir, fully adjustable	Monoshock, adjustable for rebound and compression damping	Sachs shock, fully adjustable/Ohlins TTX36 shock. Electronic compression and rebound adjustment w/semi-active mode	KYB shock, piggyback reservoir, high/low speed compression, rebound and preload adjustability	KYB monoshock w/piggyback reservoir, 4-way adjustable/Ohlins single shock w/electronic suspension and piggyback reservoir, 4-way adjustable
Front Brakes	Dual 320mm discs. Twin Brembo M430 monoblock radial 4-piston calipers. ABS with switchable Rear Lift-up Mitigation	Dual 320mm discs. Twin radial-mount 4-piston calipers. Switchable ABS	Dual 330mm discs. Twin Brembo M50 monoblock, radial-mount calipers. Cornering ABS standard	Dual 330mm discs. Twin Brembo radial-mount, monoblock 4-piston calipers (M50?), ABS	Dual 320mm discs. Twin 4-piston, radially mounted calipers, Unified Braking System, ABS
Rear Brakes	220mm disc. Brembo twin-piston caliper	220mm disc. Single-piston caliper	245mm disc. Twin-piston caliper w/Cornering ABS standard	250mm disc. Twin-piston caliper, ABS	220mm disc. UBS, ABS
Front Tire	120/70-17	120/70-17	120/70-17	120/70-17	120/70-17
Rear Tire	200/55-17	190/55-17	200/55-17	200/55-17	190/55-17 / 200/55-17
Seat Height	33.0 in. (2014)	32.1 in.	32.7 in.	32.5 in.	33.7 in./33.9 in.
Wheelbase	56.4 in.	56.1 in.	56.6 in.	57.3 in.	55.3 in.
Rake/Trail	24.5 deg/4.1 in	23.5 deg/3.9 in.	24.0 deg/3.8 in.	24.5 deg/4.1 in.	24.0 deg/4.0 in.
Curb Weight (claimed)	397 lbs. (dry weight)	449 lbs.	420 lbs.	524.5 lbs.	439 lbs./443 lbs.
ABS	X/X	X	X/X	X	X/X
Cornering ABS			X/X
Magnesium wheels					X/X
Forged aluminum wheels	No/Yes	(optional)	X/X
Titanium connecting rods					X/X
Titanium valves	X/X	X	X/X (intake only)		X/X (intake only)
Supercharger				X
Aluminum fuel tank					X/X
Smartphone app	X/X				Optional/Standard
Electronic suspension		(optional w/Dynamic Package)	No/Yes		No/Yes
Quickshifter	X/X	(optional w/Dynamic Package)	X/X	X	X/X
Clutchless downshift ability		(optional w/Dynamic Package)	X/X
Power modes	X/X	X	X/X	X	X/X
Traction control	X/X	X	X/X	X	X/X
Slide control					X/X
Launch control	X/X	(optional w/Dynamic Package)		X	X/X
Wheelie control	X/X	X	X/X	(via TC)	X/X
Engine brake control			X/X	X
Inertial Measurement Unit			X/X		X/X
GPS telemetry	Via smartphone app	Optional	Optional/Optional		Optional/Standard

This article was take from : http://www.motorcycle.com/shoot-outs/2015-literbike-spec-chart-comparo

Land Rover Planning Diesel-Electric Plug-In Hybrid Range Rover Sport for Geneva

2012-03-26T21:17:00.005+07:00

Promising to worsen the fuel efficiency problem, Land Rover is set to unveil the Range_e, a diesel-electric plug-in hybrid version of the Range Rover Sport, at the Geneva auto show in early March.

Details on the truck are in short supply, but Land Rover says that the Range_e features the company’s 3.0-liter
diesel V-6, paired with a plug-in parallel hybrid system. Although the company is promising that the Range_e includes four-wheel drive, it’s unclear whether both the electric and diesel motors route power through the ZF-supplied automatic transmission, or whether the system is more like Volvo’s diesel-electric plug-in hybrid concept also coming to Geneva, where the diesel powers two wheels and the electric motor is responsible for the other two. The Range_e will offer an electric-only range of 20 miles, and will pack a top speed—presumably using both powerplants—of roughly 120 mph.
Even if the Range_e does enter production, U.S. sales are unlikely, as the federalization costs would be dwarfed by low sales volume. That’s fine with us; we’ll be able to conserve hyphens.

Article taken from : http://otocontest.com/car/suv/land-rover-planning-diesel-electric-plug-in-hybrid-range-rover-sport-for-geneva

Dial In Your Ride

2012-03-17T20:25:00.002+07:00

Simple and effective modifications to get you started down the road to sportbike nirvana

Once upon a time, motorcycle manufacturers produced just one type of bike: the Universal Japanese Motorcycle (UJM). Each proud new owner started with what was effectively a generic bike, then set it up with the special parts that defined what type of riding that person preferred. If you wanted a sportbike, you bolted on some low bars and rearset footpegs and voila, you had a sportbike. Then the '80s happened, and superbike racing drove the manufacturers to begin specializing their production bikes. Thus was born the production superbike and the arrival of the amazing GSX-Rs and CBRs that we fawn over today. While a modern sportbike is often awe-inspiring in stock form, a few simple modifications can make these already supremely competent motorcycles even better. The tips and tweaks presented on the following
pages range in price from free to thousands of dollars, but each one will provide a notice-able difference in performance and will take you one step closer to sportbike nirvana.

Exhaust & Carburetion
Not too many years ago, one of the quickest ways to increase the performance of your motorcycle was to pull off the heavy and restrictive stock exhaust system and replace it with a lighter, higher-flowing aftermarket one. Well, there's no free lunch, and the after-market units were significantly louder than stock--negating, through the ill will of the general public, some of their impressive perfor-mance gains.

Two things have happened in recent years, though. First, the OE systems have become significantly lighter and capable of flowing almost as much volume as aftermarket systems. Because of the improvement in stock systems, you can no longer count on instan-taneous double-digit percentage of power increase after mounting an aftermarket exhaust. Similarly, replacement exhaust manufacturers have become more socially conscious in their approach to making less noise with their systems while still offering improvements in power delivery.

Although installing an exhaust...

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Exhaust Systems
Aftermarket exhaust modifications fall into two categories: full systems and slip-ons. The full systems replace the entire stock system. High-end exhausts with titanium headers still offer fair weight savings compared to the stock ones. Some headers have various tapers and crossovers to enhance low- and midrange torque while still improving top-end power. In fact, some systems offer minimal gains in peak power, choosing to instead shape the power curve for more midrange and a broader horsepower peak.

However, one possible disadvantage of aftermarket systems is that they require the removal of the servo-controlled valves that some OE exhausts use for better low-end power. Although installation of a full system is a relatively easy modification, many riders choose to mount slip-on systems. These range from simply bolting a canister to the stock S-bend of the header or replac-ing the exhaust from a mid-point back.

Since the system becomes a hybrid of OE and aftermarket components, the power gains are mini-mized. Still, if your bike has a heavy muffler, shaving those few pounds can be the same as adding some horsepower. Also, slip-ons don't require the removal of exhaust control valves such as Yamaha's EXUP system.

Installing this Two Brothers...

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After installing a new system,...

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Jet Kits
All riders, not just racers, benefit from having a properly carbureted bike. While an aftermarket pipe may make your bike more powerful, making sure the carbs are properly jetted will result in more power and improved power delivery--whether you have a hot pipe bolted on or not. For example, getting optimum power and smoothness out of an inline-four may require different needle or jet settings for the center carburetors and the outer ones. Often, once the needles and jets are set correctly for all the carbs, a bike wakes up, producing more horsepower in the midrange, revving quicker and sounding significantly smoother.

Even on bikes with stock exhausts, the midrange can be overly lean, making acceleration in the range streetbikes spend most of their time feel soggy. Simply raising the needles a bit will solve this problem. So, don't think you only need a jet kit for piped bikes. If you have any problems with your bike's carburetion, consult the aftermarket. A fix is probably available.

Installing a Power Commander...

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Fuel Injection Remapping
When sportbikes began to arrive in showrooms with factory fuel injection, changing a bike's mixture was significantly more difficult than with carburetors.

Now that the aftermarket has had a few years to develop some solutions, you can buy systems with alternative injection maps for both stock and modified bikes. For example, systems like Dynojet's Power Commander and Yoshimura's EMS come preprogrammed with fuel delivery curves for your bike. Both fuel injection modules will also allow you how to alter these curves in the low-, middle-, and high-rpm ranges through the use of buttons on the units.

The real power of a fuel-injection...

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The real power, however, lies in computer software that allows for control over fuel flow in increments as small as 500 rpm. This is the ultimate tinkerer's tool! Also, many shops that offer dyno tuning also have computers that can upload maps specific to your bike's characteristics after dyno testing.

These magic boxes don't just offer EFI tuning, though. The Yoshimura EMS connects to an accessory hub that can allow the rider to switch between three fuel curves while riding or install a shift light or ignition-related accessories. Similarly, the Power Commander features an expansion port for other modules that are being developed.

These Factory Pro Tuning velocity...

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Brakes
From all the attention focused on motorcycle engines, you'd think that gasoline fuels the most powerful system on a bike. You'd be wrong, though. Another liquid--hydraulic fluid--carries that honor. Brakes can scrub off speed faster than an engine can increase it. Consequently, maintaining your bike's brake system is para-mount to extracting maximum performance from it.

Upgrades to some components can give you more than just better stopping cap-ability and/or better feel from the binders. Aftermarket discs are often lighter than stockers and can therefore help acceleration and steering.

Installing new pads is a maintenance...

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Brake Pads
Yes, you could run your brake pads to the absolute limits of their service, but performance often decreases before you run up against the prescribed wear limits. So ignore the wear marks--plan on replacing your pads when a minimum of 2 mm of the pad material remains.

When choosing new brake pads, you're faced with an array of options. If you don't have the time or desire to research what pads will give you the best stopping power in the conditions you ride in, simply buy the OE replacement items. Bike manufacturers spend a lot of time developing pad compounds for their sporting machinery, and you can't go wrong with these pads.

While the difference in thickness...

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You want pads that deliver consistent stopping power throughout the range of speeds you're traveling--not a lightswitch-like transition from little grip to maximum grip. Consequently, race compounds may not be ideal for street purposes. Talk to the manufacturer first, as some race pads need to build up heat to work properly.

Most pad manufacturers do a good job of describing the type of riding different compounds are designed for. Just be honest about the type of riding you do when deciding. If you're buying aftermarket pads and your bike's original pads were sintered (which would in-clude all current models), you should only use sintered compounds on your discs.

Stronger brake performance,...

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Braided Stainless Steel Lines
Although you can't see OE brake lines expand when you squeeze the lever like you could in the Bad Old Days, fitting a set of braided stainless steel brake lines to your sportbike can have a dramatic effect on your bike's stopping power. The initial onset of braking will be much quicker since stainless lines don't expand at all. Because the lines are sheathed in metal (usually with a protective plastic outer coating), you don't have to worry about stainless lines cracking from age and exposure to the sun. Also, the Teflon interior line is less prone to becoming brittle than rubber lines. Oh yeah, and they look cool, too.

Most of the major line manufacturers, like Goodridge, have pre-measured kits available for almost every sportbike manufactured in the last 10 years. You shouldn't have any problem finding stainless lines for your ride. However, if you've modified your bike by raising or lowering the bars or extending the swingarm, you'll probably want to have a custom-length kit ordered specially for you. Some manufacturers offer build-'em-yourself kits where you cut the lines and attach the fittings at home.

Braking Wave rotors offer...

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Aftermarket Discs
While brake pad technology has advanced to the point where compounds providing quick stops don't necessarily mean you wear your discs out that much faster, you may find a time when you want to replace your discs. The good news is that aftermarket discs are usually lighter and grippier than OE pieces.

What you get for your money is pretty impressive. Almost all front discs are now floating models, meaning the swept area of the disc is loosely mounted on a carrier. This space between the pieces allows the disc to expand without warping in high-temperature situations. Also, since the swept area and the carrier now have un-related jobs, their construction can vary more widely. For example, high-carbon stainless steel is fairly common for the abrasive surface. Cast iron has also been used here.

You won't find carbon-fiber swept areas on street bikes since they require heat to work properly. Recently, wave-patterned discs have entered the fray. Aside from the obvious lessening of unsprung weight, the manufacturers say that the wave shape lets a disc expand without deforming under heavy use. Laser-cutting of the disc is now a common practice, ensuring a smooth surface on the swept area. The carrier can vary from mundane (and heavy) steel to aluminum or even featherweight carbon fiber.

Sticky Metzeler M-1 rubber...

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Wheels & Tires
What can be said about tires? They're black and round and keep the wheels from touching the ground, right? Actually, they are your only link to the asphalt when you're riding your sportbike. Motorcycle and tire manufacturers spend more time studying how tires interact with the road than any of us can imagine.

The amazing increase in sporting machinery's capabilities owes as much to tire advances as it does to suspension and engine improvement. When it comes to wheels, lighter is always better, but wheels also play an important role in how your bike steers--even how stable it is in a straight line.

Choosing The Right Tire
If bikes have refined their focus, tires have become laser beams directed at very specific activities. Race tires and street tires both benefit from these advances. Race tires are designed to give maxi-mum grip for an extremely limited time. To make things even more specific, they are formulated to work at temperatures only achieved at track speeds. Below those temperatures, they can be downright scary.

The tire companies are even tuning their street tires for different levels of sport riding. If you're the kind of rider who commutes, travels and runs the twisties on the weekend, you'll be fine with the OE tires for your bike. Suppose you're the type of rider that only canyon scratches or attends track days. Well, the premium-model sport tires are what you'll want to run. According to Jeff Johnson from Metzeler/Pirelli, Pirelli's Diablo tires were designed for riders who spend about 30 percent of their time on the track and 70 percent on the street. The Diablo Corsa has someone who spends 70 percent of the time at the track and 30 percent on the street as its intended user. Rubber compounds have gotten that specific.

The best places to find information about who the manufacturers directed a particular tire toward are the manufacturers themselves. They know that, if they're designing tires for specific riders, they need to let those riders know what the differences are.

Instead of worrying about which tire is stickier, you should concentrate on things like the tire profile. Are you the kind of rider who likes to slam your bike on its side and rail through corners at maximum lean? A more triangular profile, with its quicker steering and larger contact patch at full lean, will be more suited to you. If you're a rider who trail brakes into turns, hanging at the outside, waiting to see where the pavement goes before committing to your final line, you should look at rounder profiles that have a larger contact patch for braking while upright and allow for easier adjust-ment of lines mid-corner.

Similarly, you should look into what riders and tire manufacturers recommend for the type of riding conditions you're likely to face. If most of your favorite roads are pretty bumpy, you'll be looking for a tire with a softer carcass to allow the tread to flex over the bumps. If rain is a regular occurrence in your region, pay special attention to a tire's silica content for wet pavement grip. Also, while the big, blocky tread of some hyper-sport tires look sexy, you can end up doing the two-wheel two-step with them in the wet. Some tires have a reputation for taking a long time to warm up in cooler temperatures, so consider the season when you buy new rubber.

Finally, only use tires that are designed to fit on your particular rims. Putting bigger tires on your rim may not give you the bigger contact patch you desire. Since the carcass will be squeezed smaller to fit, the carefully designed profile will be erased.

Aftermarket Wheels
In its most basic sense, installing a set of aftermarket wheels is no more difficult than remounting the stock rims after a tire change or brake disc swap--except for the extra money and massive street cred. Seriously, though, mounting up a set of forged magnesium wheels gets you more than a big credit card bill. Adding lighter wheels can, arguably, deliver the most bang for the buck of any motorcycle modification.

Even though the OEs have wised up and started producing some exceptionally light wheels, any reduction in unsprung weight (weight not supported by the suspension) makes it easier for your suspenders to help the tires track across pavement irregularities. Even saving a couple of pounds here is a big deal. Replace wheels on a bike more than a couple of years old, and you can could save as much as 10 pounds.

Next, consider the weight of the wheel at its rim. As Kevin Cameron says in Sportbike Performance Handbook, "A pound saved in a wheel rim...is worth 2 pounds anywhere else on the machine. A wheel has to be accelerated twice; once in a straight line, and also in the second sense of rotating around its own center." Since wheels rotate, generating gyroscopic forces, a lighter wheel will turn quicker and accept steering inputs more readily. Riders who like flicking their bikes into turns will love the effect lighter wheels have on steering.

On bikes with traditional...

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Suspension
Today, the average street rider has suspension technology and adjustments that were only available to the factory racers a mere five years ago. This is a mixed blessing.

Proper suspension setup is key for fast, safe riding, but approach suspension tuning in a willy nilly fashion, and you'll have an ill-handling beast in no time flat. If you follow an orderly path, you'll not only improve your bike's handling but also become a more perceptive rider in the process. The beauty of these mods is that they are completely free.

On bikes with inverted forks,...

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Setting Sag
Proper sag is important because a suspension unit needs a certain amount of room within its travel to work properly. If you have too little sag, your bike will be prone to topping out the suspension as it extends to its limit. Similarly, too little sag could allow you to exper-ience the unpleasant jolt of bottoming out. Your bike's sag is broken into two categories: "static sag," the distance your bike compresses its suspension from fully extended when you climb on board; and "free sag," the distance your bike settles from full extension under its own weight.

In order to measure static sag, you'll need two assistants. A metric tape measure will also make the calculations easier than an SAE one. Before you mount the bike, measure the suspension completely topped out. To measure the fork's static sag, lift on the grips until the front wheel begins to come off the ground. On traditional forks, measure from the stanchion wiper to the bottom of the triple clamp. Measure from the wiper to the top of the axle clamp on inverted forks. Mark this number "L1."

Pick a spot directly above...

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Now, have one of your assistants hold the bike from the rear while you get in position on the bike. Your other assistant should push down on the fork and let it slowly rise up until it stops. The new measure-ment will be called "L2." The front end should now be lifted and allowed to settle slowly down until it stops, forming measurement "L3." Exactly in the middle of measurements L2 and L3 is the point the fork would want to live in a frictionless system.

Armed with this information, you can determine the static sag by subtracting the average measurement calculated above from L1. To write it out as an equation, it would look like this: static sag = L1 - (L2 + L3) / 2. For street riding, suspension gurus generally agree that between 30 and 35 mm (1.2-1.5 inches) is optimum sag. If you're track-bound, a stiffer 25 to 30 mm (1.0-1.2 inches) is preferred. If you have too much sag, you'll need to increase the fork's preload. Conversely, if you have too little, back off on the preload a bit.

Once you have the front suspension dialed in, repeat the process with the rear suspension. The key to getting accurate measurements out back is to pick a solid point on the frame or bodywork directly above the axle. If you don't measure straight up from the axle, you may get inaccurate numbers.

All you need is a screwdriver...

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Setting Damping
Begin by setting your bike's damping adjusters to the factory specified positions (listed in your owner's manual). They probably won't stay there, but the settings should get you in the general area. Damping adjusters measure their settings in one of two ways: clicks or turns. If your bike uses clicks, turn the adjuster all the way in (clockwise) and unscrew the adjuster the correct number of clicks. For turns, do the same thing but count the turns instead of clicks.

To test your fork's rebound damping, stand your bike straight up. Press firmly down on the center of the triple clamp (not the handle-bar). Don't hold the brake. The suspension should rebound back to its starting point and not beyond. If it bounces back beyond the ori-ginal position, then you need to add some rebound damping by screwing the rebound adjuster on top of the fork inward. Generally, make adjustments in single clicks or half-turns. If the fork rises back directly to its original position, press on the triple clamp and time how long it takes to rise back. You want the rebound to take about a second. Adjust the rebound damp-ing until you feel the timing is right. Follow the same procedure in the rear, pressing on the center of the seat. The shock's rebound adjuster is usually on the bottom of the shock body.

Although you can test your suspension settings anywhere, the best way to get an accurate measurement of changes is to repeatedly ride the same section of road. Dial in the front and rear suspension separately. To get a feel for what direction you need to go with your compression damping, ride your test road with the compression set to the factory specs to form a base line. Next, go a couple of clicks firmer. Did the handling improve or get worse? Now try a couple clicks softer than stock. Which of the three settings do you prefer? Keep experiment-ing. Take notes. When you're satisfied with the front suspension, continue the process with the rear.

If you need more adjustments,...

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The challenge of setting up your suspension is that some symptoms can be caused by completely opposite problems. For example, if the front of your bike has a vague mushy feeling, you could be suffering from either a lack of compression damping or rebound damping. Looking for other symptoms will help you determine which setting to alter.

When you're happy with how your bike's suspenders perform, try one last test to make sure that you have balanced settings. Support the bike without any stands and press firmly on the tank. The front and rear suspension should compress and rebound in unison. If either end compresses or rebounds differently from the other, try altering the settings slightly to get the chassis movement in synch.

--Evans Brasfield is currently writing 101 Sportbike Performance Projects, set to be published by Motorbooks International later this year. The material in this article was adapted from that manuscript.

Maximizing Engine Power (CAR Modification)

2012-03-13T18:39:00.000+07:00

by "Langer"

The four stroke engine.

Custom-car.us is all about engine tuning and car performance; so if you want to know about car tuning, how to increase engine power and how to modify your car, then you've come to the right place.
However, before we can start talking about engine tuning and increasing engine power and torque, we first need to have a basic understanding of how an internal combustion engine produces power. Therefore, over the next few pages of this section, we'll discuss the various basic concepts and principles of the internal combustion engines and the common terms used to discuss engine modifications, such as volumetric efficiency, engine displacement and air density as all of these influence engine power and performance. We also have a glossary of car modification terms that you can check for the meaning of some of the terms we use on this site. Once we have a clear understanding of how a four stroke engine produces power, we can move on and start make our P.L.A.N.s to increase engine performance.
Although there are two types of internal combustion engines, namely the two stroke engine and the four stroke engine, we're only interested in car performance and since the two-stroke engine is not used on cars, we won't be discussing that engine here. Instead we'll focus out attentions soely on the four-stroke engine because custom-car.us is all about car tuning and because cars use the four-stroke engine and not the two-stoke engine. If you're looking for information about the two-stroke engine, you could try How Stuff Works or Wikipedia.

The Wankel rotary engine.

There are also numerous derivatives of the four stroke engine – diesel engines, petrol engines, four cylinder engines, straight sixes, boxer engines, rotary or wankel engines, turbocharged engines, supercharged engines, etc. With the marked exception of the rotary engine, all four stroke engines have a common basic design – they all consist of individual cylinders with pistons that are connected to a flywheel by a crankshaft, and they all make use of what is known as the Otto Cycle. This makes it fairly easy to discuss basic engine power concepts as we don't need to concern ourselves with V's and straights, boxers and horizontally opposed engines. Instead our discussion can and will be all about the four stroke internal combustion engine. In addition, the diesel engine has had a resurgence in recent years and has become more of a performance engine, especially the turbo-diesel engine. A lot of what we discuss here can be applied to modern diesel engines but there are some aspects of engine modification that are specific to diesel engines; for this reason we'll discuss diesel engines and diesel engine modifications on their own.
So let us begin by looking at the four strokes of the four stroke internal combustion engine otherwise known as the Otto cycle. You can skip this section if you're already familiar with the Otto cycle and head on over to basic engine power or engine building, but this section does tie into most of what we discuss on Custom-car.us. If you're intereseted in modifying diesel engines, hop on over to our page on diesel engines to find out how to apply our discussions to diesel engines.

Article taken from : http://www.custom-car.us/basics/default.aspx

Motorcycle Maintenance And Repair

2012-03-05T21:14:00.004+07:00

Motocross Maintenance - Looking After Your Chain

By: Guy Draper

While taking care of a motocross chain is one of the most key forms of motocross maintenance, it is also one that is frequently ignored by most riders. Many riders, whether they are bordering on semi-pro or are just starting out should always ensure that their motocross chain is regularly kept in tip top shape. This doesn't just mean cleaning, but also means adjusting the chain, as well as making sure both front and rear sprockets are in A1 condition at all times. Regardless of this fact, most riders select to ignore manufacturer's guidelines and skip or cut corners when doing their routine motocross maintenance.

Neglecting motocross maintenance and your chain in particular can have disastrous effects on your bike and your wallet.

A few tips:

- Make sure your chain is cleaned the best of your ability every single time you ride. Removing your chain from your bike is the easiest way to make sure that you are cleaning your chain effectively. Many motoring outlets will supply specialist brushes which are just the thing for getting into the nooks and crannies', ensuring this part of motorcross maintenance is competed correctly.
- There are hundreds of specialist cleaners that can be used, but ensure that once clean, your chain is never left to dry off on its own accord. Used cloths followed by a de-watering fluid such as WD40 to ensure that all water particles are removed from your chain. If left to dry on its own, your chain will swiftly rust and will be no better than junk, your time spent on motocross maintenance will be pointless!
- Not adjusting your chain correctly will result in inconsistent power delivery, excessive wear of the chain and of course excessive wear of both front and rear sprockets.
- Not adjusting and cleaning your chain correctly is important just like every other form of Motocross Maintenance. If it is not conducted on a regular basis, your chain will either disintegrate, or snap!

Right, so back to basics now!

Motocross maintenance of your chain is important and there are three fundamental components that ensure your chain is in tip top shape; cleaning, lubricating and adjusting.

Cleaning - As recommended, remove the chain from your bike first and get stuck in, ensure all dirt and dust particles are removed before drying off with cloths and de-watering agents such as WD40. WD40 and similar products are essential for motocross maintenance, they ensure that metal parts are free from water particles and therefore, rust!

Lubricating - Once clean and dry, ensure that your chain is correctly lubricated, using professional motocross maintenance lubricating agents.

Adjusting - Perhaps one of the most crucial parts of the process is ensuring that your chain is properly lubricated. In general, most manufacturers suggest that there is a 'play' of 15-20mm when the swing arm is sitting directly horizontal to the floor. Remember that this measurement is when the bike is standing freely rather than on a stand.

Get the latest Motocross news and tips at Motocross Mania and Motocross Gear Reviewed including the best gear and prices on the internet.

For more motorcycle articles visit: http://www.motorcycle-articles.com

2012 Honda CRF450R Off-Road Comparison

2012-02-24T17:53:00.000+07:00

Raised on two wheels in the deserts of Nevada, the newest addition to the MotoUSA crew has been part of the industry for well over 15 years.Equal parts writer, photographer, and rider, "JDawg" is a jack of all trades and even a master of some.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

The 2012 Honda CRF450R is the lightest and most compact bike in its class.Watch how it performs off the track in the 2012 Honda CRF450R 450 MX Off-Road Shootout Video.

Honda’s CRF450R has always been at the top of the score sheet in every shootout we’ve thrown it into for the past half decade, so we had the same expectations for its finish in this off-road battle. On the track the Honda is light, nimble and confidence inspiring for just about anyone that throws a leg over it. For 2012, Big Red continued refining the CRF with a handful of changes to the suspension and handling in a bid to remain at the top of the heap in the always-competitive 450cc Motocross classification. How did these slight changes pan out for off-road duty?

Before end hitting the trail it’s readily apparent the CRF is the lightest of the bunch and a trip to the MotoUSA scales confirms the assessment, weighing in at 241 pounds with it’s 1.5 gallon tank full of fuel. And that brings us to our first gripe on the Honda. While the lighter weight is always appreciated, the diminutive tank capacity left us stranded more than once while the rest of the group motored on to fetch gas for the poor soul on the CRF. Towards the end of a long ride you were forced to back ‘er down a notch in fear of running out of fuel and bogging when power was needed to save your skin. This took some of the fun out of the Honda.

The Honda CRF450R was one of the best bikes on the tighter single track trails thanks to its quick handling.

Hitting the tighter trails in Ocotillo the Honda was more than capable of leading the pack with it’s planted yet light front end. It absolutely ate up single track and technical rock sections, and when the occasional freeride jump presented itself the CRF was an excellent flier. However, when the speeds hit the top of the taller gears, things got a little intense.

“The only issue that was apparent was the high-speed stability. Most of the off-road riding we did had the Honda very twitchy when giving it the heat in 5th gear,” says our resident maniac Steeves. “This caused me to be more on-guard and gripping harder in fear of swapping out.”

This high-speed twitch went from bothersome in the desert to downright frightening in the dunes where front-end traction is high and speeds are even higher. Fiddling with the steering dampener had little effect on the flighty handling, leading us to believe that additional sag would be more effective in controlling the tendency but with six riders swapping out bikes in the dirt there was no time to dial it in for each rider.

Stiff suspension settings made the 2012 CRF450R one of the most fun bikes to air out in both the dunes and desert.

In the suspension department the Honda was one of the more stiff units in the test, which made it a hoot when sending off the big jumps in the dunes that often needed a GPS to measure the distance covered. When sizing up the biggest hits, the CRF was one of the first machines chosen to give it a go by our high fliers. The trade off in the trail riding, however, meant a rough ride that used a lot more energy to hold on through the whoops and rocks.

“We didn’t always set sag, or dial in the fork and shock every time we swapped bikes. So, there’s always room for improvement but the Kawasaki and Honda felt the stiffest and most moto-inspired of the bunch,” notes the always-wise Ken Hutchison. “This is not optimal for off-road riding, but I have no doubt they can both be dialed in to any rider’s personal preference. Keeping all things equal, it was definitely stiffer than the others.”

Twisting the throttle on the Honda rewards you with a nice spread of power from the SOHC aka Unicam mill. The engine wasn’t the most powerful of the bunch, but at the same time in was no slouch. Off the bottom and into the midrange is where is would give some juice away to the KX and RM-Z, but on top there was enough mojo to satisfy. Overall it was just a step behind the juggernauts of the class.

When out in desert comfort is key while pounding out the miles, and the CRF450R is relatively comfortable. However the smallish size overall seemed to hurt it in the scoring, as most of our riders preferred a larger cockpit for long days in the saddle. As usual all the controls were typical Honda perfection. On the binders the Honda shined, ranking near the top of every rider’s scoresheet.

With just a little more high-speed stability the CRF450R would have scored much higher in this showdown.

When the scores were tallied, to our surprise the Honda finished in fifth place in our very first 450 MX off-road shootout. Being such a track-focused ripper hurt the CRF with its smallish tank and compact rider compartment. But by far the most notable reason the CRF450R didn’t finish higher was the nervous handling when the throttle was put to the stop. Granted if this test was in the woods of North Carolina we may have been singing a different tune, as the Honda is still an amazing handler in every other situation.

Article taken from : http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/122/12248/Motorcycle-Article/2012-Honda-CRF450R-Off-Road-Comparison.aspx

Craziest modified motorcycles

2012-02-22T15:57:00.000+07:00

Custom motorcycles are modified to reflect the style, the vision and the artistic preference of a rider. You can customize any bike from a Harley Davidson to a Yamaha, Suzuki or Honda. Custom motorcycles stand out from the crowd and give an immense satisfaction to the rider. There are many companies that presently produce performance and custom parts for bikes, which enables motorcycle owners not only to personalize their bikes but also to improve or upgrade their performance.

The customization options are thus anything but scarce. While some modifications apply solely to design and involve changes of painting style or the use of chrome parts, others include serious modifications of the technical features. This means that some custom motorcycles go beyond the personalized look into a superior level of performance. Yet, most bikers will be pleased with simple changes of look, achieved by graphic effects, or by the addition of leather patches and other outfits.

It is quite popular to use all sorts of leather types, some more expensive than others. Thus, enthusiasts get custom motorcycles with saddlebags, seats and leather arm bands made of crocodile, calf skin, snake, ostrich or stingray. Such items certainly do not come cheap but there are plenty of bikers who’d spend their money on them. Besides this kind of accessories, other custom motorcycles are designed with specific graphics from skulls, shreds and flames to photo-realistic images and 3D raised images.

Not all local shops can accommodate your customization expectations, and sometimes the equipment necessary will have to be brought on special order or purchased on the Internet. The most important thing before starting to work on custom motorcycles is to know exactly what you want to achieve. If you do not have a clear idea, then, it will be more difficult to purchase the right supplies and you will feel like wasting your money.

Article taken from : http://megaodd.com/funny/craziest-modified-motorcycles/

Three Secrets of High Performance Engine Building

2012-02-16T12:17:00.001+07:00

Three Secrets of High Performance Engine Building
by Mike Nixon

Here are three significant concepts that can add to our understanding of the high performance engine. Each of these three topics is broad enough to involve a number of related issues, as we'll see. And as topics, together they represent some of the most searching analysis of what constitutes engine performance as you are likely to have recently considered. I hope you find them interesting. Enjoy.

Secret #1: Engine Efficiency
We begin our study with efficiency. The word means simply "what you get compared with what you wanted." Mathematically, efficiency is expressed as output divided by input. For example, 1000 BTU of energy in the form of fuel might be fed into an engine, and the result might well be 200 BTU of power output. That's 1000 in and 200 out, or 200 divided by 1000. This would indicate an efficiency of 20 percent. Let's look at engine efficiency in three steps, in the same order in which the engine deals with them.

Volumetric Efficiency
Efficiency begins in an engine with Volumetric Efficiency. Volumetric efficiency refers to how well the cylinder is filled. Most production powersports engines fill their cylinders less than 100 percent full. After air enters the cylinder and the intake valve closes, the cylinder typically contains less air volume than if you took the cylinder off the engine and set it out on your driveway! In other words, instead of having 14.7 psi of sea level air pressure in it, the cylinder has 13 psi or so. That is, a slight vacuum. The cylinder has been "charged" with less than its full capacity. And the engine must work with this amount, never getting any more than that due to design limitations. However, the engine can be altered to fill its cylinder more, and even over-fill it. If through one of several means we manage to get slightly more than normal capacity into the cylinder, ending up with say 16 psi instead of 14.7, we call the cylinder "supercharged." That's where the legendary supercharger gets its name -- it's simply a device that overfills the cylinder. The supercharger is mechanically driven from the engine and results in positive displacement of air -- the faster the engine turns, the more extra air that is pumped in. Another mechanical supercharging method is the use of the turbocharger, a supercharger that is driven by exhaust gases and therefore does not result in positive displacement. That is, the turbocharger's movement of air is not linearly proportional to engine revolution. However, supercharging does not have to be done mechanically. There are also non-mechanical means of supercharging the cylinder. A common one is through chemical supercharging. The use of alcohol, nitrous oxide and other oxygen bearing substances force added oxygen into the cylinder, with the result cylinder over-filling and over-pressurization. Finally, methods that are neither mechanical nor chemical are also used to coax more air into the cylinder. Pulse and inertia tuning are good examples of this kind of supercharging. Pulse tuning, for its part, capitalizes on the lengths and angles of the intake and exhaust tracts to harness the inevitable resonances within these tracts to performance advantage. Carefully calculated lengths and angles control pulses in the intake and exhaust tracts to persuade the charge to move faster or slower as needed to increase cylinder filling. Inertia tuning is very similar, but a little different. Inertia tuning juggles tract gas speed and density with valve timing for increased cylinder filling. Both pulse and inertia tuning are used to significant effect in today's high performance engines. Without them, the engine's cylinder would not be as completely filled, and power would be wasted.

Combustion Efficiency
But cylinder filling is just the first area of potential waste in the engine. Whether normally charged ("aspirated") or supercharged, once the charge is in the cylinder, it must be burned to unlock the fuel's BTU energy. And of course there is loss here too. Combustion Efficiency simply considers how much of this charge gets completely burned. The piston is moving all the time combustion takes place. It is still coming up as combustion starts, which actually promotes combustion but may lead to detonation, the instantaneous and massive explosion of the whole charge due to excessive heat and pressure, with the result a waste of BTU energy as the piston is hammered instead of pushed. Combustion is also ongoing as the piston strokes downward again. This downward movement rapidly changes the cylinder's pressure, discouraging steady flame movement across the cylinder. Other things that affect combustion efficiency are combustion chamber shape, intake tract air speed, and spark plug location. Flatter chambers burn more of their contents than do arched ones, which is why modern engines have such chambers. High intake charge speed promotes good combustion because the air and fuel stay more thoroughly mixed as they enter the cylinder. A centrally-located spark plug causes combustion's flame to reach deeper into the remote edges of the cylinder, turning more BTU into useful work, and eliminating the end-gases that often initiate detonation. During combustion then, some of the power we're trying to produce is lost, and we haven't even got to the crankshaft yet!

Thermal Efficiency
And the game still isn't over. The charge has entered the cylinder, and the combustion chamber has burned it, and each of these two has resulted in some inevitable waste in the power-producing process. However, there is more waste yet. There is still the conversion of that thermal energy into pressure, that is, "piston push". And there is loss here also. Thermal Efficiency therefore concerns itself with how much of the heat of combustion ends up actually pushing the piston downward. Usually, as much as 60 percent of combustion's heat is wasted heating up the engine or going out the exhaust pipe, leaving very little to drive the piston. Maximizing thermal efficiency is difficult, but not impossible. Well-shaped combustion chambers that finish their job quickly waste less of combustion's heat because there is less time for that heat to radiate away from the combustion process into the engine castings. Smaller chambers offer less surface area that will soak up combustion's heat, improving thermal efficiency even more. Coating the piston top, which is really the combustion chamber's floor, with a ceramic layer, also prevents heat absorption, this time into the piston, with the result greater piston pressure. Even higher cylinder compression can help, because it makes the charge more ready to burn, speeding up flame travel and resulting in more charge consumption. Combustion chamber design is so critical that engineers often use the engine's torque per cylinder to rate a combustion chamber's effectiveness. How much pressure the engine produces in a given size cylinder directly reflects the combustion chamber's efficiency. Even before the crankshaft turns, the first three steps in the power-producing transaction each waste some of the precious power that will ultimately be outputted.

Secret #2: The Role of Rpm
There are other engine efficiencies as well, such as Mechanical Efficiency and Power Stroke Efficiency, and these are very important also. But you get the idea. There are a lot of leaks in the engine's processes, and each one affects the one following it because the inefficient outcome of each step ends up being the next step's input, and already there is a loss. Plugging all these leaks (as well as possible) is the art of the high performance engine builder, and helps explain why performance engine building is so much work. The next concept to be considered, and the second "secret" of the high performance engine, is the interesting role and effects of rpm.

MEP vs. Rpm
There are just two major ingredients in horsepower. These are combustion's push (we have just looked at this in our consideration of thermal efficiency), and revolutions per minute (rpm). Combustion's push has a fancy name -- Mean Effective Pressure (MEP). MEP is simply the single pressure which, acting on the piston, could theoretically do the same work as all the sucking and blowing that goes on inside the cylinder. Engineers use MEP as an indicator of the stress on the engine from the inside-out -- i.e. the constant strain inside the pressurized container. The beauty of MEP is that it is platform-independent. It doesn't matter whether the engine is a four-stroke or a two-stroke, single cylinder or a V-12. It is concerned only with cylinder stress. However, cylinder pressure isn't alone. Before you can have power, you must also have time, and in an engine, time is measured in rpm. MEP and time go together. They are the twin giants holding up the horsepower universe -- the bookends bracketing all that is important about how an engine makes power. They are that significant. And, there is an interesting relationship between them -- they are essentially opposites. Find for example a high performance engine that makes its power through a lot of rpm, and you will discover (through calculation) that it produces a relatively low MEP. Conversely, the engine that produces power mostly through MEP will be one that doesn't need much rpm. Of course, many engines benefit from a careful combination of both, but even then, every engine works on an emphasis on one or the other, due to its internal design. This fact, the relationship between MEP and rpm, quickly evaporates all the barstool arguments. It also produces some fascinating conclusions. For example, to make a high-rpm engine make more power, do you perform modifications that make even more use of rpm, or do you go after MEP? Oddly, such an engine will usually respond best to modifications that increase MEP, not those which make use of rpm. Clearly then, contrary to popular wisdom, rpm is not always the major player in the game of increasing engine performance, even in high rpm engines.

Piston Speed
Some engines of course will need to be modified for higher rpm to get more power out of them. There are a number of problems that arise with high rpm however, and the first to be considered is the valve train. The four-stroke engine's valve train must be rigid enough and accurate enough to avoid "floating" its parts. Valve float is when the valve (and/or its operating parts) has accumulated so much inertia (through high speed) that the valve spring doesn't immediately return the valve after the cam lobe has passed. It's a dangerous thing because other parts intermittently share the same space, and interference is therefore inevitable. Along with detonation, valve float is every four-stroke engine builder's nightmare. But the valve train can be made to cope. Stronger springs, lighter valves, and less flexible (and even fewer) valve train components all result in more faithful adherence to the dictates of the camshaft and are therefore more high rpm compatible. The minimalist shim and bucket valve system for example evolved as a result of this quest for the ultimate valve train integrity. However, even with the valve train taken care of, rpm can still be a problem. The other reciprocating parts in the engine are also susceptible to being moved too quickly for their good. These are of course the piston and connecting rod. There is a limit to how fast these two relatively heavy parts can be yanked around. At some point, their inertia will just be too great, and the failure of the rod and even the crankshaft bearings (which absorb much of the rod's loading) will result. For this reason, an engine's Piston Speed has traditionally been a measure of its maximum safe rpm. Piston speed as a measurement was conceived back in the days of steel pistons that couldn't be thrown around too quickly without "fragging". Today however, though still referring to the piston by name, piston speed more than anything indicates the reciprocal loading on the connecting rod, not the piston. The piston's (and rod's) speed increases with rpm because the distance of its stroke never changes, though the crankshaft turns faster and faster and there is less time for the piston to traverse its stroke. The piston's speed is also anything but constant, since it stops at the top and bottom of its stroke. The piston's maximum speed then is actually near the middle of its stroke, and so calculated piston speed is really an average. The piston's speed also increases with stroke. That is, for a given rpm, an engine having a longer stroke pushes and pulls its piston faster. This is one big reason modern high rpm engines have relatively short strokes. What all this means is that when modifying an engine, piston speed is often the first consideration, even if it has little to do with the durability of the piston itself. It is rather a general rule of thumb for rpm.

Ring Flutter
Piston speed is an archaic design limit that has been violently stretched in recent years thanks mostly to advances in metallurgy. A modern sportbike has a piston speed in the 4,000 feet-per-minute range. Twenty years ago this was a racing-only level, yet now it's covered by a three-year factory warranty! Therefore, piston speed is no longer the rpm gauge that it once was, but more of a general limit depending on crankshaft and connecting rod technology. Everything else being equal (we have already dealt with the valve train), today's performance engine's rpm limit is indicated by something else entirely, and that is Ring Flutter. Ring flutter is a piston ring problem. The piston ring of course seals compression and combustion pressure inside the cylinder. But it doesn't do this job by itself, at least not during combustion. During combustion, high pressure gases get behind the ring and push it downward in its groove and outward against the cylinder wall. This is how a piston ring with only a few pounds of radial tension can resist over 1000 psi of peak combustion pressure. It borrows from that pressure. But this works only if the ring stays on the bottom of its groove. As rpm increase, the tendancy is for the ring to float upward, especially on the piston's downstroke. That's when it reaches maximum acceleration (near the middle of the piston's stroke) and at the same time almost completely loses effective combustion pressure. If the engine rpm is also very high, these three occurances (maximum acceleration point, loss of cylinder pressure, and very high rpm) combine to cause the piston to literally out-accelerate its own piston ring, leaving the ring momentarily "floating" in its groove. The ring drifts upward, off the bottom of the groove, and touches the top of the groove. This cuts off the path of whatever gases are present, and the ring then collapses inward on itself against combustion's forces, failing to seal the cylinder. The result is blowby of the residual gases past the piston, which reduces lubrication and overheats the piston and cylinder. Also, since the piston gets up to 80 percent of its cooling through its rings, and the ring isn't against the cylinder wall any more, the piston heats up even further, often to the point of seizure. There are a number of ways to prevent ring flutter. Obviously, keeping rpm down is one way. However, for a high rpm high performance engine, this is not an option. Another is for the engine to be built with a very short stroke. Even at high rpm, the short stroke moves its piston more slowly. This has commonly been the tactic used by modern engine designers. However, along with this is simply the use of thinner piston rings. Thinner rings are less massive. With their reduced weight, they build inertia more slowly and can withstand high acceleration without floating. All modern high performance engines use very thin piston rings. One of the advantages of using today's forged high performance pistons is that most of them are designed for very thin, high performance rings.

Rolling Element Bearing Failure
Older engine designs that still use rolling element bearings at their crankshafts and connecting rods can also develop rpm-related problems. These bearings aren't as high rpm compatible as their plain shell counterparts. Especially when they are undersized, as they are on Harley Evolution engines, a design rooted in the 1930s, yet one that favors high-rpm tuning. This engine's rolling element main and rod bearings can be spun so fast that their rollers skip across their races, ultimately damaging them. Such is the problem the many 150 hp big inch Harleys and clones are experiencing. These are not long-distance machines, with their connecting rod bearings becoming trash in just 5,000 miles.

Secret #3: Cylinder Head Basics
So we see that high rpm not only isn't always the route to added performance, but when it is the indicated path, it has its hurdles that must be dealt with. Being familiar with these issues is important. Finally, we come to high performance engine "secret" number 3 -- the four-stroke cylinder head. There is a lot of mystique surrounding the high performance four-stroke head. At the races, when a competitor is tearing down his engine, he will often wrap his cylinder head in a towel, away from prying eyes. Many have said that the four-stroke engine's camshaft is the heart of the engine. However that really isn't so. The camshaft is merely the "equal sign," the part that brings all the rest of the engine together. The real heart of the engine is the combustion chamber. Engine performance truly begins there.

Combustion Chamber Shape
The shape of the combustion chamber is more important than many realize. It is far more important than what is done to the ports, or how big your carburetors are. Current combustion chamber technology has resulted in very flat combustion chambers. The reduced volume of this shape results in a shorter flame period, which means ignition timing doesn't have to be advanced as far. (The ignition advance required to get maximum power is in fact an indicator of how well the combustion chamber does its job.) In fact, modern engines run much less ignition timing than older ones do. The result is free power because for whatever number of crankshaft degrees that are saved, the engine is no longer fighting itself, with the piston compressing an already-burning mixture. Remember also that the piston is part of the combustion chamber. With their flat-topped pistons, high compression is possible in modern combustion chambers without detonation. There are no nooks and crannies in which harmful, detonation-producing end-gases can hide, enabling sportbike manufacturers to give these 86-octane-fed engines amazing 12:1 compression ratios. This new age engine's flatter pistons also present to its chambers less surface area and therefore they absorb less of combustion's heat. One of the advantages of the many multi-valve chambers we have today is that with so many valves in the chamber, these valves are more vertical, further allowing very efficient, shallow combustion chamber shapes. Older engine designs with more horizontal valves and necessarily deeper chambers are at a serious handicap, comparitively, and typically cannot run as high a compression and need considerably more ignition advance. One of the best aftermarket cylinder heads for the Harley Evo engine has the valve stems pulled toward each other, relative to stock, for more vertical valves and a shallower, better burning chamber. (Actually, the valve heads are moved apart, not the stems together. Consequently, this head works only on a very large big-bore cylinder.) Aftermarket heads like this one are the most effective items in the Harley performance market. Naturally, stock cylinder heads can't be improved by moving their valves around, but they can be reshaped to give at least some of the same benefit. Then there's squish. Squish, that area of the combustion chamber that serves to push end-gases toward the spark plug, to both eliminate end-gases and generate healthy charge agitation just before the spark, is a very important part of the high performance combustion chamber. So effective is every aspect of squish -- from its total surface area to its angle to its relation to the piston crown -- that racing teams usually guard each season's combustion chamber specs very carefully. Though the combustion chamber is often ignored by many engine builders, the professional has long known its the secret of its power potential.

Camshaft Technology
No part of the four-stroke high performance engine embodies more mystery to the average enthusiast than the camshaft. There is a lot that is taken for granted about this usually very hyped-up component, but it is an interesting and quite simple fact that, just as the engine wants either MEP or rpm to make more power, likewise its valves want to be opened either farther or for a longer period to increase power. However, unlike MEP vs. rpm, both of which make more power, the power resulting from holding the valve open longer or opening it farther is very different in each case. Let's examine this. The idea of fooling with valve timing remember is increased volumetric efficiency. One of the ways the camshaft can contribute to this is by holding the engine's valve open longer. That is, by increasing the valve's open duration. This will potentially give more opportunity to the engine for cylinder filling. But there is a drawback. Exposing the cylinder to the outside for longer periods affects the intake and exhaust tracts by slowing the movement of their contents. The result is less optimum mixture distribution at lower engine speeds, because the fuel separates from the airstream when it is moving too slowly. In addition, extended valve duration cuts into the time the cylinder has to compress its mixture -- the engine has less compression. So while added valve duration usually offers a high rpm power increase, a side-effect is a loss of low rpm power. Another potential benefit of extended valve duration is that it usually increases valve overlap, that period during which both valves are open. As the valve overlap increases, the aforementioned pulse and inertia tuning of the intake and exhaust systems become dramatically more effective. However, again there is a drawback, and that is that the extended valve duration engine depends more heavily on pulse and inertia tuning to run well at all. Though powerful, pulse and inertia tuning is effective for only a very narrow rpm range. An engine cammed this way therefore runs better than stock, but only above s certain rpm, below which it runs much worse. The other way the camshaft can be used to increase cylinder filling, by opening the valve farther instead of holding it open longer, brings a very different effect. Like the valve that is held open longer, the valve that is opened farther allows more air into the cylinder, increasing power. However, since the time that the cylinder is exposed to the outside is not increased, the gases moving in the tract are not slowed, and the charge enters the cylinder still well mixed and combusts nicely. The result is no loss of low rpm power. Furthermore, since valve timing isn't changed, there is no loss of cylinder compression, and the engine isn't made more dependent on pulse and inertia tuning. Why then aren't all camshafts made this way, with an emphasis on lift instead of on duration, especially performance cams? There are three reasons. First, there is valve acceleration. The valve that is opened farther yet taking no more time to do so is one that is opened more quickly, i.e. accelerated harder. Remember that as the valve is accelerated, it tends to "float," and that float is the greatest danger in engines having old-fashioned spindly and flexible valve trains, which until a few years ago meant most of them. Second, because of the engineering world's historic fixation on valve duration, a certain politic of camshaft design has prevailed. It is still a cherished belief in many engineering circles that a valve never needs to be opened farther than 25 percent of its diameter. (Until the late 1980s, few if any production motorcycles deviated from this principle.) This 25 percent figure comes from an interesting geometrical fact. It happens that when the valve is open to a distance equal to 0.25 its diameter, the flow curtain around the valve's periphery is maximized. That is, it's a big as it is ever going to get. This is true as far as it goes, but like the old saying, it doesn't go far enough. There is more to this issue than flow curtain. The interesting thing is, opening a valve to 0.30d and more (racing engines open them to almost 0.50d) results in an interesting bit of trickery as far as time is concerned. For, larger openings actually extend the amount of time the valve is opened, without actually increasing valve open duration and thus adversly affecting tract speed and ultimately combustion. No, that is not a typo. More open time without more duration. Here's how it works. A valve that is open to 0.25d is at that magical full flow point only an infinitessimal period at operating speed. Almost negligibly, really. So the 0.25d flow curtain benefit is largely theoretical. However, when the valve is opened to say 0.35d (as most production sportbikes' valves are today), the valve then, by virtue of being opened past the 0.25d point, has some time to dwell at 0.25d, even though the total open duration is unchanged. Neat, huh? Finally, the third reason not many aftermarket camshafts are designed with lift in mind instead of duration is that such cams are very difficult to market. Its numbers aren't as impressive, for one thing. Plus, this kind of cam takes a lot more care to install properly, care that most engine builders unfortunately just aren't going to take. In fact, this is our next topic of discussion.

Cylinder Head Set-Up
One of the most "secret" of all engine building techniques is proper cylinder head set-up. Many people assume that an aftermarket cam can be purchased from a catalog and put in the engine and away you go. Not so. But this is the perception, and this is why camshaft manufacturers can't sell really well-designed camshafts, but instead offer ones heavy in duration that any fool can install without trouble and get at least dubious results from. Most serious engine builders design their own cams. Check around and you will find that this is so. However, whether the camshaft you use is a custom or one off the shelf, it absolutely must be installed correctly. At the very least, that camshaft must be degreed, but that's another discussion altogether. There are an even dozen valve-related checks that must be made on the engine when installing the aftermarket cam. Following is an outline of those checks. Let's begin by defining some terms that may not be familiar to everyone, but all of which refer to the valve spring.

Spring Free-Length:
Spring free-length means the length of the valve spring uninstalled. This is usually the only specification given by the service manual. Its purpose in the stock engine is merely to identify the correct spring, and more importantly, to enable you to easily spot fatigued springs. However, high performance engine builders use spring free-length to calculate other important spring specifications. So we must start here.

Spring Installed Height:
Installed height means the height of the valve spring once it is installed. In other words, the spring is already partly compressed even before the valve has moved. The purpose of installed height is simply to gauge valve seat pressure. Valve seat pressure is important in any engine, stock or modified.

Spring Full-Open Length:
A spring's full open length is its length when the valve is fully open. This is the spring's shortest working length, and therefore it reflects the hardest that the spring will work. The primary purpose of spring full open length is to help the engine builder determine if there is sufficient spring pressure to control valve float, about which more will be said later.

Spring Coilbind:
When a valve spring is coilbound, it is completely compressed, its coils touching one another -- metal to metal. This should never occur in operation, but we need to know when it could theoretically occur, so as to know how much room we have to stay away from it.

Now let's look at setting up an engine's valves and valve springs for performance cams and pistons. The following twelve valve related checks are performed on most four-stroke engines, though as noted, a few are specific to rocker arm engines, and a few to shim and bucket engines.

Installed Height:
As mentioned earlier, the spring's intalled height is the spring manufacturer's way of ensuring that you get the correct valve seat pressure. The modified engine's increased cylinder pressure requires better sealing. Also, at high rpm there is less time for valve cooling, making good seating even more crucial. Some spring manufacturers use installed height in place of full-open pressure (our next step) to identify their springs and match them to the camshaft, though that is not the correct way. Checking installed height is easy. When the manufacturer's spec is available, simply assemble the valve components without the spring and measure how much room there is for the spring. In most cases, you will have to adjust the components to get the recommended installed height. If there is not enough room for the spring, this may mean sinking the valve deeper into the combustion chamber (the least desirable solution, as it will affect combustion), or machining the cylinder head spring seat area. If there is more than enough room, the spring can simply be shimmed to the correct installed height. If the spring manufacturer's spec is not available, as happens often with high performance parts for Asian engines, the process is a little more complicated. You must add together the spring's coilbind length, the maximum valve lift, and a 0.060" safety margin. The result will be an installed height that assumes you want the maximum seat pressure possible given the cam and springs you have.

Full-Open Pressure:
All performance camshafts, whether duration or lift emphasizing, increase how quickly the valve opens, adding to valve acceleration and making controlling valve float a real problem. Increases in engine rpm that often accompany performance modifications further add to the issue. The spring's full-open pressure is your first line of defense against valve float, and it will often need to be considerably more than stock. There are two ways to determine full-open pressure, and both require a spring tester. You don't really need one of those $1000 units. There are several makes of small hydraulicly-operated spring testers available that you can use in a bench vise. In method A, the length method, you must know the spring's installed height. Simply subtract from this the maximum valve lift, and compress the spring(s) in the spring tester to this length. If using method B, the pressure method, simply compress the spring(s) the amount of the maximum valve lift and note the pressure. Then mathematically add the known seat pressure.

Valve Free Travel:
The valve's free travel, the amount that the valve can travel from closed to when there is guide interference, is very important. It determines retainer-to-guide clearance. Assemble the components without the springs, and measure from the bottom of the retainer to the valve guide seal. For safety, the amount must be 0.060" more than the maximum valve lift.

Coilbind Clearance:
The purpose of checking for coilbind clearance, how close to coilbind the spring comes when operated, is to validate your spring choice. That is, it will reveal either over-shimmed or incorrect rate valve springs. Just repeat the full open test (length method) and then see if you can compress the spring 0.060" more without it coilbinding. If not, it's the wrong spring.

Valve-to-Piston Clearance:
The relationship between the valve and the piston necessarily changes in an engine modified with a different piston or camshaft, or when the cylinder deck clearance or cylinder head surface are modified. In most cases, this relationship must change for maximum performance. That is, to make full use of an engine design, the valve must usually be brought much closer to the piston. This is by the way why so many Asian cars tangle their valves when their cam belt breaks, whereas American cars with similar designs do not. The Asian cars (and virtually all motorcycles) are built with much closer valve-to-piston tolerances, because maximum performance design usually makes better use of this clearance, resulting in less of it remaining. The two traditional methods for checking valve-to-piston clearance are the clay method and the indicator method. Method A (clay) -- If a hydraulic lifter engine, temporarily substitute solid lifters. Then lightly oil the combustion chamber and piston, cover the entire piston crown with a thick layer of clay, and reassemble the engine. Turn the crankshaft through at least two revolutions, and remove the cylinder head. After carefully removing the clay, bisect it and measure the valve-to-piston clearance with a caliper. Method B (indicator) -- Install soft (dirt bike carburetor) springs in place of the valve springs. If a hydraulic lifter engine, temporarily substitute solid lifters. Put a degree wheel on the crankshaft and find true TDC. After rotating the crankshaft to TDC overlap, place a dial indicator on the valve retainer and "zero" the dial. Then push down on the valve and note on the indicator how much the valve moves. Repeat with the crankshaft at 30^o either side of TDC, in 10^o steps. The valve needs to move at least 0.060".

Valve-to-Valve Clearance:
Another potential problem area is valve-to-valve interference. This normally happens only when the camshaft is changed or larger valves are fitted. Two methods again. Method A is similar to Method B above for the valve-to-piston check, except insert a 0.060" piece of solder through the spark plug hole and determine whether the solder can pass between the valves. Method B is a Harley-only method, and requires that the manufacturer supply you with the "TDC lift spec," which is simply the amount the valves are open at TDC overlap. You simply put the valves in the head without springs or other parts, on the bench. Stop collar (using drill stops) the valves to the TDC lift spec, then see if you have at least 0.060" between the valves.

Retainer-to-Rocker Cover:
These next three checks are rocker related checks that are quite common on Harley-Davidsons, though they may be appropriate for other rocker arm engines as well. On Harleys especially, the retainer-to-rocker-cover check is important. When the valve protrusion is increased on Harley Evos, as it often is, the valve spring retainer moves closer to the rocker cover, potentially interfering with it. Or, the cover may be aftermarket, or the heads, as is the case with most clone bikes, giving you the same potential problem. You want to avoid the valve spring retainer touching the rocker cover or any other casting. Assemble the head and rocker cover, and mark with a grease pencil where interference looks likely. Grind some clearance in there if possible. Sounds crude, but it's often necessary and you don't want to overlook it.

Rocker Arm-to-Cover:
On Harleys again, changes to valve protrusion or any of the top end castings may cause the rocker arm to come closer to the rocker cover. Note the potential clearance issues on assembled parts and clearance as necessary. Clay can be used for this as in the valve-to-piston check. Put the clay on the inside of the rocker cover.

Retainer-to-Rocker Arm:
This one is very common on modified Harleys and clones. The rocker arm contacts the valve spring retainer's edge due to larger than stock retainers or high valve protrusion. It can also result from incorrectly adjusted adjustable pushrods. The best Hot-Rod retainers are curved for this reason. Assemble and check.

Rocker Arm Geometry:
Another frequent Harley issue, this is where the rocker arm's movement isn't evenly divided between opening and closing. The result will be excessive valve guide wear. Check to see that the imaginary center of the rocker arm shaft intersects the valve stem at a 90^o angle when the valve is open to half its lift. This will divide the rocker's motion evenly, lengthening the life of the valve and valve guide. This problem is in fact why Harley-Davidson has a valve protrusion spec in the first place, and why shorter than normal replacement valves are widely available.

Valve Follower Travel:
Leaving the Harley stuff now, and back to the import machine. Whenever camming a shim and bucket engine, you must check that the bucket (technically the follower) will in fact move the required distance. In some Asian cylinder heads, the bucket bottoms out in the casting a mere 0.100" or less after the stock valve lift. Failure to check this will result in a considerable amount of damage, including a broken camshaft. To check it, simply assemble the finished head with the bucket, and either dial-indicate or caliper-depth the fully closed bucket position. Then remove the valve and spring, put the bucket back in the head, and after letting it drop to the bottom of its bore, measure its position again. The difference between the two measurements should be 0.060" more than the maximum valve lift.

Shim and Bucket Valve Protrusion:
Another common shim and bucket problem is that of assembling the cylinder head and then finding that even the smallest of the factory's shims won't get the valve clearances to spec. This can even happen on an un-modified head that has had a thorough valve job done on it. Usually, the problem is that the valve protrudes so much that the smallest shim will barely fit, if at all. Even if the smallest shim fits, you will then have no room left for future valve adjustments, which is not acceptable. On the old Z1, whose valves could be ground, the answer was simply to "tip" the valves 0.020~0.030", bringing the valve protrusion back down to factory spec. This enabled the middle size shims to be used for valve adjustment. However, on virtually every other engine, the valves are plated at their tips, so tipping is not possible. In this case, you must use aftermarket non-plated valves (such as stainless steel) and then tip them.

Summary
So now you know three of the best-kept secrets of high performance engine building. To recap, the first is that efficiency is important. Efficiency in at least three forms (volumetric, combustion, and thermal) is what the engine builder is really improving when he or she improves engine performance. The second "secret" says that rpm is half of horsepower. It is not all there is to power, as many assume. Rpm plays an interesting role, to be sure, but not the one most people assume. The third "secret" is that the cylinder head is the heart of the engine, where most of the real work of the engine takes place. It is also the hardest part of the engine to build properly, because it requires the most forethought, and nothing less than fanatical attention to detail. I trust you have found this article interesting and stimulating. If so, I would appreciate some feedback. Want more? Go here for a little more theoretical treatment of this subject.

Article taken from : www.motorcycleproject.com

Mesin Diesel Berbahan Bakar Campuran Bensin dan Solar Janjikan Teknologi Ramah Lingkungan

2012-02-11T11:04:00.000+07:00

Sebuah penelitian telah dilakukan oleh University of Wisconsin di Madison tentang kemungkinan membuat sebuah resep baru bagi mesin diesel dengan mencampurkan solar dan bensin sebagai bahan bakarnya.

Menurut Rolf Reitz, profesor di Teknik Mesin dan sekaligus ketua tim peneliti dari universitas tersebut mengatakan, bahwa pada dasarnya mesin diesel tersebut bekerja dengan menggunakan injeksi solar untuk membantu menyulut bensin di dalam ruang kompresi mesin.

Dalam kondisi beban berat, sebuah truk dengan mesin diesel yang diuji menyerap bahan bakar dengan campuran bensin sebanyak 85% dan 15% solar. Sedangkan dalam kondisi beban ringan, persentase tersebut meningkat menjadi 50%-50%. Dalam kondisi mesin diesel konvensional, campuran bahan bakar tersebut tidak akan terbakar karena bensin menjadi kurang reaktif dan tidak mudah terbakar. Tetapi dengan menerapkan resep yang dibuat oleh Reitz, pencampuran kedua bahan bakar tersebut akan mendapatkan proporsi yang sesuai untuk memudahkan pembakaran.

Dalam presentasinya di Diesel Engine-Efficiency and Emissions Research Conference yang diselenggarakan departemen energi Amerika Serikat, Reitz menjelaskan bahwa resepnya bekerja dengan menerapkan formula yang tepat untuk menghasilkan proses pembakaran, berdasar pada waktu dan banyaknya bahan bakar solar diinjeksikan.

Reitz dan timnya mengembangkan strategi tersebut dengan bantuan komputer canggih untuk melakukan proses simulasi dan modeling. Ada beberapa keuntungan yang didapat dengan menggunakan metode tersebut, antara lain berkurangnya bahan bakar yang terbuang keluar melalui knalpot karena optimalnya campuran yang terjadi, yang berarti juga rendahnya emisi polutan serta meningkatnya efisiensi sebesar 20% karena campuran bahan bakar bisa bekerja pada temperatur rendah.

Jika hasil riset University of Wisconsin tersebut bisa diterapkan pada kebanyakan mesin diesel, maka setidaknya emisi yang dihasilkan kendaraan-kendaraan dan angkutan-angkutan besar yang banyak menggunakan mesin diesel bisa jauh berkurang.[university of Wisconsin]. Diambil dari : www.planethijau.com

Modifikasi Daihatsu Gran Max 2010

2011-01-30T09:44:00.000+07:00

Modif Daihatsu Gran Max 2010, Tak Ragu Meski Meniru

Modif Honda Civic Genio 1993, The (Real) Champion!

2011-01-30T09:43:00.000+07:00

Victory 200 Mission, Tenaga 200 dk Top Speed-nya 200 Mph

2011-01-30T09:40:00.000+07:00

Amerika - Namanya "mission 200", goal-nya mewujudkan sebuah sepeda motor modifikasi berbasis Victory Hammer dengan power 200 dk dan top speed hingga 200 Mph atau sekitar 320 km/jam.

Hal ini benar-benar dilakukan oleh rumah modifikasi Roland Sands Design (RSD) di Amerika Serikat. Mereka berniat mewujudkan sebuah motor modifikasi yang juga sangat bertenaga. Bukan hanya estetika bentuk, tapi juga performa.

Basic motor yang dipilih adalah Victory Hammer berkapasitas mesin 1.700cc dengan tenaga standarnya hanya 100 dk. Victory sendiri mungkin kurang familier ditelinga orang Indonesia.

Victory adalah salah satu pabrikan sepeda motor cruiser atau turing di Amerika Serikat. Namanya memang kurang mendunia layaknya Harley Davidson, namun model-model baru terus dirilis membuatnya tetap eksis hingga saat ini.

Proyek ambisius ini diawali dengan perbaikan desain, aerodinamika dan ergonomi pengendaranya. Sepeda motor turing ini disulap layaknya sportbike berfairing. Tapi ciri khas motor turing yang bagian buntut lebih rendah dari tanki tetap dipertahankan.

Disaat yang bersamaan, RSD menggandeng Lloydz Motor Works untuk mengembangkan mesinnya. Lyodz melakukan balancing dan blueprinted pada kruk as-nya. Mengganti camshaft, bore up dengan piston yang lebih besar.

Klep juga diganti dengan stainless steel dan melakukan porting dan polish di saluran isap kepala silinder. Dan sebagai pamungkasnya, turbocharger Garrett disematkan untuk mendongkrak tenaga.

Lyodz juga memperbaiki sistem pelumasan di kepala silinder. Tentunya agar panas mesin yang berlebih bisa diredam, mengingat powernya hampir meningkat 2 kali lipat! Hasilnya 200 dk dengan kecepatan makasimal 200 mph bisa tercapai! (motorplus.otomotifnet.com)

Sepeda Hybrid Anti Maling, PiCycle Sport Touring!

2011-01-30T09:39:00.000+07:00

Amerika – Anda butuh kendaraan praktis, menyehatkan sekaligus anti maling? PiCycle Sport Touring (ST) bisa jadi jawabannya. Pasalnya sepeda ‘hybrid’ yang di rancang oleh Marcus Hays ini menggabungkan teknologi canggih dengan tradisional secara bersamaan.

Tak percaya? Tengok saja penggeraknya berupa motor listrik 750 Watt / 36 volt bertipe DC yang bersumber tenaga baterai Li-Ion buatan Sanyo gerakan yang terdapat pada tromol depan.

Selain motor listrik, sumber penggerak kendaraan kedua tentu saja tenaga manusia yang dipakai untuk mengayuh PiCycle Sport Touring. Untuk penggerak manual ini dilengkapi dengan gir 8-speed buatan Shimano. Nah, sehat kan?

Hebatnya, PiCycle Sport Touring telah dilengkapi perangkat teknologi wireless bernama PiFi. Lewat software PiMobility perangkat ini dapat memberi data penting, seperti kondisi baterai, frekuensi pengecasan, serta usia baterai pada penggunanya lewat smartphone dan iPod.

Tidak hanya itu, fasilitas built in theft-recovery service sengaja disematkan agar bisa menginformasikan lokasi sepeda melalui smartphone sang pemilik jika sepeda itu dicuri.

Berminat membeli sepeda unik ini? Siapkan saja dan sebesar USD 2.495, atau sekitar Rp 22,5 juta di Amerika. Wah, mahal juga ya! (motorplus.otomotifnet.com)

Panduan Membuat Cover Pelindung Mesin KLX 150

2011-01-30T09:37:00.001+07:00

Desain duk sesuai selera

Jakarta - Kalau ada niatan Kawasaki KLX150 kesayangan buat dipakai adventure atau off-road, tak ada salahnya mempersiapkan besutan lebih matang. Bukan cuma mesin dan kaki-kaki saja lo, yang harus fit. Dek pelindung mesin juga sebaiknya kudu ada.

Karena pastinya ente enggak mau dong, saat melintas medan berat, terutama daerah berbatu, tiba-tiba tanpa disangka ada batu atau benda keras ‘menyerang’ dan menghajar bagian bawah mesin. Bisa-bisa melukai material blok mesin atau bahkan retak.

“Namanya juga adventure, bisa saja menghantam batu atau batang kayu,” tutur Mariasan Kocex dari JP Racing Bintaro. Toh, gak perlu pusing di mana nyari-nya part yang dimaksud. Sebab pelindung mesin tersebut bisa dibuat sendiri bermodal pelat aluminium.

Sebelum membuat, persiapkan terlebih dulu alat-alatnya biar pengerjaan bisa sempurna. Mulai dari karton, spidol, gunting pelat, gerinda tangan, bor listrik dan tentunya kunci-kunci.

Jika sudah lengkap, buatlah desain awal alias mal di atas karton menggunakan spidol. Desainnya bebas terserah selera Anda. Asalkan tujuan utama untuk melindungi bak mesin tercapai. Setelah itu, tempel mal di atas pelat aluminium 3 mm yang akan dipotong dengan gunting.

“Lakukan dengan teliti agar mal tidak meleset,” terang Kocex. Setelah pelat aluminium terpotong, gunakan gerinda tangan untuk menghaluskan pinggiran pelat agar tidak tajam.

Haluskan pinggiran dek dengan gerinda tangan (kiri). Dek nebeng di footpeg (kanan)

Lanjutkan dengan melubangi kuping dek dengan bor listrik agar pelat dek bisa duduk di sasis KLX150. Persisnya menebeng dengan baut dudukan footpeg.

Selebihnya tinggal menyesuaikan kontur pelat dek dengan sasis agar bisa menempel rapi. Sebagai finishing, pelat dek bisa dilubangi dengan mata bor besar berdiameter antara 2-3 cm untuk ventilasi bagi mesin.

Mudah kan? Selamat mencoba ya! (motorplus.otomotifnet.com)

Shogun Axelo Resmi Meluncur Dengan Harga Rp 13 Juta – Rp 15 Juta

2011-01-30T09:36:00.001+07:00

Jakarta - Sukses dengan gelaran media gathering di kota Surabaya beberapa minggu lalu, hari ini (28/01) PT. Suzuki Indomobil Sales (SIS), resmi meluncurkan varian terbaru dari Suzuki Shogun, yaitu Shogun Axelo.

Bertempat di ruang Merica, Hotel Menara Peninsula, proses peluncuran dihadiri oleh para petinggi besar PT SIS dan dilanjutkan dengan acara gathering bareng bintang-bintang Opera Van Java (OVJ), di Central Park, Taman Anggrek.

Motor ber kapasitas 125cc yang berasal dari singkatan Axe-Akselarasi dan Lo-Low Emition ini ,sudah dibekali dengan lampu "switch on", yang berarti jika mesin di nyalakan, secara otomatis lampu utama juga menyala.

Shogun Axelo sendiri di sajikan dalam 3 varian. Antara lain tipe standar (rem belakang tromol), tipe S (rem belakang cakram), dan tipe R (kopling manual). Masing-masing akan dilepas dengan harga 13,8 juta, 14,7 juta dan hingga 15 juta (on the road Jakarta).

"Tahun 2011 pasar akan sangat berkembang, untuk menyokong itu, kami akan dorong dengan penjualan produk-produk baru," buka Goenadi Sindhuwinata, ketua AISI.

Berbarengan dengan ini, PT SIS pun langsung menargetkan angka penjualan hingga 119.000 unit.ditahun 2011 ini. Dan akan mulai dijual di seluruh dealer di Indonesia mulai hari ini. (otosport.otomotifnet.com)

2011 Yamaha FZ8 Review - First Ride An 800-class offshoot from the R1 family tree

2011-01-20T21:19:00.000+07:00

Yamaha’s potent yet manageable FZ8 is enough to make its paternal grandfather, the R1, blush with pride. As the latest beneficiary from Yamaha’s repli-racer genetic stock, the 779cc inline-Four is endowed with some of Yamaha’s most inspired sporting technology which should serve it well in its life as an everyday sporting Standard.
The FZ8’s DNA has roots in Yamaha’s premier sportbike, the YZF-R1. The current FZ1’s engine was derived from the pre-crossplane R1. The new offspring inherits the FZ1’s R1-inspired alloy perimeter frame, its chassis geometry, some engine components, as well as many design elements from its compact and efficient engine.
Since we’ve already covered most of the FZ8’s tech details in our preview article, we’ll focus on why Yamaha thinks this bike is a good idea now, and what it’s like to ride.

Why it’s Here

Yamaha says after extensive market research, it decided to import the previously Euro-only FZ8 to the U.S. and Canada for 2011 to span the chasm between 600cc and 1000cc street-oriented sportbikes – while for now bringing its half-faired Fazer 8 sibling only to the Canadians and Euros.
Since 2005, “sportbikes,” including hypersports, sporty bikes, and sport-tourers, have comprised about 20% of all U.S. motorcycle sales, Yamaha says, second only to cruisers, which account for more than 40%.
In mining demographic data in these recessionary times, Yamaha sees a glint of gold in a trend toward buyers who want one do-it-all sportbike. Some of these buyers will be replacing existing bikes, or trading up from smaller bikes, while at the same time there’s a 9% decline in those seeking an additional bike to add to a stable.
Among 53 buyer preferences Yamaha researched, high on the list were rider positioning, attainable price, large-enough displacement, color and graphics, physical size, ease of touching feet to the ground, light and maneuverable handling, fuel economy, and more.
In short, the mission was to create a versatile and economical bike that comes closer than ever to letting riders with sporting inclinations have their cake and eat it too.
After sampling an FZ8 for nearly 130 miles, in conditions varying from highways to canyons to around town, we would say that this new machine could certainly fit the bill.

How it Works

Depending on whether you’re feeling like a glass-half-full or half-empty kind of person, you could either say the FZ8 feels like a 600 – but with power like a strong 750 – or you could say it’s like a detuned, lighter FZ1.
But while the FZ8’s 12.0:1 compression, fuel-injected engine shares the FZ1’s crankcase, 53.6mm stroke and basic architecture, it is not accurate to call it a sleeved-down version of the 11.5:1 compression FZ1 mill.
To begin with, the FZ8’s four-valve-per cylinder head is all new, as are its shorter lift and duration camshafts, and new intake funnels – 125mm-long for cylinders 1 and 4, and 150mm-long for cylinders 2 and 3 – that help broaden its powerband.
Coupled with its 35mm throttle body – 10mm narrower than the FZ1’s – these features enhance torque while still allowing for a respectable top-end rush.
Yamaha doesn’t make power claims, but the FZ8’s 11,500-max-rpm mill reportedly peaks at around 105 hp, and 61 ft-lb torque when measured at the crankshaft.

Disadur dari http://motorcycle.com