Krister Jonsson / IFMGA Mountainguide

Dent de Tsalion West Ridge

2026-07-29T12:08:56.926+02:00

Dent de Tsalion: West Ridge

A great classic mountain route in a remote and quiet area of Arolla. A small ski resort suited just below 2000mts

The Tsa hut is a very beautiful small secret with a low number of people. And the nice gardienne, Diana, makes the place even nicer with an approach sympatique and good food.

Dent de Tsalion

Approach

From the Tsa Hut (alt. 2607 m), follow the black pipe uphill through boulder fields (3–4 red marks at the start, then numerous cairns), then follow the moraine to the foot of the West Ridge, which is clearly visible from the hut (alt. 2950 m, 1 hour).

Route

Climb up the obvious chimney at the start of the ridge (grade III+) to reach a notch visible from the hut. From there:

- It is more elegant to continue along the ridge: a section at grade IV (3 bolts), then further on, the crux at grade V (2 closely spaced bolts), though one can easily pull on the bolt (aid move).

- Alternatively, take a series of ascending ledges to the right to reach a secondary ridge on the right, following it until it joins the main ridge. Bypass the massive step of yellowish rock on the right. Then follow the ridge crest, occasionally veering right or left to avoid the most exposed sections.

In the final third, there are a few unavoidable sections (grade IV) on the exposed ridge crest; the rock is very solid and compact but difficult to protect, save for a few strategically placed bolts.

The ridge ends against a step directly below the summit; head right to a notch in the brown rock just north of the summit pinnacle. The pinnacle itself is easily climbed (10 m) via a SE-facing crack (grade III); there is a quick-link on a cord sling at the top. (4–5 hours of climbing; 5–6 hours from the hut)

Descent

* Either (if returning via the Tsa hut) descend the North Ridge (grade II) to Pointe de Tsalion (alt. 3,512m – 1 hour). Then, a long descent from Pointe de Tsalion (red markers and cairns). After the first quarter, the path veers sharply right towards Pointe des Genevois (crossing several gullies); look for cairns/markers in this direction if the path becomes hard to follow (1.5–2 hours). Bring an ice axe and crampons early in the season to cross a few exposed snow patches.

* Or descend towards the SSE to reach Col de la Tsa (alt. 3,309m); a 50m rappel (using a cord sling threaded through a natural rock arch/thread) in the center of the col can allow for a safe crossing of the bergschrund. Then descend the Berthol Glacier. It is also possible to reach the Bertol Hut: at Col de la Tsa, head ESE to pass west of point 3,373 (chain); from there, make a descending snow traverse to the SW to reach the hut.

Notes

* A major climb in a truly alpine setting. Straightforward route.

* If descending via Bertol, do not underestimate the time required.

* This climb is often combined with the ascent of Aiguille de la Tsa (alt. 3,668m; 1.5 hours from Dent de Tsalion).

* The descent towards Pointe de Tsalion involves quite a bit of loose rock over the first 150 meters. However, the rest of the route is not exposed. * Be careful not to follow the bolts at the start of the ridge if you want to avoid the grade V move.

* Bivouac spots: Around 2560m, 150m south of the Cabane de la Tsa, right next to the trail. Running water and grass; space for one or two tents. Around 2750m, on the flat area above the moraine blocks (reached by following the markers toward the base of the Dent de Tsalion). Running water and grass/sand.

Gear

* A few slings

* 50m rope if linking with La Tsa; otherwise, 30m is sufficient

* A few cams/nuts, 4 quickdraws

* Ice axe and crampons if descending via Bertol, or early in the season via the Pointe de Tsalion

Cabane de la Tsa

Dent de Tsalion : Arête W

Approche

De la cabane de la Tsa (alt. 2607)

Depuis la cabane de la Tsa (alt. 2607 m), suivre la conduite noire vers le haut à travers des zones de blocs (3-4 marques rouges au départ, puis de nombreux cairns), puis suivre la moraine jusqu'au pied de l'arête Ouest, bien visible depuis la cabane (alt. 2950 m, 1 heure).

Itinéraire

Gravir la cheminée évidente au départ de l'arête (cotation III+) pour atteindre une brèche visible depuis la cabane. De là :

- Il est plus élégant de poursuivre le long de l'arête : un passage en IV (3 spits), puis plus loin, le crux en V (2 spits rapprochés), bien qu'il soit facile de se tirer sur le spit (passage en artif).

- Alternativement, emprunter une série de vires ascendantes vers la droite pour rejoindre une arête secondaire à droite, et la suivre jusqu'à sa jonction avec l'arête principale. Contourner par la droite le ressaut massif en rocher jaunâtre. Suivre ensuite le fil de l'arête, en faisant quelques écarts à droite ou à gauche pour éviter les sections les plus exposées.

Dans le dernier tiers, on rencontre quelques passages obligatoires (cotation IV) sur le fil exposé de l'arête ; le rocher est très sain et compact mais difficile à protéger, hormis quelques spits stratégiquement placés.

L'arête bute contre un ressaut situé juste sous le sommet ; se diriger à droite vers une brèche dans le rocher brun, juste au nord du gendarme sommital. Ce dernier se gravit aisément (10 m) par une fissure orientée SE (cotation III) ; un maillon rapide sur anneau de corde équipe le sommet. (4-5 heures d'escalade ; 5-6 heures depuis la cabane)

Descente

* Soit (pour un retour à la cabane de la Tsa) descendre l'arête Nord (cotation II) jusqu'à la Pointe de Tsalion (alt. 3512 m – 1 heure). Ensuite, longue descente depuis la Pointe de Tsalion (marques rouges et cairns). Après le premier quart, le sentier bifurque franchement à droite vers la Pointe des Genevois (traversée de plusieurs couloirs) ; repérer les cairns/marques dans cette direction si le sentier devient difficile à suivre (1h30 à 2 heures). Emportez piolet et crampons en début de saison pour traverser quelques névés exposés.

* Ou bien descendez vers le SSE pour rejoindre le col de la Tsa (alt. 3 309 m) ; un rappel de 50 m (sur sangle passée dans une lunule naturelle) au centre du col permet de franchir la rimaye en sécurité. Descendez ensuite le glacier de Bertol. Il est également possible de rejoindre la cabane de Bertol : au col de la Tsa, dirigez-vous vers l'ESE pour passer à l'ouest du point coté 3 373 (chaîne) ; de là, effectuez une traversée descendante à flanc de neige vers le SW pour atteindre la cabane.

Remarques

* Une course majeure dans un cadre véritablement alpin. Itinéraire évident.

* En cas de descente par Bertol, ne sous-estimez pas le temps nécessaire.

* Cette course est souvent combinée avec l'ascension de l'aiguille de la Tsa (alt. 3 668 m ; 1 h 30 depuis la Dent de Tsalion).

* La descente vers la pointe de Tsalion présente pas mal de rochers instables sur les 150 premiers mètres. Le reste de l'itinéraire n'est cependant pas exposé. * Attention à ne pas suivre les spits au début de l'arête si vous voulez éviter le passage en cotation V.

* Emplacements de bivouac : Vers 2 560 m, 150 m au sud de la cabane de la Tsa, juste à côté du sentier. Eau courante et herbe ; emplacement pour une ou deux tentes. Vers 2 750 m, sur la zone plate au-dessus des blocs de moraine (accessible en suivant le balisage vers la base de la Dent de Tsalion). Eau courante et herbe/sable.

Matériel

* Quelques sangles

* Corde de 50 m si l'on enchaîne avec la Tsa ; sinon, 30 m suffisent

* Quelques coinceurs (friends/câblés), 4 dégaines

* Piolet et crampons si descente par Bertol, ou en début de saison par la pointe de Tsalion

Les Tropiques - Maladiere

2025-11-16T16:57:00.004+01:00

Maladiere in the Valléé de l'Arve

A superb crag thanks to its airy climbing on numerous long routes on generally excellent, well-featured, and grippy limestone. The atmosphere is heightened by the rappel access, which is particularly steep if you approach from Les Tropiques. Sun shines from mid-morning (earlier on Divine Comedy and Cassonade, later to the right of Vade Retro Satanas) until late in the day, even in winter. The cliff dries quickly, except for a few rare seepages, and some routes dry very quickly after rain: Cassonade exit via Gillopettro, Indiana Jaune, Le Temple du Soleil, Cobra-Cabana, Noli Me Tangere, also Vade Retro and No Angel with sun on the first pitch.

There is a possible "rescue" route to ascend in case of a failed attempt on Eclipse at Noli Me Tangere: reach the large cave of Dante's Inferno, descend directly below it, then to the right, and ascend below the Petite Maladière (beware: steep grassy slopes)

The rock wall is one of the best in the valley for multi pitch sport climbing considering the easy approach. My favorit routes are Indiana Jaune, Vade Retro and Les Tropiques, which now is re-equipped with a fixed stainless steel bolts in 2018. Pitch 3 is a bit trilled bolted, easy to miss the 4th to 5th bolt. It's a no fall zone sort of...

Approach for Les Tropiques

les Tropiques

Take D6, the parking is on the left just after passing la Frasse village. Follow the trail uphill towards "Pointe de Chevran". At the first fork, take the left-hand trail towards "Saint-Jean". Always stay on the uphill trail. After about 20 minutes, you'll reach a fork where the trail is almost level. Continue to the left. At the next fork, take the left-hand trail (yellow arrow painted on a tree)

The path climbs a little further and then descends. Look for a wood sign with Tropiques on it The rappels are located on a ledge very close to the trail, some 15m

Heads up for the second rappel which really need no less than 50m ropes! Otherwise the rappels are straight and easy pull on the ropes and you end up at the very start of Tropiques

(30 minutes approach +/-)

Route
L1 6a+ 35m Pitch ascending left, typical slab with a small crimp in the first part. Some fragile rock in the small roof.

L2 5a 30m Pitch traversing left, passing a bulge that is easier to the left of the bolts. Finish on the ledge, watch out for loose rock.

L3 6a+ 40m Superb pitch, climb the obvious dihedral then traverse under a roof to the left to reach the crack.

L4 4b A short pitch of 15m, traverse right a little, obvious sort of. Belay at some small trees.

L5 A0 / 6a or 7c free. 15m First part traverses left to a good ledge, then joins the A0 section which is easily passed on 5 bolts, after the last bolt a slab move with good handholds to reach the belay above the tree.

L6 6a+ 30m Pitch ascending left with a nice crack section.

L7 6b 35m Beautiful pitch, still ascending, with several delicate moves and an awkward rest, finishing in grass to reach the ledge.

L8 2 10m Traverse right on the ledge to reach the last pitch of "L'Écho des Savanes" (Echo of the Savannahs). The original 5a finish is abandoned.
L9 5c+ 25m Average rock in the second part; be sure to move right after the bolt in the wall. A small slab above leads to the top.

Equipment

2x50m ropes, 14 QD's, some extra slings for the belays

Route history

Michel Piola & Pascal Strappazzon in 1991

Re-equipped with a fixed stainless steel bolt by Michel Piola in 2018 with route modifications

Arrow showing the rappel

The rappel anchor

Pilier Brand - Solalex

2025-08-19T14:55:00.000+02:00

Here you can find 2 quite remote and beautiful routes on a wild pillar of the South of the les Diablerets

The approach is possible from both Sion and Derborence 1464m and via Martigny, Gryon and Solalex

le Pilier to the right
Red line Tchieu c't'équipe

From Solalex traverse the Anzeinde plateau and continue towards the Pas de Creville. A little before the col head up the scree slopes to the left towards the lowest point of the pillar on the 2464 side. The routes begins on the middle of the spur, to the left of the big dihedral. The 1st spits on both routes are quite high. To the right of the spur begins the classique "Pilier Brand"starts to the right.

The routes are true opposites regarding protection.

The new route Tchieu c't'équipe is well bolted and the classique Pilier would need a good number of cams and nuts, this one has a few bolts where needed and to show the way sort of.

I can tell it was very interesting and engaging to lead with only the bolts in place as protection...

Pilier Brand Pitch 4

Iconic run outs!!

Route description

Pilier Brand - voie classique

Engaging climbing that can be found difficult to protect well. Expect some run outs but always good belays!

L1 5b First bolt is quite high, can be difficult to see. Upwards, left / right to a good ledge.

L2 6a+ 45m Up some delicate slabs to a piton, then up the corner system with an other serie of bolts high up.

L3 6a+ Straight up some loose looking corner, stay to the right on the slabs, up to a steep section ( well protected) to a belay out to the left

L4 Good start up some beautiful slabs then a corner/layback system up to the base of a big ledge system with a lot of loose rock

Move the belay over the ledges to the single bolt

L5 Up the crack system, some loos rock

L6 More slabs

L7 Slabs to the summit

Rappel down the same line

Equipment

2x50m Rope

8-10 QD's

Good selection of cams to BD 4

a set of mid size nuts

Anna enjoying life on "Pilier Brand"

Forcing the chimney P7 of Tchieu c't'équipe

Tchieu c't'équipe

Modern climbing, well protected

L1 6a 45 m Take the left side of a large dihedral which deviates to the left. Then cross to the right by an easy ledge between roofs to reach the belay on the spur.

L2 6A+ 40 m A little right up grooves then on the left (slabs) to the belay. In the middle of the pitch, a spit line leaves to the right to reach the path of the Brand pillar.

L3 6A 30 m Short beautiful pitch up cannelures. Belay on a ledge.

L4 6A 30 m Short pitch rightwards, belay at a small ledge below the big roofs.

L5 6b+ or 6A/A0 45 m First fairly easy on some slabs the left and then crossing right to a small arête.

A few meters up then rightwards over the roof to arrive at the belay (A0 possible).

L6 6A 45 m Interesting and solid climbing, again well protected. 14 bolts

L7 6B 45 m grooves at the start then big crack before an extraordinary outing in opposition in a large air chimney. Optional belay to the right on the sortie of the chimney (allows you to see the second climber), Descend from here or from the descent belay on the other side, on lookers left of the chimney.

Equipment

2x50m rope

14 QD's

P6 of Tchieu c't'équipe

Take care about the cows...

2024-08-06T16:17:00.001+02:00

Weissmeiss Arete Nord

Approach

* From the Bergrestaurant Hohsaas (3140 m), follow the marked path that climbs towards the E along the Geissrücken. Around 3200 m the path ends; advancing as best you can in the scree (tracks, cairns), go around the upper part of the Geissrücken on the right (S slope). Set foot on the glacier around 3300 m and, via a slightly marked pass, reach the Hohlaubgletscher. Cross the rocky slope from p.3572m (cairn, not very visible at night) and, via an ascending traverse towards the NE, reach the Lagginjoch (3499 m, last meters on unstable rock). Approx. 1 hour.

* From the Weissmieshütte (2726 m), follow the path that leads to Hohsaas up to around 3000 m. From there, climb in an E direction in the scree (tracks) until reaching the Holaubgletscher, which you climb as best you can (crevasses) to the Lagginjoch (3499 m, last meters on unstable rock). 2h

N Ridge 3-5h

From Lagginjoch, attack the ridge first from the E side then follow the ridge while staying on the edge as much as possible. The slightly steep start leads to the slab in 4, protected at its foot by a piton and a bolt, in the slab there are a total of 2 bolts, a bar and a red friend stuck in a crack 1 m to the right of the edge. You then easily reach a antecime from which the ridge becomes more tapered.

Start of the Arete

The route is still long and the climb remains steep, many passages from III to III+, often on small exposed slabs. Follow the ridge as easy as possible or go around certain teeth, several descents equipped with rings (useless rappels). The crampon marks help to remove doubts about the route. With the IV slab at the beginning, only one other passage is equipped, a sort of 1 meter wide slab (2 bolts) which leads to the top of a small tooth, 2 pitons at the back of this summit (observations of 12.09.22). Finally we reach the snowy ridge which we follow without difficulty to the summit.

Approche

* Du Bergrestaurant Hohsaas (3140 m), suivre le sentier balisé qui monte vers l'E le long du Geissrücken. Vers 3200 m le sentier s'arrête ; en avançant au mieux dans les éboulis (traces, cairns), contourner la partie supérieure du Geissrücken par la droite (versant S). Prendre pied sur le glacier vers 3300 m et, en passant par un col peu marqué, atteindre le Hohlaubgletscher. Franchir la côte

rocheuse issue du p.3572m (cairn, peu visible la nuit) et, par une traversée ascendante vers le NE, atteindre le Lagginjoch (3499 m, derniers mètres en rocher instable). Env. 1h.

* De la Weissmieshütte (2726 m), suivre le sentier qui mène à Hohsaas jusqu'à environ 3000 m. De là, monter en direction E dans les éboulis (traces) jusqu'à atteindre le Holaubgletscher, que l'on remonte au mieux (crevasses) jusqu'au Lagginjoch (3499 m, derniers mètres en rocher instable). 2h

Jack Roseland on the Weissmeiss arête

Arête N 3-5h

Du Lagginjoch attaquer l'arête d'abord par le côté E puis suivre l'arête en restant au maximum sur le fil. Le début peu soutenu mène à la dalle en 4, protégée à son pied par un piton et un spit, dans la dalle il y a au total 2 spits, une barre et un friend rouge coincé dans une fissure 1 m à droite du fil. On rejoint alors sans difficulté une antécime à partir de laquelle l'arête devient plus effilée. La course est encore longue et la grimpe reste soutenue, de nombreux passages de III à III+, souvent sur de petites dalles expo. Suivre l'arête au plus facile ou contourner certaines dents, plusieurs désescalades équipées d'anneaux (rappels inutiles). Les traces de crampons permettent de lever les doutes concernant l'itinéraire. Avec la dalle en IV du début un seul autre passage est équipé, une sorte de dalle d'1 mètre de large (2 spits) qui mène au sommet d'une petite dent, 2 pitons à l'arrière de ce sommet (constatations du 12.09.22).  Au final on atteint l'arête neigeuse qu'on suit sans difficulté jusqu'au sommet.

Jack Roseland on the summit after 3hours of climbing.

Krister Jonsson
/
Alpinemadness.se

Klassiska repbroms tekniker

2023-10-04T17:47:00.002+02:00

Utbudet av repbromsar kan väl sägas ökat dramatiskt. Ibland till en höjd som närmast kan påstås osunt överdriven av företag som nästan anstränger sig allt för mycket. Vilket även inneburit återkallande av dessa produkter.

BD Pilot och Mammut Smart 2.0

Själv har jag ett par favoriter, för säkring av den som följer likväl av den som leder.

Och jag föredrar att bli säkrad pa led av en hjälplåsande sådan. Typ BD Pilot.

Okomplicerad och lätt.

HMS säkring med en extra karbin genom låsrepet
Med den så hjälplåser den repet

Men, ibland blir det ju fel och ”man” åker iväg utan vare sig den ena eller andra, i ren glömska. Så då får ”man” ta till äldre beprövade lösningar.
Som HMS och karbinbroms.
Men en HMS tvinnar ju rep och en karbinbroms är inte helt skottsäkert att säkra den som leder.
Så jag fördrar en karbinbroms för säkring av 2:an och en modifierad HMS för säkring av 1:an
Genom att klippa in en karbin i loopen på HMSen så blir det lättare att mata ut rep. Kan vara ett extra elände om repen är blöta. Dessutom tvinnar det mindre.

Genom att dra ut repet genom den extra karbinen så löper repet enklare
Dessutom, twinnar mindre

Säkring med 2 karbiner
Låt repet löpa genom båda karbinerna och tillbaka genom
den ena så repet hamnar emellan karbinerna

Och för descenten, firningen!?

Fira på ett rep och håll det andra på sidan så dom inte infiltrerar sig.

Även om man firar på ett tunnare twinn rep så blir friktionen nog.

// Jag rekommenderar att träna på dessa innan i en säker miljö innan!!

the Jubilee expedition 2022

2022-08-09T15:28:00.001+02:00

Under Maj månad 2022, över 29 dgr, gjorde vi, 6 st medlemmar i the Jubilee expedition 2022, en travers av en stor del av Svalbard på skidor. Med var sin välfylld pulka.

Hela äventyret organiserades av @jonaspaurell och Minou Hellgren.

En arrangemang som tagit väl sina 2 år att pyssla ihop.

Grund tanken var att försöka upprepa den expedition som Erik Adolf Nordenskiöld gjorde för ganska precis 150 år sedan. Men på grund av de stora klimatförändringar som vi moderna människor har skapat och som så markant har tagit fart sedan industrialiseringen och som tenderar att bara öka för att rent av närmast skena.

Detta gjorde att vi kunde inte gå hela den rutt som gjordes då. Det går helt enkelt inte att på ett rimligt säkert sätt gå över till Nordost landet på Svalbard p g a packis och öppet vatten.

Så vi gjorde en alternativ rutt som fick justeras och uppdateras relativt frekvent.

Vår plan och uppgift var att dels se vad som fortfarande är möjligt att göra i området samt att mäta och ta med oss viss data över ett flertal av glaciärerna. Således hade vi två forskare på området med. För att föreviga hela utflykten så deltog två filmare/fotografer, några av de mest rutinerade inom området gällande skidor, natur och kunskap i att jobba i krävande miljöer.

Jag själv kom med för att försöka säkerställa att samtliga deltagare kom tillbaka i ett gott skick och helst utan obehagliga tillbud.

Kartan över Spitzbergen med vår tänkta färdplan

Det blev ett ytterst inspirerande jobb som krävde en stor del anpassningsförmåga, öppenhet och känsla för vad som var möjligt. Och en rejäl dos navigering i minst sagt intressant väder.

Som om inte havsis och glaciärer är krävande nog så tillkommer dessutom inslaget av isbjörn, som vi givetvis ville undvika konfrontation med in i det längsta. Detta bidrog också till en del justering av den ursprungliga planen.

Under expeditionen så upplevde vi fantastiska och dramatiska vyer, enorma glaciärer som tog dagar att passera. Storslagen kyla och brutala stormar, stormar som ibland varade i flera dagar i sträck där vi endast kunde lämna tältet för att se till varandra och förbättra stormskyddet.

Vi hade goda möjligheter att pröva och testa vår utrustning till bristningsgränsen av vilka en del helt enkelt kollapsade och slutade fungera; tält, thermosar, kök, kastrullhandtag…kläder.

Men på det stora hela så klarade det mesta en relativt hård påfrestning.

Vi hade bland annat behagliga nätter i våra Helsport sovsäckar.

Mitt CRUX tält, CRUX shadow SL var mitt lilla slott och gav ett synnerligen bekvämt, om än i sin litenhet, skydd.

Ett bekvämt skydd i väder som bjöd på vind över 25m/s och ner till -28 grader. Men även en hel dag med regn och byvindar. Vi fick uppleva att gå från full vinter till en arktisk sommar. En sommar som gjorde det helt omöjligt att gå som planerat, på skidor hela vägen ut till Longyearbyn. Istället fick vi ta oss ner till Biliefjorden och där vi dag två nere vid havsisen, kunde ropa upp en passerande båt på radion och vi fick båtluffa tillbaka sista biten ut.

Totalt var vi ute i 29 dagar och gick från 79,8’ grader norr och nästan 300 km.

Alla kom tillbaka oskadade, förutom några frostbett och numba fingrar och tår.

Men en exit ut från Nordenskiölds breen som kom att ske i det sista av möjligt att göra fortsatt på skidor. Och utan att behöva bära vare sig skidor eller pulka. Något som kan beskrivas som mera tur än skicklighet. Men, det är aldrig fel med lite tur.

Och vi kunde unna oss, vissa mer än andra, en rejäl återkomst fest bland Longyearbyens barer.

Idag sitter jag helt plötsligt hemma och jag kan på många sätt redan sakna den fascinerande och behagliga dagsrytmen från Svalbard i den magiska midnattssolen. Dagarna fastblåst inne i tältet, natten under bar himmel nere på stranden, naturen..!

För er som vill se och ta del av allt så kommer det bl a att hållas en film- fotoutställning mars-februari 2023 på Färghuset i Stockholm. Filmvisningar kommer även att bli aktuella på ett flertal platser och plattformar. Håll utskick på #Jubilleexpedition2022.

Tills dess, håll till godo med knappa 30minuter av bilder och film sekvenser som på sitt sätt sammanfattar detta storslagna äventyr.

Deltagare
• jonaspaurell organisateur
• ERIK HUSS - Climat team research
• Minou Hellgren Organisateur
• Susana Hancock - Climat team research
• Martin Olson Photo & Film
• Awi Rabelista Nijhof - Photo and Film

• Krister Jonsson - IFMGA Mountain guide / chef sécurité

Ett utdrag ur min dagbok som jag förde under dagarna, det fanns lite tid i tältet på kvällarna...

2/5 Måndag den andra maj. Alarmet ringer på bordet bredvid sängen, taxin ut till flyget är beställd till 04:45. En taxitur på morgonkvisten ut till Arlanda. 960 spänn på knappa timman med Taxi-Torsten, därefter incheck med SAS flight till Longyearbyen via Oslo. 30 dagar arktisk vinter expedition väntar. Bref; vi flyger till Longyearbyn, landar 14:40, tar oss till Hotellet för att packa utrustning för 28 dgr i tält. Avfärd är tänkt att gå dagen efter, 3/5, med skoter ut till Åsgardfonna, en sträcka på ca 350km. Därifrån ska vi med skidor och pulkor cirkla Mosselbukta halvön på Spitsbergens nordligaste spets upp till 80:e breddgraden via Polheim och ut till Verlegenhuken för att sen försöka korsa över till Nordaustlandet. Något vi redan vet inte går då Hinlopen Stretet inte längre fryser utan är mest öppet vatten med stora mängder packis. Dvs livsfarligt att passera. Istället väntar retur.

Allt gott så långt.

Om inte det vore för att jag börjar morgonen med att vrida knöt ur led, en gammal skada som ibland gör sig påmind. Och det händer nu!! Brukar vanligtvis gå tillbaka om jag bara sitter ner och låter musklerna runt knät slappna av. Något som tar mellan 5min till en halvtimma, men det finns ingen tid för nu.

Haltar halvhjälpligt runt i lägenheten ute vid Telefonplan och utan hjälp av min hustru så hade jag inte ens tagit mig till den väntande Taxi-Torsten.

Långt senare samma dag. Det har blivit kväll. Övriga gänget flänger stirrigt runt och packar och packar om i pulkorna.

Jag sitter lite vemodigt på hotellrummet med närmsta månadens sista öl med benet så avslappnat som möjligt. Telefonen ringer, det är min hustru. Tar en klunk, svarar och slår ett välriktat slag på utsidan knät, det hoppar tillbaka i läge!

3/5 Avförd Longyearbyen med Hurtigruten Newton tSvalbard. 7 skotrar, 13 personer och ca 1050kg utrustning. Med min skoter chaffis Robert lämnade vi Longyearbyn 10:15, körde knappa 10 min innan vår skoter gick sönder. Snabb avkastning och retur tillbaka för byte av fordon till en ny Lynx 800.

Korsade några magiska storslagna områden i växlande väder upp tilll dryga 1200möh och Nordensköldbreen där vi lade första depån för returen, depå lll.

Forsatt upp över Trebreepasset och ner mot Veteranen. Passerande högsta toppen på Svalbard, den 1750 meter höga Newton toppen på vägen. Där vi får resan nästa haveri. Ett kälkfäste släpper med drag, krok och båge; allt.

Sen upp över Himinbjorgfonna och Åsgardfonna där vi 11h senare anlände läger 1. Tåbreen på 79.80:e breddgraden

Satte upp tältläger i lätt bris, ca -10grader och lätt snödrev.

Kvällskaffe och i säng med middag strax efter kl 00:00.

4/5 Vaknar upp ett flertal ggr under natten, lite svårt att slappna av och sova. Går ut 2ggr för att kolla ev Björn symptom. men båda gånger bara vind och lite björn stress. Kl 04:45 blir jag väkt av Erik som hör en björn cirkulera runt tälten och morrar. Det är Jonas som underhåller med högljutt snarkande.

Vaknar och kliver upp 09;20.

Tältdag

-10grader och stark bris, ca 7-8m/s

5/5 Strålande väder!! 3-5m/s och -10. Planen är att förflytta oss mot Polheim, Adolf-Axel Nordenskiölds övervintring under 2 år.

Lite inledande vapenträning och sen sen avfärd ner Tåbreen mot Mosselbukta.

På vägen undviker jag en enorm vindkanal som bildats vid en nunatak på Östra utlöparen av Tåbreen.

En lång platt passage tar oss över till Mosselvatnet där vi lägger L2 på 100möh.

En magisk kväll! Vindstilla och -5

Kvällstur ner mot bukta för att spana efter säl och ev björn som båda lyser med sin frånvaro.

Häng med!!

Krister Jonsson -

Keblines 2022

2022-06-24T17:15:00.003+02:00

An other winter has passed in the Lapland area of Kebnekaise

This was one of the most snowy winters that I have experienced lately in this part of the world. Just amazing quantities of falling snow more or less every day from beginning of April and over 3 weeks, with cold temperature and stormy winds. Which made it just perfect for powder skiing.

The amount of snow wasn't a lot, but the quality and stability of the snowpack, tip top.

And, with this kind of weather it also kept the helicopters away, grounded cause of non flying weather!!

More of that in the future I hope. And, most likely as well cause of the ongoing climate changes

One week before arriving in Kebnekaise the weather was more like spring time, melting snow, rain and even waves on the lake in Laddtjovagge which made it looking like full summer.

The snow mobile transport between Nikkaloukta and Keb was even cancelled for 3 days. Something that never has happened before already in the month of march.

But, then the temps dropped and it started to snow...

This year my wife could join me, again, for helping me with the work to prepare the Keb Classic ski race.

The work to put up the course was quite demanding with all fresh snow making it a really hard work to carry up the ropes and all other equipment.

We also choose to make it a bit extra demanding, including the whole ridge of Toulpagorni, so we had a full on schedule and no time for off work skiing this time.

But, finally I had one day between work and I could head out to try two lines that I hade seen since before.

One from Vierranvare, that was skied previously by one of the staff at "Sporten" in Keb.

This line took me to the valley between Toulpagorni and Singichokka. From where I had planned a new line on the steepest side facing East/ Northeast side of Singicohkka.

A quite demanding line that would involve some down climbing or probably a rappel.

The weather was with me and I could set off under a sunny sky and perfect temperature, a few minus degrees equipped with crampons, ice axe, 60m rappel rope and some stuff to make anchors with.

A pretty easy skinning took me quickly up to Vierranvare where, after some trouble to find the right couloir, I could start the descent down my first objective, The "Tryggve Couloir"

A quite steep but short entrance, some 55°, down to a more moderate section in a deep cut couloir of about 25° skiing and 550 vertical meters. At the exit it is probably no problem to just ski it out, with a good amount of snow. But this year I need to traverse out a bit to the left, steeping up with the skis, to a more open field which gave an easy sortir.

Unfortunately the snow pack was re-frozen and hard, except for the entrance. But a cool line indeed!

Well worth a Keb Line!

Next I traversed the valley and started climbing up towards Singicohkka, or Sinnicohkka as it is also called in the Sami langue. I took the ledges and runnels west of "Silverfallet" and could find some easy but slow terrain. I brought 2 axes just in case and that was quite useful a few times.

From the top, 1704, its easy, but a bit scary, to find the start of the line. Looks more or less vertical but slower down once in the terrain.

Approach with local skibums

Steep exposed no fall skiing to start with. Then I chose to exit the couloir to the left to go more on the north facing side over some nice powder field, which ends in a rock face.

So, time for a rappel where I could arrange a piton and a sling around an rock. The rappel is about 20-25m, so I just made it on one rappel.

Then its easier terrain, still a bit steep to start with but all safe. Skiing, traversing out more skiers left and then to the bottom of Silverfallet.

An other great line with actually a 1000m vertical descent, not bad!

Keb lines 2022

Vierranvare - Tryggrännan

Grade 3.1 / S3 / F

Short section of 55°

Equipment

Iceaxe / Crampons useful but not needed

Singicohkka - la Ligne

Grade 5.4 / S6 / TD

Equipment

Iceaxe, crampons, harness, 60m rope ( I used 1x50, 1x30m 6mm ropes)

Extra slings/nuts/pitons for the rappel might be useful

Steep terrain on Sinnicohkka

La Ligne - seen from Laddjuvággi

Middagsvy from STF Kebnekaise

Aguirre Tour d´Areau - un grand voie sportive

2021-10-05T15:21:00.002+02:00

This is one of the most scenic routes on Tour d´Area, with each and every pitch on a demanding level and which takes, at least mine, full concentration.

With a strong friend on a visit in the valley the response was given when he asked me about some routes that we could try out;

- We Should or must try the legendary Aguirre!

The German movie from 1972 with the same name was directed by Werner HERZOG, maybe relative with the famous Maurice HERZOG who led the great French expedition to the Himalayas and Annapurna in 1950?!

Anyway, long story short, this is what happened:

I had just a few weeks before had done an other route, that one on the 4th tower. Struggling to find the right start in an annoying fog, which turned into rain on the last pitches. Therefore I could only laugh when I was once again surrounded by clouds once up at the upper parts of the trail, just below the last bit up to the base of the towers. But, on the fifth tower the numbers of routes are less, and the start of Aguirre is quite obvious, just to the left of the big crack that splits the tower. If, you just could see the tower it self!?

Erik Massih confused by all the good sign post?!

By pure luck, the clouds made us the day and opened up for a moment while we just tried to wait for exactly that moment. A short spell in the fog and we new the way.

By starting from Mont Ferron, opposite Magland, we sawed at least 1h walk, each way. The hike via ref. Doran is good if your climbing on the 1-4th tower, but for the 5th and 6th Ferron is a better alternativ.

Our biggest hazard was just that hunting season was ongoing and the numbers of people getting shoot at and actually shoot dead is not a joke in France. Luckily the hunters had already lay down their first Sanglard of the day when we passed in the morning, and then we was safe away high up on the rock face for the rest of the day. Whit all the shooting going on util we descended in the afternoon/evening 😇

Once up at the base of the tower, the fight was on!

Erik Massih on crux pitch, @ 7b

Yepp, its steep

Upper part with the last 3 slab pitches

The start is very technical and steep, the last three pitches are very technical on slabs and canilurer.

Itinerary

L1 7a Severe departure then beautiful moves over sometimes a drop of water.

L2 7a / b Crosses a little to the right. Easy start then two crossings of bulges which require determination, relay on the right.

L3 7b + Bouldering start on holes, easier section in crack then and magnificent chute. Relay on the left.

L4 6c + Dalleux. Start crossing to the right then a few dancer's steps straight ahead.

L5 7a Very varied. Start in the less popular slab, easier section on scales, technical crossing to the right and groove of 10 m (1 point ...) to exit on a beautiful terrace.

L6 7a A little to the right, start of slab at the end then easier at the end.

Rappels are found by moving upwards and climbers left

Materiel

2x50m rope, lead rope / tail line, 12-14 QD´s

/Scars heals, glory fades...

Keblines 2021

2021-05-06T18:12:00.005+02:00

An other weird winter has passed in the Swedish Lapland

With the accelerating climate change the weather pattern is becoming more and more unpredictable. Well, in one way less unpresidential because one can be quite sure that it will not be as the normal winters as the once I grew up in. With long periods of cold stable weather. Instead its rapidly changing between warm and cold, a lot of precipitation which comes as rain even in mid january. But the biggest issue is the wind factor. Those days with huge snowfalls with big snowflakes that penetrates the air and forms a soft white layer on the ground, these days don't show up too often anymore.

When I look on the pictures and movies from the last winters I find a lot of great skiing, with big powder days. But the amount of stormy days with short movies where people are falling over, loosing balance and close to not being able to handle the equipment because of the strong winds, these days have a big number amount of days as well. That together with the rapid change of temperature makes off piste skiing quite difficult, with unstable snowpack and unpredictable slopes.

Singichokka - Couloir Royale

"Couloir Royale"

As always I spend a reasonable amount of time in the mountains of Kebnekaise each winter season. And my favorit time is April. Usually the snow has stabilized and the biggest avalanches has normally come down. And, the days are getting longer. I had a few lines from last year in mind that I wanted to try out. One is the obvious couloir that descends from Singichokka to the left of the "Last in Line" This is a quite technical route as well, that ends in a vertical section over steep rock, that would definitely need some rappelling. Said and done, I was lucky with a perfect weather spell on my only free day! After a quiet breakfast on a slow monday morning, all the clients from last week had left Sunday lunch and new clients arriving Tuesday afternoon, I had a full day for me and myself. Perfect timing!! With 2 ropes, a 30m and a 50m, in my bag. Some pitons and slings, ice axes and crampons and my new weapon, a Milwaukee, at the bottom of my ski-pack, I was ready to set of. The approach in the valley was easy on hard snow making it easy to move quickly. At the bottom of Singichokka I had seen the best way of getting up to the start of the couloir via the south east side and a bigger formation/couloir that looked easy enough. For sure the quickest way up which would make it easy tio find the descent line. Going up the couloir isn't an option for this one. Climbing the rock section looked enorm and would turn it into something else than this days goal - skiing!

a close look down the Royale

From the marked trail at the bottom of Singi I started up on skis towards the steeper sections above. After a few hundred vertical meters I had to put my skis on the back and steeped into my crampons. The sun was heating up quite a bit, but the clouds in the morning should have protected the snow in the couloir enough to keep it soft. But now the heat started to make the snow quite heavy on the south side, building up snow under my crampons for every steep. And worse, starting to send down rocks from above which forced me to be really observant and quickly move from side to side when some bigger stones came tumbling down the face. To avoid the worst parts I aimed for a section of steeper snow out left, trying to stay protected from getting avalanched with climbing up as close as possible to the rock face. But at one point the only way was via a few steeps out on a bad looking section of 40° snow. One steep out and there was something as a gun shoot. And all went quiet!! Slowly i took two steeps back in my previous foot steeps, as light as possible. Wow, it stayed! Reversing down the same path I was forced to go up a more narrow couloir on the right instead, taking the risk of rockfalls. The only other option was returning down, and that wasn't an option really.

Some 100 meters in the couloir and I could move out left again climbing over slabs and stones, well protected from avalanches and rockfall. And with my two ice axes I quickly made progress, even though that the snow kept building up under my crampons all the time. Two steeps, cleaning of the snow, two steeps... frustrating!

Finally, I stood on top and the goal of the day showed its entrance. A huge avalanche had come down over the top part, as well as that I could see what looked like an old release edge lower down in the couloir. Which made me feel somewhat better. Now it should be clear, more stable...probably. Arranging the tools in the back pack, putting everything in the right order and range the ropes / tools and harness on. Just sending the picture and position to my wife and I was ready to set off!

The fist section was over a bit of ice, quite steep to start with. But after i could ski into a part of lower angle and stable snow. A few deep breaths before sending into the couloir itself, trying to stay protected closer to the rocks and making as light as possible turns to get a feeling of the stability. And it soon turned out that the cloud covered sky in the morning had kept the snow soft and protected from the direct sun ray. So no crust and a little dust, actually quite a lot on top.

As I had seen from below the line got steeper and steeper and I could see the cutting edge from an old avalanche that had broken off from the second part of the couloir. Some 40cm fraction line. Speeding up the lower part I safely arrive to the first point of rappel. And quickly decide that the Milwaukee will do the job. A 30m rappel from a single bolt to the next section of skiing, just a short 40m descend to the next rappel point and placing an other bolt before rappelling down a narrow slightly overhanging chimney. Safe down to the exit and the last and relaxing part of the descent out back to the marked trail!!

Niibbás

An other objective that I was able to ski was just by coincident while passing trough Unna Räita and Unna Reidavaggi. From the summit of Niibbas, 1902mts, there is a few easy accessed lines. One of them is on the north west side from the small glacier that goes up betweenPyramiden and Niibbas. With some extra power in the legs on the way back towards Tarfala we made a quick hike up to the ridge line and found a descent with some variated but enjoyable snow. The way up we scrambled up the same way as the line of the descent, using crampons and an ice axe as support. This couloir is also very obvious but not really easy to see the upper part from the Unna Räita cabin, but once below at the glacier it shows a quite spectacular ride. Well worth doing with a small effort of bootpacking.

Routes 2021

Couloir Royale, 48°/ED1/5:3/S5

Equipment

2 x 30m ropes, harness, crampons, 2 ice axes

In the line of the descent there is 2 bolts places on skiers left at each section of rappel, 20m and then 30m

Niibbas Couloir NW 40° /PD/4:1/S4

Equipment

Crampons, ice axe

Ice Climbing Stora Sjöfallet - Nieras

2021-03-16T18:51:00.003+01:00

During a week in the area of Stora sjöfallet we, Johan Lindfors and myself, had the opportunity, with great ice conditions for the year as it looks, to climb a bunch of lines during our stay.

With the great help from the hosts at Stora sjöfallets Mountain Lodge we could get access to a beautiful area of the North side of Nieras and its East- and Norths faces. Which turned out to hold a good amount of potential new routes and lines.

We stayed for one week, with 5 days of climbing, and put up 5 new routes...

Fjällväder!

The first day, upon arrival, we was meet with a beautiful sky and high clouds and with a night that provided a great Aurora show on the sky high above. With a coffee in hand I spent 2 hours outside just amazed of the spectacular fenomen. But during the night we had a shift in the weather front, giving us a full on storm during the next 4 days. Which made us just stay down in the tree line the first day, enjoying the open tree skiing areas above the Mountain Lodge.

But, since our main misson was to climb we made a recon tour in the late afternoon up to the barrage of Sitas. From which we could see a huge number of interesting waterfalls and mixed lines on its East and North sides. We had a plan indeed!!

Next morning, still super strong winds, but we had found a line on the east face of Nieras which should be protected from the wind, a bit of lee side maybe. Which it turned out to be, if you don't mind the spinn drifts! We took a full day out climbing a quite interesting line over 3 pitches with ice up to WI5+. And totally blasted by the snow drift.

Nice to be well protected with clothes designed in Britain and tested in the Scottish Alps!

Leading Norrlands Guld WI5+

The following days we climbed more on the North facing walls of Nieras, putting up 3 routes up to WI6. But we had one more deal with the East face, a thin steep line of ice that looked just amazingly good. The type of climbing that I enjoy the most, technical ice formations over steep, overhanging rock. And it turned out to follow up all my expectations. Starting in nice beautiful blue sky weather we finished in beautiful spinndrift and full on storm, again!! 😎💪👊

Leading Den Tunna Blå Linjen

Johan following up the last pitch of Den Tunna Blå Linjen

When and were

Stora Sjöfallet is on the entrance to Sarek and Ritsem, on the way between Gällivare in the north and Jokkmokk in the south. There is a good bus connection when arriving with the train to Gällivare. The history about the place is caused of the huge water barrage, which provides Sweden with a great amount of electricity. Which has put a huge environmental effect over the area. Drowning and destroying many of the traditional Lappish villages and their traditional areas´´, many of which they were forced to leave the these constructions started to take place. Convenient enough the Swedish government at that time, changed the laws and restrictions to be able to construct these hydroelectricity power stations.

All this has of course changed the area in many ways, but it has also provided a good road up to this part of the massif of Sarek, Ahkka and Ritsem. By which we can access the ice climbing.

Nieras North face

Time of climbing

You can ice climb in this area during a long period of the winter, normally already from October/November until May.

Ninjo, WI6 @ Nieras

Finishing up "Ninjo" at Nieras

Accommodation

There is a few places to stay. Free camping is an option for the hard cores!

My best experience is at the Stora Sjofallets Mountain Lodge, with the option to rent a room, single double, or a cabin. With access to a great restaurant after a good day out!

http://www.storasjofallet.com

//Scares heals, Glory Fades!!

Grand Flambeau Sexocet - Monia Mena

2020-10-26T10:50:00.000+01:00

Thanks to Ezio Marlier, an Italian mountain guide from Courmayeur, there is a couple of good easy accessed mixed routes at the Grand Flambeau. Easily reached from the Helbronner telepherique.
It´s east face is definitely only a winter face, since it´s, in quite small words, a bit loose :-)

First pitch of Monia Mena

But, when stabilized with cold weather and refrozen snow, it´s no to bad. And in the combo with it´ s 10min access its a great choice for an introduction of the use of ice axes in the high mountains or when the weather is a bit on the bad side.

Still, at this time of year when the fist lift is at 08:30 and last descent is at 15:30, you have to keep the rope moving at all time to be sure to join the last bin back down. At least if the ambition is to top out!

Two nice but a little easier ones are Sexocet (M6) and Monia Mena (M7+)

Sexocet has a short crux section at the start which ones overrun its more M5/M4 climbing. This one aslo as a fun second pitch, steaming up a chimney formation passing under a jamed bloc.

Initiary Sexocet

P1: 25m M6 Climb along ice crusts and crack / physical blade, passage to the right in the gully / chimney stop on the left

L2: 20m M5. Immediately a narrow and deep gully, uncomfortable but well protected, coming out of a characteristic hole .... the one on the left is better, stop at the base of the exit corner

L3: 40m M4. Superb exit on the left and non-trivial channel, stop at a bolted belay.

L4: 40 m Go up to the left until you reach the snow couloir and join Monia Mena. On the way there is a large boulder with a bolt, this bloc is totally loose, if its still there!

Continue for another 2 pitches on snow with some short classic difficulties up to the cable car platform, voilá!

DESCENT

Abseil down the route from S3 or from Monia mena if you don´t go to the top.

From the top, go around the iron fence, follow the fixed cord direct out right, and then down the arete aiming for the snow arete below. Scramble down to an other section of jamed wires and some static rope to make rappel off from.

Monia Mena (M7+)

This route has characteristic first pitch with some good climbing which keep one busy over 25m.

Second pitch is much easier and after that your up in the same couloir as Sexocet. But the first pitch definitely makes it worth climbing.

Good protected with own pro and 5 spits

Initiary

P1: 25 m M7 + long ice crust and final physical overhang, 6 bolts along pitch 3 on the right in the hard pass and one at the exit in the center of the gully, belay on bolts on the right

L2: 40 m M5 immediately a narrow and deep gully and exit to keep ears straight, easy channel (50 degrees) and belay on bolts and cord on the slab on the right

L3: 45 m classic difficulty 50 degrees towards Evidente on the left and then on the right side of the canal stop on the right on bolts and cord

L4: 45 m slightly to the right and go around the rock, returning to the left and stop in the center of the channel towards under the clearly visible steel balustrades

P5: 25m still classic difficulties up to the cable car platform

DESCENT

Abseil down the route. Or same as the descent as Sexocet

An other nice route on this face, a bit more to the far right side is Cuori di ghiaccio

Initiary

P1: 25m nice pitch with sections of M5, bolt belay with sling on ledge in the middle of the gully

P2: 30m M7 start up overhang, fairly difficult to get established above this (bolt on the left above the overhang), then gully and not easy exit, bolt at exit and bolted belay with sling

P3: 45m classic winter difficulties, 50° leftwards to the base of the gully, bolt belay with sling on the right

P4: 45m follow the gully and then continue up wide open slopes

P5: 45m classic winter difficulties up to an obvious triangle where the line joins the last belay of Koala pirla

DESCENT

Abseil down the route. Or same as the descent as Sexocet

Returning to ponta Helbronner

Equipment

Cams Green alien to #3 Black diamond

1 small set of wires

5-7 QD´s

50m rope (x2 if rappelling)

Yellow line is Monia Mena / Orange Sexocet

Utsiktslöshet är inget faktum - utan en sinnesstämning att övervinna...

2020-09-28T17:00:00.003+02:00

Sommaren 2020 kommer nior att gå till historien som en av mänsklighetens mera påtagliga sådana, mycket och manga har kommit på kant och kast under denna Covidment period. Som ännu i skrivandets stund har långt från att summaras nått sin vägs ände.
Men, sommaren i denna delen av världen har nog nått sin, som det i siktet ut genom fönstret ser ut i vart fall. Speciellt i kombinationen av att kolla in kommande långtidsprognos.
Le météo är minst sagt övertygande i sitt uttryck vad gäller kommande veckors nederbörd och temperaturer.

Förra höst samt vinter hade meteoblue.com en rätt intressant och sedermera träffande bild av sin promoria. Årets hörs upplaga visar en kall period nu i september/oktober för att sedan gå mot varmare än normalt igen fram mot december. Dock mycket nederbörd för januari och fram mot mars...

Att Convid haft en allt genom positiv inverkan på klimatet är uppenbart. Och kanske är det sådan dramatiska effekter som är det enda slutliga för moder Jord att ta till för att hålla dess mest krävande innevånare, Sapiens, i schack!?

Med en allt kallare och vitare omgivning så har det dragit ihop sig till att summera ännu en intensiv och på sina sätt, dramatisk sommar men ett flertal milstolpar och fantastiska upplevelser.

Att själva inledningen av sommarmånaderna skulle kännetecknas av att stå med högerfoten i en gipslåda, det var väl långt från och knappast den inledning som stor att önska.

Jag drar mig till minnes blickarna jag skickade på alla dess som lättsamt joggade förbi i värmen, utan att, som jag tolkade det i vart fall, själva fatta hur lyckliga dom kunde hålla sig att kunna utföra en sådan minst sagt enkel handling.

Dessutom minns jag väl känslan av skam och idioti att under en sådan period av epidemi sitta i en väntsal på ett sjukhus! Att komma och draga på en sån stupiditet som en bruten fot som utspelats under ett än större tillfälle av opraktisk dumhet, att falla rätt i backen från 2:a klippet. Lyckligtvis en klockren landning, men allt och ändå, efter en kämpande cykling hem till boet och en natt som passerade mestadels sömnlöst för att sedan inse att bara ta sig till morgon toaletten var närmast uteslutet...kort sagt, det skulle krävas ett ingrepp.

Sagt och gjort och snart stod jag där med gips och kryckor och med en prognos om 5 veckors bok och vila. Sen rehabilitering och så där fram emot september, lite längre promenader!

Lyckligtvis så synkade nog varken kropp, hjärna eller emotionen något av denna information, så när första återbesöket kom att genomföras 11 dagar senare fick gipset raskt åka av, med motivet att det inte går att flyga med gipsad kroppsdel. Och sen avhandlades rehaben av i än raskare takt, i aktiv bergsmiljö.

Och så kom sommaren -20 att bli en bra klättersommar allt till trots.

Inte minst p g a mitt senaste inspirationsköp, stavas PROBLEM SOLVER, väger dryga 400gr och finns med överallt!

Det andra som nämnda epidemi bidragit som positivt med är våra upptäckter av alla dessa fantastiska små klätterklippor i Östergötland. Tack vara min goda vän och ägare av Altitude Access så resulterade inte bara nedstängningen av det mesta av mina guide jobb till ett ytterst intressant utbud av Rope Access jobb, dessutom av Olofs generösa utlånande av bil vilket resulterade till att vi, jag och Anna Backlund, kom att kunna utforska en stor del av kända och mindre sådana klippor runt om i en del av Sverige som jag aldrig kommit att traversera tidigare.

Klippor som Söderö med sina 20-25meter av rena spricklinjer är av hög kvalité, dessutom fick jag möjligheten att sätta en 1:a bestigning. "Réves de Verdon" 7a+

Men givetvis, så har klättringen runt Chamonix, nu som alltid satt störst avtryck.

L´Eveque, Aiguille du Moin, voie Rebuffat på aig. Midi, le Grand Capucin, Adolphe rey, Aiguille du Peigne, de Pèlerins....le Brevent inte minst!

Samt all sportklättring nere i Vallee l´Arve. Liksom le Parèt ovanför vårt nya hem i Servoz...

Sen ett par större Alpina turer där kanske Paralpinism a la Dome de Miage slog högst!

Antagligen så hade det pressats in ett par berg och turer till, men då de Tre T;na tar sitt

Ting -Tar-Tid, så har det gått en och annan timma till alla anmarscher och packningar inför de BASE dagar som passerat.Och fler det bliva skall, om hälsan och hoppet fortsätter sätta in!

-----------------------------

Väck på l’Eveque

2020-07-11T17:10:00.007+02:00

Möjligtvis med ett visst inslag av överoptimism men klättringen rullar på och jag tycker oss göra ett bra tempo och enligt det utritade topon så har vi snabbt avancerat med ett stort antal replängder bakom oss. Att Mont Nonne, som har ungefär samma höjd som själva toppen av l’Eveque, 3469m, fortfarande ståtar en så där 200-300m ovanför oss förmår jag enkelt att ignorera. Istället intalar jag mig liksom Anna att

-jodå, ett par replängder till, säker bara nästa gendarm, så är vi uppe! Men oj så fel det kan vara!

Descent från Couvercle

Med ett osedvanligt stabilt framför oss så har vi placerat in att försöka avverka ett av våra förutspående projekt i Massif du Mont Blanc, Mont l`Evueque via Arete Contamine, via Ref Charpoua, samt Östväggen på Aig. du Moine, via ref. du Couvercle. Också via Contamine, voie Contamine/Labrunie

Två fina och långa klassiska klätterturer på mont blanc´s massivets briljanta granit.

Som alltid så är det en upplevelse att bara komma upp till Refuge Charpoua, en av områdets äldsta refuger som insuper en historisk känsla som inte minst infinner sig när man sätter sig till bords för att intaga den av gardienen, Sarah Cartier, tillagade middagen. Här runt bordet har dom alla suttit; Rebuffat, Bonatti, Cassin, Stäck....och inte minst André Contamine själv.

Anna, någonstans på l´Evueque

En lång resa uppför och över ett oräkneligt antal gendarmer och toppar har bara börjat! Lite som väck på l’Eveque. Men hela tiden på fast och fin klippa i en omgivning som gör allt för att uppmuntra stämningen. Och med molnbankar som konstant lyfter och täcker in oss i ett behagligt lugn och sinnesfrid. Och i sinom tid borde vi nog komma oss upp, i André ’s fotspår

För att citera en annan känd André, vår Svenska luftballong farare;

Vår position är ej synnerligen god!

Så illa kan det nog aldrig beskrivas men det flesta skulle nog idag anse att le traversé av l’Eveque är att betrakta som en smärre expedition. Med anmarch, klättring och nedstigning.

Vi var dessutom ute i Contamine tema så även Östväggen på Aiguille Moine lades till i upplägget, via voie Contamine/Labrunie, om totalt 3169 höjdmeter.

För att sen, från toppen av aig du Moine, promenera tillbaka ner till Chamonix, en sådär 2992m höjdmeter.

Hamnar ni här, då är ni definitivt fel!! Men det var en x-tra bonus med en fin spricka

Anna på en av alla Gendermer...

Innan hon ger sig på att klättra upp på nästa...

Sent på kvällen, efter 10timmars klättring är vi nere vid bivack hyttan vid Couvercle, nöjda och glada intar vi en storartad middag i gott sällskap och med en bra portion kaffe.

Slänger omkull oss i bädden och intar 4h timmars sömn innan vi åter startat espresso bryggaren för att knata upp till Aiguille du Moine´s östvägg och ger på så nästa Contamine tur, i spåret av le professur de

l´Ensa, Ecole National Ski et Alpinism, som hade en sådan förmåga att leta upp fina klätterturer, och att klättra dom snabbt. Och vi hänger på bäst vi kan...

Som vid sin bestigning av Dru, 700 höjdmeter, 7 pitonger och 7 timmar!

Klart å betalt!!

Toppen av Moine

Afterclimb på l´Hôtel Montanvers

Utrustning

l´Evêque, 1x50m rep, 1 litet set kilar, Grön-Röd Ailien, #0,75-#3 Camalot, #4 Kong Gypsy

Isyxa, stegjärn

Anmarsch från Ref Charpoua ca 40min

700m klättring i tidvis svårorienterade terräng, undvik att klättra upp på gendarmerna för en kortare dag, klättra upp på dem för att få den finaste klättringen.

Tid mellan 10-12h

Firning från toppen med 25m firningar, 7-8st

Nedstigning till Glaciär du Talèfre på högersidan av passet, på klippan.

Utrustning Aiguille du Moine Voie Contamine

1x50m rep, 1 litet set kilar, Grön-Röd Ailien, #0,75-#3 Camalot, 8QD´s

Nedstigning via normal leden på Moine, scrambling och ett antal 25m firningar.

Mera info

https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55198/fr/aiguille-du-moine-voie-contamine-labrunie-face-e-

//www.alpinemadness.se

Le Bastillion - Aiguille du Midi Face Sud

2020-06-28T19:44:00.007+02:00

Thunderstorm syndrome

All good for a great day of climbing on altitude on the aiguilles of Chamonix.

To make it an easy day, first days on attitude for some 3 months, the south face of Midi would do as the perfect choice. Easy access, stunning climbing, belle vue...on y va.

With a low slight risk of a overcast with a little chance of precipitation it should go fine with a 1/2 model of alpine start, going up with the telepherique at 09:00, and the route!? A mixture of lines trying to link all the big corner and cracks together to get a high level of climbing and a uniform level of climbing.

As always, just the drive up the valley over viewing the surrounding mountains is surly breathtaking, each and every time. And with the knowledge that in some 15minuts your gona be stepping out of a telepherique at 3800mts, with out more effort than buying a ticket...on y va!

Again as always, a few meeting with a few friends at the top. Happy faces with a great day a head coming up. Finally, after a couple of months covidement, who can complain? If you wanna sing there is always a song, on y va!!

As always, the 15 min approach is as beautiful as ever, this year even better than in many years. With all the late cold weather and snow the arete du Midi is an easy one with most of the cracks well filled in.

Even the rimeye to get to the wall is still, at the end of june, in a very easy mode.

As always, even though I have been at the poutre for more time than ever before (a broken foot syndrome), still the odd granit feeling is a strange one and the comfort zone is not yet back there.

But, a few meters climbing adds a few millimeters of confidens...so keep adding meters will help!?

As always, the great feeling and friction of the mont blanc massif granit, its cracks and formations, is harder than remembered. But, fighting, cussin and growling, always pays back and a few pitches brings back the good feeling memories, happy crawling fingers!

One of many great pitches of the M-B variation

As always, my wife has come up with a great plan of ideas, and each and every pitch is better than the previous, linking the south face as the Bastillion of the sharp guillotine.

Something that really shows its reality when the recently named person, my wife, arrives at the upper belays on the 10th pitch

-Oh, is it snowing?

-Well yes, its been snowing for some 10 minutes alright. But as long as its only snowing it won´t be to slippery...

Still good weather going on...

As always, it started to RAIN...*

Premier, I climbed the next pitch in a bit of heavy snow, then belaying Anna up in blue sky....before the big bang and the thunder road moved in full on!

Now it turned from odd pleasure to really bad, hail; OK, snow; OK, rain; O...K, thunder; not OK!

Belaying Anna up the second last pitch things are fast moving into really bad, I can only watch as the normally good friction of rock goes into covered and plastered ice and snow.

And, at this pint there is only one way to go, that is up!

An other team of two has taken the road down on the final east wall of Midi, which would for the moment send them to a safer spot. but only into to nowhere to go, surrounded of loose rocks and no escape.

For me, there is only one goal at this point, bring the ice axes out and climb and dry-tool the uppest part to the top of Midi, find the anchors and make a s fast as possible traverse and rappel down AS POSSIBLE!

Then, with a safe rope over the aiguille, bringing Anna over when it has calmed down with lightning.

Now its survival mode sort of....

As always, my confidence grows with the task and mission.

-Whats the likeliness of being hit by a lightning, really!?

Well ok, at this point, being on the highest place in the area surrounded by metal installations, equipped with metal, crampons, ice axe, carabiners, wet ropes... oh la la, well its a small chance.

While hearing the sound and growling moving up, the bad feeling of being at the wrong place at the, ok, wrong time, I try to make distans to most of the iron stuff around when there is suddenly a;

BANG!!!

Ahh, someone is hammering my head hard and down; pushing, hammering, beating, everything at the same time. Thunderstruck, but luckily still there. Probably saved because I moved away from my hardware and was still on dry shoes with a good rubber sole. But a small dizzy feeling.

On the exposed Midi summit

Back in safety

-shit, I´ve been hit by lightning... I wonder if there will be one more? Is that really possible?? Two times at the same day???

Pricing my foresight, I still have our rappel rope out and not in the bag, so I can quickly organize that one for the rappel still being on the lead rope to bring Anna over when all is ready.

Which in a long minute brings me down to the safety of the both of us, securing and untying from the ropes, cache all the metal stuff and just waiting out the last thundering and happily cheering as it moves away. Quickly belaying Anna up and over the needle and down again to safer safety.

Then, watching the other team stranded in nowhere as the lightning is picking up again.

-we need to get them a rope!

One team of 2 lost in nowhere...but we could manage to get them a safe rope

1hour later and we are all, stranded climbers as well, are safe down with a, as always, nice cup of "noisette" @Café vertical in moder home Chamonix!

Aiguille du Midi Face Sud

Equipment

50m rope

2-3 of blue to red Alien

2 0.75-2 Camalot

1 small set of nuts

8-10 QD´s

Crampons, ice-axe, ice-screw

(Kong Omni bag, Haul bag, optimal)

*well, OK, i exaggerated a bit here.

Keb Lines 2020

2020-04-13T18:52:00.000+02:00

The winter of 2020 is going to be remembered as a much different winter in many ways.
The winter of 2020 also delivered a lot of snow in the north of Scandinavia. Around Riksgränsen we could see bigger amounts of snow than ever in modern times. Not those huge amounts around Kebnekasie, but still more than usually. Almost like in the "old days"

This area isn't very crowded to start with, and 2020 with the world wide virus going on, hitting each and every little ski resort. So of course this remote place got the share of it as well. Suddenly CONVID-19 was on each and everybody lips, the oddest thing with the staff and local tourists did have much effect of it, almost not even understanding what was going on really. And then that suddenly everyone started to cancel their visits, well as with a lot of other really surrealistic things, it just didn't feel for real.

We arrived in Nikkaloukta and headed up to Kebnekasie STF station with a weather forecast that could mean anything and everything. But, at least the snowpack felt stable, with cold weather predicted.

Cascade du Quarantaine

Since I was a bit in to ice-mode we first headed for an ice-fall a bit lower down towards Nikkaloukta, some 10km more to the east.
A route that I scanned on the way up the week before, that looked like a nice un-climbed project, possible 2 pitches.

Anna on the first pitch of Cascade du Quarantine, WI5+

Arriving at the base it looked even steeper than on distans, with an interesting roof to pass some 10-15m up and then straight up for a vertical section that turned out to be good solid climbing as well.
Finally we even got a third pitch of 45m up some shorter sections of 90° ice. In total 3 pitches of up to WI5+ on great stalactites and solid ice moments
Cascade du Quarantine
3 pitches
WI5+
Location; Between the great ice line "Coeur du Giant" and "Couloir du Elan"
Descent, same line on abalakovs

Cascade du Quarantine

After two days of stormy weather it finally cleared up and we could head out for our planned tour over to the area of Nallo and Vistas.
This area is more to the north of Kebnekaise and even more remote, like really remote. The access on skis normally takes two days or one big day. Depending on the size of your back pack.
But the effort is worth all the sweat! This area has a huge numbers of great lines, un-skied lines!!

The great view overlooking Toulpagorni / Kebnekaise

The obligatoire Reindeer stop in Nikkaloukta

Our warm up tour to Tjäkktjatjåkka is quickly turned into a little more and bigger tour to the neighbor of Tjäkktjabakte and its spectacular looking east face.
A quick detour to pick up some more alpine stuff like crampons, ice-axes, harnesses and a short rappel rope and with the great blue skies we was on our first, and very much improvised mission!
Our 3hour schedule to the summit turned out to be very correct and at 15:30 I hiked the last bit towards the summit corniche. which I respectfully stayed away from as much as I could, just taking a short shortcut towards what looked like a safe place to get an idea of the ridge going down to the run.
Suddenly I see a crack line that is detaching the corniche and at the same moment as a jump left the whole thing just disappears down the face, still with me happily on the just departed top, #&%?!, sigh....

With an other of these cat lives just disappearing we at least had gotten a good test of the snowslopes below us, everything that stil is on place should be more than solid to ski, sort of!
After a short debriefing I start down the first section of mid-steep terrain where Anna joins me before a short exposed traverse to the next section of a steeper couloir. And then into a bigger area of more open and less exposed skiing down to the valley, a good descent of almost 750 vertical meters.
Don't fall!!

Tjäkktjabakti östvägg

Steep on Tjäkktja Bakti

Some great turns finishing on Tjäkktja Bakti Östvägg

Tjäkktjabakti Östvägg
5:1/S5/E:3/ 54° - 750m
Crampons, Iceaxe, sometimes maybe a short rope to make some 10-15m rappel is necessary

The local `Fjällväder´ in Kebnekaise

Sielmma Batni Couloir

This as a couloir that I have been looking on for quite a few years, just a brilliant line which is cut deep in the mountain dividing the small looking tooth from "Flint nålarna"

the LINE!

Easy to access via the route towards Sielmma tjåkka, but then heading up towards the corniche of Flintnålarna. A bit of tricky skiing down to the saddle and then...just a beautiful line with not even a death potential!

Overlooking the couloir

Sielmma Batni couloir
5:3/S7/E:2/ 63° - 400m
Crampons, Iceaxe, harness, 40m rope

Great times on Sielmma Batni couloir

Classic jump and turn!

Evening planing

Couloir du Silence - summit 1762 (or 1750 on old maps)

This is an other obvious line from an unnamed mountain above to the north of the Nallo hut.
It holds a couple of lines down its south looking face.

Anna, finally, on the summit ridge of "1762"

the access is best made over the small lake below 1880 and then up the north face. We put on our crampons quite low and booted up, the last bit was a fight with the suger snow covering the rocks, but after a couple of tries we finally made it. Must more difficult than it looks!
Once on the ridge its a safe last approach and then a cool line which never goes steeper than 45°

Couloir du Silence

Couloir du Silence
PD 4:1/S4/E1 45° - 800m
Crampons, iceaxe

Couloir skiing!

Keb Lines 2020

Couloir HanZo

Unfortunately everything has an end, so as this one. After some great remote days we needed to head back towards Tarfala and Kebnekaise again, cause of the food issue...!
On the way we picked a route that would give us a few longer and slightly steeper descents, before ending up in the valley of Tarfala. Since the weather had been more than perfect the last days we expected and got a hard northern wind with really cold air. But, luckily mostly in our backs.
Once back in the Tarfala terrain we scanned an other line to bring with us. This time from the east side of Norra Klippberget, just above the Tarfala refuge.

HanZo Couloir

A short skinning up Isfallsglaciären and then a section on crampons and some easy, very easy, scrambling ups to the east summit and the ridge of the peak. Payback, a beautiful couloir down the north looking face to the 1150m lake. No obstacles, just pure semi-steep skiing. A line to finish the Keb Line season with!!

HanZo Couloir
F 4:1/S4/E1 45° - 500m
Crampons, iceaxe

Fun meter ON!

HanZo Couloir

//Keb lines 2020

Khibiny Mountains - Kola Peninsula

2020-03-16T13:44:00.000+01:00

In times of mild and dry winters the area of Kola Peninsula is a snow safe place to visit.
Not famous for huge amounts of snow like the Japanese mountain range, but due to its far north location it is manly cold winters starting already in october.

As a comparison most of the skiing in Japan is between 40-45° latitude, the Khibiny mountains are close to 70°latitude! Something that has been a problem this year in Japan with many ski resorts that has kept closed due to lack of or no snow at all.

We started an 11 dat ski-trip from St Petersburg and then train to Apatity, with one day of skiing in the ski area of Kirovsk. Before heading out to a Refuge 20km from the road end, surrounded by mountains up to alost 1200m high.

Supported at the refuge by our Russian staff which served a good variation of traditional Russian food and drinks.

This is a great area to visit from March until mid May, but for the cold snow March is probably the best time. Earlier in February it is still quite short days.

Descending towards the town of Kirovsk

A combination with the very punctual Russian trains givs the whole trip a bit more of adventure when you end up seeing areas that one might not be existing.

But the trains it self are very trustful and have a good reputation to always be on time, which we can only agree on after our journey. Including a very good train restaurant, well, except the coffee.

You just need to book the tickets well in advance and choose 2nd or 3rd class...depends on the experience that you want!

For further information, please contact alpinemadness.se / Krister Jonsson

Skitouring in the Balkans 2020

2020-02-25T17:01:00.001+01:00

Our first trip to the Balkans, covering Albania, Kosovo and Makedonien with a good amount of fresh powder and great experience of skiing in the backyards of Europe.
Skiing of the peaks that are up to 2800m and a good 1500m descent in a day.

Via Alpinemadness.se we arranged this trip starting from Prishtina on a 7 day course inb the mountains of the Balkans.

Next year might be your opportunity to join!?

Our Ski-Villa!

Traverse the Balkans 2021

Flight PRISTINA - BREZOVICA

Day 2 : BREZOVICA – PREVALLA

Day 3 : PREVAL – LUBINJE

Day 4 : LUBINJE – VERTOP

Day 5 : VERTOP – BROD/RESTELICE

Day 6 : BROD/RESTELICE – RADOMIRE/TEJZE

Day 7 : RADOMIRE/TEJZE – Mt KORAB

Price per person 1780€

Includes

Ackommodation with 1/2 pension

IFMGA Guide

Local transports

And a good amount of skiing!

*Prel. program fot the week that might be changed due to conditions and weather

Day 8 : Mont KORAB – PRISTINA, flight home

Aravicimes - Paré de Joux

2019-12-26T12:43:00.000+01:00

Aravicimes is a modern mixed route in the Aravis massif. Normally, with good snow and ice conditions its considered fairly easy, up to M4. But with lack of snow, early in the season its a quite demanding hard to protect route with a lot of climbing.
Mostly the harder sections are quite short, but long enough to keep you focused.
Over all an interesting route with a lot of fun!

Paré de Joux

With a long period of very mild temperatures and strong föhn winds, gale winds in the high mountains and zero visibility, made it really hard to find any accessible climbing.
But my personal mountain detective and wife put in a great job as usually and came up with a few interesting alternatives, one of them "les Aravicimes"
A quick look on the map a and avalanche risk convinced me to have a go.
It might be a blind shoot but when reading the topo I could only think that with the maximum grade of M4;
-how hard can it be?
So we stuffed a few ice screws, tured out to be unnecessary, a small set of wires and some cams and a number of QD,s with the ropes and took an early start from Fayet to La Clusas and les Confins.
The last days of mild weather had made the snow pack more like béton but it only made the 1 1/2h approach easier.

Magnus on the approach

Well at the bottom of the route we found some old footsteps going up and coming down, so we started to hope that maybe its in better conditions that it looks!
The first two pitches turned out not to be described in the french topo. Probably just because there´s wasn't enough snow to have filled up to where the route normally begins!?
P 1 40m of snow couloir up to a very interesting belay point.
P 2 50m, first on thin ice and the snow. Belay on top of a section of rock, bolts

From here it started to look a bit questionable and suddenly the old footprints was gone as well...
A short vertical section which was dryer than the driest martini. But on the left I could find a crack system in which I could put a few pieces of protection to start with at least. In the end i tied off a frozen-in stone and tried to think of my self as very light.
A short traverse out right to some frozen herbs and finally I could swing my axes into solid ice, victory part 1

Next pitch, again very easy, but above was again a vertical wall that looked just really dry.
I soon got my suspicion confirmed, desperately looking for anything to place some protection but the only thing happening was time running away. In the end I just have to give it up, retreating down to the former bealy. End of story!
But maybe, a chance to traverse the section around to the right!?
A last desperat call in which at least i could place a few things here and there on the way, ending at a blank wall with nothing except a few loose blocks. But with desperation and a "go light" thought I finally abled my self to crawl up as far so I could bunch the shafts of the axes deep enough to support me.
And I found a crack that took my last few wires.
We was out climbing, super bad dry conditions, but at least we was off-route, great times.
After a long tense traverse back leftwards, we finally was back on track again and now getting covered in spinn-drift.
Luckily it turned out to be easier climbing from now on and slowly making progress...

Route description
(P 1 & 2 if lack of snow)
P 1 40m of snow couloir up to a very interesting belay point.
P 2 50m, first on thin ice and the snow. Belay on top of a section of rock, bolts.
Itinerary
L1 85 ° 40 m Go over a wall at 85 ° more or less well protected (tufts of herbs)
L2 50 ° 30 m Go up a slope at 50 ° for 30 m. to a cave on the left, clearly visible when ascending up the Paccaly valley
L3 90 ° 50 m Climb a short 90 ° section (sometimes tricky) to recover on a snow slope. Then cross a short section of 70 °
L4 60 ° 50 m Go back up a slope to 50 ° then 60 °
L5 65 ° 40 m belay on the left
L6 35 m Continue this ascending crossing on the left and cross a short rocky outcrop
L7 75 ° 50 m Climb first on the left then right above the couloir (short passages of 75 °)
L8 80 ° 50 m Pass through a cave and exit through an icy chimney (80 °), then go up a snowy slope
L9 75 ° 50 m Climb a narrow couloir for 20 m (75 °, 1 piton on the right), then go up a snow slope
L10 M4 55 m Continue on the snow slope for 20 m, then cross a delicate mixed section (M4 fixed pro). Intermediate belay possible after 35 m
L11 40 ° 50 m Go back up a slope to 40 ° to reach the summit

Equipment
2x50m ropes
1 set of wires
Green to Red Alien, small cams.
#0,75-2 Camalot
2-4 ice screws, if ice!

All belays in place
Descend by rappelling the route

La Chambotte - Aix-les-Bains

2019-12-22T12:25:00.001+01:00

Beautiful suited over the lac du Bourget at almost 650m is the nice climbing sector of la Chambotte.
It is a south facing big section of limestone, well bolted and up to three pitches of good climbing covering over all grades. Perfect for beginners who want to improve or try leading multi-pitch climbing.

La belle vue over lac du Borget

ACCESS: You can access it from both sides of the mountain:

1) From La Biolle: located on the N201 connecting Aix les Bains to Annecy. Take the D991B on the left

passing by ST Germain la Chambotte then La Chambotte.

2) From Chaudieux: located on the D991 connecting Aix les Bains to Culoz (along the lake). Take the right

D991B which goes up to La Chambotte.

Park in the car park between the tunnel and the village. There is room for many vehicles if everyone makes the effort to park intelligently.

Pass (on foot!) the tunnel and descend to the hairpin to find the path that runs along the cliff.

Don´t park directly at the hair-pin!

le Diedre de l´Arbre

The climbing start directly after leaving the road. And there are many nice routes but I have, so far, three favorits not to be missed.

Sector du Diedre de l´Abre

le Diedre de l´Arbre (6a obl)

Tripaille, Farine, Pate, Riz (6a+)

Both have tre nice pitches

Sector Toit Triangulaire

le Toit Triangulaire (6a+)

An other 3-pitch route with interesting fun climbing, not to be missed!

le toit triangulaire

the body crack of toit triangulaire

le toit

the sectors

Toit triangulaire topo (route 6) start to the right up to the ledge and then traverse out left

It is possible to climb here during the whole year round, but the summer months can probably be very hot!

Equipment

2x50m ropes

10-12 QD´s

Verdon - Lame Fatale

2019-12-07T19:32:00.000+01:00

Verdon, the classic Patrick Edlinger play ground
With its rock faces, low alpine surroundings, the deep canyon and scenic nature it´s just a big playground for a number of sports, climbing, hiking, canyoning, biking and not to forget Climbing & BASE jumping!!
It´s just one of these places I have to go to at least once a year!

Anna Backlund on a Verdon steep classic!

The approaches can be kept quite short, a 5 meter hike to the rappel point direct from the road. So in this case the combo with good French cuisine most be under good control if you don't want to gain to much waste pondus.
But, there are some exceptions, as always.
For me I have found some of the best routes starting from "Malines" driving the Rue du Crete anti clockwise from Palud sur Verdon village.
Still not a huge approach, but at least its a little warm up before the climbing starts. And once on the top of the route, your more or less at the car!

the habitats of Gorge du Verdon

Ackommodation in and around la Palud sur Verdon is very easy in many ways. During high season with warmer temperatures the camp sites are numerous and cheep.
There is also a few R B´n B´s but the old French version of the same, Gite du France, is really a good and well worth the money option.
In Palud there is one just opposite the church and close to everything in the center of the village.

la gorge - the Grand canyon of Verdon

Best season for climbing is, for me personally as a Scandinavian, spring or fall. Many times late november and early december is a good time with still stable weather and good friction. But, most of the time that means climbing on the south facing walls.
It can also mean a few days of rain or even snow!

One of my favorite routes are "Lame Fatale" 6c/7a, an 8 pitch route in the section of "Malines" (described above)
It has a few neighbors with really high quality as well, but the cool thing with Lame Fatale, as the name says, is the upper sections exposed climbing on these limestone type blades.

Topo, route most to the right

Take the ridge road from La Palud sur Verdon towards the chalet Maline (anti-clockwise on the map). Park at the first real car park on your left, carved in the rock, after a fairly sharp left turn.
From the car park, return to the beginning of the left turn. A cairn marks the entrance to the descent path, 45min/1h, with some sections of exposed down climbing to a fix rope at the bottom. Keep an eye open for the red dots!
At the foot of the cliffs, follow the foot of the wall for about 100 meters, pass under overhangs, until you see a large yellow pillar. A well marked path joins at the bottom of the route.

7 or 8 pitches, deepening on your belays, takes you back up to the road. Enjoy the second and the second last pitch specially!

Second pitch note; Technical crossing in slab.
Do not stop at the first belay. When it joins "Chan", continue to climb another 10 meters (short steep wall) to reach a belay (2 bolts) on a small terrace. Take care when belaying the second on this one.

The travers of pitch 2, Lame Fatale

Exit pitch on Lame Fatale

Equipment

50m rope

15 QD´s

Extra sling/biners for a few of the belays

We got a snowy situation

The forecast turned out to be just as right as we thought it would be!

Second last day was supposed to be filled with heavy rain and even snow. And yes, they was right!
But with the steep Verdon walls of the gorge, the climb could go on!

Tour du boulangerie

la vue d´Early bird

Traversing the Gorge a la Slackline!

// Everydayadventure

French Direct - Alpamayo

2019-10-24T20:40:00.000+02:00

Alpamayo - Cordillera Blanca

Once voted as the most beautiful mountain in the world by Alpinismus magazine in 1966.
Alpamayo is in the Huascarán National Park in the province of Huaylas, Peru and it rises to an elevation of 19,511 feet.
The closest bigger town is Huaraz, a very nice Peruvian town some 10hours from the capital of Lima

This has been one of the mountains to climb one day on my "must have to do list". I bought the topo over this area long time ago when I picked up my interest for mixed- and expedition climbing.

And after my previous trip to Argentina and Patagonien the Cordillera Blancas of Peru was the next on the list in this part of the world.

So when I got the question of going there to guide it, well the answer was easy to make!

The journey

The flight over to Southamerica from Europe is not to bad, if you can find the direct flight from Spain. If you end up hip hopping between all the numbers of airports between Peru and Geneva, well then its an other more demanding and boring story!

Actually the best way to do this flight is to buy a one way ticket to Lima and then buy the retour direct in Peru when time is up to go back home. Its 1/2 price on the flight in Lima instead of buying an expensive ticket aller retour from Europe.

Monsieur Eduardo at Lima Taxi

Magnus getting acklimatisized

Once at place we had an arrangement with a local Lima man who supported us to the busstation in Lima for a direct trip up to Huaraz. An eight hour trip on good roads with a great comfy bus. We took the night bus which meant that we didn’t miss any time really and the bed was included with the ”Bus & Bed” service.

At Huaraz we had found a great local place to stay at a private Gite, Zarela Zamora López, some 10min walk from the city center, away from the traffic and noise.

Ackommodation is good, breakfast is ok, but its possible to order extra ”supply” with great plates of fresh fruits and müslie. This we quickly finished and headed out for an afternoon acclimatization tour.

Around Huaraz there is a number of high passes and beautiful places to hike and scramble up to, all around 4500 and up to +5000meters.

We made a couple of easier treks and scramble tours around the town, taking day trips from Casa Zarela. And enjoying the great number of restaurants in town in the evenings.

The great views seen from Huaraz

After a few days we headed for a 3 day trip to Pashpa and Ishinca.

This valley is surrounded by mountains with the highest one, Palcaraju 6274mts, clearly rising high above the Ishinca refuge.

As the first day of climbing we headed for the lower part and the south peak of Palcaraju Ouest, 6110mts

via the South West ridge.

Second day we therefore took an easier day climbing the Nevds Urus 5495mts, before heading back to Huaraz and a great meal at Creperie Patrick.

After a est day climbing some doubtful rock at los Olivos. But, for a couple of hours play its an ok, but not more, place to hang out. But, be prepared for a very warm session. There is also a lady with a small dog walking around claiming money for climbing there.

Palcaraju 6274mts

Refugio Ishinca

Mixed climbing up the Palcaraju South West ridge

Magnus just below the summit of Nevds Urus, 5495mts

French Direct

Finally we was ready to head for the main goal, Alpamayo was waiting with a nice sunny spell of good weather.

Conditions suposed to be good a and all things set for an interesting week to come.

The drive up to Cashapampa passed better then suspected on good roads and the hike up to BC is a nice trip by it self. We did it over a 2 day hike which made it most pleasant and enjoyable. Perfect time to listen on a bunch of down loaded pods in-between inhaling the nice views.

We also found out that we had gotten us the best cook in whole Peru, who continuously served us with great food. Almost so we didn’t want to leave BC!

When making the last plans we decided to make it as light and quick as possible to try to climb Alpamayo via the French Direct. A route that probably should have been named American Direct, since it was first climbed by two Americans. But with an tragic accident with two french climbers getting killed by a sera fall it was named French direct.

The French Direct follows a prominent snow and ice flute in the middle of Alpamayo's iconic southwest face via snow and ice runnels that ends abruptly at the airy summit ridge. Sometimes reaching the highpoint is too dangerous of a proposition, and plenty of climbers have called it good after reaching the summit ridge. People has even died falling through the corniced ridge.

This year, 2019, the conditions turned out to be quite good.

We established our high camp at the line between the glacier and the moraine, usually called Moraine Camp at 4900mts. And then made plans to make an early start to go direct for the summit, without the Glacier Camp.

A plan which I think with light and right equipment is the best choice.

So with a 23:00 breakfast call we was ready to leave our home at 01:10

Moving over the glacier and up to the col was super fast in the frozen conditions to the col at 5400mts at 03:30

To our surprise we was still all alone, nobody camping up here and no one a the route, we had the whole mountain for our self!!

Approach for the Moraine and High Camp

The upper glacier was soon crossed with some painful tracking up the last bit to the start of the climb in deep fresh snow.

The bergschrund was easily passed with just a short vertical section and then the next part of hammering up the snow and ice formations could begin!

And since we didn’t have any other people around this passed easy as well and soon just after sunrise we stood at the summit col, just some 30meters away from the summit. Which turned out to be a most airy massage of very interesting climbing on refrozen, slightly overhanging snow.

Sending two happy lads on top with the most stunning views to been seen in the best ever weather to think of!

A dream for filled!

Moraine Camp views

Alpamayo - French Direct

Equipment

2x50m rope (topo says 2x60 but for me it worked out fine with 50m)

2-10 ice screws (depends on the conditions I guess, but I used only 2)

1-2 snow stakes

Altitudes

Cashapampa 2900 m.
Llamac 3800 m.
Camp de base 4300 m.
Camp moraine 4900 m, petit et pas d´eau.
Camp col 5400 - 5500 m sur glacier

Altitude5500 m / 5947 m

Dénivelé positif700 m

Dénivelé des difficultés550 m

Pente 90°

Un "petit" 6000 m raisonnable et une orientation W bien pratique pour ne pas prendre le soleil trop tôt. Petit dénivelé mais qui prend du temps : Suitth. vant les températures, faire attention à la dernière longueur en neige foireuse, ne pas arriver dans la chaleur.

la Chasse aux Trésors - Mont Oreb

2019-10-13T10:26:00.001+02:00

La Chasse aux trésors is an other great Piola route in the aiguille rouge massive.
It travels up some variated climbing cut in two different halves, 6 plus 6 pitches.
This route is to be find on Mont Oreb, 1h15min on the trail up vallon de Bérard from le Buet, Vallorcine.
Find the cairn at 1702m (46,01205N/6,88709E) and continue up right on the well marked path. This route starts quite far right on the falaise with the first bolt some 3-4m up on a broken slab.
The route Diamants de Sang is about 10m higher up to the left. to find Trésors just walk down passing ¨de Sang¨ towards a terasse of blocks

Approach up Vallon

This is a nice area with a couple of interesting routes which are getting more and more popular. But a good escape on warm days or when its to crowded in Chamonix
(Topo at the bottom of the page)

Mont Oreb

The first part
L1, 5b - a broken slab
L2, 5c - a slab and then a short diedre and a small roof
L3, 6a - Traversing leftwards
L4, 6b - the premier Piola slab, short crux section
L5, 6a+ - Some interesting slabs
L6, 4 - Pass 2 bolts and find a defuse trail rightwards

Walk up some steep grassy and rocky section more or less straight up to the base of a small diedre.
More to the left there is an other route with a lunule.
The belay is visible some 30m above

Second Part
L7, 6c - Start up a short slab aiming for a tricky looking diedre, which are protected with 3 bolts
L8, 6b+ - Traverse right over a couloir to a slab. A small roof up to the belay
L9, 6a+ - a nice crack section white looking rock to the left, 45m
L10, 6b+ - an engaging diedre on soli rock with a spectacular traverse out left to a pillar
L11, 6b+ - Continue up the red pillar, short crux at the top section, 45m
If rappelling stop here, if walking down its an other pitch of 5b with 5 bolts

Descent
Makes more or less the same way down, following the same sentier between the two sections, possible to make the rappels in 4 plus 3 rappels, the last is +50m
Take care of left equipment if there are Chamois around!

Equipment

2x50m ropes, if rappelling back down
a couple of friends C4 size #0.3-#2
8 QD´s plus some free biners for belay

Moby Dick - Aig de Mesure

2019-09-30T18:49:00.002+02:00

Aig de Mesure to the left

Want to get away from the crowds and looking for a nice steep route on solid Gneiss, here is one:
Moby Dick on Aiguille de Mesure!
Put up 2002 by mr Piola, with friends, its again a solid Piola route. But this one is well bolted with not to many run outs. Even on the easier pitches

Approche

After col des Montets continue towards le Buet. Just before the village there are a few parking spots on the right.
Take the first left (horizontal forest road that goes to the waterfall in Bérard), or park in the parking lot opposite (S 1365 m). Take this road for about 500 m. Then take a narrow path to the left (indicated Praz Torrent unfortunately invisible from the road).
This path leads to the head of Praz Torrent (point 1803 m). Continue towards the homonymous needles, then before the path really straighten (cairn next to a very large block), leave it to engage left in the Combe de l'Encrenaz towards the pass of the same name. Climb it back to the best (cairns and chamois). Pass near a bivouac then a large fractured block characteristic. Cross then the scree to join the opposite wall

Time 2h

The start is located roughly in line with the spilling area with roofs in a pretty colored wall.
The original departure is the one on the left. A few meters to the right is a variant for L1 / L2

Grading
The original quotations are 6a +, 6b +, 6b +, 6c, 6c +, 7b, 6c +, 6a, 6c +

Materiel
2x50m rope
11 QD´s
Crampons might be good in the early summer

Summet!

Take care on the rappels, some are quite airy...

Voie Bonatti Mazeaud - Petites Jorasses

2019-09-08T19:40:00.000+02:00

Beautiful climbing on fabulous rock in a grandiose and solitary environment - Voie Bonatti Mazeaud on Petites Jorasses

ROAD ACCESS:

Once you have arrived in Courmayeur you enter Val Ferret and continue the road up to Lavachey. Parking the car near the large picnic area in Fréboudze 1650m.

Its Italy, so always start with a good warm up!

APPROACH:

Cross the stream with the wooden bridge and follow the path that goes slightly uphill until it meets the stream that descends from the Frébourze Valley. A good marked path.

Now go up the right side of the valley and the stream, follow the meadows until you find little cairns and yellow marks that lead to an area equipped with fixed ropes, a short section of easy scrambling. Once you reach the upper part of the valley, always following the yellow marks and the numerous cairns, you go to the left, alternating between snowfields and stretches of debris. A last short stretch equipped leads to the comfortable Bivacco Gervasutti 2835m.

Attention because the conditions of access to the bivouac may vary depending on the season. (3h30 / 5h00 from the car)

ACCESS TO PETITES JORASSES

From the bivouac go down on the glacier proceeding towards the evident wall, which is reached in about 1h00. The route is variable depending on the conditions and time of the year.

The base of the route...

START

At a system of easy cracks and corners below the large dihedral that characterizes the climb

A bit og sac hauling after the 7a crux pitch

Anna following on the same...

Work out!

ROUTE

13 pitches of great climbing!

A good topo is hard to find. The most detailed topo is the one on the Danza Verticale website, since the old Piola topo isn't possible to find any more.

However there's no description of the upper part of the face in it.

The first five/six/seven pitches are very obvious. Thereafter the routefinding becomes somewhat a little difficult. At the end of the corner of the crux pitch there is a belay. You must continue leftwards to the second belay a few meters further and not go straight up if you want to follow the original line (going straight up is also possible and not completely illogical but there is at least one very loose section).

After that, a good route finding instinct will be at your benefit...

TIME

8-12 h

Descent

Two options:

normal route (north-east ridge to Col des Petites Jorasses) (take all glacier gear with you)

rappel using bolted belays: just before the South Ridge ends at the highest part of the face there are some belay anchors. Take the one with two bolts that is just on the east side of the ridge. A few steep (bolted) rappels take you to the easy angled slope. Find the next bolted rappel not too far from where the Bonatti route ended. Rappel further down the bolted belays that take you to the LEFT side of the Bonatti route when FACING DOWNWARDS. So you are not rappalling on the same route that you climbed. From the last anchor above the glacier a traversing rappel has to be made back to the first belay of the Bonatti (where you probably left your glacier gear). From here it's a short rappel to the glacier.

Remarques

Very beautiful climb, not crowded, in a wild environment. Bivacco Gervasutti is very well equiped and worth a visit by itself.

Take care with your equipment if you leave any at the bivack or at the base of the route. We had one back pack stolen, but its a demo and its only one made of this kind so it will be easy to recognize :-)

Matériel

Set of cams BD #05 - 3 (double of 0.5 to 1)

Set of Aliens Green-Red

Small set of wires, small sizes good

2x50m rope

Picture from Piola Topo...the nowadays stolen one :-(

External link

Camp to Camp

Höjdsjuka, symptom och förebyggande behandling

2019-08-18T13:51:00.001+02:00

Med ökande höjd så sjunker lufttrycket. Ett måttligt sänkt lufttryck spelar dock mycket liten roll för helt friska personer. Men när höjden över havet passerar 2400 meter kan anpassningen emellertid ta längre tid, vilket kan medföra att man drabbas av så kallad höjdsjuka. 3-3500m brukar för de flesta vara en kritisk gräns. Höjdsjuka beror på att balansen mellan vävnadsvätskan innanför och utanför kroppens celler påverkas av ett lägre lufttryck så andelen vävnadsvätska utanför kroppens celler till att börja med ökar. Benägenheten att utveckla höjdsjuka är mycket individuell och det finns inget påvisat samband med fysisk kondition eller ålder vad gäller anpassningsförmåga till höjd, i för övrigt friska personer.

Klättring på hög höjd, Alpamayo "French Direct"

Symtom och behandling

En ökad mängd vätska utanför cellerna i hjärnan orsakar till att börja med vagt illamående, svaghet och dunkande huvudvärk.

Det får inte plats mer ön en viss mängd vävnadsvätska innanför ett oeftergivligt skallben.

En Diamoxtablett lindrar besvären tillfälligt men kan i värsta fall maskera en försämring.

Diamox (acetazolamid) kan skrivas ut på vanligt recept i Sverige även om preparatet inte finns i FASS.

Det används vanligen som ögonmedicin och ges för att minska på trycket av ögat.

Om höjden ökar ännu mer förvärras de nyss nämnda besvären och kräkningar tillstöter när hjärnan pressas samman. Det kan kännas mycket tungt bara att gå och huvudvärken blir mycket intensiv. Den flyttas från främre delen av pannloben till baksidan av skallbenet. Och ger en dunkande plågsam smärta.

Minskad balans och oförmåga att gå i en rak linje är synnerligen allvarliga tecken. De som trots detta inte återvänder till lägre höjd får också ökad mängd vätska i lungorna och riskerar bokstavligt talat att "drunkna" invärtes.

På mycket hög höjd (över 6000 meter) räcker inte lufttrycket till för att ens förse kroppen med syre och då tillkommer andra besvär.

En syremätare kan vara en bra investering för att hålla koll på din acklimatisering

Förebyggande behandling

Lugn acklimatisering - stanna 2-3 dygn på 2400-3000 m höjd och ta sedan bara 300 m/dygn. Undvik extrem ansträngning och håll ner pulsen. Sov på så låg höjd som möjligt. Ät täta men små måltider och drick rikligt med vätska.

Diamox kan användas i förebyggande syfte men har ibland biverkningar i form av yrsel och illamående. Speciellt brukar det bli en pirrande känsla i fingertopparna. Dosen bör vara så låg som möjligt – 1-1/2 tablett à 125 mg morgon och kväll brukar räcka.

Vilka bör undvika hög höjd?

De som har avancerad blodbrist, kärlkramp, hjärtbesvär med nedsatt fysisk förmåga och/eller de som har nedsatt lungfunktion (KOL) bör/skall undvika hög höjd. Individer med vissa ärftliga blodsjukdomar (ex sickle cell sjukdom) skall inte heller utsätta sig för hög höjd.

DIAMOX FÅR ABSOLUT INTE ANVÄNDAS FÖR ATT NÅ ÄNNU HÖGRE HÖJD TROTS BESVÄRANDE HUVUDVÄRK OCH ILLAMÅENDE. RISKEN FÖR ÖKAD MÄNGD VÄTSKA I LUNGORNA OCH SNABB DÖD FINNS FORTFARANDE KVAR. BÄSTA OCH ENKLASTE BOTEN MOT ALLA FORMER AV HÖJDSJUKA ÄR ATT OMEDELBART ÅTERGÅ TILL LÄGRE HÖJD.

Krister Jonsson / IFMGA Mountainguide

Dent de Tsalion West Ridge

Dent de Tsalion: West Ridge

Les Tropiques - Maladiere

Maladiere in the Valléé de l'Arve

There is a possible "rescue" route to ascend in case of a failed attempt on Eclipse at Noli Me Tangere: reach the large cave of Dante's Inferno, descend directly below it, then to the right, and ascend below the Petite Maladière (beware: steep grassy slopes)

Approach for Les Tropiques

Pilier Brand - Solalex

Here you can find 2 quite remote and beautiful routes on a wild pillar of the South of the les Diablerets

The approach is possible from both Sion and Derborence 1464m and via Martigny, Gryon and Solalex

Weissmeiss Arete Nord

Approach

N Ridge 3-5h

Approche

Arête N 3-5h

Klassiska repbroms tekniker

the Jubilee expedition 2022

Deltagare • jonaspaurell organisateur• ERIK HUSS - Climat team research• Minou Hellgren Organisateur• Susana Hancock - Climat team research• Martin Olson Photo & Film• Awi Rabelista Nijhof - Photo and Film

• Krister Jonsson - IFMGA Mountain guide / chef sécurité

Keblines 2022

An other winter has passed in the Lapland area of Kebnekaise

Keb lines 2022

Vierranvare - Tryggrännan

Singicohkka - la Ligne

Aguirre Tour d´Areau - un grand voie sportive

Keblines 2021

An other weird winter has passed in the Swedish Lapland

Ice Climbing Stora Sjöfallet - Nieras

Grand Flambeau Sexocet - Monia Mena

Thanks to Ezio Marlier, an Italian mountain guide from Courmayeur, there is a couple of good easy accessed mixed routes at the Grand Flambeau. Easily reached from the Helbronner telepherique.It´s east face is definitely only a winter face, since it´s, in quite small words, a bit loose :-)

Utsiktslöshet är inget faktum - utan en sinnesstämning att övervinna...

Väck på l’Eveque

-jodå, ett par replängder till, säker bara nästa gendarm, så är vi uppe! Men oj så fel det kan vara!

//www.alpinemadness.se

Le Bastillion - Aiguille du Midi Face Sud

Keb Lines 2020

Cascade du Quarantaine

Sielmma Batni Couloir

Couloir du Silence - summit 1762 (or 1750 on old maps)

Couloir HanZo

Khibiny Mountains - Kola Peninsula

In times of mild and dry winters the area of Kola Peninsula is a snow safe place to visit.Not famous for huge amounts of snow like the Japanese mountain range, but due to its far north location it is manly cold winters starting already in october.

Skitouring in the Balkans 2020

Aravicimes - Paré de Joux

La Chambotte - Aix-les-Bains

Verdon - Lame Fatale

Equipment

We got a snowy situation

French Direct - Alpamayo

Alpamayo - Cordillera Blanca

The journey

French Direct

Alpamayo - French Direct

Altitudes

la Chasse aux Trésors - Mont Oreb

Equipment

Moby Dick - Aig de Mesure

Want to get away from the crowds and looking for a nice steep route on solid Gneiss, here is one:Moby Dick on Aiguille de Mesure!Put up 2002 by mr Piola, with friends, its again a solid Piola route. But this one is well bolted with not to many run outs. Even on the easier pitches

Approche

Voie Bonatti Mazeaud - Petites Jorasses

Beautiful climbing on fabulous rock in a grandiose and solitary environment - Voie Bonatti Mazeaud on Petites Jorasses

Höjdsjuka, symptom och förebyggande behandling

Symtom och behandling

Förebyggande behandling

Deltagare
• jonaspaurell organisateur
• ERIK HUSS - Climat team research
• Minou Hellgren Organisateur
• Susana Hancock - Climat team research
• Martin Olson Photo & Film
• Awi Rabelista Nijhof - Photo and Film

Thanks to Ezio Marlier, an Italian mountain guide from Courmayeur, there is a couple of good easy accessed mixed routes at the Grand Flambeau. Easily reached from the Helbronner telepherique.
It´s east face is definitely only a winter face, since it´s, in quite small words, a bit loose :-)

In times of mild and dry winters the area of Kola Peninsula is a snow safe place to visit.
Not famous for huge amounts of snow like the Japanese mountain range, but due to its far north location it is manly cold winters starting already in october.

Want to get away from the crowds and looking for a nice steep route on solid Gneiss, here is one:
Moby Dick on Aiguille de Mesure!
Put up 2002 by mr Piola, with friends, its again a solid Piola route. But this one is well bolted with not to many run outs. Even on the easier pitches