Ms. Glaze's Pommes d'Amour

Please come check out my new site!

2012-05-17T23:52:49-07:00

Hi folks! Thank you so much for following my stories throughout the years. I hope that you will come on over with me to my new site for more. I've just come back from a month long vacation in Europe and I have so many stories, and restaurants, and hotels I want to share with you!

Here's my latest, it's a long story, but I think you will enjoy it. It's dedicated to a long-time blog reader...

Come on over and read it and give me your feedback on the new design!

http://www.amyglaze.com/paris-honeymoon/

Ms. Glaze is Moving to Amy Glaze...

2012-04-03T14:17:16-07:00

First of all let me say THANK YOU! for your support and comments over the last 7 years. I hope that you will follow me and resign up on my new blog at:

AMY GLAZE'S POMMES d'AMOUR

It is still a work in progress. I am in the process of going through years of photos and trying to re-upload them. But I think it's a better layout and easier to organize cooking adventures. I welcome any comments on design.

If you have linked to me in the past on your blogroll would you be so kind as to change the URL?

Merci Bien!

Amy Glaze

(Ms. Glaze)

Lobster Ravioli, Pea Shoots, & Smoked Paprika Sauce

2012-03-22T21:34:22-07:00

I made these lobster raviolis for a friend of mine who spent 9 months craving sushi, shellfish, and martinis. I promised her lobster once her baby was born and here it is!

This is not the easiest dish especially if you start from scratch. I picked up my lobsters from my fish monger, butchered them, barbecued the bodies and poached the claws for presentation. Then I made the filling (while trying very hard not eat all the lobster) a tasty mixture of: pancetta, lobster meat, tarragon, spinach and lemon zest with enough ricotta & parmesan to bind it together.

Then I made the pasta with the ol' hand crank pasta machine. Boy, isn't that fun. Especially when it won't grip the granite.

5 hours later I put filling and pasta together to form ravioli resembling the shape of agnlotti. Technically agnolotti are stuffed with meat, cream, and cheese. But I like the little half circle pillow shape, so I used lobster. And yes mostly agnolotti are square. (I know one of my former chef's is going to email that correction to me, so I might as well mention it upfront!)

The red sauce gets its flare not just from the smoked paprika but also the lobster roe which dots with little red pearls. The base is cream and parmesan – my fav. If you get a lobster with roe, by all means use it! When you remove the head from the body if a blob of dark green jell-o comes out – that's what you want.

Not to be confused with what some people call 'lobster butter' which is grey-ish green in color and located towards the front of the head. (Sorry, wish I had photographed the parts here). I only stir a tablespoon amount of roe into the sauce right before serving because it can give an amoniated taste if boiled too hard. The roe will thicken the sauce and add a lobster bisque like flavor – a little goes a long way.

Spring has finally started to sprung (does that make sense?) and I think pea shoots are a festive way to celebrate the season. And they pair nicely with tarragon and lobster which is generously mixed in the ravioli stuffing.

To cut the 5 hours prep time to something more manageable I suggest buying frozen lobster tails (the presentation claw could be ix-nayed) and pre-packaged sheets of pasta which they now sell in such reputable stores like whole foods. Check the date on the pasta. Egg pasta should be very fresh otherwise it's no good.

If you do want to butcher the lobsters here's how I do it. And I'm pretty darned fast after killing about a million a day at Le Bernardin. Eric Ripert was adamandt about fish/shellfish sustainability and also that they are processed humanely. This is his technique for the quickest death (we do not boil them alive or twist thorax from body while they are alive even though it's faster)

Put lobster on cutting board. Taking a big heavy sharp chef's knife place the tip right above the eyes in the center of the head. With a quick and sharp movement press straight down through the head (kills lobster instantly) and pull forward with the knife blade splitting the frontal lobe in two right between the eyes. Pick up lobster, turn it over, and make a quick jab right above tail and through body (under legs).

From here it depends on what you want to do with the lobster. It is easy to twist the thorax from the tail and the claws from the thorax. I like to split the tail in half (using my extra heavy sharp chef's knife) and barbecue it shell side down with lots of butter – yummmm. The claws can be cooked in salted (like the sea – I mean salted) water on a strong simmer for about 3 minutes.

Cracking the shell off the claw and keeping it in tack is difficult and hard to explain in words. But I'll try: pull the smaller lower pincer off gently shaking it loose with an up and down movement. When I do this a cartilidge disk comes out with the pincer. It is very important to get the whole lower pincer out in one piece or some one can choke on that invisible little disk. To get the remaining claw shell off I take the back of a heavy knife (not the blade, don't ruin your nice sharp knife!) and whack the claw on the top and then on the sides. It should pop off. Then I pull out the meat!

(Good luck with that, the claws can be tricky).

Some day I'll get around to making a lobster butcher video, in the meantime, I hope you enjoy this recipe!

Lobster Ravioli, Pea Shoots, and Smoked Paprika Cream Sauce

(Makes about 24 large raviolis) serves 4-6 people with a few extra ravioli

Lobster filling

3 2-pound lobsters (smaller is okay), tails cut in half and BBQ'd with butter shell side down for 3 mintues until medium rare. Knuckles and claws (broken apart from each other) cooked in salted simmering water for 3 minutes and shells removed. Keep the claws whole for presentation and chop the knuckle meat for ravioli.

Filling

1/2 bunch tarragon,chopped

5 slices pancetta, cooked and chopped

1/2 large bunch spinach, blanched, pressed extra dry in a sieve, & chopped

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 6 egg yolks, lightly beaten

1/4 cup of water (add little by little)

6 ounces ricotta, drained

4 ounces grated Parmesan

Salt & Pepper

Pasta

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

6 egg yolks, lightly beaten

1/4 cup of water (add little by little)

Sauce

1 pint heavy cream

6 ounces grated parmesan

1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon lobster roe, depending on what's available

2 tablespoon smoked sweet Hungarian Paprika

Presentation

peashoots

For filling: make completely sure that spinach has been pressed dry and ricotta is drained. Then chop everything and mix it all together. Taste. Add sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

For Pasta: Place flour on countertop in a mound and create a well in the middle. Pour egg yolks into well. With a fork mix the yolk with the flour working from the inside out. Once the dough resembles rough cornmeal add water little by little and knead the dough until it is pliable and elastic, about 6-7 minutes. Press dough into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap to let rest at room temp for at least 5 minutes.

Set up pasta machine. Follow manual instruction and roll out pasta into sheets. It should be thin enough to see your fingers through it. Lightly dust with cornmeal or flour if folding the sheets so they won't stick together

Cut pasta to desired shape and place up to 1 heaping Tablespoon of filling in each form. Seal edges of pasta by pressing firmly with fingertips. Make sure to squeeze out any air bubbles. If dough is a little dry brush a tiny amount of water on one edge. Cook in boiling salted water for 3-4 minutes until al dente. Normally they float when done.

Sauce: bring cream to a simmer and let reduce gently for 3 minutes. Add all the grated parmesan and whisk to incorporate. Add paprika. Sauce can be made ahead and then let to cool and refrigerated. If this sauce boils for too long a time the oils in the cream and cheese will separate. Right before serving gently reheat and whisk in roe.

To serve: warm the bowls. Ladle sauce into the bowl. Dip the ravioli in melted butter before placing on top of sauce to give a little shine. Sauté pea shoots in a little butter or olive oil for about 30 seconds on high heat and place in middle of pasta. Lobster claw can be warmed with a little butter and put on top.

For pictures from a previous post on how to hand roll pasta check this out: Pasta Free Form

Dutch Apple Baby & Truffled Skillet Soufflé: Cast Iron Breakfasts

2012-03-08T14:49:17-08:00

That long title is a complicated way of saying: one basic recipe, two different results. My Mom makes Dutch Apple Baby for fancy brunches. It's a crowd pleaser. Especially when you enter carrying a poofy egg soufflé that smells like hot apple pie.

I revived our family recipe for a brunch at Echo Valley Farm but offered a choice of sweet or savory – or both! It cooks perfectly in cast iron skillets. (In fact I wouldn't do it any other way.)

And it looks great on the table – rustic charm. Bandana and Coveralls not included...

Next to opening a box of cereal and putting it on the table, this is a very easy breakfast. And unlike tradional soufflés there really is no messing it up: It will puff, it will fall, it will be delicious.

While heating two cast iron skillets in the oven with a generous amount of butter, I make the egg base in a blender (eggs, cream, milk, flour, salt). In one hot skillet I add apple slices, sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla extract creating a pan caramel. Then I pour in half the egg base once the apples are soft and the sugar is ooey-gooey...

To the other hot skillet I use the rest of the egg mixture adding a little truffle oil, chopped truffle shavings, and fresh thyme. Half way through the cooking I add pieces of homemade goat cheese. Just about any omelet concoction could be added to the savory soufflé: ham & cheese, wild mushrooms & spinach, etc.

The main trick to this pan soufflé is to make sure the iron skillet is well heated and that your guests are seated when you are ready to serve it. Just like any soufflé it will deflate some after a few minutes. The filling has a texture somewhere between custard and quiche.

Serve up with a big green salad and some bacon and sausages.

Dutch Apple Baby & Truffle Skillet Soufflé

This recipe makes enough egg base for two 9"-cast iron skillet soufflé's

Heat 2 cast iron skillts in an oven at 400˚F. When hot add 1/3 cup butter to each and return to oven. Meanwhile prep for the Dutch Apple Baby:

Slice 2 apples and mix with:

5 tablespoons of granualted sugar

1 teaspoon of cinnamon

1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

Pinch of nutmeg.

In a blender mix he egg base until smooth and frothy, reblend right before pouring into the skillets:

1 cup flour

12 large eggs

3 cups milk

1 cup cream

3/4 teaspoon sea salt

When the butter in the skillets is melted and frothy add the apple sugar mixture to one and put back into the oven for a few minutes until the sugar has formed a pan caramel and the apples are soft. To the other add half egg base mixture with:

1/2 teaspoon of white truffle oil

1 teaspoon of chopped black truffle shavings

3 sprigs of fresh thyme, chopped

Pour the remaining egg mixture over the Dutch Apple Baby and cook both soufflés at 400˚F for 20 minutes until the centers are just set. If desired add cheese (goat cheese or gruyère to the truffled soufflé half way through cooking. Serve immediately before they fall!

Pumpkin Butter: In Bread, On Pizza, By the Spoonful

2012-03-08T12:52:31-08:00

I know you're wondering if I've totally lost my mind with pumpkin recipes in March, but when I said (in my last pumpkin mole post) we have 70 pounds of sugar pie pumpkins that are in dire need of attention or they're headed straight to the compost pile, I wasn't kidding.

I've always disliked pumpkin butter. It just looks awful. But out of need to extend the season here at Echo Valley Farm, I thought I should bite the bullet and give it a go.

Here's what I learned: pumpkin butter is fabulous – I love it! I use it in yeasted bread with rosemary, on pancakes with maple syrup, and as a sauce for pizza topped with gorgonzola, caramelized onions, & arugula.

Pumpkin butter should no longer be home canned according to the new USDA ruling due to its density that makes it difficult to guarantee an internal temperature of 240˚F. There is still a chance of botulism because of this. Better to be safe than sorry.

But that's okay, because we are striving for foods sold fresh or frozen here at Echo Valley Farm. Why go to the trouble to grow all these gorgeous fruits and vegetables and then completely cook away all the nutrients?

Pumpkin butter is pumpkin purée from roasted sugar pie pumpkins that is blended and cooked down over low heat until it is thick. I add agave nectar, honey,ginger, all-spice, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, cardamom, salt, a little apple cider vinegar to give it some character and lemon juice to help preserve the color. I add all this to taste.

Understanding the yield of pumpkin to purée is more helpful than an exact recipe: 10 pounds of sugar pie pumpkins (about 3 medium size pumpkins) yields about 2 quarts of roasted pumpkin purée.

To roast pumpkins, simply cut in half and scoop out seeds. Place flesh down on a baking sheet and cook at 400˚F for 30 minutes or until they are very soft. Scoop out flesh and blend up with just enough water to help it along. Cook purée down for at least 20 minutes on low heat stirring constantly until it is very thick and reduced to about 1 1/2 quarts. Add sugar (or agave, honey, maple syrup, or brown sugar) and spices to your liking and intended use.

I made a chinese five-spice pumpkin butter once that received interesting polarized responses on the farm. Now I tend to stick with the spices mentioned above or add herbs from the garden like sage, thyme, or rosemary.