Mountain Biking by 198

Video: Chunky – Raccoon Mountain – Niner W.F.O 9

198 — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 12:23:22 +0000

A group of us headed up to Chattanooga, TN last weekend to get in some dry singletrack…finally! It has been doing nothing but raining in the southeast United States lately, so we grab any mountain biking time we can get. As you can see by the video, last weekend was what inspired the “How to ride in leaf covered conditions” article I posted earlier this week. You could hardly even see the trail! This added a little bit of tech into the ride but it also flattened out the terrain in the video even more than video footage normally does.

The Chunky trail at Raccoon Mountain is a light FR area with moderate rock drops and some slow tech bouldering. Great area to build up your more technical riding skills.

The following video was shot with the VholdR ContourHD mounted on my head on the Niner W.F.O. 9 review bike.

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Mountain Biking – Feeling Vs. Mechanics – How Do Your Ride?

198 — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:07:40 +0000

Over the course of my mountain biking, I have seen two different kinds of riders hit the trail. The rider that thinks his way through riding and the rider who feels his way through riding. For some mountain bikers, it is a combination of the two as you hit the trail searching for the feeling of immortality when you rip through a section of singletrack with pure perfection.

What is a feeling rider?

A rider that feels the ride does not think about where his (or her) weight needs to be, where the bike needs to go or what he needs to do next to squeeze out that last little bit of speed. This rider just seems to know how to move the bike and his body in perfect harmony with the trail. A lot of people like to refer to this as natural talent…I like to think of it as the rider is feeling where the bike needs to be and what needs to be accomplished.

Often times, this rider completely pisses off the mechanics rider. For some odd reason, they just get it without too much thought. That obstacle or quest for flow just comes naturally and the motion between rider and bike is almost poetic. The feeling of the bike almost embodies who they are. It is part of the makeup of who that rider is as a person and that perfect harmony just seems to click…on almost ever ride.

Does this mean a feeling rider is perfect? Absolutely not. They might not even be the fastest rider on the trail that day, but they still do not have to mentally calculate every move with each pedal stroke. Their partnership with the mountain bike is based off of how things feel at that moment and not a calculated decision.

What is a mechanics rider?

Unlike the feeling rider, the mechanics rider is all about calculated decisions. Each step of the mountain biking process is a task that – when completed correctly – equals speed and flow. This mountain biker studies perfection and with every ride tries to get one step closer to their ideal skill level by methodically figuring out where the bike and rider need to be to get the job accomplished.

This rider does not feel the bike like the feeling rider. It might even take the mechanics rider a little bit longer to tackle an obstacle or find the flow, but the persistence and quest for perfection brings the speed with time. As a mechanics rider rides their mountain bike, you can almost see them thinking their way through the ride. Move my weight here…get the bike pointed there…pedal…weight back. This thought process brings the mountain bike and the rider together as they navigate the trail.

Who is faster? Mechanics or Feeling?

The answer…neither. I have seen riders with different approaches at all skill levels and speed. Most times, the feeling rider will pick up things a little bit faster on the trail because it just seems to work. However, the persistence of the mechanics rider to get it right sometimes outweighs the natural ability of the feeling rider.

Some of the fastest riders I have ever seen are mountain bikers that have a combination of both feeling and mechanics. Have you ever seen one of those feeling riders constantly session one section of trail? That is because something did not feel right, so they are now practicing the mechanics of that section until it does. Ever see a mechanics rider just clear his head and hit something dead on? That mechanics rider is trying to get his mind out of the ride and rely on instincts and feeling to get over the over-thinking.

As you ride your mountain bike, try to keep a balance of feeling out your ride and thinking your way through the day. By incorporating both aspects of riding, you are able to become a better mountain biker and exercise that section of feeling or mechanics that you do not use as often.

Are you a feeling or mechanics rider?

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Riding Tip: Fall Riding – Negotiating the Leaves – MTB Ice Skating

198 — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 12:27:50 +0000

Depending on where you mountain bike, the fall period can be an interesting riding time. For those of us in the southeast United States, it is a riding season of negotiating all of the leaves that have fallen from our lush trees and onto our singletrack. For those of you in the desert…you do not have this worry…but anyone around a massive amount of trees knows…this time of year is like riding on ice skates! You can’t see the trail, so negotiating obstacles is a combination of trail knowledge and 99% guess work. Couple that with the slide out effect of the leaf ground cover and you are left with treacherous riding conditions.

How To Ride Leaf Covered Trails & Keep Rubber Side Down

So how do we ride our mountain bikes in the ice skating conditions of fall in tree covered singletrack? The following tips will help you keep the rubber side up as you blast your mountain bike down that next section of singletrack bliss.

Keep Your Legs and Arms Bent – You are going to hit unexpected rocks, roots and other objects that want to throw you off your line simply because you can not see them. By keeping your legs and arms bent, you can soak up these unexpected events much easier than if you are all stiffened up on the bike. The idea is to keep all of your motion fluid and work with the changing conditions under your tires. The more fluid your motions…the smoother the ride will be. You will be surprised…little rocks and roots that would be nothing on a normal day will flip the bike up in a split second because you were not ready for it.
Keep A Loose Grip On The Bars – This really goes hand in hand with the tip above, but by keeping a loose grip on the bar…you keep your arms unclenched and ready for changing conditions. This is actually a tip you should take with you during every mountain bike ride. Keeping a loose grip on the handle bar also insures that you do not waste valuable energy on an activity that actually takes away from your riding ability. You exert a lot of fuel white knuckling down the trail.
Lean The Bike…Not Your Body – By leaning the bike independently of your body, you are able to keep your weight centered for optimal traction. This is not a motorcycle where you have a motor to pull you through the turn at mach 5. You require pedal power to get yourself going again and you need to have your body ready to drop the hammer, but still provide grip through the turns. Again, legs and arms bent and search out that line that has traction. If other riders have already been on the trail, you might get lucky and find dirt within the turns.
Use The Rear Wheel To Guide You – In the leaves, you are not going to have the added benefit of a massive amount of front wheel traction when you really dig into corners. In conditions that are overly slippery (like a large amount of leaf cover), I use the rear end of the bike through controlled braking and skidding to turn the bike in the direction I want it to go. If you are going to rely on that front tire to pull you through…get ready to eat dirt.
Keep The Bike Straight In “Oh S%$t” Situations – There is no turning to bail out of mistakes. Your best bet is to ride through it as best you can…straight…and then slow down. If you try to make abrupt changes in direction in the leaves…be ready to hit the ground. Even if it means riding off the trail (none of you ever do that right?!)…

I actually enjoy riding in the leaves. It adds another unexpected technical aspect that you have to adjust for and – in the end – it makes you a better overall mountain biker. When the leaves hit the ground in the fall, it even makes my local mountain bike trails exciting again. I hear a lot of complaining about them…but I like the added challenge.

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Review: Hadley Racing Mountain Bike Hubs – MTB Wheels

198 — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:27:57 +0000

Over the past year, I have been doing a long term test on the Hadley Racing hubs. This review took a long time on purpose (even received emails from you guys asking how it was going). I wanted to get the chance to try this built wheelset on numerous bikes in as many conditions as I possibly could. Over the course of the past year, the Hadley/Notubes.com wheelset has become my go-to set and I am about to tell you why.

Test Bikes:

Rocky Mountain Slayer SXC 70 (20mm Fox Talas 36)
Turner 5.Spot (20mm RockShox Lyrik; 15mm Fox Talas 140)
Kona Coilair Supreme (20mm Fox Talas 36 RLC)
Ventana El Terremoto 6.0 (20mm RockShox Lyrik)

Test Trails:

Local XC Trails of North Georgia
Pisgah National Forest, North Carolina
Local FR Spots in North Georgia
Bent Creek, Asheville, North Carolina
Raccoon Mtn, Chattanooga, TN

The Wheel Build:

NoTubes.com – Stans ZTR Flow Rims (setup tubed and tubeless)
Build Completed by Kovachi Wheels
Total Weight – 1920g total (860g front and 1060g rear) (w/20mm end caps installed)
Hub Setup: 10mm TA Rear (Hadley 10mm Axle); 20mm Front; 15mm Front

Install, Maintenance and General Use On the Hadley Hubs

Hadley Axle Parts - 20mm End Caps/15mm Axle

The front hub on the Hadley Racing setup is convertible to accommodate the different axle sizes available on the market today. The review hubs came spec’ed with the 20mm TA end caps and 15mm TA screw in axle. Each of the setups only take about a minute to switch out and the process is stupid easy. I really like the 15mm TA screw together solid axle as it provides a solid foundation for mounting the front wheel. The 20mm TA end caps just set in the hub relying on the rubber rings to keep them put while you install your front wheel. While these did a great job in the beginning, after multiple uses…the rubber starts to become loose and the caps have a harder time staying in while mounting. Ideally, I’d like to see a screw together axle even if that means adding a little bit more weight.

Maintenance recommendations are pretty simple. Check the bearing preload periodically by tightening the lock rings and everything seems to go together with 21mm wrenches. For the rear hub disassembly process, you are going to need a 21mm wrench and a standard Park Tool SPA-2 Spanner. With a little Teflon grease on the seals, you are good to go ride. Honestly, I didn’t touch mine (other than to disassemble for pictures and axle swap-outs) during the entire review period as there was no reason to…they just worked.

For the purposes of this review, I spec’ed in the 10mm TA rear axle for increased stiffness at very little weight penalty. The Hadley 10mm TA rear axle is the easiest to use in the business because they machined the nut to fit into the dropouts. That makes tightening the axle down a one tool/one hand operation. It is almost as easy as a quick release and you don’t need to carry any extra tools on the trail (standard multi-tool does the trick).

Hadley Racing Hubs – The Mechanics

Hadley Pawl Drive

The Hadley Racing hubs use a 72 point, 4 pawl engagement system. The actual drive mechanism looks a lot like what you find in the Hope Pro II’s and Ellsworth wheels I reviewed previously, but with a lot more engagement points. 72 point engagement gets you 5 degrees of play which is fantastic for technical riding and overall pedaling efficiency. Each engagement point is controlled by 2 spring loaded pawls. In the past, this has made for a very loud hub, but this set of Hadley’s was no louder than a Chris King while freewheeling. That was surprising as I am used to the Hadley’s being one of the loudest on the trail.

As mentioned previously, this entire drive mechanism is easily serviced with a couple of tools, so with proper maintenance…they will last for a long time. After pulling apart this set, I saw very little wear and no sign of them giving up any time soon.

On The Bike and On the Trail with the Hadley’s

Hadley Rear Hub with 10mm Axle

The first thing that really surprised me with the Hadley hub set was how well these hubs freewheeled. As you can see with the video below, it is almost like you can flick these hubs and they will never stop rolling on their own. There is very little drag on both the front and rear hub which is a testament to the quality of materials and bearings Hadley uses in their builds. This stayed consistent from day one until this review was written.

The red ano on this review set is gorgeous. Being a little bit deeper red, it matched perfectly on my black and gray bikes and the ano job showed no flaws or discoloring. Both hubs matched perfectly and provided a great contrast on the bike.

John Kovachi handled the wheel build on the NoTubes.com Stans Flow rims. The stiffness of the build was spot on and the Flow rims provide a great, wide platform for larger tires at a weight that is respectable for numerous ride conditions. Basically, combined with the engagement and reliability of hubs…this is an incredible set to take just about anywhere.

While riding the Hadley’s, the buzzing coming from the rear hub is about as loud as you would expect from a Chris King with a little bit deeper sound. Just loud enough to know the engagement is back there but not so loud that you can hear the dirt ripping against the tires. Being a technical rider, I am a sucker for fast engagement hub drives and the 72 point of the Hadley really delivers in double clutch, slow tech situations. There is very little delay between moving your legs and power getting to the ground. Slower engagement hubs have a distinct gap during this process and the Hadleys delivered the power when you need it.

During flat and rolling sections, you can almost feel the freewheeling capabilities of this hubset. There is literally zero drag as you let gravity and the bike do its thing. With some larger engagement hubs, there is a break-in period where drag can become an issue and the Hadley’s just worked from day one.

The 10mm TA rear axle platform provided a stiffer platform than a traditional quick release which allowed for a more secure attachment and let the rear end of the bikes track better. Combined with the ease of use and minimal weight penalty of the Hadley 10mm, I actually ended up converting all of my hubs to accept that axle. It has too many benefits on the trail not to. As you can see by the pictures in the gallery below, there was very little scarring or wear on the freehub body even after multiple cassettes and harsh riding conditions. Even after all of the abuse, the cassette slides on and off easily.

Overall Thoughts On The Hadley Racing Hubs

As you can see, I have become a huge fan of Hadley Racing over the course of this review. The 72 point engagement pawl drive is dead on every time with literally zero drag and the buzzing of the rear hub is loud enough to hear but not so loud that it takes away from the ride. The flanges on the Hadley’s provide a solid foundation for a stiff wheel build which makes them capable for everything from cross country riding to downhill. The convertible front hub allows fork swaps and transferring from bike to bike a breeze, but I would like to see a more secure way to handle the 20mm TA duties.

If I had one other complaint other than the 20mm TA end caps, it would be distribution. Without a website or any serious marketing behind these hubs, they can be hard to find information on to make service and buying decisions. The crew over at Hadley really needs to ramp up the promotion aspect of their product so more riders can enjoy the high quality manufacturing of their hubs.

What I Liked About The Hadley Racing Hubs

Best 10mm TA in the Business
Easily Convertible Front Hub
Almost Zero Drag
72 Point Engagement
High Build Quality
Durable Enough To Use In Most Riding Conditions
Easy To Maintenance
Incredible Value

What Could Use Some Work On The Hadleys

20mm TA End Caps Need To Have A More Secure Attachment
Better Distribution and Marketing

If you are looking for a solid hubset that can be used in a variety of riding conditions, these may be what you are looking for. I need a hubset that will perform in everything from occasional xc races to several foot drops and…to this point…these hubs have been able to deliver in all situations. They don’t have the brand recognition of a Chris King or the crazy engagement/colors of an Industry Nine, but – at the end of the day - they work every time and provide enough engagement to keep this tech rider smiling.

BUY HADLEY DISC HUBS

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How To Shoot Mountain Biking Pictures – MTB Photography – Part 2

Guest Post — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 12:42:50 +0000

This is the second article in a series of guest posts by Keith Pytlinski. Keith has shot for numerous bike magazines and professional publications…so needless to say…this guy REALLY knows what he is talking about. Mountain biking photography is a hobby of mine and a lot of the riders I ride with…so I found this invaluable information a must post. You can check out more of Keith’s work over at M5 Photography.

Before we get into any of the technical details of photography, there are a few things that I left out of Part 1 that I want to cover. A major concern for many camera owners is how to transport their camera. I’m going to share the things that work best for me. If you already have a method of transport that works well, then stick with it. Starting with my smaller Canon point and shoot camera, I place it and a second battery (more on this in the next section) in a simple small case and drop it into one of the front pockets in my Camelbak. I’ve seen others attach smaller cameras to the outside of their pack near the shoulder or run a system that attaches it to their waist. For me I like the peace of mind knowing that my camera is in what I see as a safer place stashed in my pack. Yes, it takes me more time to access my camera, but again, it feels a bit more protected on my back.

There seems to be even more concern with people who shoot with SLRs. Hopefully, knowing there are others bringing their SLR on rides will ease some of that worry. When I carry my SLR, I use the same method of placing it in my Camelbak, but instead of a camera case I use a R.A.P by Skooba. The RAP product allows some shock protection, some water resistance and is less bulky than an SLR case would be. I’ve been using this method for a number of years and have yet to have any issues. Again, you’ll find what works best for you; these are some transport options that have worked for me over the years. The bottom line here is that you shouldn’t be afraid to take your camera with you.

I mentioned above that I bring a second battery with me on my rides. I think this is an often overlooked topic and can make or break your day of shooting. Many of us forget to charge our main battery the night before, and a second battery can save your butt when that primary runs out or you forgot to charge it. SLR batteries are on the pricey side; I’d like to suggest you visit http://sterlingtek.com/. Their batteries are substantially cheaper than the brand name, and I’ve yet to have any issues with the quality.

Oh look, a free camera! This is probably what someone said when I left one of my first digital cameras on a trail in Mammoth Mountain a few years ago. There was no way the person who found it would have known it was mine. This was a life lesson and one that I try to share with anyone doing photography. The solution I’ve found to work best is labeling my equipment with the following:

Reward if returned
Keith@m5photography.com
My phone number

I used to use the return address labels that you use to mail envelopes on my gear, but I found they didn’t last long. I have since discovered ID My Stuff from the folks at Maverick Label. The ID My Stuff labels come in four different sizes and they seem to have a size that fits all my equipment. I use these on my camera bodies, lenses and flash units. Of course there is no guarantee that the person who finds your gear will call or email you, but at least you’ve got that information on there.

Canon DSLR Lens Label

In Part 1, I suggested bringing your camera even when riding solo, but I didn’t offer up any suggestions on how to shoot when alone. First let me say that we can only look at so many shots of your bike on the ground or leaning on a fence. We want to see a rider in that shot! A great way I’ve found to shoot alone is by bringing along a tiny tri-pod. The Ultrapod II is one that I’ve used for years and I love its features. It’s small, lightweight, folds up nicely and takes little room to store. It is also strong enough to hold up your SLR and a small lens. These shots will take some practice, but with some effort on your part you can get great results. Find that great background, set your camera on your mini tripod, set the self timer, and dash back to your bike for the shot. Typically the self timer will have two options for time. Play with this feature and of course choose the longer timer.

Well I’m hoping since you read through Part 1 that you went out and tried some new angles with your camera and challenged yourself with getting something different. I promised to get into the more technical side of using your camera, and for this we are going to go on an internet field trip. The main goal is to get you comfortable making changes to your camera’s settings and get you out of the habit of shooting in full auto all of the time. Darren Rowse over at Digital Photography School (DPS) has already done an outstanding job covering shutter speed, aperture and ISO. I’d suggest taking your time in reading these, seeing where these settings are on your camera and even making a small cheat sheet you can bring with you on rides. So head on over to DPS. You can use that information to see which settings I used on the pictures below and why.

Shutter Speed: http://digital-photography-school.com/shutter-speed
Aperture: http://digital-photography-school.com/aperture
ISO: http://digital-photography-school.com/iso-settings

I understand the effort it took Darren to complete those articles; a huge thank you goes out to him and DPS.

Now that the tech side has been covered, let’s look at some real world examples in mountain biking photography. In the photo examples below I will explain the shot I wanted and how I got there.

Keep in mind that this is only a tiny example of the types of shots you can get while riding and shooting.

Photo01 - Mountain Biking Photography

Photo1 above was taken with my small Canon point and shoot camera. I read some feedback from my first post about a SLR being a must, I don’t agree with that statement as I’ve captured many of my favorite shots using my point and shoot. For this shot my first challenge was finding the angle that I thought would be different. I typically will take a look without the camera and envision the shot in my head, then take a look through the view finder or LCD. I wanted to shoot something low as the stairs were the main feature here. I knew if I used too fast a shutter speed that it might look like the rider was simply balancing on the stairs, so I slowed the shutter speed down enough to allow for some motion blur.

The second challenge in this shot was having enough light. You may be able to tell that this was shot beneath a tree. The fact I was using a slower shutter speed did help in this case. Increasing the ISO here would also have allowed me to get the light that was needed for this shot. Some will say using the flash would be another option here. I agree but the flash on the smaller point and shoot cameras can be a bit harsh and hard to control. Again you will find there isn’t one single correct way to get your shot and I think that is one of the cool things about photography.